Hẻm Gems: Om Momo Brings Stories, Tasty Dumplings From Tibet to Saigon
Though I’ve known about momos for quite some time, it was only recently when I first visited Om Momo — a cozy little Tibetan restaurant tucked deep inside a dark nook in Thảo Điền — that I finally tried momos. Inside, one finds a world with a life of its own: at its center stands a mysterious figure, thinly veiled by a cylindrical sheath of turquoise; hung on the walls are vibrantly colored photographs and artworks; and between them sit tables of diners who gaze and converse around salt-rock lamps that warmly illuminate the room.
Uyên Đỗ in Snack Attack
Cà Rem Cây, Kem Chuối and the Frozen Tickets to Our Childhood
Sometimes, when I hear the distant sound of a tinkling bell, fond memories of summer days from my wonder years come flooding back to me.
Khôi Phạm in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: Indonesia's Ayam Penyet Is a Smashing Celebration of Spices
The most straightforward definition by which to explain ayam penyet to the Vietnamese layperson is perhaps “cơm gà Indo.” It’s technically not wrong: the dish has rice and chicken, and originates from Indonesia. But once you've actually sunk your teeth into this special fried chicken, the translation seems unfairly reductive because ayam penyet is so much better than the sum of its parts.
Ngõ Nooks: At Bún Bò Huế Thu Thùy, a Broth That Bridges Hanoi Taste and Huế Flair
In only three places have I enjoyed truly sumptuous bowls of bún bò giò heo: in its hometown of Huế, in Hội An and at Bún Bò Huế Thu Thùy in Hanoi.
Hẻm Gems: Go Back in Time to Chợ Cũ's Golden Days via Cô Chánh's Hủ Tiếu Mì
In the memory-scape of children growing up in the countryside like me, there always exists the familiar sight of old wet markets and the mornings we spent there, toddling behind our moms on the hunt for snacks, CDs, and lollipops. In the afternoons, I often tagged along with my grandma to buy meat and veggies, sneaking a toy or two inside her basket. Sometimes, if I was particularly sweet, she would allow us to have lunch there instead of at home.
How Soy Milk Symbolizes an Imagined Vietnam of My Childhood in France
I still remember vividly the anticipation running through my veins, when I saw a waiter bringing me a glass of sữa đậu nành, every time my family took me to one of the many Vietnamese restaurants of the 13th arrondissement of Paris, the city’s renowned Chinatown. It was a neighborhood I was bound to get dragged to as a French kid with a Vietnamese parent, whether I wanted to or not. For me, this glass represented the quintessence of typical Vietnamese drinks during a good meal: one of the rare glimpses into the daily customs of my ancestors’ culture.
Khôi Phạm in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: At Sara Ethiopian Restaurant, a Chicken Stew for the Soul
Before the existence of Sara Ethiopian Restaurant in Saigon, my knowledge about the African country could fit squarely in a child’s palm: its capital, Addis Ababa; the tragic Ethiopian Airlines crash in March; and its national dish, injera.
An Homage to Mỳ Quảng and Its Branching Family Tree Across Vietnam
Mỳ Quảng’s reputation has spread across Vietnam and even abroad, yet few are well-informed about its origin story and the land it hailed from.
Thi Nguyen in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: Refreshing Đá Me and a Touch of Pre-1975 Tunes at 81 Cafe
Given the city’s hot weather, cold drinks are Saigon's very own specialty. While cà phê sữa đá and trà đá are timeless staples, in recent years we have also witnessed the rise of milk tea shops in alm...
[Video] Japanese Competitive Eater Visits Vietnam, Eats 15 Bánh Xèo in One Sitting
Yuka Kinoshita loves a good food challenge.
Kit Humphrey in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks
Ngõ Nooks: Tender Strips of Garlic-Infused Beef at Pho Thin
In the midst of a Hanoian winter, all you want is warmth. The houses aren't built for the cold, and on a bike at night, the chill seeps right into you. At lunch or after work, there's nothing better t...
[Video] BuzzFeed Employees Try Vietnamese Noodles, Choke, Cry, Make Disgusting Phở Puns
Another day, another BuzzFeed-branded “Americans Try…” video.
Kit Humphrey in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks
Ngõ Nooks: Refreshing Cocktails at Hanoi’s Best Hole-in-the-Wall
Bars in Hanoi don’t come much smaller than Dot. Its width is no more than the span of my arms, but what it lacks in size it more than makes up for in value and substance. You’d barely notice the place...
Kit Humphrey in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks
Ngõ Nooks: Vegan Buffet, Nourishment That Makes You Feel Good
Anyone who’s lived in Vietnam for any reasonable length of time will have heard of cơm bình dân – rice buffets offering an abundance of meat and vegetables during lunch hours. In recent years, however...
Kit Humphrey in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks
Ngõ Nooks: Trainspotting and Nostalgia at The Railway Hanoi
The stretch of railway between Tran Phu Street and Dien Bien Phu Street is quickly becoming one of the hippest spots in Hanoi. In the last couple of years, a social enterprise named Zo Project, a fash...
Kit Humphrey in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks
Ngõ Nooks: Yen Phu's Banh Xeo Spot Is Legit
Any street food restaurant you regularly pass on your commute, or that lies within the local area where you live, is likely to receive your patronage more often than most. Minh Banh Xeo is no exceptio...
Hẻm Gems: Mutahiro's Masterful Chicken Ramen
Ramen is often the preferred choice of Japanese comfort food in Southeast Asia, yet finding an impressive offering of the dish in Saigon has proven to be a challenge. The appearance of Mutahiro i...
Paul Christiansen in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: Pass the Bánh Ướt on the Left-Hand Side
Thanks to Banh Uot Banh Me, you can finally put to use those rolling skills you honed back in your university days...rolling gỏi cuốn, obviously (wink).
One Saigon Restaurant’s Take on Japanese Flower Viewing Parties
“What a strange thing! / to be alive / beneath cherry blossoms.” This famous haiku by Issa, one of Japan’s most renowned poets, encapsulates the splendor of Hanami - the annual festival dedicated to p...
Kit Humphrey in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks
Ngõ Nooks: Cuoi Ngo – One of Hanoi’s Most Hidden Cafés
If you’ve managed to find Cafe Cuoi Ngo, then you deserve to see it. The place feels like a well-kept secret, but it’s so hard to find that I don’t think publishing this article will overburden the sp...
Michael Tatarski in Food Culture
From Texas to Saigon: Viet-Cajun Cuisine's Journey Around the World
Given the size of the overseas Vietnamese diaspora, it comes as little surprise that the community has had a huge influence on the cuisines of countries around the world.
Thi Nguyen in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: The Unapologetic Simplicity of Ben Thanh's Bun Rieu Ganh
Working in the middle of a market that houses a plethora of food collectives can be a double-edged sword. It's convenient when you’re pressed for time, but after a while, you tend to get lazy and just...
Khoi Pham in Food Culture
A Brief History of Hanoi's Iconic Bia Hơi Glass
Hanoi’s iconic bia hơi glass is more than meets the eye.
Hanoi's Bun Cha Huong Lien Enshrines Obama's Table, Meal Set in Glass Display
A part of Obama’s visit to Vietnam is now forever enshrined – literally – in a glass display in Hanoi.
Khôi Phạm in Snack Attack
The Yin and Yang of Saigon Street Desserts: Black Sesame Soup and Bean Curd
In the back of my mind lives a chorus of street calls: the staccato pauses in a recorded advertisement "bánh mì Sài Gòn, một ngàn một ổ" (hot Saigon bánh mì, only thousand [dong] per loaf), the clink-...
[Video] Learn How to Make Bánh Chưng in Hanoi's Storied Tranh Khuc Village
It’s hard to find a Vietnamese who isn’t familiar with the a story behind the country’s sticky rice cakes: bánh chưng and bánh giày. After all, the legend of these ceremonial fares is intertwined with...
Michael Tatarski in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: A No-Name Chợ Cũ Food Collective to Satisfy All Your Snack Cravings
Some street eateries in Saigon are so good they don't need a name.
Brian Letwin in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: Chu Se's 65 Years of Hủ Tiếu Mì by the Calmette Bridge
Saigon is home to a number of street food eateries that span generations, from a 100-year old vegetarian joint to a 70-year-old hủ tiếu Mỹ Tho restaurant right in the heart of District 1.
