Back Creator
Chris Humphrey

Chris Humphrey

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Slurping Thick Noodles and Seafood at Bánh Canh Ghẹ Út Còi

A whiff of the ocean hits you before you even step foot onto the street. In this curious corner between Quang Trung and Nhà Chung, a new form of restaurant exemplifies the vitality and variety of Hano...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: The Quiet Intimacy of Tree Bar, Where Strangers Become Fast Friends

A group of patrons gossip in thick, fast Japanese. They might all know each other or they might just speak to anyone at the bar as if they already know them. The wizened “master” joins in from his per...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Nourishment for the Soul at Canh Bún Nguyễn Siêu

Eating canh bún is akin to going for a walk on a clear day as sunset melts over the city; it costs almost nothing yet nourishes the soul.

Chris Humphrey

in Travel

The Majesty of Crossing Myanmar on Colonial-Era Trains

Whether on the slow train carving its way through the Shan Hills near Kalaw, the Mandalay to Yangon Express, or the 4am train to Hsipaw that crosses the great Goteik Viaduct, traversing Myanmar on gri...

Chris Humphrey

in Society

The Rustic Beauty of Hanoi's Red River Brick Factories

Living in a city as culturally rich and absorbing as Hanoi, it’s not unusual to discover new secrets in a place you thought you knew completely. The depth of the capital really is astounding. And yet,...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Căng Tin Cafe, a Gateway to the Past for the City's New Youth

Hanoi’s café scene is saturated with cafés selling a vision of the past.

in Hanoi

Hanoi Starts Revoking Operating Licenses of Cafes on 'Train Street' This Week

Hanoi is shutting down its infamous "Train Street" starting this weekend.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: A Spicy Bún Lòng Cá From Hải Phòng That Takes Guts to Try

Út Hà Quán looks nothing like the kind of traditional Hanoi street food eatery that makes it to glossy magazines and world-famous food channels. There’s no grumpy grandma, no mold on the walls an...

in Environment

Ever Wonder What Happens to Your Plastic Bags? Ask Vietnam's Ve Chai Army.

Lacking an effective official scheme, Hanoi relies on an army of informal workers to recycle its waste — a situation that hasn't changed over the last four decades.

Chris Humphrey

in Culture

At Hanoi's Thousand-Year-Old Flute Kite Festival, Melodies and Prayers Cross the Sky

Passed down by village forefathers since the Dinh Dynasty, Ba Duong Noi Village’s kite festival has become a source of pride for the local community. With three bamboo flutes attached to each kite, it...

Chris Humphrey

in Society

Q&A: Blue Dragon Co-CEO Skye Maconachie on How the Pandemic Affects Vietnam's Most Vulnerable

Saigoneer talks to Skye Maconachie, Co-CEO of Blue Dragon Children’s Foundation, a respected, Hanoi-based NGO known for rescuing victims of human trafficking and supporting street kids in the capital....

in Food Culture

Hanoi Allows Restaurants, Cafes to Reopen at 50% Capacity

Starting today, patrons can visit their favorite restaurants and cafes again.

Chris Humphrey

in Asia

Inside Cambodia's Floating Village, Where 40% of People Are Ethnic Vietnamese

Chong Kneas floating village, only 15 kilometers south of Siem Reap, is one of hundreds that line Tonle Sap Lake. Tens of thousands of families live in these clustered homes, around 40% of whom are Vi...

Chris Humphrey

in Music & Arts

Review: On Debut EP 'Low,' Ho Tram Anh Sings Like a Poet Laureate for the Disconnected

Is anyone else in Hanoi creating music as stark and affecting as Ho Tram Anh? 

in Film & TV

Q&A: In Conversation With 'The Future Cries Beneath Our Soil' Director Phạm Thu Hằng

Do communities inherit the sorrows of war? Is trauma re-experienced by the sons and daughters of those who suffered? How does life prevail amidst the normalization of loss? Pham Thu Hang’s debut film,...

in Health

Vietnam's Childhood Obesity Rate Doubles Over 10 Years, Data Shows

Are Vietnamese children spending less time on active recreations and more at home?

Linh Pham

in Music & Arts

On ‘Ếch Ếch Vol. 1,’ a Mosaic of Hanoi’s Underground Music Scene

Hardcore, indie, metal, folk? The latest compilation album emerging from the capital is as multifaceted as the city itself.

in Vietnam

Vietnam Slightly Advances on UN Human Development Index to No. 117 of 189

Over the last 30 years, Vietnam's HDI (Human Development Index) has grown by 46%, amongst the biggest jump in the world.

in Hanoi

Strong Cold Front to Hit Hanoi, Northern Provinces This Week

Time to break out your winter wardrobe.

in Development

Plan for 5 New Rail Lines Linking Saigon to Southern Provinces Approved

Go big or go home.

in Music & Arts

Saigon to Host Major Street Art Festival Next Year

Saigon is banking on the festival's success to draw international visitors back to the city after the COVID-10 pandemic subsides next year.

in Hanoi

No Pets, No Vendors, No Vulgarities: Hanoi Proposes New Pedestrian Plaza Restrictions

The spacious pedestrian plaza in Hoan Kiem District has become a hot hangout for locals, but with that popularity also comes numerous nuisances.

in Vietnam

Public Electric Bus Routes, Run by VinBus, May Be Coming to Hanoi

The routes would utilize electric buses manufactured by VinFast.

in Vietnam

Vietnamese Youths Hardest-Hit by Employment Crisis During Covid-19 Pandemic

Unemployment amongst youths in Vietnam is expected to double as a result of the economic havoc caused by the global COVID-19 pandemic. 

in Vietnam

Hội An Restarts Social Distancing; Đà Nẵng Stops F&B Services, Including Takeaways

After Đà Nẵng, Hội An is the second city in Việt Nam to bring back social distancing measures after July’s coronavirus outbreak.

in Environment

Cà Mau Announces $820m Plan to Fight Climate Change

Cà Mau is among localities in Vietnam most affected by erosion.

in Hanoi

Tay Ho Alley Grapples With Trash Problem Caused by Photo-Seeking Visitors

Just the latest example of people ruining the very the beauty of a spot that drew them for its beauty.

in Vietnam

Vietnam Reports Serious Spike in Waterway Accidents in First 5 Months of 2020

Vietnam has seen a dramatic rise in accidents, injuries and fatalities on its rivers in the first five months of the year.

Chris Humphrey

in Music & Arts

Rooftop Concerts: Electronic Duo Tiny Giant Performs 'Air' (Live in Truc Bach)

Following Limebócx last year, Tiny Giant is now the third act to feature in Rooftop Concerts, Saigoneer's live music video series, and their haunting, dance-driven performance feels like the perfect s...

in Travel

[Photos] Urbanist Travel Getaways: The Stillness of Kyoto's Fushimi Inari Taisha at Night

If you visited Kyoto but didn’t snap a snazzy shot of the seemingly infinite row of torii gates, did you really visit Kyoto? Or at least, that’s what common travel conventions seem to suggest.

in Vietnam

Vietnam Wants You to Get Married Before 30, Bear 2 Children

In a move that will surely put a smile on the face of Vietnamese moms everywhere, the government recently announced an initiative to encourage local couples to tie the knot and start popping out child...

in Hanoi

Hanoi Visitor Numbers Down 92% Over Holiday Weekend Compared to 2019

The recent national holiday weekend saw Hanoi's visitor numbers plummet in the face of the ongoing coronavirus pandemic.

in Food Culture

Afro Mini Mart: What's Inside Vietnam’s First African Grocery Store?

At first glance, it looks just like any other convenience store. The same strings of Oishi shrimp snacks and revolving wire rack of Orion Marine Boys adorn either side of its entrance, just as they do...

Chris Humphrey

in Travel

[Photos] Dangerous, Adorable, Bizarre: A Look at Japan's Time-Honored Art of Making Mochi

Frenetic, dangerous, absolutely bizarre… the time-honored art of pounding mochi, a simple Japanese glutinous rice desert, is as entertaining as it is ngon vãi chưởng.

in Vietnam

Discrimination Against Foreigners on the Rise Amid Covid-19 Fears

After three weeks of no new virus cases in February, the majority of Vietnam’s 60 new cases have been linked to foreign tourists.

in Environment

AirVisual Ranks Hanoi as World's 7th-Most Polluted Capital in 2019

According to a new report released by AirVisual, Hanoi ranked seventh on a list of the world’s most polluted capital cities in 2019.

in Vietnam

Over 23,000 Drivers Fined for Driving Under Influence in First 2 Months of 2020

After the new bill on alcohol consumption was passed by the National Assembly, stricter regulations on driving after having consumed alcohol were enforced.

in Music & Arts

In Tình Đầu Exhibition Space, a Home for Hanoi's Bohemian Young Artists

Nestled deep within labyrinthine alleyways in Hanoi’s Ba Đình District, Tình Đầu (first love), a studio-gallery run by a collective of Vietnamese artists, is growing a reputation as a home for the cap...

in Tech

Vietnam to Install Surveillance Cameras on Buses to Combat Sexual Harassment

A decree recently approved by Prime Minister Nguyen Xuan Phuc will make several changes to transportation services including the addition of surveillance cameras to 170,000 transportation vehicles.&nb...

in Vietnam

Vietnam Sees Sharp Drop in Traffic Accidents in January Compared to 2019

During the four weeks leading up to Tet, the number of traffic accidents plummeted across Vietnam, a positive sign considering those also made up the country’s busiest period.

in Vietnam

Vietnam Will Have Harsher Dry Season, Fewer Typhoons in 2020, Experts Say

The harsh dry season is predicted to impact all three regions of the country.

in Vietnam

Vietnam-China Train Stopped in its Tracks Amid Ongoing Virus Fears

 For the first time in 11 years, the train crossing the border from Vietnam into China will stop running amid continuing coronavirus concerns. 

in Vietnam

Northern Vietnam Just Had the Hottest Start to a Year in 5 Decades

Is it just us, or is it a little hot in here?

in Food Culture

Step Inside Quốc Hương, the Centuries-Old Store Home of Chả and Bánh Chưng

For around 200 years, Quoc Huong store has been selling sumptuous meat delicacies to hungry Hanoians.

in Development

Starting This Month, Hanoians Can Travel All the Way to Beijing by Train

The service began on January 1.

in Hanoi

Should Hanoi Release Doves on Hoan Kiem Lake’s Walking Streets?

The suggestion is Hanoi’s latest attempt to introduce wildlife to the Hoan Kiem Lake area.

in Asia

Singaporean Scientists Find New Way to Break Down Plastic

It's a brave new world.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Rice Dumplings With Bean Paste, Grated Coconut and Fiery Ginger Syrup

Bánh trôi tàu are elongated rice dumplings filled with mung bean paste, black sesame paste or grated coconut and served in a hot ginger syrup that warms one’s belly during cold winter months.

in Development

Hanoi's First 2 Metro Lines May Open by End of This Year

Let's begin the new year with updates from Hanoi's much-anticipated urban railway project.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Loading T Serves up Decadent Egg Coffee in a 1930s Architectural Gem

Travel back in time to a café within a charming 1930s building, only a few hundred meters away from St Joseph’s Cathedral.

in Vietnam

New Law Requiring Humane Treatment of Livestock to Take Effect From Jan 1

The Law on Animal Husbandry includes a number of regulations aimed at creating safe animal husbandry conditions, as well as more humane treatment for animals.

in Hanoi

Morning Stories Roundup: Pollution-Hit Hanoi Resorts to Water Trucks to Wash Away Dust

Stay connected with Saigoneer on Twitter and Instagram and like us on Facebook. Each morning, we select some of the most important stories from the capital, the rest of Vietn...

Chris Humphrey

in Culture

[Photos] The Naked Truth Behind Hanoi's 'Banana Island' Nudists

Hanoi is a conservative capital where young couples rarely kiss in public, yet along the banks of the Red River, a men's nudist club thrives. 

in Hanoi

Hanoi Again Considers Banning 3-Wheel Rickshaws, Xích Lô

How will sunburned tourists get around?

in Development

Saigon Announces Plan for 150-Hectare Multi-Purpose Park in D12

The park will be located in Thanh Xuan and Thoi An wards.

in Vietnam

Almost 3,500 Vietnamese Trafficked Since 2013, Government Says

The statistics come in the wake of 39 Vietnamese nationals being found dead in a container truck in southeast England.

Chris Humphrey

in Postcards

Hanoi Postcard No. 10: Capital City Claustrophilia

Cramped alleyways thread through the heart of Hanoi’s Old Quarter like arteries, carrying not just people and goods, but also intrigue and fear.

in Development

Proposed Hai Phong–China Train Route Raises Concerns Over Hefty Price Tag

From Hai Phong, the 390-kilometer line would run through Hanoi and Lao Cai before reaching China’s Hekou County.

Chris Humphrey

in Music & Arts

Rooftop Concerts: Limebócx – 'Yêu Nhau (Qua Cầu Gió Bay)

Rooftop Concerts, Saigoneer's live music video series, is finally back; this time featuring electronic duo Limebócx, one of the most promising new acts in the capital's underground music scene. 

in Stories

Morning Stories Roundup: Visa Exemptions Set to Expire for Seven Major Tourism Markets

Stay connected with Saigoneer on Twitter and Instagram and like us on Facebook. Each morning, we select some of the most important stories from the capital, the rest of Vietn...

in Hanoi

New Wastewater Discharge Fee Proposed for Hanoi Residents

If approved, the fee will be implemented in 12 of the capital's 27 districts.

in Environment

Environment Ministry Officials Propose Plastic Bag Tax

Would it help break Vietnam's plastic addiction?

in Health

Fourth Person Dies of Swine Flu This Year, Dozens Quarantined

A Buddhist nun in the Central Highlands died of swine flu on Tuesday, bringing the total number of deaths caused by the disease this year to four.

in Development

JICA Suggests Urban Railways Could Help Reduce Air Pollution in Hanoi, Saigon

The Japan International Cooperation Agency (JICA) is helping authorities to develop a measuring, reporting and verification system for Vietnam’s urban railway systems.

in Development

JICA Suggests Urban Railway Could Help Reduce Air Pollution in Saigon, Hanoi

The Japan International Cooperation Agency (JICA) is helping authorities to develop a measuring, reporting and verification system for Vietnam’s urban railway systems.

in Environment

Hanoi Should Clamp Down on Single-Use Plastic, Experts Say

In a meeting last Friday, experts warned Hanoi authorities about the city’s growing plastic waste problem.

Chris Humphrey

in Environment

The Campaign Aiming to End Vietnam's Gruesome Buffalo Fights

Sharpened horns, gashed eyes and slashed skin are hallmarks of buffalo fighting festivals that animal rights organizations are trying to close down.

in Hanoi

To Combat Smog, Hanoi to Ban Coal Stoves From 2021

The move is part of a major effort to improve air quality and living conditions in the capital.

in Vietnam

Vietnam Needs Large-Scale Recycling Using Plastic Waste as Resource, Official Says

On October 22, a conference on preventing plastic waste was held in Hanoi by the Vietnam Association for Community Health Education (VACHE), which presented potential amendments to the current environ...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Silken Tofu and Velvety Dumplings at Hanoi’s Most Authentic Chinese Eatery

I’ve long searched for an authentic Chinese restaurant in Hanoi that makes good dumplings — one of the most comforting foods to come out of northern China.

in Hanoi

Hanoi's First Metro Line Begins 20-Day Trial Run

The Cat Linh-Ha Dong metro line has commenced a 20-day commercial trial run despite renewed reports earlier this week of the line being delayed for the ninth time.

in Hanoi

Plan to Permanently Pedestrianize 9 Streets Around Hoan Kiem Lake Grows Clearer

A number of Hanoi’s hugely popular walking streets may soon become permanently pedestrianized.

in Hanoi

Hanoi's Cat Linh-Ha Dong Metro Line Delayed Again

According to reports, this is the ninth time the line has been delayed.

in Hanoi

Major Extensions Considered for Several Metro Lines

While no sections of Hanoi's metro system are operational yet, city officials are already planning massive extensions for future lines.

Chris Humphrey

in Travel

Is This Really the End of the Line for Hanoi’s ‘Train Street’?

Hanoi officials shut down the celebrated stretch of railway last weekend, citing safety concerns as the main reason.

Chris Humphrey

in Music & Arts

[Photos] QUA, a New Exhibition Space and Art Center, Opens Within HRC

Following the opening of Manzi’s new exhibition space, another new cultural space, ‘QUA,’ opened its doors last weekend within Hanoi Rock City.

in Hanoi

Central Hanoi Streets Blocked Off for Construction of Metro Line

Expect traffic woes for the foreseeable future due to metro construction.

in Hanoi

Hanoi Authorities Once Again Urge Removal of Railway Cafes

Hanoi's famous railway cafes have finally reached the end of the line, according to city officials.

in Music & Arts

A Look Inside Manzi's New Contemporary Art Exhibition Space

Manzi, one of Hanoi’s most well-known artistic hubs and a draw for creative crowds, is expanding.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: A Secret Garden Leads to a Haven for Hanoi's Young Creatives

Immediately after strolling through the gates of Café Tu Luc, a leafy new reality helps one feel at ease.

in Vietnam

Vietnam Has the Fewest Public Holidays in ASEAN, but That Might Change Soon

Vietnamese authorities are debating making changes to the nation's labor law in 2019.

Chris Humphrey

in Travel

[Photos] 'Living Hanoi' Series Delves Into the Capital's Eccentricities

Is there a photographic format more suitable for capturing Hanoi's abundantly complex and alluring culture than the crystalline clarity of medium format film?

in Hanoi

Hanoi's Plan to Add 4 Bus-Only Lanes Next Year Spurs Debate

Transport experts have pushed back against a plan to create four priority bus lanes next year.

in Development

Hanoi to Construct 3 New Bridges Across To Lich River

There's something lovely about being able to walk easily over a death-black river that reeks of the upcoming apocalypse. 

in Vietnam

Police Arrest Gang Leaders for Stealing Thousands of Dogs in Northern Vietnam

Police in Thanh Hoa Province have detained three members of a dog thief gang and rescued 51 stolen dogs.

in Hanoi

Hanoi to Add New Bus Routes to Boost Public Transport Access

The capital will add up to 30 new bus routes next year.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Cháo Sườn Proves Sometimes the Simplest Snacks Are the Most Satisfying

Hanoi’s summer days are unforgiving. On the most intense days, a bullish sun forms thick layers of heat between cement roads and tall, oppressive buildings. Yet here I was, standing in the epicenter o...

in Asia

A Malaysian NGO Has Started Running Deforestation Tours

Tourism has long been a capricious, shape-shifting beast. Its latest incarnation explores the damage humanity is doing to the natural world.

in Hanoi

Hanoi Aims to Eliminate Household Poverty by End of Year

Hanoi's municipal government aims to have no households in the city living below the poverty line by year's end.

in Music & Arts

Bac Ninh Art Residency Opens Call for Artists

In a country with relatively few artist-in-residence programs, live.make.share represents a rare opportunity for cultural symbiosis and artistic development by giving international artists the ch...

in Hanoi

Hanoi to Build 300 WiFi-Enabled Bus Shelters

As part of the city's effort to encourage public transportation usage, 300 new shelters will be built at bus stops.

Chris Humphrey

in Postcards

Hanoi Postcard No. 9: The Turtle God of Hồ Gươm

Hanoi's lakes, including Hồ Gươm, are brimming with fish, debris and memories of historical lore. 

in Hanoi

Hanoi Railway Launches New Site for Online Ticket Booking

Hanoi Railway (HARACO) and online payment provider NganLuong.vn have teamed up to offer a new online booking and payment site for train tickets.

in Hanoi

Free Heat Shelters Set up in Hanoi for Outdoor Workers

A German-funded project is providing free air-conditioned sites for people to escape the summer heat of Hanoi.

Chris Humphrey

in Music & Arts

[Photos] Sixty Square, Hanoi's Beloved Art Quarter, Reopens After Closure Earlier This Year

Upon opening at the beginning of 2018, Sixty Square thrilled Hanoi's young creative crowd. When it suddenly closed earlier this year, it left hearts broken. Now, they're back once again. 

in Hanoi

Hanoi Officials Consider Imposing Tolls to Limit Entry to Downtown Areas

Due to severe traffic, Hanoi is considering setting up automatic toll gates for downtown areas in order to reduce congestion.

in Environment

Amid Booming Investment, Pollution Elevates Cancer Rates in Vietnam's Villages

While Vietnam's rural areas continue to develop, expand and economically prosper, their environmental conditions have not necessarily improved.

in Vietnam

As Vietnam Gets Wealthier, Economic Inequality Worsens

According to the Ministry of Labor, Invalids and Social Affairs, economic inequality is worsening in Vietnam. 

in Vietnam

As Vietnam Gets Wealthier, Economic Inequality Also Gets Worse

According to the Ministry of Labor, Invalids and Social Affairs, economic inequality is worsening in Vietnam. 

in Vietnam

Water Shortage, Wildfires Ravage Central Provinces Amid Scorching Summer

Rising temperatures have prompted rising concern among Vietnamese residents as wildfires and water shortages impact central provinces. 

Chris Humphrey

in Music & Arts

LAKES’ Debut EP Is an Ambient Homage to Life in Hanoi

LAKES’ debut album draws inspiration as much from American electronic composer Tycho as it does from instrumental post-rock outfits, yet remains, thematically at least, firmly rooted in the Vietnamese...

Chris Humphrey

in Postcards

Hanoi Postcard No. 8: The Golden Hooves That Formed Ho Tay

Do you know how Hanoi’s greatest lake was formed?

Michael Tatarski

in Asia

Cambodia's Shocking Rates of Deforestation to Blame for Climate Emergency

As the impacts of climate change become more apparent worldwide, members of the public are connecting more weather events to the phenomenon.

in Hanoi

New Proposal Calls on Hanoi Businesses to Ditch Plastic Bags

A new proposal submitted by Hanoi authorities late last month calls on businesses involved in the production of plastic bags to drastically adjust their output.

in Literature

Turn Over a New Page in Hanoi's Hidden Libraries

I focused my attention on an amplifier lying on the shelf behind Hieu, the founder of Go West Library. He left his seat to retrieve a cable, and after returning he plugged his phone into the machine, ...

in Music & Arts

New Exhibition Aims to Expose the Environmental Harm of Consumerism

Let’s reduce waste! opened yesterday, is free to enter, and will run until August 31 at L’Espace.

in Hanoi

Hanoi Authorities Earmark Over $5m for Reducing Poverty

As part of an ongoing drive to minimize poverty in the capital and reduce the number of poor households to zero by the end of this year, Hanoi authorities have outlined a set of funding for initiative...

Chris Humphrey

in Asia

[Photos] How One of Malaysia’s Last Nomadic Tribes Suffers From Societal Neglect

The semi-nomadic Batek, who live in Kuala Koh Village beside Peninsular Malaysia’s Taman Negara National Park, made global headlines recently after their community was torn apart by pollution, disease...

in Hanoi

Hanoi Applies for Recognition as UNESCO Creative City

As part of the capital’s ongoing efforts to bolster the city’s global standing, authorities are developing a dossier to submit for Hanoi’s recognition as a UNESCO creative city.

Michael Tatarski

in Environment

How Vietnam's Robusta Farms Could Transform Into Vital Carbon Sinks

Coffee is one of Vietnam’s most important agricultural products, a crop that grows so well in the country’s Central Highlands that it has become the world’s second-largest coffee producer.

Chris Humphrey

in Travel

[Photos] Capturing the Unexpected Amid Vietnam’s Mountainous Landscapes

The Taj Mahal, the Eiffel Tower, a smiling lady in a conical hat: human nature practically guarantees that even the most iconic image will eventually turn stale through proliferation. These depictions...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Come for the Coffee, Stay for the Aesthetic

Apparently, the owners of Chon want people to find their café. However, you wouldn’t assume as much when attempting to navigate the narrow, snaking alleyways that lead to their joint. You’ll find a do...

in Hanoi

Will CCTV Around Hoan Kiem Lake Reduce Littering on Pedestrianized Streets?

Hanoi authorities are trialing a new system that aims to prevent littering in the city center.

Chris Humphrey

in Music & Arts

[Video] Ha Giang Rap Video is an Earnest Call for Mental Health Awareness

In 2012, Ian Paynton’s catchy rap track ‘Oi Gioi Oi’ went viral. Now he’s back with a cinematic video, shot in Ha Giang, that calls out for mindfulness in the age of digital addiction.

in Stories

Holiday Stories Roundup: Hanoi Metro Inauguration Delayed Yet Again

Stay connected with Saigoneer on Twitter and Instagram and like us on Facebook. Each morning, we select some of the most important stories from the capital, the rest of Vietn...

in Environment

Japan to Help Clean Hanoi's Polluted To Lich River

Hanoi’s To Lich River is known for its heady fragrance and death-black palette, but that could all be about to change.

in Vietnam

Hai Phong to Build Vietnam's First Road Made From Recycled Plastic

In an attempt to lessen Vietnam’s alarming rates of plastic waste, reduce pressure on landfills and increase sustainability, Hai Phong plans to begin using recycled plastic to create roads.

in Stories

Weekend New Roundup: Hanoi Plays Host to Vietnam Grand Prix Kick-Off Event

Stay connected with Saigoneer on Twitter and Instagram and like us on Facebook. Each morning, we select some of the most important stories from the capital, the rest of Vietn...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: The Deep-Fried Satisfaction of Steamy Bánh Gối

Thanks to being born and bred in Hanoi, I definitely have a love-hate relationship with the city. That said, there are more “loves” than “hates” on my list, and street food in Hanoi plays a huge part ...

Chris Humphrey

in Music & Arts

[Video] Introducing Rooftop Concerts, Saigoneer's New Live Music Series

It is with unrelenting pride and excitement that we can finally introduce Rooftop Concerts, our new live music video series inspired by the likes of Tiny Desk Concerts and La Blogotheque. 

in Hanoi

Hanoi Authorities Say Motorbike Ban Yet to be Officially Approved

Nguyen Duc Chung, the Hanoi chairman, has suggested the city’s long-discussed motorbike ban remains merely a proposal and has not been officially approved.

Chris Humphrey

in Music & Arts

[Photos] Digging Into Hanoi's Emerging Street Art Scene

Street art in the Vietnamese capital remains a nascent scene, yet it is growing swiftly, with both Vietnamese and foreign artists in the mix.

in Culture

The Pink, Minimalist Aesthetic Enticing Hanoi's Millennials

At the intersection between Hang Bong and Phung Hung streets, there is a bakery whose lavender armchairs look as if they are made from giant ladyfingers. It’s called Baked by Julie and, since ope...

in Hanoi

New Swan Boat Ride-Hailing App, SwanGo, to Take Off in Hanoi Next Month

Ever since the departure of Uber in 2018, Vietnam’s ride-hailing market has seen a plethora of new additions, both Vietnamese and foreign. Yet this latest arrival, SwanGo, appears likely to enter stra...

in Hanoi

From 2020, Hanoi to Limit Registration of New Motorbikes

As part of continuing efforts to mitigate the capital’s growing traffic woes, Hanoi authorities are considering limiting the registration of new motorbikes in certain areas of the city.

in Hanoi

Construction Begins on Hanoi's Formula One Racetrack

After a prolonged period of speculation, Formula One officials finally confirmed last November that Hanoi will host an annual Grand Prix, with the first race set to take place next year.  

in Asia

Hanoi's Legendary Pho Thin Opens Restaurant in Tokyo

Nguyen Trong Thin opened Pho Thin back in 1979. Since then, its reputation has grown steadily. Now, he’s set up his first franchise in Tokyo.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Sumptuous Xôi From One of Hanoi's Friendliest Street Food Vendors

If you live in Vietnam, then you’ll already know how vital rice is here, and the role it plays in almost every meal we eat.

in Hanoi

In Response to Spread of African Swine Fever, Hanoi Schools Ban Pork

Due to the increasing spread of African swine fever, a number of schools in Hanoi have placed a temporary ban on serving pork to students.

in Music & Arts

Abstract Art Exhibition Examines Rural-Urban Divide From Two Perspectives

On February 20, VICAS Art Studio opened its latest exhibition, the endearingly named ‘EM CHÀO CÁC BÁC!’ (‘HI THERE, CITY FOLKS!’) Featuring new paintings from artists Doan Xuan Tung and Nguyen Nghia C...

Chris Humphrey

in Music & Arts

[Video] Paying Tribute to Quán Cầm, 60 Square With Những Đứa Trẻ

Earlier this month, Hanoians were left heartbroken when waving farewell to much-loved art quarter Sixty Square, which closed for good on February 15. We're releasing this music video of ...

Chris Humphrey

in Postcards

Hanoi Postcard No. 7: The 5th Season

Between autumn's cinnamon light and spring’s galvanic skies, a new season gathers. Formed by human hands, it is capricious at best, invasive at worst. It adheres to no calendar, yet lives in all of us...

Chris Humphrey

in Culture

Scaling the Dragon: An Urbexer's Guide to Long Bien Bridge

Urban exploration, urbex or UE, is a form of recreational urban trespass. Urbexers find a way into anything from derelict theme parks, sewers and asylums to factories, skyscrapers, missile silos and p...

in Vietnam

African Swine Fever Ravages Hai Phong’s Pigs

The Year of the Pig has just begun, but already pigs are dying. In northern Vietnam’s port city of Hai Phong, African swine fever, an incurable disease, has led to the deaths of 35 pigs on one farm al...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Vintage Sound Systems and Birds of Prey Coexist in Café Nhac Xua

A quaint melody drifts out of Nhac Xua and over to one side of West Lake, where café owner Nguyen Duy Binh and I sit. The calming, classical, Vietnamese-style guitar-driven music, is soothing.

Chris Humphrey

in Travel

[Photos] The Poetry of Everyday Life in Vietnam's Coastal Towns

Traveling south through central Vietnam by train can bring you to the familiar or the obscure: the Disney-fication of Hoi An, the peaceful bays of Quy Nhon, or the thrill of derelict spaces in Hue.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: The Dish That Smells Like Regret but Tastes Like Happiness

If you’re a food lover, there is one dirt-cheap, aromatic Hanoi snack that you must try: bún đậu mắm tôm.

Chris Humphrey

in Travel

[Photos] Ha Giang: Evocative Portraits From Hoang Su Phi

Nestled amid the textured, corduroy rice terraces of Ha Giang Province lies Hoang Su Phi, a rural district that’s home to an array of ethnic minority communities.

in Music & Arts

Popular Art Quarter Sixty Square to Close this Month

The Year of the Pig begins with some sad news for Hanoi’s creative youth. This month will see the closure of one the city’s most popular art quarters. 60 Square, which reopened after the Tet holiday y...

Khoi Pham

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Crispy Fried Eels Complete This Warming Winter Soup

I am Hanoi’s hungriest tourist; and the capital welcomes me into its flavorsome, umami-rich warmth with open arms.

in Hanoi

Tet Traffic Blamed for Hanoi's 'Very Unhealthy' Air Quality

Dangerous smog has throttled the nation's capital in recent days in part due to traffic related to the upcoming lunar new year. 

Chris Humphrey

in Travel

[Photos] Exploring the Myriad Cathedrals of Nam Dinh Province

Though they receive more attention, the cathedrals of Hanoi and Saigon pale in comparison to those found in Nam Dinh Province. What’s more, the area not only boasts a surprising array of these magnifi...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: De Tam Café Adds a Contemporary Touch to a Familiar Retro Aesthetic

As soon as you walk into De Tam’s leafy entrance courtyard, a familiar vintage theme becomes apparent. An entire wall is covered in shelves containing over 100 film cameras and lenses, while record pl...

in Environment

Climate Change Is Forcing People Out of the Mekong Delta

The Vietnamese Mekong Delta is one of Earth’s most agriculturally productive regions and is of global importance for its exports of rice, shrimp, and fruit. The 18m inhabitants of this low-lying river...

in Hanoi

In 2018, Over 26m Tourists Visited Hanoi

The number of tourists visiting Vietnam in 2018 represented a 9.3% increase from 2017.

in Health

Across All Vietnam, Hanoians Expected to Live the Longest

According to the latest official statistics, Hanoi currently boasts the nation's longest life expectancy.

in Hanoi

Hanoi Mulls Use of GPS Dog Tags to Prevent Theft

Hanoi’s recently launched campaign against dog meat continues to develop, as public officials consider implementing a new proposal in an attempt to reduce dog theft in the city.

in Development

Hanoi to Construct Waste-to-Electricity Processing Plants in Response to Growing Trash Issues

In an effort to solve Hanoi’s growing trash problem, the city plants to build multiple waste-processing plants that will convert trash into electricity.

in Stories

Weekened Stories Roundup: Golden Ball Award, French Film Week and Indonesian Tsunami

Stay connected with Saigoneer on Twitter and Instagram and like us on Facebook. Each morning, we select some of the most important stories from the capital, the rest of Vietn...

Chris Humphrey

in Postcards

Hanoi Postcard No. 6: Hoa Sữa by Any Other Name Would Still Smell as Caustic

The fragrance of hoa sữa, or milk flower, is so deeply embedded in the mythology of Hanoi’s autumnal days that singers, poets and authors alike have all sung its praises.

in Hanoi

In Ba Vi, Foot and Mouth Outbreak Affects Nearly 300 Pigs

The highly contagious foot and mouth disease (FMD) has broken out among livestock just 90 minutes outside of central Hanoi, in Ba Vi District. 

in Hanoi

Hanoi to Fill Canals, Widen Roads in Preparation for Formula 1 Race

Now that Hanoi is officially hosting a Formula 1 Grand Prix in 2020, the city is to undergo massive infrastructural development in preparation for the event.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Cu Xa, the Cafe That Awakens Your Childhood Self

“Where is home?” is a question that at some point has probably nagged everyone who feels caught between worlds. To the owner of a retro cafe in Hanoi’s southern Dong Da District, it’s Cu Xa.

in Environment

Hanoi Aims to Drastically Reduce Plastic Bag Use

Are you tired of seeing plastic everywhere? 

Chris Humphrey

in Travel

[Photos] Reaping the Rice Harvest in Mu Cang Chai

Each September, the rice fields of Mu Cang Chai turn ripe and as gold as coins, and then the back-breaking work begins.

Chris Humphrey

in Music & Arts

Q&A: Six Austin, Texas Musicians on the Excitement of Playing Quest Festival

Quest Festival is just around the corner, and this year sees a curious new addition – Project ATX6, a music documentary project that sends six emerging Austin musicians to perform at three internation...

in Hanoi

New Study Claims Hanoi Is Among the Least Sustainable Cities in the World

The recently published Sustainable Cities Index compared the sustainability of 100 cities around the world. What determines a cities sustainability? Researchers at Arcadis, a consultancy firm headquar...

Chris Humphrey

in Music & Arts

In Bac Ninh, New Residency Program Unites International Artists With Local Artisans

In a country with surprisingly few artist-in-residence programs, live.make.share represents a rare opportunity for cultural symbiosis and artistic development by giving international artists the chanc...

in Hanoi

Hanoi to Create Over $1bn Worth of New Parking Spaces

Hanoi is aiming to create around 1,500 new parking spaces over the next seven years to help deal with overcrowding at the city’s existing parking lots.

Chris Humphrey

in Music & Arts

The Children: Earnestness, Heartbreak and Acceptance on Debut Album ‘Con Duong’

On their debut album, Con Đường, the much loved Hanoi outfit bring a darker yet more mature sound that speaks as much about the depths of heartbreak and loss as it does hope.

Chris Humphrey

in Postcards

Hanoi Postcard No. 5: A Real Cold Fish

This week’s postcard is based on a real-life event: a sweet, thoughtful gesture that turned distinctly fishy.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Ingenuity Meets Tradition at Phở Cuốn Hung Ben

As traditional and unchanging as Hanoi’s cuisine may seem to visitors, creativity can still be found below the surface. Every now and then, a novel dish catches on and becomes the talk of the town, an...

Chris Humphrey

in Culture

[Photos] The Unbridled Joy of Hanoi’s Walking Streets

In a claustrophobic city where cramped houses huddle shoulder-to-shoulder and roads resemble battlegrounds, walking streets provide a rare breathing space for people used to clamor. More importantly, ...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Autumnal Golden Hours Are the Key Ingredient in Cô Thoa’s Bún Bò Nam Bộ

Hanoi’s fascination with bún is endless. There are more varieties in this city than anywhere else in Vietnam. Bún has a lot more to offer than phở, especially as it can be served cool and dry, as seen...

Chris Humphrey

in Society

Q&A: New British Ambassador Gareth Ward on Improving Education, Inspire Me Festival and Human Trafficking

Gareth Ward took up his role as the British Ambassador this July. He’s already enamored himself to the Vietnamese public on social media through his Vietnamese language skills, and photos of him havin...

Chris Humphrey

in Postcards

Hanoi Postcard No. 4: The Nudists of Banana Island

The naked truth awaits those who venture beneath Long Bien Bridge…

in Hanoi

Hanoi Streets to Close for President Tran Dai Quang’s Funeral

Earlier this week, Vietnam declared a two-day state funeral for late President Tran Dai Quang.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: At Tropical Forest, Coworkers and Plants Thrive in a Unique Ecosystem

Tropical Forest isn’t one of those adorable coffee shops you find hidden away in one of Hanoi’s many pokey alleyways. In fact, it’s quite the opposite – its large glass presence resembles a giant terr...

Chris Humphrey

in Culture

[Photos] Wild Celebrations Follow Vietnam’s Quarter-Final Victory Against Syria

Last night, Vietnam beat Syria 1-0, taking them into the semi-finals of the Asian Games for the first time in history.

Chris Humphrey

in Culture

[Photos] Manga Costumes and Virtual Idols at Japanese Cosplay Festival

Last weekend, the Ichigo Ichie 2018 Japanese Culture Festival - Kamisama & Yokai, which took place at Hanoi Children's Cultural Center, brought gloriously eccentric cosplay characters to the capital.

Chris Humphrey

in Music & Arts

Interactive Art Installation ‘Synescape: Please Touch’ Enthralls the Senses

Anita Wilczęga sits on a stool in Tinh Dau art studio, trying to explain the final project she’ll curate in Vietnam before departing for Italy. Behind her, ten white boxes hang from the rafters, swayi...

in Hanoi

Nhan Chinh Park to Open on September 10, Brings More Green Space to Hanoi

Located on Hoang Minh Giam Street, the park will be the first designated green space in Thanh Xuan District.

in Society

Hanoi’s Motorcycle Rescue Team Saves Motorists From Nighttime Breakdowns

Ever wanted someone to rescue you when you get a flat tire on a dark, rainy night?

Chris Humphrey

in Travel

[Photos] An Urbexer’s Paradise: Inside the Rides of Hanoi’s Abandoned Water Park

Almost everyone has, by now, heard of Hue’s apocalyptic abandoned waterpark – a place so eerie it feels like entering a Jurassic World sequel. Who knew there was another park right here in Hanoi?

in Development

Hanoi to Spend $2.6m Conserving Co Loa Historic Complex

The project includes the central Co Loa Citadel along with surrounding constructions in Co Loa, Duc Tu, Viet Hung and Uy No communes of Dong Anh District.

in Music & Arts

Sixty Square: Crumbling Colonial Buildings House Hanoi’s Hippest New Art Quarter

Ever since the closure of Zone 9, Hanoi’s young artists have been longing for a new spot to rise from the ashes and fill the hole the defunct art hub left in the capital's creative landscape. Creative...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Kamon – Authentic Japanese Cuisine Served With a Side of Persian Rugs

Tucked away amongst a row of cafes on Van Phuc Street is a curious Japanese restaurant – beneath the bright red KAMON sign above its entrance and the usual menus offering sashimi and sushi is an altog...

Thi Nguyen

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: The Delectable Comfort of Xuan Dieu's No-Name Bánh Đa Trộn

With most of my life having been spent living in Saigon, the concept of bánh đa was first introduced to me by a mass-produced instant crab noodle soup package. 

in Hanoi

Construction of Overpass on Au Co and Nghi Tam One Month Behind Schedule

On July 25, the Hanoi People’s Committee urged contractors to address construction problems and complete the overpass, which is already one month behind schedule.

Chris Humphrey

in Literature

Alain de Botton Visits Vietnam: 'What I Want to Argue Is That Romanticism Has Been a Disaster for Love.'

It’s not often that a philosopher of Alain de Botton’s status visits Vietnam, so it was no surprise that all 50 seats on the upper floor of Toong Coworking Space were occupied, with most tickets snapp...

Chris Humphrey

in Postcards

Hanoi Postcard No. 3: The Right Side of the Tracks

The third entry in the Hanoi Postcards series, our love notes to the city we call home, depicts a unique neighborhood. 

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Steamed Hai Phong Rice Cakes at Banh Beo Cho Do

That the most delicious food in Vietnam is usually found on top of shabby plastic tables is an incontrovertible truth. So much so that modernity has done something strange: we feel skeptical when seei...

in Hanoi

Hanoi's Air Quality Improves in First Week of July

Hanoi's air pollution has turned itself around, with Hanoi recording a high number of "good" days in the first week of July.

in Culture

Hanoi Gets Inked: Expo Showcases Vietnam’s Tattoo Boom

When Link Do was a child in Hanoi, she learned English from an American woman with a tattoo on her hand. Link, who loved to draw, thought the tattoo was beautiful, and began to imagine a future as an ...

Chris Humphrey

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Old Hanoi Aesthetics and Durian Milk-Tea at Cafe Minh

Whether a grey-eyed morning or a long-tailed dusk, it makes little difference in Café Minh. The windows, opaque from a history of cigarettes and road dust, barely let in any light. The groan of motorb...

Chris Humphrey

in Travel

[Photos] Exploring Dala Township on the River Yangon's South Shore

Only a 10-minute ferry ride from central Yangon, Dala is a blur of motorbike horns, trishaw drivers peddling scams and old ships rusting on the riverbank.

Chris Humphrey

in Postcards

Hanoi Postcard No. 2: Coming up Roses

Hanoi Postcards is our series of love notes to the city we call home. This second offering is of a flower seller cycling along with her florets. With sunlight shining through an audience of trees, her...

Chris Humphrey

in Culture

[Photos] In Tho Ha Village, Locals Work From Dawn to Create Rice Paper

A few hours after sunrise in the small village of Tho Ha, alleyways morph into picturesque tunnels of drying rice paper, while ladies toast crackers over fire in the streets. 

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Craft Beer and Deep Conversation in a Cargo Ship Container

From Pasteur Street to Standing Bar, the capital hides a plethora of hop spots, but its newest entrant might be the most unique.

Chris Humphrey

in Music & Arts

Sirens of Ha Long: Facetiousness and Vitriol on Debut EP ‘Rampant Happiness’

Having released Rampant Happiness, their debut EP, only a few weeks ago, and with a string of live shows lined up to debut upcoming music videos, Sirens of Ha Long are on the rise.  

Chris Humphrey

in Postcards

Hanoi Postcard No. 1: Hom Fabric Market

This week, Saigoneer is proud to announce a new series: beautifully crafted illustrations, in the form of postcards, celebrating everything we love about this city. Every couple of weeks, we’ll reveal...

Chris Humphrey

in Environment

Q&A: The Wisdom of Hanoi’s Weatherdude

With storm season a yearly occurrence in Vietnam, it's always a good time to sit down with the fount of climate knowledge that is Hanoi’s Weatherdude to learn about the atmospheric movements of our pl...

Chris Humphrey

in Travel

Soviet Accommodation, Forest Cabins and a Hobbit House: The Eccentricity of Nha Ben Rung

“It is a rocket center. The Soviets, they stayed there to control the rockets…” These are not exactly the kind of words you expect to hear from a homestay owner in northern Vietnam, especially not whe...

in Culture

A Visit to Hanoi's Birdsong Clubs: Have You Heard the Call of the Oriental White-Eye?

Birdsong clubs, a tradition originating from China, are one of Hanoi’s hidden gems. If you’re willing to really look for them, it’s possible to find huge collections of birds kept in finely decorated ...

in Culture

[Video] The Drag Queens Firing Up Hanoi's Nightlife

For over two months, a tantalizing new event has been firing up Hanoi's nightlife: drag queens in burlesque outfits death dropping on stage.

Chris Humphrey

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Homemade Chilli Sauce and Aromatic Broth at Ever-Moving Spicy Pho Bay

Despite having changed locations twice in the last three years, Spicy Pho Bay remains one of Tay Ho’s most popular street food spots.

Chris Humphrey

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Duy Tri - One of Hanoi’s Original Cafes

Modern-day Hanoi is a labyrinth of new developments, with some areas already feeling the effects of gentrification. That certainly wasn't the case back in 1936, when Café Duy Tri first opened its door...

in Travel

Hanoi Makes TripAdvisor's List of Top 15 Global Destinations

On a new list of the world's top 15 destinations created by TripAdvisor, Hanoi ranks number 12. 

in Society

The Unseen Layers of Donkey Bakery

I almost missed the entrance to the bakery as its sign was partly obscured by a leafy tree. I skidded to a stop and hurried in to my appointment. Behind the counter, a manager was speaking in hushed, ...

Chris Humphrey

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Tender Strips of Garlic-Infused Beef at Pho Thin

In the midst of a Hanoian winter, all you want is warmth. The houses aren't built for the cold, and on a bike at night, the chill seeps right into you. At lunch or after work, there's nothing better t...

Chris Humphrey

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Refreshing Cocktails at Hanoi’s Best Hole-in-the-Wall

Bars in Hanoi don’t come much smaller than Dot. Its width is no more than the span of my arms, but what it lacks in size it more than makes up for in value and substance. You’d barely notice the place...

Chris Humphrey

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Yen Phu's Banh Xeo Spot Is Legit

Any street food restaurant you regularly pass on your commute, or that lies within the local area where you live, is likely to receive your patronage more often than most. Minh Banh Xeo is no exceptio...

Chris Humphrey

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Vegan Buffet, Nourishment That Makes You Feel Good

Anyone who’s lived in Vietnam for any reasonable length of time will have heard of cơm bình dân – rice buffets offering an abundance of meat and vegetables during lunch hours. In recent years, however...

Chris Humphrey

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Trainspotting and Nostalgia at The Railway Hanoi

The stretch of railway between Tran Phu Street and Dien Bien Phu Street is quickly becoming one of the hippest spots in Hanoi. In the last couple of years, a social enterprise named Zo Project, a fash...

Chris Humphrey

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Cuoi Ngo – One of Hanoi’s Most Hidden Cafés

If you’ve managed to find Cafe Cuoi Ngo, then you deserve to see it. The place feels like a well-kept secret, but it’s so hard to find that I don’t think publishing this article will overburden the sp...

Chris Humphrey

in Music & Arts

An Unexpected Makeover of Hanoi's Old Quarter

In the spring of 2017, Scott Matt became a celebrity in Vietnam overnight. Known as ông Tây râu xồm (the Bearded Westerner), he appeared in news outlets and on various TV channels, all because he...

in Culture

22 Head-Spinning Vietnamese Tongue Twisters

Due to its six tones, Vietnamese is far from the easiest language to learn. In case you wanted to further confound yourself, here's a list of 22 Vietnamese tongue twisters that will have even some Vie...