Vua Versus Volcano: How the 1883 Eruption of Krakatoa Upset the Nguyễn Dynasty
On September 9, 1883, ominous smoke hung over Huế. The sun was blue-green, and throughout the day, people on the streets had no shadows. As their legitimacy relied on maintaining the Mandate of Heaven, the Nguyễn royal court was alarmed. Three high-ranking mandarins rushed to advise the Emperor to change his ways to regain Heaven’s favor. While this strange incident can be easily dismissed as another case of outdated superstitions, a closer look reveals it as a rare conjunction of astrology, power, and — given the source of the smoke — volcanism, all set against the backdrop of France’s rapid incursion into Vietnam.
1992 Vietnam Through the Lens of French Photographer Raymond Depardon
After his Saigon trip in 1972 , famed French photographer Raymond Depardon returned in 1992 to traverse the length of Viet...
Tim Doling in Saigon
How Nhà Thờ Đức Bà Narrowly Escaped Being the 'Leaning Cathedral of Saigon'
Soon after its completion, Saigon’s iconic Notre Dame Cathedral developed an embarrassing tilt.
Family-Friendly Summer Vacations Made Easy at Crowne Plaza Phu Quoc Starbay
The ripening of sweet jackfruit, mangosteen and mangos; hammocks swinging gently in patches of cool shade; and evenings that stretch on with the comfort of knowing there is no alarm clock waiting the next morning: summer arrives as opportunity. When school holidays begin, families scramble to adjust schedules and secure care and activities, creating the potential to carve out some time for a vacation to savor fresh air, explore thrills, and simply bond as a family in a beautiful destination.
Tim Doling in Vietnam
The History of Hanoi's Lost Tramway Network
When they first drew up plans for a citywide tramway network in 1894, it seemed as though the Hanoi authorities would follow Saigon’s example by opting for steam traction. Yet, by the time government approval was forthcoming in 1899, advances in technology made it possible to construct the entire system as a state-of-the-art, one-meter gauge electric tramway.
Tim Doling in Saigon
How Bách Tùng Diệp Became a Saigon Park From Earmarked Consulate Land
In 1927, after being abandoned for more than 60 years by its Spanish owners, the “Jardin d’Espagne” — known today as Bách Tùng Diệp or Lý Tự Trọng Park — seemed set to become the new home of the British Consulate General in Saigon… but it was not to be.
Grab a Cold One: The Thirsty Colonial History of Ice Production in Vietnam
Walking through Saigon nowadays, you will notice that ice is so omnipresent, it’s part of the scenery. From trà đá, cà phê sữa đá to sinh tố, every drink is consumed with ice in order to combat the intense heat. Before the French brought ice factories to Vietnam, in hot, tropical cities like Saigon, you wouldn’t expect to find ice. Controlling the cold chain is now an important part of our logistics, be it for healthcare or food storage, opening the door for any cuisine to expand with new ingredients. A few centuries ago, however, it was once a thriving business catering to French colonists.
Khôi Phạm in Vietnam
What Does the ‘Tower of Hanoi’ Puzzle Have to Do With Vietnam?
What is the Tower of Hanoi? While this official name might sound mysterious, if you’re an avid consumer of adventure media and role-playing games or just simply a curious former child, it’s likely that you’ve seen or even played this game without knowing what it’s called.
Brian Letwin in Saigon
Old Saigon Picture of the Day: Cho Lon Streetcars
From Cho Lon to Ben Thanh Market, streetcars were once a common sight on Saigon's main thoroughfares. While their tracks have long disappeared, their memory lives on in old photographs like the one a...
Brian Letwin in Saigon
10 Old Pictures of Saigon Cyclo Drivers
Even though Saigon has gone through many changes over the last century, there are certain characteristics of the city that have endured. Before the age of the motorbike, cyclos were one of the most c...
Brian Letwin in Saigon
Old Saigon Picture of the Day: Water Delivery!
In the days before indoor plumbing and bottled water were the norm, like most of the world, Saigonese relied on wells to provide water (and in many areas still do). During the early 20th century, wat...
Brian Letwin in Saigon
Old Saigon Picture of the Day: Colonial Corner
Just as it is today, Dong Khoi St. (formerly Rue Cantinat under the French and Tu Do from 1954 - 1975) has long been of Saigon's busiest and most important boulevards. Due to it's history, the street...
Brian Letwin in Saigon
Old Saigon Picture of the Day: City of Bikes
A slower mode of transportation for a slower time.
Brian Letwin in Saigon
Chợ Bà Chiểu - Past & Present
Chợ Bà Chiểu, located on Bach Dang St., has been the central market for Binh Thanh District since 1942. While it's been upgraded and expanded numerous times, most recently in 1987, you can still...
Brian Letwin in Vietnam
How Vietnam Got its Name
Le Minh Khai, a researcher of SE Asian history, found that there was a lot of misinformation on the interwebs relating to the origin of Vietnam’s name, especially in English sources. Khai jumped into ...
Brian Letwin in Saigon
Old Saigon Picture of the Day: Gánh Tàu Hủ (1926)
While I'm not the biggest fan of chè (Vietnamese sweet soup) in general, gánh tàu hủ (tofu with ginger, caramel and optional coconut milk) has a special place in my heart (even if it's not technically...
Brian Letwin in Saigon
The Story of Tan Son Nhat Airport
As the plan for Saigon's massive Long Thanh Airport moves forward (despite some objections), we thought we'd take a minute to look back at the long history of old standby, Tan Son Nhat.
Brian Letwin in Saigon
Old Saigon Picture of the Day: The Original Sửa Xe (1890s?)
Before the age of motorbikes, Saigon's streets were characterized by ox-drawn carts and horse-drawn carriages. And, just like motorbikes, everyday wear and tear would take their toll, requiering smal...
Brian Letwin in Saigon
The Story of Saigon’s Opium Refinery
Many of you have probably enjoyed a meal in the courtyard at 74 Hai Ba Trung, which currently houses a number of high-end restaurants such as Vasco’s, Hanayuki, Annz and The Refinery; the latter being...
12 Color Pictures of Saigon from Before WWII
With each passing day, Saigon's future becomes a bit more clear, and its past a bit more distant. But fear not, for we've assembled a slideshow of colorized images from Saigon's colonial past.
Saigon’s Citadel - Part 2
This is part 2 of our series on Saigon's citadel. You can read part 1 here. Nguyen Anh (AKA Gia Long) would never use his citadel for military action as hostilities only resumed after his death in 18...
Brian Letwin in Saigon
Old Saigon Picture of the Day: Check Out This Badass
In the time before Ducatis and Yamaha FZ16s were the hottest things on two wheels in Saigon, the Honda Cub 67 reigned supreme with local cool kids. Even though many of the old 67's are still around, ...
Brian Letwin in Saigon
Old Saigon Picture of the Day: Saigon Railroad Building
Not too long ago, the park across from Ben Thanh Market was the location of the city's main train station. Even though the station moved to District 3 following the American War, remnants of the old ...
Brian Letwin in Saigon
Old Saigon Picture of the Day: Nước Mía
This old school nước mía cart looks pretty sleek...
Brian Letwin in Saigon
Old Saigon Picture of the Day: Majestic Hotel (1920s)
The Majestic Hotel has occupied its current location along the Saigon river since 1925. Commissioned by Chinese businessman Hui Bon Hoa, the hotel has undergone a number of major renovations over the...
Brian Letwin in Saigon
Street Signs: Trần Hưng Đạo, Warrior Poet (Part 1)
Trần Hưng Đạo Street is a major thoroughfare, stretching from District 1 to District 5. Let’s take a closer look at the street’s namesake and see why he is one of Vietnam’s most famous historical...
Brian Letwin in Saigon
Old Saigon Picture of the Day: 33 Export
Brian Letwin in Saigon
Old Saigon Picture of the Day: Go Vap (1930)
There's little to be found in English about the development of Saigon's outer districts. Like much of the city's colonial urban history, if records do exist, they're likely buried in some Parisian arc...
