What to See, Taste, and Do If You Have a Free Morning in Tân Định
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- Published on 07 March 2023
- Written by Khôi Phạm. Photos by Cao Nhân.
There’s not much you’ll need to do to persuade me to drive, walk, crawl, scuttle or skate along the Nhiêu Lộc-Thị Nghè Canal — I adore its shaded, tree-lined pavements that much.
I Grew up Among Ducks in the Mekong Delta. They Always Remind Me of Home.
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- Published on 06 March 2023
- Written by Mai HD. Top image by Mai Khanh.
On a recent ritual walk around my suburb, I was held up by the sight of a middle-aged man with his “fur kid.” I introduced myself and when he heard the word “Vietnam,” his eyes lit up and with a smile as he tumbled out the words: “The Mekong Delta. Ducks.”
Vignette: For Cafe 81 and the '404 Not Found' Places of Our Lives
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- Published on 06 March 2023
- Written by Paul Christiansen.
We all have them.
Hẻm Gems: Cà Phê Sữa and Cơm Tấm With a Side of Espionage History
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- Published on 04 March 2023
- Written by Paul Christiansen. Photos by Cao Nhân.
Kimchi is not a common cơm tấm accouterment. The extra helping of chili pepper heat, palate-cleansing bitterness and cabbage leaf crunch doesn't taste out of place beside a fully loaded plate of broken rice, it’s just not a common feature of the southern staple. This is not so at Cà Phê Đỗ Phủ-Cơm Tấm Đại Hàn, where the story behind kimchi’s existence on the plate is more interesting than the meal itself.
Tân Định Market, D1's Nearly 100-Year-Old Trading Hub
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- Published on 04 March 2023
- Written by Tim Doling. Top photo by Cao Nhân.
Originally known as the marché de Phu-Hoa, Tân Định Market at 1 Nguyễn Hữu Cầu in District 1 is one of the city’s most historic markets, but it was the opening of the stylish French market building of 1927 which brought it to worldwide attention.
From Vauban Citadel to Modernist Icon: The History of Turtle Lake
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- Published on 03 March 2023
- Written by Leo. Graphic by Mai Khanh.
The area of Công Trường Quốc Tế and Turtle Lake (Hồ Con Rùa) has been through many changes both in design and function throughout the history of Saigon. First, it housed a gate for a Nguyễn-dynasty citadel, then the land was flattened for a water tower in accordance with a new urban plan by the French colonial government, and finally, the square became a diplomatic display for past allies of the previous regime.
How Nhà Thờ Tân Định, Saigon's Iconic Pink Church, Came to Be
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- Published on 01 March 2023
- Written by Tim Doling. Top photo by Alberto Prieto.
You just have to mention the “pink church” and everyone knows which one you mean. But few are aware that the building in question — Tân Định Church — is one of Saigon’s oldest and most important Roman Catholic institutions.
From Swampland to Heartland: The History of Bến Thành Market
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- Published on 01 March 2023
- Written by Hiếu Y. Graphic by Mai Khanh.
From the very first discussions in 1868 regarding a new marketplace for Saigon, it was not until 1914, that Bến Thành Market became a reality. The birth of the market was like a dream come true, one that came together after nearly five decades of debate in search of solutions for the city’s infrastructure woes.
A Brief History of District 1's Collège d’Adran, Saigon's Oldest School
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- Published on 27 February 2023
- Written by Hương Lê.
Driving past the Saigon Zoological and Botanical Garden toward Nguyễn Hữu Cảnh Street, many of us might not notice the presence of Võ Trường Toản Secondary School and Trưng Vương High School. The two institutions once belonged to one single entity, Collège d’Adran, which many historical sources deem the oldest school in Saigon.
Ở đó ở đây Sài Gòn — A Love-Hate Letter to the Maze of Paradoxes
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- Published on 27 February 2023
- Written by Adrien Jean.
Editor's note: Adrien Jean is a Saigon-based photographer and a frequent contributor to Saigoneer's Darkroom series. His photos often depict the precise moments in time when the visual elements of our daily life line up just right to evoke a special feeling. In this special photo collection, which contains all of Jean's favorite shots of Saigon, he penned a loving ode, titled 'Love/Hate Letter to Saigon.'
Hẻm Gems: The Midnight Hủ Tiếu Only for Saigon's Most Patient Night Owls
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- Published on 25 February 2023
- Written by Hương Lê. Photos by Cao Nhân.
As a Saigonese who has lived abroad for half of her life, I have a huge craving for hủ tiếu khô (dry noodles), my go-to breakfast meal and a dish my family always made sure to get on our way to my mother’s hometown in the Mekong Delta. Something special about the combination of the rich rice noodle, bone broth, and pork slices made us return for more. Though I later moved to the US and was exposed to other versions of dry noodle dishes and flavorful cuisines from different parts of the world, the memory of savoring a rich and topping-full hủ tiếu khô bowl from the motherland still remains in my mind.
Inside the Sawdust Alley in D8 Where Old Furniture Goes to Get Repurposed
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- Published on 22 February 2023
- Written by Uyên Đỗ. Photos by Lê Thái Hoàng Nguyên.
My lungs began to heave with raspy coughs as I ventured deeper into the alley of 124 Phạm Thế Hiển.
Amid Bảo Lộc Hills, a Wooden Cafe Floats Amongst the Clouds
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- Published on 20 February 2023
- Written by Saigoneer.
In the middle of nowhere Bảo Lộc, perched on the side of an alternative national road is the wooden carapace of Nguyen Coffee, a veritable “Noah’s ark” welcoming travelers in for a short break to enjoy its drinks and spectacular view of the Đá Bàn Stream below.
What to See, Taste, and Do If You Have 3 Hours to Kill in Chợ Lớn
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- Published on 19 February 2023
- Written by Khôi Phạm.
One of my favorite parts about being in a new city is dropping by any random neighborhood and just walking around until my feet get sore. Walking affords me the leisurely pace and multi-dimensional freedom to look up, look down, peek at things and places, and stop along the track to let my senses be pleasantly overwhelmed by the onslaught of urban quirks.
Hẻm Gems: Tiệm Cơm Ninh Giang, a 'Secret' Hakka Feast Only for Those in the Know
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- Published on 15 February 2023
- Written by Brendan Ryan. Photos by Mervin Lee.
I first heard about Tiệm Cơm Ninh Giang 寧江客家飯店 from some Hoa friends in the city.
Giang Brothers Hits Milan Streets for Sleek Fashion Shoot After Setting New World Record
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- Published on 15 February 2023
- Written by Saigoneer.
After establishing another Guinness record in Milan, Vietnam’s acrobats extraordinaires, the Giang Brothers, collaborated with local photographer Quỷ Cốc Tử to produce a mesmerizing fashion shoot that marries their outstanding athleticism and the elegance of sharp suits.
A Day in the Life of Phùng Hưng, a D5 Street With Two Personalities
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- Published on 13 February 2023
- Written by Jim Selkin. Photos by Jim Selkin. Top image by Phan Nhi.
Nestled in the historic Chợ Lớn section of District 5, Phùng Hưng Street runs from the canal along Võ Văn Kiệt through to Hồng Bàng. Within its length, the street has two distinct personalities.
Hẻm Gems: From a Historic D5 Shophouse, An Duyên Serves up Tasty Chợ Lớn Classics
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- Published on 10 February 2023
- Written by Khôi Phạm. Photos by Cao Nhân and Alberto Prieto.
An Duyên Chợ Lớn transcends Chợ Lớn quán stereotypes of rustic mom-and-pops with rickety amenities to provide a comfortable dining experience, made memorable thanks to aesthetically pleasing décor and well-crafted Hoa delicacies.
On Táo's Transformation From Rapper to Curator of Good Taste
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- Published on 09 February 2023
- Written by Tài Thy. Photos courtesy of Táo. Graphic by Phan Nhi.
"The artist can’t reflect the truths of life if they don’t live, can they?"
The Ethereal Fever Dream Inside MV 'Dung Họa' by Hanoi Indie Duo Limebócx
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- Published on 08 February 2023
- Written by Saigoneer.
After years in production, Hanoi indie duo Limebócx’s long-awaited music video for ‘Dung Họa’ was finally released this month, a much-needed treat for fans who have waited years for new music from the pair.
