Most Saigoneers who spent their formative years in the 2000s and 2010s probably grew up amongst the aisles of bookstores, not because we were particularly bookaholic, but because they were pretty much the only third place around with free air-conditioning.
When I was growing up, coffee shops seemed more like places where adults conducted business deals, and I couldn’t afford them anyway. Tạp hóa corners could satisfy snack cravings, but had no seats, so before the advent of convenience stores, I sought solace in the brightly lit, paper-scented, somewhat dusty shelves of bookstores: FAHASA locations, Nguyễn Văn Cừ, Minh Khai, Xuân Thu, Cây Gõ, amongst others. Just simply being in close proximity with books sparked my first interest in reading — much love to the staff at my district FAHASA back then for seeing us on the floor engaging in intense đọc cọp and turning a blind eye.
In 2026, many major bookstore locations are facing a decline: in April, Cá Chép Bookstore bid farewell to readers after 13 years in the business and shuttered all locations; PNC also announced the closure of a 44-year-old location just last month. Changing consumer habits and rising operating costs were the most common reasons given.
Still, it might be too hasty yet to deduce that Saigoneers have stopped reading: they are still into books, but a new generation of readers have turned their attention to the more intimate and personalized book-shopping and reading experience at independent stores. The indie bookstores featured in this article each offer slightly different stock, but share some similarities: their presence is made known via word of mouth and social media reviews; and they seek to satisfy not only a need to buy books, but also a space to read them.
1. Pages of Passion
L6, 35 Nguyễn Văn Tráng, Bến Thành Ward, HCMC
Photo by Jimmy Art Devier.
Hidden on the sixth floor of an old apartment in central District 1, Pages of Passion is perhaps the most impressive entry on this list in terms of growth. Thảo and Huy, the store’s owners, started selling books online in 2024 as a passion side project to assuage their corporate burnout, but eventually quit their jobs to operate the physical store full-time. Since Saigoneer’s first visit in mid-2025, when the space only hosted shelves of new and gently used books, Pages of Passion has flourished into a mini community of book lovers, with a quiet cafe dedicated to reading, and a small space for talks and workshops.
Pages of Passion focuses solely on English-language titles, and while you can find universally respected classics here, the owners do a sterling job curating both new and obscure titles, including a diverse Vietnam-specific section featuring works by Vietnamese authors or written about the country. Full disclosure: Pages of Passion has a small shelf housing titles that have been highlighted in the Saigoneer book review series Loạt Soạt. Check us out!
Photos by Jimmy Art Devier.
Read our interview with Pages of Passion here.
2. InBook
25A Nguyễn Bỉnh Khiêm, Sài Gòn Ward, HCMC
InBook had its start in Hanoi, and recently expanded to Saigon in the form of a two-floor space above a stylish cafe. Lan, the founder, studied in France and used to work on a few projects translating books from French into Vietnamese. She established InBook first as a way to introduce more children’s literature to her daughter, but the store’s library has slowly expanded over time.
The bookstore specializes in brand-new books written in French and English. My visit showed a sizable collection of literary classics and genre fiction, including YA, romance, and crime. The French section features a lot of children’s literature, too. If you’re in search of less-mainstream titles, InBook might not be a place to look, but I do appreciate that it also has a dedicated space for translated works of Vietnamese origin, as well as an area with free beverages to read. Besides, one shelf is reserved for “storekeeper’s picks” with thoughtful reviews that are hand-written — a cozy addition.
3. Bá Tân - Sách cũ Thư viện
451/22 Hai Bà Trưng, Xuân Hòa Ward, HCMC
Photos by Cao Nhân.
Bá Tân carries with it the towering book piles and nostalgic old-paper musk of the used bookstores of our childhood, but with a commendable level of organization and cleanliness. This is one location of a few that its founder Lê Bá Tân has tirelessly worked on for the past years. Tân majored in History in college and taught it for a few years; by complete chance, he inherited a friend’s substantial book collection and started posting photos of the titles to give away on social media. Queries from strangers began to come, so he answered the call of the universe by becoming a vintage book seller.
Photo by Cao Nhân.
The store focuses on used Vietnamese-language books, comprising two sections: one that sells by the kilos, and the other features “like new” gently used books. Bá Tân has one of the largest and most eclectic inventories of the list, with everything from rare first editions of literary classics to comic books and manga sets. The price is very affordable and the staff is knowledgeable, should you be looking for anything specific.
Photo by Cao Nhân.
Read our profile of Tiện sách Bá Tân here.
4. Hiệu sách Mùi Của Giấy
41 Street No. 9, Trung Sơn Residential Area, Bình Hưng Ward, HCMC
This bookstore has the most poetic name of the five: Mùi Của Giấy means “the scent of paper.” The book storage space can be a little claustrophobic, but is well-maintained and overall quite comfortable for browsing. The stock is mainly in Vietnamese though I did spot some new arrivals in English; it might be a bit hard to navigate the small space, but there’s a website of available titles and the two staff members are always happy to lend a hand. By “staff members,” I meant the human ones, because the feline staff is extremely illiterate — I give them a pass because they are so friendly and welcoming. For those who can’t wait to enjoy their latest finds, Mùi Của Giấy has space for reading and even a drink menu for refreshments. I’ve obtained their royalty card and can’t wait to find out what five drink stamps or three book stamps would get me.
5. Emtrangtri Bookstore
451/50 Hai Bà Trưng, Xuân Hòa Ward, HCMC
I first discovered Emtrangtri on social media and thought the space looked cool, so I decided to pay it a visit. As I made the turn into the 451 alley, I quickly realized that it was based in Bá Tân’s hẻm as well, just a few doors down. I am so jealous of this alley’s residents, living with two bookstores within walking, nay crawling, distance!
Emtrangtri is a mysterious new find in the list, occupying only one living room at a residential house. Upon entering, I was greeted by a female bookkeeper who was eating chips out of a bag while lounging on the sofa reading a book and listening to Laufey. I knew immediately that I had found my people. This was exactly what I look like reading at home. The store inventory focuses on thrifted books in English, Vietnamese, and French. The selection is facetiously obscure. With any given author, you won’t be able to find their Top 3 most famous books. Jane Austen’s Pride and Prejudice? No can do, you will take Northanger Abbey, and you will like it. According to the staff, they personally thrifted each book to put on the shelf.
All in all, the books are moderately priced, if on a slightly high side, but I have to say that the curatorial taste is impeccable. Every title seems esoteric but very interesting; I want to read all of them. There are cozy armchairs and sofas to read, even if you don’t buy anything. I will be back. Maybe with chips.
