in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Ghé Coffee Tucks Art, Fragrant Coffee Into a Quiet D1 Crevice

Delivering premium origin coffee and fine art from artists across Vietnam in a tiny room that dates back to French colonial times, smack dab in the middle of District 1, The Ghé Coffee balances the finer things in life and the comfortably mundane.

Paul Christiansen

in Food Culture

Into the Beguiling Backyard Rice Wine Distilleries of Long An

The highway eases into sand and gravel the way history descends into myth and legend when traveling towards Long An. A mere 27 kilometers outside of Saigon, the province feels a world away: the difference between a cocktail made with 18-year-old scotch, jackfruit-infused rum, seven types of bitters and brandy-soaked organic cherries and a plastic water bottle of homemade rượu nếp. The latter was the reason we were going there: for information, interviews and anecdotes to complete Saigoneer’s two-part investigation of the history of rice wine.

in Snack Attack

From a Blend of Cultures, Phá Lấu Became a Beloved Saigon Street Snack

When the word phá lấu is mentioned, two genres of dishes will appear in the mind of Vietnamese. One is a small bowl of orange broth that sings of coconut milk, another is slices of caramelized offal awash in a translucent shade of brown. Both these forms of preparations speak volumes about the growth of local street food through episodes of history.

in Snack Attack

Gỏi Đu Đủ Reflects the Mekong Region's Culinary and Cultural Wisdoms

As the cicadas begin to sing in the tamarind canopies along Pasteur Street after the first monsoon rain, vivid scenes from my formative years flash by in my mind. My cheeks became flushed and my eyes teary, but not from the harsh sun and wind, nor the frustration of losing multiple marble games; it was the sight, or rather, the scent of a papaya salad enveloped in Cô Ri pungent anchovy sauce.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: In D5, a Family Durian Xôi Xiêm Recipe Inspired by Cambodia

At first glance, xôi xiêm sầu riêng — or sticky rice with egg custard and durian — may appear plain-looking, but apart from being a tasty sweet treat, this simple dish also holds stories of life during Vietnam’s post-war period.

in Snack Attack

A Pilgrimage to Sơn La, Vietnam's National Mận Capital, as a Devoted Fan

There’s a kind of sweet, sour, and slightly tannic fruit that never fails to make our mouths water every summer.

Paul Christiansen

in Food Culture

Banana Is a Paragon of Neutrality. I Propose Using It as a Metric to Rank All Fruits.

Line up all the world’s fruits, best to worst, taking into account every rateable aspect imaginable including taste, appearance, price, reliability and seasonality — the banana rests at the exact middle. So I've personally used it as the ideal threshold to rank every fruit I've ever eaten.

Back Eat & Drink

in Food Culture

[Video] Meet the Man Behind Singapore’s Michelin-Starred Hawker Stall

Last week, two Singaporean hawker stalls made history by becoming the first-ever Michelin-starred street food establishments.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Saigon’s Original Bánh Mì Breakfast

I am a lifetime supporter of the sandwich.

Michael Tatarski

in Food Culture

Crossing the DMZ: A Visit to Saigon’s North Korean Restaurant

UPDATE: We're sad to announce that as of October 2017, Ryu Gyong has been shuttered permanently, along with a few other North Korean restaurants in Da Nang, Hanoi, and Saigon.

in Eat & Drink

Spice up Your Morning Phở With These Herbs

In the wonderful world of Vietnamese soups, everyone has their preferred set of spices.

Khôi Phạm

in Food Culture

From Kuy Teav to Hủ Tiếu: A Street Food History

Originally from Cambodia, made popular by Chinese vendors and enjoyed by local diners, hủ tiếu Nam Vang captures the essence of Vietnamese history in one hearty bowl of noodles.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Dessert Happy Hour at Quynh Hoa

Just as rush hour traffic starts to pick up around me, motorbikes zipping back and forth down the wide alley, I send a message to my coworker.

in Food Culture

Vietnam's Wrap & Roll Gets $6.9m Investment From Local Private Equity Firm

Saigon-based private equity firm Mekong Capital just announced a US$6.9 million investment in Vietnamese restaurant chain Wrap & Roll.

in Food Culture

30% of Coffee in Vietnam Has No Caffeine: Survey

If you've been seeking out cà phê sữa đá from street carts for a super-caffeinated start to your workday, you might want to look elsewhere, as there’s a chance you've been drinking coffee-flavore...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Good Bánh Bèo Comes to Those Who Wait

The most memorable eating experiences are the ones that take time. Of all the meals Saigon’s sidewalks can offer, the best require a pilgrimage to some faraway district and a series of trial-and-error...

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

[Video] Hẻm Gems: Fish Balls, Curry and Noodle Soup, a Perfect Storm

Some may say that good things in life come when you least expect them, and from my encounter with this week’s Hem Gem – curry fish balls and noodles – you can count me in as a firm believer in this pa...

in Food Culture

[Video] Saigoneer x Pasteur Street Brewing Company: The Saigoneer Session

Saigoneer is proud to announce the launch of its creative agency, Unbranded Creative. Our first project is one that has been in the works for over a year: a collaboration with Pasteur Street...

in Eat & Drink

Vinamilk Goes Organic

Vinamilk, Vietnam's largest dairy producer, is going organic.

Brian Letwin

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Enter the Bánh Đúc Jungle

While many of our culinary adventures take us out of our downtown comfort zone, there are a few gems hidden among the office buildings and skyscrapers of District 1.

in Food Culture

The Saga of the Bánh Mì

While Hanoi gets all the credit for phở, touting itself as the birthplace of Vietnam's national dish, Saigon holds the distinct honor of inventing the modern-day bánh mì.

in Eat & Drink

Vietnamese Cafes Take on Global Giants, Emerge Victorious

When Starbucks first opened its doors in Vietnam in 2013, a slight panic was in the air. From abroad, news outlets wondered whether the global coffee giant could adapt to Vietnam's unique coffee ...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: For Good Phở in Saigon, a Dollar Is All You Need

You can really stretch a dollar in this country. That's two cà phê sữa đá or two bánh mì, a couple liters of bia hơi, a xe ôm ride, a well-bargained souvenir, enough snacks to constitute a meal or a s...

in Food Culture

[Video] Americans Fail at Eating Vietnamese Food, Love It Anyway

There are a handful of universal truths in life. For instance:

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Best Bún Chả in Hanoi…in Saigon

The weather was truly Hanoian earlier this week. Outside, rain fell in sheets, flooding the pockmarked alley outside our office door. The sun had disappeared. Though a few particularly photo-obsessed ...

Brian Letwin

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Maison Marou: The House That Chocolate Built

Across from Ben Thanh Market sits a massive, open pit that will eventually serve as the base for a set of gleaming, modern towers housing the likes of a six-star Ritz-Carlton Hotel. But just beyond th...

in Food Culture

Hanoi World’s Greatest City for Food: Telegraph

While the international press has been fawning over Vietnamese cuisine long before US President Barack Obama shared a few bowls of bún chả with Anthony Bourdain in Hanoi a few weeks back, the visit ma...