Meeting up for a Chinese-style breakfast often means gathering around stacked baskets of dim sum or diving into hearty bowls of wonton noodles. But if you're looking for something lighter, a serving of cheung fun might offer the perfect balance.

Cheung fun (腸粉), often likened to Vietnamese bánh cuốn, is made from thin sheets of steamed rice batter wrapped around various fillings like shrimp, minced pork, or vegetables. The name cheung fun loosely translates to “intestine noodles,” a nod to its coiled shape rather than its ingredients, which contain no actual offal.

The dish originated in Guangdong and has since spread globally through Chinese diaspora communities, adapting to local palates wherever it landed. In Vietnam, it’s commonly known as bánh cuốn Quảng Đông and is a staple of breakfast tables in Chợ Lớn, Saigon’s historic Chinatown. If you happen to wander through early in the day, you might come across Ngọc’s small cheung fun stall tucked into a hẻm in Phùng Hưng Market.

Ngọc, a Teochew descent, runs the stall with her husband, whose family hails from Guandong.

“This dish is now popular in many places like Singapore and Hong Kong. Each region has its own way of making it — some use one type of filling, others another, depending on their own take,” Ngọc explains. “My brother learned the original recipe and taught me, and I adjusted the seasoning to better suit local tastes. In China, the flavors are much milder, so I had to make some changes..”

If bánh cuốn is made on a stretched cloth and lifted with wooden sticks, cheung fun requires a multi-tiered steamer — one level for greens, one for fillings, and two for the rice sheets.

Ngọc’s batter starts with fresh rice soaked overnight and ground daily. Before pouring the batter, she brushes each tray with a thin layer of oil to prevent sticking and give the sheets a smooth, glossy finish. Each tray receives a ladle of batter, spread into a thin layer that cooks in just two minutes over rising steam. She lifts and rolls each sheet, slicing them into neat sections before plating.

Classic cheung fun comes with fillings like minced pork, shrimp, or egg, with the mildly seasoned rice sheet acting as a backdrop for the fresh ingredients to shine. At Ngọc’s stall, the dish is served with steamed bok choy and additional fillings like scallops and imitation crab. “I also make my own sauce, adding a bit of sa tế to match local tastes while keeping it true to tradition,” she explains.

The first bite is all about balance — soft rice sheets, a flavorful filling, a touch of sesame oil, and just enough heat to wake up the palate. It’s a Chinese breakfast that doesn’t demand a feast, yet leaves you perfectly content to take on the day.