in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Izakaya Where Happiness Is Wrapped in Pork Belly and Grilled

It took a few visits before I noticed that the music at Sakaba Sasuke was always the same.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: On Hàng Bài, Golden Bún Cá Thái Bình in a Hole in the Wall

When a friend of mine returned home after living abroad last year, he longed for a bowl of bún cá. I suggested the classic Hanoi dish, with satisfyingly oily deep-fried fish, but he had other ideas — a fresh feast originally from Thai Binh, located almost 100 kilometers from the capital.

in Eat & Drink

From Fine Dining to Comfort Food: Why Chef Thierry Mounon Followed up La Villa with La Fontaine

“Beyond awards or recognition, a restaurant is about welcoming people, creating memories and bringing joy around a table,” explains Chef Thierry Mounon of his decision to expand from French fine dining into comfort food.

in Food Culture

What Cooking Bún Chả for My Birthday Abroad Taught Me About Vietnameseness

“Hot summer night, mid-July, when you and I were forever wild,” Lana Del Rey croons every July 15 to celebrate my birthday. Those melodramatic words consistently evoke three specific elements in my mind: Heineken or Tiger beer cans on the floor; the sweet smoky smell of bún chả and nem enlaced with the rainy air of a darkening Saigon sky; and my friends and family under the LED-lit roof of an iCool karaoke room. Such pillars uphold what I consider the quintessential Vietnamese birthday experience.

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Where Fish Sauce and Soy Sauce Are Not Condiments, but Gelato Flavors

Living in central Saigon as a diehard fan of ice cream and all frozen sweets, I fondly remember the late 2010s–early 2020s as the age of abundance. Back in the day, across downtown, there was always a little something for ice cream fans of all preferences.

Govi Snell

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: At Phở Chay Như, a Banquet of Vegetarian Versions of Iconic Viet Dishes

A bowl full of noodles is one of the things that make me feel lucky to be alive, and alive in Saigon in particular.

in Food Culture

The Unifying Presence of Cái Mâm, Vietnam’s Ubiquitous, Familial Food Tray

An authentic Vietnamese meal cannot be complete without cái mâm. Mâm, a humble, circular food tray, has conducted generations of Vietnamese into a familial ritual for centuries. Once a mâm is set as the centerpiece, knees begin touching knees until the whole family sits cross-legged in a circle. One person pairs up chopsticks from the bundle and distributes them to fellow diners, while another scoops rice into bowls.

in Food Culture

Chợ Bà Hoa Transports Central Vietnam's Universe of Crispy, Funky, Sugary Treats to Saigon

My family lives in Saigon, a long distance from our hometown in Quảng Ngãi. We only visit a few times a year, but each time is a celebration of amazing food: bánh tráng nướng with sausages, bánh gói with spicy, garlicky nước chấm, crispy fried rolls, etc. Without fail, whenever I set food in the city again, I can’t help missing it dearly.

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Michael Tatarski

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Set an Alarm, We're Waking up Early for Dim Sum in D11

According to historical legend, dim sum was created along the ancient Silk Road as a snack for weary travelers to enjoy with their tea while resting. On this day, I felt like I had traversed that fabl...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Inside Le Thanh Ton's Japan Town Lives Saigon's Best Katsu

Inside the unofficial Japanese quarter of Saigon lies scrumptious katsu and oyakodon to suit all palates. For beginners like myself at one point in time, the existence of Fujiro can swing open many ne...

Kit Humphrey

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Old Hanoi Aesthetics and Durian Milk-Tea at Cafe Minh

Whether a grey-eyed morning or a long-tailed dusk, it makes little difference in Café Minh. The windows, opaque from a history of cigarettes and road dust, barely let in any light. The groan of motorb...

Khoi Pham

in Food Culture

Saigon's Oldest Pre-Doi Moi Relic, Hai Con Tôm Noodles, Is a Living Fossil

You wake up in Saigon in the 1980s in your apartment overlooking the Saigon River. While yawning, you put a dollop of Da Lan toothpaste on a brush. Using a bar of Co Ba soap, you wash yourself up and ...

in Food Culture

[Video] This Thai Duo Make the Weirdest, Most Awkward Food Review Videos. We Love Them.

Thai advertisements are in a completely different league compared to the rest of ours.

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: An Authentic Hai Phong Bánh Đa Cua Right in the Heart of D1

I am a fervent champion of all things noodles.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Piquant Broth and Tangy Snails at Bun Oc Co Hue

There’s nothing fancy about Bun Oc Co Hue. You’ll find makeshift awnings and a leaning mahogany tree outside, and tattered walls and faded floral tiles within. The shop itself is 28 years old, the sam...

in Eat & Drink

New Lunch Menu at East West Spans from Steak French Fry Burritos to Palm Heart Salads, Linking Authentic East and West Cuisines

A grin creeps across the face of East West Brewing Co.’s executive chef Matt Venzke when he recalls the first time he ever had Vietnamese food.

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Pandan and Durian Gelato for a Sizzling Summer Day in Saigon

My earliest memory of ice cream in Saigon involves savoring Kem Bach Dang’s renowned kem trái dừa: scoops of coconut ice cream in a coconut husk topped with an assortment of fresh and jammed fruits.

in Food Culture

Shrimp Paste and Fish Sauce: A Brief Primer on Vietnam's Dipping History

It is a well-known fact among Vietnamese that their home country has a rich portfolio of fermented food, from mắm chua (pickled shrimp) to mắm tôm (shrimp paste). Here is a comprehensive look into not...

in Food Culture

American Chef Anthony Bourdain, Who Introduced Bún Chả to Obama, Passes Away at 61

Anthony Bourdain, the chef, writer and travel show host, has passed away at 61.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: In Tan Binh, VND4,000 Is All You Need for Good Bia Hơi

Bia hơi for the people.

in Food Culture

New Cookbook 'Vegetarian Vietnam' Boldy Reinvents Traditional Classics

In his new cookbook Vegetarian Vietnam, Canadian chef Cameron Stauch boldly reinterprets traditional Vietnamese dishes while retaining their authenticity.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Craft Beer and Deep Conversation in a Cargo Ship Container

From Pasteur Street to Standing Bar, the capital hides a plethora of hop spots, but its newest entrant might be the most unique.

in Food Culture

A Street Food History: The Curious Encounters Behind How Ramen Got Its Name

The origin of the Japanese staple as well as how the dish got its name are still up for debate. 

in Eat & Drink

Tê Tê Electrifies Saigon with New IPA

Since its debut less than two years ago, Tê Tê Brewing’s namesake Belgian White Ale has become a Saigoneer favorite thanks to its bright, refreshing taste perfectly suited to Saigon’s perpetual summer...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: The Bánh Cuốn That’s Worth a Year of Waiting

Mrs. An’s bánh cuốn won the heart of world-renowned chef Bobby Chinn, kept lines of die-hard fans waiting outside and left a number of hearts broken when it disappeared for almost a year.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Cozy Autumn Flavors at Tokyo Moon, Japan Town's Korean Cafe

Tokyo Moon's presence is an odd-but-welcoming representation of South Korean hospitality in the heart of Le Thanh Ton's "Japan Town" with its mysterious herbal tonic, sweet potato pastry and pumpkin c...

in Food Culture

After Milk Tea-Flavored Water, Japan Now Has Transparent Coffee Because Why Not

So this is why scientists have been too busy to cure cancer, send a human to Mars or successfully bring Tasmanian tigers back from extinction?

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: At Things Café, Humans, Cats and Nat King Cole Coexist in a Harmonious Ecosystem

I admit that it’s taken me great pains to write this week’s Hẻm Gem.