Khôi Phạm in Food Culture
From Kuy Teav to Hủ Tiếu: How a Phnom Penh Classic Became Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang
Originally from Cambodia, made popular by Chinese vendors and enjoyed by local diners, hủ tiếu Nam Vang captures the essence of Vietnamese history in one hearty bowl of noodles.
Khôi Phạm in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: A Streetcart Named Aoya and the Comfort of Sidewalk Ramen
The first time I tried to visit Aoya Ramen was on a Monday. The pavement where the stall should be was empty, without any trace of noodles or noren. I learned quickly that they’re closed on Mondays. T...
Khôi Phạm in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: An Alternative Cao Lầu in Saigon for Full-Topping Eaters
If I have to use one word to describe the food philosophy of Saigoneers, it would be maximalist. Those who have had the gluttonous joy of hunkering down on a plastic chair on the sidewalk and demolish...
Hẻm Gems: A Long-Anticipated Bowl of D10's Pre-Eminent Mì Vịt Tiềm
Rarely have I gone into a meal with such anticipation.
Hẻm Gems: In a D3 Hẻm, 40 Years of Bún Ốc and Other Northern Treats
As a resident of Saigon, I’m well-acquainted with the city's vibrant food scene, which features cuisines from various regions of Vietnam, and how these dishes blend local recipes with flavors that res...
Hẻm Gems: Hủ Tíu Mực Ông Già's Squid Game Is to Die For
It’s safe to say that one of the most authentic culinary experiences one could have in Vietnam is to sit on a stool, in an eatery that feels very much like someone’s house, and slurp on a bowl of pipi...
Meet the Hội An Family Making Cao Lầu Noodles From Scratch
Amid Hội An’s treat-filled culinary landscape, cao lầu emerges as something that’s both simple and one-of-a-kind.
Hẻm Gems: It's Impossible to Resist Bún Riêu Cô Yến's Crispy Fried Tofu
A few years ago, my family’s Christmas Eve tradition of making gỏi cuốn was swapped out for a special competition, one that would decisively end a longstanding rivalry: who, out of the aunts and uncle...
The Charming 1990s Nostalgia in the Phim Mì Ăn Liền Cinematic Universe
If you lurk around online discussions of Vietnamese cinema, you probably have stumbled upon the term phim mì ăn liền, or “instant noodles films.” This popular Vietnamese expression describes local mot...
Hẻm Gems: Wake up Early, We're Getting Hủ Tiếu Cá for Breakfast
When I used to live in Hanoi, I always knew that if an eatery only opens for half a day, the food is probably certified, at least by the locals, to be not only good, but excellent. There is something ...
Hẻm Gems: On Falling Head Over Heels (Literally) for Dũng Ký's Mì Xào Giòn
When Saigoneer’s office relocated from District 1’s downtown to District 3 earlier this year, one of the instantly noticeable changes was the increase in affordable eating options.
Paul Christiansen in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: From Cà Mau, Cô Xíu Brings Bánh Tầm Cà Ri Cay to Bình Thạnh
Recently, I’ve had the Mekong Delta on the mind. This month I made two trips down to research various elements of the watery region, and also spent time reading author Khải Đơn’s tremendous delta-focu...
Hẻm Gems: Bánh Đa Cua Hải Phòng, a Rare Northern Treat in D10
On the way to Phú Thọ Indoor Sports Stadium in District 11, make a turn off 666/74 Ba Tháng Hai, go all the way to the far corner, and you’ll discover Triển Chiêu Quán’s bright yellow sign. Park under...
Hẻm Gems: Bánh Canh Hẹ Is Phú Yên's Homage to Chives and the Sea
Ever since I was a kid, I have had a general dislike towards vegetables, but green onion has always been an exception. I regard green onion as a garnish that can lighten up the whole dish, and it seem...
Khôi Phạm in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: The Best Cao Lầu Outside of Hội An Is in Tân Bình
Years ago, the first time I ate cao lầu, I committed a cardinal sin. As I gazed upon my freshly assembled bowl of noodles, without much thought, I asked the waitress for more sauce.
Khôi Phạm in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: What Bún Cua Gia Lai Taught Me About Vietnam's Bond With Bún
Not being a picky eater was somewhat of a personal point of pride for me growing up. I have my family to thank for this, as their immense patience and open-mindedness have encouraged me to explore as ...
Khôi Phạm in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: From Nghệ An, a Turmeric-Tinged Miến Lươn Feast in D7
Once upon a time, deep in the distant kingdom of District 7, there was a miến lươn place.
Khôi Phạm in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: A Trip to Bàn Cờ for Lạng Sơn’s Sweet and Sour Dry Phở
There’s not much you can say about phở that hasn't already been said. From its complicated origin to its deliciousness to its ubiquity on Saigon’s streets, the subject has been covered ...
Ngõ Nooks: Nourishment for the Soul at Canh Bún Nguyễn Siêu
Eating canh bún is akin to going for a walk on a clear day as sunset melts over the city; it costs almost nothing yet nourishes the soul.
Hẻm Gems: Dì Út Tells Her Family's Indian-Vietnamese Story via Tasty Bò Kho
The arrival of the rainy season in Saigon has left me craving for hot meals to beat the cold, damp weather. I was on my way home from work in the aftermath of a bout of rain one day and found myself i...
Hẻm Gems: At Bún Thang 50, Unexpected Hanoi Flavors in a Phú Nhuận Corner
When I was growing up in California, every couple of months, plastic containers of sliced fried egg, chicken, and chả lụa would line the kitchen counter. This medley of ingredients would usually mean ...
Khôi Phạm in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: The 40-Year-Old Phở Gà in Kỳ Đồng, Now Michelin-Approved
If you’re ever lost in District 3, Kỳ Đồng’s famous phở gà place will be the oasis you need in those trying times.
Khôi Phạm in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: At a Corner of Nguyễn Văn Linh, Saigon's Best Korean Cold Noodles
Much like a stereotypical meet-cute in a romantic comedy, the majority of my most memorable food experiences often involve a faux pas of varying degrees of humiliation.
The Good, the Fresh and the Crispy: Quy Nhơn's Wondrous Cuisine in 3 Dishes
A beautiful coastline, stunning rolling mountainscapes, and multiple historic vestiges are not the only merits of Quy Nhơn City.
Ngõ Nooks: Xóm Hạ Hồi's 30-Year-Old Bún Thang Stands the Test of Time
If you peel through the peaceful residential areas around the Quang Trung and Trần Hưng Đạo crossroads, you might just chance upon Bún Thang 11 Hạ Hồi, a humble, household noodle spot.
Ngõ Nooks: A Blissful Fish Feast at Bún Cá Sâm Cây Si
As hot as it gets, Hanoi’s scorching summer is no match for delightful fish rolls and refreshing sour soup.
Khôi Phạm in Culture
What to See, Taste, and Do If You Have a Free Morning in Tân Định
There’s not much you’ll need to do to persuade me to drive, walk, crawl, scuttle or skate along the Nhiêu Lộc-Thị Nghè Canal — I adore its shaded, tree-lined pavements that much.
Hẻm Gems: The Midnight Hủ Tiếu Only for Saigon's Most Patient Night Owls
As a Saigonese who has lived abroad for half of her life, I have a huge craving for hủ tiếu khô (dry noodles), my go-to breakfast meal and a dish my family always made sure to get on our way to my mot...
Khôi Phạm in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: From a Historic D5 Shophouse, An Duyên Serves up Tasty Chợ Lớn Classics
An Duyên Chợ Lớn transcends Chợ Lớn quán stereotypes of rustic mom-and-pops with rickety amenities to provide a comfortable dining experience, made memorable thanks to aesthetically pleasing décor and...
Khôi Phạm in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: Bún Bò Đà Nẵng Will Change How You Feel About Bún Bò in Saigon
Have you ever wondered who named our food? Oftentimes I do, and I daydream of traveling back in time to those monumental moments in the past when a famous dish or ingredient earned its title to slap s...
Hẻm Gems: In Đà Nẵng, Dì Gái's Bún Chả Cá Is a Family Heirloom
Sometimes, for descendants of Central Vietnam, a bowl of steaming bún chả cá can even sooth the pain and misery of a storm-battered rainy season.
A Singaporean-Vietnamese Couple Refreshes Hakka Offal Soup With Trứng Cuộn
When my mother, a native of Singapore’s oft-visited Chinatown, described a pork offal soup stall with meatballs that “tasted suspiciously like that vermicelli dish we had in Huế back in 2013,” I knew ...
Ngõ Nooks: From Nam Định, a Piquant Bánh Đa With Golden Fried Fish
On Quán Thánh Street, a lovely couple enhances their hometown’s specialty, bánh đa cua, with a fishy touch. Adding fried fish to bánh đa cua is a rather uncommon combination, but it helps their r...
Ngõ Nooks: A Spicy Bún Lòng Cá From Hải Phòng That Takes Guts to Try
Út Hà Quán looks nothing like the kind of traditional Hanoi street food eatery that makes it to glossy magazines and world-famous food channels. There’s no grumpy grandma, no mold on the walls an...
Ngõ Nooks: A Classic Thanh Trì-Style Bánh Cuốn That Took a Century to Perfect
Bánh Cuốn Bà Hoành is nearly a century old, and both the eatery’s name and the authenticity of the food they serve stem from the same source: the culinary wisdom of Grandma Hồng.
Vietnam Surpasses South Korea as World's No. 1 Consumer of Instant Noodles Per Capita
Vietnam’s penchant for mì gói has propelled us to the top position among the world’s instant noodle consumers.
Ngõ Nooks: Three Generations of Noodles on the Pavement at Bún Riêu Hồng Phúc
Connecting Hòe Nhai and Hàng Đậu, Hồng Phúc is one of the shortest alleys in Hanoi. However, this small alley is a paradise for people who love bún, especially if one is craving a meticulously prepare...
Hẻm Gems: Just a Short Walk From Bến Thành, a Hearty Bún Chả for Lunch
In his essay collection Hà Nội 36 Phố Phường (The 36 Streets of Hanoi), Thạch Lam famously writes "Ngàn năm bửu vật đất Thăng Long / Bún chả là đây có phải không?" The couplet compares ...
Saijo, Huế's Sister City in Japan, Adds Bún Bò to School Lunch Program
Another step toward bún bò domination has been taken.
Khôi Phạm in Dishcovery
Naengmyeon, the Korean Cold Noodles to Ward Off the Heat of Summer
As Saigon inches towards the hottest months of the year, I find myself shying away from steaming hot soups while craving a little cooling treat to ward off the heat. Luckily for Saigon’s foodies, Dist...
Hẻm Gems: Tân Định's Tried-and-True Bánh Canh Cua for a Late Breakfast
Bánh canh, at times described as Vietnamese udon or even “mouse-tail noodles,” is a great mystery on its own. Etymologically speaking, bánh canh translates to “soup-cake,” and these thick, cylindrical...
US Eatery Targeted by Angry Reviewers for Providing Raw Beef With Takeaway Phở Tái
Customers ordering phở tái to go were confused to receive raw beef, not understanding they were expected to cook it, and responded with cruel reviews.
Hẻm Gems: One Bowl, Two Noodle Dishes, and Heaps of Hometown Glory
On the slope connecting Binh Thanh and Phu Nhuan districts lives a small pocket of Quang Nam culinary spirits — in the form of “two-in-one” noodles.
A Shelf-Stable History of Why Vietnam Loves Mì Gói
Instant noodles are more or less a religion. They have widely spread to many lands, where they are adapted to suit the culture and people there. Most importantly, they offer us salvation in some of th...
Europe Recalls Batches of Hảo Hảo Noodles Found to Contain Banned Substance
Vietnam's supply is said to be free of the pesticide that warranted the ban.
Vietnam Consumed the 3rd-Most Instant Noodles Globally in 2020
How many instant noodle packs did you eat during 2020's social distancing periods?
Vietnamese Artist Shows Incredible Skills in Hyperrealistic Hảo Hảo Noodles Painting
The much-shared image looks so real that its artist, Lê Đại Phát, was forced to upload a video of him creating it to prove it was in fact a painting.
Khoi Pham in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: A Nasi Lemak in Saigon That Evokes Memories of Hawker Centers
As I gaze at the glorious eight-dish Malaysian banquet on our table at Makiucha, perfectly spaced by our photographer, popping with colors and wafting off aromas of rich spices, it becomes apparent to...
Hẻm Gems: The Oldest Hủ Tiếu Bò Viên in Town
With only three dishes on the menu, this hủ tiếu spot has been running for more than five decades.
Hẻm Gems: Nha Trang's 22-Year-Old Bánh Canh Cá Sings the Praises of the Sea
Traveling in Nha Trang wouldn't be complete without tasting this delicious bowl of bánh canh which makes you enjoy eating almost every part of the fish, from its meat to its organs.
Ngõ Nooks: A Mom-and-Pop Ramen Experience in Hanoi's 'Japantown'
Anyone familiar with the Linh Lang–Kim Ma–Dao Tan area knows it’s the closest one might get to visiting Japan in Hanoi.
Ngõ Nooks: A Simple but Well-Balanced Bún Cá Thái Bình in Ba Đình
In these uncertain times when everything oscillates between “business as usual,” “total lockdown” and all shades in-between, I don’t really know when this article will be published, or if the little e...
Khôi Phạm in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: From Ohio to D7, the Serendipitous Story of Saigon's Lamb Phở
A highlight of my last visit to Phở Lạc Việt was a special moment when I reached out and the tips of my fingers touched a warm bowl inside the heating cabinet.
Khoi Pham in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: D6's Hot and Sour Suan La Fen Is the Noodle Dish to Conquer
Every time I lap up a spoonful of searing broth that’s so spicy I could almost count the number of times my face pulses, I feel grateful for taste buds.
Michael Tatarski in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: Korean Comfort Food in Binh Thanh for Hungover Heads
One of the great joys of dining out is coming across the unexpected.
Khoi Pham in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: The Universe of Hanoian Food Beyond Bún Đậu
I tend to be cautious of restaurants that boast authenticity.
Saigon's Famous 'Lunch Lady' Set to Open in Canada
With help from the Lunch Lady herself, a team of restauranteurs in Vancouver is opening a dining establishment inspired by the humble Saigon street food stall made famous by the late Anthony Bourdain....
Michael Tatarski in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: Handmade Noodles Hidden Amid the Mayhem of Hang Xanh
The traffic-choked wastelands of Hang Xanh are one of the last places you'd expect to find an incredible meal of noodles.
Khoi Pham in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: The Refreshing Simplicity of Veggies, Roots and Mushrooms
Explaining the food at Rau Củ Nấm Vegan Restaurant is simple; it’s all in the name: vegetables, tubers, and mushrooms.
Ngõ Nooks: Sumptuous Vegetarian Ramen in a Quiet Truc Bach Hideaway
If you’ve ventured to the land of ramen, it’s likely you have a Japan hangover. Vege-ro’s authentic, rich meals could, for a while at least, help you recover.
Michael Tatarski in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: Piquant Thai Noodles in D7 for the Age of Takeout
It's the simple things in life that sometimes bring the greatest pleasure.
Thi Nguyen in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: At Sadec Quan, a Celebration of Mekong Delta Noodles
While bánh tằm is more often regarded as a popular street food dish in the Mekong Delta, my entrance to the world of this dish was family gatherings in Saigon.
Hẻm Gems: Pho Chay Nhu and 35 Years of Serving Tasty Vegetarian Meals
A bowl full of noodles is one of the things that make me feel lucky to be alive, and alive in Saigon in particular.
Thi Nguyen in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gem: Bún Cá Sứa With a Stock That Tastes Like the Ocean
A friend once told me that Saigon is a place that makes you feel like you can travel anywhere.
Thi Nguyen in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: A Secret Back-Alley Bún Ngan, Hidden in Plain Sight
Several months ago, the Saigoneer team went to 89 Nguyen Du for a Hẻm Gem on Ngo 89’s Hanoian snacks. Little did I know, we’d be going to the same location for an entirely different eatery later on.
Hẻm Gems: Home-Cooked Taiwanese Comfort Food for a Cold Saigon Day
District 5, Saigon’s Chinatown, is full of delicious eateries serving Cantonese food. For something new, try Va Thanh, an unassuming restaurant with top-notch Taiwanese home-style cooking.
Hẻm Gems: The 'Stink' of Bún Mắm Nêm Is My Childhood Aroma
Every time I depart from Vietnam to study abroad or travel, on the way to Tan Son Nhat International Airport I stop by the Bau Cat area in Tan Binh to stuff myself with at least two bowls of bún mắm n...
Khoi Pham in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: The Crispy Duck Noodles for When You're Feeling Fancy
Right in the middle of frenetic hospital crowds, imposing pharmacies and peak-hour traffic, Hue Ky Mi Gia stands out, its indoor dining area seemingly unaffected by the commotion that’s going on just ...
Ngõ Nooks: Slurping Thick Noodles and Seafood at Banh Canh Ghe Ut Coi
A whiff of the ocean hits you before you even step foot onto the street. In this curious corner between Quang Trung and Nha Chung, a new form of restaurant exemplifies the vitality and variety of Hano...
Michael Tatarski in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: A Direct Flight to Taiwan Through Your Taste Buds
One of the great benefits Vietnam's budget airline boom is the ease with which Saigoneers can now travel directly to wonderful destinations like Japan and South Korea without breaking the bank.
Hẻm Gems: The Comfort of Slurping Vegetarian Noodles on the Pavement
Tien, who’s been up since 4am, stops for a moment, lets out a small sigh of satisfaction and wipes the sweat from her brow with the well-used towel around her neck. It’s now 7:45am on another hot, hum...
Chả Lụa Fit for a Kingdom: How Thailand Fell in Love With Vietnamese Ham
Instead of sunny Saigon, I found myself yet again in relentlessly sunny Bangkok. I had a convenient excuse though: attending a close friend’s wedding.
Ngõ Nooks: On Hàng Bài, Golden Bún Cá Thái Bình in a Hole in the Wall
When a friend of mine returned home after living abroad last year, he longed for a bowl of bún cá. I suggested the classic Hanoi dish, with satisfyingly oily deep-fried fish, but he had other ideas&nb...
Thi Nguyen in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks
Ngõ Nooks: The Delectable Comfort of Xuan Dieu's No-Name Bánh Đa Trộn
With most of my life having been spent living in Saigon, the concept of bánh đa was first introduced to me by a mass-produced instant crab noodle soup package.
Hẻm Gems: Northern-Style Miến Lươn Is a Magical Saigon Breakfast
Mien Luon Cho Ben Thanh was the final destination in my parents’ 20-year quest to find an authentic northern miến lươn in Saigon.
Khoi Pham in Food Culture
Saigon's Oldest Pre-Doi Moi Relic, Hai Con Tôm Noodles, Is a Living Fossil
You wake up in Saigon in the 1980s in your apartment overlooking the Saigon River. While yawning, you put a dollop of Da Lan toothpaste on a brush. Using a bar of Co Ba soap, you wash yourself up and ...
Khoi Pham in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: An Authentic Hai Phong Bánh Đa Cua Right in the Heart of D1
I am a fervent champion of all things noodles.
Hẻm Gems: Mutahiro's Masterful Chicken Ramen
Ramen is often the preferred choice of Japanese comfort food in Southeast Asia, yet finding an impressive offering of the dish in Saigon has proven to be a challenge. The appearance of Mutahiro i...