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Hẻm Gems: On Falling Head Over Heels (Literally) for Dũng Ký's Mì Xào Giòn

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Published on 24 October 2023
Written by Uyên Đỗ. Photos by Cao Nhân.

When Saigoneer’s office relocated from District 1’s downtown to District 3 earlier this year, one of the instantly noticeable changes was the increase in affordable eating options.

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Hẻm Gems: From Cà Mau, Cô Xíu Brings Bánh Tầm Cà Ri Cay to Bình Thạnh

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Published on 23 October 2023
Written by Paul Christiansen. Photos by Alberto Prieto.

Recently, I’ve had the Mekong Delta on the mind. This month I made two trips down to research various elements of the watery region, and also spent time reading author Khải Đơn’s tremendous delta-focused book of poetry Drowning Dragon Slips by Burning Plain; read my review of the book here. And while I haven’t actually seen the movie adaptation Đất Rừng Phương Nam, it’s been impossible to avoid the promos that feature a stereotypical wooden boat easing along a narrow delta channel, while white herons rise and farmers trudge into the field wearing colorful clothing with black khăn rằn. 

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How One Saigon Gym Is Re-Inventing Fitness

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Published on 23 October 2023
Written by Saigoneer. Photos by Primal Performance Lab.

Technology has fundamentally altered how Saigoneers travel around the city, find and eat food, form and maintain relationships and make purchases. Such innovations can profoundly change how one approaches fitness here as well.

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Hẻm Gems: The Best Cao Lầu Outside of Hội An Is in Tân Bình

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Published on 19 October 2023
Written by Khôi Phạm. Photos by Alberto Prieto.

Years ago, the first time I ate cao lầu, I committed a cardinal sin. As I gazed upon my freshly assembled bowl of noodles, without much thought, I asked the waitress for more sauce.

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Hẻm Gems: What Bún Cua Gia Lai Taught Me About Vietnam's Bond With Bún

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Published on 18 October 2023
Written by Khôi Phạm. Photos by Cao Nhân.

Not being a picky eater was somewhat of a personal point of pride for me growing up. I have my family to thank for this, as their immense patience and open-mindedness have encouraged me to explore as many eclectic delicacies and novel ingredients as possible during my formative years. So whenever a wild new dish comes along that challenges my palate so much I struggle to finish even one portion, I can’t help but consider it a personal blunder. Much apologies to bún cua Gia Lai, I have failed you.

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Hẻm Gems: From Nghệ An, a Turmeric-Tinged Miến Lươn Feast in D7

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Published on 17 October 2023
Written by Khôi Phạm. Photos by Đỗ Anh Chương.

Once upon a time, deep in the distant kingdom of District 7, there was a miến lươn place. 

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Hẻm Gems: A Trip to Bàn Cờ for Lạng Sơn’s Sweet and Sour Dry Phở

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Published on 16 October 2023
Written by Khôi Phạm. Photos by Brandon Coleman and Cao Nhân.

There’s not much you can say about phở that hasn't already been said. From its complicated origin to its deliciousness to its ubiquity on Saigon’s streets, the subject has been covered ad nauseam. However, phở chua Lạng Sơn — mixed dry phở with sweet and sour sauce — is uncharted territory.

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Khải Đơn's Poetry Debut Won't Shy Away From the Mekong Delta's Untold Complexities

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Published on 13 October 2023
Written by Paul Christiansen. Graphic by Mai Phạm.

Environmental devastation, irresponsible development, economic imperilment, social ills, war legacies and the abandonment of cultural traditions and connections: these multifaceted, interconnected realities threaten Vietnam’s Mekong Delta region.

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AISA Games Come to Saigon

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Published on 13 October 2023
Written by Saigoneer. Photos by AIS.

Australian International School, Saigon (AIS Saigon) is set to host students from Australian International Schools across Asia this November, for the highly anticipated AISA Games 2023. 

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Meet DeeDee, the Studio Behind Netflix Docuseries 'How to Become a Cult Leader'

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Published on 08 October 2023
Written by Paul Christiansen. Top graphic by Mai Phạm. Images courtesy of DeeDee.

With a frantic, rabid fury flickering in his eyes, Charles Manson swerves through technicolor 1960s Hollywood streets, the passengers in his convertible terrified by the crazed maneuvering of a man who would soon become one of America’s most infamous convicted murderers.

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Local Illustrator Recreates Saigon's Convenience Stores as Adorable Cartoon Houses

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Published on 06 October 2023
Written by Saigoneer. Illustrations by Nguyên Sinh.

In the early 2010s, convenience stores emerged as an affordable alternative for Vietnamese youths, especially those with limited disposable income, to chill. A decade later, the widespread mushrooming of these corner shops is proof that cửa hàng tiện lợi is now an indispensable part of the local urban tapestry, and they are here to stay.

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On Japan’s Shonan Coastline, a Wintry Vista of Mount Fuji

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Published on 06 October 2023
Written by Oliver Newman. Photos by Oliver Newman.

It was my first trip to Zushi Beach and the sun was beginning to set. 

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Viet Thanh Nguyen Memoir 'A Man of Two Faces' Releases Today

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Published on 02 October 2023
Written by Saigoneer.

A Man of Two Faces: A Memoir, a History, a Memorial, the new book by Pulitzer Prize-winner Viet Thanh Nguyen arrives from Grove City Press on October 3. 

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Finding Solace in the Placid Water of Trị An Lake as a City Dweller

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Published on 29 September 2023
Written by Uyên Đỗ. Photos by Khôi Phạm.

I took a deep breath, realizing that I was suspended in the midpoint of everything, above the calm, glassy surface of Trị An Lake and beneath the vast, enveloping azure sky that blanketed Mã Đà forest.

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Phan Thiết's Vibrant Whale Worship Festival Reflects Vietnam's Rich Animist Traditions

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Published on 27 September 2023
Written by Xuân Phương. Photos by Xuân Phương.

Whale worship started from a folk belief harbored by fishermen seeking help from the gods to endure the arduous days spent at sea, but over time, it grew to become one of the most prominent spiritual practices of Vietnam’s fishing communities, especially in Phan Thiết. This reverence of whales reflects the people’s fervent passion for life, and a benevolent coastal culture that seeks harmony between mankind and nature.

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Shrimp Fishing in Thanh Đa Is Fun Even When You Don't Catch Anything

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Published on 24 September 2023
Written by Paul Christiansen. Photos by Alberto Prieto.

If it weren’t for shrimps, developing taste buds would have been an outrageous waste of evolutionary time and resources. Truly, without the potential for boiled, grilled, fried, baked or even raw shrimp, I find little point to getting out of bed with my tongue still in my mouth.

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Review: 'Bến Phà Xác Sống' Is the 2nd-Worst Movie I've Ever Watched. I'm Sad It's Over.

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Published on 24 September 2023
Written by Khôi Phạm.

The day when the Saigoneer team organized a little get-together to watch Bến Phà Xác Sống in the cinema, I was running seriously late.

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In the Mekong Delta, Ferries Are Childhood Friends and Daily Companions

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Published on 22 September 2023
Written by Morgan Ommer. Photos by Morgan Ommer..

The Mekong Delta is called Đồng bằng Sông Cửu Long in Vietnamese — the Nine Dragons River, for the way the mighty Mekong splits into multiple strands as it nears its final destination, the East Sea.

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An Ode to Lục Bình, Vietnam's Invasive, Destructive, Beautiful Aquatic Jerk

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Published on 20 September 2023
Written by Paul Christiansen. Graphic by Mai Khanh.

Knotted gnarls of lush stems, leaves, vines; a verdant scrimmage of tangled plant matter kept afloat by buoyant bladders accented by pleats of pink petals that resemble the skirts of ballerinas trapped inside music boxes: the water hyacinth.

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In Gò Vấp, a 'Floating Temple' Stands the Test of Time and River Currents

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Published on 19 September 2023
Written by Khang Nguyễn. Photos by Alberto Prieto.

On an isle amid the Vàm Thuật river in Gò Vấp District, Phù Châu Temple, colloquially known among locals as the “floating temple,” has welcomed religious practitioners looking for a serene quarter in fast-paced Hồ Chí Minh City for over three centuries.

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