Saigoneer Getaways - Saigoneer

Waterfalls, Langur, Oysters and Abandoned Colonial Villas: A Lăng Cô Getaway

2025-11-28T11:05:00+07:00

What lies between Đà Nẵng and Huế?

These two can’t-miss tourism destinations cater to a wide range of visitors thanks to their many cultural, natural, culinary and entertainment splendors. The roughly 90 kilometers between the two, however, is often considered merely a distance to traverse. Saigoneer discovered, however, that the area, with Lăng Cô as the general center, holds untold splendors that demand a visit.

Cause for Pause on the Ocean Cloud Pass

A mere 48 minutes after we exited Đà Nẵng's airport, we were in the clouds. Praised by international roadsters like Top Gear, the Hải Vân Pass provides stunning views of the city and its iconic bay nearly 500 meters below. You’ll certainly want to get out to snap a few photos, but you should plan to linger for a while to explore and reflect upon its centuries of strategic importance.

Translating to “ocean cloud pass” in reference to the mist that frequently collects in the crux of the Trường Sơn Mountains, the Hải Vân Pass served as a national border numerous times. It represented the southernmost point of the Hán empire in the first century as well as the divide between the Đại Việt and Champa in the 14th Century. Significant battles were also waged there during the war of resistance against the French.

Today, the Hải Vân Pass is a peaceful place to stretch one’s legs, take selfies, have some coffee and reflect on distant empires as presented in the reconstructed Hải Vân Gate originally built by Emperor Minh Mạng. Reading the information contained, it’s flabbergasting to imagine how this region could be traversed before piston and coal power, battery and GPS.

The Hải Vân Pass also offers arguably the best train views in Vietnam. With windows looking out at the countryside, cliffs and coastline, unobstructed by highways or billboards, you can soak in the sheer immensity of the nation’s natural beauty. Moreover, a newly opened Heritage Car operated by Vietnam Railways Corporation on the Reunification Express Line accentuates the scenery with cultural warmth in the compartments. Traditional music and regional specialties like bánh ít transform the trip from simple transportation into a true journey. Designated as HD1/2 and HD3/4, the twice-daily trains are very much worth looking for and planning your travel around.

The Town that Oysters Built

100 years ago, if anyone spoke of Lăng Cô, it was likely in relation to the Nguyễn dynasty. In 1919, Emperor Khải Định built a summer palace beside the calm bay swaddled between sloping mountains fifty-some kilometers south of the Imperial Palace in Huế. Reflective of a trait that’s been sadly abandoned by today’s world leaders, he admired poetry and expressed his appreciation, for the regions serenity in a poem written on the since-burned down summer palace, that reads in part: “Looking towards the mountain, one sees strange clouds rising from cliffs, like fairies dancing in the mountains; looking down at the water, the clear wind drives the waves like thousands of returning horses.”

Nowadays, if people stop in Lăng Cô, a town of about 12,000 people, it's often to enjoy fresh oysters at reasonable, countryside prices. While it is near the coast, the shellfish’s notoriety is thanks to rather recent ingenuity. A man born and raised in the town explained to us that about a decade ago, a resident noticed an oyster growing in the lagoon on a discarded tire. On a hunch, he proceeded to collect and sink a great number of old motorbike tires. A few years later, he had made a small fortune in oysters and also inspired many of his neighbors to do the same. While the town has since cleaned up the operations, banning the use of polluting trash, the industry has taken hold with more sustainable practices.

Beyond the oysters, industry in the area is developing rapidly with government support. While driving around, we saw a number of materials factories that take advantage of the Chân Mây Port. There are even groves of trees planted specifically for harvesting to make high-quality paper for export. Amidst the rapid development, some rhythms remain the same, however, particularly before sunrise in the fishing villages. Making a stop to Cảnh Dương fishing village allowed us to observe how hard work can complement a carefree attitude as well as gracious invitations to watch the steady routines of casting nets, cleaning traps and drying fish in the sun.

Temples, Endangered Primates, and Forgotten Villas

Venturing further north, we abandoned the paltry preoccupations of humanity: the lust for baubles and tawdry, transient praise. The bridge that crossed the reservoir to Trúc Lâm Bạch Mã monastery had washed away years ago, so we reached the Central region’s first place of Buddhist worship via boat. The simple motor’s putt-putt-putt gave way to temple bells as we arrived. Cloaked in serenity and the subtle scent of burning incense Trúc Lâm Bạch Mã is a functional monastery that attracts devotees who follow the Buddha’s teachings as supported by the offerings of people in the area. Free to walk the sprawling grounds and appreciate the peaceful atmosphere, it offers a nice respite on the drive and also a chance to assess the importance of our human actions and motivations.

Such soul searching makes sight of an endangered species all the more profound. What value is the life of a single human, one of more than eight billion, when compared to a red-shanked douc langur, of which there are estimated to be fewer than 3,000 left in the wild? We were blessed to see an entire family of these incredibly calm primates on the steep road up the mountain in Bạch Mã National Park.

Even if you aren’t lucky enough to spot wildlife that includes red-shanked douc langur, oriental pheasants, and giant earthworms, Bạch Mã, one of Vietnam’s many slept-on national parks, provides a rare opportunity to commune with nature. Enormous trees covered in vines canopy the many paths that slither up and down the mountain. During the dry season, adventurous hikers wearing good shoes can travel along streams that eventually constitute the Perfume River. A series of impressive waterfalls cascade against granite rocks along the walk that occasionally requires hand ropes and leaping across stones. A particularly panoramic outlook reminds city dwellers of the natural grandeur that dwarfs our steel and concrete.

There is, however, beauty in construction within Bạch Mã. In response to the elevation’s cool climate, in the 1930s, the French established a retreat for their colonial officials. A total of 137 villas were built with infrastructure to support the vacation town, including a hospital, post office, market, swimming pool, and tennis courts. We were shocked by the immensity of a location that we’ve never heard of. You can explore many of the crumbling structures whose sturdy build and materials allow them surprising permanence. While having lunch in one particularly well-kept building, you can reflect on the exploitation and colonial abuse required to transport an entire village up the side of a mountain. A clearing at the park’s highest mountain peak provides historical information, including activities in the area during the American War, with an optimistic look towards enduring peace.

Perhaps lush mountains with temperate air alongside rushing waterfalls with a dollop of historical misery isn’t your aesthetic, though. If you continue traveling north, you’ll reach Rú Chá forest right outside of Huế. We arrived at midday with the sun snarling down with ill intentions and thus didn’t stay too long, the entire time wishing we were those water buffalo wallowing in a mudpond. However, a dawn or dusk visit would be quite enjoyable. Quiet paths through mangroves, a small temple, and an observation tower would all allow one to slow their pace

Two Options to Best Savor the Region

By now, I hope you share our conclusion that the land between Đà Nẵng and Huế deserves your time and attention. But what is the best way? You could surely stop at some of the above locations while driving between the cities, as many do, or even as part of a longer road trip. But such a rushed itinerary would not do the region justice. We were thus quite thankful that our adventuring included a stay at Banyan Tree and Angsana just 20 minutes from Lăng Cô town.

Angsana (left) and Banyan Tree (right).

Both Angsana, which caters to groups and family vacations, and Banyan Tree, which provides a more exclusive stay, of course, achieve the basics for serving as a homebase for exploration: clean, quiet, and comfortable rooms; pools, beach, and entertainment options; and delicious food that spans regions and atmospheres. The hotels can also arrange transportation, guides, and logistics, as well as forays into Đà Nẵng and Huế, and other sites, including Mỹ Sơn. Most importantly, however, is that they are actively working to preserve the region. Employing and uplifting local populations, they’ve been instrumental in providing financial and rhetorical resources to elevate the people, culture, and nature of the area so it can be cherished and protected.

It’s difficult to recommend that any traveler completely skip Đà Nẵng and Huế, especially if they’ve never been before. However, I’ll be so bold as to say that if you do plan to travel to one, you must reserve ample time for Lăng Cô. Hike in Bạch Mã, take a few deep breaths at Trúc Lâm Bạch Mã, eat a plate of oysters in town after observing the fisherman at dawn, and then spend a night or three pampering yourself at Banyan Tree or Angsana. Doing so isn’t just a great vacation; it’s proof that sometimes overlooked destinations have the most to offer.

Tà Năng, One of Vietnam’s Most Beautiful Trails and Best-Kept Secrets

2025-07-07T07:00:00+07:00

Whether we choose to participate or not, most of us are fascinated by Vietnam’s motorbike culture.

The pace, the innovative spirit, and the casualness of people who perform in each day’s tightly choreographed traffic dances make for a thrilling phenomenon. So you can imagine my enchantment when I discovered what motorbike culture looks like on Tà Năng Mountain and the hills of Lâm Đồng Province. It takes about a six-hour drive and half a day’s hike from Saigon to reach the entrance to this other “planet.” It’s a place that makes me feel a million miles away from any city, and comfortably isolated from the rest of the world. And once you’re there, it’s easy to see why the people that know it are always going back.

“It doesn’t happen often that you stumble upon one of those great fleeting things — be it a place, a group, or a tradition — before it becomes a ‘was.’ Hiking Tà Năng is one of those very rare things. Don’t wait, because as we all know, a thing so great surely doesn’t last forever.”

The men and motos of Tà Năng

The complete Tà Năng-Phan Dũng trail stretches more than 55 kilometers across the hilltops and valleys of three provinces: Lâm Đồng, Ninh Thuận, and Bình Thuận. People have been walking these ridges forever, so it was inevitable that eventually Vietnam’s famous motorbikes would make it to the mountains too.

Xe độ are often needed to scale the rough textures of Tà Năng.

The unique machines that ride over these ridges are called xe đi rừng, meaning “motorbikes used in the forest,” or xe độ, which translates to “motorbike that’s been changed from the manufacturer version,” a hint at their distinguishable nature. The young men who drive them are known as người khuân vác or “porters,” with their custom rigs doubling as convenient — and, might I add, super slick — nicknames for the exclusive group.

As with so many good things, the longer you peer at these amazing machines, the more you see. Some of my favorite features were the free and detached stick-for-kick-stand strategy that seemed to be invariably adopted, the custom welded made-to-size holders and racks that carry bottles of engine fluids and extra gas, and the complete (although initially subtle) and utter lack of foot...anything. Eventually you’ll notice the chain on the rear wheel and the extra sets of shocks. After having the pleasure of riding as the third of three passengers on one of these skeleton rigs as it ripped over a flat portion of trail, I surmise they “beefed up” the engines as well.

One of the handful of trail vendors, a lovely man named Anh Heo, shared that anyone could buy a basic version of one of the bikes for a reasonable price, but the porters mostly build and customize their own. One bike had a variety of its parts painted green to match its green shocks, while another had the skinniest exhaust pipe I have ever seen; no more than a couple centimeters wide all the way down.

As it turns out, not all porters are transporting camping supplies — consider the cooler that resembles the ones you see all over Saigon, containing cold soda, water, and beer strapped to the back of Anh Heo’s rather simple-looking bike. He drives 40 kilometers a day to sell cold beverages to weary hikers along the trail.

Yes, that’s right! That means, as you trek into this magical land, around each bend or at the top of a long climb, there very well may be ice-cold beer waiting for purchase. As soon as the initial excitement wore off, I giggled that I could be shocked at all. We are in Vietnam after all, “cold beer can be delivered anywhere,” my friend graciously reminded me. I should have been shocked he hadn’t found us sooner.

Another whole new world

As you trek deeper down the Tà Năng-Phan Dũng trail, the landscape starts to unwrap itself. Lowlands become sparsely covered hilltops covered in patches of young forest or dotted with a lone tree. Eventually, the route took us through a bamboo forest and up the back of a long, last, steep hill. And as we cleared the treeline and came around the side of the giant bulbous mound of earth we had just scaled, the scene and sky grew before our eyes. We had arrived, safely transported to another world.

Boldly and graciously, the landscape evolves with the seasons here. The sparsely camouflaged ridges are sometimes covered in patches of dense, deep green, and sometimes they are bald. Underneath the ground growth, the hills are covered in a type of basaltic soil that, when pounded by Vietnam’s iconic rains, turns a vibrant orangey-tan, gets thick and slick and dries like potter’s clay.

By the time you come up to your second or third incline, you would notice the deep grooves the machines cut into the side of each pitch, and it becomes clear why the bikes are as rugged and souped-up as they are. Their revving motors and altered anatomies produce a loud chug-chug-chug that announces their arrival before they can be seen. And then watching them is a joy: chain suddenly crucial, power plainly obvious, operator’s command of the situation — relaxed and masterful. Sometimes an extra passenger sits atop the cargo, sometimes three men straddle the long frame, but they always smiles; half-smoked cigarettes occupy the corners of their mouths.

Chang Adventure

Both of my trips were made possible through the guidance and support of the enthusiastic trekking group, Chang Adventure, a team of young, local nature lovers who have made a business out of taking fellow hikers on unique, remote adventures throughout the central and southern regions of Vietnam. With an everything-included model, they make it easy for hikers to sign up and go; no equipment or extensive preparation necessary.

Chang Adventure's commitment to sustainability further sets them apart. Each customer who signs up for one of their treks donates five trees to the Forest Garden Project, a project dedicated to respecting, reforesting, and educating about Vietnam’s Central Highlands, in partnership with local farmers.

Since the organizers opt to keep group numbers small and treat all their guests as old friends, they are able to create an instant and intimate comradery within their teams, an aspect that makes it hard not to fall into new, fast friendships. The hike will get you on your first trip, but the people and the moments this experience fosters will keep you coming back.

A sunrise worth going back for

I woke up as the sky was already changing. My body was moving before my brain caught up. I crawled out of my tent, put on my shoes, and roused my friends. As I pulled myself up and out into the dawn air, the scene beyond our little mound of planet gobbled me up from the top down. I closed my eyes and let myself to be taken away by the beauty of what was unfolding before me. Behind my lids lay a background of dusty, lavender blue, streaked with neon pink and fire bursts of orange.

The air was cool but not cold, the best word for it is probably “fresh,” a word we rarely get to use when describing the weather in southern Vietnam. With my eyes shut, I allowed myself to tune into the gentle choir of different songs — monkeys, cicadas, and a chorus of bird calls. Each note was unique and vibrant against the soft quiet of dawn. I felt a hand on my shoulder. It brought me back to my feet, bare on the wild grass, still dewy from the night.

Voices and the sounds of breakfast started to fade in against the jungle’s pleasant cacophony. I opened my eyes and in front of me was an expansive valley of receding hills smothered in layers of whipped, white morning mist. Each row a deeper shade of blue-ish gray; each row an extra barrier between us and the real world. It took us both an extra beat before we bid adieu to the moment and turned back towards the smell of fresh campfire-brewed coffee.

If this moment appeals to you, find Chang Adventure and sign up for their next trek. Hồng Trang, who often uses the English name Kate, one of the founding members, and the rest of the crew are even greater gems than the utterly breathtaking vistas they will lead you too. It doesn’t happen often that you stumble upon one of those great fleeting things — be it a place, a group, or a tradition — before it becomes a “was.” And in my humble opinion, hiking Tà Năng is one of those very rare things. Don’t wait, because as we all know, a thing so great surely doesn’t last forever.

This article was originally published in 2022.

Abundant Nature, Small-Town Charms and Unexpected Luxury in Phú Yên

2024-07-01T14:26:00+07:00

With a total population hardly larger than some Saigon districts and limited tourism development, Phú Yên province doesn’t get much consideration when people are planning their next vacation.

Photo by Frederik Wissink.

Such overlook is a great shame, however, as the province features a spectacular stretch of beaches beset by mountains and untrammeled nature as well as friendly folk eager to share charming traditions. The food is fabulous as well.

View of the sea and Zannier Hotels Bãi San Hô. Photo by Frederik Wissink.

The Routes to Phú Yên are Half the Pleasure

Photo by Frederik Wissink.

530km by road from Saigon, directly below Bình Định and to the east of Gia Lai and Đắk Lắk, the coastal province takes some time to reach. Saigoneer will forever advocate time on the train, and the North-South railway (Reunification Express) stops in Phú Yên. Idyllic rice fields, placid ocean overlooks and imposing mountains in the distance: the trip is an endless series of scenic delights. However, the ride from Saigon to Tuy Hòa station lasts between nine and ten and a half hours, making it a challenge for shorter vacations. Thus, direct flights to Bình Định are a great option.

Photo by Saigoneer.

Phù Cát airport rests 30km outside Quy Nhơn, but you will need to pass through the city en route to Phú Yên. In Saigoneer’s experience, it's highly worthwhile to have some extra time in your schedule to spend in and around the gem of a city. One of the nation’s best history museums; imposing Chăm towers reminding visitors that a foreign empire once claimed southern Vietnam; a touching monument to a brilliantly bizarre poet held within a surreal leprosy colony filled with remarkable architecture; and a new science museum that is particularly thrilling for families are all worthy of a visit.

Photos by Saigoneer.

When you finally do pass from Bình Định into Phú Yên, you might not be aware. The transition occurs in a rural area that typifies the entire province. Small fishing villages and idyllic rice and vegetable fields surrounding shrimp ponds occupy the spaces between small towns and villages. The existential crisis of tradition and modernity metaphorically exemplified by the battle between tạp hóa and foreign convenience stores, feels decades away in Phú Yên.

Nature Flourishing in Every Direction

From the reflections of con cò gliding across flooded rice paddies and the haunting cries of thạch sùng at midnight to colorful blooms of wildflowers rioting freely on cliffs and forests, rural nature is Phú Yên’s greatest gift.

Photo by Adaras Blogazine.

Phú Yên’s relative isolation and sparse population should be particularly welcome by beach lovers. The vast stretches of empty sand cloistered by rocky outcroppings allow for calm sunbathing and vigorous backstrokes alike. Depending on which part of the province you venture to, there are different beaches to access, with lesser-known ones available via the advice of locals. One of our favorites is undoubtedly Hòn Yến. Every summer, favorable tides transform the coral reefs into a stunning landscape that calls into question whether forests should be most associated with land or sea.

Photos by Trương Hoài Vũ for Saigoneer.

Fresh Seafood and Some More Peculiar Dishes

In addition to providing beachgoers with picturesque views, the ocean has helped shape Phú Yên’s cuisine. A bevy of fresh seafood is available throughout the region, with a particular focus on tuna. Because many of the fishermen that go deep into the sea to catch these giant fish depart from the region, tuna is found in restaurants and markets and even frozen in convenient “to go” packaging at thePhù Cát airport. Tuna’s meaty, tough-textured eyes are particularly treasured and sold fresh at restaurants.

Photo of bánh hỏi cháo lòng by Saigoneer.

While giant tuna eyes may sound unusual, Phú Yên’s most unique dish is probably chả dông. Resembling a fried spring roll, you might find anywhere in the country, the meat inside the crispy rice paper wrapping is harvested from wild monitor lizards during their late spring through early summer breeding season. The subtly smoky, gamey reptile flavors blend into the local herbs, vegetables and fish sauce. Fish sauce is also traditionally used in Phú Yên for grilled corn, another twist on a nationwide dish. And even if you consider tuna eyes and lizard flesh too adventurous, there are many new dishes to experience, such as bánh hỏi cháo lòng, which pairs porridge with delicate rice noodle mats.

Photo by Zannier Hotels Bãi San Hô.

Trendy fusion spots, familiar chains and upscale restaurants are largely non-existent in the province, so meals reinforce Saigoneer’s beliefs that the best food is often served at the most unassuming venues. From market-adjacent mom-and-pop stalls to humble seafood joints along coastal roads, the freshness and careful attention to each dish cannot be surpassed.

Exploring Rural Charms and Timeless Industries

Photos by Frederik Wissink.

Instead of chintzy theme parks and overpriced attractions, Phú Yên contains more valuable opportunities to observe unique traditions and experience the generosity of locals who are not hardened to the transactional qualities of the tourism industry. Simply getting out and driving around the surroundings or strolling through towns and markets often yields invitations to witness small industries such as making fishing traps from wood foraged from nearby forests and massive flats of drying salt that resemble an impossible gathering of stars in the night sky.

Photos of salt fields by Frederik Wissink for Zannier Hotels.

A highlight of a recent Saigoneer trip included visiting a home that had perfected a family recipe for producing rice paper. Explaining each step before inviting us to sit beside the fire stoked with rice fibers and trying it ourselves revealed the attention paid to the simplest items we take for granted on a daily basis.

Photos by Ash James.

A World-Class Hotel that Offers Immersion into Phú Yên's Charms

Photo by Zannier Hotels Bãi San Hô.

Given Phú Yên’s rural charms, you could reasonably assume all available lodgings would be local and basic. However, the province is home to a world-class hotel that provides unparalleled service and amenities that help one experience the area. Needing no introduction amongst luxury hotel enthusiasts, Zannier Hotels Bãi San Hô occupies 245-acres of pristine nature and beachfront on a secluded peninsula in central Phú Yên. 73 free-standing villas pays homage to the region’s early cultural aesthetics with different architecutral legacies embraced for views of verdant rice paddy fields, majestic hilltops or a mile-long stretch of white sand beach. The property's sprawling forests filled with birds and butterflies, panoramic views of the ocean, and generous staff all help make it simply one of the most impressive and enjoyable hotels Saigoneer has ever visited in Vietnam.

Photos by James Campbell (left) and Frederik Wissink (right).

But more than just a place to pamper one’s senses, Zannier Hotels Bãi San Hô helps you get a true feel for the area. The on-site restaurant, for example, serves local specialties that take advantage of freshly caught seafood, while experienced chefs can help you gather ingredients from the on-site organic garden to learn how to make local dishes. Watersport equipment and bicycles are available to rent and a calming spa cater to days of rest and wellness one should intersperse with adventures off the property. A hiking trail just beyond the pool leads to phenomenal views before ambling down into a small village. The hotel also offers guided excursions further into the area to witness the locals making rice paper and fish traps and can arrange a meal in a home in a floating community. A stay at Zannier Hotels Bãi San Hô is thus a great way to balance desires for pampering oneself with responsible and intimate discovery of people and lifestyles.

Photos by Frederik Wissink.

There is no telling precisely how long Phú Yên will retain its rustic charms and awe-shucks sensibilities. As developers arrive to transform the coast with resorts and industry develops in the interior, the natural serenity will slowly slip away. But for now, it remains a wondrously calm area for wistful jaunts to make sepia-toned memories.

[Top image by Frederik Wissink for Zannier Hotels]

Zannier Hotels Bãi San Hô's website

Zannier Hotels Bãi San Hô's email

(+84) 0 297 392 7777

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A Day Exploring the Diverse Environs of Hồ Tràm

2023-10-10T13:00:00+07:00

Living in Saigon has plenty of perks, but generally speaking fresh air, relaxation and meandering paths aren’t among them and Saigoneers are constantly looking for opportunities to leave the city for reinvigoration. Vietnam has plenty of options if you’re willing to hop on a plane or go for a long drive, but who doesn’t like shorter and less stressful travel options so you can spend your time unwinding?

Though we’ve long argued that Vũng Tàu is an underrated neighbor, there’s another location just over 2 hours from Saigon that quietly offers plenty of places to explore: Hồ Tràm

Convenient accommodations abound

When making travel plans it’s always a solid idea to lock down a place to stay ahead of time. Among the most convenient options in the area is The Grand Ho Tram, given its bounty of entertainment and food options. One would likely be perfectly content spending the entire weekend without leaving the resort, but for those who want to take a day to drive along the coast and check out nearby attractions, there are more options than one might imagine.

About 10km from Hồ Tràm is the sleepy town of Bưng Riềng for example, within which lies the church of Giáo Xứ Bông Trang. Though the current structure was built around 2014, the parish was established in 1976 when residents of Saigon’s Thủ Đức district relocated to the area. Perhaps not as impressive as some other churches in Vietnam, the grounds are pleasant to walk in and there are some lovely religious reliefs on its walls.

Upon leaving Giáo Xứ Bông Trang, make your way through a sea of dragon fruit plantations until you reach Hồ Bông Trang. Clearly, a favorite for local fishermen, this body of water’s banks are ripe for exploration. One Google review of the lake mentioned camping was possible, though take that with a grain of salt, as we didn’t notice any tents pitched when we visited.

From here, take a turn towards the bizarre at Đồi Cừu Sinh Thái Bưng Riềng. Defying classification, it's a mix of zoo, cafe, Instagram set, rideless amusement park and vintage electronics museum, all situated amidst a series of artificial canals and ponds spanned by bridges of many varieties. Parts are very kid-friendly while others are almost unsafe for adults. You will be concurrently confused and entertained on your visit here, delighted and perplexed by its existence.

Seafood feasts on a budget

By the time you depart, you’ll likely need to regain some sanity and refuel with some local delicacies. A visit to one of the seafood eateries along a quaint pedestrian street near the ocean offers plenty of crustaceans, mollusks and fish to choose from, all cooked in your preferred style. We picked Hải Sản Mỹ Lệ among the many options as my companion had previously patronized the establishment and had high praise for their cơm chiên hải sản. Though groups of tourists emptied out of SUVs to snatch up high-priced lobsters and crabs by the dozens, presumably to bring back to Saigon to prepare seafood feasts, there are lower-cost items that hit the spot, particularly when washed down with a few bottles of Sài Gòn Xanh.

Surf and sand in semi-seclusion

After eating, some beach time is in order and a number of pseudo-public/private ocean fronts are located in the area where groups of young folks have picnics, climb the boulders that litter the shoreline and swim in the sea.

After a day on the road and in the sun, The Grand Ho Tram offers plenty of ways to refresh and unwind: a dip into one of the eight pools or a visit to the spa allows for some much-needed relaxation. Before heading back to reality, one would be remiss not to take advantage of the resort's 16 restaurants that offer everything from dim sum to Tomahawk steaks to fresh lobsters; bars that serve up sunset cocktails with live music and unique special events and a Greg Norman-designed golf course that draws crowds from across southeast Asia.

Grand Ho Tram's website

Grand Ho Tram's Facebook Page

Grand Ho Tram's Email

1800 588 801

Grand Ho Tram | Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc District, Ba Ria Vung Tau Province

On Japan’s Shonan Coastline, a Wintry Vista of Mount Fuji

2023-10-06T11:00:00+07:00

It was my first trip to Zushi Beach and the sun was beginning to set.

Summertime brashness

Across the bay, the hazy mountain range that curved along the opposing shore was fading from view. Peaks dominated the skyline, stretching beyond sight. As they darkened, something even bigger appeared behind them; it was just half a silhouette, yet a colossal presence that dwarfed everything else in sight. A few minutes later, the light had gone and I wondered if I had just imagined it all.

I have since witnessed the same spectacle on numerous occasions and learned that, despite its breathtaking size, Mount Fuji is frustratingly elusive during the summer months. It seems like every time you think it’s finally about to emerge in full view, it’s suddenly lost to fading light or a fresh layer of mist.

This stretch of Shonan's coastline is notorious for its summer party atmosphere. From July to September, rows of pop-up bars appear along the shore and throngs of people flood down from Tokyo, Yokohama and Kawasaki. Bands play J-pop on temporary stages and all through the day, the beaches are packed with people. Even after dark, the more popular stretches are often dotted with groups of drinkers that play in the shallows or let off small, whimpering fireworks.

Pastel light reflecting off the ocean.

The quietude of winter

It was only after a spur-of-the-moment trip last December that I realized how beautiful the view from the beach actually is. Previously smothered in a thick haze, the mountains were now crisp and jagged. And Fuji, which had been nothing more than a shadow, was now clearly defined. I could see the gradations of its ridges, follow small clouds moving across its face, and even trace snow-filled ravines that clawed downward from its peak.

“There’s a special atmosphere on the beaches in winter. Instead of bars and partygoers, couples sit hand-in-hand, taking in the silence and watching pastel light reflect off the ocean.”

There’s a special atmosphere on the beaches in winter, particularly if you’ve experienced the party vibe during the peak summer months. This feeling is as much to do with the absence of human activity as to how people spend their time here during winter. Hordes of people playing at the water’s edge are replaced by surfers out in the deep, all waiting for a perfect wave. Instead of bars and partygoers, couples sit hand-in-hand, taking in the silence and watching pastel light reflect off the ocean.

Seaweed on the shore.

Each morning, I would walk along near-deserted Yuigahama beach, dip my feet into the freezing water and watch surfers brave the cold. At the end of each day, I watched the sunset from Zushi Beach, before returning home after a stop at one of the many small bathhouses that dot the side streets of Kamakura.

On my final morning, I met Obe, a university student who often drives down from central Tokyo before sunrise to catch the early waves. “Are you never distracted by the view?” I asked him. He shook his head, “Not really. Maybe when I first started coming here, but it’s normal for me now. Sometimes, though, I’ll sit on the beach after surfing and think ‘Wow. That’s really beautiful’.”

The area is accessible by train from central Tokyo.

“I like the summer parties,” Obe continued. “The waves are better around typhoon season — maybe August or September. But yeah, it’s a special place in the winter. A lot more peaceful. A lot more relaxed. You have the view but it’s also the atmosphere on the beaches. The crowds are gone and the people are friendlier.”

Obe picked up his board and waded back out into the sea. He struggled with the unseasonably strong surf and was thrown off his board before falling silently into the waves. Behind me, I could just make out the sound of a man struggling to control his kite in the wind. Two girls were walking along the shore, inspecting shells that had washed up. Above it all, in the distance, Fuji was emerging from the clouds; another winter’s day at the beach had quietly come to life.

This article was originally published on Urbanist Hanoi in 2018.

Finding Solace in the Placid Water of Trị An Lake as a City Dweller

2023-09-29T11:00:00+07:00

I took a deep breath, realizing that I was suspended in the midpoint of everything, above the calm, glassy surface of Trị An Lake and beneath the vast, enveloping azure sky that blanketed Mã Đà forest.

Trị An Lake, the heart of Mã Đà

From the flow of the Đồng Nai river, Trị An lake was created as a reservoir for a hydroelectric power plant of the same name. The lake sprawls across hundreds of square kilometers, bordering multiple districts of Đồng Nai Province. Much of this landscape is dominated by the lush vegetation of the Mã Đà Forest. During the dryer months of the year, the area becomes more hospitable to visitors, luring travelers in search of a bit of serenity far from the city's clamor.

We packed our bags and left Saigon for one such sun-soaked weekend. After two hours breezing to Biên Hòa on the Hanoi Highway then National Route 1A, we meandered along an internal road adorned with bougainvillea before reaching our first gateway — a small offshoot of the Mã Đà forest. Concrete and white road markings gave way to rough, terracotta-colored dirt paths. Swirling dust kept pace with every twist of the steering wheel. After what felt like an endless journey through thickets of melaleuca, the sight of Trị An Lake gradually unfolded before our eyes.

It was hard to fathom that what was in front of us was human-engineered, its calm surface mirrored the unblemished sky, gleaming like a silken ribbon enveloping the surrounding terrain.

Take only photographs, leave only footprints

Lành Farm, our lodging for the stay, is a farmstay nestled by the shores of Trị An. Lành Farm feels both delightfully spacious and wonderfully snug. It feels snug because the area is neatly confined to a few small thatched huts and a communal area, with the kitchen seamlessly connecting to the main guest area. It feels spacious because Lành seems to meld with its surroundings: here, walls and other man-made structures that often separate us from the world are scarce; there's an abundance of light, open air, greenery, and winds that can be felt from wherever we sit.

“As a city dweller, I'd always associated nature with untamed wilderness. And yet, I was pleasantly surprised to discover that the nature here was remarkably gentle.”

Lành came into existence three years ago when Bình, the farm's owner, wanted to find a place where her family could “relish the experience of self-cultivation and personal growth through gardening, all while extending warm hospitality to friends and visitors.” To foster natural development, the meals here are prepared with ingredients directly harvested from the garden or procured locally, dishes (and people) are cleansed with biodegradable agents, and guests are kindly urged not to bring products encased in plastic packaging. Lành takes care of all things, so guests need only arrive and depart with a deep respect for nature, a carefree spirit, and a swimsuit.

As the midday sun softened, it was the perfect time to dive into the fresh waters of Trị An Lake. The lake sprawled expansively, its nearshore waters tinged with sandy hues, providing just the right depth for leisurely splashing and languid floating. Venturing further out into the lake, the water grew deeper and clearer, demanding vigilance even from seasoned swimmers. Either way, life jackets were required, it was better to not mess around and find out.

My colleague and I hopped onto a stand-up paddleboard (SUP) anchored on the sandy beach. Left, right, right, left — our rhythmic motions guided the board gracefully across the calm surface. We circled the lake without a specific destination in mind, occasionally engaging in friendly races with another boat, and at other times, just drifting aimlessly and leisurely. We soaked in the hidden wonders behind the curtain of trees, soft golden rays filtering through leaves, and the gentle sway of the forest to the wind.

When we chose to cease our paddling and let the boat float freely, my senses experienced a euphoric release — I felt every aspect of nature converging upon me, I heard the lullaby of waves caressing the hull, and I watched in awe as birds gracefully glided through the skies above.

In the late afternoon, we set up our tents and took a leisurely walk along the sandy beach before dinner. The gentle midday breezes had transformed into a slightly cooler evening wind. The last rays of the sun had painted the sky and the water with warm hues of orange, fiery red, and, finally, a serene purple. At a moment like this, guests could fly kites, strike picturesque poses for their Instagram feeds, finally revisit a long-neglected book, or simply sit in quiet contemplation, savoring nature’s own light show.

As night descended, artificial lights were kept to a minimum, adding an aura of enchantment to the atmosphere by the water. We gathered around a modest campfire to prepare the barbeque goodies provided by Lành. Each person had their assigned task, and the savory, smoky scent of grilled proteins and vegetables soon filled the air. The cool night of the forest enticed us to huddle closer to the comforting warmth of the fire. The campfire cast a cozy glow, creating a space for us to share remarkable life stories, forging a seemingly magical connection between us and nature, between us and each other.

Catching sunrise by the lake

If the early birds catch the worms, then those who rise early at Trị An are in for a spectacular morning show. Regrettably, I'm not one to leap out of bed at the crack of dawn; the sun had already climbed high while I was still in deep slumber.

The sunlight piercing through the tent finally woke me up. I leaned out of the door flap and beheld the vast expanse of the lake before me, its water still clear and serene like a mirror. I took in a deep breath of the morning air, untainted and infused with the fragrance of the forest, a rarity in the city where I live.

We started the day with a warm bowl of bún chả cá, soothing our hunger. Some chose to venture out on their own while others reclined on hammocks to bask in the pleasant sun and breeze. Then, under the guidance of a local boy, we rolled up our sleeves and headed out to collect ngao. These minute clams, resembling tiny buried treasures beneath the sand, were eagerly unearthed and handed over to the kitchen to serve as ingredients for lunch — introducing a fresh addition to Lành's menu while still adhering to its “homegrown” ethos.

Before our retreat, I used to have my doubts about this camping trip, when everyone discussed it. As a city dweller, I'd always associated nature with untamed wilderness. And yet, I was pleasantly surprised to discover that the nature here was remarkably gentle, enfolding me in its tender embrace, from the earth to the sky and the water. Consequently, as I return to the hectic pace of city life, I often find myself reminiscing about that weekend by Trị An Lake as a mental sanctuary. And for a moment in my mind, I am peacefully sitting on the lakeshore, bathing in golden sunlight at a place where doing nothing amounts to doing so much, where I feel inner peace blossom within me.

Just 12km From Huế, a Hidden Lake Welcomes You to a Night of Stargazing

2023-09-12T10:00:00+07:00

If you’ve been meaning to embark on a trip to escape from the chaos of daily life but aren’t quite keen to plunge straight into the wilderness, Huế might be the perfect next destination. The city center embodies calm, quietude and a sense of poetic beauty — these are all great qualities that have long drawn visitors to it, but not many are aware that there’s an entirely different side of Huế if one just takes a short ride away from the urban heartland alongside the Perfume River.

A detour into the unknown

Sơn Thọ Lake in Hương Trà Township was one rare gem that a friend from Huế introduced me to on my trip last March. The location wasn’t on my original itinerary, but it didn’t take much persuasion for me to immediately agree to check it out once I heard of the “verdant lake in the middle of a forest.”

The lake lies amid thick patches of vegetation in suburban Huế. On the drive in, past trees, vines and bushes, I tried to look for a sign or significant landmark for future visits, but I eventually gave up.

From central Huế, drive around 12 kilometers in the southwestern direction to get to Sơn Thọ. It wasn’t a trip for the faint-hearted, including stretches on dirt paths and sections in the middle of the jungle. If traveling without a well-versed local, you can follow Google Maps’ instructions to the Tomb of Emperor Gia Long, then ask around for directions to Hương Trà.

A scene of pastoral charm on the way to the lake.

The closer you get to the lake, the less inhabited the scenery will be, but in exchange, you can marvel at endless fields and a picturesque natural landscape. A crystal-clear sky, a golden sheen of sunlight coating the foliage, layers and layers of trees fade in and out at the horizon — everything blends together like an ancient ink-wash painting, wild and free of human touch. Every time my travel companion reminded me to get my phone ready, I knew that we were about to careen past a spectacular vista that would be impossible to describe with mere words

Sơn Thọ Lake is a natural water body, with clear and fresh water. It’s surrounded by mountains and hills.

Unlike Huế’s well-known tombs, the lake is not a popular tourist destination, and could probably remain that way due to its isolated location. A few cottages of local residents dot the lakeside, but none is engaged in the tourism industry. They welcomed us with lovely smiles and playful banter and agreed to ferry us across the lake with a pay-what-you-want fee.

“Getting to Sơn Thọ isn't a trip for the faint-hearted, including stretches on dirt paths and sections in the middle of the jungle.”

Camping under the stars

A visit to Sơn Thọ in the summer will reveal a lake bottom carpeted with clumps of moss after the water recedes. It’s easy to set up a campsite here as the lake is part of public land, not under any restrictions. Some local households have started stocking basic camping necessities to supply to camping groups should they forget anything.

The beginning of summer brought to the lakeside a few friend groups who also sought out the area’s pristine scenery to set up their tents. Camping here would undoubtedly be a fantastic experience, but to me, just merely lying on the bed of soft grass to admire the fluffs of clouds in the sky and listen to the rustles of the forest is already enough without requiring any complicated setup.

Had we ended our adventure at Sơn Thọ Lake there, I would have been eternally grateful to my impromptu “tour guide,” but the magical factor of our stay was kicked up a notch when dusk fell: it was the perfect time for stargazing. Sequestered from urban quarters and their resulting light pollution, the vicinity of the lake proved to be the perfect vantage point to behold the astronomical beauty of the galaxy above.

The night sky at Sơn Thọ.

Still, not everyone who comes here wishing to chase the stars will succeed. My friend explained that, to have a fruitful night-gazing trip at Sơn Thọ, seek out moonless, cloudless nights towards the end of summer. To capture the galaxy in all of its glory, one needs to stay up until (or wake up at) 2–3am and set up a camera capable of manual settings. A touch of patience, a bit of technical know-how, a tent, some snacks, and a small fire — these are the bare minimum in the production of spectacular night shots.

As I made my way back to Saigon, the land of clamorous urban noises, I found myself missing Huế and Sơn Thọ Lake a lot. Huế has always been a land of fascinating history and mythology that never fails to amaze visitors. If you have already experienced the contemplative side of the city’s temples and mausoleums, why not try out a different kind of serenity at Sơn Thọ Lake?

Hà Giang's Thôn Khun Is a Soothing Oasis for the World-Weary Traveler

2023-09-07T16:00:00+07:00

Located in the heart of a valley surrounded by verdant stretches of forest, the little hamlet of Khun retains much of its pristine natural charms. From the enigmatic beauty of the local Bó Mỳ Cave to babbling creeks, Khun is a must-visit destination during northern Vietnam’s sweltering summer season.

Khun is located in Bằng Lang Commune, 8 kilometers away from central Quang Bình District and 95 kilometers from Hà Giang City.

Compared to Hà Giang’s better-known localities, Khun has neither the majestic karst cliffs of Đồng Văn in the east nor Hoàng Su Phì’s terrace fields in the west. Khun, however, doesn’t host throngs of tourists, giving local areas a laid-back, easy demeanor that won’t overwhelm first-time travelers.

Khun is a sleepy hamlet at the foot of a mountain amidst the multitudes of green shades from the vegetation and endless paddy fields.

The humble hamlet, at its core, might seem like any village in the countryside, with stretches of rice fields, bamboo thickets, and stilt houses dotting the vista. Khun is gentle, tranquil, and calming like a maiden enjoying a perpetual slumber under the jungle canopy. This rustic simplicity tugs on the heartstrings of nature lovers like me. Arriving at Khun for just a moment, I found myself losing my grasp on the passage of time, dipping in and out of reality and the call to my past with childhood memories, their vivid colors and sounds.

Experiencing a day in Khun

Much of my time at Khun Hamlet was spent roaming about. I took long strolls on narrow, meandering paths along the edge of the fields, in between luxuriant bamboo bushes, and across crystal-clear brooks. Many stretches are still dirt paths. From afar, the routes into the hamlet seemed to be tiny threads tangled in the thick of the jungle. I made a conscious choice to walk as leisurely as possible to keep pace with the sleepy ambiance here, only stopping to enjoy a melody of hát then or mellow tính tẩu tune coming from uncertain corners of the village.

Palm fronds help to protect local farmers from the sun.

After finishing with the rice harvest, local residents move on to collecting peanuts.

Lychee is also a common crop in Khun.

Standing in the field amid the aroma of fresh hay, I watched puffs of cloud languidly inch past the sky before disintegrating into nothing. In a hurry, the sun sent the last few rays past the curtain of dusk before mellowing down behind the jungle. A lugubrious evening beckoned. Summer nights in Khun are often the time for sporadic bouts of rain. The deluge of water rushed onto the ground, forcefully shaking trees and flimsy structures. Throngs of amphibians began their loud opera sessions. The watery symphony brought me back to days spent in my hometown decades ago. I miss my hometown.

Pathways in Khun are often not paved.

When the morning came, Khun jolted awake. Once again, I phased out of slumber thanks to a cacophony of nature noises, the wilderness’ built-in alarm clock: the cock-a-doodle-doos of local roosters, the quacks of happy ducks, and the ballad of songbirds. I completely forgot to crane my arm to turn off my digital alarm clock like I always do while in the city. Early sun rays snuck in right beside my bed, and just outside the window, heavy clusters of ripe lychees enticed me to get up. Here, just existing and breathing air was enough to fill my being with a sense of palpable contentment.

“Arriving at Khun for just a moment, I found myself losing my grasp on the passage of time, dipping in and out of reality and the call to my past with childhood memories, their vivid colors and sounds.”

Khun is exceptionally green. The tiny hamlet seemed lost in the middle of a valley in between swaths of heritage forest. Greenness cornered the village from four sides. The entire hamlet spans 1,513 hectares, but 961 hectares are protective forest. The forest safeguards the land. The forest has long kept the livelihood of the people safe for generations. It helps maintain the clean atmosphere. Looking outside from the village, it’s not difficult to spot multitudes of palm-covered hills. The fans of palm fronds act like umbrellas for farmers on the field and for buffalo herders. Palms also provide materials for roofing. The people of Khun grow up under the protective shade of palm trees.

Much of my time in Khun was spent on walks through nature.

Exploring the Bó Mỳ Cave

The forest welcomed me into its embrace when I visited Khun. At times, I felt like an innocent doe eagerly gallivanting around the forest. Following the footsteps of local Khun residents, the forest path led me to a natural masterpiece that Mother Earth gifted the hamlet — Bó Mỳ Cave. The cavern spans 2 kilometers, with the highest stretch reaching 50 meters tall and the widest 20 meters across.

In the cave, an underground lake molds itself along the contours of the rock. This acts as a reservoir for many hamlets of the local commune. The water is crystal-clear and refreshing. Some parts of the lake can be quite deep, over 2 meters, so people installed wooden rafts for ease of crossing. This waterbody is also home to many a local delicacy, including cá dầm xanh, a type of regional carp. Because of this region, the cave is sometimes called the Dầm Xanh Cave.

Bó Mỳ Cave acts like a reservoir for many local hamlets.

Setting foot inside the cave felt like entering an alternate dimension. It was cool to the touch, as the inner temperature is almost always 5°C lower than outside. Just looking around, one can’t help being in awe of the nimble hands of Mother Nature, being able to create such a breathtaking sight.

The heart of the cavern featured numerous stalactites in whimsical shapes and forms, fashioned by the movements of wind and water. One might look like a bridge, another resembles a castle, a hand, or even a weaving silk sash hung across the wall. After hundreds or even thousands of years, mineral-rich water droplets fall from the ceiling to crystallize into exquisite stalagmites protruding from the ground. The cave formations rest in silence every day away from prying eyes, but when there are visitors, like me, they come alive with every brush of my flashlight, showcasing a fantastical elegance as if the setting of a magical tale.

There’s no light inside the cave, so explorers should remember to bring along light sources.

After my adventure inside the cave, I let my legs soak inside the outside stream’s chilly water. Perhaps sensing my fatigue, a school of fish excitedly started grazing my feet like nature’s own version of a pedicure. The shallow water outside the cave entrance is so translucent one can clearly spot the pebbles below. These gentle creeks come from the surrounding mountains, flowing in between rock formations to reach the field, nourishing rice fields and peanut plantations, and drenching local childhoods in their cooling water.

The creeks provide local children with a cooling source of freshwater, where they spend most of their summer days frolicking.

The tastes of the valley

Life in the heart of the mountains is unsurprisingly very peaceful. There are only 178 households in Khun, comprising four main ethnic groups — Tày, Dao, Nùng, and La Chí. Khun residents have retained the customs and traditions of their cultures. Along the base of the mountains, Tày people built stilt houses from local materials, especially palm fronds as roofing. Families gather beneath these structures every meal.

Here, I was treated to a diverse range of local dishes like colorful sticky rice, gỏi cá, and pickled meat, all prepared by my host. Right by the wooden walls, weavers are hard at work creating bamboo baskets and brocade textile. Every year, the Nùng community holds ceremonial offering events to express their gratitude to nature, the Dao community undertakes coming-of-age rituals for adolescent boys, while Lá Chí families use rice as a main offering for their own customs, and more.

A banquet platter prepared by Tày cooks.

The Bằng Lang Commune market is assembled every Saturday.

Fish salad, a local specialty.

The end of May brought along a golden hue to the valley. From above, the land is a mosaic of green, yellow, and ochre patches thanks to squares of ripening paddy. The harvest season also casts a joyful mood over the village. In the wind, the fragrance of harvest-ready grains and hay spread to every corner of the valley. Gaggles of children follow their parents to the field to play.

Gold rice paddy coats the valley during harvest season.

A traditional stilt house of the Tày people with a thatched roof.

Inside local houses, created from timber, bamboo, and palms.

Traces of tourism have just started showing up in Khun over the past few years supported by a small amount of homestay accommodations. There are no malls, amusement parks, or cafes; so much of the hamlet still retains its pastoral attributes — truly a place for nature-seekers hoping to escape the chaos of crowded cities.

Recreation, Relaxation and Adventure in Đà Nẵng

2022-09-21T17:16:23+07:00

Serene nature? Thrilling activities? Cultural insights? World-class cuisine and vibrant nightlife? Everyone has different priorities when going on vacation, and a few special places in Vietnam can accommodate almost all of them. Saigoneer recently traveled to Đà Nẵng to see how many different experiences we could find.

Within a few short hours of leaving Saigon’s claustrophobic streets, we were on a motorbike speeding down the coast eagerly embracing the change of scenery. The placid waters that curve alongside the city’s downtown immediately attract visitors’ attention and, given its multitude of convenient drink stalls, food, and music spots, you could be forgiven for not straying far from it during your stay. However, the Sơn Trà Peninsula in the north of the city is high on our list.

Exploring the city and forests

If you rent a manual-transmission bike, you’ll have the full splendors of the 60 square mile forested area at your fingertips. Cruising around its edges you’ll not only be privy to spectacular views of the ocean, the city and the mountains in the background, but also catch sight of the numerous secluded beaches that you can amble down to. If you take the exhilarating roads leading into the peninsula’s interior you can visit the Bàn Cờ peak with a photogenic statue of a chess player, the city’s stoic lighthouse and a staggering banyan forest that will have you questioning previous beliefs as to your favorite species of plant. And while we were not so lucky during this most recent trip, catching sight of the critically endangered red-shanked douc langur was the highlight of a previous trip.

On your drive around Sơn Trà you’ll notice a partially obscured sign for the Đồng Đình Museum. Contained within a gorgeous hilly plot of forest, it features a variety of artifacts from the area’s 20th-century fishing lifestyles, as well as cultural objects from ethnic minorities in the region. While it lacks written information, the museum and its coffee shop have recently gone viral for their Instagram opportunities. But if you’re looking for a more extensive museum experience and are already familiar with the well-known Cham Museum, you would be wise to visit the city’s Fine Art Museum. Hundreds of paintings, sculptures and carvings reflective of the region’s creative interpretations of history and local culture are contained in the free, comfortable museum, along with rotating special exhibits and collections on loan. The fact that it isn’t more discussed or visited is shocking.

Works on display at the Da Nang Fine Arts Museum.

Đà Nẵng’s sun can be menacing, and after a long day cruising around the city we were very happy to have the cool, relaxed grounds of the Sheraton Grand Da Nang to return to. Boasting the city’s largest pool, a quiet private beach and tree-filled landscaping, the hotel just south of downtown was an ideal oasis to recuperate at after busy days exploring the city. It’s also particularly appealing because of the convenient access to Hội An, where you can revel in quaint architecture, an exemplary performing arts center, trendy shopping and a staggering amount of delicious street food.

Elegant dining and exquisite street food

Of course, one doesn’t have to go all the way to Hội An for a great meal. The Grill at the Sheraton Grand Da Nang, for example, wowed us with not only their fresh ingredients but their dedication to the presentation as part of the meal. We selected special German steak knives to enjoy our tender imported beef, marveled at the flames leaping around the foie gras the head chef had brought to our table to prepare, and even discovered a before-unknown specialized spoon designed to remove juicy morsels of lobster meat from the shell. The most impressive part of our dinner, however, came at the end. A chef treated the entire table as his easel, painting a scene with ice cream, fresh fruit, merengue, jellies and chocolate. We would have continued to admire the work of art did it not look so delicious.

A meal served at The Grill at Sheraton Grand Da Nang.

The Grill is a particularly perfect place for an intimate meal to celebrate a special occasion, or simply an opportunity to savor a leisurely dinner alone focused on top-quality beef and fresh seafood. While in the city, we also wanted to explore the other spectrum of dining opportunities and had some quick and humble street food, including a stop at our favorite bánh xèo restaurant where the secret is in the sauce recipe that they refuse to reveal. No visit to Đà Nẵng would be complete without a bowl of mì Quảng or bún mắm, while the burgeoning An Thượng area of cafes and restaurants features an enticing array of international cuisine and culture.

From top left clockwise: Bánh Xèo Bà Dưỡng, Bún mắm Ngọc, Bún Chả Cá Dì Gái, Braii Pit, Bikini Bottom Express.

While it was tempting to remain at the Sheraton for a late-night dip in the 24-hour pool or simply savor the solitude of the stars and moonlight beach, we were curious to see how the city’s nightlife has rebounded after the extended pandemic period. We were pleased to see that many trends were continuing, including the emergence of creative cocktail venues that combine innovative mixology with hip and sophisticated ambiances. Strolls through night markets large and small were also great opportunities to stumble upon the unexpected while connecting with fellow travelers.

Craftsman Bar (two photos on the left) and Tailor Bar (two photos on the right).

An ocean perfect for sports and leisure

Considering all the activities in the city, it can be easy to forget that many people come to Đà Nẵng for the beach alone. Running the entire length of downtown, there are countless spots to lounge with a cocktail or cool off in the calm waves. More adventurous individuals can take to the water to swim, surf, kayak or standup paddle board. Perhaps the highlight of our visit, however, was the relaxed coasting along the shore aboard the Sheraton Grand’s Hobbie boat. One of the numerous water sports they provide, it was a calm means to view the city skyline, soak up the sun and enjoy the simple pleasures of watching tiny schools of fish leap from the clear surf.

Photos courtesy of Hoàng Minh Thương and Khìn (right).

Whether it's a quick weekend getaway or longer trip, Đà Nẵng makes a compelling case for all types of travelers. Those looking to unplug and indulge without drifting far from some of the country’s greatest beaches will feel just as welcomed as those aiming to embrace new cultural experiences and stumble upon hidden adventures between delicious, simple street food. With the Sheraton Grand Da Nang as your home base, there is no easier way to embrace the city’s many delights.

Sheraton Grand Danang Resort's website

Sheraton Grand Danang Resort's Email

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