Ngõ Nooks: The Quiet Intimacy of Tree Bar, Where Strangers Become Fast Friends
A group of patrons gossip in thick, fast Japanese. They might all know each other or they might just speak to anyone at the bar as if they already know them. The wizened “master” joins in from his per...
Ngõ Nooks: Nourishment for the Soul at Canh Bún Nguyễn Siêu
Eating canh bún is akin to going for a walk on a clear day as sunset melts over the city; it costs almost nothing yet nourishes the soul.
Chris Humphrey in Travel
The Majesty of Crossing Myanmar on Colonial-Era Trains
Whether on the slow train carving its way through the Shan Hills near Kalaw, the Mandalay to Yangon Express, or the 4am train to Hsipaw that crosses the great Goteik Viaduct, traversing Myanmar on gri...
Chris Humphrey in Society
The Rustic Beauty of Hanoi's Red River Brick Factories
Living in a city as culturally rich and absorbing as Hanoi, it’s not unusual to discover new secrets in a place you thought you knew completely. The depth of the capital really is astounding. And yet,...
Ngõ Nooks: Căng Tin Cafe, a Gateway to the Past for the City's New Youth
Hanoi’s café scene is saturated with cafés selling a vision of the past.
Hanoi Starts Revoking Operating Licenses of Cafes on 'Train Street' This Week
Hanoi is shutting down its infamous "Train Street" starting this weekend.
Ngõ Nooks: A Spicy Bún Lòng Cá From Hải Phòng That Takes Guts to Try
Út Hà Quán looks nothing like the kind of traditional Hanoi street food eatery that makes it to glossy magazines and world-famous food channels. There’s no grumpy grandma, no mold on the walls an...
Ever Wonder What Happens to Your Plastic Bags? Ask Vietnam's Ve Chai Army.
Lacking an effective official scheme, Hanoi relies on an army of informal workers to recycle its waste — a situation that hasn't changed over the last four decades.
Chris Humphrey in Culture
At Hanoi's Thousand-Year-Old Flute Kite Festival, Melodies and Prayers Cross the Sky
Passed down by village forefathers since the Dinh Dynasty, Ba Duong Noi Village’s kite festival has become a source of pride for the local community. With three bamboo flutes attached to each kite, it...
Chris Humphrey in Society
Q&A: Blue Dragon Co-CEO Skye Maconachie on How the Pandemic Affects Vietnam's Most Vulnerable
Saigoneer talks to Skye Maconachie, Co-CEO of Blue Dragon Children’s Foundation, a respected, Hanoi-based NGO known for rescuing victims of human trafficking and supporting street kids in the capital....
Hanoi Allows Restaurants, Cafes to Reopen at 50% Capacity
Starting today, patrons can visit their favorite restaurants and cafes again.
Chris Humphrey in Asia
Inside Cambodia's Floating Village, Where 40% of People Are Ethnic Vietnamese
Chong Kneas floating village, only 15 kilometers south of Siem Reap, is one of hundreds that line Tonle Sap Lake. Tens of thousands of families live in these clustered homes, around 40% of whom are Vi...
Chris Humphrey in Music & Arts
Review: On Debut EP 'Low,' Ho Tram Anh Sings Like a Poet Laureate for the Disconnected
Is anyone else in Hanoi creating music as stark and affecting as Ho Tram Anh?
Q&A: In Conversation With 'The Future Cries Beneath Our Soil' Director Phạm Thu Hằng
Do communities inherit the sorrows of war? Is trauma re-experienced by the sons and daughters of those who suffered? How does life prevail amidst the normalization of loss? Pham Thu Hang’s debut film,...
Vietnam's Childhood Obesity Rate Doubles Over 10 Years, Data Shows
Are Vietnamese children spending less time on active recreations and more at home?
Linh Pham in Music & Arts
On ‘Ếch Ếch Vol. 1,’ a Mosaic of Hanoi’s Underground Music Scene
Hardcore, indie, metal, folk? The latest compilation album emerging from the capital is as multifaceted as the city itself.
Vietnam Slightly Advances on UN Human Development Index to No. 117 of 189
Over the last 30 years, Vietnam's HDI (Human Development Index) has grown by 46%, amongst the biggest jump in the world.
Strong Cold Front to Hit Hanoi, Northern Provinces This Week
Time to break out your winter wardrobe.
Plan for 5 New Rail Lines Linking Saigon to Southern Provinces Approved
Go big or go home.
Saigon to Host Major Street Art Festival Next Year
Saigon is banking on the festival's success to draw international visitors back to the city after the COVID-10 pandemic subsides next year.
No Pets, No Vendors, No Vulgarities: Hanoi Proposes New Pedestrian Plaza Restrictions
The spacious pedestrian plaza in Hoan Kiem District has become a hot hangout for locals, but with that popularity also comes numerous nuisances.
Public Electric Bus Routes, Run by VinBus, May Be Coming to Hanoi
The routes would utilize electric buses manufactured by VinFast.
Vietnamese Youths Hardest-Hit by Employment Crisis During Covid-19 Pandemic
Unemployment amongst youths in Vietnam is expected to double as a result of the economic havoc caused by the global COVID-19 pandemic.
Hội An Restarts Social Distancing; Đà Nẵng Stops F&B Services, Including Takeaways
After Đà Nẵng, Hội An is the second city in Việt Nam to bring back social distancing measures after July’s coronavirus outbreak.
Cà Mau Announces $820m Plan to Fight Climate Change
Cà Mau is among localities in Vietnam most affected by erosion.
Tay Ho Alley Grapples With Trash Problem Caused by Photo-Seeking Visitors
Just the latest example of people ruining the very the beauty of a spot that drew them for its beauty.
Vietnam Reports Serious Spike in Waterway Accidents in First 5 Months of 2020
Vietnam has seen a dramatic rise in accidents, injuries and fatalities on its rivers in the first five months of the year.
Chris Humphrey in Music & Arts
Rooftop Concerts: Electronic Duo Tiny Giant Performs 'Air' (Live in Truc Bach)
Following Limebócx last year, Tiny Giant is now the third act to feature in Rooftop Concerts, Saigoneer's live music video series, and their haunting, dance-driven performance feels like the perfect s...
[Photos] Urbanist Travel Getaways: The Stillness of Kyoto's Fushimi Inari Taisha at Night
If you visited Kyoto but didn’t snap a snazzy shot of the seemingly infinite row of torii gates, did you really visit Kyoto? Or at least, that’s what common travel conventions seem to suggest.
Vietnam Wants You to Get Married Before 30, Bear 2 Children
In a move that will surely put a smile on the face of Vietnamese moms everywhere, the government recently announced an initiative to encourage local couples to tie the knot and start popping out child...
Hanoi Visitor Numbers Down 92% Over Holiday Weekend Compared to 2019
The recent national holiday weekend saw Hanoi's visitor numbers plummet in the face of the ongoing coronavirus pandemic.
Afro Mini Mart: What's Inside Vietnam’s First African Grocery Store?
At first glance, it looks just like any other convenience store. The same strings of Oishi shrimp snacks and revolving wire rack of Orion Marine Boys adorn either side of its entrance, just as they do...
Chris Humphrey in Travel
[Photos] Dangerous, Adorable, Bizarre: A Look at Japan's Time-Honored Art of Making Mochi
Frenetic, dangerous, absolutely bizarre… the time-honored art of pounding mochi, a simple Japanese glutinous rice desert, is as entertaining as it is ngon vãi chưởng.
Discrimination Against Foreigners on the Rise Amid Covid-19 Fears
After three weeks of no new virus cases in February, the majority of Vietnam’s 60 new cases have been linked to foreign tourists.
AirVisual Ranks Hanoi as World's 7th-Most Polluted Capital in 2019
According to a new report released by AirVisual, Hanoi ranked seventh on a list of the world’s most polluted capital cities in 2019.
Over 23,000 Drivers Fined for Driving Under Influence in First 2 Months of 2020
After the new bill on alcohol consumption was passed by the National Assembly, stricter regulations on driving after having consumed alcohol were enforced.
In Tình Đầu Exhibition Space, a Home for Hanoi's Bohemian Young Artists
Nestled deep within labyrinthine alleyways in Hanoi’s Ba Đình District, Tình Đầu (first love), a studio-gallery run by a collective of Vietnamese artists, is growing a reputation as a home for the cap...
Vietnam to Install Surveillance Cameras on Buses to Combat Sexual Harassment
A decree recently approved by Prime Minister Nguyen Xuan Phuc will make several changes to transportation services including the addition of surveillance cameras to 170,000 transportation vehicles.&nb...
Vietnam Sees Sharp Drop in Traffic Accidents in January Compared to 2019
During the four weeks leading up to Tet, the number of traffic accidents plummeted across Vietnam, a positive sign considering those also made up the country’s busiest period.
Vietnam Will Have Harsher Dry Season, Fewer Typhoons in 2020, Experts Say
The harsh dry season is predicted to impact all three regions of the country.
Vietnam-China Train Stopped in its Tracks Amid Ongoing Virus Fears
For the first time in 11 years, the train crossing the border from Vietnam into China will stop running amid continuing coronavirus concerns.
Northern Vietnam Just Had the Hottest Start to a Year in 5 Decades
Is it just us, or is it a little hot in here?
Step Inside Quốc Hương, the Centuries-Old Store Home of Chả and Bánh Chưng
For around 200 years, Quoc Huong store has been selling sumptuous meat delicacies to hungry Hanoians.
Starting This Month, Hanoians Can Travel All the Way to Beijing by Train
The service began on January 1.
Should Hanoi Release Doves on Hoan Kiem Lake’s Walking Streets?
The suggestion is Hanoi’s latest attempt to introduce wildlife to the Hoan Kiem Lake area.
Singaporean Scientists Find New Way to Break Down Plastic
It's a brave new world.
Ngõ Nooks: Rice Dumplings With Bean Paste, Grated Coconut and Fiery Ginger Syrup
Bánh trôi tàu are elongated rice dumplings filled with mung bean paste, black sesame paste or grated coconut and served in a hot ginger syrup that warms one’s belly during cold winter months.
Hanoi's First 2 Metro Lines May Open by End of This Year
Let's begin the new year with updates from Hanoi's much-anticipated urban railway project.
Ngõ Nooks: Loading T Serves up Decadent Egg Coffee in a 1930s Architectural Gem
Travel back in time to a café within a charming 1930s building, only a few hundred meters away from St Joseph’s Cathedral.
New Law Requiring Humane Treatment of Livestock to Take Effect From Jan 1
The Law on Animal Husbandry includes a number of regulations aimed at creating safe animal husbandry conditions, as well as more humane treatment for animals.
Morning Stories Roundup: Pollution-Hit Hanoi Resorts to Water Trucks to Wash Away Dust
Stay connected with Saigoneer on Twitter and Instagram and like us on Facebook. Each morning, we select some of the most important stories from the capital, the rest of Vietn...
Chris Humphrey in Culture
[Photos] The Naked Truth Behind Hanoi's 'Banana Island' Nudists
Hanoi is a conservative capital where young couples rarely kiss in public, yet along the banks of the Red River, a men's nudist club thrives.
Hanoi Again Considers Banning 3-Wheel Rickshaws, Xích Lô
How will sunburned tourists get around?
Saigon Announces Plan for 150-Hectare Multi-Purpose Park in D12
The park will be located in Thanh Xuan and Thoi An wards.
Almost 3,500 Vietnamese Trafficked Since 2013, Government Says
The statistics come in the wake of 39 Vietnamese nationals being found dead in a container truck in southeast England.
Chris Humphrey in Postcards
Hanoi Postcard No. 10: Capital City Claustrophilia
Cramped alleyways thread through the heart of Hanoi’s Old Quarter like arteries, carrying not just people and goods, but also intrigue and fear.
Proposed Hai Phong–China Train Route Raises Concerns Over Hefty Price Tag
From Hai Phong, the 390-kilometer line would run through Hanoi and Lao Cai before reaching China’s Hekou County.
Chris Humphrey in Music & Arts
Rooftop Concerts: Limebócx – 'Yêu Nhau (Qua Cầu Gió Bay)
Rooftop Concerts, Saigoneer's live music video series, is finally back; this time featuring electronic duo Limebócx, one of the most promising new acts in the capital's underground music scene.
Morning Stories Roundup: Visa Exemptions Set to Expire for Seven Major Tourism Markets
Stay connected with Saigoneer on Twitter and Instagram and like us on Facebook. Each morning, we select some of the most important stories from the capital, the rest of Vietn...
New Wastewater Discharge Fee Proposed for Hanoi Residents
If approved, the fee will be implemented in 12 of the capital's 27 districts.
Environment Ministry Officials Propose Plastic Bag Tax
Would it help break Vietnam's plastic addiction?
Fourth Person Dies of Swine Flu This Year, Dozens Quarantined
A Buddhist nun in the Central Highlands died of swine flu on Tuesday, bringing the total number of deaths caused by the disease this year to four.
JICA Suggests Urban Railways Could Help Reduce Air Pollution in Hanoi, Saigon
The Japan International Cooperation Agency (JICA) is helping authorities to develop a measuring, reporting and verification system for Vietnam’s urban railway systems.
JICA Suggests Urban Railway Could Help Reduce Air Pollution in Saigon, Hanoi
The Japan International Cooperation Agency (JICA) is helping authorities to develop a measuring, reporting and verification system for Vietnam’s urban railway systems.
Hanoi Should Clamp Down on Single-Use Plastic, Experts Say
In a meeting last Friday, experts warned Hanoi authorities about the city’s growing plastic waste problem.
Chris Humphrey in Environment
The Campaign Aiming to End Vietnam's Gruesome Buffalo Fights
Sharpened horns, gashed eyes and slashed skin are hallmarks of buffalo fighting festivals that animal rights organizations are trying to close down.
To Combat Smog, Hanoi to Ban Coal Stoves From 2021
The move is part of a major effort to improve air quality and living conditions in the capital.
Vietnam Needs Large-Scale Recycling Using Plastic Waste as Resource, Official Says
On October 22, a conference on preventing plastic waste was held in Hanoi by the Vietnam Association for Community Health Education (VACHE), which presented potential amendments to the current environ...
Ngõ Nooks: Silken Tofu and Velvety Dumplings at Hanoi’s Most Authentic Chinese Eatery
I’ve long searched for an authentic Chinese restaurant in Hanoi that makes good dumplings — one of the most comforting foods to come out of northern China.
Hanoi's First Metro Line Begins 20-Day Trial Run
The Cat Linh-Ha Dong metro line has commenced a 20-day commercial trial run despite renewed reports earlier this week of the line being delayed for the ninth time.
Plan to Permanently Pedestrianize 9 Streets Around Hoan Kiem Lake Grows Clearer
A number of Hanoi’s hugely popular walking streets may soon become permanently pedestrianized.
Hanoi's Cat Linh-Ha Dong Metro Line Delayed Again
According to reports, this is the ninth time the line has been delayed.
Major Extensions Considered for Several Metro Lines
While no sections of Hanoi's metro system are operational yet, city officials are already planning massive extensions for future lines.
Chris Humphrey in Travel
Is This Really the End of the Line for Hanoi’s ‘Train Street’?
Hanoi officials shut down the celebrated stretch of railway last weekend, citing safety concerns as the main reason.
Chris Humphrey in Music & Arts
[Photos] QUA, a New Exhibition Space and Art Center, Opens Within HRC
Following the opening of Manzi’s new exhibition space, another new cultural space, ‘QUA,’ opened its doors last weekend within Hanoi Rock City.
Central Hanoi Streets Blocked Off for Construction of Metro Line
Expect traffic woes for the foreseeable future due to metro construction.
