Saigoneer | Stories

A Visit to Lê Minh Xuân, a Rare Craft Village Making Incense Sticks Amid Saigon

Wed, 03 Jun 2026 08:44:22 GMT

From inside the workshop, artisans carry bundle after bundle of freshly made incense sticks into the courtyard amid the morning mist. A gentle scent of spices linger in the air.

As Thanh Đa Faces Redevelopment, Writer Dạ Ngân Reflects on What Will Be Lost

khoi@saigoneer.com (Dạ Ngân. Photos by Alberto Prieto.) — Fri, 15 May 2026 04:06:17 GMT

To me, my trip to Cư xá Thanh Đa in summer 1982 was a serendipitous encounter. It was Saigon’s largest-scale residential complex in the first half of the 1970s, with nearly 4,000 separate units housing about 50,000 inhabitants. Cư xá refers to a residential quarter reserved for gainfully employed citizens, with a vision to establish a model community with a high quality of life. Here, in their three-bedroom apartments, civil servants, professors, doctors, and military leaders ranked major or higher lived in pride of being a part of a cư xá like that.

How Saigon's Free Water Coolers Quench Thirst and Spread Kindness

uyendo@urbanistvietnam.com (Uyên Đỗ. Top image by Cao Nhân.) — Fri, 17 Apr 2026 04:10:15 GMT

In recent years, stories about climate change's impacts on the lives of Vietnamese people have been increasingly making the news.

Inside the Covid Memorial Park at 1 Lý Thái Tổ, Saigon's Brand-New Green Space

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer. Photos by Alberto Prieto.) — Wed, 08 Apr 2026 10:43:05 GMT

As part of Saigon’s latest initiative to increase green space coverage in the city, a number of abandoned land plots were converted into public parks, including a Covid Memorial Park that’s become a beloved destination for Saigoneers seeking a space to jog, reflect, or just simply touch grass.

All Aboard Bus 146, Home of Plushies, Rubber Chickens and a Side of Humanity

uyendo@urbanistvietnam.com (Uyên Đỗ. Photo by Alberto Prieto.) — Fri, 03 Apr 2026 05:02:41 GMT

“Cute” doesn’t seem like a fitting descriptor for any mode of public transport, but a bus in Saigon is driving straight into the heart of Saigoneers for being the quintessence of “smotheringly adorable.”

Saigon Set to Make Bus Service Free for All to Cut Congestion, Air Pollution

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer. Photo by Jimmy Art Devier.) — Fri, 03 Apr 2026 06:50:58 GMT

Saigoneers without private vehicles might be happy to hear that the city is planning to make the municipal bus system free to ride in the near future.

Bạc Liêu-94, Cà Mau-69: In Saigon, a Surprising Reminder of Home Lives on License Plates

khoi@saigoneer.com (Đình Phúc. Graphic by Dương Trương.) — Fri, 03 Apr 2026 03:50:07 GMT

Once in a while, I bump into a little sliver of my hometown on a random license plate on the street.

Pristine Blue Sky and Memorial Park: Ruminating on What the Covid-19 Pandemic Left Us

khoi@saigoneer.com (San Kwon. Photos by Alberto Prieto.) — Tue, 24 Mar 2026 07:51:29 GMT

Recently, I visited Saigon’s newly inaugurated COVID-19 memorial park. Located at 1 Lý Thái Tổ, Vườn Lài Ward, the park opened in February as a part of the city’s efforts to expand its green spaces. The centerpiece of the park is its teardrop-shaped sculpture, a monument commemorating the solidarity and care that carried the city through the hardships of the pandemic.

HCMC's Đồng Khởi Among World's Top 20 Most Expensive Retail Streets, Report Says

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Wed, 18 Mar 2026 14:42:14 GMT

Saigon’s very own Đồng Khởi has once again made the list of world’s commercial streets with the highest annual rents.

Loneliness Too Waits for the Bus

paul@saigoneer.com (Paul Christiansen. Photos by Jimmy Art Devier.) — Tue, 27 Jan 2026 15:12:36 GMT

We are all in this, but not together.

Thoughts I've Had While Stranded in Murky Floodwater on Saigon's High-Tide Days

khoi@saigoneer.com (Đình Phúc. Illustrations by Mai Khanh.) — Thu, 15 Jan 2026 13:41:05 GMT

I’m willing to forgive nearly everything about Saigon. It’s a sign of a sustainable relationship, as I still wish to coexist in peace with this city. To me, Saigon’s midday, even when the searing sun flares the strongest, is when the trees are the most glorious. The sudden bouts of torrential rain are indeed a nuisance, but I tell myself that at least the streets can get a wash after a dusty day. But there’s one thing that never goes away and that I can never write off; something I can’t, for the life of me, find reasons to romanticize or defend. Those are the infuriating floods that submerge Saigon streets every time the tide is high.

Saigon Sees a 10-Year Low of 18°C. What Are the City’s Highest and Lowest Temperatures?

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Fri, 09 Jan 2026 08:38:46 GMT

This January, Saigoneers have been enjoying an unusually pleasant stretch of weather, with daytime temperatures hovering around the mid-20s and dipping to 18–20°C late at night and in the early morning.

Vietnam Bans Unskippable Ads, Requires Skip Button to Appear After 5 Seconds

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer. Photo by Jimmy Art Devier.) — Sat, 10 Jan 2026 09:01:57 GMT

If things go our way, YouTube’s notorious unskippable ads might be a thing of the past come this February.

Grindr Year-End Report Names Vietnam as Country With Biggest Top Shortage

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Tue, 23 Dec 2025 06:40:20 GMT

Ever since Spotify launched its first global Wrapped function a few years ago, December has turned into an exciting season of stats-driven year-end reviews. “Wrapping” is now a tradition embraced by numerous apps, such as Strava, Duolingo, YouTube, Reddit, and of course, Grindr.

When Donations Are All Womenswear, Men in Flood Zones Turn Necessity Into Fashion

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Fri, 28 Nov 2025 04:55:05 GMT

Vietnam’s South-Central Coast region is going through an especially grueling time of the year as both the local people and authorities have to deal with the aftermath of historic rainfall and flooding. Still, amid the mourning and strenuous rebuilding efforts, moments of levity shine through — a testament to the resilience, optimism, and incredible humor of the Vietnamese people in the face of hardships.

Đắk Lắk, Khánh Hòa Are Next Victims of 2025's Historic Flooding. Here's How to Help.

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Tue, 25 Nov 2025 08:04:04 GMT

After nearly a week of constant downpour, many provinces of Vietnam’s Central Highlands and South-Central Coast regions have suffered severe flooding and landslides, causing catastrophic damage to local infrastructure, economic activities, and deaths. This has been yet another month of loss and destruction for Vietnam in 2025, which is shaping up to be the most devastating year in recent history due to consecutive powerful typhoons and atypically high rainfall.

After Years in Limbo, Saigon's Metro Line 2 Is Officially Breaking Ground in Jan 2026

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Thu, 13 Nov 2025 05:59:42 GMT

After years under development limbo, Saigon’s Metro Line 2 has finally gotten an official date for breaking ground, but will this timeline stick?

Outlaw Ostrich Arrested in Bình Dương for Disrupting Public Order

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Fri, 07 Nov 2025 10:15:13 GMT

In case you need a pick-me-up on this dreary rainy Friday, here’s a dose of “độc lạ Bình Dương” quackery.

ASEAN Welcomes East Timor, Asia's Youngest Nation, as 11th Member

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Tue, 04 Nov 2025 13:34:52 GMT

Time for infographic artists and geography teachers in the region to update their work on ASEAN.

Into the Infernal Heat of One of Saigon's Last Remaining Forges

uyendo@urbanistvietnam.com (Như Quỳnh. Photos by Alberto Prieto.) — Mon, 03 Nov 2025 04:03:26 GMT

It's no exaggeration to say that working in a forge is akin to being in a fiery sauna.

The Origin of the Strange Lights You See Before Landing in Saigon

paul@saigoneer.com (Paul Christiansen.) — Tue, 14 Oct 2025 06:23:13 GMT

What are those astonishingly bright lights seen from an airplane window when approaching Saigon at night? I’ve had visitors ask me this on the drive home from the airport, and the question appears on Reddit every few months. I remember being befuddled myself the first time I witnessed the patchwork radiance.

My Mom’s Care Packages Remind Me That Home Can Fit Inside a Box of Food

khoi@saigoneer.com (Hạ Vy. Illustrations by Dương Trương.) — Fri, 10 Oct 2025 08:03:55 GMT

“What do you guys crave? I’ll send some.”

New 12,000-Year-Old Skeleton Breaks Record of Oldest Human Remains Found in Vietnam

Wed, 03 Sep 2025 07:41:24 GMT

After analysis, scientists believe that a 12,000-year-old set of human remains found in Ninh Bình belonged to a prehistoric man who died from infection after being struck by a quartz-tipped projectile.

As Saigon Moves Forward, Xích Lô Lag Behind as Nostalgic Remnants of a Past Era

Tue, 19 Aug 2025 03:35:51 GMT

Among Bùi Viện's assortment of xe ôm drivers and street food vendors, Bible-toting religious enthusiasts and other colorful personalities, 66-year-old Nghĩa stands out for his kind eyes and walrus-like mustache.

Wipha, Yagi and Luc-Binh: How Are Tropical Storms Named in the Pacific Region?

khoi@saigoneer.com (Khôi Phạm.) — Mon, 28 Jul 2025 09:40:21 GMT

Wipha was the latest typhoon to batter Vietnam this year, sweeping through northern provinces like Hưng Yên, Ninh Bình, Nghệ An, and Thanh Hóa and causing dangerous floods. It was 2025’s third and probably will not be the last that Vietnam will have to endure this year.

The Simple Pleasures of Having Your Hair Washed at the Hairdresser’s

paul@saigoneer.com (Paul Christiansen. Photos by Jimmy Art Devier.) — Sun, 08 Jun 2025 06:39:21 GMT

I get my face shaved by sidewalk barbers; stop at every roving laminator I pass to have ticket stubs, photos, and doodles encased in plastic as souvenirs; and will always select a stool surrounded by traffic over a fine dining establishment. Add in the fact that I’ve kept my hair well past my shoulders for decades, and it should be a no-brainer that I regularly frequent tiệm gội đầu. And yet, somehow, last week was my first visit.

Letter to the People I Met as We Hid From the Rain Under a Bridge Together

khoi@saigoneer.com (Khôi Phạm. Photos by Alberto Prieto and Pete Walls.) — Thu, 22 May 2025 04:51:09 GMT

“Do not be angry with the rain; it simply does not know how to fall upwards.”
— Vladimir Nabokov.

Final Merging Plan Brings Vietnam's Locality Number From 63 to 34

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Mon, 14 Apr 2025 08:38:26 GMT

After extended working sessions to gather insights from experts and locals, Vietnam’s state government has announced the final version of the country’s administrative map.

Múa Lân Is Officially Recognized as a National Intangible Cultural Heritage

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer. Photo by Uyên Đỗ.) — Mon, 31 Mar 2025 07:56:16 GMT

In Chợ Lớn, every Tết, amid the aroma of burning joss sticks and an onslaught of red-color decorations is the echoing beats of lion dance instruments. For generations of Saigoneer, the presence of múa lân, or lion dance, is a sign of festivity and celebration.

What a Mango Flower Looks Like: On the Unexpected Beauty of Fruit Flowers

paul@saigoneer.com (Paul Christiansen. Top photo by Alberto Prieto.) — Thu, 20 Mar 2025 06:28:10 GMT

What does a mango flower look like?

At Saigon's Oldest Ornamental Fish Market, Fish Are Friends, Not Food

Sun, 16 Mar 2025 05:21:04 GMT

It is a street, not a river, that comes to mind when people talk about vibrant fish in Saigon. Located in District 5, Lưu Xuân Tín Street is only approximately 500 meters long, but it is home to dozens of aquarium businesses.

How to Curate the Best Playlist to Listen to While Riding the Saigon Metro

paul@saigoneer.com (Paul Christiansen. Photos by Khôi Phạm.) — Mon, 13 Jan 2025 09:19:26 GMT

When you get a new toy, it's only reasonable to take it out to play with as often as possible.

Đi Bão Is Vietnamese Culture at Its Most Jubilant, Raucous, and Fervent

paul@saigoneer.com (Paul Christiansen.) — Mon, 06 Jan 2025 07:08:53 GMT

Dustbins, tree branches, advertising stands and tarps, leftover Christmas decorations, whatever pot, pan, ladle or utensil left unattended in the family kitchen, and at least one street vendor’s bánh khọt mold: whatever wasn’t bolted down got caught up in the wave of đi bão that filled Saigon’s streets last night.

Life in Saigon's Old Tenements, the Remaining Vertical Villages of Past Decades

khoi@saigoneer.com (Christian Berg. Photos by Christian Berg.) — Thu, 02 Jan 2025 07:19:56 GMT

Is “out with the old, in with the new” the new motto when it comes to Saigon's real estate scene?

A Merry Memory of a Mid-2000s Middle-Class Christmas in Saigon

uyendo@urbanistvietnam.com (Uyên Đỗ.) — Thu, 26 Dec 2024 10:29:51 GMT

As my palm felt the glossy wrapping paper for my Secret Santa gift, I was transported to my early childhood Christmases — filled with warmth, wonder, and the bubbling discomfort of class insecurities.

Watching Snowfall in 'Home Alone' Is My Saigon Christmas Tradition

khoi@saigoneer.com (Khang Nguyễn. Graphic by Dương Trương.) — Thu, 26 Dec 2024 04:50:41 GMT

Christmas is so globally celebrated that even in Saigon, as the coldest time of the year approaches, you can hear Christmas hymms echoing from homes in the alley, and spot houses adorned with Christmas trees, Santas, snowmen, regardless of their cultural relevance to Vietnamese culture. For me, one of the activities that truly embodies this global spirit of Christmas is watching Home Alone (1990).

‘Công tử Bạc Liêu’ Asks: ‘What Would You Do if You Won the Lottery?’

paul@saigoneer.com (Paul Christiansen.) — Thu, 19 Dec 2024 03:39:10 GMT

They say you don’t buy a lottery ticket because you think you’ll win; you buy one so that you can fantasize about winning.

For Hội An Residents, Learning to Live With Floods Is a Fact of Life

matatarski@gmail.com (Alden Anderson. Photos by Alden Anderson.) — Tue, 03 Dec 2024 05:04:38 GMT

The water reached my shoulders, and when I stepped into the street I suddenly felt the current trying to pull me into its invisible grasp. A familiar feeling that set off an alarm inside my head: “Be careful! It looks like nothing, but don’t get caught in it.”

The Calming Quietude of an Early Morning Stroll Through D1

dana@saigoneer.com (Andy Ip Thiên. Photos by Andy Ip Thiên.) — Fri, 29 Nov 2024 04:14:34 GMT

As a city that is perpetually either sweltering hot or halfway under water, Saigon weather rarely includes cool breezes or overcast mornings. And yet, over the past few weeks, the city has experienced a handful of chilly mornings and soft sunlight, a welcome change from the usual heat and humidity that often appears at sunrise and lasts throughout the day.

Cold War History With a Side of Nem Rán in Prague's Little Hanoi

khoi@saigoneer.com (Khôi Phạm. Photos by Alberto Prieto.) — Wed, 11 Dec 2024 06:59:37 GMT

Across English-speaking countries such as the US and Australia, the Vietnamese diaspora established close-knit “Little Saigon” towns whenever they settled down, founding large markets, starting financial services, and introducing southern fares like gỏi cuốn and bánh mì to the local population. Elsewhere in Europe, however, the Vietnamese community is often known as “Little Hanoi,” due to the regional makeup of the first wave of immigrants. Some, like Prague’s Little Hanoi, have flourished to the point of being a “city within a city,” boasting its own self-sufficient administrative services, schools, and housing.

Saigon's Next Top 5 Congested Streets Are Announced. Here Are the Winners.

paul@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer. Photo by Kevin Lee.) — Thu, 31 Oct 2024 08:10:22 GMT

Local streets are buckling under the pressure of Saigon's ever-increasing population density, here are the city's most frequently jammed roads, according to the municipal Department of Transportation.

How to Spot a Traveling Vietnamese at the Airport? Boxes With Sharpied Names.

paul@saigoneer.com (Paul Christiansen. Photos by Paul Christiansen.) — Wed, 16 Oct 2024 09:13:27 GMT

“If you know, you know.”

Into Saigon's Charming Hidden Third Spaces in the Shade of Bridges

uyendo@urbanistvietnam.com (Uyên Đỗ. Photos by Nikolai Sokolov.) — Fri, 08 Nov 2024 07:53:48 GMT

Third place (noun): A space outside of one's home and workplace, where people meet and interact socially.

Century-Old Historic Villa in Đồng Nai Faces Demolition Due to Road Project

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Wed, 25 Sep 2024 08:35:26 GMT

It’s yet another case of new infrastructure versus old heritage building — one of Vietnam’s most common urban planning clashes in recent years.

Food, Art, Heritage and Everything of the Essence in My #SaigonSummer

paul@saigoneer.com (Phạm Thục Khuê. Top graphic by Trường Dĩ.) — Fri, 06 Sep 2024 08:51:18 GMT

“In summer, the song sings itself.”
― William Carlos Williams

With Thriving Coffee Culture, Vietnam Has Half a Million Cafes, Data Shows

paul@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer. Top photo by Alberto Prieto.) — Sun, 25 Aug 2024 02:13:19 GMT

Taking into account global and national chains, small brands, independent cafes and street vendors, a recent report estimates that Vietnam is home to more than 500,000 coffee shops that generate US$1.46 billion in revenue in total.

Vietnamese Staff Member Wins 7-Eleven Japan's Annual Customer Care Contest

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Mon, 12 Aug 2024 09:53:09 GMT

A Vietnamese national recently surpassed over 2,000 other contenders to claim the top spot in a customer service contest in Japan.

Huế Becomes 1st City With Dedicated Lanes on Pavements for Bicycles

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Mon, 22 Jul 2024 07:59:16 GMT

The growing popularity of biking as a recreational activity in Vietnam has been acknowledged officially by urban planners in Huế.

From 'Freeze' to 'Avcngcrs': Inside the Wacky World of Vietnam's Bootleg Toys

khoi@saigoneer.com (Khang Nguyễn. Photos by Cao Nhân.) — Mon, 01 Jul 2024 08:41:53 GMT

In Vietnam, you can find a Lego set in official Lego stores or any big toy shops at high prices; but if you take a different route, you can find Lego sets being sold by small vendors for much cheaper. But those sets are a little bit different; they are branded as “Lele'' or “Lepin,” or just white Chinese characters on a red square. For decades, these bootleg toys have been a widely popular option for Vietnamese kids.

New Renderings Show Saigon's Plans to Revamp Quách Thị Trang Square

paul@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Fri, 21 Jun 2024 08:34:13 GMT

At an estimated cost of VND157 billion (US$6.17 million), the controversial renovation work on the square in front of Bến Thành Market is set to begin this fall and be completed by April 2025.