in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: At Mão A Chai, Masala Chai and Thái Nguyên Tea for the Soul

I used to be an international student living in Minnesota, where winter comes early and overstays its welcome. In those long months of snow and silence, I relied heavily on coffee, my go-to companion during late-night study sessions and early morning lectures. This changed one day when my host mom introduced me to something unexpected: Indian chai.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: A Humble Bún Riêu That Reminds a Child of the Mekong of Home

As a little boy, there were nights when I would burst into tears upon waking up suddenly and not seeing mom around, because I missed her and needed her. One night, I even crawled under the bed and threw a tantrum, demanding her to be by my side immediately. My dad and brother told me that she was off selling bún riêu and would be back later. In the mind of a four-year-old, it didn’t matter what kind of noodles and where she was selling them, he only cared about when she would return. At the time, I don’t recall ever trying her bún riêu.

Paul Christiansen

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: From Music to Mise en Place, A Thăng Is an Eatery That Friendship Built

“We want to be artists; we want to be free. Now we are free,” says Nguyễn Hoàng Anh, co-founder of A Thăng Eatery.

Uyên Đỗ

in Food Culture

No Family Trip Is Complete Without Banter, Bolero and Bánh Mì Chả Lụa

Every time my extended family took a trip, it looked more like a mass exodus than a holiday — bags teetering, arms overstuffed, and enough supplies to survive a small apocalypse.

Paul Christiansen

in Dishcovery

Bored of Mundance Date Spots? Try Tân Sơn Nhất's Romantic Star Cafe.

I know a little place. 

in Food Culture

The 50 Shades of Cháo on the Palette of Vietnam's Regional Cuisines

Cháo, or congee in English, is a diverse genre of Vietnamese dishes in both executions and flavor profiles — from humble versions like pandan congee, red bean congee to more substantial and complex meals like offal congee, chicken congee and catfish congee. Each dish is a different variation, but they all share a reputation for being nourishing and a richness of regional culinary characteristics.

Brian Letwin

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Kura Bar, a Veritable Treasure Trove of Rare Japanese Sakes Amid Saigon

Saigoneers are spoilt for choice when it comes to Japanese eateries in the city. Dozens, if not hundreds, of sushi, ramen and izakaya spots dot its districts. And if you're in the mood for something special, more obscure delicacies like tsukemen, Tokyo abura soba and Okinawa taco rice are readily available. Over the years, the epicenter of such eateries, especially those run by Japanese owners, has been slowly shifting from the upper stretches of Lê Thánh Tôn to Bình Thạnh District’s Phạm Viết Chánh neighborhood.

Back Eat & Drink

Chris Humphrey

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Tender Strips of Garlic-Infused Beef at Pho Thin

In the midst of a Hanoian winter, all you want is warmth. The houses aren't built for the cold, and on a bike at night, the chill seeps right into you. At lunch or after work, there's nothing better t...

in Food Culture

[Video] BuzzFeed Employees Try Vietnamese Noodles, Choke, Cry, Make Disgusting Phở Puns

Another day, another BuzzFeed-branded “Americans Try…” video.

Chris Humphrey

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Refreshing Cocktails at Hanoi’s Best Hole-in-the-Wall

Bars in Hanoi don’t come much smaller than Dot. Its width is no more than the span of my arms, but what it lacks in size it more than makes up for in value and substance. You’d barely notice the place...

Chris Humphrey

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Vegan Buffet, Nourishment That Makes You Feel Good

Anyone who’s lived in Vietnam for any reasonable length of time will have heard of cơm bình dân – rice buffets offering an abundance of meat and vegetables during lunch hours. In recent years, however...

Chris Humphrey

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Trainspotting and Nostalgia at The Railway Hanoi

The stretch of railway between Tran Phu Street and Dien Bien Phu Street is quickly becoming one of the hippest spots in Hanoi. In the last couple of years, a social enterprise named Zo Project, a fash...

Chris Humphrey

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Yen Phu's Banh Xeo Spot Is Legit

Any street food restaurant you regularly pass on your commute, or that lies within the local area where you live, is likely to receive your patronage more often than most. Minh Banh Xeo is no exceptio...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Mutahiro's Masterful Chicken Ramen

Ramen is often the preferred choice of Japanese comfort food in Southeast Asia, yet finding an impressive offering of the dish in Saigon has proven to be a challenge. The appearance of Mutahiro i...

Paul Christiansen

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Pass the Bánh Ướt on the Left-Hand Side

Thanks to Banh Uot Banh Me, you can finally put to use those rolling skills you honed back in your university days...rolling gỏi cuốn, obviously (wink).

Chris Humphrey

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Cuoi Ngo – One of Hanoi’s Most Hidden Cafés

If you’ve managed to find Cafe Cuoi Ngo, then you deserve to see it. The place feels like a well-kept secret, but it’s so hard to find that I don’t think publishing this article will overburden the sp...

Michael Tatarski

in Food Culture

From Texas to Saigon: Viet-Cajun Cuisine's Journey Around the World

Given the size of the overseas Vietnamese diaspora, it comes as little surprise that the community has had a huge influence on the cuisines of countries around the world.

Thi Nguyen

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Unapologetic Simplicity of Ben Thanh's Bun Rieu Ganh

Working in the middle of a market that houses a plethora of food collectives can be a double-edged sword. It's convenient when you’re pressed for time, but after a while, you tend to get lazy and just...

Khoi Pham

in Food Culture

A Brief History of Hanoi's Iconic Bia Hơi Glass

Hanoi’s iconic bia hơi glass is more than meets the eye.

in Food Culture

Hanoi's Bun Cha Huong Lien Enshrines Obama's Table, Meal Set in Glass Display

A part of Obama’s visit to Vietnam is now forever enshrined – literally – in a glass display in Hanoi.

Khôi Phạm

in Snack Attack

The Yin and Yang of Saigon Street Desserts: Black Sesame Soup and Bean Curd

In the back of my mind lives a chorus of street calls: the staccato pauses in a recorded advertisement "bánh mì Sài Gòn, một ngàn một ổ" (hot Saigon bánh mì, only thousand [dong] per loaf), the clink-...

in Food Culture

[Video] Learn How to Make Bánh Chưng in Hanoi's Storied Tranh Khuc Village

It’s hard to find a Vietnamese who isn’t familiar with the a story behind the country’s sticky rice cakes: bánh chưng and bánh giày. After all, the legend of these ceremonial fares is intertwined with...

Michael Tatarski

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: A No-Name Chợ Cũ Food Collective to Satisfy All Your Snack Cravings

Some street eateries in Saigon are so good they don't need a name.

Brian Letwin

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Chu Se's 65 Years of Hủ Tiếu Mì by the Calmette Bridge

Saigon is home to a number of street food eateries that span generations, from a 100-year old vegetarian joint to a 70-year-old hủ tiếu Mỹ Tho restaurant right in the heart of District 1.

in Food Culture

Pandan, Southeast Asia's Humble Leaf Set to Take the World by Storm

Pandan, an aromatic plant native to Southeast Asia, could soon have its moment in the international spotlight thanks to British chef and food writer Nigella Lawson, who extolled its virtues in an inte...

in Food Culture

[Photos] Saigon's Forward-Looking Cafes on the Future of Coffee

  In the first part of our two-part photo project on Saigon's coffee shops, Saigoneer paid a visit to two old-school cafes with decades of heritage. In the second part, we're shining the limel...

Khoi Pham

in Food Culture

Milk Tea-Flavored Water Is Here. Is the Apocalypse Near?

The stark, clinical fluorescent lighting inside the convenient store casts an air of ominous dread all over the shop’s beverage section. With a glance, I find it. The blue package stares back at me me...