Brian Letwin

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Kura Bar, a Veritable Treasure Trove of Rare Japanese Sakes Amid Saigon

Saigoneers are spoilt for choice when it comes to Japanese eateries in the city. Dozens, if not hundreds, of sushi, ramen and izakaya spots dot its districts. And if you're in the mood for something special, more obscure delicacies like tsukemen, Tokyo abura soba and Okinawa taco rice are readily available. Over the years, the epicenter of such eateries, especially those run by Japanese owners, has been slowly shifting from the upper stretches of Lê Thánh Tôn to Bình Thạnh District’s Phạm Viết Chánh neighborhood.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Go Back in Time to Chợ Cũ's Golden Days via Cô Chánh's Hủ Tiếu Mì

In the memory-scape of children growing up in the countryside like me, there always exists the familiar sight of old wet markets and the mornings we spent there, toddling behind our moms on the hunt for snacks, CDs, and lollipops. In the afternoons, I often tagged along with my grandma to buy meat and veggies, sneaking a toy or two inside her basket. Sometimes, if I was particularly sweet, she would allow us to have lunch there instead of at home.

Khôi Phạm

in Food Culture

How Cá Cắt Khúc Becomes My Personal Touchstone of Vietnamese Cuisine

It was 13 years ago when Christine Ha auditioned for and eventually won the third season of MasterChef US. Then a grad student from Texas, Christine’s victory was a watershed moment in the history of reality TV in the US and even globally. She’s visually impaired, a daughter of Vietnamese immigrants, and has a palate that even established chefs would envy. Back then, everything about Christine’s MasterChef run left an indelible mark on me, a budding food enthusiast from Vietnam, but as I grew older and embarked on my own cooking journey, there’s something about her audition that has always tugged on my heartstrings.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: A Night of Love, Poetry, and the Pursuit of the Sublime at Emme Bar

“So what makes Emme House different?” the head bartender Dũng asked during our earlier conversation with Trực, the bar’s owner. “Emme House is not a bar,” he explained. I further inquired then about the layers of storytelling embedded into every detail, to which he replied with a smile, “I’ll tell you the whole story.”

in Dishcovery

Fried Floating Rice with Dried Cá Chốt and Lotus Tells a Complete Vietnamese Narrative

Chef Peter Cường Franklin shared a powerful narrative to introduce the dish he prepared for Saigoneer. Rice symbolizes the nation’s most important carbohydrate and its agrarian culture; cá chốt represents the ubiquity of local seafood and vital waterways; and lotus provides a metaphor for Vietnamese resilience because it grows in the mud and produces a beautiful, useful flower. 

Uyên Đỗ

in Dishcovery

A Light Bánh Cuốn Quảng Đông to Break Your Fast the Chợ Lớn Way

Meeting up for a Chinese-style breakfast often means gathering around stacked baskets of dim sum or diving into hearty bowls of wonton noodles. But if you're looking for something lighter, a serving of cheung fun might offer the perfect balance.

Khôi Phạm

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Miến Lươn Is a Classic Hanoian Breakfast for Cold Rainy Days

I am Hanoi’s hungriest tourist; and the capital welcomes me into its flavorsome, umami-rich warmth with open arms.

in Dishcovery

Cua Cà Mau Consommé Evokes Nostalgic Summer Beach Holidays

Seafood reminds chef Nghiêm Minh Đức of childhood vacations to northern beaches with his family. But since moving to Saigon, he has been exposed to southern products including cua Cà Mau’s which inspire him to experiment with new dishes.

Back Eat & Drink

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Heavenly Hủ Tiếu on Co Giang

Many count Co Giang Street among their favorite Saigon street food corridors. Featuring a long stretch of stalls, which serve everything from chè and bún riêu to magical bowls of Chinese-style hủ tiếu...

in Eat & Drink

[Photos] Yangon's Must-Have Street Snacks

Like any major city, Yangon borrows from Myanmar's many ethnic groups, not to mention its neighbors, to create a mosaic of the country's cuisine.

in Food Culture

[Video] Vietnamese Restaurant in US Challenges Customers to Consume 6-Kilo Bowl of Phở

Earlier this month, televisions across the United States tuned in to the Super Bowl, hoping to take part in the country's most celebrated American football match-up, judge the year's greatest TV comme...

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: District 1's Cơm Trưa Food Court

If you've ever driven along Ton Duc Thang during rush hour, there's a strong chance you've almost run over a street food tout just north of the Le Thanh Ton-Nguyen Huu Canh intersection. While I have,...

in Eat & Drink

[Photos/Video] As Tet Approaches, Vietnam's Braised Fish Village Goes Online

In the lead-up to Vietnam's new year celebration, it is time to remember that which is most important during the holiday season: food.

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Cơm Tấm, Breakfast of Champions

There are three kinds of people in this world: early birds, night owls and the perpetually tired. Try as I might to adapt, I am the third.

in Eat & Drink

Hanoi's Communist Cafe Chain Comes to Saigon

Set foot inside the newly opened southern branch of Cong Caphe and you'll instantly feel like a giant. The endless array of tchotchke lining its concrete walls and wooden shelves – transistor radios, ...

in Eat & Drink

Da Nang's Taiwanese Taco Shop Is out of This World

It's fair to be skeptical of Mexican food in a country like Vietnam. Despite the best efforts of chefs across the country, tacos in Southeast Asia can often wind up being oceans away – both literally ...

in Eat & Drink

[Photos] Here Are 12 of Thailand's Tastiest Noodle Soups

We all know about mì, phở, bún, bánh canh, hủ tiếu, miến, cao lâu and a plethora of other Vietnamese noodles, but Thailand is equally famous for its scores of noodle-based dishes.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Saigon's 100-Year-Old Vegetarian Quán

A mellow hideaway amidst the hastening traffic near Ben Thanh Market, Tin Nghia vegetarian restaurant is a time capsule.

in Food Culture

Inside Hong Kong's Futuristic McDonald's

Imagine if Kylo Ren, in a fit of hanger, opened a burger joint. There would definitely be some stainless steel in there, some dim lighting and perhaps a salad bar.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Dropping the Flavor Bomb With Vietnamese Comfort Food

Given that most of the spots that show up in our Hẻm Gems series are full-on meals, we decided it was time to explore the vast world of small, snack-like Vietnamese dishes. There are plenty of great ...

in Food Culture

Meet South Korea's Free-Diving Grannies

By now, you've likely heard of South Korea's young and (mostly) attractive foodporn stars. Mukbang is an internet sensation these days, as are a plethora of other odd Korean cultural phenomena.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Bun Thit Nuong in a Street Foodie's Paradise

For those who don't know, Co Giang is a rugged street located in the middle of District 1's well-groomed downtown neighborhood. Despite its extremely central location, the short, narrow road manages t...

in Eat & Drink

Starbucks' Da Lat Coffee Now Available in Vietnam

As of January 4, Starbucks stores in Vietnam now sell Da Lat coffee.

in Food Culture

How Singapore's 'Hawkerpreneurs' Are Saving Street Food

Singapore, Southeast Asia's bastion of modernization, frequently earns a place among the most livable cities in the world. But thanks to its squeaky clean streets and highly efficient public tran...

in Food Culture

[Video] Americans Try Hột Vịt Lộn for the First Time

When it comes to food, everything is relative: what's shocking and scandalous in one country is completely normal in another.

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Chị Hiền's Cơm Sườn and the Single Greatest Fish Sauce of All Time

As an accomplished eater and failed cook, I spend a lot of time scouting street food venues.

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Check out the New Street Food Mecca Behind Ben Thanh Market

Barely more than a week old, Ben Thanh's brand-new street food market is already turning heads with its souped-up version of the standard roadside dining experience.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Saigoneer's 5 Best Hẻm Gems of 2015

From legendary chicken and rice to finger-licking fried buns to an unbeatable hủ tiếu served with a side of sass, Saigoneer revisits our favorite street eats from 2015. Chúc ăn ngon miệng!