Pure Passion Turns Dark: The Unexpected Dangers of the Wild Turtle Trade
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- Published on 12 December 2024
- Written by Tommy. Illustration by Hannah Hoàng.
Seeking a companion during quarantine, Khánh*, a 25-year-old Hanoian, bought a baby turtle through a Facebook group.
The Forgotten History Behind Saigon's CEE Colonial Substations
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- Published on 11 December 2024
- Written by Uyên Đỗ. Photos by Cao Nhân.
Woven into the fabric of modern-day streets, the aging electrical substations of Saigon stand as quiet witnesses to a historical era shaped by the complex legacy of French colonialism.
Revisiting the Delicious Satirical Society of 'Số Đỏ' by Vũ Trọng Phụng
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- Published on 10 December 2024
- Written by Thi Nguyễn.
Published in 1938, Dumb Luck, or Số Đỏ, remains one of Vietnam's most popular and controversial novels. Vũ Trọng Phụng was fined by the French colonial administration in Hanoi in 1932 for his stark portrayals of sexuality. Dumb Luck, along with most of his works, were banned in 1954 until the late 1980s. Today, Vietnamese who attended public high school are no stranger to Vũ Trọng Phụng as an excerpt from the book, titled “The Happiness of a Family in Mourning,” is included in the official literature curriculum.
From Abroad to My Favorite Bún Riêu: A Brief History of Trứng Vịt Lộn
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- Published on 09 December 2024
- Written by Thái An. Graphic by Ngọc Tạ.
I pride myself on being a child of Hanoi, but only after nearly 20 years, did I realize that trứng vịt lộn is not exactly an authentic topping in Hanoi-style bún riêu.
Severine Phương Trần's Debut Exhibition in Saigon Celebrates a World of Colors
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- Published on 08 December 2024
- Written by An Trần. Photos courtesy of 22 Gallery.
Step into Severine Phương Trần’s first-ever exhibition in Saigon, where you can explore the artist’s inner world of vibrant colors and different emotions. To fully enjoy this exhibition, it is best to let your inner child and imagination roam free and allow the flow of colors and different sceneries to guide you through a journey of creativity, self-discovery, and personal artistic transformation.
Hẻm Gems: An Alternative Cơm Tấm From Long Xuyên for Thịt Kho Trứng Fans
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- Published on 06 December 2024
- Written by Khang Nguyễn. Photos by Pete Walls and Ben Nguyễn.
When it comes to cơm tấm, most people are familiar with cơm tấm Sài Gòn, featuring grilled pork ribs as the vedette topping. But since the dish’s creation, and as it gained popularity across the Mekong delta and southern Vietnam, another cơm tấm variant emerged alongside cơm tấm Sài Gòn. This version became so cherished by the locals that it was named after its birthplace — cơm tấm Long Xuyên.
From Germany to 'King of Rap' Runner-up: How Tuimi Becomes a Hip-Hop Breakout Star
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- Published on 06 December 2024
- Written by Mầm.
Tuimi, a Vietnamese German singer and rapper, has become one of the most notable female voices in the local hip-hop scene and been making big waves since her return in 2019.
A Case for the Sweet-and-Sour Tamarind as Saigon's Official Municipal Tree
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- Published on 05 December 2024
- Written by Khôi Phạm. Top graphic by Dương Trương.
What is the municipal tree of Saigon? In popular culture, Hanoi is perhaps intricately linked with the paralyzing but often romanticized aroma of hoa sữa, while just over a hundred kilometers to the east, Hải Phòng proudly brandishes the name “the city of red phượng flowers.” Đà Lạt has too many flower varieties to choose just one, and settles for “the city of a thousand flowers.” Down south, Bến Tre’s abundance of coconut trees is famous nationwide. Ask any Saigoneer this question, and you’re likely to get one of two answers: chò nâu (dipterocarp) or me (tamarind).
Ruminate on Our Natural Legacies While Surrounded by Cây Sao at Ao Bà Om
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- Published on 04 December 2024
- Written by Paul Christiansen.
I never pass up an opportunity to reflect on chò nâu and its dipterocarp relative, cây sao. The massive trees that gracefully drag bare limbs upwards to unfurl canopies far above our heads were brought from their native highland terrains by the French in the 19th century and grown in Thảo Cầm Viên Sài Gòn. From there, they were distributed throughout colonial developments, including Trà Vinh. Today, they not only provide shade and beauty but invite ruminations on legacies of nature's place in subjugation and self-determination.
For Hội An Residents, Learning to Live With Floods Is a Fact of Life
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- Published on 03 December 2024
- Written by Alden Anderson. Photos by Alden Anderson.
The water reached my shoulders, and when I stepped into the street I suddenly felt the current trying to pull me into its invisible grasp. A familiar feeling that set off an alarm inside my head: “Be careful! It looks like nothing, but don’t get caught in it.”
Hanoi's Soviet-Style Khu Gia Binh and Life Amid Vietnam's Growing Pains
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- Published on 02 December 2024
- Written by Lã Khánh Giang. Illustrations by Ngọc Tạ.
Hanoi is often known in Vietnam as the land of a millennium-old civilization, a living archive of past Vietnam life. Each tiny alley within the capital can evoke a strong sense of nostalgia in visitors, as those locations encapsulate both wartime memories and charming quotidien moments. There’s one special place in Hanoi that has contributed to the city’s languid pace of life amid the nation’s rapid developments — khu gia binh.
Hẻm Gems: Amid Saigon's Heat, a Wintry Ambiance in Xocoati's Cozy Cocoa Drinks
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- Published on 29 November 2024
- Written by Thái An. Photos by Ben Nguyễn and Jimmy Art Devier.
Amidst Saigon’s year-round scorching heat, I crave coziness — a feeling that often comes with snuggling under heavy blankets in my Hanoian winter. I was searching for some comfort and “winter vibe” spots when one review, in particular, sparked my curiosity by mentioning (in my opinion) the greatest combination known to mankind: cocoa and Harry Potter. Brimming with expectations, I weaved through Saigon’s usual frantic roads to find a small alley, which surprisingly led to a spacious apartment complex.
Requiem for a Bàng Tree That Was Cut Down in Front of My Home
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- Published on 29 November 2024
- Written by Uyên Đỗ. Top image by Mai Khanh. Graphics by Dương Trương.
Curiosity drove me downstairs into the downpour. Out of the corner of my eye, I spotted the municipal workers — clad in orange-and-green uniforms, their clothes soaked — gathering around a crane. Their attention was focused upward. Following their gaze, I looked up, and froze.
The Calming Quietude of an Early Morning Stroll Through D1
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- Published on 29 November 2024
- Written by Andy Ip Thiên. Photos by Andy Ip Thiên.
As a city that is perpetually either sweltering hot or halfway under water, Saigon weather rarely includes cool breezes or overcast mornings. And yet, over the past few weeks, the city has experienced a handful of chilly mornings and soft sunlight, a welcome change from the usual heat and humidity that often appears at sunrise and lasts throughout the day.
What Will Become of Chợ Quê in the Era of Widespread Online Shopping?
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- Published on 27 November 2024
- Written by Thảo Nguyên. Top graphic by Ngọc Tạ. Illustrations by Dương Trương.
Firmly taking root in everyday life, our hometown markets — chợ quê — are not simply a place to trade, but also puzzle pieces that make up childhood memories, holiday excitement, and even tales of hardships and life milestones of countless people.
In Taiwan, a Vietnamese Baker Creates Bánh Mì Thịt From Scratch
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- Published on 26 November 2024
- Written by Mervin Lee. Photos by Mervin Lee.
“We’re going to Taipei on VietJet Air,” an acquaintance said to me. An international flight on Vietnam’s notoriously delayed airline didn’t sound like the best idea ever. But who would expect that I was set to fly to Tainan, a city on the island's southwest coast, just a few hours after the brief conversation with her. The reality was that I found it excruciatingly difficult to reject a cheap flight deal.
A Flight Over Đà Lạt in 1968–1971 Before the Tourism Boom
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- Published on 25 November 2024
- Written by Saigoneer.
If you’ve taken a trip to Lâm Đồng within the last few years, these scenes seem like a distant dream of a sparsely populated and verdant Đà Lạt that’s engulfed by nature.
The Sound of Revolution: How Socialist Realism Shaped Vietnam's Musical Identity
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- Published on 22 November 2024
- Written by Vũ Hoàng Long. Top image by Mai Khanh.
In the depths of my childhood memories lies a peculiar ritual: my grandfather feeding me baby powder while Vietnamese revolutionary songs, or “nhạc đỏ” (red music), played in the background. Without these melodic accompaniments, I would refuse to eat.
Cold War History With a Side of Nem Rán in Prague's Little Hanoi
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- Published on 22 November 2024
- Written by Khôi Phạm. Photos by Alberto Prieto.
Across English-speaking countries such as the US and Australia, the Vietnamese diaspora established close-knit “Little Saigon” towns whenever they settled down, founding large markets, starting financial services, and introducing southern fares like gỏi cuốn and bánh mì to the local population. Elsewhere in Europe, however, the Vietnamese community is often known as “Little Hanoi,” due to the regional makeup of the first wave of immigrants. Some, like Prague’s Little Hanoi, have flourished to the point of being a “city within a city,” boasting its own self-sufficient administrative services, schools, and housing.
How the Ghosts of iPhones Past Haunt Vietnam's Low-Income Communities
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- Published on 22 November 2024
- Written by Nhi Nguyễn. Illustration by Hannah Hoàng.
The current e-waste crisis in Vietnam is one example of global environmental apartheid.
