in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: At Den the Bar, Making Friends Is as Easy as Finding a New Favorite Drink

At Den the Bar, you first come in for a drink, maybe stay a little longer to chat, then come back to catch up. And before you know it, you've become a regular, made a few friends, and sometimes even end up as part of the next generation of bartenders. For over 10 years, Den has become a place where human connections, creativity, and knowledge sharing matter more than fancy bottles. And behind it all lies a slightly bigger ambition: changing the way bartending is seen in Vietnam.

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: In Huế, Cơm Hến Bé Liêm Is Breakfast With a Side of Warm Hospitality

One of the small joys in life is having a favorite dish readily available whenever you crave it. Ever since I discovered the little hẻm in Saigon where Cơm Hến O Thu lies, my life has been ever so uplifted by the comfort that, every fortnight or so, I can hop on my motorbike, sit for 15 minutes, and have cơm hến on the table in a blink of an eye for gulping pleasures. Cơm hến is one of my favorite things, so naturally, when I got a chance to visit Huế, the dish’s hometown, there was no way I could miss out on this small joy that packs big flavors.

in Snack Attack

Feeling Peckish at the End of the Work Day? Have a Bánh Chiên, or Two, or Four.

The rainy season is upon us in Saigon. Bouts of rain from ferocious to gentle have helped tempered the searing heat of summer. At one corner of the city, amid the moisture of freshly rained-on atmosphere is the bittersweet caramel scent of sugar syrup bubbling on the stove and of fried dough. It fills me with both nostalgia and a craving for golden, crispy bánh chiên hidden at every market and alley across Saigon.

Paul Christiansen

in Dishcovery

The Shrimps Are to Die for at This Riverside Nhậu Spot on the Outskirts of Saigon

“We eat so many shrimps, I got iodine poisoning,” rapper Pimp C famously proclaimed . But how many shrimps would that requ...

Khôi Phạm

in Dishcovery

Gỏi Khô Bò Lê Văn Tám Connects Generations of Saigoneers Over Papaya Salad

My favorite genre of Saigon food places is most definitely address-less street vendors. With no name, no fixed location, no menu, no contact information, before Google Maps and smartphones, whether you can satisfy your craving for their food purely depended on the strength of your memory (to find them again) and the level of luck the universe bestowed on you that day.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Wake up Early, We're Getting Hủ Tiếu Cá for Breakfast

When I used to live in Hanoi, I always knew that if an eatery only opens for half a day, the food is probably certified, at least by the locals, to be not only good, but excellent. There is something written in the local traditions that specific dishes should be served at particular times of the day.

in Snack Attack

Sugar, Ice, and Everything Nice: On the Mekong Delta's Love for Trà Đá Đường

The pitcher of miền Tây-style sweet tea is like a boat ride taking me away from the exhaustion of the city back to the memories of my hometown amongst the canals of the Mekong Delta.

Back Eat & Drink

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: A Mom-and-Pop Ramen Experience in Hanoi's 'Japantown'

Anyone familiar with the Linh Lang–Kim Ma–Dao Tan area knows it’s the closest one might get to visiting Japan in Hanoi.

in Food Culture

2 Vietnamese Restaurants in Saigon, Hanoi Named Among Asia's 100 Best

Vietnam’s culinary prowess is no secret, with its traditional dishes helping to draw tourists from all over the globe. 

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: A Simple but Well-Balanced Bún Cá Thái Bình in Ba Đình

In these uncertain times when everything oscillates between “business as usual,” “total lockdown” and all shades in-between, I don’t really know when this article will be published, or if the little e...

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: From Ohio to D7, the Serendipitous Story of Saigon's Lamb Phở

A highlight of my last visit to Phở Lạc Việt was a special moment when I reached out and the tips of my fingers touched a warm bowl inside the heating cabinet.

Michael Tatarski

in Food Culture

Binh Duong, a Surprising Oasis of Taiwanese Snacks and Chinese Dumplings

This is part 2 of our two-part series on Taiwanese and Chinese food in Binh Duong. Read part one here.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: How 2 Brothers From Punjab Spread Their Love for Indian Food

Some names that immediately come to mind when the topic of Indian food is raised are the old favorites, such as Namaste on Tho Nhuom Street or Foodshop 45 in Truc Bach. But have you heard of a small r...

Michael Tatarski

in Food Culture

A Journey into Binh Duong's Deep Chinese & Taiwanese Flavors

Believe it or not, there is more to Binh Duong than just industrial parks producing your next Uniqlo T-shirt or pair of running shoes.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Lily Coffee, a Hideaway for When Life Gets Overwhelming

Nestled in a nook so small that not many Hanoians even know of it, Lily Coffee is a true hideaway, with its entrance tucked on the side of an alley. The gate held ajar separates two worlds — one ...

Khoi Pham

in Vietnam Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Da Lat's Ngàn Cafe Is as Comforting as an Embrace

Walking down Da Lat’s Robin Hill amid emerald pine trees and languid fluffs of cloud, one’s eyes will inevitably encounter a visual disturbance in the form of bright orange plastic maple trees. They a...

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: D6's Hot and Sour Suan La Fen Is the Noodle Dish to Conquer

Every time I lap up a spoonful of searing broth that’s so spicy I could almost count the number of times my face pulses, I feel grateful for taste buds.

Elise Luong

in Vietnam Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Cù Rú, an Old Saigon Bar That Took Root in Da Lat

Editor's note: Cù Rú Bar, the artists' solace, was born in Saigon by a tightknit group of friends and lovers, fueling creative souls with delectable homemade rượu cocktails, the group relocated to Da ...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Xóm Hà Hồi's Dill-icious Golden Grilled Cá Lăng

With Hanoi deep in winter’s chill, our bellies crave hearty delights, and there is nothing like frying your own chả cá in the cozy little hamlet of Hà Hồi to ward off the season’s bite.

in Food Culture

Year in Review: Saigoneer's Picks for Favorite Hẻm Gems, Art (and More) of 2020

In 2019, when the world was not going through a global public health disaster, dining out seemed like the most natural activity in our daily routine. We drank, we relished, we munched, and we bantered...

Linh Pham

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Quán Nhạc Cầm Nurtures the Soul Like a Love Song

Albeit ostensibly a coffee shop, Cầm’s specialty is actually old Vietnamese music.

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Saigon's Hakka Culture Lives in D5's Khổ Qua Cà Ớt

Stuffing food inside other food is an ingenious human invention on par with refrigeration, chopsticks, and Gmail’s “undo” button.

in Eat & Drink

Kitchen: A Non-Profit Restaurant Dishing up No-Nonsense Comfort Food

The kitchen is the heart of a home. This is the philosophy behind Kitchen, a new not-for-profit restaurant in District 2 that aims to nurture a community with delicious, healthy food. 

Mầm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Thời Thanh Xuân, the Special Saigon Cafe Run by Deaf Staff

Quán của Thời Thanh Xuân not only encompasses the youth of its founder, Võ Thành Luân, it’s also where hard-of-hearing Vietnamese can write their own story, learn, focus on self-development, and be a ...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Hidden Gem, the Cafe that Recycled Knick-Knacks Built

It is difficult to describe Hidden Gem Café without paraphrasing its name, but I have not found a better way to characterize this wonderful establishment.

in Eat & Drink

From Plant to Pour: Rethinking Vietnamese Coffee

Saigoneer will never see coffee the same way again.

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: A Vietnamese Curry That Makes the Case for Coconut Milk

If you’re not usually a fan of Vietnamese curry, Cà Ri Gà 3T’s signature dish is a surprisingly well-balanced offering. And If you are indeed a fan, then you’re in luck.