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Hẻm Gems: Wake up Early, We're Getting Hủ Tiếu Cá for Breakfast

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Published on 25 October 2023
Written by Thùy Trang. Photos by Cao Nhân.

When I used to live in Hanoi, I always knew that if an eatery only opens for half a day, the food is probably certified, at least by the locals, to be not only good, but excellent. There is something written in the local traditions that specific dishes should be served at particular times of the day.

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Hẻm Gems: On Falling Head Over Heels (Literally) for Dũng Ký's Mì Xào Giòn

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Published on 24 October 2023
Written by Uyên Đỗ. Photos by Cao Nhân.

When Saigoneer’s office relocated from District 1’s downtown to District 3 earlier this year, one of the instantly noticeable changes was the increase in affordable eating options.

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Hẻm Gems: From Cà Mau, Cô Xíu Brings Bánh Tầm Cà Ri Cay to Bình Thạnh

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Published on 23 October 2023
Written by Paul Christiansen. Photos by Alberto Prieto.

Recently, I’ve had the Mekong Delta on the mind. This month I made two trips down to research various elements of the watery region, and also spent time reading author Khải Đơn’s tremendous delta-focused book of poetry Drowning Dragon Slips by Burning Plain; read my review of the book here. And while I haven’t actually seen the movie adaptation Đất Rừng Phương Nam, it’s been impossible to avoid the promos that feature a stereotypical wooden boat easing along a narrow delta channel, while white herons rise and farmers trudge into the field wearing colorful clothing with black khăn rằn. 

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How One Saigon Gym Is Re-Inventing Fitness

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Published on 23 October 2023
Written by Saigoneer. Photos by Primal Performance Lab.

Technology has fundamentally altered how Saigoneers travel around the city, find and eat food, form and maintain relationships and make purchases. Such innovations can profoundly change how one approaches fitness here as well.

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Hẻm Gems: Bánh Đa Cua Hải Phòng, a Rare Northern Treat in D10

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Published on 22 October 2023
Written by Garrett MacLean. Photos by Cao Nhân.

On the way to Phú Thọ Indoor Sports Stadium in District 11, make a turn off 666/74 Ba Tháng Hai, go all the way to the far corner, and you’ll discover Triển Chiêu Quán’s bright yellow sign. Park underneath the canopy, walk up the ramp, and you’ll notice something stands out, but you might not know why — bunches of caramel-colored noodles in the kitchen area waiting to be enjoyed.

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Hẻm Gems: Bánh Canh Hẹ Is Phú Yên's Homage to Chives and the Sea

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Published on 21 October 2023
Written by Khang Nguyễn. Photos by Alberto Prieto.

Ever since I was a kid, I have had a general dislike towards vegetables, but green onion has always been an exception. I regard green onion as a garnish that can lighten up the whole dish, and it seems like whenever it’s absent from my cơm tấm or xôi mặn, I will instantly lose my enthusiasm to eat. But during my teenage years, my affection for scallion was challenged for the first time, when I encountered a photo of Phú Yên’s bánh canh hẹ online.

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A Glimpse Into the Epic Underground Shows of Vietnam Pro Wrestling

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Published on 20 October 2023
Written by Aurelien Foucault. Photos by Aurelien Foucault. .

Back in 2018, Saigon witnessed the birth of Vietnam Pro Wrestling (VPW), the first and only Pro Wrestlers in the whole of Vietnam, and a lot has changed since then.

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Hẻm Gems: The Best Cao Lầu Outside of Hội An Is in Tân Bình

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Published on 19 October 2023
Written by Khôi Phạm. Photos by Alberto Prieto.

Years ago, the first time I ate cao lầu, I committed a cardinal sin. As I gazed upon my freshly assembled bowl of noodles, without much thought, I asked the waitress for more sauce.

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Hẻm Gems: What Bún Cua Gia Lai Taught Me About Vietnam's Bond With Bún

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Published on 18 October 2023
Written by Khôi Phạm. Photos by Cao Nhân.

Not being a picky eater was somewhat of a personal point of pride for me growing up. I have my family to thank for this, as their immense patience and open-mindedness have encouraged me to explore as many eclectic delicacies and novel ingredients as possible during my formative years. So whenever a wild new dish comes along that challenges my palate so much I struggle to finish even one portion, I can’t help but consider it a personal blunder. Much apologies to bún cua Gia Lai, I have failed you.

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Hẻm Gems: From Nghệ An, a Turmeric-Tinged Miến Lươn Feast in D7

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Published on 17 October 2023
Written by Khôi Phạm. Photos by Đỗ Anh Chương.

Once upon a time, deep in the distant kingdom of District 7, there was a miến lươn place. 

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Hẻm Gems: A Trip to Bàn Cờ for Lạng Sơn’s Sweet and Sour Dry Phở

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Published on 16 October 2023
Written by Khôi Phạm. Photos by Brandon Coleman and Cao Nhân.

There’s not much you can say about phở that hasn't already been said. From its complicated origin to its deliciousness to its ubiquity on Saigon’s streets, the subject has been covered ad nauseam. However, phở chua Lạng Sơn — mixed dry phở with sweet and sour sauce — is uncharted territory.

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Khải Đơn's Poetry Debut Won't Shy Away From the Mekong Delta's Untold Complexities

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Published on 13 October 2023
Written by Paul Christiansen. Graphic by Mai Phạm.

Environmental devastation, irresponsible development, economic imperilment, social ills, war legacies and the abandonment of cultural traditions and connections: these multifaceted, interconnected realities threaten Vietnam’s Mekong Delta region.

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AISA Games Come to Saigon

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Published on 13 October 2023
Written by Saigoneer. Photos by AIS.

Australian International School, Saigon (AIS Saigon) is set to host students from Australian International Schools across Asia this November, for the highly anticipated AISA Games 2023. 

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Hẻm Gems: In Đà Nẵng, Góc Nhà Tụi Mình Is Where Tea Time Feels Like Home

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Published on 12 October 2023
Written by Như Quỳnh. Photos by Alberto Prieto.

As a Đà Nẵng native, I often get asked where and what to eat and drink by friends who are in town. The tried-and-true list of places in my mind always includes Góc Nhà Tụi Mình, which I’ve frequented nearly constantly for the past six years.

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Meet DeeDee, the Studio Behind Netflix Docuseries 'How to Become a Cult Leader'

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Published on 08 October 2023
Written by Paul Christiansen. Top graphic by Mai Phạm. Images courtesy of DeeDee.

With a frantic, rabid fury flickering in his eyes, Charles Manson swerves through technicolor 1960s Hollywood streets, the passengers in his convertible terrified by the crazed maneuvering of a man who would soon become one of America’s most infamous convicted murderers.

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Ngõ Nooks: In the Same Hanoi Building, a Music Fan's Essentials — Vinyls and Cocktails

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Published on 08 October 2023
Written by Oliver Newman. Photos by Oliver Newman.

Sharing a building, Montauk and LP Club might initially appear to be just another cafe and another record store, but their goals are far loftier than selling drinks and vinyl.

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Local Illustrator Recreates Saigon's Convenience Stores as Adorable Cartoon Houses

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Published on 06 October 2023
Written by Saigoneer. Illustrations by Nguyên Sinh.

In the early 2010s, convenience stores emerged as an affordable alternative for Vietnamese youths, especially those with limited disposable income, to chill. A decade later, the widespread mushrooming of these corner shops is proof that cửa hàng tiện lợi is now an indispensable part of the local urban tapestry, and they are here to stay.

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On Japan’s Shonan Coastline, a Wintry Vista of Mount Fuji

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Published on 06 October 2023
Written by Oliver Newman. Photos by Oliver Newman.

It was my first trip to Zushi Beach and the sun was beginning to set. 

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Viet Thanh Nguyen Memoir 'A Man of Two Faces' Releases Today

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Published on 02 October 2023
Written by Saigoneer.

A Man of Two Faces: A Memoir, a History, a Memorial, the new book by Pulitzer Prize-winner Viet Thanh Nguyen arrives from Grove City Press on October 3. 

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Finding Solace in the Placid Water of Trị An Lake as a City Dweller

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Published on 29 September 2023
Written by Uyên Đỗ. Photos by Khôi Phạm.

I took a deep breath, realizing that I was suspended in the midpoint of everything, above the calm, glassy surface of Trị An Lake and beneath the vast, enveloping azure sky that blanketed Mã Đà forest.

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