The History of Hanoi's Lost Tramway Network
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- Published on 23 March 2023
- Written by Tim Doling.
When they first drew up plans for a citywide tramway network in 1894, it seemed as though the Hanoi authorities would follow Saigon’s example by opting for steam traction. Yet, by the time government approval was forthcoming in 1899, advances in technology made it possible to construct the entire system as a state-of-the-art, one-meter gauge electric tramway.
Ngõ Nooks: Xóm Hạ Hồi's 30-Year-Old Bún Thang Stands the Test of Time
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- Published on 23 March 2023
- Written by Hà Tạ. Photos by Long Nguyễn.
If you peel through the peaceful residential areas around the Quang Trung and Trần Hưng Đạo crossroads, you might just chance upon Bún Thang 11 Hạ Hồi, a humble, household noodle spot.
At Phước Hải's Lễ Hội Nghinh Ông, Everything Every Whale All at Once
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- Published on 23 March 2023
- Written by Adrien Jean. Photos by Adrien Jean.
Phước Hải is a fishing township in the south of Vietnam, a short ride away from Vũng Tàu.
Bamboo Dance, Folk Tunes, and Fiery Guitar: The Spectable Behind Dzung's New Live EP
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- Published on 22 March 2023
- Written by Saigoneer. Images courtesy of Dzung.
Following his critically acclaimed latest album "Dzanca," progressive metal guitarist Dzung is gearing up for the release of a special EP that chronicles his full live set at HOZO music festival taking place last December.
Ngõ Nooks: Căng Tin Cafe, a Gateway to the Past for the City's New Youth
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- Published on 21 March 2023
- Written by Peter Cowan. Photos by Chris Humphrey.
Hanoi’s café scene is saturated with cafés selling a vision of the past.
Ngõ Nooks: Blue Crab and Beer for a Bodacious Snack on the Hanoi Sidewalk
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- Published on 20 March 2023
- Written by Linh Phạm. Photos by Alberto Prieto.
Of all seafood in Vietnam, ghẹ (blue crab) is among the most expensive. Even at wholesale markets, these crustaceans can fetch from VND300,000 to 400,000 a kilogram and any buffet deal that boasts their presence naturally comes with an exorbitant price tag. It was a personal surprise for me to find this highly sought-after delicacy right on the pavement at Quán Ghẹ Cô Tươi.
The Ugly Truth of the Life and Impending Demise of the Hoàn Kiếm Turtle
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- Published on 18 March 2023
- Written by Paul Christiansen. Graphic by Phạm Hoàng Ngọc Mai.
Everyone knows the mythological story of the Hoàn Kiếm turtle.
I Went Cloud-Hunting and Found Peace Atop Đà Lạt's Tea Hill
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- Published on 16 March 2023
- Written by Hương Lê. Photos by Hương Lê.
Northern California is blessed with serene nature. Growing up there, pathless trails and cloudy mountain peaks were my safe havens, and when returning home on break from college, it was a tradition to visit my favorite hideout place: a curvy hill near my old high school. Sitting atop the hill and looking down at the city offer a peaceful means to recharge and quiet my mind. The appearance of clouds adds more to the valley’s awe-inspiring nature.
Go Through Centuries of Ceramic History at Hanoi's Bát Tràng Museum
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- Published on 15 March 2023
- Written by Léo-Paul Guyot. Photos by Léo-Paul Guyot.
The Pottery Museum in Làng Gốm Bát Tràng (Bát Tràng Ceramics Village) showcases the cultural heritage of the village through its exhibits of the works of past and present artisans.
Ngõ Nooks: A Blissful Fish Feast at Bún Cá Sâm Cây Si
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- Published on 14 March 2023
- Written by Trang Bùi. Photos by Trang Bùi.
As hot as it gets, Hanoi’s scorching summer is no match for delightful fish rolls and refreshing sour soup.
I Saw the World's Most Handsome Bird Right in Vietnam's Hidden Backyard
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- Published on 13 March 2023
- Written by Alexander Yates. Photos by Alexander Yates.
Everywhere I go in Vietnam, I keep my eyes peeled for the incredible birds that call this country home. Sometimes I don’t even realize that I’m doing it. I scan the horizon above low hills for migratory hawks. I stare into breaks in the foliage for passing buttonquail. I peer into rice paddies, fingers crossed for a cryptic snipe. And, of course, there’s Facebook. I refresh Facebook over and over again, waiting for the arrival of the mandarin duck. Its scientific name is Aix galericulata, which one assumes means “prettiest goddamn duck in the world.”
Ngõ Nooks: Cozy up at Ẩn Cà Phê With Morning Coffees and Night Cocktails
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- Published on 10 March 2023
- Written by Oliver Newman. Photos by Alberto Prieto.
In the Mood for Love, Wong Kar-wai’s elegantly restrained movie about married lovers resisting adultery, offers up a delicious cocktail of emotions. At least, that is the concept behind the drinks menu at Ẩn Cà phê, a coffee and cocktail bar southwest of Tây Hồ.
Wander Through the Streets of the Old Quarter in 1995 Hanoi
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- Published on 10 March 2023
- Written by Saigoneer.
What do you miss most about the 1990s?
The Facetious Gender Politics of Gỗ Lim, Hanoi's Feminist Post-Punk Quintet
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- Published on 10 March 2023
- Written by Thi Nguyễn.
In an example of cruel irony, October 20 is when we celebrate annual Vietnam Women's Day, and also the anniversary of the passing of Mai Nga (commonly known as Nga Nhí), the lead singer of Gỗ Lim — a Hanoi-based female post-punk band that, albeit short-lived, struck a blow for women’s representation in rock and metal music in Vietnam in 2011 and 2012.
In the Mekong Delta, Ferries Are Childhood Friends and Daily Companions
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- Published on 09 March 2023
- Written by Morgan Ommer. Photos by Morgan Ommer..
The Mekong Delta is called Đồng bằng Sông Cửu Long in Vietnamese — the Nine Dragons River, for the way the mighty Mekong splits into multiple strands as it nears its final destination, the East Sea.
The Unbearable Delight of Watching a Live Football Match at Hàng Đẫy Stadium
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- Published on 08 March 2023
- Written by Linh Phạm. Photos by Alberto Prieto.
“The government sells it for VND100,000. Just give me VND150,000. Gate 3, right in the center.”
What to See, Taste, and Do If You Have a Free Morning in Tân Định
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- Published on 07 March 2023
- Written by Khôi Phạm. Photos by Cao Nhân.
There’s not much you’ll need to do to persuade me to drive, walk, crawl, scuttle or skate along the Nhiêu Lộc-Thị Nghè Canal — I adore its shaded, tree-lined pavements that much.
I Grew up Among Ducks in the Mekong Delta. They Always Remind Me of Home.
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- Published on 06 March 2023
- Written by Mai HD. Top image by Mai Khanh.
On a recent ritual walk around my suburb, I was held up by the sight of a middle-aged man with his “fur kid.” I introduced myself and when he heard the word “Vietnam,” his eyes lit up and with a smile as he tumbled out the words: “The Mekong Delta. Ducks.”
Vignette: For Cafe 81 and the '404 Not Found' Places of Our Lives
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- Published on 06 March 2023
- Written by Paul Christiansen.
We all have them.
Hẻm Gems: Cà Phê Sữa and Cơm Tấm With a Side of Espionage History
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- Published on 04 March 2023
- Written by Paul Christiansen. Photos by Nguyễn Lương Cao Nhân.
Kimchi is not a common cơm tấm accouterment. The extra helping of chili pepper heat, palate-cleansing bitterness and cabbage leaf crunch doesn't taste out of place beside a fully loaded plate of broken rice, it’s just not a common feature of the southern staple. This is not so at Cà Phê Đỗ Phủ-Cơm Tấm Đại Hàn, where the story behind kimchi’s existence on the plate is more interesting than the meal itself.
