in Food Culture

What Cooking Bún Chả for My Birthday Abroad Taught Me About Vietnameseness

“Hot summer night, mid-July, when you and I were forever wild,” Lana Del Rey croons every July 15 to celebrate my birthday. Those melodramatic words consistently evoke three specific elements in my mind: Heineken or Tiger beer cans on the floor; the sweet smoky smell of bún chả and nem enlaced with the rainy air of a darkening Saigon sky; and my friends and family under the LED-lit roof of an iCool karaoke room. Such pillars uphold what I consider the quintessential Vietnamese birthday experience.

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Where Fish Sauce and Soy Sauce Are Not Condiments, but Gelato Flavors

Living in central Saigon as a diehard fan of ice cream and all frozen sweets, I fondly remember the late 2010s–early 2020s as the age of abundance. Back in the day, across downtown, there was always a little something for ice cream fans of all preferences.

Govi Snell

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: At Phở Chay Như, a Banquet of Vegetarian Versions of Iconic Viet Dishes

A bowl full of noodles is one of the things that make me feel lucky to be alive, and alive in Saigon in particular.

in Food Culture

The Unifying Presence of Cái Mâm, Vietnam’s Ubiquitous, Familial Food Tray

An authentic Vietnamese meal cannot be complete without cái mâm. Mâm, a humble, circular food tray, has conducted generations of Vietnamese into a familial ritual for centuries. Once a mâm is set as the centerpiece, knees begin touching knees until the whole family sits cross-legged in a circle. One person pairs up chopsticks from the bundle and distributes them to fellow diners, while another scoops rice into bowls.

in Food Culture

Chợ Bà Hoa Transports Central Vietnam's Universe of Crispy, Funky, Sugary Treats to Saigon

My family lives in Saigon, a long distance from our hometown in Quảng Ngãi. We only visit a few times a year, but each time is a celebration of amazing food: bánh tráng nướng with sausages, bánh gói with spicy, garlicky nước chấm, crispy fried rolls, etc. Without fail, whenever I set food in the city again, I can’t help missing it dearly.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: An Alternative Cơm Tấm From Long Xuyên for Thịt Kho Trứng Fans

When it comes to cơm tấm, most people are familiar with cơm tấm Sài Gòn, featuring grilled pork ribs as the vedette topping. But since the dish’s creation, and as it gained popularity across the Mekong delta and southern Vietnam, another cơm tấm variant emerged alongside cơm tấm Sài Gòn. This version became so cherished by the locals that it was named after its birthplace — cơm tấm Long Xuyên.

Tâm Lê

in Ănthology

Christine Ha Writes New Food Stories From Her Parents' Culinary Heritage

“I was in a creative writing program for grad school at the time, and I thought, as an artist, going on MasterChef would give me something to write about.”

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: CCCP Anchors Fond Memories of Soviet Cuisine for Saigoneers, Young and Old

My earliest memories of breakfast are of Omachi beef-flavored instant noodles cooked with tomatoes and ground pork. On days where noodles sounded uninspiring, my mom would offer me the same plate as my dad: rye bread, butter, and Russian caviar. Eager to follow in his footsteps, I welcomed this addition to my breakfast menu, eventually replacing my beloved noodles.

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in Eat & Drink

[Video] Kinh Do Makes Mooncake Sexy In New TV Commercial

Love 'em or hate 'em, mooncakes are one of Vietnam's most visually attractive holiday treats. Featuring beautiful, intricate designs and packed with a range of both sweet and savory flavors, there's a...

in Food Culture

Cambodians Are Cooking Iron Fish To Combat Anemia

In Cambodia, where nutrient-rich food can be hard to come by, nearly half of the population suffers from iron deficiency. While this is an easily curable condition, many rural residents lack the acces...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Hủ Tiếu With A Side Of Attitude

You know those vendors who are so good at what they do that no matter how rotten they may be to their customers, people still turn up in droves? Fickle as the world of street food may be, at the ...

in Food Culture

Pork Guts as Donuts, a Delicious Breakfast

Vietnam is a country of culinary excellence. From phở to bánh xèo, bún riêu to bánh mì, local cuisine is a wealth of culinary creativity. And in a country where food is not always in abundance, Vietna...

in Food Culture

[Photos] What Citizens Of The World Eat In A Day

Most of us don't give a second thought to what we eat in a day. According to National Geographic, the average person consumes 2,870 calories from morning to night, but what you eat can change dramatic...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Bánh Bao Chiên @ Lý Chính Thắng Street Cart

Imagine it's around 4pm and a sprinkle of rain is just starting to fall outside. You sit in the office thinking about how wonderful it would be to have a small snack by your side.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Bún Thịt Nướng Bà Tám @ 299 Võ Văn Tần

Though this indoor hem gem loses a few points for the bland, sanitary, air-conditioned environment, it starts to make up for the snooze fest in design with excellent renditions of some of Saigon’s mos...

in Food Culture

[Photos] 15 Strange Snacks From Around Asia (But Mostly Japan)

Snack food, once ubiquitous with Western culture, has become a global phenomenon. When entering new markets, multinational corporations often introduce products tailored to the palates of the local po...

in Food Culture

[Video] Following A Hột Vịt Lộn Vendor Through The Streets Of Saigon

We often take for granted the immense diversity of foods found on the streets of Saigon, in addition to those that sell them. This short film profiles Vinh, a hột vịt lộn (fetal duck egg) vendor who h...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Mì Vịt Tiềm @ Mì Gia Tân Tòng Lợi

You can tell Mì Gia Tân Tòng Lợi has been around for a while by the faded hủ tiếu cart greeting you at the entrance. The eatery specializes in Chinese-style egg noodle soups and fried duck dishes...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Chocolate Coconut Smoothies @ Le Thi Rieng Smoothies

On a hot night of street food hunting, it was time for a pit stop, one that would not only satisfy our thirst, but also our sweet tooth.

in Food Culture

Da Lat Coffee Now Sold at Starbucks Stores Worldwide

Starbucks is now offering up bags of single-origin Da Lat coffee at its stores in 56 countries, the first time the company has stocked an Arabica coffee from Vietnam.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Meet Saigon’s "Other" Lunch Lady

Following years of international coverage from food bloggers and personalities such as Anthony Bourdain, Ms. Nguyen Thi Thanh, Saigon’s “lunch lady” has officially gone mainstream.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Legendary Coconut Milk @ Sữa Dừa 8 Tin

After a visit to Sữa Dừa 8 Tin, you’ll quickly find that not all coconut milk is created equal.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Bò Nhúng Dấm @ Anh Ba

At Anh Ba, it’s all about the beef. This eatery offers up four bovine dishes - lá lốp (beef wrapped in lolot leaves), mỡ chài (beef quasicrepinettes), nhúng dấm (vinegar based hot pot) and tái chanh (...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

[Video] The Story of a Saigon Chè Master

Saigoneer has teamed up with Only In Saigon to bring you stories from the city’s streets. Our first episode explores the tale of Son, a District 1 chè vendor who, for 25 years, has maintained thi...

in Food Culture

Will Saigon's Street Food Scene Last Another Generation?

According to a recent article in The Guardian, while Vietnamese street food is “imitated, fetishized, and replicated in cities all over the western world,” for many vendors, their profession is a mean...

in Food Culture

A Chat With The Organizers Of The Outcast’s Farmers Market

Saigon’s only farmers market is gearing up for its second installment at Saigon Outcast this Sunday. We sat down with the organizers (Saigon Outcast and La Holista) to see why they started the market,...

in Food Culture

[Video] How To Make: Bánh Nậm

When we order bánh thập cẩm at our Hue standby, Rất Huế (136/11 Lê Thánh Tôn), one of the highlights is bánh nậm, gelatinous rice with minced shrimp wrapped in a banana leaf.

in Food Culture

How To Make A Fresh Phở Noodle Salad In 15 Minutes

When most people talk about Vietnamese food, they immediately think about a delicious steaming bowl of phở.