As Saigon Moves Forward, Xích Lô Lag Behind as Nostalgic Remnants of a Past Era
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- Published on 19 August 2025
- Written by Zukhra Tatybayeva and Dana Filek-Gibson. Photos by Lee Starnes.
Among Bùi Viện's assortment of xe ôm drivers and street food vendors, Bible-toting religious enthusiasts and other colorful personalities, 66-year-old Nghĩa stands out for his kind eyes and walrus-like mustache.
A Slice of Life in Coupon-Era Hanoi via Colorful Vintage Lottery Tickets
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- Published on 18 August 2025
- Written by Uyên Đỗ.
What can tiny sheets of paper reveal about a whole time period?
Hẻm Gems: In a D3 Hẻm, 40 Years of Bún Ốc and Other Northern Treats
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- Published on 17 August 2025
- Written by Khang Nguyễn. Photos by Cao Nhân.
As a resident of Saigon, I’m well-acquainted with the city's vibrant food scene, which features cuisines from various regions of Vietnam, and how these dishes blend local recipes with flavors that resonate with Saigon locals. But Bún Ốc Thanh Hải is quite the opposite. Its dishes, snacks, drinks, and even atmosphere carry a distinct northern identity, so much so that upon visiting the place, I felt as if I was on a culinary adventure within my own city.
Trần Dần, the Literary Maverick Teaching Us How We Should and Can Be an Artist
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- Published on 14 August 2025
- Written by Tuệ Đinh. Graphic by Dương Trương.
In the mind of many Vietnamese readers, the name of writer Trần Dần has been inextricably linked with artistic experimentation and innovation. His poetic voice feels nothing like those of writers I learnt back in high school: there is something so different, refreshing and oddly contemporary about it. As I consider every page of his bulky posthumously published anthology Thơ (Poetry), I find his legacy remains inspirational even for contemporary readers — especially other young Vietnamese — on what it means to “be an artist.” This does not only entail one’s appreciation and production of Vietnamese art, but also their adoption of an artist’s mindset into daily life.
The Rise and Fall of Phượng Vĩ, the Summer Icon of Our Teenage Dreams
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- Published on 13 August 2025
- Written by Khôi Phạm. Graphic by Mai Phạm and Mai Khanh.
I was a teenage cliché. No matter how much I try to rack my brain to find any other personal connection to the incandescently red tree that is phượng vĩ, I keep going back to my middle school crush and that one tree in the front yard of our school.
Huế's Palm-Sized Bánh Mì Chuột Is the Perfect Snack for Nibbling While Walking
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- Published on 12 August 2025
- Written by Paul Christiansen. Photos by Alberto Prieto.
Huế's culinary landscape is designed for snacking. From bánh khoái to bánh bèo to chè bột lọc heo quay, many of the most popular and delicious dishes are served in small portions that work together collectively to fill one’s belly, but don’t get the job done on their own.
A Tribute to the Incredibly Eye-Catching, Organic Signage of Sa Đéc
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- Published on 11 August 2025
- Written by Saigoneer. Photos by Alberto Prieto. Top graphic by Ngàn Mai.
Signs are like voices.
Tàu Cánh Ngầm: The Curious Case of Saigon’s Lost Soviet Hydrofoils
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- Published on 07 August 2025
- Written by Brian Letwin. Top image by Dennis Jarvis.
Not long ago, hulking “creatures” glided atop the waters between Saigon and Vũng Tàu. Like the dinosaurs that came before them, they slowly disappeared, until all that was left were their skeletons.
The Reason to Cry for Cu Li, Vietnam's Deeply Misunderstood Primate
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- Published on 06 August 2025
- Written by Paul Christiansen. Illustrations by Ngọc Tạ.
A drop of the animal’s blood renders the soil barren; entire mountains can crumble and collapse where it landed. Be wary of this slow wayfarer of the forest, for if you catch sight of its glowing eyes in the distant darkness, your trip is doomed and should be abandoned immediately. And if someone brings one back to the village, make all efforts to return it to the jungle, lest you invite sorrow and ruin into your home. Don’t let its meagre stature, a mere 500 grams, and slow, cuddly demeanor confuse you; the cu li guards the gates to hell.
On a Walking Tour, Mulling Over the Glorious Past and Odious Present of Tô Lịch River
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- Published on 05 August 2025
- Written by Linh Phạm. Graphic by Hannah Hoàng.
We began our journey in front of a bank where the street Trần Nhật Duật turned into Chợ Gạo.
Hẻm Gems: 3 Hào, a Retro Industrial Cafe in D7 for Night Owls on Deadlines
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- Published on 04 August 2025
- Written by Vĩnh An. Photos by Hạo Lê.
What do you think of when imagining a cafe? For me, it's plants in every corner, small and cute paintings that adorn the walls, or a light- and neutral-colored space that brings a sense of peace to customers. What would happen if a coffee shop attempted to subvert most of these elements? This is the case of 3 Hào Cafe, a combination of vintage industrial ambiance and, of course, good drinks.
In 1920s–1940s Paris, Vietnamese Artists Painted Through the Interwar Period as the 'Others'
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- Published on 01 August 2025
- Written by An Trần.
How did Vietnamese artists navigate the complex tides of social and political changes, and mark their own position in the art world as the “Others” during interwar Paris — which was celebrated as the “City of Lights,” yet also a stage for both colonial propaganda and a ground for anti-colonial resistance?
The Surprisingly Recent History Behind Bình Thạnh's Lonely 'Gia-Đinh' Gate
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- Published on 01 August 2025
- Written by Tim Doling. Photo by Lee Starnes.
It’s claimed by several tourism websites that a gateway from one of the ancient Gia Định citadels has survived and may be viewed on the Lê Văn Duyệt-Phan Đăng Lưu intersection in Bình Thạnh District, close to the Lê Văn Duyệt Mausoleum. However, a little research into the history of that area reveals that the gateway in question has more recent origins.
5 Saigon Coffee Shops Based in Buildings With Southern Modernist Architecture
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- Published on 31 July 2025
- Written by Khôi Phạm. Graphic by Ngọc Tạ. Photos by Khôi Phạm.
Saigon is a cafe enthusiast’s paradise. A decades-old coffee culture fostered by previous generations is still alive and well, in addition to the latest global trends brought over by the younger generation of baristas. When it comes to interior styles and vibes, there’s a little something for everyone, from gritty industrial to spartan Japandi chic to Saigon’s very own southern modernist architecture.
The Hunt for Vietnam's Dinosaurs Has Found Nothing Yet, but There Is Hope
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- Published on 30 July 2025
- Written by Paul Christiansen and Khôi Nguyễn. Graphics by Ngọc Tạ.
Why aren’t there any Vietnamese dinosaurs?
In Hanoi, Waacking Is Not Just a Dance, but a Home for Creativity, Gender Fluidity Too
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- Published on 29 July 2025
- Written by Nguyệt. Photos by Léo-Paul Guyot. Graphic by Lê Minh Phương.
“I get to express my madness.” That is what Trần Khánh Linh, also known as Lyna, says when asked why she has been waacking for the last 10 years. By day, Lyna is a jewelry and gemstone seller, but by night, she joins her friends at the Soul Waackers, a waacking group based in Hanoi, and practices a dance style that allows her a vibrant way to self-express.
Wipha, Yagi and Luc-Binh: How Are Tropical Storms Named in the Pacific Region?
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- Published on 28 July 2025
- Written by Khôi Phạm.
Wipha was the latest typhoon to batter Vietnam this year, sweeping through northern provinces like Hưng Yên, Ninh Bình, Nghệ An, and Thanh Hóa and causing dangerous floods. It was 2025’s third and probably will not be the last that Vietnam will have to endure this year.
Vietnam's Colonial Histories Reimagined as Fictional Adventure Tale in ‘The Year Is XXXX’
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- Published on 27 July 2025
- Written by An Trần.
We often encounter adventure tales in books and through adaptations of films or television. But what if a newly imagined adventure tale can also be written as an exhibition — one that maps strange-yet-familiar landscapes with a colonial history of exploration and exploitation?
The Legends of Thăng Long Tứ Trấn, the 4 Guardian Temples Protecting Hanoi
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- Published on 25 July 2025
- Written by Hà Bích Ngọc and Mia Trịnh. Photos by Alberto Prieto.
In the edict to move Vietnam’s capital to Hanoi, Emperor Lý Thái Tổ described this land as the middle of heaven and earth, the center of the four directions. Such a place would bring peace and prosperity, he believed, and deserved sacred protection.
Hẻm Gems: A Bún Bò in Huế That Rivals Even Saigon's Best Bún Bò Huế
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- Published on 25 July 2025
- Written by Paul Christiansen. Photos by Alberto Prieto.
Plastic stools circling low metal tables. Staff wearing pajamas and street clothes that match patrons welcomed from all walks of life. Meagre and/or mismatched decor. Views of street traffic with motorbike engines as soundtrack. Brief menus sometimes consisting of a single dish. A strict cash-only policy (until recent years, at least). Minimal concern for health-safety regulations. No artifice of chef as artist or meal as a masterpiece. While we can quibble over a specific, all-encompassing definition for streetfood restaurant, there are many qualities most will agree they share.
