Saigoneer

Hẻm Gems: Saigon’s Original Bánh Mì Breakfast

I am a lifetime supporter of the sandwich.

Read more...

Hẻm Gems: Dessert Happy Hour at Quynh Hoa

Just as rush hour traffic starts to pick up around me, motorbikes zipping back and forth down the wide alley, I send a message to my coworker.

Read more...

Hẻm Gems: Good Bánh Bèo Comes to Those Who Wait

The most memorable eating experiences are the ones that take time. Of all the meals Saigon’s sidewalks can offer, the best require a pilgrimage to some faraway district and a series of trial-and-error expeditions down darkened alleys in search of your meal’s exact location. Once you finally arrive, there’s another wait – perhaps for a place to sit, perhaps for the food itself – before the final prize arrives at your table.

Read more...

[Video] Hẻm Gems: Fish Balls, Curry and Noodle Soup, a Perfect Storm

Some may say that good things in life come when you least expect them, and from my encounter with this week’s Hem Gem – curry fish balls and noodles – you can count me in as a firm believer in this particularly Hakuna Matata-esque philosophy.

Read more...

Hẻm Gems: Enter the Bánh Đúc Jungle

While many of our culinary adventures take us out of our downtown comfort zone, there are a few gems hidden among the office buildings and skyscrapers of District 1.

Read more...

Hẻm Gems: For Good Phở in Saigon, a Dollar Is All You Need

You can really stretch a dollar in this country. That's two cà phê sữa đá or two bánh mì, a couple liters of bia hơi, a xe ôm ride, a well-bargained souvenir, enough snacks to constitute a meal or a steaming hot bowl of phở.

Read more...

Hẻm Gems: The Best Bún Chả in Hanoi…in Saigon

The weather was truly Hanoian earlier this week. Outside, rain fell in sheets, flooding the pockmarked alley outside our office door. The sun had disappeared. Though a few particularly photo-obsessed teens continued to pose before the graffiti splashed across 3A Station's walls, most had given up and retreated to shops and cafes.

Read more...

Hẻm Gems: The Legend of Baby African

You'll have to clear an afternoon to get to Baby African.

Read more...

[Video] Hẻm Gems: The Long but Worthwhile Wait for Xôi Chiên

They say the best things in life are worth waiting for. In the case of the elusive xôi chiên, they're right.

Read more...

Hẻm Gems: Binh Thanh's Delectable Bánh Căn

Located on a busy street in Binh Thanh District, Hai Ton Quan is a small, family-run restaurant that serves up Phan Rang-style cuisine, that glorious mixture of tasty, golden-brown rice cakes and fresh seafood.

Read more...

[Video] Hẻm Gems: D5’s Glorious Goat Curry

One of the benefits or writing this column is that it allows us to sample some of Saigon’s best local eateries. We may be well versed in the ways of street noshing, but once in a blue moon, we come across a dish that has us high fiving and silently pigging out without a word exchanged. Behold District 5’s Musa Cà Ri Dê Ấn Độ.

Read more...

Video »

BUDX HCMC