Dustbins, tree branches, advertising stands and tarps, leftover Christmas decorations, whatever pot, pan, ladle or utensil left unattended in the family kitchen, and at least one street vendor’s bánh khọt mold: whatever wasn’t bolted down got caught up in the wave of đi bão that filled Saigon’s streets last night.
When the final whistle blew on Vietnam’s hard-fought victory over Thailand in the ASEAN Cup finals last night, we all knew what was coming. Like a maelstrom that begins with raindrops followed by thunder, it started with plastic horns followed by banging metal and revving engines.
Photo by Paul Christiansen.
Taking a grab from the Phạm Ngũ Lão Ward restaurant where I watched the game to my apartment in Phú Nhuận was out of the question. Even if I were to get a driver, that would mean missing out on one of the most glorious elements of modern Vietnamese culture: đi bão.
Photos by Paul Christiansen.
Of the thousands that waved flags and shouted atop bikes in the city, I doubt many were ardent football diehards. Few would be interested in discussing shrewd corner kick arrangement to disallow a ball from bouncing in the box, or transition offense utilizing the wings. The night wasn’t about football, really. It was about celebrating Vietnam, as understood through collective victory.
The day had begun with concerns over camouflaged neighbors narcing to collect a cut of recently upped traffic violations and ended with bikes violating every rule imaginable in the name of collective jubilation. Drivers extended hands across road dividers in an endless series of high-fives while red lights ushered in opportunities for impromptu hype-man to dismount and lead the crowd in chants. Shirts came off, and cheeky signs scribbled on cardboard went up.
The crowds after Vietnam’s Quarter-Final Victory Against Syria in the 2018 Asia Games. Photo by Sebastia Galbany
Culture is an increasingly sticky word, and the more one examines it in a globalized world, the more one might suspect it's just a gimmick to sell tours and employ academics. Sometimes, I question if culture is little more than whether one removes the anchovy guts before fermenting the fish into sauce. The only difference between Thai fish sauce and Vietnamese fish sauce is often how long it sits in the barrels, after all. But then, a night like last night occurs when Vietnam erupts in an outpouring of national love and pride and fellow feeling. These emotions surely exist elsewhere, but no nation expresses them with the same sights, sounds, smells, and feels. You don’t have to be a football fan, but if you want to understand Vietnamese culture, schedule your trip around international football tournaments and hope you get lucky.
[Top image: After Vietnam’s Quarter-Final Victory Against Syria in the 2018 Asia Games. Photo by by Sebastia Galbany.]
