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The Haunting Beauty in Một Mét Studio's Vintage Photography Experiments

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Published on 28 November 2023
Written by Paul Christiansen. Photos by Một Mét Studio.

“With the wet collodion process, when you get your portrait shot, it really cannot lie; it really reveals the story of your life on your face. You will see through your make-up, through the tattoos; there are no wrinkles, no scars that can be hidden. People really see themselves in a new light,” Hugo Armano, the assistant at Hội An’s Một Mét Studio, explained to Saigoneer. 

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At Bá Tân Bookstore, a Home for Vintage Books, Readers, and Goodness

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Published on 27 November 2023
Written by Như Quỳnh. Photos by Alberto Prieto.

I got to know Bá Tân Bookstore thanks to a friend’s suggestion.

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Did You Know That There's a Mummy on Nguyễn Bỉnh Khiêm Boulevard?

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Published on 26 November 2023
Written by Paul Christiansen. Photos by Paul Christiansen.

Why is there a mummy on display in Saigon?

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Meet the Hội An Family Making Cao Lầu Noodles From Scratch

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Published on 21 November 2023
Written by Xuân Phương. Photos by Xuân Phương.

Amid Hội An’s treat-filled culinary landscape, cao lầu emerges as something that’s both simple and one-of-a-kind.

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A Flaky Pâté Chaud That's Been a Saigon Institution Since 1930

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Published on 20 November 2023
Written by Paul Christiansen. Photos by Cao Nhân.

It took me 37 years to have my first pâté chaud.

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English-Language Edition of 'Chinatown' by Thuận Wins US Translation Award

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Published on 15 November 2023
Written by Saigoneer.

The 2023 National Translation Award for fiction was given by the American Literary Translators Association (ALTA) to Nguyễn An Lý’s translation of Chinatown by Thuận.

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'The Mountain in the Sea' Is a Meditation on Myths, Monsters, and the Mind

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Published on 14 November 2023
Written by Garrett MacLean. Top image by Mai Phạm.

“A myth,” said existentialist psychologist Rollo May, “is a way of making sense in a senseless world.” Humans need myths and legends to survive. And they need us to survive too; it’s how we’ve learned to escape ourselves so that we can live with ourselves.

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Art Direction of Ngọt's Gieo Album Nominated for Best Package at 2024 Grammys

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Published on 13 November 2023
Written by Saigoneer.

Over the weekend, the Recording Academy unveiled the coveted list of nominees for the 2024 Grammys. Amongst the likes of Taylor Swift, Olivia Rodrigo and SZA, a Vietnamese name stood out, much to the delight of local netizens.

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In Quện's Live Sets, Đà Lạt's Everyday Corners Turn Spontaneous Stages

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Published on 09 November 2023
Written by Nguyệt. Photos courtesy of Quện.

All attention was aimed towards the same direction, the one where an accident had just taken place. Near 24C, Hoàng Diệu Street in the city of Đà Lạt, two vehicles collided. The shock and chaos attracted the curious looks of pedestrians and drivers alike. Timely isolated percussion further enhance the puzzling scene that was captured from multiple angles. You can see the whole thing for yourself at 41:30 in “Quện Mix Nhã Nhạc Vol 5,” a recording of a live vinyl DJ set, at an old-school hair salon in Đà Lạt. This accidental cinematic moment of real-life spontaneity juxtaposed with a passion for good music captures well the spirit of Quện - Sound Collage

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Sweating for a Good Cause at the Blue Dragon Children’s Foundation Walk in Hanoi

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Published on 07 November 2023
Written by Elise Luong. Photos courtesy of Blue Dragon.

I learnt of the Blue Dragon Children’s Foundation in my first year living in Hanoi, through friends that had worked for the fantastic organization, or that were regular donors supporting it. This year, I was super excited to see their “Blue Dragon Marathon Walk” annual fundraiser announced, with the main Hanoian event looping around Thống Nhất Park's lake. Embracing the opportunity to contribute, I put my hand up for a 10K walk and enticed friends and family from around the world to send donations to the wander-for-a-cause.

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On 'Past Lives,' Duyên, and the Complexities of Vietnamese Diasporic Identities

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Published on 06 November 2023
Written by Yen Vu. Top graphic by Mai Khanh.

Past Lives left me bereft, much like how the reunion of main characters Hae-sung and Nora concluded at the end of the film — that is, without much conclusion at all.

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Hẻm Gems: It's Impossible to Resist Bún Riêu Cô Yến's Crispy Fried Tofu

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Published on 03 November 2023
Written by Elyse Phạm. Photos by Alberto Prieto.

A few years ago, my family’s Christmas Eve tradition of making gỏi cuốn was swapped out for a special competition, one that would decisively end a longstanding rivalry: who, out of the aunts and uncles, could make the best bún riêu?

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Bodies of Work Shred, Re-Shaped at 'White Noise' Exhibition

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Published on 03 November 2023
Written by Elise Luong. Photos courtesy of Nguyen Art Foundation.

A dystopian setting where the human body appears scattered, its parts eerily dismembered, its desires and beliefs examined by the hands of a machine is fictionalized in the “White Noise” exhibition, now on show at the Nguyen Art Foundation (NAF). Within the imagined route of an ant, the gore and glory of a distant past, once dominated by humans, slowly reveals itself.

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In Đà Nẵng, a Close-Knit Surfing Community Rides the Waves

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Published on 27 October 2023
Written by Oliver Newman. Photos by Oliver Newman.

Đà Nẵng does not feel like a surf town. The gaudy beachside nightclubs are a far cry from the bohemian vibes of Hawaii or San Diego, and the coastline is more synonymous with basket boats than surfboards. Look for it, however, and you’ll find a subculture of beach breaks, skate bowl surf shacks, board rental huts, and passionate surfers within a tight knit but welcoming community.

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As Infrastructure Lags Behind, Saigon's Poorest Hardest Hit by Worsening Flooding

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Published on 26 October 2023
Written by Nhung Nguyễn. Top photo by Cương Trần.

In April this year, in the first downpour of southern Vietnam’s rainy season, the narrow rented room where Mã Thị Diệp and her children were staying in Hồ Chí Minh City was inundated by knee-high water.

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Hẻm Gems: Wake up Early, We're Getting Hủ Tiếu Cá for Breakfast

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Published on 25 October 2023
Written by Thùy Trang. Photos by Cao Nhân.

When I used to live in Hanoi, I always knew that if an eatery only opens for half a day, the food is probably certified, at least by the locals, to be not only good, but excellent. There is something written in the local traditions that specific dishes should be served at particular times of the day.

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Hẻm Gems: On Falling Head Over Heels (Literally) for Dũng Ký's Mì Xào Giòn

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Published on 24 October 2023
Written by Uyên Đỗ. Photos by Cao Nhân.

When Saigoneer’s office relocated from District 1’s downtown to District 3 earlier this year, one of the instantly noticeable changes was the increase in affordable eating options.

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Hẻm Gems: From Cà Mau, Cô Xíu Brings Bánh Tầm Cà Ri Cay to Bình Thạnh

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Published on 23 October 2023
Written by Paul Christiansen. Photos by Alberto Prieto.

Recently, I’ve had the Mekong Delta on the mind. This month I made two trips down to research various elements of the watery region, and also spent time reading author Khải Đơn’s tremendous delta-focused book of poetry Drowning Dragon Slips by Burning Plain; read my review of the book here. And while I haven’t actually seen the movie adaptation Đất Rừng Phương Nam, it’s been impossible to avoid the promos that feature a stereotypical wooden boat easing along a narrow delta channel, while white herons rise and farmers trudge into the field wearing colorful clothing with black khăn rằn. 

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How One Saigon Gym Is Re-Inventing Fitness

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Published on 23 October 2023
Written by Saigoneer. Photos by Primal Performance Lab.

Technology has fundamentally altered how Saigoneers travel around the city, find and eat food, form and maintain relationships and make purchases. Such innovations can profoundly change how one approaches fitness here as well.

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Hẻm Gems: Bánh Đa Cua Hải Phòng, a Rare Northern Treat in D10

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Published on 22 October 2023
Written by Garrett MacLean. Photos by Cao Nhân.

On the way to Phú Thọ Indoor Sports Stadium in District 11, make a turn off 666/74 Ba Tháng Hai, go all the way to the far corner, and you’ll discover Triển Chiêu Quán’s bright yellow sign. Park underneath the canopy, walk up the ramp, and you’ll notice something stands out, but you might not know why — bunches of caramel-colored noodles in the kitchen area waiting to be enjoyed.

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