Reminiscing About the Last Days of Downtown Saigon’s Pigeon Coop
The first time I pay a visit to the Pasteur pigeon coop, Lê Văn Âu assures me the place is probably not going anywhere.
Hẻm Gems: A Long-Anticipated Bowl of D10's Pre-Eminent Mì Vịt Tiềm
Rarely have I gone into a meal with such anticipation.
International Photographer Captures Spirit of Đạo Mẫu in Vibrant Photo Book
Tewfic El-Sawy’s introduction to Đạo Mẫu, also known as the Mother Goddess religion, began with music.
Tracing the Lineage of Da Lat's Delicious Bánh Mì Xíu Mại
Every morning, the corner of Da Lat’s Hoang Dieu and Tran Nhat Duat streets is a mess of plastic tables and rubbish bins, bánh mì crumbs and bodies hunched over small bowls. This particular patch of s...
[Photos] The Iconic La Dalat, Vietnam’s First Domestic Vehicle
Though production only lasted five years, the La Dalat has earned a place in Saigon history as Vietnam’s first locally manufactured commercial car.
Hẻm Gems: Cocktails and Conversation at Saigon’s Classiest Sidewalk Spot
Editor's note: This review from 2017 was of City Beer Station's first location on Pham Ngoc Thach Street, which has since closed. Over the past years, the cocktail bar has moved numerous times. Recent...
From the Bottom of the Barrel to the Top of the Heap: The Rise of Cơm Tấm
Swing by chị Hien’s street cart for dinner on any given day and you’ll find a cross-section of Saigon that covers all demographics: middle-class residents from the apartment blocks up the street,...
UN Gives Vietnam $4.21m to Rebuild Typhoon-Battered Provinces
The Vietnamese government recently pledged VND1 trillion (US$44 million) in disaster aid after the United Nations (UN) approved US$4.21 million to provide additional assistance to those affected by Ty...
Mai Chau: A Delicate Balance of Mass Tourism and Independent Travel
With an expected 13 million international visitors this year, not to mention an ever-increasing number of domestic tourists, Vietnam’s tourism industry is growing at a rapid pace. Across the country, ...
Sủi Dìn’s Journey From Imperial China to the Streets of Hai Phong
The first time I stumbled upon cô Ut’s nightly sidewalk ritual, the performance was already well under way. Perched on the low steps of what serves as a VietinBank branch by day, the young woman sat r...
Hẻm Gems: Chinese-Malaysian Noodles and Saigon's New Generation of Street Food
When it comes to Saigon’s culinary landscape, the southern hub is pretty progressive. In addition to an array of Vietnamese dishes from every corner of the country, the city has also acquired a cosmop...
A Very Saigon Collaboration: Hey Camel Ceramics and Linda Mai Phung’s Workwear Collection
Saigon breeds unusual collaborations. Take a walk around most neighborhoods and you’ll spot the odd storefront that sells both cơm chiên and motorbike parts, or an entrepreneurial spirit who’s managed...
Typhoon Damrey: 44 Dead, 22 Missing, 40,000 Houses Damaged
Vietnam’s coastal provinces were battered by devastating Typhoon Damrey during the weekend.
Hẻm Gems: The Ingenuity of 24-Way Grilled Oysters in D4
Innovation is important. With a healthy imagination and a bit of gusto, humans have the ability to create everything from DIY submarines to all-terrain wheelchairs to helmets specifically for married ...
Hẻm Gems: The Green Delight of Phu Yen's Bánh Canh Hẹ
In the age of the internet, we go back and forth about everything, including whether or not the most important meal of the day is, in fact, important. While members of the medical profession continue ...
Watch out for These 5 Vietnamese Food-Related Superstitions
Every culture has its own customs, superstitions and traditions, some of which are so time-honored that even their strictest followers aren’t really clear on where the etiquette comes from. Vietnam ce...
Hẻm Gems: The Sumptuous Street Snacks of Ha Cao Ban Co
Whether we’re talking about the packaged foods aisle at Circle K or the lady whipping up bánh tráng trộn on the street corner, snack foods often meet two distinct criteria: they are both delicious and...
Board Game Van Tich Turns Vietnamese Legends Into Action Figures
Step into Nguyen Huu Tu’s office, and it’s pretty clear from the get-go how he feels about action figures. Running along one side of the room are several display cases, each housing an array of superh...
Hẻm Gems: An Evening of Bánh Xèo Phan Rang and People-Watching by the Canal
There are certain foods in life that take time to love. Mắm tôm, for instance, or mắm chưng. Any of the mắms, really. Durian, I’m told, is a wonderful fruit on the fourth or fifth try. And while some ...
[Video] Coi: A Creative Plea for Less Horn-Honking on Saigon’s Streets
Vietnamese traffic has a bad reputation among both local and foreign drivers for its chaotic nature. From sidewalk driving to texting behind the wheel and creative interpretations of local street sign...
Tourism Businesses Are Trying to Clean up Vietnam
The sun already threatens to sap our energy even though it’s barely mid-morning on Thanh Da Island. Devoid of the tall buildings and claustrophobic blocks found downtown, this small patch of greenery ...
Hẻm Gems: Phieu Ky’s Fantastic Phở Sa Tế
While Pho Phieu Ky’s white walls and fluorescent lighting are nothing special, the hideaway shop in District 5 makes up for its bland color scheme by pasting neon characters – Roman and Chinese – acro...
The Renovation Generation: Exploring What It Means to Be Young and Vietnamese
In the years after 1986, Vietnam’s Doi Moi economic reforms transformed one of the world’s poorest countries into a dynamic, fast-growing nation, shaping a generation of young Vietnamese into bright, ...
Hẻm Gems: Chef Badeh Brings Syrian Cuisine to Saigon
In the small covered area outside the front door, Chef Badeh brings together two of my favorite things: bread and fire.
With Ariana Grande, International Pop Culture Comes to Vietnam
When Ariana Grande takes the stage at Saigon’s Quan Khu 7 Stadium on August 23, it will be one of the many nights she’s done so during her Dangerous Woman tour. The American pop star will sing her cha...
Hẻm Gems: Kickin' It at Kim Thao's Hột Vịt Lộn Hangout
In the thick of rainy season, afternoon snack spots are hard to come by. Street vendors make do with cement-weighted umbrellas and heavily used tarpaulin, carving out (relatively) dry patches on the s...
Is Over-Tourism Threatening Sapa?
Heading back from So’s village, there is only one way into Sapa, and one way out.
At Hanoi’s Fury Room, Young Vietnamese Relieve Stress Through Destruction
Next time you’re in the capital and looking to unwind, you could opt for the standard walk around Hoan Kiem Lake and an ice-cold bia hơi. Or you could break something.
In Vietnam, Taboo and Tradition Hinder Contraception Awareness
With many urban Vietnamese waiting longer to get married, the country’s younger generations are recognizing the need to open up about sex education in the conservative country.
Hẻm Gems: Co Huoi and Her West-of-the-Border Delights
One of my favorite Saigon pastimes is wandering around strange neighborhoods. If you’re feeling lost or bored or lonely or just a little too comfortable, have someone drop you off in a district you do...
A Present Retrospective: Fusing Past, Present and Propaganda
Work Room Four’s current exhibition, A Present Retrospective, connects past and present in the iconic work of Cuban graphic artist René Mederos and the responses of five contemporary Vietnamese artist...
Street Cred: The Brothers From Tay Son
Flip through the history books and you’ll find a recurring character trait in many national heroes. From the Trung sisters to Ngo Quyen to Vo Thi Sau, Vietnamese history is full of badasses. While sev...
Hẻm Gems: Quan 249’s Wondrous Cơm Chiên Emporium
It’s 6pm on a Thursday, and I’m up to my eyeballs in cơm chiên. Page after page, Quan 249’s excessively handled menu features a laundry list of fried rice combinations, some you’ve heard of, some you ...
French Hip-Hop Meets Viet Rap in New Piu Piu Collaboration
As Vietnam’s underground hip-hop scene begins to emerge into the spotlight, one of its rising stars joins forces with an up-and-coming foreign artist to create a track for worldwide release.
Hẻm Gems: To Chan's Noodle Soup Offers Comfort in a Bowl
If you turn up to a hủ tiếu spot anywhere in this city and there is not a hand-painted, wooden noodle cart taking up one corner of the venue, you may want to think twice about sitting down.
Street Cred: Duy Tan, The 8-Year-Old Emperor
When the French first enthroned Duy Tan, the youngest emperor of the Nguyen dynasty, their expectation was that a boy, at the ripe age of eight, would not take much interest in imperial rule.
[Video] A Mesmerizing Timelapse of Mui Ne From Above
It’s safe to say that Rufus Blackwell has a soft spot for Vietnam.
Art for You Returns to Saigon
In Vietnam and around the world, Art with a capital "A" can be an intimidating subject. The pressure to "get" abstract or contemporary artwork has a way of deterring some from becoming museum goers or...
Hẻm Gems: An Expedition to D2's Hole-in-the-Wall Mexican Joint
On the modest patio in front of Simple Place, a charming little hole-in-the-wall in District 2, my Spanish coworker Victor launches into a stirring speech about tacos.
3A Station Is Closing in 2 Months
After three years, 3A Station is closing.
Vietnamese Athletes Head to the Start Line in First-Ever Asian Winter Games
This week, even during Saigon’s cool, dry season mornings, people across the city will face 34-degree heat on their morning commute, many of them heading toward air-conditioned offices and shaded pati...
Hẻm Gems: Beef and Booze at Lau Bo Co Thao
The alley where cô Thao has set up shop isn’t worth remembering. A high concrete wall runs down one side, reflecting the sun that’s sapping our energy on this hot, dusty Friday afternoon, while the ot...
Street Cred: Nguyen Du, Father of Vietnamese Literature
Even if you’re in need of a refresher on Vietnamese history, chances are you know the name Nguyen Du. The 19th-century statesman and poet is often known as the father of Vietnamese literature, and his...
Southeast Asia's Air Pollution Deaths Could Triple by 2030
A new Harvard-backed report is predicting the future of Southeast Asia’s air quality, and it does not look good.
The Story of Ông Táo, the Kitchen God Who Rides a Carp to Heaven
This evening, as Saigoneers continue their many Tet preparations and young revellers head out for a night on the town, Ong Tao is packing his bags for his annual trip to heaven.
Hẻm Gems: Loriekot’s Filipino Fare in the Heart of Saigon
In Saigon, there are plenty of places you don’t see when you’re breezing by on a motorbike. If you are (hopefully) focused on the road ahead, the narrow shopfronts and modest quán lining most Saigon s...
Hẻm Gems: Lunch Hour Gone Rogue at Oc Thao
In the vast and complex world of Saigon street food, ốc is generally classified as a staple of the fourth meal: nhậu. Its various forms, whether doused in garlic, drizzled with mỡ hành or swimming in ...
Hẻm Gems: Cô Hong’s Killer Late-Night Cơm Tấm
In the 16 years she’s spent selling cơm tấm on the District 4 side of the Calmette Bridge, cô Hong has seen some things.
Hẻm Gems: Striking a Balance With D10's Chè
If life is all about balance so, too, is food.
In His Second Feature, Viet Max Leans on Hip-Hop Roots, Unconventional Style
Viet Max is a man of many talents. At 37, the Hanoi native has managed to parlay his eclectic skill set into a breakdancing career, a street fashion brand and, more recently, work as a feature film di...
Take a Tour of D10’s 64-Year-Old Mosque
The gate to Masjid Niamatul Islamiyah does its best to hide the shaded, green garden behind it from street view. On the outside, you’re more likely to notice the motorbike repair shop next door spilli...
Earn a Free Stay in Da Lat by Planting a Tree
In Da Lat, the cozy Nha Gio Countryside guesthouse opens its doors to travelers who are willing to plant a tree as payment for a night’s stay.
Hẻm Gems: An Old-School Nhậu on D10's Bia Hơi Block
Any self-respecting Saigoneer has a certain reverence for the art of nhậu.
Vietnam Launches New National Tourism Website
On Tuesday, the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism (VNAT) launched its new and improved tourism website in an effort to boost the quality of the country’s tourism information and services.
Lost and Found: A Trip to Saigon’s Antique Market
The second he sees me, rolling down the crumbling concrete path on a dented bicycle, Chien perks up and heads in my direction.
Vietnamese Design Startup Earns Over $27,000 in First 3 Days
Fresh off a win at the Vietnam Creative Business Cup, Hanoi-based startup DesignBold raked in over US$27,000 in the first three days of its beta phase, a promising sign for the young venture.
Taiwan Is on the Brink of Legalizing Same-Sex Marriage
Tens of thousands of people recently descended upon Taipei to celebrate Taiwan’s 14th annual Pride weekend with a renewed hope: as early as next year, the small island nation could become the first in...
International Photographer Captures Spirit of Đạo Mẫu in Vibrant New Photo Book
Tewfic El-Sawy’s introduction to Đạo Mẫu, also known as the Mother Goddess religion, began with music.
International Pop-Up Restaurant to Open This Week in Saigon
When James Sharman starts talking about the last three weeks, he gets a little wide-eyed. His hands animate each story, hovering above the table. Between sips of coffee, he launches into tales of squi...
Slimmer New MEGA City Book Highlights Rapid Change in Saigon
For many downtown Saigon residents, it’s hard to remember a time when the Nguyen Hue walking street didn’t exist, despite the fact it’s not even two years old. Such is life in the southern hub: i...
Hẻm Gems: Saigon's Original Bò 7 Món
Going to dinner at Au Pagolac is like going to dinner with family. That is, of course, provided your family spans several generations and also serves its meals in crisp, white button-ups and the occas...
[Video] Mini-Documentary Weaves Visual Portrait of Ta Oi Artisan
As urban Vietnam charges into the future, connecting to the global economy during its modern development, the traditions of rural Vietnam stay alive through a handful of artisans.
Hẻm Gems: A Cuppa in Saigon's Oldest Cafe
One of the first things Co Suong does when we sit down in the back of her tiny District 3 cafe is bring out the newspaper clippings.
Hẻm Gems: Getting Lost in D3’s Soup Bermuda Triangle
During a busy Thursday lunch hour, my coworker and I commit a soup drive-by.
The Evolution of Bánh Xèo: A Street Food History
While phở, bánh mì and now, occasionally, bún chả hog the spotlight in Vietnamese cuisine, everyone in Vietnam is familiar, to some degree, with bánh xèo. On street corners and in tiny, mode...
Street Cred: Hai Thuong Lan Ong, the Father of Traditional Vietnamese Medicine
Hai Thuong Lan Ong is one of the most influential figures in the history of traditional Vietnamese medicine.
Saigon’s Traffic Nightmare: Challenges and Potential Solutions
On one particularly horrific Monday evening last summer, I wound up in a traffic jam. Bounding over the bridge between District 1 and Phu Nhuan, my jaw dropped as I found a sea of vehicles on the othe...
Hẻm Gems: Slurping Mì Ốc Hến in District 4 With Công 'the Enforcer'
Shuffling along in flip-flops and a pair of baggy shorts, Công the Enforcer arrives at our table.
Chowing Down on Crickets: Vietnam’s First Mass-Market Edible Insect Business
Crickets look a lot different when they’re fried and doused in seasoning.
For Japanese Retailers, Saigon Center Opening a Sign of Good Things to Come
Across the street from a colorful, decades-old Hindu temple, motorbikes pour into the parking garage of the newly opened Saigon Center. Spiraling five floors below ground, the downtown shopping m...
Street Cred: Princess Huyen Tran's Historic Hanky Panky
Arguably Vietnam’s most famous princess, Huyen Tran was born in 1287 to King Tran Nhan Tong and Queen Thien Cam, rulers of the Dai Viet kingdom. Throughout her childhood, Huyen Tran was your standard,...
Hẻm Gems: Saigon’s Original Bánh Mì Breakfast
I am a lifetime supporter of the sandwich.
Hẻm Gems: Dessert Happy Hour at Quynh Hoa
Just as rush hour traffic starts to pick up around me, motorbikes zipping back and forth down the wide alley, I send a message to my coworker.
Dislocate: Artist Bui Cong Khanh Deconstructs Vietnamese Identity
A beautiful large-scale recreation of a fortress, a photographic essay and a documentary video feature in Bui Cong Khanh’s latest exhibition, Dislocate, an impactful reminder of Vietnam’s heritage and...
[Videos] Hanoian Rappers Take Center Stage on Pan-Asian Music Platform
Staring straight into the camera, Emcee L addresses his viewers with confidence.
When WRONG Is Right: Vietnamese Tradition Meets Contemporary Fashion
There’s an hour to go before Fashion4Freedom unveils its latest collection and LanVy Nguyen is buzzing about, all smiles, in sneakers and a black-and-white embroidered áo dài.
