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Hội An Reports 91 Food Poisoning Cases Linked to Famous Bánh Mì Phượng

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Published on 14 September 2023
Written by Saigoneer.

Bánh Mì Phượng, Hội An’s most famous bánh mì eatery, recently made national headlines again, but for unfortunate reasons.

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Ocean Vuong Brings Vietnamese Text, Original Photos to Helmut Lang Collection

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Published on 13 September 2023
Written by Saigoneer.

Peter Do, the recently named Creative Director of the storied fashion brand Helmut Lang, enlisted writer Ocean Vuong to provide text and photos for his debut collection.

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Just 12km From Huế, a Hidden Lake Welcomes You to a Night of Stargazing

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Published on 12 September 2023
Written by Tuyết Nhi. Photos by Nguyễn Hữu Bảo.

If you’ve been meaning to embark on a trip to escape from the chaos of daily life but aren’t quite keen to plunge straight into the wilderness, Huế might be the perfect next destination. The city center embodies calm, quietude and a sense of poetic beauty — these are all great qualities that have long drawn visitors to it, but not many are aware that there’s an entirely different side of Huế if one just takes a short ride away from the urban heartland alongside the Perfume River.

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In Huế, an Interdisciplinary Exhibition Opens Literal and Metaphorical Doors

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Published on 11 September 2023
Written by Paul Christiansen. Photos by Trần Quang Trung.

“I cannot stop opening doors,” Phan Lê Hà said in regard to the physical objects that reappear throughout her creative works.

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Saigon Heat Wins Intracity Rivalry Over HCMC Wings, Closing Out VBA Regular Season

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Published on 10 September 2023
Written by Garrett MacLean. Photos by Alberto Prieto and Cao Nhân.

Families of fans filed into the “Fire Pan” on September 3, wearing red, white, and black jerseys. The atmosphere hums with anticipation.

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Ngõ Nooks: The Quiet Intimacy of Tree Bar, Where Strangers Become Fast Friends

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Published on 09 September 2023
Written by Oliver Newman. Photos by Kit Humphrey and Nguyệt.

A group of patrons gossip in thick, fast Japanese. They might all know each other or they might just speak to anyone at the bar as if they already know them. The wizened “master” joins in from his perch beneath the liquor shelves, as salarymen shuffle in and out of back rooms.

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Ngõ Nooks: Hanoi's Long Waits Jazz Club Dreams a Little Dream of Jazz

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Published on 04 September 2023
Written by Nguyệt. Photos courtesy of Long Waits.

Long Waits, a self-proclaimed “modest jazz club,” is the culmination of many dreams that merged and shifted before finally giving Hanoi a modern yet quaint jazz experience.

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Ngõ Nooks: Nourishment for the Soul at Canh Bún Nguyễn Siêu

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Published on 31 August 2023
Written by Hoa Tran and Kit Humphrey. Photos by Kit Humphrey.

Eating canh bún is akin to going for a walk on a clear day as sunset melts over the city; it costs almost nothing yet nourishes the soul.

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Vignette: Local Ox Rampages Airport, Stops Flights, Gets Put in Museum in Huế

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Published on 30 August 2023
Written by Paul Christiansen. Photos by Paul Christiansen.

Name a famous buffalo.

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Hẻm Gems: Đà Lạt's Nomadic 'Cafe' Has No Menu, No Store, and One Table

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Published on 28 August 2023
Written by Mầm. Photos courtesy of Tiệm Cà phê Một bàn.

During a recent trip to Đà Lạt, a friend invited me for coffee at 5:30am. The frosty climate of the Central Highlands mornings concerned me, but upon hearing the pitch about a whimsical cafe that operates on a “now you see me, now you don’t” basis, I immediately said yes.

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Vignette: Behold Vietnam's Oldest Rock, a Memento Mori of Human Insignificance

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Published on 25 August 2023
Written by Paul Christiansen. Photos by Paul Christiansen.

While lamenting how long it had been since I’d last sent a postcard, a coworker at Saigoneer revealed that she is too young to have ever seen a stamp in person, let alone affixed one to a letter. The fashions I wore in high school have come full circle and are once again in style. New slang terms initially baffle and then enrage me. I read popular music festival fliers without recognizing a single name. 

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In Massachusetts' Cicada Cafe, a Marriage Between New England and Vietnamese Flavors

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Published on 24 August 2023
Written by Elyse Phạm. Graphic by Tú Võ. Photos courtesy of Cicada.

“I don’t like the term ‘fusion,’” Vinh Lê, the chef of Cicada Coffee Bar, tells me. “You need to adapt. You need to adapt to the new environment, new life, when you move from Vietnam to the US. And to do that, food is one of the important elements.”

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In Search of Quy Nhơn’s New and Traditional Delicacies

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Published on 18 August 2023
Written by Saigoneer. Photos by Saigoneer.

When asked what one should do when visiting, Quy Nhơn, one of Saigoneer’s favorite cities, the answer is simple: eat!

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Hẻm Gems: Milo Dầm Is Decadence, Childhood and Street Culture in a Spoon

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Published on 17 August 2023
Written by Hương Lê. Photos by Cao Nhân.

Growing up in Saigon before the surge of foreign dessert trends like milk tea, cheese tarts, and bingsu, the humble and affordable Milo powder found in almost every grocery store and street vendor was the pinnacle of my childhood dessert universe. Be it a bowl of shaved ice, a cup of milk tea, or a luscious smoothie, I was that determined child who would unabashedly mix Milo powder or cocoa into my beverages to "enhance" their flavors. The harmonious interplay of the powder's bitterness blending with the sweetness of milk, against the backdrop of chilly ice, created the perfect concoction for Saigon's sweltering climate.

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Train to Biên Hòa: A Day Trip Into Suburbia From Saigon

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Published on 16 August 2023
Written by Khôi Phạm. Photos by Cao Nhân.

When Saigoneer first announced a few weeks ago that Vietnam’s railway network would be the centerpiece of our next themed article series, a number of readers joked in the comment section that who in their right mind would love Vietnamese trains.

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Chả Cá Lã Vọng, Now in Burger Form at D2's Latest Burger Joint

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Published on 15 August 2023
Written by Elyse Phạm. Photos by Cao Nhân.

With its tiled walls, neon signs, and red-and-white color palette, The Smash Saigon appears to emulate the classic aesthetics of American diners. These motifs are so heavily associated with American comfort food — burgers, fries, milkshakes — that, wandering into The Smash, guests might guess at its menu before even seeing it. But they’d only be half right.

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Thanks for Your Order, Your Bún Will Arrive by Train in a Few Minutes

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Published on 11 August 2023
Written by Uyên Đỗ. Photo by Alberto Prieto.

♫ And the bún mộc on the train goes round and round. Rolling down the track ♫

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Tiny Tracks, Big Passion: Inside the Miniature World of Vietnam's Model Train Enthusiasts

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Published on 10 August 2023
Written by Khang Nguyễn. Photos by Cao Nhân.

“When you turn it on, the train is not only moving, but it can make sounds too. The sounds are so authentic that when I listen to it, I feel like I am sitting on a real train right now,” Minh Tú, a Saigon-based model train aficionado, shares with me the satisfied feeling every time he gets a mini train to run.

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The Tumultuous Tale of Three Ga Sài Gòn Locations, From 1885 Until Now

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Published on 08 August 2023
Written by Tim Doling. Graphic by Mai Khanh.

Travelers arriving by train in Hồ Chí Minh City sometimes express surprise that the main Saigon Railway Station is located in Hòa Hưng, some distance from the central business district. In fact, this is the third railway terminus in a city where each successive station has been built further away from the river.

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A Brief History of the Vietnam Railways Building Before Its 110th Birthday

Details
Published on 07 August 2023
Written by Tim Doling.

The iconic Bến Thành Market is not the only Saigon landmark that has endured for more than a century. The Vietnam Railways building at 138 Hàm Nghi, given its inauguration in 1914, is pushing the 110-year milestone in less than six months.

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