A street cart crammed with all the fresh ingredients and utensils needed for a scrumptious meal parked beside hungry guests enjoying their dishes on plastic tables beneath a bright red flag: it’s as iconic a street scene as possible in Vietnam.

It also provided inspiration for one of Ginkgo’s most popular T-shirts, which is part of a new series that introduces an exciting style blending photographs with embroidery.

How exactly does the scene go from a photograph to a comfortable shirt one can wear? All of Ginkgo’s designs are collaborative efforts, with designers and team members meeting to brainstorm ideas and then share in-progress concepts for feedback and refinement. This particular shirt is part of the 13-year-old company’s dedication to drawing inspiration from, and celebrating, local culture. A basket teeming with bright tropical fruits balanced on a vendor’s shoulder; pedestrians waiting to enter the hectic crossing behind Benh Thanh Market; and a motorbike racing down a street: the other photos in this collection reveal the elements of daily life that are entwined with the brand’s DNA.

The origins of embroidery in Vietnam are unknown, but for centuries, artisans in the country have employed the eye-catching technique for clothing and homewares. It makes sense for Ginkgo to add it to their repertoire, considering their commitment to honoring, preserving and evolving local artists and styles. The bold red embroidery adds a fun and colorful streak of style to the monochrome photo, magnifying the artistry inherent in the image.

Designing a T-shirt at Ginkgo takes some trial and error. To support the community and because of the need to maintain quality standards across the entire process, they run their own factory in the city. It’s here that the skilled craftspeople experimented with different cuts, colors and embroidery placements for the team to review. Once the final design was decided on, the experienced team set to work creating sizes S - XL.

The shirt, simply titled Street Vendor, is made with 100% organic cotton. The handpicked material, more comfortable than blended alternatives, can breathe in the balmy tropics and, because of the detailed stitching, can last for years. And because it's organic, it leaves a smaller environmental impact. Ginkgo has steadily increased the number of designs it prints on organic cotton as part of its larger aims to operate as sustainably as possible. This translates to less packaging used for raw materials and purchases, a switch to more eco-conscious inks and the promotion of other brands that make reusable containers and environmentally-friendly home care products at Ginkgo stores. 

The final step for each Street Vendor shirt is finding its way into the wardrobe of customers. Originally, Ginkgo operated out of a 6 square-meter storefront that catered to tourists in search of higher-quality souvenirs. Over time it has become a brand that appeals to customers in Vietnam that want a visual representation of their love for the country and its many thrilling details. It has also expanded to numerous locations throughout Saigon and opened venues in Hanoi and Hoi An. People can visit one of the shops to purchase the shirt, or order it from the online store and have it delivered directly to them.

The Street Vendor shirt represents a confluence of what Ginkgo has always done, and ways in which its style is changing. The embroidered elements are both a nod to the local sources of influence that have always driven the brand, and a reflection of new refinements in craftsmanship that now uses photographs. Many residents of Vietnam experience a certain nostalgic thrill and pride when passing a busy street cart surrounded by plastic stools, and Ginkgo wants to embrace this emotion through the shirt as part of its mission to help everyone cherish the country and its unique cultures. 

What is the modern Vietnamese aesthetic?

One can often identify Japanese, Norwegian or German clothing or furniture just by looking at it, but what about Vietnam? Not having a clear identity exacerbates the problem of Vietnamese preferring foreign brands out of a false sense of prestige, at the expense of local producers.

In recent years an increasing number of Vietnamese designers have begun to create art, fashion, decor and accessories that attempt to capture the country’s unique aesthetic. Many of these items, be they cafes, t-shirts or typefaces, draw inspiration from past styles and motifs. One local company, however, is making the argument for a unique representation of Vietnam firmly placed in the modern-day.

“Ăn chắc mặc bền or eat what makes you full, and wear what lasts you a long time," explained the Một team when Saigoneer met them last month. This proverb helps explain the brand’s design philosophy. They believe that their style should reflect the practicality and simplicity of Vietnamese lifestyles. And because Vietnam is a vibrant tropical country, there should be some bright colors as well.

Launched in early 2018 by Huynh Quang Ngoc Han, an experienced product designer, and Pham Do Kien Quoc, the owner of a local factory with 30 years experience producing footwear for overseas brands, Một hopes to inspire people to reconsider “made in Vietnam” as a term that denotes both high quality and a unique identity.

Playing off the brand’s name, Một’s motto is “one pair all day.” They said that this means the shoes must be appropriate for any situation, including going to work, meeting friends for coffee, or simply walking around the city. And other than a new color released every year, the styles don’t change over time. Therefore, they aren’t trendy or bold, which is exactly what you want in an essential shoe with a long life.

But Một shoes do have a secret dash of flair if you know where to look. Getting a glimpse of the sole of a shoe requires a certain level of intimacy with its wearer, and thus seeing the underside of a Một shoe is a bit like becoming close enough friends with a person to witness new sides of their personality. The pattern on the soles resembles the clay roof tiles commonly found in traditional Vietnamese architecture, and there is a detailed silhouette of southern Vietnam that connects the shoe’s single seam from heel to toe.

Appealing to the Local Market

One of the difficulties Một has encountered so far has been justifying their prices (VND720,000 for canvas, VND1,470,000 for leather) to consumers who could buy other sneakers for a fraction of the cost. There are some significant differences, however, most notably in the rubber soles. Cheaper shoes feature vulcanized rubber soles that are glued to the fabric above. Anyone that has experienced the sole of their shoe flopping off knows the drawback to this. In contrast, Một’s shoes use molded rubber attached to 100% cotton canvas by stitchwork that anyone who grew up with a Vietnamese mother who mended their clothing will recognize. This method requires an additional mold for the cup sole, and because Một invests in developing their own molds to ensure durability and quality, their manufacturing cost is higher than brands that just copy or recycle existing brands’ molds. The high standards that Một sets for their products mean they must be manufactured in a factory that produces shoes that meet the quality demands of Japanese, American and European customers. 

The rubber soles have greater flexibility and bend than what one may be used to. Saigoneer tried out a pair on our regular walk to work, and the extra give makes hopping on and off curbs and weaving through the tangle of sidewalk obstructions a joy. In addition to the sole, the shoe's comfort is a product of the insole which was developed in-house as part of widespread R&D efforts. Moreover, Một is constantly looking to improve their shoes and their latest change involved removing the seam at the back of the heel. This means they don’t rub against the foot and can thus be worn sockless without fear of blisters. Not only is this more comfortable, but one no longer needs to stress about having a drawer full of perpetually mismatched socks.

Matters of Sustainability

Environmental stewardship is not all-or-nothing, and while quick to point out that manufacturing, in general, is not sustainable, Một makes serious efforts to be as ecologically responsible as possible. Firstly, having a single pair of shoes that meets all your needs and lasts for years puts far less strain on the planet than having a closet full of footwear.

Steps are also taken throughout the process to cut down on their ecological footprint. Any bits of excess fabric produced in the factory gets repurposed for the tote bags the shoes are delivered in. And having the shoes delivered is one of the most popular ways to buy Một shoes, because having an entire store dedicated to two simple styles would be a use of resources diametrically opposed to the brand’s dedication to efficiency and practicality. But those that want to see them in person and try them on can visit several shops around the country that carry them.

Vietnam has changed considerably from the days when people wore monochrome straw or rubber sandals. But the same practical mindset that produced them remains. It is this ethos that Một tries to capture in their shoes as an effort to give people a unique design identity they can be proud of.

Is it working? The brand recently announced pop-up in several department stores in Japan and have begun receiving orders from around the world including Europe and North America. Given the competition in those regions, Một wouldn’t be so popular if they were simply recycling existing styles from other countries. Rather, they seem to have hit on an authentic aesthetic that Vietnam hasn’t embraced before. It helps that they are incredibly comfortable, too.

Một's website

Một's Facebook

0774164406

Một's Email

The whir of a sewing machine accompanied Thao’s childhood mornings.

On her way to school, she would walk past piles of colorful fabric in the small tailor shop her mom operated out of the first floor of their Da Nang home. Small family businesses have been common in Vietnam for centuries, but Thao has expanded her mom’s livelihood into a thriving, multi-store operation named Real Clothes, whose success reflects dynamic trends in Vietnamese consumer culture.

Thao never planned to follow in her mother’s footsteps, acknowledging what a difficult and underpaid profession making clothes can be. She tells Saigoneer, however, that after studying in the US and obtaining a degree in commerce from an international university in Saigon, she found herself in a lucrative but unfulfilling finance job. During her frequent hours of office downtime, she thought up a way to help her mom and occupy her day.

People rarely prioritize the clothes they wear to work, compared with the expensive dresses that remain in the back of a closet, except for on a few special occasions. Thao observes that while office attire may not always be exciting or concerned with new trends, people should really select high-quality, carefully-made items, considering the amount of time they’ll wear them and their importance for making good impressions in business situations. This was the philosophy behind the first clothes she started requesting her mother to make for her to sell.

To create the designs, Thao scours the internet for what is popular around the world and then makes necessary alterations for local style preferences, or changes fabrics and cuts in response to Vietnam’s tropical climate. The large selection of blouses, dresses, skirts, pants and blazers adheres to familiar, time-honored styles that don’t go out of fashion. Thao does makes minor improvements based on customer feedback, however, and while the changes may not always be noticeable, new designs are more functional and fit better. What truly sets Real Clothes apart is the quality of the materials and the craftsmanship.

Vietnamese are visiting tailors less and less, preferring the convenience of big stores specializing in fast fashion brands that are produced in massive factories. In contrast, all Real Clothes items are made by hand. Thao’s mom has spent decades perfecting her sewing, cutting and stitching techniques, and her experience allows her to attend to the smallest matters, such as ensuring the thread matches the fabric, or that a jacket’s lining is the same color as the exterior. This attention to detail makes a big difference, Thao explains, and is the same reason people prefer iPhones to other models, to offer an analogy.

While Facebook is now Vietnam’s preferred way to shop, it wasn’t always that way. Thao started selling clothing on the platform in 2010 when the social media app first arrived in Vietnam. It was a “different world back then,” she says. Official store pages hadn’t been introduced yet, and Real Clothes was created as a regular profile. Strangers would accept friend requests out of curiosity, and it grew organically without the extravagant ad payments new businesses rely on today.

As Facebook interest exploded, Thao recognized a trend that is now widely understood in the industry: when it comes to clothing, people like to browse online, but want to actually see and try something on in person before purchasing. This led her to open a small Real Clothes physical space below her apartment in a tiny alley in 2013. Drawn in by social media, they’ve since expanded to 13 shops throughout Saigon and one each in Hanoi, Da Nang and Vung Tau. Thao estimates that about 85% of their purchases are made in-store, which therefore necessitates as many locations as possible to most conveniently cater to customers and their busy schedules.

Early on, Real Clothes operated in the same fundamental way as the small family business Thao’s mother had run for years. Customers would see a design they liked on Facebook, they’d message their measurements, and Thao’s mom would custom stitch it and ship it to Saigon. But as the business grew, this model proved too time-consuming, and the specific crafting to individual’s measurements, with allowance for all special requests, was transitioned away from. The clothing, however, remains made entirely by hand by experienced tailors.

To accommodate the growth of Real Clothes, Thao’s mom moved from making each piece herself to overseeing a team of more than 120 tailors spread out between a large workshop in Da Nang and a smaller one in Saigon. Thao herself has had to change her day-to-day role as well. At first, she was doing every aspect of the business, from photographs to styling to editing, but now she must give those tasks to other people so she can focus on bigger-picture matters.

In addition to being able to support a family and help her mom after observing her working so hard for so long, Thao shares that she cherishes Real Clothes because it gives her a platform to empower women. She shares her years of business experience and knowledge with the largely female store staff and watches them become more confident and entrepreneurially-minded people

In many ways, Thao’s story exemplifies Vietnam’s evolving retail landscape. In the face of more multi-national brands arriving here, individuals are looking to the careful traditions of previous generations to make a space for themselves while taking advantage of new technologies, and the power of social media in particular. Real Clothes provides a great model for how companies can satisfy local customers through a combination of global and distinctly Vietnamese perspectives, especially with a wise and driven owner leading the way.

Real Clothes Website

Real Clothes Facebook Page

Phone 0909726225 (Hotline)

Phone 0944142610 (feedback)

603A Luy Ban Bich, Tan Phu

356 Nguyen Trai, District 5

75 Mac Thi Buoi, District 1

115 Vo Van Ngan, Thu Duc

179 Quang Trung, Go Vap

38 Nguyen Trai, District 1

840 Su Van Hanh, District 10

229 Le Van Sy, District 3

472 Nguyen Thi Thap, District 7

119 Dinh Tien Hoang, District 1

115C Ba Trieu, Hanoi

19 Ba Cu, Vung Tau

158 Hoang Dieu, Da Nang

The term “Made in Vietnam” adorns clothing and accessories enjoyed by millions of people around the world, as Vietnam’s textile industry generates a whopping US$40 billion a year, constituting a significant portion of the nation’s economy.

Such value should convince people of the inherent skill and experience in manufacturing here, but people often consider textile products originating from Vietnam as being not only of lower quality but produced under horrendous working conditions. One Vietnamese bag company, Pretty Simple, is aiming to change this perception while introducing environmentally-friendly and sustainable vegan leather products to increasingly eco-conscious consumers.

A few women bobbing their heads to music in a comfortable air-conditioned space more akin to a living room than a factory is not what one typically imagines when thinking about “Made in Vietnam,” but it is the reality for Pretty Simple. The company prioritizes comfortable working conditions, reasonable hours and fair pay. Moreover, Xuan, the brand’s lead craftsperson, plays a significant role in the creative process. Based on her extensive experience in the industry, she offers crucial feedback and ideas when turning sketches into tangible products.

Though the term vegan leather may sound unfamiliar, if you’ve ever noticed the rectangular logo swatch on the back of a pair of jeans, you’ve seen the fabric before. Officially known as Kraft-tex, the 100% natural plant fiber is tanned in Italy, has Forest Stewardship Council certification and is fairly traded and cruelty-free. It looks almost identical to animal leather, and when Saigoneer visited Pretty Simple to see some samples in person, we were shocked at how sturdy it looked and felt. The durable material lasts for years and can even be washed in a washing machine with regular soap and won’t wrinkle or shrink.

Ella, one of Pretty Simple’s co-founders, was a practicing vegan but has recently relaxed her restrictions out of necessity. She isn’t extreme about it, noting every mindful act makes a difference and they add up; a view exemplified by the materials Pretty Simple uses in addition to the vegan leather. They’d like to forgo all plastics and rely completely on re-usable, highly-sustainable goods, but that isn’t currently realistic, so they make brief concessions when sourcing zippers, buttons and similar accouterments. Whenever possible, they purchase factory surplus materials and keep an eye out for new alternatives.

Pretty Simple describes their style as “slow fashion,” in contrast to the mass-produced and easily discarded goods popular around the world. This means fabrics that will last for years and timeless designs that don’t chase trends. Using sustainable ink, and true to the brand’s name, the bags come in a limited number of minimalist grays, blacks and browns that prize function over flash.

Their commitment to “slow fashion” also means slow growth. While it's a newer trend, Vietnamese consumers are becoming more and more interested in sustainable products, as well as brands that wear their “Made in Vietnam” logo with pride, a shift Pretty Simple has observed in person when bringing their products to various art markets and fairs throughout the city. Meanwhile, expats and travelers are increasingly interested in purchasing high-quality goods in line with values being widely adopted in the west. This is especially important for Suong, the other Pretty Simple co-founder. She explains that people don’t respect her native country for producing boutique goods, which is unfair considering the level of craftsmanship here.

Pretty Simple is in no rush, but they do have plans for the future. In addition to expanding to home-decor and exploring other materials, such as leather alternatives made from pineapple and cork bark, they hope to be featured in more stores around the world to continue changing people’s perception of “Made in Vietnam” and help people do their small part to help the planet.

Pretty Simple Goods can be found at several retail outlets in Saigon, Hanoi and Da Nang and through their online store.

Pretty Simple's website

Pretty Simple's Facebook

Phone: 0902496240 (English and Vietnamese) 

Phone: 0762404510 (English) 

Pretty Simple's Email

With each skin Vietnam sheds as it moves towards development and prosperity, it undergoes fundamental shifts, and no more so than in the country’s culture and aesthetics.

In turn, fashion has become one of the most visible vessels to showcase Vietnamese progress and aspirations.

One of the brands pushing the limits in this space is SIR Tailor, which creates bespoke suits to meet the demands of Vietnam’s urban, fashion-focused citizens and is providing Vietnamese businessmen the clothes to match their global outlook.

SIR Tailor is run by Phuc Doan and Triet Vo, who left their careers in hospitality and finance, respectively to pursue their passion for tailoring, despite not having formal technical training. Over the last five years, their drive has resulted in many trips across the globe, but especially to Europe where they increased their know-how and forged relationships with top-flight fabric companies and other artisans in the industry.

All of this shines through when one begins their experience at SIR Tailor whether at one of their shops in Saigon, Hanoi and Berlin.

It will become apparent from the get-go that you’re not making an ordinary suit. Books of fabric samples of every material, color and pattern imaginable are paraded out. This potentially dizzying undertaking is soothed by the calm demeanor and confidence of the staff who guide you to the colors that best match your frame, skin-tone and real-word use.

Regarding the last point, though they employ top European standards, SIR Tailor is cognizant that many of its customers spend the bulk of their time in Vietnam’s tropical and temperate climates. To that end, great attention is paid to the weight and breathability of the fabric and placement of lining panels – these can be omitted on the back half of your jacket.

The technicalities are on full display when creating a jacket – lapel style, button colors, sleeve heads, contrasted seam stitching, lining pattern, vent layout, embroidered initials, cuff cut and much more are all customized. Similar choices are made for the vest if you’re going the three-piece route.

Great pains are taken during the measuring process to ensure the balance and proportions of the garments are on-point.

They may be the supporting act but pants provide an additional layer of personalization, with SIR Tailor offering up a number of unique styles for ultimate flexibility. Their signature waistband design comfortably hugs your hips tight, meaning there’s no need to wear a belt. Also on offer are different pleat options to further stand out from typical dress pant fashions.

Dress shirts complete the outfit and like the other garments mentioned, start with flips through material books. Fortunately, by this point, decisions get easier as the suit elements dictate the properties of the shirt. Here, the hardest thing to settle on is the collar style - cutaway, button down, business classic.

Though there’s a lot to take in, especially for those who have not gone through the bespoke process before, each detail is in pursuit of SIR Tailor’s ultimate goal – to match their creations with their customer’s personality and to bring southeast Asia consumers the experience of Italian bespoke tailoring.

SIR Tailor currently has shops in Saigon (4 D7 Saigon Pearl Villa, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh District), Hanoi (Meliá Hotel - 44b Ly Thuong Kiet) and in Berlin (Mollendorff St. 44, 10367).

Due to the intricacies of the process, a suit with SIR Tailor requires multiple fittings and takes about one month to complete though rush jobs are available.

SIR Tailor's Facebook Page

SIR Tailor's Instagram

SIR Tailor's website

SIR Tailor's Email

(+84) 90 2528585

4 D7 Saigon Pearl Villa, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh District, Ho Chi Minh City

Meliá Hotel - 44b Ly Thuong Kiet, Hanoi

Mollendorff St. 44, 10367, Berlin, Germany