Saigoneer | Heritage

Tàu Cánh Ngầm: The Curious Case of Saigon’s Lost Soviet Hydrofoils

brian.letwin@gmail.com (Brian Letwin. Top image by Dennis Jarvis.) — Thu, 07 Aug 2025 11:45:05 GMT

Not long ago, hulking “creatures” glided atop the waters between Saigon and Vũng Tàu. Like the dinosaurs that came before them, they slowly disappeared, until all that was left were their skeletons.

How the Storied Caravelle Balances History and Modernity

paul@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Thu, 28 Nov 2019 05:31:24 GMT

Expensive imported cars idle in front of Saigon’s century-old Opera House, where inside a local orchestra is performing a medley of wartime songs, 19th century European standards and modern American folk music. This scene’s confluence of contemporary and historic elements epitomizes Vietnam in 2019. Across the street sits the Caravelle Saigon, one of the city’s oldest and most iconic hotels. As it celebrates its 60th birthday, it looks to retain elements of its storied past while implementing modern food, dining and hospitality services and room designs.

The Caravelle in 1961

When the Caravelle was built, it was one of the very few high-end international hotels in Vietnam and, according to Michael Robinson, the current general manager, didn’t have much world-standard competition. As Vietnam’s economy boomed in recent years, global brands rushed in, while mid-range options also established themselves. As an independently-owned property, the Caravelle has the advantage of flexibility when determining how to respond to emerging trends in room designs, restaurants and lounges while honoring their six-decade legacy.

Today, tourists are experiencing Saigon in new ways. Thanks in part to the internet's wealth of information and the ease in which people can navigate the city with smartphones, they increasingly look to eat and drink away from where they are staying. At the same time, rising incomes have allowed locals to spend more money on dining out. Therefore, the Caravelle’s F&B outlets look to attract residents and outside tourists.

Some guests that visit the rooftop Saigon Saigon Bar and lobby-level Cafe de l’Opera lounge do so to revisit the days when it was the site of impassioned conversations between American journalists like Peter Arnett and David Halberstam. Other visitors simply want a delicious drink in a relaxed setting with great views. Simultaneously catering to both is the task of Director of F&B Eliot Gould.

Gould explains to Saigoneer that history sets the venues apart from their Saigon peers, but they can’t rely on that aspect alone. Therefore, Saigon Saigon underwent a recent remodeling that left the aesthetics largely unchanged, with colonial shutters and wooden fans continuing to transport guests back in time, while structural alterations made work more efficient for staff. At the same time, the menu was tweaked to keep pace with Saigon’s innovative drinking scene.

In Cafe de l’Opera, trendy new beverages are consistently introduced, such as the recent addition of a super latte, which includes beetroot matcha and turmeric. A new cocktail menu has something for everyone, including six classic French cocktails which will be given names that connect to important locations or events in Vietnam’s history.

To appeal to loyal customers who have visited for years, as well as newer generations, the restaurants offer European and Asian dishes that rely on an ever-expanding selection of fresh local and imported ingredients. To ensure quality, the chefs inspect each shipment when they arrive. The seafood buffet, in particular, caters to Vietnamese diners who have enjoyed relaxing weekend brunches since back when the Caravelle was one of the few locations in the entire city to offer the decadent meal.

Over the years, the hotel has opened several new venues that capture contemporary flavors. The tapas restaurant, for example, serves small dishes the likes of which would have been unheard of in Saigon decades ago. The Reflections restaurant, which will undergo an overhaul next year, seeks to strike an equilibrium between familiar food and novelty thanks to their quarterly seasonal menus that source new items from around the world.

The events and promotions offered at the Caravelle also reflect their aims of attracting a wide audience. In addition to the seasonal menus, the dining venues feature special tasting dinners and unique collaborations, such as an art auction with renowned local illustrator Richie Fawcett. Long-running events like the annual Christmas party have been more recently joined by live Swinger Club band performances on Wednesdays, as well as six-night-a-week live music played by a Living Cuba.

Many members of the Caravelle’s staff have worked at the hotel for years, and greet familiar guests as returning family. Newer team members bring fresh ideas and open-minded approaches informed by, and representative of, Vietnamese people’s expanded access to overseas education. This combination establishes a high service standard on par with hotels throughout the world.

While service is essential, room, restaurant and lobby design must meet the expectations of an increasingly discerning audience with refined tastes. The hotel is currently undergoing complete redesigns, with every room in the Opera Wing tower already completed, and the rest scheduled for completion early next year. Balance serves as the key description for the process. The team didn’t want to introduce a flashy new style that would quickly become outdated or turn off guests with traditional preferences. At the same time, there was much that could be updated.

The room transformations made each generally brighter, with large windows casting warm sunshine on the lighter-toned furniture and linens. The bathrooms were made larger and more luxurious as well. Moreover, to effectively meet the needs of the modern traveler, The Caravelle added a great number of power outlets and USB power outlets in each room and outfitted the entire building with updated fiber optics and Bluetooth technology.

In many ways, Vietnam stands at a nexus and it is unclear which unique elements of its culture will persist relatively unchanged, and what will adapt amidst increased economic and societal globalization. The Caravelle finds itself in a similar position at its 60th anniversary. The general aesthetics and service that made it such an important part of the city remain, while various design and food and beverage offerings have evolved with their guests. In this way, the hotel serves as a model, and potential prognosticator, for what future years have in store for the city.

Caravelle Hotel's Website

Caravelle Hotel's Facebook Page

(84) 28 3823 4999

19 -23 Lam Son Square, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City

JavaScript must be enabled in order for you to use Google Maps.
However, it seems JavaScript is either disabled or not supported by your browser.
To view Google Maps, enable JavaScript by changing your browser options, and then try again.

[Photos] Hanoi That Once Was Through the Eyes of Le Vuong

chris@saigoneer.com (Chris Humphrey) — Sun, 20 Oct 2019 08:24:56 GMT

When he was 18 years old, Le Vuong bought his first camera.

The year was 1936 and one could easily purchase land in Hanoi for the same price as the camera. But Vuong wasn’t interested in real estate; he was, and still is, in love with art.

In an interview with Nguoi Ha Noi, Vuong shared that growing up he was very close to his uncle, renowned painter Le Pho. Vuong used to hang out in his uncle’s room to watch him paint and note his masterful composition skills. Like his uncle, Vuong also want to create art, but instead of ink and silk, his medium was film and light.

With his newly purchased camera, Vuong spent the rest of the 1930s walking the streets of Hanoi and capturing its idyllic beauty. Back then, there were more kids than tourists around Hoan Kiem Lake, the air was foggy instead of smoggy, and the term tắc đường (traffic jam) was yet enter most people’s phraseology.

Vuong went on to become an award winning professional photographer. In 2016, he received the Bui Xuan Phai - Love for Hanoi Award. Now at 101 years old, he has produced a massive collection of photographs depicting the landscape, people, and culture of Vietnam and other countries. Vuong told Nguoi Ha Noi he is like a worker bee, diligently in search of the nectar that is the beauty of life.

The series of photos below, collated by Redsvn, reveal how Vuong saw Hanoi in the 1930s. Take a look below to see a time that once was.

[Photos] A Walk Down Dong Khanh Boulevard in Old Saigon's Cho Lon

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Tue, 07 Nov 2017 09:40:22 GMT

Ask anyone who has ever set foot in Saigon and they have undoubtedly heard of Cho Lon. Spanning the western half of District 5 and a few neighborhoods in Districts 6 and 11, the quarter has been one of the most significant hubs of trading and heritage in the city for more than two centuries.

[Photos] Life in 1973 Saigon - Part 3

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Tue, 31 Oct 2017 06:32:36 GMT

On his trip to Saigon in 1973, famed American photographer Nick DeWolf spent a lot of time strolling local streets to capture on film numerous slices of life in the southern city just before the major events of 1975.

[Photos] The Quietude of Saigon in 1965

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Tue, 10 Oct 2017 04:53:44 GMT

Thanks to decades of steady economic growth, Saigon is getting more and more crowded as people from all over the country and even overseas decide to settle down in the southern hub.

[Photos] A Walk Through Downtown District 1 in 1967-68

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Mon, 18 Sep 2017 13:10:18 GMT

Saigon’s current growing pains are obvious: streets are fenced off for metro construction, trees are torn down to make way for overpasses and old apartments are obliterated one by one.

[Photos] Saigon’s Colonial-Era Shipping Line Brought the World to Vietnam

jkhobson@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Fri, 11 Aug 2017 05:26:13 GMT

During the French colonial era, the Messageries Maritimes shipping line, established in 1851, permitted thousands of men and women to traverse the seas in order to visit French colonies. It had an especially strong presence in Saigon.

[Photos] Gia Long High School and 100 Years of Female Education

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Wed, 06 Nov 2019 09:35:45 GMT

Before becoming the prestigious Nguyen Thi Minh Khai High School of today, this District 1 institution used to be home to Gia Long, once Saigon’s most well-known school for girls.

[Photos] Take a Stroll Down the Streets of Saigon in 1970

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Mon, 17 Jul 2017 05:15:00 GMT

The streets of today's Saigon were considerably different from what they were in 1970: fewer cars and motorbikes, and more live pythons.

[Photos] The Vibrant Past of Saigon's Quach Thi Trang Roundabout in the 1960s

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Mon, 26 Jun 2017 08:22:39 GMT

From the city’s early days until recently, Saigon’s Quach Thi Trang roundabout has always been a muse for traveling photographers.

[Photos] Before the Bitexco Financial Tower, There Was The Old Market

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Tue, 06 Jun 2017 04:57:33 GMT

Most Saigoneers today know chợ cũ – the city’s beloved Old Market – as a bustling commercial area spanning a block’s worth of Ton That Dam Street. However, not many are aware that the trading hub used to be located on Nguyen Hue Boulevard, as shown in this collection of old Saigon photographs.

[Photos] A Trip From Downtown to Rural Saigon in 1970

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Thu, 01 Jun 2017 06:06:41 GMT

Have you ever wondered why, while there are plenty of photos of downtown Saigon in the past, one almost never come across snapshots of Go Vap, Thu Duc or even sections of District 5 other than Cho Lon?

After Failed Demolition Attempt, This 100-Year-Old Saigon Villa Is in Disrepair

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Wed, 31 May 2017 04:24:22 GMT

Remember this beautiful century-old villa? It’s now largely a pile of rubble.

[Photos] 24 Photos of 1968-70 Saigon

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Sun, 28 May 2017 10:50:09 GMT

How many iconic landmarks can you spot?

[Photos] 25 Rare Photos of Cho Lon in 1925

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Tue, 16 May 2017 07:18:51 GMT

It’s fascinating to see how the Cho Lon area has been developing over the years from a mere trading hub in 1925 to an important center of Chinese heritage in today’s Saigon.

[Photos] A Black-and-White Look at Hoi An from 1930 -1950

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Thu, 11 May 2017 08:02:06 GMT

It appears that flooding in Hoi An is a common phenomenon that dates back to at least the 1930s.

[Photos] 1969 Saigon: Snazzy Hairdos, Ao Dais and Vintage Cars Galore

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Mon, 08 May 2017 06:37:23 GMT

In this collection of old photos, a brisk walk down Dong Khoi Street – known as Tu Do Street in 1969 – meant clean, empty sidewalks and stylish shopfronts, instead of a tourist circus like it is today.

[Photos] Tan Xa Palace: The Oldest Building in Saigon

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Fri, 05 May 2017 05:26:01 GMT

The oldest building in Saigon is now over two centuries old.

[Photos] The Beauty of Vietnam's Landscapes in the Late 1940s

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Wed, 03 May 2017 09:30:00 GMT

Through the eras, Vietnam has seen many drastic changes. Therefore, it’s always fascinating to come across photo archives from decades ago, when the majority of the country’s provinces were still largely undeveloped.

[Photos] Life in 1973 Saigon - Part 2

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Mon, 17 Apr 2017 04:38:53 GMT

Life in Saigon in the early 1970s wasn’t easy, but that didn’t stop the city’s residents from adopting a positive outlook and happy-go-lucky approach to living.

[Photos] Life in 1973 Saigon - Part 1

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Mon, 10 Apr 2017 05:00:00 GMT

You will never be as cool as the ladies of Saigon in 1973.

[Photos] 1972 Saigon, a City of Style

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Sun, 05 Apr 2020 05:31:05 GMT

Based on this collection of black-and-white snapshots, there’s no doubt that Saigon was – and still is – a city of style.

Nick Ut, Pulitzer Prize-Winning Photojournalist, Retires This Month

dana@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Wed, 22 Mar 2017 10:36:03 GMT

After 51 years as a photojournalist, Nick Ut is retiring this month.

[Photos] A 1973 Trip to the Market

dana@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Wed, 08 Mar 2017 04:54:42 GMT

There are few experiences quite like wandering through a Saigon market.

[Photos] Stroll Through 1966 Downtown Saigon

dana@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Sat, 04 Mar 2017 05:00:00 GMT

Saigon has come a long way in the last half-century. And yet, even as the city is transformed by major infrastructure projects and commercial developments, there are a few things that remain the same, even 51 years later.

The End of Ton That Dam's Chợ Cũ

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Wed, 22 Feb 2017 05:12:20 GMT

As Saigon quickly transforms into a modern metropolis, some of the city’s beloved old relics are fading away with the pressures of development.

The Ongoing Evolution of Quach Thi Trang Square

dana@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer. Top photo by Michael Tatarski.) — Mon, 20 Feb 2017 06:26:48 GMT

Over the weekend, Saigon’s iconic Quach Thi Trang Square disappeared behind a wall of blue fencing in preparation for further metro construction.

[Video] A Tour of Saigon in the 1900s

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Sun, 19 Feb 2017 04:11:40 GMT

Saigon has always been a source of inspiration for shutterbugs and artists to craft some of their most captivating work. However, while it’s easy to come across photographs of the city's past, video clips of old Saigon are few and far between.

[Photos] 1960s Saigon: Fruit Vendors, Honda Cubs and Bò Bía Galore

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Tue, 14 Feb 2017 09:51:44 GMT

It's as true today as it was in the 1960s: to experience Saigon life, head to the streets.

[Photos] Saigon Xua: A Touch of Hat Tuong in the Land of Cinemas

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Mon, 06 Feb 2017 04:48:10 GMT

There’s no doubt that Vietnamese in the past were avid patrons of the arts.

[Photos] Saigon's Charm Through the Lens of an American Air Force Officer

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Wed, 11 Jan 2017 07:25:26 GMT

Saigon has always been a muse for artists, musicians, poets and writers, inspiring some of their greatest works of art. However, the southern metropolis seems to be especially lively when seen through the lenses of photographers, who find the city’s bustling streets and vivifying colors very charming.

[Photos] Saigon's 1955 Cityscapes From Above

dana@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Mon, 12 Dec 2016 04:49:22 GMT

Even without photographic evidence, it’s a safe bet that 1955 Saigon was a world apart from the frantic energy of today’s mammoth metropolis.

The Legacy of Hui Bon Hoa

dana@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer. Photo by Alexander McMillan.) — Wed, 30 Nov 2016 10:37:44 GMT

It’s fairly common knowledge that the city’s Fine Arts Museum was once home to old Saigon’s wealthiest family, however few people know that much of the sprawling Hui Bon Hoa complex was not actually built until after the great patriarch’s death.

In 1910, Indochina’s First Flight Departed From Saigon

dana@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Mon, 28 Nov 2016 07:29:08 GMT

Over a century ago, on December 10, 1910, the first-ever flight in Indochina took off from Saigon’s Champs de Courses, the site of which now serves as the Ho Chi Minh City headquarters of the People's Army of Vietnam, near the corner of District 10’s 3 Thang 2 and Cach Mang Thang 8 Streets.

[Video] Saigon's Oldest Known Footage Captures Snippets of Life in 1899-1900

dana@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Mon, 21 Nov 2016 05:23:35 GMT

On December 28, 1895, Auguste and Louis Lumiere debuted the world’s very first motion picture at a cafe in Paris.

[Photos] Vintage Postcards Capture the Grand Landmarks of Old Saigon

dana@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Mon, 14 Nov 2016 04:24:26 GMT

Today, Saigon’s landmarks are the subject of many an Instagram snapshot – everyone, it seems, has photographed the Notre Dame Cathedral at least once – but in the days before smartphones, Saigon’s grander buildings were featured heavily on the correspondence sent back to Europe by Vietnam’s French colonists.

[Video] Roam the Streets of 1984 Saigon

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Thu, 10 Nov 2016 05:00:00 GMT

Life in 1984 Saigon was harder than it is now, but the lifestyle of the southern hub's residents remains largely unchanged, from our undying love of street food to the eclectic mix of personalities that roam its streets.

[Photos] Mac Thi Buoi's Black-and-White Past

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Mon, 07 Nov 2016 04:19:15 GMT

Through the ages, District 1’s Mac Thi Buoi Street has gone by many different names. However, if this collection of photos is any indication, one thing about the street hasn’t changed: the bustling lane has always been a popular place for the cool kids to hang out, from the 60s until now.

Lost and Found: A Trip to Saigon’s Antique Market

dana@saigoneer.com (Dana Filek-Gibson. Photos by Brandon Coleman.) — Sat, 05 Nov 2016 05:36:41 GMT

The second he sees me, rolling down the crumbling concrete path on a dented bicycle, Chien perks up and heads in my direction.

[Photos] The Black-and-White Magic of Saigon in the Early 60s

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Mon, 24 Oct 2016 04:36:26 GMT

Saigon is developing at such a dizzying rate that it’s hard to picture a time when the southern hub’s streets weren’t jam-packed with vehicles. Therefore, what this collection of black-and-white photos offers is a rare glimpse into the city's old days when personal space still existed.

[Map] The Stories Behind Saigon’s French Colonial Street Names

dana@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer. Illustration by Henry Chi-Hieu Nguyen.) — Wed, 05 Oct 2016 13:55:59 GMT

In its relatively young history, Saigon has undergone several makeovers: from quaint colonial town to grand capital of Cochinchina, major metropolis of southern Vietnam and now the buzzing economic hub it is today.

[Photos] Saigon Then & Now: The Diem Coup (1963)

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer. Photos by Brandon Coleman.) — Thu, 19 Jul 2018 09:59:39 GMT

In September 1963, reporters and journalists began to hear rumblings about a coup that would ultimately topple the increasingly unpopular Ngo Dinh Diem regime.

[Photos] Take a Tour of 1990 Saigon

khoi@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Wed, 24 Aug 2016 03:45:29 GMT

Coming across photo collections of old Saigon is always fascinating. The city seems to take on a new life in each era, but still somehow manages to retain its distinctive core characteristics: a vibrant urban culture and bustling pace of living.

[Photos] The Transformation of Le Lai Street, 1950-1975

dana@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Mon, 01 Aug 2016 04:43:48 GMT

The best way to measure Saigon’s 20^th-century evolution is by honing in on the changes of a single street.

[Photos] Life on the River in Early 1900s Saigon

dana@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Mon, 25 Jul 2016 04:26:20 GMT

For centuries, life in southern Vietnam has revolved around water.

[Photos] Then & Now: Images From Old and New Saigon

dana@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer. Photos by Brandon Coleman.) — Thu, 19 Jul 2018 09:59:55 GMT

The southern hub has seen its fair share of transformations over the years. From French colonialism to the swinging 60s, the early days of Doi Moi to 21^st-century Vietnam, Saigon’s urban landscape has undergone constant change, and yet the photos below are proof positive that modern-day Saigon is not so far removed from its past.

[Photos] Saigon Loses Another Centenarian Villa

dana@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Tue, 28 Jun 2016 04:30:03 GMT

Yesterday morning, another turn-of-the-century colonial villa met its demise.

[Photos] Wander the Streets of 1989 Saigon

dana@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Wed, 22 Jun 2016 05:00:00 GMT

For those Saigoneers born in the era of Vin-products and high-rises, the old Saigon is an enigma. It seems like everyday we uncover a new album of old photos documenting Saigon xưa, fished out from someone’s archive of memorabilia.

Street Cred: Hung Vuong

dana@saigoneer.com (Saigoneer.) — Sun, 19 Jun 2016 07:00:00 GMT

In the very beginning of Vietnamese history, dragon king Lac Long Quan and fairy Au Co got together and gave birth to 100 children. Their cohort became the first citizens of northern Vietnam, the eldest of whom founded the legendary Hong Bang dynasty in around 2879 BC.