“It’s not something unfamiliar, but it’s been a few years since I last heard it. Stumbling upon this beautiful bucolic scene now has made me fall in love with the Mekong Delta’s đờn ca tài tử melodies again.”
It was a late afternoon when Dad took me on his boat across the river to visit our coconut grove that was hidden amongst tiny creeks. Occasionally, my dad prefers to row rather than drive, even though the road network where we live has vastly improved over the years, because he wants to enjoy the placid charms of the water. By chance, in between canopies of nipah palms and mangroves, we came across a đờn ca tài tử troupe performing on a boat. As true-blue southerners, they sipped on rice wine and snacked on rustic treats, while singing some familiar tunes that they knew by heart. It warmed my heart to be able to witness such a lively scene of my hometown.
The encounter compelled me, a child of the riverine southern Vietnam who was born into the sounds of đờn ca tài từ, to ask around to learn whatever I could about this distinctive form of performance art.
Đờn ca tài tử is an indispensable part of southern life. Photo via Vietnam News Agency.
Once upon a time in history
Đờn ca tài tử is an idiosyncratic form of performance art unique to the delta provinces of southern Vietnam. It came about at the end of the 19th century, mostly created and performed by the working class as a way to wind down after long days of labor.
According to early accounts passed down by southern elders, đờn ca tài tử has roots in the ceremonial music of Huế’s Imperial Court and South-Central Vietnam localities. When the Cần Vương movement spread southwards, musicians and court performers brought Huế’s musical traditions down here. Since then, the musicality of Huế’s courtly music has taken roots in the spirits of the people here.
Đờn ca tài tử features distinctive tonal qualities that can’t be mistaken for any other genres of music. Accompanying the melodies are lyrics that widely embrace colloquial expressions and local culture, playing a part in elevating the casualness and homeliness of southern Vietnam into an art form. Initially, đờn ca tài tử was often performed alongside tứ tuyệt (four-string instruments): đàn kìm (moon flute), đàn cò (two-stringed fiddle), đàn tranh (16-string zither), and đàn bầu (monochord). Later modernization relaxed the setting, so recent performances don’t require all four to be present. Depending on the occasion, the number of instruments varies, and đàn bầu could be replaced by a guitar phím lõm (southern scalloped-fret guitar).
A đờn ca tài tử band in Saigon in 1911. Photo via Wikimedia.
By the beginning of the 20th century, đờn ca tài tử has become a popular musical movement across southern Vietnam, especially in Bạc Liêu, Vĩnh Long, Long An, Mỹ Tho, Saigon, etc. Bạc Liêu, in particular, was one of the major breeding grounds for đờn ca tài tử. Here, during the last decade of the 19th century, Lê Tài Khí — nicknamed Nhạc Khị — was the first to found Ban cổ nhạc Bạc Liêu (The Bạc Liêu Folk Music Ensemble).
Nhạc Khị spent much effort editing and compiling đờn ca tài tử’s 20 classic compositions into four categories: Sáu Bắc, Ba Nam, Bốn Oán and Bảy Bài. He wrote four originals: ‘Ngự giá đăng lâu,’ ‘Minh hoàng thưởng nguyệt,’ ‘Phò mã giao duyên,’ and ‘Ái tử kê.’ All four are considered Tứ Bửu (four treasures) by đờn ca tài tử enthusiasts.
‘Dạ cổ hoài lang’ by Cao Văn Lầu, as performed by Ba Tu and Bích Phượng.
Amongst the timeless tunes of đờn ca tài tử, ‘Dạ cổ hoài lang,’ written by Cao Văn Lầu is a shining beacon of artistry. From fruit plantations to immense waterways, from young to old, most people of the south can probably sing at least a few sentences of ‘Dạ cổ hoài lang.’
As researcher Phan Thanh Nhàn said: “It has blended into the quotidian life of the people like an artistic constant. It’s pure and simple in an unbelievable way. It infiltrates our souls and takes root. In this century, ‘Dạ cổ hoài lang’ is a gift from Cao Văn Lầu to this generation of contemporary Vietnamese. This melody has marked a crucial milestone in our history and sparkles like a star in the universe of Vietnamese music.”
Đờn ca tài tử instruments. Photo via Vietnam News Agency.
In my hometown, đờn ca tài tử is usually performed in small groups, music clubs, or family gatherings — most commonly as duets, trios or big ensembles. Musicians sit around on wooden platforms or grass mattresses, and singers can follow the standard lyrics or freestyle.
It’s not too difficult to pick up đờn ca tài tử, but to be good at it takes a lot of dedication. Even I can sing a few popular numbers if I get some help on rhythm and vocal embellishments. Still, pursuing this art form professionally takes at least three years of practice on fundamental techniques like rao, rung, nhấn, khảy, búng, phi, vê, láy, day, chớp, chụp, etc. Additionally, performers must learn to perform in solo, trio, quartet, or quintet arrangements, with different permutations of instruments. Newbie singers, solo or duet, are required to master fundamental pieces before attempting their own embellishments.
From the village to the world
Đờn ca tài tử has long been infused in the lifeblood of southerners. Its melodies and lyrics could appear on any stage in a spontaneous manner, from clamorous, solemn festivals to casual corners under the fronds of coconut trees or even on passing riverboats.
Once the 20th century came, đờn ca tài tử thrived, spreading its influence to many localities across the country. Integrating cultural threads of northern tuồng opera, Huế’s royal court music, and southern ceremonial music, it’s a diverse genre yet still stays instantly recognizable. Đờn ca tài tử, thus, is like a current sweeping past Vietnamese migration history from north to south, seamlessly blending with the local traditions of the places it touches.
The rise of a crop of famous chanteuses also contributed to the national fame of đờn ca tài tử. Artistes like Thanh Tuyết, Kim Thanh and Ngọc Đặng won over generations of listeners thanks to their dulcet tones and emotive voices. Through their sounds, they not only preserve but elevate the worth of this southern music genre, bringing it closer to the ears and hearts of audiences nationwide.
Đờn ca tài từ was performed in France for the first time in 1900 on the stage of the Indochina Theater as part of the Paris World Expo. Cléo de Merode is the dancer in the middle. Image via Parisien Images.
Transcending the borders of Vietnam, around 100 years ago, this art form appeared on stages in Paris and Marseille. A đờn ca tài tử troupe, lead by Nguyễn Tống Triều, flew to France to join the Paris World Expo in 1900. There, they provided accompaniment for Parisian dancer Cléo de Mérode’s dance routine, though the performance was a bizarre blend of Khmer costume, Vietnamese music, and Javanese and Khmer dance moves. Following the Paris expo, the troupe was invited to perform at the colonial exposition in 1906 in Marseille.
UNESCO officially designated đờn ca tài tử an Intangible Cultural Heritage on December 5, 2013. Provinces across southern Vietnam have all vowed to preserve and promote the art form. Numerous clubs and informal groups have been established while competitions and festivals focusing on đờn ca tài tử are also common across the Mekong Delta. The Đờn Ca Tài Tử Festival is held every year in rotation amongst 21 provinces in the region. The art form is considered a unique cultural tradition that contributes to southern Vietnam’s tourism appeal.
Google Doodle honoring đờn ca tài tử on December 5, 2023 to commemorate the 10th year anniversary of its recognition as a UNESCO heritage. Image via Google.
In đờn ca tài tử, one can appreciate a range of different sentiments of the human condition: love for one’s motherland, romantic love, familial love, friendship, and sibling bond. The words and the melodies, the singers and the musicians — every element blends together to enchant anyone who’s fallen for the Mekong Delta. For me, these memories have been etched deep into my psyche: sitting in place listening to my grandpa’s đờn ca tài tử tunes, tagging along on my dad’s boat to catch fish and shrimps, bucolic afternoons by a platter of rustic nhậu snacks and jamming along with our friendly neighbors.
Karaoke wasn’t a thing back then, and not every family could afford actual instruments. So rice bowls, chopsticks, and plastic buckets became makeshift tools for the “countryside orchestra” to produce a kickass evening show. For me, đờn ca tài tử is a dictionary of the southern language, spelling out the magnanimous and hospitable spirits of the Mekong people. It doesn’t matter where — the people can sing, dance, have fun, and connect.
A đờn ca tài tử-themed stamp set. Photos via Viet Times.
Đờn ca tài tử amid the pulse of modern life
It’s not always easy for the traditional traits of đờn ca tài tử to fit in with the pace of a new age. But I can feel it in my heart how these seemingly obsolete relics can seep into our contemporary life.
Nowadays, for those aspiring to study đờn ca tài tử, there are many proper courses for them to partake in, taught by actual artisans. For instance, every weekend, the Ninh Kiều Cultural Center in Cần Thơ holds free classes led by Ái Hằng, a veteran đờn ca tài tử performer. This is a rather special course whose students hail from an expansive age range, from just a few years old to 70 years old. Pupils also come from all walks of life, all gathering here to learn, be it as a job module or just simply a passionate pastime. In Saigon, there’s a đờn ca tài tử club boasting some 2,000 experienced artists all doing their part to establish a regular performing calendar to serve both locals and tourists.
A modern rendition of ‘Dạ cổ hoài lang’ on the reality TV competition Anh Trai Vượt Ngàn Chông Gai.
Notably, đờn ca tài tử has also entered school programs as an extracurricular activity to expose younger generations to this retro art form. A great example is the đờn ca tài tử elective of Nguyễn Chí Thanh High School in Tây Ninh Province.
I was personally touched by the footage showcasing the art of đờn ca tài tử on my favorite reality show, 2 Days 1 Night. On-screen, I can witness the historical episodes and familiar tunes from my riverine hometown being celebrated and promoted. All told, these developments make me more hopeful that, even during this modern era when many new genres have emerged catering to younger tastes, đờn ca tài tử still has a place, existing as is with its precious lyrics and melodies.
