in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Xóm Hạ Hồi's 30-Year-Old Bún Thang Stands the Test of Time

If you peel through the peaceful residential areas around the Quang Trung and Trần Hưng Đạo crossroads, you might just chance upon Bún Thang 11 Hạ Hồi, a humble, household noodle spot.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Căng Tin Cafe, a Gateway to the Past for the City's New Youth

Hanoi’s café scene is saturated with cafés selling a vision of the past.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Blue Crab and Beer for a Bodacious Snack on the Hanoi Sidewalk

Of all seafood in Vietnam, ghẹ (blue crab) is among the most expensive. Even at wholesale markets, these crustaceans can fetch from VND300,000 to 400,000 a kilogram and any buffet deal that boasts their presence naturally comes with an exorbitant price tag. It was a personal surprise for me to find this highly sought-after delicacy right on the pavement at Quán Ghẹ Cô Tươi.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: A Blissful Fish Feast at Bún Cá Sâm Cây Si

As hot as it gets, Hanoi’s scorching summer is no match for delightful fish rolls and refreshing sour soup.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Cozy up at Ẩn Cà Phê With Morning Coffees and Night Cocktails

In the Mood for Love , Wong Kar-wai’s elegantly restrained movie about married lovers resisting adultery, offers up a del...

Paul Christiansen

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Cà Phê Sữa and Cơm Tấm With a Side of Espionage History

Kimchi is not a common cơm tấm accouterment. The extra helping of chili pepper heat, palate-cleansing bitterness and cabbage leaf crunch doesn't taste out of place beside a fully loaded plate of broken rice, it’s just not a common feature of the southern staple. This is not so at Cà Phê Đỗ Phủ-Cơm Tấm Đại Hàn, where the story behind kimchi’s existence on the plate is more interesting than the meal itself.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Tân Định's Tried-and-True Bánh Canh Cua for a Late Breakfast

Bánh canh, at times described as Vietnamese udon or even “mouse-tail noodles,” is a great mystery on its own. Etymologically speaking, bánh canh translates to “soup-cake,” and these thick, cylindrical noodles made with tapioca and rice flour of varying ratios do invoke a sense of cognitive dissonance.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Midnight Hủ Tiếu Only for Saigon's Most Patient Night Owls

As a Saigonese who has lived abroad for half of her life, I have a huge craving for hủ tiếu khô (dry noodles), my go-to breakfast meal and a dish my family always made sure to get on our way to my mother’s hometown in the Mekong Delta. Something special about the combination of the rich rice noodle, bone broth, and pork slices made us return for more. Though I later moved to the US and was exposed to other versions of dry noodle dishes and flavorful cuisines from different parts of the world, the memory of savoring a rich and topping-full hủ tiếu khô bowl from the motherland still remains in my mind. 

Back Eat & Drink

in Food Culture

Year in Review: Saigoneer's Picks for Favorite Hẻm Gems, Art (and More) of 2020

In 2019, when the world was not going through a global public health disaster, dining out seemed like the most natural activity in our daily routine. We drank, we relished, we munched, and we bantered...

Linh Pham

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Quán Nhạc Cầm Nurtures the Soul Like a Love Song

Albeit ostensibly a coffee shop, Cầm’s specialty is actually old Vietnamese music.

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Saigon's Hakka Culture Lives in D5's Khổ Qua Cà Ớt

Stuffing food inside other food is an ingenious human invention on par with refrigeration, chopsticks, and Gmail’s “undo” button.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Thời Thanh Xuân, the Special Saigon Cafe Run by Deaf Staff

Quán của Thời Thanh Xuân not only encompasses the youth of its founder, Võ Thành Luân, it’s also where hard-of-hearing Vietnamese can write their own story, learn, focus on self-development, and be a ...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Hidden Gem, the Cafe that Recycled Knick-Knacks Built

It is difficult to describe Hidden Gem Café without paraphrasing its name, but I have not found a better way to characterize this wonderful establishment.

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: A Vietnamese Curry That Makes the Case for Coconut Milk

If you’re not usually a fan of Vietnamese curry, Cà Ri Gà 3T’s signature dish is a surprisingly well-balanced offering. And If you are indeed a fan, then you’re in luck.

in Food Culture

When Life Gives You Flavorful Vietnamese Cashews, Make Vegan Cheese

“Firstly, I had to find my calling, but in the end, it all came down to creating something and then seeing others enjoy it."

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Sipping Cocktails on Plastic Stools Is a Special Saigon Street Treat

Is there anything more synonymous with Saigon than the humble street cart? With stalls citywide on every corner, it’s our version of the public house — places where people come together and connect, a...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Sonder Cafe, a Home for Whimsical Drinks and Cool Beans

sonder (n): the realization that each random passerby is living a life as vivid and complex as your own.

Paul Christiansen

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: A Home for Live Music and Quietude Inside an Old French Villa

If Vừng Ơi Mở Ra Cafe were a person, it would be your older, more sophisticated and welcoming friend.

Michael Tatarski

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Korean Comfort Food in Binh Thanh for Hungover Heads

One of the great joys of dining out is coming across the unexpected.

Paul Christiansen

in Food Culture

When in Da Lat, All Roads Lead to Bánh Mì Xíu Mại

Which rendition of bánh mì xíu mại you prefer may say more about you than it does Da Lat’s beloved meatballs.

Michael Tatarski

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Come for the Dim Sum, Stay for the Dim Sum

As the old saying goes, when in Hanoi, do as your colleagues do.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: A Warming Phở Chay to Welcome a New Autumn

Tree-lined Lo Duc street is home to Phở Chay: a restaurant so small it could fit in the palm of your hand. 

Paul Christiansen

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Spice up Your Study Session With a Warm Ginger Coffee at An Miên

”The flower was never meant to survive the fruit's triumph.”

in Food Culture

KFC Remains Vietnam's Most Popular Fast Food Chain, New Survey Shows

Colonel Sanders' fast food remains the top choice of Vietnamese palates.

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Best Fried Chicken Rice in Saigon Is in District 8

The success story of Cơm Gà 142 epitomizes the impressive marriage between technology and word of mouth in Vietnam’s golden age of food delivery startups.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: A Stylish Urban Brew at the Effortlessly Hip Cà Thiều

Occupying a few meters of the sidewalk on Pho Nguyen Gia Thieu, a lovely leafy lane in the residential south of the French Quarter, Cà Thiều is nestled at the entrance of a dusty, unassuming apartment...

in Food Culture

Starbucks Unleashes Pumpkin Spice Latte on Vietnam for the First Time

Frequently mocked as an essential item alongside Ugg boots, yoga pants, scented candles and gender reveal parties in a "basic" starter pack, the popular fall beverage has arrived in Vietnamese St...

in Food Culture

The Good, the Fresh and the Crispy: Quy Nhon's Wondrous Cuisine in 3 Dishes

A beautiful coastline, stunning rolling mountainscapes, and multiple historic vestiges are not the only merits of Quy Nhon City.