BackStories » Saigon

Paul Christiansen

in Travel

Ruminate on Our Natural Legacies While Surrounded by Cây Sao at Ao Bà Om

I never pass up an opportunity to reflect on chò nâu and its dipterocarp relative, cây sao. The massive trees that gracefully drag bare limbs upwards to unfurl canopies far above our heads were brough...

in Environment

Requiem for a Bàng Tree That Was Cut Down in Front of My Home

Curiosity drove me downstairs into the downpour. Out of the corner of my eye, I spotted the municipal workers — clad in orange-and-green uniforms, their clothes soaked — gathering around a crane. Thei...

Paul Christiansen

in In Plain Sight

To Appreciate Tao Đàn More, Study the Park's Past, Present, and Future

Shallow shrub and fern roots tussle to send shoots, tendrils and stalks up and outwards, sprawling across uneven ground and grasping at patches of light. A musky, funky, fetid soil stink emanates from...

in Parks & Rec

I Know Where the Caged Bird Sings: The Joy of Saigon's Birdsong Competition

One by one, motorbikes arrived, carrying the tell-tale cages covered with cloth and parked in the gravel lot beside the coffee shop where Saigoneer sat listening to the caged birds suspended above a p...

in Saigon

Hidden in the Heart of D5, an Architectural Vestige of 1970s Vietnam-Korea History

For years now, the verdant pine green pavilion in the heart of Hòa Bình Park in District 5 has been a familiar landmark for denizens of Chợ Lớn.

in Environment

On the 12th Day of Christmas Saigoneer Gave to Me: 12 Birdcalls From Across Vietnam

Almost everywhere we go in the world, birdsong abounds.

in Culture

Inside the Bình Thạnh Depot Where Retro Military Knick-Knacks Live

“This furniture has been around for many decades, but you can use them normally without the fear of breaking them. Because they are industrial equipment made for the military or office buildings, they...

in Parks & Rec

In Đà Nẵng, a Close-Knit Surfing Community Rides the Waves

Đà Nẵng does not feel like a surf town. The gaudy beachside nightclubs are a far cry from the bohemian vibes of Hawaii or San Diego, and the coastline is more synonymous with basket boats than surfboa...

in Saigon

Relive Your Memories of Saigon Water Park via These Photos by One of Its Makers

Although water parks involve a combination of two of the most tedious human experiences, standing in lines and prolonged direct sun exposure, the now-demolished Saigon Water Park was an icon of 2000s ...

in Parks & Rec

Tiny Tracks, Big Passion: Inside the Miniature World of Vietnam's Model Train Enthusiasts

“When you turn it on, the train is not only moving, but it can make sounds too. The sounds are so authentic that when I listen to it, I feel like I am sitting on a real train right now,” Minh Tú, a Sa...

in Environment

Learning to Coexist in Peace Is the First Step to Protect Vietnam's Last Remaining Elephants

A trail of enormous footprints, criss-crossing slabs of cracked concrete, lead to a battered ranger station in Vietnam’s Pù Mát National Park. Park staff say the wild Asian elephant that left the trac...

Khôi Phạm

in Natural Selection

The Rise and Fall of Phượng Vĩ, the Summer Icon of Our Teenage Dreams

I was a teenage cliché. No matter how much I try to rack my brain to find any other personal connection to the incandescently red tree that is phượng vĩ, I keep going back to my middle school crush an...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: In a Saigon Hẻm Lives a House for Rare Regional Delights

One fine day a few months ago, I embarked on a search for the flavors of faraway lands across Vietnam, all of which are present in a hẻm in the middle of Saigon.

in Parks & Rec

I Went Cloud-Hunting and Found Peace Atop Đà Lạt's Tea Hill

Northern California is blessed with serene nature. Growing up there, pathless trails and cloudy mountain peaks were my safe havens, and when returning home on break from college, it was a tradition to...

in Environment

I Saw the World's Most Handsome Bird Right in Vietnam's Hidden Backyard

Everywhere I go in Vietnam, I keep my eyes peeled for the incredible birds that call this country home. Sometimes I don’t even realize that I’m doing it. I scan the horizon above low hills for migrato...

in Environment

Đắk Lắk Receives $2.2m in Financial Support to End Elephant Rides by 2026

To be distributed between now and the end of 2026, the VND55 billion (US$2.2 million) provided by the Animals Asia Foundation (AAF) will be used to help tourism centers in Đắk Lắk Province b...

in Film & TV

HBO Adaptation of 'The Sympathizer' Casts Kiều Chinh, MC Kỳ Duyên, Sandra Oh

Hollywood stars Sandra Oh and Robert Downey Jr. are joined by a number of diasporic Vietnamese actors for the anticipated HBO adaptation of Viet Thanh Nguyen's Pulitzer Prize-winning novel The Sy...

in Travel

Beach Camping and Bamboo Rafting in Northern Vietnam's Largest Wetland

An overnight stay in Xuân Thủy National Park, Nam Định Province means potential bug bites, snake encounters and pungent ocean air, but also a rewarding quest into the wild wetlands of northern Vietnam...

Paul Christiansen

in Natural Selection

Khỉ Vàng: The Shit-Stirrer, Snack Thief, and Petty Criminal of Vietnam's Forests

I’m not a fucking idiot — That’s what I thought while looking at the sign hung from the door of my hotel room in Đà Nẵng.

in Parks & Rec

Losing Myself (and My Work Stress) in the Wacky World of Jazz Dance

Since I started my foray into jazz dance, the most common question I’ve gotten has been “What, you can dance to jazz?”

in Vietnam

Huế Announces Plan to Transform Hồ Thủy Tiên Waterpark Into Public Space

Authorities are planning to turn the long-abandoned Hồ Thủy Tiên Waterpark into a public space with the construction of a walking path, lighting, drainage system and water supply.

in Culture

The Peculiar Gender Dynamics of Hanoi's Male-Dominated Cờ Tướng Scene

On a sunset wander through Hanoi, you may be surprised by the peculiar sight of men haphazardly perched in nooks and crannies playing the ancient game of xiangqi.

Paul Christiansen

in Natural Selection

The Prehistoric Permanence of Cá Sấu, Vietnam's Farmed Predator

I’ve always hated cá sấu. Not because they’ve threatened my safety or had any real impact on my life whatsoever, but simply because they survived. When a meteor cratered into Earth 66 million years ag...

in Parks & Rec

How Exotic Pole Dance Challenges Both Personal Limits and Gender Stereotypes

Flashing flares of neon lights hug the body of a dancer who’s spinning around a pole in the raucous thrum of music and sensuous gasps. In the mind of the average Vietnamese, pole dancing is often asso...

in Natural Selection

Đom Đóm: Why the Light Is Going Out for Fireflies in Vietnam

Much like their brief existence on Earth, once-common fireflies are quickly disappearing from Vietnam’s natural and oral histories.

in Environment

Award-Winning Children's Book on Conservation to Release Sequel Tomorrow

Saving H'non: Chang and the Elephants, a sequel to the critically acclaimed children’s book by Trang Nguyễn, is scheduled to hit shelves on June 11 following the success of Saving Sorya: Chang and the...

in Environment

Lê Xuân Ái, Vietnam's Dedicated Turtle Conservationist, Passes Away at 63

Last week, Lê Xuân Ái, the former director of Côn Đảo National Park, passed away at the age of 63 after years of battling cancer. He had made great contributions to the revival and preservation of sea...

Linh Phạm

in Parks & Rec

Left Foot Brake, Right Foot Gas: Hanoi's Go-Kart Track Is Fast and Glorious

Moments before the engine started, I became aware of the fact that just a few centimeters of metal and plastic separated my butt and the asphalt.

in Saigon

Saigon Plans to Add 10ha of Public Parks by End of 2022

The additional parks are part of a goal to have 3–4 square meters of green space per Saigon resident by 2030.

in Environment

Searching for the World's Largest Woodpecker Species in Yok Đôn National Park

You first know she’s approaching by the sound of her wings; her broad shadow flashing across the forest floor. Even from far below, her body looks enormous. At half a meter long, she is roughly five t...

in Parks & Rec

Wind, Sun and the Ocean: The Aerial Thrills of Paragliding Over Đà Nẵng

Paragliding means heaving in a lungful of air, bracing against a gale’s resistance, letting one’s mind ponder the vastness of the ocean below, floating in the middle of the sky, and — for me this time...

in Vietnam

Hanoi Envisions 6 More Metro Lines for City Center by 2050

Earlier this week, Hanoi unveiled a general plan for the underground development of the city center which includes adding six metro lines and 81 underground stations. 

Brian Letwin

in Parks & Rec

Slugging It Out at Saigon’s Baseball Cage

For much of my adult life, in the months from February to October, my mood was dictated by the results of New York Mets games. 

Linh Pham

in Parks & Rec

House Dance Hanoi Teaches You How to Free the Body

I stood on the top floor of a building on Khâm Thiên Street, feeling grateful for the cold air. I came out here to take a break from the other side of the floor, which was divided into three rooms — t...

in Saigon

Saigon's Bạch Đằng Park to Get Trees, Restrooms, Parking Space After Complaints

After a few months under renovation, District 1’s Bạch Đằng Wharf was unveiled as a brand-new park just before Tết last month.

in Development

US Investors Reportedly Eye Disneyland, Universal Studios in Vietnam

A group of American investors expressed interests in to building a Disneyland in Saigon, a Universal Studios in Hanoi and a SeaWorld in Khánh Hòa Province.

in Environment

The Greater Mekong's Primates Are Under Threat, but All Hope Is Not Lost

A recent report from the WWF has highlighted ongoing threats to the Greater Mekong's wondrous, but shrinking, bounty of unique primates, as well efforts to bring these amazing creatures back from the ...

in Parks & Rec

The Weird, Whimsical, Wondrous World of Art Toys in Vietnam

At the end of 1999, Hong Kong artist and designer Michael Lau presented the “Gardener” toy collection, an amalgamation of his interests in G.I. Joe action figures and street culture. The launch is wid...

in Architecture

[Photos] At Hanoi's Astronomy Park, an Earth-Bound Journey to the Stars

Vietnam's major cities are infamously short on green space, so any new park is noteworthy — particularly when they are as uniquely designed as the Astronomy Park in Hanoi's western suburbs.

in Parks & Rec

Seeking Solace in the Fantastical Adventures of Dungeons and Dragons

Contrary to popular belief, Dungeons and Dragons isn’t just a geeky hobby, to me, it's a form of “group therapy” that is slowly taking shape in Vietnam, bringing fun and memorable bonding moments to t...

in Parks & Rec

In a Schoolyard, a Close-Knit Community Spearheads Saigon's Archery Scene

Laser-focused gazes, shiny bows, colorful targets, and looking cool as hell: these are the components of a picture-perfect post one might find on the Instagram of any budding archer. But social media ...

in Architecture

[Photos] VTN's Stunning Bamboo Restaurant on the Edge of Cúc Phương National Park

Floating on emerald water amid lush foliage-covered hilltops, the structure could pass for the setting of a fantasy novel.

Paul Christiansen

in Natural Selection

Voi: From Hai Bà Trưng's Fearsome Companions to Tourism Servants

Does art need a purpose?

in Environment

UNESCO Recognizes Nui Chua, Kon Ha Nung as Vietnam's New Biosphere Reserves

They are in Ninh Thuan and Gia Lai.

in Parks & Rec

Yin Yoga: Beyond Daily Practice

Like two sides of the same coin, yin and yang cannot exist without the other. It’s about dualism, the interconnected and interdependent nature of the world. To say yang, it must be in the context of s...

in Architecture

[Photos] In Quang Ninh, a Dilapidated Park Receives New Lease on Life

The 1990s Quang Ninh Park was nearly abandoned in need of a revamp to attract local exercisers and loafers alike.

in Vietnam

Vietnam Crossed 1,000 Daily Covid-19 Cases for the First Time Yesterday

July 5 was a dark day in Vietnam’s epidemic, as the country’s single-day COVID-19 case tally surpassed 1,000 for the first time since the pandemic began last year.

in Saigon

D1 Proposes VND32.5bn Revamp Project of Me Linh Square Park

The VND32.5 billion (US$1.4 million) effort will focus on repairing the T​rần Hưng Đạo Statue, planting ornamental trees and performing road repairs.  

in Parks & Rec

Saigon's Only Bonsai School Grooms Budding Artisans on a Century-Old Craft

Bonsai has often been regarded as an activity for the elderly, but the local bonsai community is experiencing an unprecedented renewal thanks to the participation of an unexpected demographic: young p...

in Saigon

Saigon Approves Removal of 178 Trees for Bach Dang Wharf Renovation Project

They were nice while they lasted.

Michael Tatarski

in Parks & Rec

Emerging From Complete Obscurity, Saigon Roller Derby Storms the Rink

It’s a Tuesday night in Binh Quoi, and a group is lacing up their skates at a skating rink next to a football pitch.

in Music & Arts

The Wildlife Artist Who Paints the Beauty of Vietnam’s Endangered Nature

Dao Van Hoang, a self-taught painter, welcomed us into his studio at Le Petit Musée in Thao Dien. Surrounded by watercolors of exotic plants and paintings of wild animals, he shared with us his life s...

in Environment

The Story of Hồng Hoàng: From the 1st Vietnamese in Antarctica to a Fervent Wildlife Activist

For Hồng Hoàng, a career in environmental activism in Vietnam began with a polar expedition.

in Vietnam

Phu Tho Theme Park Suspended After Roller Coaster Accident Kills 1, Injures 2

One student died and two others were hospitalized after a roller coaster accident at an amusement park.

in Environment

Phu Quoc Arrests Local Man for Repeatedly Destroying Forest in National Park

Despite previous warnings, the man repeatedly committed major acts of deforestation over the span of more than a decade.

in Saigon

Higher Fee, Worse Pickup Location at Airport Draw Ire of Passengers, Rideshare Drivers

While aiming to reduce congestion at the domestic terminal, a new lane designation policy imposed by the Tan Son Nhat administration has created new inconveniences.

Michael Tatarski

in Environment

Vietnam's New Nature Reserve, Khe Nuoc Trong, Is a Sign of Hope for Biodiversity

In a move wildlife conservationists are hailing as a victory, Vietnam has established a new nature reserve encompassing critical habitat for numerous species, several of them threatened globally with ...

in Vietnam

After Storm Noul, Hue Mourns Its Unnamed Victims: 10,000 Trees

Last weekend saw the arrival of Storm Noul, which wreaked havoc on the central coast of Vietnam, causing massive destruction and displacing many families.

in Environment

3 Endangered Langurs Were Released Back Into the Wild in Ninh Binh

The trio of critically endangered Delacour's langurs (voọc mông trắng) had been at a conservation center in Cuc Phuong National Park.

in Saigon

The Delay Continues for Saigon's Parking Lot Project Under Tao Đàn Park

Ten years after it was first approved, construction of the parking lot below District 1's Tao Đàn Park has again been delayed.

in Saigon

Saigon Announces Large Natural Eco Park for Thu Thiem

Will this major green space project come to fruition in Thu Thiem?

in Saigon

PouYuen, Saigon's Biggest Employer, Lays Off 3,000 Workers, Citing Covid-19 Slump

Although Vietnam’s economy is not as badly hit as that of our neighbors, local companies are still struggling to recover from the slump brought about by the global pandemic.

in Saigon

Saigon Begins Redesigning Park Project in Front of Opera House

When complete, the 1,300-square-meter area will feature trees, vegetation, grass and pathways for communal use.

in Architecture

[Photos] This New Public Space in Vung Tau Is a Natural Oasis

While Vietnam’s teeming cities are generally home to innovative construction projects, there are a number in less urbanized areas.

in Saigon

Saigon Launches Citywide Tree Inspection After Falling Phượng Kills Student

In the near future, some students from Saigon’s public schools might witness the removal of their favorite canopy trees.

in Sports

Coach Park Hang-Seo Plans to Open Football Academy in Vietnam

He aims to remain in Vietnam after his coaching contract ends.

in Travel

Hue's Infamous Abandoned Water Park Might Get a Makeover Soon

After years in limbo, Hue is making plans to transform the derelict Ho Thuy Tien Amusement Park into a more useful site.

in Vietnam

Scientists Discover 12 New Caves in Quang Binh During March Expedition

The caves are over 10 kilometers in length when put together.

in Saigon

Saigon Will Use CCTV to Catch Illegal Parking on 14 Streets Starting Today

As of now, cameras to monitor illegal parking have been installed on 14 streets.

in Sports

Coach Park Hang-Seo Fined $5,000 by AFC for Tantrum During SEA Games Final

Coach Park Hang-seo has been fined US$5,000 fine and suspended for four games for the red card he received during the final match of last year's SEA Games.

in Film & TV

[Photos] Japan Releases New Sketches of Upcoming Ghibli Theme Park

A cafeteria containing Spirited Away's ghostly food stalls, a full-size version of the house where Mei and Satsuki lived when they first met Totoro, and an interactive version of the Irontown tha...

in Development

Saigon Announces Plan for 150-Hectare Multi-Purpose Park in D12

The park will be located in Thanh Xuan and Thoi An wards.

in Saigon

A Park Hang-Seo Street Sign Popped up in Saigon and Was Quickly Removed

Have you ever loved someone so intensely that you want to name a street after them?

in Saigon

Saigon Pilots Park-and-Ride Scheme at Ham Nghi Central Bus Terminal

Authorities hope the parking facility will increase convenience for bus riders.

in Sports

In Its 2nd Edition, Coupe de Hue Features Bach Ma Mountain Trail, World-Famous Cyclist

Vietnam is opening itself up as a destination for international-standard competitive cycling events. But can the momentum last? 

in Society

[Video] In Remembrance of a Green Ton Duc Thang Past

October 2017 spelled the death of Ton Duc Thang Street in spirit after Saigon maintenance workers started slaying its trees to make way for bridge construction.

in Development

[Photos] Inside Cat Tien National Park's New Bear Sanctuary Made From Wire and Pebbles

The group of buildings inside Cat Tien National Park provides a comfortable home to 40 sun and moon bears that have been rescued from illegal trafficking and the bear bile industry.

Michael Tatarski

in Music & Arts

[Video] Saigon-Based Directors Feature Abandoned Hue Waterpark in New Music Video

A small boat reaches shore and an adventure begins at the wild, abandoned Ho Thuy Tien Waterpark outside of Hue.

Michael Tatarski

in Travel

[Photos] Hue's Abandoned Waterpark Is a Post-Apocalyptic Beauty

Just south of Hue sits the Ho Thuy Tien Waterpark. Once a sign of aspirational middle-class family entertainment, it now sits abandoned, creating an eerie, graffiti-splashed destination in its own rig...