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in Vietnam

For Hội An Residents, Learning to Live With Floods Is a Fact of Life

The water reached my shoulders, and when I stepped into the street I suddenly felt the current trying to pull me into its invisible grasp. A familiar feeling that set off an alarm inside my head: “Be ...

Paul Christiansen

in Travel

Art, Flowers Bloom at Huế’s Hidden Museum, Lebadang Memory Space

People often think that art is distant and difficult to appreciate, but a garden is different; everyone knows how to admire a flower.

in Music & Arts

In Action Together During Traveling Art Week Nổ Cái Bùm 2024

Taking place in Đà Nẵng and Hội An earlier in August 2024, the traveling art week Nổ Cái Bùm 2024 became a platform for local artists to showcase artworks, and attracted the attention of many local an...

in Culture

This Trung Thu, Learn How to Make Lion Heads From Huế's Lân Artisans

Often seen as the heart of Central Vietnam, Huế is the birthing ground for many traditional crafts. Artisan products from the ancient city often exude its inhabitants' elegance and rustic quality. Amo...

in Vietnam

A Visual Timeline of Hội An's Historic Chùa Cầu Through the Eras

With the recent makeover of Hội An's Chùa Cầu sparking divisive chatter, it's a great time to gaze at the iconic Japanese bridge through the decades.

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: An Alternative Cao Lầu in Saigon for Full-Topping Eaters

If I have to use one word to describe the food philosophy of Saigoneers, it would be maximalist. Those who have had the gluttonous joy of hunkering down on a plastic chair on the sidewalk and demolish...

in Vietnam

Chùa Cầu's Makeover Draws Ire of Netizens for Looking 'Too New'

Hội An's 400-year-old bridge, best known as Chùa Cầu, was finally uncovered recently after more than a year and a half of renovations, leaving many unimpressed.

in Vietnam

Huế Becomes 1st City With Dedicated Lanes on Pavements for Bicycles

The growing popularity of biking as a recreational activity in Vietnam has been acknowledged officially by urban planners in Huế.

Brian Letwin

in Travel

The Quiet Calm of Hiding From the Heat Under Phan Rang's Grapevines

The punishing mid-day sun dictates the pace of life in the corridor between Phan Rang and Cam Ranh, where locals escape to their living rooms or hammocks, and tourists seek the cooling breeze of the b...

in Food Culture

Đà Nẵng Is Michelin's New Destination for 2024 Version of Vietnam Guide

After Saigon and Hanoi, Đà Nẵng will be the next Vietnamese city with its own Michelin Guide selections.

in Music & Arts

Nam Jam Festival Returns to Đà Nẵng With Week of Mural Arts

The Nam Jam Festival from March 4 to 10 invites more than 50 local and international street artists to create massive works of street art in Đà Nẵng. 

in Culture

Meet 90-Year-Old Huỳnh Văn Ba, the Father of Hội An's Foldable Lanterns

In his 90s, Huỳnh Văn Ba’s hair has turned completely silver, but when he was telling me stories about lanterns, his voice and eyes sparkled with a particularly lively hope. Thanks to Ba’s invention —...

in Food Culture

Meet the Hội An Family Making Cao Lầu Noodles From Scratch

Amid Hội An’s treat-filled culinary landscape, cao lầu emerges as something that’s both simple and one-of-a-kind.

in Parks & Rec

In Đà Nẵng, a Close-Knit Surfing Community Rides the Waves

Đà Nẵng does not feel like a surf town. The gaudy beachside nightclubs are a far cry from the bohemian vibes of Hawaii or San Diego, and the coastline is more synonymous with basket boats than surfboa...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Bánh Canh Hẹ Is Phú Yên's Homage to Chives and the Sea

Ever since I was a kid, I have had a general dislike towards vegetables, but green onion has always been an exception. I regard green onion as a garnish that can lighten up the whole dish, and it seem...

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Best Cao Lầu Outside of Hội An Is in Tân Bình

Years ago, the first time I ate cao lầu, I committed a cardinal sin. As I gazed upon my freshly assembled bowl of noodles, without much thought, I asked the waitress for more sauce.

in Vietnam Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: In Đà Nẵng, Góc Nhà Tụi Mình Is Where Tea Time Feels Like Home

As a Đà Nẵng native, I often get asked where and what to eat and drink by friends who are in town. The tried-and-true list of places in my mind always includes Góc Nhà Tụi Mình, which I’ve frequented ...

in Culture

Phan Thiết's Vibrant Whale Worship Festival Reflects Vietnam's Rich Animist Traditions

Whale worship started from a folk belief harbored by fishermen seeking help from the gods to endure the arduous days spent at sea, but over time, it grew to become one of the most prominent spiritual ...

in Saigoneer Getaways

Just 12km From Huế, a Hidden Lake Welcomes You to a Night of Stargazing

If you’ve been meaning to embark on a trip to escape from the chaos of daily life but aren’t quite keen to plunge straight into the wilderness, Huế might be the perfect next destination. The city...

Paul Christiansen

in Music & Arts

In Huế, an Interdisciplinary Exhibition Opens Literal and Metaphorical Doors

“I cannot stop opening doors,” Phan Lê Hà said in regard to the physical objects that reappear throughout her creative works.

Paul Christiansen

in Environment

Vignette: Behold Vietnam's Oldest Rock, a Memento Mori of Human Insignificance

While lamenting how long it had been since I’d last sent a postcard, a coworker at Saigoneer revealed that she is too young to have ever seen a stamp in person, let alone affixed one to a letter. The ...

Paul Christiansen

in Dishcovery

A Simple Americano Goes a Long Way at Quy Nhơn's Lone Coffee Roaster

Saigon is spoiled with cafes. In addition to the street stalls hawking cheap phin coffee, international chains and charming mom-and-pop shops, the last decade has seen a proliferation of third-wave ve...

in Vietnam

'Engaging With Vietnam' Conference Ruminates on Heritage in Huế

“Living with Heritage, (Re)Creating Heritage: Vietnam and the World” is the title of the 14th Engaging with Vietnam conference, a series of activities including academic panel discussions, keynote tal...

Paul Christiansen

in Culture

Vignette: How Bình Định's Nón Ngựa Gave Me Hope for the Tourism Industry

In 1964, when Đỗ Văn Lan was only 14 years old, a group of American soldiers spent six months at his family’s Bình Định home learning how to make nón ngựa. Once he learned that I am American, he told ...

in In Plain Sight

As Science Advances and Stigma Fades, Quy Hòa Leprosy Village Seems Frozen in Place

Many of the images conjured by the word leprosy (bệnh phong) can be unsettling to some. Yet, the misunderstood disease exposes the capacity for human care and empathy. Quy Nhơn’s Quy Hoà lep...

Paul Christiansen

in Vietnam

In Bình Định, a Museum Retells Nguyễn Huệ's Glorious Life via Vivid Murals

About 45 kilometers from downtown Quy Nhơn stands the Quang Trung Museum (Bảo tàng Quang Trung), one of Vietnam’s finest museums.

in Snack Attack

The Good, the Fresh and the Crispy: Quy Nhơn's Wondrous Cuisine in 3 Dishes

A beautiful coastline, stunning rolling mountainscapes, and multiple historic vestiges are not the only merits of Quy Nhơn City.

Paul Christiansen

in Vietnam Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Quy Nhơn's Unique Take on Bánh Khọt and Peanut Sauce

You’ve probably never had bánh khọt like this before.

Paul Christiansen

in In Plain Sight

Notes From the Hiking Trail to Catch the Morning Sun in Quy Nhơn

Do you prefer a view of the beach or mountains?

Paul Christiansen

in Travel

Vignette: Letters to Hàn Mặc Tử

Quy Nhơn residents mentioned Hàn Mặc Tử with great pride and reverence whenever I mentioned enjoying reading and writing poems. 

in Vietnam

Quy Nhơn's Rustic Coastal Charms in the 1960s via Vintage Photos

Saigoneer makes no attempts to hide our love for Quy Nhơn.

Paul Christiansen

in Travel

An Awe-Inspiring Bird's-Eye View of Bình Định's Chăm Towers

What if memories were not collections of chemicals and electrical impulses stored in the fleshy recesses of a mind, but physical objects made of brick and stone?

in Travel

Hội An's Plan to Charge Entrance Fees From Next Month Faces Backlash

Hội An’s upcoming plan to enforce its admission rules for Vietnamese tourists has inspired negative reactions from the general public.

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: We Found Huế's Roast Pork Chè in Saigon, but It's Complicated.

When the parent ingredients are such top-tier performers in their respective categories, it’s natural to feel disappointed that the resulting combination is so subpar.

in Vietnam

Đà Nẵng Cafe Sparks Heated Online Debate for Refusing to Serve Children Under 12

A seemingly innocuous notice by a coffee shop in Đà Nẵng has sparked polarizing responses from netizens across Vietnam.

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Bún Bò Đà Nẵng Will Change How You Feel About Bún Bò in Saigon

Have you ever wondered who named our food? Oftentimes I do, and I daydream of traveling back in time to those monumental moments in the past when a famous dish or ingredient earned its title to slap s...

in Vietnam Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: In Đà Nẵng, Dì Gái's Bún Chả Cá Is a Family Heirloom

Sometimes, for descendants of Central Vietnam, a bowl of steaming bún chả cá can even sooth the pain and misery of a storm-battered rainy season.

in Architecture

On a Hill in Huế, a Glass-Filled Home Welcomes Natural Light With Open Arms

Are hills simply mountains that lack ambition?

in Culture

In Ninh Thuận's Chăm Community, a Joyous Celebration of Katê, the Year's Most Important Festival

The Katê festival is the oldest and most unique festival of the Chăm ethnic minority and has been recognized as a national intangible cultural heritage by Vietnam's Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tou...

Paul Christiansen

in Natural Selection

Khỉ Vàng: The Shit-Stirrer, Snack Thief, and Petty Criminal of Vietnam's Forests

I’m not a fucking idiot — That’s what I thought while looking at the sign hung from the door of my hotel room in Đà Nẵng.

Paul Christiansen

in Culture

In Đà Nẵng, a Vintage Money Aficionado Forgoes Professorship for Life in the Night Market

What gives one’s life meaning? For some, it’s faith, family or art. For Trần Văn Nam, it’s money, but not in the way you probably imagine.

in Vietnam

From North to South, Glimpses of Street Life in Vietnam in the Early 1990s

If there’s a thing this writer remembers distinctly about the early 1990s, it would be nothing, because I was barely a person that could eat and survive by myself.

Paul Christiansen

in Vietnam Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: In Đà Nẵng, Bánh Xèo Bà Dưỡng's Sauce Is Good Enough to Drink

The secret is the sauce. And the sauce is a secret. The owners of Đà Nẵng’s Bánh Xèo Bà Dưỡng refuse to reveal the recipe for the rich, meaty, and multi-faceted sauce that falls somewhere between hex ...

in Vietnam

Huế Announces Plan to Transform Hồ Thủy Tiên Waterpark Into Public Space

Authorities are planning to turn the long-abandoned Hồ Thủy Tiên Waterpark into a public space with the construction of a walking path, lighting, drainage system and water supply.

in Ton-sur-Ton

Great Vietnam Resurrects Nguyễn-Era Fashion, One Traditional Costume at a Time

In the last four to five years, ancient Vietnamese costumes have gained more visibility, becoming a welcome sight among young locals thanks to the efforts to reproduce and promote historic fashion fro...

in Vietnam

While Seeking Lost Pets, Nha Trang Man Rescues 31 Dogs From Slaughterhouse

A man living in Nha Trang has earned kudos from animal lovers across Vietnam for saving 31 local dogs. 

in Architecture

In Huế, a Glass Cottage to Spend the Rest of Your Life With Your Beloved

If somehow your relationship manages to survive illnesses, conflicts, and external temptations to endure until both of you are in your sunset years, how would you spend the rest of your life?

in Travel

A Merry Morning Over the Fish Markets and Salt Fields of Phan Rang

I live in Đà Lạt, so the most direct route to the coast brings me to Phan Rang, which is where I often go for the beach and seafood.   

in Architecture

[Photos] This Buôn Ma Thuột House Is a Cottagecore Dreamland

In recent years, the Central Highlands has slowly become one of the most sought-after regions in Vietnam for young people to travel and live in.

in Vietnam

Huế Launches Public Bicycle Trial Program With 7 Stations, 250 Bikes

This Monday, Huế launched the pilot phase of its public bike rental system.

in Vietnam

Controversy Brews Over 'Minh Mạng' Herbal Tea Brand's Song Joong-Ki Packaging

A tea product featuring the face of a South Korean celebrity has turned into a royal pain for its manufacturer.

in Food Culture

Saijo, Huế's Sister City in Japan, Adds Bún Bò to School Lunch Program

Another step toward bún bò domination has been taken.

in Parks & Rec

Wind, Sun and the Ocean: The Aerial Thrills of Paragliding Over Đà Nẵng

Paragliding means heaving in a lungful of air, bracing against a gale’s resistance, letting one’s mind ponder the vastness of the ocean below, floating in the middle of the sky, and — for me this time...

in Travel

Vọng Cảnh, the Picturesque Hill in Huế That Even Emperors Cherished

The poetic Hương River flows calmly, the fresh air and breeze whisper through the lush pine forest, a coming sunset colors the peaceful natural spectacle. All of this can be experienced during a late-...

in Travel

The Charm of Hòn Yến, Where Coral-Watching Doesn't Involve Diving

Every year, from May to August, when the water reaches its lowest levels at Hòn Yến, a “jungle” of vibrant coral reefs and other marine creatures rises to the surface.

in Vietnam

Huế Plans to Relocate 100-Year-Old French Mansion to Make Room for Hotel

To make room for new developments, Huế authorities are mulling options to uproot and relocate a century-old villa.

Michael Tatarski

in Environment

Huế's Fantastic Herbs and Where to Find Them, Now in Book Form

Have you ever walked past a plant and wondered "Hey, I wonder what that could do?"

in Vietnam

[Photos] Old Film Photos Capture a Serene Huế in 1961

These colorful photos of Huế in the early 1960s provide outsiders an important view of the country at a pivotal time. 

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: In Saigon, Go Mô Rứa for a Well-Crafted Huế Culinary Feast?

In the Huế dialect, mô rứa is a phrase one might encounter often in daily conversation. When a Huế resident asks “Mi đi mô rứa?” they might be wondering where you’re heading.

in Environment

New Flowering Plant Species Confirmed in Central Vietnam Nature Reserve

If you discovered a new plant, what would you call it?

in Vietnam

[Photos] On the Road in 1965 Quy Nhơn

Imagine Quy Nhon before the arrival of tourism.

in Vietnam

Hoi An Signs Agreement With Four Paws to Cease Consumption of Dog, Cat Meats

The move is certainly a step in the right direction, though it remains to be seen which concrete steps local authorities will take to honor their promise.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: One Bowl, Two Noodle Dishes, and Heaps of Hometown Glory

On the slope connecting Binh Thanh and Phu Nhuan districts lives a small pocket of Quang Nam culinary spirits — in the form of “two-in-one” noodles.

in Vietnam

As Cases Rise, Da Nang to Establish Walk-in Covid-19 Vaccination Site

As Da Nang experiences its highest new COVID-19 case numbers in two months, city leaders are ramping up vaccination efforts.

in Vietnam

After Each Flood, Hoi An Picks Itself up, Just Like It Has Always Done

Every year, Vietnam braces for dozens of tropical storms coming from the East Sea. Localities along the coast in central Vietnam have to bear devastating destruction caused by Mother Earth whenever se...

in Architecture

[Photos] VTN's Stunning Bamboo Restaurant on the Edge of Cúc Phương National Park

Floating on emerald water amid lush foliage-covered hilltops, the structure could pass for the setting of a fantasy novel.

in Culture

How to Make a Bamboo Basket Boat, as Demonstrated by Phú Yên Artisans

As part of the sweltering south-central coast, Phu Yen Province has cultivated strong roots in the arts of gathering and rearing seafood.

in Environment

Vietnamese Photographer Clinches 2nd Prize in UK Biology Photo Competition

Trương Hoài Vũ's 'Hòn Yến marine ecosystem' nabbed the honor of runner-up in the 2021 Royal Society of Biology’s photography competition in the Photographer of The Year category.

in Vietnam

Hue to Spend $20m to Restore 5 Historical Sites From Nguyen Dynasty

Five sites in the ancient capital will be restored at a total cost of over VND460 billion (nearly US$20.2 million) over the next five years.

in Culture

Basket Boats: A Key Part of Everyday Life in Coastal Vietnam

Vietnam’s narrow tube houses come from the feudal era and the tax policy in effect at the time. The feudal state charged a fee based on the width of the street-facing facade to collect taxes, pushing ...

in Environment

5ha of Coastal Protection Forest Destroyed by Solar Power Project: 'It Was an Accident'

While carrying out site clearance for a solar power project in Binh Dinh Province, workers unlawfully destroyed a large swath of local coastal protection forest.

Paul Christiansen

in Music & Arts

Born Into Traditional Craft, a Young Sculptor Finds Joy in Carving Pop Culture

“Even though they know deeply that it’s beautiful, they cannot feel it because it’s not familiar to them,” Duy Trần says of younger generations that gaze upon the traditional wood sculptures in his fa...

in Vietnam

[Photos] Memories of Hue, Quang Tri in 1967 Through the Lens of Edward Palm

Empty streets, lines for food, shuttered shops: the last few weeks have certainly provided some strange scenes for Saigon residents. 

in Music & Arts

What Happens When Artists Turn a Fishing Village Into Their Canvas?

Imagine if your home village was suddently transformed into a giant canvas for murals.

in Travel

A Day in the Life of Madame Xuân, Hoi An's 85-Year-Old Vegetable Vendor

She is not famous but has silently become a part of Hoi An’s cultural beauty for years.

in Travel

With Summer Comes a Glorious Lotus Harvest Season in Hoi An

The farmers we met in these fields near Hoi An have been working their lotus farms since the end of the 1970s. The area has been a hub of lotus production in the decades since.

in Vietnam

[Photos] An Enchanting Hue and Da Nang in 1967 Captured by Winfield Parks

Travel back to a time when drones were just airplanes.

in Travel

How Quy Nhon's Old Cemetery Slowly Expands up Vung Chua Mountain

​You might miss it if you were driving past, but once you walk down a small hẻm off Quy Nhon’s main Tay Son Street, the massive cemetery sprawls in all directions. 

in Culture

Inside the Extravaganza Using Literature to Highlight Hoi An History

Directed by writer Nguyễn Quang Vinh, “Hội An Show – Gratitude” was launched last month in the central Vietnam town. It featured 150 artists portraying the history of the ancient town via stories of H...

in Vietnam Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Nha Trang's 22-Year-Old Bánh Canh Cá Sings the Praises of the Sea

Traveling in Nha Trang wouldn't be complete without tasting this delicious bowl of bánh canh which makes you enjoy eating almost every part of the fish, from its meat to its organs.

in Culture

Hue to Pilot Reintroducing Home Economics Into High School Curriculum

Starting from the next school year, some highschoolers in Hue might have an opportunity to learn how to cook Hue cuisine and other essential life skills.

in Vietnam

Into the Storm: A Journey Into Quang Binh's Typhoon-Battered Communities

October was a month of unceasing devastation and pain for central Vietnam. It started with unprecedented downpours; then consecutive typhoons hit; and sudden landslides turned deadly fast. A few weeks...

in Vietnam

October Natural Disasters Leave 235 Dead or Missing, Cost Vietnam $730m: Report

As October comes to an end, Vietnam’s central region is reckoning with major devastation and fatalities.

in Vietnam

New Storm Goni Heads for Vietnam After Battering Philippines

More trouble is on the way for storm-weary central Vietnam.

in Vietnam

In Storm Molave's Wake, Rescue Efforts Continue for Landslide, Boat Sinking Victims

Damage from the powerful typhoon is still being assessed, while rescue efforts continue.

in Architecture

[Photos] Vinh House Brings a Slice of the Countryside to Its Urban Neighborhood

Instead of a typical tube house, architects turned this lot in urban Vinh into a rustic home reminiscent of the countryside.

in Vietnam

Ahead of the Year's Most Powerful Storm, Central Vietnam Evacuates, Sets Curfew

Provinces along the southern coast of central Vietnam are in a rush to make final preparations today ahead of a major typhoon that will make landfall tomorrow.

in Podcast

Saigoneer Podcast: Central Vietnam Floods; Sustainable Fashion Designer Lê Ngọc Hà Thu

Our latest episode is available now!

in Vietnam

As Storm No. 8 Dissipates, Vietnam Braces for a Potentially Destructive No. 9

Central Vietnam ơi, beware.

in Vietnam

Vietnam PM Approves Disaster Aid of $4.3m, 1,000 Tons of Rice for Worst-Hit Provinces

After days of being battered by adverse weather conditions, provinces in central Vietnam need all the help they can get, financial and otherwise.

in Vietnam

Yet Another Typhoon, Storm Saudel, Is Heading to Vietnam This Weekend

Within the last few weeks, Vietnam has been hit by consecutive storms, and the extreme weather conditions aren't showing any sign of stopping soon.

in Vietnam

As Downpours Continue in Central Vietnam, Landslides Emerge as Deadliest Threat

Communities across the central coast of Vietnam are going through one of the most challenging, widespread natural disasters in recent history.

in Vietnam

18 Dead, 14 Missing as Extended Rain, Flash Floods Batter Central Vietnam

After days of unprecedented heavy downpours, the arrival of Storm Linfa added insult to injury in an already-battered central Vietnam.

in Travel

[Photos] A Sweltering Day on a Ninh Thuan Salt Field

Ever wonder where your salt comes from?

in Architecture

[Photos] Hue's 'Lotus House' Makes Wheelchair-Friendly Design Its Focal Point

Apart from its lotus-inspired motifs and clean contemporary elements, Lotus House in Hue is also special as a rare example of Vietnamese architectural design that takes into consideration the needs of...

in Travel

[Video] Travelogue Captures Quotidian Life in Northern and Central Vietnam

Oscillating between wide-angle scenes and the more close-up views of everyday people's interactions, the video is an ode to the country’s beauty.

in Vietnam

Vietnam Still Has 800,000 Tons of Unexploded Ordnance, Labor Ministry Says

Explosive remnants from the Second Indochina War continue to haunt livelihoods.

Thi Nguyen

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gem: Bún Cá Sứa With a Stock That Tastes Like the Ocean

A friend once told me that Saigon is a place that makes you feel like you can travel anywhere.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Bánh Đập Dập, an Indelible Reminder of Vietnam's Austere Eras

Although stories, photographs and artifacts may allow a child to visualize their parents’ childhood, these couriers of memory distinctively belong to the former generation and remain locked in the pas...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The 'Stink' of Bún Mắm Nêm Is My Childhood Aroma

Every time I depart from Vietnam to study abroad or travel, on the way to Tan Son Nhat International Airport I stop by the Bau Cat area in Tan Binh to stuff myself with at least two bowls of bún mắm n...