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in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Amid Saigon's Heat, a Wintry Ambiance in Xocoati's Cozy Cocoa Drinks

Amidst Saigon’s year-round scorching heat, I crave coziness — a feeling that often comes with snuggling under heavy blankets in my Hanoian winter. I was searching for some comfort and “winter vibe” sp...

in Vietnam

With Thriving Coffee Culture, Vietnam Has Half a Million Cafes, Data Shows

Taking into account global and national chains, small brands, independent cafes and street vendors, a recent report estimates that Vietnam is home to more than 500,000 coffee shops that generate US$1....

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Mơ Đi Hội, When Florists Dream of Opening a Cafe

When book lovers open a café, we are blessed with book cafes; when animal lovers open a café, we are given a myriad of animal cafes; what happens when florists open a café? This is the case of Mơ Đi H...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Ghé Coffee Tucks Art, Fragrant Coffee Into a Quiet D1 Crevice

Delivering premium origin coffee and fine art from artists across Vietnam in a tiny room that dates back to French colonial times, smack dab in the middle of District 1, The Ghé Coffee balances the fi...

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Sip on Mugwort Lattes, Make Ceramics, and Unwind at Haru Cottage

“I’m basically Demi Moore from Ghost,” this intrusive thought plagued my mind occasionally during our visit to Haru Cottage to participate in the cafe’s ceramic class.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Bingsu, Folk Crafts, and Hanboks at Hanoi's Hayoon Cafe

“What inspired you to open a Korean cafe?” I ask Giang, the manager of Hayoon Cafe in Nam Từ Liêm, a popular Korean district in Hanoi.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Tokyo Moon Cafe Introduces Homey Korean Flavors to Japan Town

Stepping into Tokyo Moon is like venturing into a world of wonders, neatly packed within a mere 35-square-meter space.

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: While the Day Away Under the Green Canopy of Cỏ Cafe

Under a thick canopy of verdant vines and minuscule pink flowers, it’s easy to indulge in the cooling comfort of a glass of iced tamarind juice and while the day away.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Reading Cabin Sells Stationery, Serves Drinks, and Builds Friendships

If I had to describe Reading Cabin in one phrase, it would be “every cafe in Saigon all at once.”

in Vietnam Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Đà Lạt's Nomadic 'Cafe' Has No Menu, No Store, and One Table

During a recent trip to Đà Lạt, a friend invited me for coffee at 5:30am. The frosty climate of the Central Highlands mornings concerned me, but upon hearing the pitch about a whimsical cafe that oper...

in Ănthology

In Massachusetts' Cicada Cafe, a Marriage Between New England and Vietnamese Flavors

“I don’t like the term ‘fusion,’” Vinh Lê, the chef of Cicada Coffee Bar, tells me. “You need to adapt. You need to adapt to the new environment, new life, when you move from Vietnam to the US. And to...

Paul Christiansen

in Dishcovery

A Simple Americano Goes a Long Way at Quy Nhơn's Lone Coffee Roaster

Saigon is spoiled with cafes. In addition to the street stalls hawking cheap phin coffee, international chains and charming mom-and-pop shops, the last decade has seen a proliferation of third-wave ve...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: A Ngõ Cafe Houses Big Dreams for Buôn Ma Thuột Beans

A well-known singer from the Central Highlands city of Buôn Ma Thuột, Mai Trang is taking an extended break from show business to focus on her other passion: coffee.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: In a 95-Year-Old House, Mết Coffee Sells Drinks, Cozy Conversations

It was a drizzly day. The chilliness and the weepy mood of Hanoi weather drenched me in an unnamed melancholy. I was ambling aimlessly on the street when I came across Mết, a coffee shop in ngõ Yên Th...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Căng Tin Cafe, a Gateway to the Past for the City's New Youth

Hanoi’s café scene is saturated with cafés selling a vision of the past.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Cozy up at Ẩn Cà Phê With Morning Coffees and Night Cocktails

In the Mood for Love, Wong Kar-wai’s elegantly restrained movie about married lovers resisting adultery, offers up a delicious cocktail of emotions. At least, that is the concept behind the drinks men...

Khôi Phạm

in Culture

What to See, Taste, and Do If You Have a Free Morning in Tân Định

There’s not much you’ll need to do to persuade me to drive, walk, crawl, scuttle or skate along the Nhiêu Lộc-Thị Nghè Canal — I adore its shaded, tree-lined pavements that much.

Paul Christiansen

in Saigon

Vignette: For Cafe 81 and the '404 Not Found' Places of Our Lives

We all have them.

Paul Christiansen

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Cà Phê Sữa and Cơm Tấm With a Side of Espionage History

Kimchi is not a common cơm tấm accouterment. The extra helping of chili pepper heat, palate-cleansing bitterness and cabbage leaf crunch doesn't taste out of place beside a fully loaded plate of broke...

in Architecture

Amid Bảo Lộc Hills, a Wooden Cafe Floats Amongst the Clouds

In the middle of nowhere Bảo Lộc, perched on the side of an alternative national road is the wooden carapace of Nguyen Coffee, a veritable “Noah’s ark” welcoming travelers in for a short break to enjo...

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Saigoneer's Picks of Saigon's 5 Best Cafes to Poop At

What brings you to coffee shops? Novelty beverages, mellow playlists, a feeling of home, proximity, or just simply convenience — all are valid attributes that have endeared me to many of my favorite c...

in Architecture

[Photos] Katinat Cafe's Gò Vấp Location Is an Industrial Glass Fortress

Cement, air, water, sand, and gravel: concrete is a simple material. Same for glass, that spread of super-heated quartz sand. 

in Vietnam

Đà Nẵng Cafe Sparks Heated Online Debate for Refusing to Serve Children Under 12

A seemingly innocuous notice by a coffee shop in Đà Nẵng has sparked polarizing responses from netizens across Vietnam.

in Hanoi

Hanoi Railway Cafe Gets Into Trouble for Hosting Dortmund Footballers

A photo of players from the Bundesliga club Borussia Dortmund enjoying coffee on the tracks running through Hanoi's shuttered train street circulated earlier this week, prompting authorities to say th...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: The 'Tiny' Cafe That Contains Multitudes

Hidden down a quiet alley opposite the B-52 Victory Museum on Đội Cấn in Ba Đình District is the gateway to Tiny Cafe. Make sure you look carefully, as the sign is easily missed, and this isn’t somewh...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: A Cafe-Snack Bar Hybrid in Bình Thạnh Offers Portals to Japanese Nostalgia

Bình Thạnh’s Ward 19 is snuggled between Xô Viết Nghệ Tĩnh and Nguyễn Hữu Cảnh, creating a surprisingly quiet area just across from District 1. As a neighborhood, it offers an eclectic mix of local an...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Café Slow Cultivates a Natural Habitat for Creature Comforts

It's incredibly challenging to set yourself apart in Ho Chi Minh City's overcaffeinated café scene. The city's narrow streets and hẻms are brimming with beans.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Secret Realm of Good Vibes Behind the Doors of Passengers Cafe

Like any person born after the year 1990, I am chronically affected by the condition of dawdling at a coffee shop for a supposed boost in productivity and “the vibes” when the clock strikes close to a...

in Architecture

Biên Hòa Cafe Embraces Industrial Design for a Transient Existence

If your dwelling is temporary, how much care do you pay to your surroundings?

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: The Peculiarity of a Coffee Sanctuary With No Menu and No Address

"SOLitude" — At first glance, the word conjures a sense of melancholic privateness in my ever-anxious soul. But not in a pessimistic way, fortunately.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Cafe Yên, Where the Line Between Coffee Shop and Alley Blurs

Yên (adj): quiet, unmoved.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Hide From the Monsoon Rain at Đặng Thị Nhu's Lost & Found Cafe

Lost & Found Café is a newly opened sister establishment to the popular Lost & Found Bar. Both adopt a pre-1975 Saigon vibe that I, as a Gen-Z Saigoneer who is nostalgic for old Saigon, immediate...

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Dream of the 2010s Is Alive at Pacey Cupcakes

Pick your favorite cupcake flavor; perhaps a pitcher of hot fragrant tea too. Ascend the dizzyingly steep flight of stairs. Mind your head. Tread gently on the wooden attic floor. There your friends a...

in Architecture

[Photos] T3 Architects Turned a Modernist Villa Into a Celebration of Chocolate

Looks like we'll be working remote today.

Michael Tatarski

in Natural Selection

Cầy Vằn Bắc: Caught in the Crossfire of the Cà Phê Chồn Industry

While Saigoneer’s Natural Selection series has already covered a number of iconic species and types of animals, including the tiger, Asian elephant, dogs and cats, there’s a good chance most of the pe...

in Music & Arts

Vietnam Post Releases Special Set of Stamps That Smell of Coffee

Have you ever sent a letter and thought "I wish there was some coffee in this envelope?"

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: In Warmth and Good Drinks, an Amiable Cafe's Spirit Lives On

How would you feel if everything about your favorite spot suddenly changed one day? Would the same attachment still stand? Those were the questions that popped into my head the afternoon I paid my vis...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: A Salted Coffee in Gạt Tàn Is Not What It Sounds Like

Is it not just the weirdest combination ever, coffee and salt?

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Kosmos Serves Carefully Made Drinks With a Side of Human Connection

“Do you know the difference between ‘Universe’ and ‘Cosmos’?” Linh, Kosmos' owner and barista, asks me.

in Architecture

[Photos] A D4 Cafe Inspired by a Bird's Nest Cradled by Wind

Birds sleep in nests in trees, and humans relax with coffee in houses and shops. But what if the two were mixed?

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: At Đống Đa's Gác Miên Cafe, a Midsummer's Dream

“Gác" means attic, but “Miên,” on the other hand, is something almost untranslatable, simply because there is no word in English that can fully encapsulate its essence.

in Culture

Sài Gòn Ơi, Let's Meet for Cà Phê Once the Pandemic Is Over

For various reasons, some city activities that I’ve long shunned are now replaying in my mind like footage of an old home video during these days of working from home.

in Food Culture

Phuc Long Coffee and Tea to Open First US Store in California in July

A Saigon youth staple is venturing beyond Vietnam with an ambitious expansion to the United States.

in Music & Arts

Vietnamese Agency Wins Dieline Design Award for Guta Rebranding Campaign

The masterminds behind the eye-catching brand identity of homegrown cafe chain Guta have been bestowed a shiny new award.

in Food Culture

Vietnamese-Style Coffee Company Raises Millions in US

A Vietnamese-style coffee company run by a Vietnamese-American woman is making waves in the United States.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: In a Converted Classroom Lives the Unique Open Space of Nhà Phạm

Having ventured into Saigon's food scene for a while, I have one guiding principle: the best spots are always the ones circulating via word of mouth. Quiet corners, culinary rarities and communities t...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Sample Creative Coffee and Hide From Life at Chốn Hạ Hồi

Definitely not an easy-to-stumble-upon coffee shop, Chốn is located in a small, deep alley.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Board Game Café Minipolo Bonds Friends Over Snakes and Lattes

Hanoi is no stranger to the board game café niche, but something about Minipolo has groups of friends flocking here day and night to fill the atmosphere with chatter, laughter and the occasional, inev...

in Podcast

Saigoneer Podcast: Vietnam's Contemporary Coffee Culture and a Street Food Update

A new Saigoneer Podcast episode is now available!

in Architecture

[Photos] Colorful New Coffee Shop Brings Cargotecture to Can Tho

Do you sometimes find vintage coffee shops too cluttered and just want to experience something different?

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Lily Coffee, a Hideaway for When Life Gets Overwhelming

Nestled in a nook so small that not many Hanoians even know of it, Lily Coffee is a true hideaway, with its entrance tucked on the side of an alley. The gate held ajar separates two worlds — one ...

Khoi Pham

in Vietnam Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Da Lat's Ngàn Cafe Is as Comforting as an Embrace

Walking down Da Lat’s Robin Hill amid emerald pine trees and languid fluffs of cloud, one’s eyes will inevitably encounter a visual disturbance in the form of bright orange plastic maple trees. They a...

Linh Pham

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Quán Nhạc Cầm Nurtures the Soul Like a Love Song

Albeit ostensibly a coffee shop, Cầm’s specialty is actually old Vietnamese music.

in Music & Arts

Crate-Digging for Audio Gold at the Second Hanoi Records Day

In September of this year, Quan Cam played host to VOC Record’s second Hanoi Records Day. Saigoneer met with the organizers and collectors to learn more about Vietnam’s growing culture of crate digger...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Thời Thanh Xuân, the Special Saigon Cafe Run by Deaf Staff

Quán của Thời Thanh Xuân not only encompasses the youth of its founder, Võ Thành Luân, it’s also where hard-of-hearing Vietnamese can write their own story, learn, focus on self-development, and be a ...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Hidden Gem, the Cafe that Recycled Knick-Knacks Built

It is difficult to describe Hidden Gem Café without paraphrasing its name, but I have not found a better way to characterize this wonderful establishment.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Sonder Cafe, a Home for Whimsical Drinks and Cool Beans

sonder (n): the realization that each random passerby is living a life as vivid and complex as your own.

Paul Christiansen

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: A Home for Live Music and Quietude Inside an Old French Villa

If Vừng Ơi Mở Ra Cafe were a person, it would be your older, more sophisticated and welcoming friend.

Paul Christiansen

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Spice up Your Study Session With a Warm Ginger Coffee at An Miên

”The flower was never meant to survive the fruit's triumph.”

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: A Stylish Urban Brew at the Effortlessly Hip Cà Thiều

Occupying a few meters of the sidewalk on Pho Nguyen Gia Thieu, a lovely leafy lane in the residential south of the French Quarter, Cà Thiều is nestled at the entrance of a dusty, unassuming apartment...

in Food Culture

Starbucks Unleashes Pumpkin Spice Latte on Vietnam for the First Time

Frequently mocked as an essential item alongside Ugg boots, yoga pants, scented candles and gender reveal parties in a "basic" starter pack, the popular fall beverage has arrived in Vietnamese St...

in Architecture

[Photos] New Da Nang Cafe Serves up Special Blend of Old and New Design

Across Vietnam’s metropolises, loss of heritage continues to be a challenge during a time of overly eager demolition and real estate fever.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

In Search of Charming Cafes Along Saigon's Train Alleys

Compared to Hanoi’s now-restricted Phung Hung “Train Street,” the neighborhoods bordering the railway in Saigon have neither the romanticism nor goosebumps-inducing adrenaline rush that turned the for...

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Lower Your Voice, the Hidden Elephant Is Reading

In Saigon’s indie cafe scene, there are household names and well-kept secrets; and then there are secrets that one might think are well-kept, but are actually household names. 

in Podcast

Saigoneer Podcast: The Gender, Generational Divides of Saigon's Civic Spaces

Episode 87 is ready for your ears!

in Environment

Central Highlands Coffee Farmers on Tenterhooks as Lack of Rainfall Dries Region

While the Mekong Delta struggles through a historic drought, the Central Highlands is dealing with its own lack of rainfall.

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: In Saigon's Greenest Cafe, a Rabbit, Cotton and Succulents Galore

On a windy autumn day of 2019, I did what any existentially precarious millennial would eventually do some time in their 20s: I bought a houseplant.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: In Phủ Cafe, Community Engagement Brings a Sense of Belonging

Three flights of stairs separate the street from Phủ Café’s timeworn interior. Their small sign won’t grab your attention if you’re passing by, but attracting new customers isn’t necessarily the aim.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Saigoneer's 7 Best Ngõ Nooks of 2019

2019 again witnessed the continued need for humans to consume food and drink to satisfy our energy requirements.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Loading T Serves up Decadent Egg Coffee in a 1930s Architectural Gem

Travel back in time to a café within a charming 1930s building, only a few hundred meters away from St Joseph’s Cathedral.

in Music & Arts

Saigon Independent Art Space San Art Launches Fundraising Exhibition This Month

Founded in 2007 by four artists including Dinh Q. Le, Tiffany Chung, Tuan Andrew Nguyen and Ha Thuc Phu Nam, the space is one of Saigon’s pioneer independent, non-profit and artist-initiated art platf...

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Saigon Retro Cafe Has Just the Right Amount of Sentimentality

It’s a teensy bit weird to say that my new favorite hangout is above a VinMart.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: In Xoan Cafe, a Sanctuary for Art, Tea and Cats

Curious cats, steaming tea and art-lined walls make Xoan Café feel like a home away from home.

in Food Culture

Not Just a Drink: As Vietnam's Coffee Scene Matures, It's Also Getting More Serious

If motorbikes are the choice mode of transportation in Saigon, coffee has got to be the choice stimulant and legal addiction. 

Thi Nguyen

in Music & Arts

Through Vietnam's Stories of Coffee and Rice, a Trio Finds Where Art and History Meet

Without notice, a gust of July rain swept through the museum of animals and plants' foyer, knocking down several paintings, strewing paper coffee cups and shattering the monitor that had been pla...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Hiding From Influencers in an Old-School Saigon Cafe

"Saigon in its golden age was a time to be remembered and passed down to younger generations. The vintage aesthetic trend in Vietnam has been around for a couple of years now and for me, it is a cause...

Michael Tatarski

in Environment

How Vietnam's Robusta Farms Could Transform Into Vital Carbon Sinks

Coffee is one of Vietnam’s most important agricultural products, a crop that grows so well in the country’s Central Highlands that it has become the world’s second-largest coffee producer.

Paul Christiansen

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: On the Nguyen Du Sidewalk, Connoisseur Coffee at Pavement Prices

Contemporary coffee culture in Saigon is largely one of extremes. On one end, enthusiasts at trendy shops source, grow, roast and meticulously prepare some of the finest beans in the wo...

in Architecture

[Photos] Blending in With Nature at a Rustic My Tho Coffee Shop

Set at canal-level, the serene coffee shop pays homage to the residents of the Mekong Delta who for centuries have built homes and communities betwixt channels, swamps and lakes.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Immerse Yourself in the Traditional Architecture of Cafe Nha San

Nestled deep in a dead-end street reached through a warren of alleyways from an almost impossible-to-see entrance is an ancient-looking building. This stunning traditional Vietnamese stilt-house is on...

in Food Culture

The Distinctly Da Lat Comfort of Bonding Over Coffee Beans

After a two-year stint as an English teacher in Saigon, Nick Melhuish decided that it was time to call it quits. He moved to Da Lat with his partner Brianna and his dog Sausage to open a bed & breakfa...

in Food Culture

Da Lat, the Unlikely Home of El Salvador's Rare Pacamara Coffee Beans

In a previous life, Nguyen Van Son was an auto parts salesperson. As a gift of appreciation for his wife, he acquired a seemingly trivial plot of land in Da Lat and made it a place where the family co...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Take a Ride on Ha Dong’s Hipster Bus Café

When you initially spot the café, it’s hard to tell exactly what it is — it isn’t hurtling towards you at 50 miles per hour and doesn’t have helmet shrapnel from its previous victims stuck to its...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Cu Xa, the Cafe That Awakens Your Childhood Self

“Where is home?” is a question that at some point has probably nagged everyone who feels caught between worlds. To the owner of a retro cafe in Hanoi’s southern Dong Da District, it’s Cu Xa.

in Vietnam

Cong Caphe Will Open First-Ever Outlet in Seoul This Month

The popular pre-Doi Moi-style coffee chain is set to expand to Seoul, South Korea.

in Food Culture

[Photos] Saigon's Old-School Cafes Hold Fast to Time-Honored Traditions

In a city of rapid change, there is no doubt that opinions on many subjects vary with passion and, sometimes, noticeable subtlety.

Michael Tatarski

in Environment

Coffee Production in Vietnam Faces Dark Future Under Climate Change

Rising temperatures and shifting rainfall patterns may cost Vietnam 50% of its current Robusta coffee production areas by 2050. Experts agree the situation looks dire, but there is hope that the count...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: A Cuppa in Saigon's Oldest Cafe

One of the first things Co Suong does when we sit down in the back of her tiny District 3 cafe is bring out the newspaper clippings.

Brian Letwin

in Food Culture

Can Coffee Save the Vietnamese Economy?

As inefficient state-owned business drag down Vietnam’s economy with bad debt, other sectors must pick up the slack. In times of economic stagnation, the country has one fallback - agriculture.

Brian Letwin

in Vietnam

Trung Nguyen Coffee Eyeing the International Market

Vietnam is now one of the world's top coffee exporters. While some local companies shake in their boots as Starbucks gears up to enter the Vietnamese market, the country’s largest coffee grower, Trun...