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On Grappling With a Consumerist Christmas in Saigon

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Published on 26 December 2025
Written by Paul Christiansen. Photos by Alberto Prieto.

Growing up in America, Christmas meant arriving at my grandmother's house and immediately devouring a handmade gingerbread cookie drenched in sugar; driving with my Dad to “candy cane lane,” where homeowners took particular pride in stringing colorful lights on their gutters, windows and frontyard pines; and sneaking to our living room’s Christmas tree at 5am to sit in the dark staring at the presents, waiting until my mom said we were allowed to wake up and open them. Christmas began when Mannheim Steamroller’s Christmas songs played on the long ride home from Thanksgiving with relatives and continued through snowy Christmas tree lots, studies paused for classroom parties with pizza and soda pop, and the 1966 Grinch cartoon played on repeat.

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Grindr Year-End Report Names Vietnam as Country With Biggest Top Shortage

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Published on 23 December 2025
Written by Saigoneer.

Ever since Spotify launched its first global Wrapped function a few years ago, December has turned into an exciting season of stats-driven year-end reviews. “Wrapping” is now a tradition embraced by numerous apps, such as Strava, Duolingo, YouTube, Reddit, and of course, Grindr.

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How Nhà Thờ Tân Định, Saigon's Iconic Pink Church, Came to Be

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Published on 22 December 2025
Written by Tim Doling. Top photo by Alberto Prieto.

You just have to mention the “pink church” and everyone knows which one you mean. But few are aware that the building in question — Tân Định Church — is one of Saigon’s oldest and most important Roman Catholic institutions.

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Waterfalls, Langur, Oysters and Abandoned Colonial Villas: A Lăng Cô Getaway

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Published on 22 December 2025
Written by Paul Christiansen. Photos by Alberto Prieto.

What lies between Đà Nẵng and Huế?

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Đà Lạt’s Indigenous Pine Trees, Tropical Miracles Threatened by Urbanization

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Published on 21 December 2025
Written by Paul Christiansen. Illustrations by by Ngọc Tạ.

“The shimmering pine trees stand in silence / Branches and leaves seem to have sunk silently. / How can one distinguish between reality and fantasy!”

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Saigon Unveils Plan to Build 2 Pedestrian Bridges Over Tôn Đức Thắng Street

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Published on 18 December 2025
Written by Saigoneer.

Tourists will soon lose one of their favorite “crossing Saigon streets is so crazy!” filming locations when two new pedestrian bridges connecting to Bạch Đằng Wharf are completed. 

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5 Vietnamese Brands for Christmas Gifts That Celebrate Local Creativity and Culture

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Published on 16 December 2025
Written by Khôi Phạm. Top graphic by Mai Khanh.

Even though Christmas is arguably the most important holiday of the year in the west, it is not a traditional special occasion in Vietnam, at least not in the same way Vietnamese go gaga over Tết.

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In Nguyễn Phan Quế Mai's New Novel, Saigon's Rhythms Hum in the Background

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Published on 15 December 2025
Written by Paul Christiansen. Photos by Alberto Prieto.

“I’m always homesick for Vietnam. To write is to return home. That's why I had to bring Vietnam alive onto the pages. I had to hear the people speak, I had to listen to the music, to the language; I had to smell the food, see the landscape — that's my way of returning home. Whenever I’m homesick, I just return home via my writing.”

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From Cháo Lòng to Teochew Treats: How Vietnam's Regional Cuisines Embrace Offal

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Published on 15 December 2025
Written by Thu Hà. Illustrations by Mai Khanh.

In his essay collection Miếng ngon Hà Nội (Hanoi Delicacies), Vũ Bằng raves about one of his favorite snacks: “Though they’re all inside the pig, each organ is tasty in a completely different way: the liver is both savory and bitter, even aromatic when enjoyed with basil; the heart is soft and supply in the mouth; the stomach is clamorously crunchy; the uterus has an incredible bite; while the intestine is just fantastic, chewy at first bite, but then turns tender.”

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Slices of Life in Saigon, Huế, Hanoi in 1989 on Film

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Published on 15 December 2025
Written by Saigoneer. Photos by Stefan Hajdu.

What is it about coming across old photos that tugs on our heartstrings so much, even when they depict a time when some of us weren’t alive yet?

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'Đời Gió Bụi,' Vietnamese Version of Nguyễn Phan Quế Mai's Novel 'Dust Child,' Released This Week

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Published on 10 December 2025
Written by Saigoneer.

Originally written in English and already translated into more than 15 languages, Đời gió bụi (Dust Child) was released in Quế Mai's mother tongue on December 8.

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Just 50km From Hanoi, Đường Lâm Village Is a Charming Historical Relic

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Published on 09 December 2025
Written by Saigoneer. Photos by Marcus Lacey.

If one were to strike out west from Hanoi and follow the Red River for some 50 kilometers, there they will find Đường Lâm Village — a quintessence of rural Vietnam.

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Ngõ Nooks: Okachan Shokudo, a Comforting Japanese ‘Cơm Bình Dân’ in Hanoi

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Published on 07 December 2025
Written by Linh Phạm. Photos by Linh Phạm. Graphic by Tiên Nguyễn.

If there is a restaurant that is the antithesis of the biting cold of Hanoi, it is Okachan Shokudo.

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Review: Quán Kỳ Nam Is an Instant Classic of Contemporary Vietnamese Cinema

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Published on 07 December 2025
Written by Khôi Phạm.

Quán Kỳ Nam is a cozy, languorous film that might elude some viewers who don’t have the patience to sit around sipping on tea while waiting for hoa quỳnh to blossom. Still, just like waiting for those petals to unfurl, if you manage to sit still until the end, the result is a tender beauty whose scent will linger on even after the flower is gone.

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Inside Quảng Nam's School for Children From Ethnic Minorities, Designed by VTN Architects

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Published on 04 December 2025
Written by Saigoneer.

Can a school protect against harsh climate conditions and foster productive academic and social activities in a sustainable and affordable way, while paying attention to the aesthetic values of the region?

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On Finding Packaged Existential Relief at Saigon's Convenience Stores

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Published on 03 December 2025
Written by Uyên Đỗ. Photos by Uyên Đỗ.

When running away from life’s many grievances, I often find myself at the convenience store.

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Saigon Demolishes 3 Heritage Villas to Make Room for Covid-19 Memorial Park

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Published on 02 December 2025
Written by Saigoneer. Photos by Alexandre Garel.

As part of a plan to build a dedicated space to commemorate victims of the COVID-19 pandemic, Saigon authorities recently demolished several heritage buildings from the 1950s, sparking concerns about the city’s loss of architectural heritage.

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What a Set of Art Homework From Long Xuyên Teaches Us About 1930s Vietnam

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Published on 01 December 2025
Written by Ann Ann. Images courtesy of Trọng Tính.

Much like their descendants today, schoolchildren of 1930s Vietnam also took art classes as part of their syllabus. In this rare collection of what was essentially our grandparents’ homework, we can surprisingly learn a lot about the daily life of Mekong Delta residents from nearly 100 years ago.

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Cát Tiên National Park Is the Perfect Cure for the Festering Wounds of Chronic Urban Life

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Published on 30 November 2025
Written by Paul Christiansen. Photos by Mike Tatarski.

What’s new? What’s trendy? What haven’t I explored? Such questions often dictate our travel plans, but sometimes, we’d be better off asking the opposite: What’s old? What’s impervious to being in style? Where have I been before and loved? 

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Hẻm Gems: In the Mood for Lẩu? A Ngưu Offers Hong Kong Vibes and Tasty Bites.

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Published on 28 November 2025
Written by Uyên Đỗ. Photos by Lê Thái Hoàng Nguyên.

I visit Tiệm Lẩu A Ngưu on a rare wintry Saturday evening in Saigon, the perfect occasion to fill one’s stomach with warm broth, noodles, and a host of other tasty accouterments.

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