Saigoneer | Stories

Every Morning, I'm Grateful for My Carless Ride to Work on Hoàng Sa Street

khoi@saigoneer.com (Brian Letwin. Photos by Brian Letwin.) — Thu, 28 Mar 2024 08:02:11 GMT

In the decade-plus of Saigoneer’s existence, we’ve had six offices strewn across different parts of Districts 1 and 3. Over that period, my homes have been located in Bình Thạnh and Thảo Điền, requiring significant commuting time.

The Nhiêu Lộc-Thị Nghè Canal's Comeback Story

paul@saigoneer.com (Paul Christiansen. Photos by Alberto Prieto.) — Tue, 19 Mar 2024 04:07:29 GMT

Water has no hometown.

Our Toxic Relationship With Saigon Traffic: A Diagnosis

paul@saigoneer.com (Paul Christiansen. Top photo by Alberto Prieto.) — Tue, 12 Mar 2024 09:22:33 GMT

There is no way to describe Saigon traffic literally and have it understood by someone who has not experienced it.

In the Mekong Delta, Ferries Are Childhood Friends and Daily Companions

paul@saigoneer.com (Morgan Ommer. Photos by Morgan Ommer..) — Mon, 02 Oct 2023 09:20:25 GMT

The Mekong Delta is called Đồng bằng Sông Cửu Long in Vietnamese — the Nine Dragons River, for the way the mighty Mekong splits into multiple strands as it nears its final destination, the East Sea.

'Engaging With Vietnam' Conference Ruminates on Heritage in Huế

paul@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Mon, 03 Jul 2023 03:59:34 GMT

“Living with Heritage, (Re)Creating Heritage: Vietnam and the World” is the title of the 14^th Engaging with Vietnam conference, a series of activities including academic panel discussions, keynote talks, art installations, music and fashion performances, workshops, curated visits to heritage sites and more.

Vietnam Reports First-Ever Test-Taker Attaining 9.0 for All 4 IELTS Skills

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Fri, 09 Jun 2023 04:56:39 GMT

As more institutions and enterprises in Vietnam adopt IELTS results as an official assessment of students' and employees’ grasp of the English language, high IELTS scores have gradually become a sought-after mark of prestige.

Pride Fest, Cambodia's Most Ambitious LGBT Event to Date, Is Coming This Week

paul@saigoneer.com (Joshua Zukas. Photos by Bong Nac Studio via Pride Cambodia.) — Mon, 22 May 2023 05:20:30 GMT

On a steamy evening in downtown Phnom Penh, Rebecca Chan takes the stage. The crowd — mostly Cambodian millennials and Gen Z's — is riled up from previous performances, but Chan’s composure tames their energy. She prowls around the raised platform in knee-high boots. Her skin-thin dress flaunts the contours of her body. She circles calmly and seductively to tantalize the hushed audience below. They track her every move in anticipation of what’s to come.

The Simple Pleasures of Kite-Flying in Thủ Thiêm

paul@saigoneer.com (Paul Christiansen. Photos by Paul Christiansen.) — Mon, 22 May 2023 07:47:58 GMT

One of the most elegant means to observe the textured heft and untethered strength of otherwise-invisible wind — there is plenty one could say about the poetry of flying kites.

Summer 2023 Is the Hottest on Record in Vietnam Due to El Niño

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer. Photo by Alberto Prieto.) — Mon, 08 May 2023 05:28:22 GMT

While the past weeks have felt like living in a sauna for Saigoneers, north-central Vietnam provinces experienced even hotter temperatures this summer.

On Finding Flavors of Home in Takadanobaba, Tokyo's 'Vietnam Town'

khoi@saigoneer.com (Oliver Newman. Photos by Oliver Newman.) — Fri, 14 Apr 2023 09:28:34 GMT

A bánh mì stand to the left, signs for Bích Karaoke above an alley across the street, an open shopfront lined with bottles of Chin-Su chili sauce and G7 coffee sachets, a laid back restaurant where waiters dish out steaming bowls of noodles to customers perched on plastic stools.

Plan to Put Canopy Over Treeless Lê Lợi Pavement Sparks Debate

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer. Photo by Lê Thái Hoàng Nguyên.) — Wed, 29 Mar 2023 13:03:41 GMT

Late last week, the Ho Chi Minh City Department of Planning and Architecture unveiled a proposal to install canopies across Lê Lợi Boulevard’s pavement.

Vignette: For Cafe 81 and the '404 Not Found' Places of Our Lives

paul@saigoneer.com (Paul Christiansen.) — Mon, 06 Mar 2023 04:52:17 GMT

We all have them.

Ở đó ở đây Sài Gòn — A Love-Hate Letter to the Maze of Paradoxes

paul@saigoneer.com (Adrien Jean.) — Tue, 21 Mar 2023 05:34:52 GMT

Editor's note: Adrien Jean is a Saigon-based photographer and a frequent contributor to Saigoneer's Darkroom series. His photos often depict the precise moments in time when the visual elements of our daily life line up just right to evoke a special feeling. In this special photo collection, which contains all of Jean's favorite shots of Saigon, he penned a loving ode, titled 'Love/Hate Letter to Saigon.'

Inside the Sawdust Alley in D8 Where Old Furniture Goes to Get Repurposed

uyendo@urbanistvietnam.com (Uyên Đỗ. Photos by Lê Thái Hoàng Nguyên.) — Tue, 02 Apr 2024 03:34:10 GMT

My lungs began to heave with raspy coughs as I ventured deeper into the alley of 124 Phạm Thế Hiển.

Saigon, Hanoi (Almost) Bottom out World Ranking of Public Bathroom Coverage

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Mon, 06 Feb 2023 07:44:34 GMT

Vietnam’s bountiful abundance of street eats and hip cafes might satisfy even the pickiest visitors looking to ingest delicious things at any price range, but even its biggest metropolises would struggle to provide for the most low-maintenance tourists when it comes to public bathrooms.

A Visual Homage to the Water Buffalo's Practical and Symbolic Importance in Vietnam

paul@saigoneer.com (Adrien Jean. Photos by Adrien Jean.) — Wed, 22 Mar 2023 07:34:36 GMT

The second animal sign in the 12-year cycle of the Vietnamese zodiac, trâu, has symbolic and practical importance in Vietnam.

In 2022, Vietnam's Domestic Tourism Flourished, but International Arrivals Lagged Behind

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer. Photo by Khôi Phạm.) — Mon, 30 Jan 2023 09:14:08 GMT

The most recent Tết holiday witnessed an outstanding performance by Vietnam’s domestic tourism sector, while international tourism had a year of underwhelming figures.

Year in Review: Saigoneer's Picks for Favorite Features of 2022

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Wed, 11 Jan 2023 10:26:06 GMT

In 2021, we decided to expand on the enduring appeal of our food series Hẻm Gems by coming up with new collections of articles zooming in on specific aspects of Vietnamese society and culture. Last year was a time for delving deeper into these series.

Saigon's Metro Line 1 Went on Its First Test Run Last Week

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Mon, 26 Dec 2022 06:26:00 GMT

Last week, the Saigon Metro project took a major step in realizing many Saigoneers’ long-awaited dream of experiencing their own urban railway line.

Đà Nẵng Cafe Sparks Heated Online Debate for Refusing to Serve Children Under 12

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Mon, 19 Dec 2022 08:45:08 GMT

A seemingly innocuous notice by a coffee shop in Đà Nẵng has sparked polarizing responses from netizens across Vietnam.

Votive Dongs Must Be 50% Smaller or Twice Bigger Than Real Dongs, State Bank Says

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer. Photo by Thi Nguyễn.) — Thu, 13 Oct 2022 08:58:09 GMT

To help citizens better distinguish between Vietnam dong bills for the living and the dead, the State Bank of Vietnam has put forth a draft law detailing specifications replicas must follow.

Storm Noru, the Strongest in Recent Years, to Hit Central Vietnam This Week

paul@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Mon, 26 Sep 2022 09:55:02 GMT

Around 370,000 residents are being prepared for evacuation in advance of Storm Noru, which is expected to be one of the worst storms to hit Vietnam in the last 20 years.

Huế Announces Plan to Transform Hồ Thủy Tiên Waterpark Into Public Space

paul@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer. Photos by Alberto Prieto.) — Fri, 23 Sep 2022 07:20:11 GMT

Authorities are planning to turn the long-abandoned Hồ Thủy Tiên Waterpark into a public space with the construction of a walking path, lighting, drainage system and water supply.

A Saigon Restaurant Poisoned Dozens of Stray Cats. What Happened to Those That Survived?

Wed, 21 Sep 2022 06:29:32 GMT

Almost 10 months ago, my life was turned upside down as our household welcomed a new feline member.

Cô Tô Island District Says No to Single-Use Plastics From September

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Tue, 30 Aug 2022 07:28:39 GMT

With insufficient waste management facilities, many island localities in Vietnam face literal barrages of trash.

Bình Dương Gang Drives Car, Steals Mooncakes, Eats Almost Everything Before Arrest

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Tue, 16 Aug 2022 05:40:05 GMT

If you ever feel overwhelmed by mooncake gifts this Trung Thu, remember that there are underprivileged others who might have to resort to driving their car to steal bánh Trung Thu.

Vietnam Will Add Birthplace to New Passport Design After EU Visa Rejections

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Wed, 10 Aug 2022 09:26:41 GMT

A temporary solution has been proposed for holders of Vietnam’s new passports, but it’s unclear at the moment when the state government will come up with a design update to include the missing “Place of Birth” field.

Saigon Extends Notre-Dame Cathedral Renovation by 4 Years to 2027

paul@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Mon, 08 Aug 2022 14:27:29 GMT

Originally scheduled for completion in 2020 and then delayed once to 2023, repairs to the Notre-Dame Cathedral Basilica of Saigon's roof, windows, flooring, exterior and core wooden structure are now expected to be finished in 2027.

While Seeking Lost Pets, Nha Trang Man Rescues 31 Dogs From Slaughterhouse

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Mon, 01 Aug 2022 07:54:52 GMT

A man living in Nha Trang has earned kudos from animal lovers across Vietnam for saving 31 local dogs.

Nearly 50% of Produce Sampled at Saigon Wholesale Markets Contains Pesticide Residues

paul@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer. Photo by Thi Nguyễn.) — Fri, 29 Jul 2022 04:16:14 GMT

Nearly 50% samples of fruits and vegetables gathered from Saigon wholesale markets were found to contain pesticide residues, while significant amounts of seafood tested positive for dangerous metals and banned antibiotics.

Airport Officer Suspended After Passenger Brings Knife on Flight to Prepare Mango Snack

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Fri, 22 Jul 2022 08:00:37 GMT

A passenger's seemingly innocent in-air fruit snack has called into question the effectiveness of Tân Sơn Nhất's security screenings.

Tân Sơn Nhất Airport's New Terminal Will Have Áo Dài-Inspired Design

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Tue, 19 Jul 2022 06:09:08 GMT

After years of existing on paper, Tân Sơn Nhất’s third terminal (T3) has slowly materialized in the form of visual renderings.

Vietnam Consumer Protection Watchdog Asks Grab to Explain New 'Hot Weather' Fee

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer. Photo by Kevin Lee.) — Fri, 15 Jul 2022 06:30:49 GMT

A “hot weather” fee is Grab’s latest surcharge on a shopping list of other additional fees the ride-hailing giant tacks on to each ride.

At Saigon's Oldest Ornamental Fish Market, Fish Are Friends, Not Food

Sat, 01 Oct 2022 12:39:53 GMT

It is a street, not a river, that comes to mind when people talk about vibrant fish in Saigon. Located in District 5, Lưu Xuân Tín Street is only approximately 500 meters long, but it is home to dozens of aquarium businesses.

Saigon Police Want Nhậu Eateries to Report Drunk Customers Who Try to Drive

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer. Photo by Alberto Prieto.) — Mon, 11 Jul 2022 09:19:26 GMT

Now that public gathering is no longer a health hazard, Saigon’s drunk driving epidemic is back in full swing.

Bắc Giang Farmers Successfully Grow Seedless Lychees

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Fri, 08 Jul 2022 05:13:56 GMT

After years of experimenting, Bắc Giang has finally succeeded in growing seedless lychees.

Saigon Zoo Starts Making Chemical-Free Paper From Elephant Poo

paul@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer. Top photo by Alberto Prieto.) — Tue, 05 Jul 2022 09:06:40 GMT

One kilogram of elephant dung yields about 20 sheets of paper for use in Saigon schools.

All Aboard Bus 146, Home of Plushies, Rubber Chickens and a Side of Humanity

uyendo@urbanistvietnam.com (Uyên Đỗ. Photo by Albie Prieto.) — Fri, 24 Jun 2022 08:22:44 GMT

“Cute” doesn’t seem like a fitting descriptor for any mode of public transport, but a bus in Saigon is driving straight into the heart of Saigoneers for being the quintessence of “smotheringly adorable.”

In a D6 Hẻm, Saigon's Last Remaining Broom-Making 'Village'

khoi@saigoneer.com (Tuyết Nhi. Photos by Tuyết Nhi.) — Mon, 13 Jun 2022 08:52:40 GMT

Nestled in a hẻm on Phạm Phú Thứ Street, District 6 is Saigon’s last remaining broom-making village.

Huế Launches Public Bicycle Trial Program With 7 Stations, 250 Bikes

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Wed, 08 Jun 2022 08:04:18 GMT

This Monday, Huế launched the pilot phase of its public bike rental system.

Saigon Restaurant Faces Boycott Over Gruesome Poisoning of Stray Cats

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Mon, 30 May 2022 05:07:25 GMT

Over the past week, animal lovers in Saigon were shocked to learn of a deliberate poisoning aimed at stray cats living in a local apartment complex.

Saigon Plans to Add 10ha of Public Parks by End of 2022

paul@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer. Photo by Alberto Prieto.) — Thu, 26 May 2022 06:35:14 GMT

The additional parks are part of a goal to have 3–4 square meters of green space per Saigon resident by 2030.

Controversy Brews Over 'Minh Mạng' Herbal Tea Brand's Song Joong-Ki Packaging

uyendo@urbanistvietnam.com (Saigoneer.) — Mon, 16 May 2022 04:29:03 GMT

A tea product featuring the face of a South Korean celebrity has turned into a royal pain for its manufacturer.

Đàm Lê Đức, Educator Extraordinaire and Matriarch of 218 Lý Tự Trọng, Passes Away at 91

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer. Graphic by Phan Nhi.) — Fri, 13 May 2022 07:22:13 GMT

If there’s such a thing as a celebrity teacher, Madame Đàm Lê Đức would be a shining example of Saigon’s educator extraordinaire.

Facing Another Removal Plan, Will Chợ Cũ Tôn Thất Đạm Survive 2022?

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer. Top photo by Alberto Prieto.) — Wed, 11 May 2022 10:08:07 GMT

After years of existing on paper, Saigon authorities’ plan to remove chợ cũ might become a reality this year.

Hanoi Woman Survives 7 Days in the Wild After Falling off Cliff During Pagoda Visit

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Wed, 04 May 2022 10:17:13 GMT

Would you be able to survive a week in the wilderness of Vietnam?

Vietnam Removes Health Declaration Requirement for Domestic, International Travelers

paul@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer. Photo by Alberto Prieto.) — Wed, 27 Apr 2022 05:20:19 GMT

Citing Vietnam's continued success in controlling the COVID-19 pandemic, the Ministry of Health announced domestic travelers will no longer need to make health declarations and restrictions will be eased for international arrivals.

A Letter From Saigoneer

khoi@saigoneer.com (Khôi Phạm. Graphic by Hannah Hoàng.) — Wed, 27 Apr 2022 09:38:05 GMT

Saigoneers ơi!

Inside the Backbreaking Work of Quảng Ninh's Coal Miners

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer. Photos by Đồng Hiếu.) — Fri, 15 Apr 2022 04:39:40 GMT

“I am a person with two skin tones.”

Hanoi Envisions 6 More Metro Lines for City Center by 2050

paul@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer. Photo by Linh Phạm) — Fri, 15 Apr 2022 06:53:15 GMT

Earlier this week, Hanoi unveiled a general plan for the underground development of the city center which includes adding six metro lines and 81 underground stations.