Ngõ Nooks: Blue Crab and Beer for a Bodacious Snack on the Hanoi Sidewalk
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- Published on 20 March 2023
- Written by Linh Phạm. Photos by Alberto Prieto.
Of all seafood in Vietnam, ghẹ (blue crab) is among the most expensive. Even at wholesale markets, these crustaceans can fetch from VND300,000 to 400,000 a kilogram and any buffet deal that boasts their presence naturally comes with an exorbitant price tag. It was a personal surprise for me to find this highly sought-after delicacy right on the pavement at Quán Ghẹ Cô Tươi.
The Ugly Truth of the Life and Impending Demise of the Hoàn Kiếm Turtle
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- Published on 18 March 2023
- Written by Paul Christiansen. Graphic by Mai Phạm.
Everyone knows the mythological story of the Hoàn Kiếm turtle.
I Went Cloud-Hunting and Found Peace Atop Đà Lạt's Tea Hill
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- Published on 16 March 2023
- Written by Hương Lê. Photos by Hương Lê.
Northern California is blessed with serene nature. Growing up there, pathless trails and cloudy mountain peaks were my safe havens, and when returning home on break from college, it was a tradition to visit my favorite hideout place: a curvy hill near my old high school. Sitting atop the hill and looking down at the city offer a peaceful means to recharge and quiet my mind. The appearance of clouds adds more to the valley’s awe-inspiring nature.
Go Through Centuries of Ceramic History at Hanoi's Bát Tràng Museum
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- Published on 15 March 2023
- Written by Léo-Paul Guyot. Photos by Léo-Paul Guyot.
The Pottery Museum in Làng Gốm Bát Tràng (Bát Tràng Ceramics Village) showcases the cultural heritage of the village through its exhibits of the works of past and present artisans.
Ngõ Nooks: A Blissful Fish Feast at Bún Cá Sâm Cây Si
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- Published on 14 March 2023
- Written by Trang Bùi. Photos by Trang Bùi.
As hot as it gets, Hanoi’s scorching summer is no match for delightful fish rolls and refreshing sour soup.
Ngõ Nooks: Cozy up at Ẩn Cà Phê With Morning Coffees and Night Cocktails
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- Published on 10 March 2023
- Written by Oliver Newman. Photos by Alberto Prieto.
In the Mood for Love, Wong Kar-wai’s elegantly restrained movie about married lovers resisting adultery, offers up a delicious cocktail of emotions. At least, that is the concept behind the drinks menu at Ẩn Cà phê, a coffee and cocktail bar southwest of Tây Hồ.
Wander Through the Streets of the Old Quarter in 1995 Hanoi
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- Published on 10 March 2023
- Written by Saigoneer.
What do you miss most about the 1990s?
The Unbearable Delight of Watching a Live Football Match at Hàng Đẫy Stadium
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- Published on 08 March 2023
- Written by Linh Phạm. Photos by Alberto Prieto.
“The government sells it for VND100,000. Just give me VND150,000. Gate 3, right in the center.”
What to See, Taste, and Do If You Have a Free Morning in Tân Định
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- Published on 07 March 2023
- Written by Khôi Phạm. Photos by Cao Nhân.
There’s not much you’ll need to do to persuade me to drive, walk, crawl, scuttle or skate along the Nhiêu Lộc-Thị Nghè Canal — I adore its shaded, tree-lined pavements that much.
I Grew up Among Ducks in the Mekong Delta. They Always Remind Me of Home.
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- Published on 06 March 2023
- Written by Mai HD. Top image by Mai Khanh.
On a recent ritual walk around my suburb, I was held up by the sight of a middle-aged man with his “fur kid.” I introduced myself and when he heard the word “Vietnam,” his eyes lit up and with a smile as he tumbled out the words: “The Mekong Delta. Ducks.”
Vignette: For Cafe 81 and the '404 Not Found' Places of Our Lives
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- Published on 06 March 2023
- Written by Paul Christiansen.
We all have them.
Hẻm Gems: Cà Phê Sữa and Cơm Tấm With a Side of Espionage History
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- Published on 04 March 2023
- Written by Paul Christiansen. Photos by Cao Nhân.
Kimchi is not a common cơm tấm accouterment. The extra helping of chili pepper heat, palate-cleansing bitterness and cabbage leaf crunch doesn't taste out of place beside a fully loaded plate of broken rice, it’s just not a common feature of the southern staple. This is not so at Cà Phê Đỗ Phủ-Cơm Tấm Đại Hàn, where the story behind kimchi’s existence on the plate is more interesting than the meal itself.
Tân Định Market, D1's Nearly 100-Year-Old Trading Hub
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- Published on 04 March 2023
- Written by Tim Doling. Top photo by Cao Nhân.
Originally known as the marché de Phu-Hoa, Tân Định Market at 1 Nguyễn Hữu Cầu in District 1 is one of the city’s most historic markets, but it was the opening of the stylish French market building of 1927 which brought it to worldwide attention.
From Vauban Citadel to Modernist Icon: The History of Turtle Lake
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- Published on 03 March 2023
- Written by Leo. Graphic by Mai Khanh.
The area of Công Trường Quốc Tế and Turtle Lake (Hồ Con Rùa) has been through many changes both in design and function throughout the history of Saigon. First, it housed a gate for a Nguyễn-dynasty citadel, then the land was flattened for a water tower in accordance with a new urban plan by the French colonial government, and finally, the square became a diplomatic display for past allies of the previous regime.
From Swampland to Heartland: The History of Bến Thành Market
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- Published on 01 March 2023
- Written by Hiếu Y. Graphic by Mai Khanh.
From the very first discussions in 1868 regarding a new marketplace for Saigon, it was not until 1914, that Bến Thành Market became a reality. The birth of the market was like a dream come true, one that came together after nearly five decades of debate in search of solutions for the city’s infrastructure woes.
A Brief History of District 1's Collège d’Adran, Saigon's Oldest School
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- Published on 27 February 2023
- Written by Hương Lê.
Driving past the Saigon Zoological and Botanical Garden toward Nguyễn Hữu Cảnh Street, many of us might not notice the presence of Võ Trường Toản Secondary School and Trưng Vương High School. The two institutions once belonged to one single entity, Collège d’Adran, which many historical sources deem the oldest school in Saigon.
Ở đó ở đây Sài Gòn — A Love-Hate Letter to the Maze of Paradoxes
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- Published on 27 February 2023
- Written by Adrien Jean.
Editor's note: Adrien Jean is a Saigon-based photographer and a frequent contributor to Saigoneer's Darkroom series. His photos often depict the precise moments in time when the visual elements of our daily life line up just right to evoke a special feeling. In this special photo collection, which contains all of Jean's favorite shots of Saigon, he penned a loving ode, titled 'Love/Hate Letter to Saigon.'
Hẻm Gems: The Midnight Hủ Tiếu Only for Saigon's Most Patient Night Owls
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- Published on 25 February 2023
- Written by Hương Lê. Photos by Cao Nhân.
As a Saigonese who has lived abroad for half of her life, I have a huge craving for hủ tiếu khô (dry noodles), my go-to breakfast meal and a dish my family always made sure to get on our way to my mother’s hometown in the Mekong Delta. Something special about the combination of the rich rice noodle, bone broth, and pork slices made us return for more. Though I later moved to the US and was exposed to other versions of dry noodle dishes and flavorful cuisines from different parts of the world, the memory of savoring a rich and topping-full hủ tiếu khô bowl from the motherland still remains in my mind.
Inside the Sawdust Alley in D8 Where Old Furniture Goes to Get Repurposed
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- Published on 22 February 2023
- Written by Uyên Đỗ. Photos by Lê Thái Hoàng Nguyên.
My lungs began to heave with raspy coughs as I ventured deeper into the alley of 124 Phạm Thế Hiển.
Amid Bảo Lộc Hills, a Wooden Cafe Floats Amongst the Clouds
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- Published on 20 February 2023
- Written by Saigoneer.
In the middle of nowhere Bảo Lộc, perched on the side of an alternative national road is the wooden carapace of Nguyen Coffee, a veritable “Noah’s ark” welcoming travelers in for a short break to enjoy its drinks and spectacular view of the Đá Bàn Stream below.
