in Food Culture

How Soy Milk Symbolizes an Imagined Vietnam of My Childhood in France

I still remember vividly the anticipation running through my veins, when I saw a waiter bringing me a glass of sữa đậu nành, every time my family took me to one of the many Vietnamese restaurants of the 13th arrondissement of Paris, the city’s renowned Chinatown. It was a neighborhood I was bound to get dragged to as a French kid with a Vietnamese parent, whether I wanted to or not. For me, this glass represented the quintessence of typical Vietnamese drinks during a good meal: one of the rare glimpses into the daily customs of my ancestors’ culture.

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: At Sara Ethiopian Restaurant, a Chicken Stew for the Soul

Before the existence of Sara Ethiopian Restaurant in Saigon, my knowledge about the African country could fit squarely in a child’s palm: its capital, Addis Ababa; the tragic Ethiopian Airlines crash in March; and its national dish, injera.

in Snack Attack

An Homage to Mỳ Quảng and Its Branching Family Tree Across Vietnam

Mỳ Quảng’s reputation has spread across Vietnam and even abroad, yet few are well-informed about its origin story and the land it hailed from.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: At Bún Thang 50, Unexpected Hanoi Flavors in a Phú Nhuận Corner

When I was growing up in California, every couple of months, plastic containers of sliced fried egg, chicken, and chả lụa would line the kitchen counter. This medley of ingredients would usually mean bún thang for dinner — which, in turn, signaled that the dinner was a special occasion.

Paul Christiansen

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: At Vietnam's Only Palestinian Eatery, Eating Maqluba and Dreaming of Peace

“If you have a heart and you have a mind, you must support Palestine,” Saleem Hammad emphasized as we sipped sweet tea overlooking Hanoi’s Old Quarter from the balcony of his restaurant, Oliva. The dinner we had just finished was delicious, but the visit to Vietnam’s only Palestinian restaurant felt more significant than a simple meal. Learning about Saleem’s journey, his personal relationship with Vietnam, and his efforts to deepen ties between Palestine and Vietnam underscored how cuisine can foster cultural exchange and understanding towards peace.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Atop a Beef Bowl Eatery, the Hidden Cozy World of Shochu Bar Mitsuboshi

Looking back at my days in Japan, I cherish most the moments I decided to get lost in yokochos — small and narrow alleys filled with shops, often bars — and push on a random door, not knowing what could await me behind it. It could be a wooden stall illuminated by blinding lights,  its noisy customers showered with beer; or a 19th-century-style Manhattan bar, where the only movements come from trails of smoke off the customers’ cigarettes and streams of light going through bottles of whisky behind the counter.

in Eat & Drink

When Rush Hour Hits, The Straits Offers a Singaporean Alternative

Saigon’s streets snarl with hot, sticky knots of traffic every evening. As people finish their workdays and look ahead to quality time with families at home, precious hours pursuing hobbies and meeting with friends around the city, they must first contend with horrific congestion. This rush hour period, when movement is slow and frustrating, coincides with peak skyline beauty.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Tokyo Moon Cafe Introduces Homey Korean Flavors to Japan Town

Stepping into Tokyo Moon is like venturing into a world of wonders, neatly packed within a mere 35-square-meter space.

Back Eat & Drink

Michael Tatarski

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Pasteur Street's Well-Hidden Cơm Trưa Mother Lode

Every once in a while, you come across a simple Vietnamese restaurant that absolutely blows you away.

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: D5's Bò Xào Sa Tế, a Feast for All the Senses

Saigon is changing at a dizzying rate, and so is its food scene: forget about your favorite café or restaurant for a few months and you can come back one day to find it replaced by a convenience store...

in Food Culture

[Photos] Sushi Chef Fuses Sneakers and Sushi to Create 'Shoe-Shi'

An artist and chef based in Italy has elevated the art of sushi to a new level by creating "shoe-shi."

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Quan 249’s Wondrous Cơm Chiên Emporium

It’s 6pm on a Thursday, and I’m up to my eyeballs in cơm chiên. Page after page, Quan 249’s excessively handled menu features a laundry list of fried rice combinations, some you’ve heard of, some you ...

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: To Chan's Noodle Soup Offers Comfort in a Bowl

If you turn up to a hủ tiếu spot anywhere in this city and there is not a hand-painted, wooden noodle cart taking up one corner of the venue, you may want to think twice about sitting down.

in Food Culture

Australian Chain Gloria Jean's Coffees Exits Vietnam After 11 Years

On the heels of homegrown restaurant chain The KAfe’s exit from the local market, Australian coffee franchise Gloria Jean’s Coffees is the next to go.

Michael Tatarski

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: D5's Glorious Com Tam Is the Perfect Drunk Food

Saigon is a city of a million cơm tấm carts, meaning it is easy to pick one at random and chow down. But some stand out from the crowd.

in Food Culture

Vietnam Has the Third-Most Expensive Starbucks Drinks in the World: Survey

While getting a drink from Starbucks in the US might not be a big deal, in Vietnam, it’s something of a luxury.

in Food Culture

Homegrown Startup The KAfe Disappears From Saigon, Hanoi

Just a year after making national headlines for successfully attracting US$5.5 million in foreign investment, Hanoi-based fusion food chain The KAfe has ended its operations in both the capital and Sa...

Michael Tatarski

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Anh Tư's Dreamy Grilled Chicken in Binh Thanh

Around the Saigoneer office I've become the go-to scribe when it comes to chicken-related Hẻm Gems. Therefore, when a friend described a Binh Thanh-based restaurant with dozens of chickens hanging abo...

in Food Culture

Bangkok to Remove All Sidewalk Vendors by End of Year

While Saigon debates the future of street vendors in the city, officials in nearby Thailand are working to remove all vendors from Bangkok's pavements by the end of the year. 

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: An Excursion to Tan Dinh's Secret Bún Hideout

Life is slow in the jungle of hẻms that branches out from Dinh Cong Trang Street. Here, a bún establishment offers noodles of northern heritage using recipes handed down through generations of family....

in Eat & Drink

Tokyo Restaurant Dishes Out Insect Ramen

Saigon's recent In-N-Out pop-up has nothing on a ramen restaurant in Tokyo which served up an unorthodox version of the popular dish last Sunday.

in Food Culture

America's Favorite Condiment, Sriracha, Is Not So Hot in Vietnam

After making its name in the United States, the rooster-branded hot sauce is trying its luck in Vietnam.

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Balanced Beauty of Bacon and Fried Rice

Our dining experience at A Lung was remarkably simple: there was no turning back when we saw bacon on the menu.

in Food Culture

Popularity of Coffee Fuels Strong Profits and Rapid Expansion for Coffee Chains in Vietnam

It’s a good time to be a coffee chain owner in Vietnam as the country’s appetite for a cup of Joe has never been more intense.

in Food Culture

Vietnamese-American Chef Andrea Nguyen Creates Eclectic Pho Cookbook

Vietnamese-American chef Andrea Nguyen's latest book, The Pho Cookbook, is an ode to Vietnam's national comfort food: phở.

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Chicken Noodles in Phu Nhuan's Flower Neighborhood

Located deep in the heart of Phu Nhuan District’s “flower” neighborhood, Mi Ga Lua Hong offers up a solid addition to Saigon’s host of chicken-centric dishes: a fried chicken drumstick with dry, green...

Brian Letwin

in Food Culture

In-N-Out Burger Pop-Up Hits Saigon for One Day

A few lucky Saigoneers were able to enjoy some coveted In-N-Out munchies this afternoon as the American regional burger chain opened a pop-up shop in District 1.

in Food Culture

D1 Launches Facebook Page to Help Street Food Vendors Evicted From Sidewalks

In the midst of Saigon’s sidewalk-clearing campaign, officials in the downtown area are aiming to help street vendors through the power of Facebook.