in Snack Attack

Feeling Peckish at the End of the Work Day? Have a Bánh Chiên, or Two, or Four.

The rainy season is upon us in Saigon. Bouts of rain from ferocious to gentle have helped tempered the searing heat of summer. At one corner of the city, amid the moisture of freshly rained-on atmosphere is the bittersweet caramel scent of sugar syrup bubbling on the stove and of fried dough. It fills me with both nostalgia and a craving for golden, crispy bánh chiên hidden at every market and alley across Saigon.

Paul Christiansen

in Dishcovery

The Shrimps Are to Die for at This Riverside Nhậu Spot on the Outskirts of Saigon

“We eat so many shrimps, I got iodine poisoning,” rapper Pimp C famously proclaimed . But how many shrimps would that requ...

Khôi Phạm

in Dishcovery

Gỏi Khô Bò Lê Văn Tám Connects Generations of Saigoneers Over Papaya Salad

My favorite genre of Saigon food places is most definitely address-less street vendors. With no name, no fixed location, no menu, no contact information, before Google Maps and smartphones, whether you can satisfy your craving for their food purely depended on the strength of your memory (to find them again) and the level of luck the universe bestowed on you that day.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Wake up Early, We're Getting Hủ Tiếu Cá for Breakfast

When I used to live in Hanoi, I always knew that if an eatery only opens for half a day, the food is probably certified, at least by the locals, to be not only good, but excellent. There is something written in the local traditions that specific dishes should be served at particular times of the day.

in Snack Attack

Sugar, Ice, and Everything Nice: On the Mekong Delta's Love for Trà Đá Đường

The pitcher of miền Tây-style sweet tea is like a boat ride taking me away from the exhaustion of the city back to the memories of my hometown amongst the canals of the Mekong Delta.

Khôi Phạm

in Dishcovery

Kem Vi Bổn's Popsicles Anchor 70 Years of Saigon's Summer Memories

Saigoneers have always been blessed with a thriving ice cream scene, perhaps an inevitable perk of living in a city that’s rarely not scorching hot. Amid a thriving scene of inventive gelato and soft serve flavors, one frozen treat place has stood the test of time for nearly 70 years: Kem Vi Bổn.

Paul Christiansen

in Dishcovery

Bình Thạnh’s Best Budget-Friendly Off-Menu Bánh Mì by the Canal

I trust the philosophy that, to find the best places to eat, look for those crowded with locals. Such logic would lead you to Xôi Thị Nghè near the five-way intersection close to Chợ Thị Nghè in the former Bình Thạnh District.