From Kuy Teav to Hủ Tiếu: How a Phnom Penh Classic Became Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang
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- Published on 04 October 2024
- Written by Khôi Phạm. Photo by Brandon Coleman.
Originally from Cambodia, made popular by Chinese vendors and enjoyed by local diners, hủ tiếu Nam Vang captures the essence of Vietnamese history in one hearty bowl of noodles.
I Know Where the Caged Bird Sings: The Joy of Saigon's Birdsong Competition
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- Published on 02 October 2024
- Written by Paul Christiansen and Nhung Nguyễn. Photos by Alberto Prieto.
One by one, motorbikes arrived, carrying the tell-tale cages covered with cloth and parked in the gravel lot beside the coffee shop where Saigoneer sat listening to the caged birds suspended above a patch of scrabbly grass.
Hẻm Gems: A Streetcart Named Aoya and the Comfort of Sidewalk Ramen
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- Published on 30 September 2024
- Written by Khôi Phạm. Photos by Pete Walls.
The first time I tried to visit Aoya Ramen was on a Monday. The pavement where the stall should be was empty, without any trace of noodles or noren. I learned quickly that they’re closed on Mondays. The second time, my joy in discovering that the cart was open for business was quickly dashed by the long queue of hungry diners already in line. The third time, learning from the previous crowd, I arrived later at 8:30pm, just to find out that they were out of stock for the day.
How Hanoi's Infectious Rats and Impish Locals Bamboozled the French in 1902
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- Published on 27 September 2024
- Written by Murray Jones. Images courtesy of Michael G. Vann.
When facing a bubonic plague epidemic, is it wiser to delve into sewers and cull infected rats yourself or offer payment to Vietnamese for deliveries of severed tails instead? For Hanoi’s French colonial rulers, the answer to this question was never in doubt, yet the consequences led to one of most humiliating periods of their rule.
Tracing the Roots of Bến Tre's Coconut Candy via My Grandma's Family Tales
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- Published on 26 September 2024
- Written by Thảo Nguyên. Top graphic by Trường Dĩ.
Hometown treats encapsulate within them the flavors of memories, reminding us of a land we haven’t visited for a long time. I open the jar of coconut candies from my mother and my hometown, and immediately breathe in a familiar scent reminiscent of our kitchen back then. I thought to myself: so this is the feeling of yearning people often talk about when referring to home.
Century-Old Historic Villa in Đồng Nai Faces Demolition Due to Road Project
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- Published on 24 September 2024
- Written by Saigoneer.
It’s yet another case of new infrastructure versus old heritage building — one of Vietnam’s most common urban planning clashes in recent years.
The Saigon Post Office, Benjamin Franklin, and a Source of Unexpected Pride
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- Published on 22 September 2024
- Written by Paul Christiansen. Photo by Alberto Prieto.
It’s not hard to find snippets of America in Saigon.
Explore the Realm of Sơn Mài Paintings via Nguyễn Xuân Việt’s New Solo Exhibition
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- Published on 21 September 2024
- Written by An Tran. Photos courtesy of Eight Gallery.
What does it mean for an artist to preserve and continue the legacy of traditional Vietnamese lacquer across generations? Through this solo exhibition, Nguyễn Xuân Việt showcases his vast expertise and his endless enthusiasm for lacquer painting.
In 1965, Life in Cần Thơ Was Tightly Interwoven With the Mekong River
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- Published on 18 September 2024
- Written by Saigoneer.
With more than 1.5 million citizens and many indicators of a modern metropolis, from the international airport to several Vincom malls, Cần Thơ is firmly established as the Mekong Delta's largest city. But before it was the most important regional hub for business, education and culture, it was a relatively small port dedicated to fishing and trading.
Wooden boats gather to offload people and products.
In 1965, Cần Thơ carried an unmistakable vibe of agricultural commerce. Its position on the Hậu River, a distributary of the Mekong not too far upstream from the fertile coast, brought boats from all directions carrying fruit, vegetables, and seafood. Away from the waterways, bicycles were a predominant mode of transportation, ferrying locals to markets, homes, and shops.
The camera captures local commotion.
This collection of images taken by an unknown photographer and gathered by Flickr archivist extraordinaire manhhai reveals a more austere version of Cần Thơ that exists mostly in memory and stories. Clothing without a single name brand long, nón lá covering nearly every head in the markets and rows of storefronts absent of any neon bulbs: it's a very different Cần Thơ.
Have a look and consider how much has changed in six decades:
Spokes, chains, peddles and thighs powered locomotion.
Local children who would be elderly by now.
The cause of this dour expression in front of the river will never be known.
Comings and going via all variety of wooden boats.
Was this the first time some of these children ever had their photo taken?
While less common than bicycles, trucks, vans and cars rumbled through town.
A panoply of daily life and rustic routines.
Not enough glory is reserved for the day laborers.
Even the sweet potatoes get covered during a downpour.
A simple fishing boat pushes out to fill its net.
These photos are all, really, a matter of perspective.
Scenes of an informal economy.
Selling fruits to feed the baby.
What is the average age at which one graduates from baby cap to nón lá?
Bananas were a popular fruit and they still are.
Typical activity on an unpaved road.
Not a single plastic stool in sight during lunchtime.
Trudging barefoot with heavy baskets.
It's not too hard to imagine the cacophony of orderly chaos.
Routine daily commute via boat.
The doors are open so the activity spills onto the streets.
Thats a lot of children.
Imagine what your Grab app would look like here.
Moments of happiness abound in the simple experiences.
Amid Saigon, a Traditional Lantern Craft Village Stands the Test of Time
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- Published on 17 September 2024
- Written by Thảo Nguyên.
Cellophane lanterns, the nostalgic anchors of our past full-moon festivals, are still alive thanks to the nimble fingers of craftspeople at the Phú Bình lantern “village” in Saigon.
Hẻm Gems: Time-Tested Sâm Bổ Lượng Versus Wacky Quail Eggs in a Dessert
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- Published on 15 September 2024
- Written by Khang Nguyễn. Photos by Cao Nhân.
As a kid, my mom would often buy me chè when the weather was too hot to keep me from drinking Coca-Cola. Chè made by Hoa people always got my attention, thanks to its distinctive presentation. Though, to get to it, I would usually drive to Chợ Lớn, which is fine, but it often involves traversing through traffic jams. So when I discovered Chè Sâm Bổ Lượng 399 on a random Google search, a long-established chè shop run by a Hoa family just 7 minutes from my office, I had to check it out.
Reminiscing About the Last Days of Downtown Saigon’s Pigeon Coop
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- Published on 13 September 2024
- Written by Dana Filek-Gibson. Photos by Lee Starnes.
The first time I pay a visit to the Pasteur pigeon coop, Lê Văn Âu assures me the place is probably not going anywhere.
A New Reading Space in Trà Vinh Creates Comfort From Recycled Materials
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- Published on 12 September 2024
- Written by Saigoneer.
“A book must be the axe for the frozen sea inside us,” according to famed Czech writer Franz Kafka.
Vietnam's Trendiest Way to Flaunt Your Social Status Is a Meme Lychee Tea
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- Published on 11 September 2024
- Written by Camille Lay. Top graphic by Mai Khanh.
Lychee tea can be found anywhere and anytime around Saigon, from street stalls to artisanal cafes. Averaging VND20,000–50,000, it’s a popular choice among Vietnamese youths. However, Thái Công Cafe prices their version of the fruit tea at around VND160,000 on their rather pricy menu. Yet, the drink remains extremely popular at the cafe and even went viral amongst Gen Z-ers on TikTok. The reason behind this virality is actually a meme.
The Unbearable Lightness of An Giang's Bánh Bò Thốt Nốt Chảo
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- Published on 10 September 2024
- Written by Uyên Đỗ. Photos by Jimmy Art Devier.
Some simple delights can capture the flavor of an entire region.
This Trung Thu, Learn How to Make Lion Heads From Huế's Lân Artisans
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- Published on 09 September 2024
- Written by Xuân Phương. Photos by Xuân Phương.
Often seen as the heart of Central Vietnam, Huế is the birthing ground for many traditional crafts. Artisan products from the ancient city often exude its inhabitants' elegance and rustic quality. Among them, the handmade lion’s heads from Huế carry distinctive slivers of beauty within them.
In Bánh Củ Cải, a Curious Slice of Bạc Liêu's Teochew Heritage
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- Published on 08 September 2024
- Written by Thi Nguyễn. Photos by Thi Nguyễn. Illustration by Hannah Hoàng.
You know a dish is special when it can spark conversation with a stranger on a bus. Halfway through the scrumptious bánh củ cải (radish cake) from our last-minute trip to the market, I shared the other half with my mom. "You're full?" asked a lady in the bunk next to us, which was then followed by a long discussion. I came home with several handy tips on how to recreate and elevate the already flavorful treat.
Food, Art, Heritage and Everything of the Essence in My #SaigonSummer
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- Published on 06 September 2024
- Written by Phạm Thục Khuê. Top graphic by Trường Dĩ.
“In summer, the song sings itself.”
― William Carlos Williams
Saigon Powerlifter Lê Văn Công Earns Vietnam's First, Only Medal at Paralympics
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- Published on 06 September 2024
- Written by Saigoneer.
Even though Vietnam’s delegation finished the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris without any medals, our Paralympics team managed to clinch one bronze from powerlifting.
Are We Living in the Final Days of Cô Mía?
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- Published on 05 September 2024
- Written by Paul Christiansen. Top photo by Alberto Prieto.
They say a person dies twice: once when their heart stops beating and a second time when people stop mentioning their name. If we alter this phrase a bit to include the last time one’s image is seen, Saigon’s beloved cô Mía may soon be receiving last rites.
