Some simple delights can capture the flavor of an entire region.

The toddy palm tree flourishes throughout southern Vietnam, yet it’s in An Giang where it’s most deeply intertwined with daily life. The Khmer people of the Seven Mountains region aptly call it a divine gift. This member of the palm family can be found everywhere — dotting the landscape, casting shade over ancient temples, and playing a role in almost every facet of the community.

Its wood is used to craft boats and its fronds are turned into ropes and roofing, but most prized is the sweet sap harvested from its blossoms, skillfully transformed by artisans into the beloved palm sugar that has become a hallmark of An Giang’s cuisine. 

Toddy palm trees and palm sugar tablets. Photos via Mia.vn

With its distinct sweetness and fragrance, this traditional sugar is the key to many local delicacies, most famously bánh bò thốt nốt, a rustic pancake cherished across the region. Food enthusiasts typically recognize bánh bò thốt nốt in its traditional form: large, soft, spongy loaves or morsels with a generous, hearty portion. However, there is a lesser-known version, which stands out for its unique shape.

At husband-wife duo Thanh Nga and Kim Chi’s humble street cart, bánh bò thốt nốt is made directly on a pan, similar to how bánh xèo is prepared, rather than being steamed or baked. The batter is lightly spread across a hot aluminum pan over a charcoal stove, creating a thin layer. The pan is then covered with a clay lid, allowing the heat to distribute evenly until the pancake turns a golden yellow.

Nga, an An Giang native, migrated to Saigon with his family decades ago but carried with him the knowledge of making pan-cooked bánh bò, an art that was passed down from his mother. The recipe is simple, relying on basic ingredients like rice flour, eggs, and yeast, as well as the key components of palm sugar and coconut meat which are sent fresh from his hometown. The elderly couple gets up early every morning to prepare and ferment the batter, while manually grating ripe palm fruits and adding them to the mixture for a rich, nutty flavor.

While its exact origin is unknown, bánh bò thốt nốt chảo is believed to share similarities with bánh bò Ha Cô, a delicacy of the Chăm ethnic community in An Giang. Nga explained that thanks to the natural properties of palm sugar, no butter or oil is needed to cook the pastry. The batter forms a crisp outer layer while remaining soft and airy inside, retaining the classic honeycomb structure of a traditional bánh bò.

Each bite offers the creamy richness of coconut and the light sweetness of palmyra sugar, perfectly capturing the heart of An Giang’s natural offerings. Nga lovingly describes it: “It's subtle, it's delicate, and it always carries that familiar scent of palm sugar.”