
Hẻm Gems: A Perfect Plate of Cơm Trưa by the River
In Saigon, cơm trưa is more than just a meal: it’s also a cultural trait, a community and, at times, a serious business, all wrapped up in a plate of freshly cooked rice and perfectly caramelized chun...

Hẻm Gems: Lunch Hour Gone Rogue at Oc Thao
In the vast and complex world of Saigon street food, ốc is generally classified as a staple of the fourth meal: nhậu. Its various forms, whether doused in garlic, drizzled with mỡ hành or swimming in ...

Saigoneer’s 5 Best Hẻm Gems of 2016
We’ve done a lot of eating this year.

Hẻm Gems: Getting Your Fried Chicken and Noodle Fix in D4
“When in doubt, have chicken.” – Saigoneer proverb

Hẻm Gems: Cô Hong’s Killer Late-Night Cơm Tấm
In the 16 years she’s spent selling cơm tấm on the District 4 side of the Calmette Bridge, cô Hong has seen some things.

Hẻm Gems: Phu Nhuan's Beef Inferno
It might take more than a few Hẻm Gem reviews to chronicle all the things I have gone through for good food in Saigon.

Hẻm Gems: Striking a Balance With D10's Chè
If life is all about balance so, too, is food.

Hẻm Gems: D1's Rainy-Day Cháo Mực
“A cháo a day keeps the cold at bay.” – Saigoneer proverb

Hẻm Gems: An Old-School Nhậu on D10's Bia Hơi Block
Any self-respecting Saigoneer has a certain reverence for the art of nhậu.

Hẻm Gems: Crab Curry Fit for a King
At a glance, this week’s District 4 Hẻm Gem might appear like any typical ốc restaurant in Saigon. Quan Oc 63’s laminated menu offers up no less than 40 dishes within its sticky plastic pages. However...

Hẻm Gems: Nguyen Thuong Hien's Quaint Corner Juice Heaven
In Saigon, when life gives you grapefruits, you create a thriving business to sell its juice to health-conscious locals.

Hẻm Gems: D1's Bún Mọc Assembly Line
We leave our office in search of District 1’s famed phở áp chảo only to find bún mọc in a hopeless place.

Hẻm Gems: Nguyen Tri Phuong's Chicken Rice Paradise
We promise this will be the last Nguyen Tri Phuong-based Hẻm Gem…for now.

Hẻm Gems: Conquering the Giant Bánh Canh Ghẹ Muối Ớt Xanh of D10
My uncle used to say that you haven't had real crab until you have to cook and dismantle one. For this week’s Hẻm Gem, Saigoneer takes you on a trip to do just that, relishing real crabs by break...

Hẻm Gems: Saigon's Original Bò 7 Món
Going to dinner at Au Pagolac is like going to dinner with family. That is, of course, provided your family spans several generations and also serves its meals in crisp, white button-ups and the occas...

Hẻm Gems: A Cuppa in Saigon's Oldest Cafe
One of the first things Co Suong does when we sit down in the back of her tiny District 3 cafe is bring out the newspaper clippings.

Hẻm Gems: Getting Lost in D3’s Soup Bermuda Triangle
During a busy Thursday lunch hour, my coworker and I commit a soup drive-by.

Hẻm Gems: Lão Hương Thân, One of Saigon's Oldest Cơm Gà Xối Mỡ Restaurants
Is there anything quite as glorious as beautifully done fried chicken?

Hẻm Gems: Bún Sứa Serves Up a Jellyfish Medley Without the Sting
The menu at Bun Sua Co Hanh is geared towards diners with a hankering for seafood, and not just your regular fish and company. They serve something out of the ordinary at this slightly drab river...

Hẻm Gems: Slurping Mì Ốc Hến in District 4 With Công 'the Enforcer'
Shuffling along in flip-flops and a pair of baggy shorts, Công the Enforcer arrives at our table.