in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Ghé Coffee Tucks Art, Fragrant Coffee Into a Quiet D1 Crevice

Delivering premium origin coffee and fine art from artists across Vietnam in a tiny room that dates back to French colonial times, smack dab in the middle of District 1, The Ghé Coffee balances the finer things in life and the comfortably mundane.

Paul Christiansen

in Food Culture

Into the Beguiling Backyard Rice Wine Distilleries of Long An

The highway eases into sand and gravel the way history descends into myth and legend when traveling towards Long An. A mere 27 kilometers outside of Saigon, the province feels a world away: the difference between a cocktail made with 18-year-old scotch, jackfruit-infused rum, seven types of bitters and brandy-soaked organic cherries and a plastic water bottle of homemade rượu nếp. The latter was the reason we were going there: for information, interviews and anecdotes to complete Saigoneer’s two-part investigation of the history of rice wine.

in Snack Attack

From a Blend of Cultures, Phá Lấu Became a Beloved Saigon Street Snack

When the word phá lấu is mentioned, two genres of dishes will appear in the mind of Vietnamese. One is a small bowl of orange broth that sings of coconut milk, another is slices of caramelized offal awash in a translucent shade of brown. Both these forms of preparations speak volumes about the growth of local street food through episodes of history.

in Snack Attack

Gỏi Đu Đủ Reflects the Mekong Region's Culinary and Cultural Wisdoms

As the cicadas begin to sing in the tamarind canopies along Pasteur Street after the first monsoon rain, vivid scenes from my formative years flash by in my mind. My cheeks became flushed and my eyes teary, but not from the harsh sun and wind, nor the frustration of losing multiple marble games; it was the sight, or rather, the scent of a papaya salad enveloped in Cô Ri pungent anchovy sauce.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: In D5, a Family Durian Xôi Xiêm Recipe Inspired by Cambodia

At first glance, xôi xiêm sầu riêng — or sticky rice with egg custard and durian — may appear plain-looking, but apart from being a tasty sweet treat, this simple dish also holds stories of life during Vietnam’s post-war period.

in Snack Attack

A Pilgrimage to Sơn La, Vietnam's National Mận Capital, as a Devoted Fan

There’s a kind of sweet, sour, and slightly tannic fruit that never fails to make our mouths water every summer.

Paul Christiansen

in Food Culture

Banana Is a Paragon of Neutrality. I Propose Using It as a Metric to Rank All Fruits.

Line up all the world’s fruits, best to worst, taking into account every rateable aspect imaginable including taste, appearance, price, reliability and seasonality — the banana rests at the exact middle. So I've personally used it as the ideal threshold to rank every fruit I've ever eaten.

Back Eat & Drink

in Food Culture

Chinese Restaurants Fire Incompetent Robot Staff

While human waitstaff are sometimes a disappointment – they forget your order, they punch in late, they expect a tip – three restaurants in China are finding out that our machine friends aren't necess...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: A Perfect Saigon Breakfast

Most days, I roll out of bed 15 minutes after my alarm has stopped ringing, stumble downstairs, brush my teeth and leave the house just in time to grab my morning dose of caffeine before heading to th...

in Food Culture

Cup Noodle to Release 'Luxury' Shark Fin, Softshell Turtle Flavors in Japan

For only the classiest of junk food consumers, Cup Noodle is rolling out a “premium” line of instant noodles.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: On Eating (Chicken) Ass

Let’s play a game. I tell you a word and you tell me the first thing that comes to mind. Here goes: chicken.

Brian Letwin

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

[Video] Hẻm Gems: D4’s Supreme Street Sushi

There’s no shortage of solid international fare in Saigon. From Italian to Japanese, Indian to Korean, local diners are well covered. However, since most options in this category are relegated to indo...

in Food Culture

The Shitty Reality Behind Civet-Poop Coffee

We love a good cup of civet-poop coffee just as much as the next person, but maybe it's time to let go.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

[Video] Hẻm Gems: D1's Not-So-Secret Snail-Grilling Operation

At first glance, Oc Dao looks like a factory. A giant, secret snail-grilling operation tucked behind several twists and turns along a narrow downtown alley, where plates of fresh crustaceans are churn...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

[Video] Hẻm Gems: The Merits of Chè Dim Sum

If we're being real, I would not break an appointment for chè.

in Food Culture

Pizza Huts in China Now Serving Durian Pizza

China has a unique interpretation of western fast food. From the dry pork and seaweed donut at a Chinese Dunkin Donuts to a pizza featuring – wait for it – shrimp tempura, wasabi mayonnaise, squi...

in Eat & Drink

This Vietnamese-Australian Is Raking in $19m a Year Serving Vietnamese Food

When Vietnamese-Australian Bao Hoang opened the very first branch of Rolld, a store specializing in street food-inspired Vietnamese cuisine, the former physiotherapist had high hopes for his newest bu...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

[Video] Hẻm Gems: The Lazy Man's Bánh Xèo

I have a confession to make: my spring roll game is embarrassing.

in Food Culture

Marou Chocolatiers Get a New York Times Shout-Out

If you've ever splurged on a good bar of chocolate in this city, chances are you've heard of Marou. The independent Saigon-based chocolatier is responsible for a series of hand-picked, single-origin a...

in Food Culture

Phở Tacos: When Vietnamese and Latin Food Meet

When he moved from Vietnam to the United States as a child, Kenneth Nguyen and his family settled in Los Angeles' Koreatown, a rough-and-tumble neighborhood in which he grew up around a variety of dif...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Heavenly Hủ Tiếu on Co Giang

Many count Co Giang Street among their favorite Saigon street food corridors. Featuring a long stretch of stalls, which serve everything from chè and bún riêu to magical bowls of Chinese-style hủ tiếu...

in Eat & Drink

[Photos] Yangon's Must-Have Street Snacks

Like any major city, Yangon borrows from Myanmar's many ethnic groups, not to mention its neighbors, to create a mosaic of the country's cuisine.

in Food Culture

[Video] Vietnamese Restaurant in US Challenges Customers to Consume 6-Kilo Bowl of Phở

Earlier this month, televisions across the United States tuned in to the Super Bowl, hoping to take part in the country's most celebrated American football match-up, judge the year's greatest TV comme...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: District 1's Cơm Trưa Food Court

If you've ever driven along Ton Duc Thang during rush hour, there's a strong chance you've almost run over a street food tout just north of the Le Thanh Ton-Nguyen Huu Canh intersection. While I have,...

in Eat & Drink

[Photos/Video] As Tet Approaches, Vietnam's Braised Fish Village Goes Online

In the lead-up to Vietnam's new year celebration, it is time to remember that which is most important during the holiday season: food.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Cơm Tấm, Breakfast of Champions

There are three kinds of people in this world: early birds, night owls and the perpetually tired. Try as I might to adapt, I am the third.

in Eat & Drink

Hanoi's Communist Cafe Chain Comes to Saigon

Set foot inside the newly opened southern branch of Cong Caphe and you'll instantly feel like a giant. The endless array of tchotchke lining its concrete walls and wooden shelves – transistor radios, ...