BackStories » Vietnam

Paul Christiansen

in Loạt Soạt

In 'Water: A Chronicle,' Nguyễn Ngọc Tư Wades Into the Mekong via Vignettes

“When you’ve lived to a certain age, you don’t ask whether or not something is true, you ask which truth it is.”

in Snack Attack

Tracing the Roots of Bến Tre's Coconut Candy via My Grandma's Family Tales

Hometown treats encapsulate within them the flavors of memories, reminding us of a land we haven’t visited for a long time. I open the jar of coconut candies from my mother and my hometown, and immedi...

in Vietnam

In 1965, Life in Cần Thơ Was Tightly Interwoven With the Mekong River

With more than 1.5 million citizens and many indicators of a modern metropolis, from the international airport to several Vincom malls, Cần Thơ is firmly established as the Mekong Delta's largest...

in Architecture

A New Reading Space in Trà Vinh Creates Comfort From Recycled Materials

“A book must be the axe for the frozen sea inside us,” according to famed Czech writer Franz Kafka.

in Dishcovery

The Unbearable Lightness of An Giang's Bánh Bò Thốt Nốt Chảo

Some simple delights can capture the flavor of an entire region.

Thi Nguyễn

in Snack Attack

In Bánh Củ Cải, a Curious Slice of Bạc Liêu's Teochew Heritage

You know a dish is special when it can spark conversation with a stranger on a bus. Halfway through the scrumptious bánh củ cải (radish cake) from our last-minute trip to the market, I shared the othe...

Paul Christiansen

in Natural Selection

One Nation's Beloved Cá Lóc Is Another Nation's Horror Movie

America has been losing its shit over snakeheads. All summer long my algorithm-led newsfeed has been alerting me to ominous headlines including “‘Horror movie’ snakehead fish that can slither on land ...

Paul Christiansen

in Environment

An Octopus? In My Cà Mau Swamp? It's More Likely Than You Think.

Worms live in the ground, birds live in the air, cá lóc live in lakes and octopuses live in the ocean, right? Wrong! Octopus can also live in the river.

Paul Christiansen

in Environment

In Awe of the Mekong Delta's Majestic Sluice Gates

A row of impenetrable watchtowers tasked with inflicting ruthless law and order upon a dystopian borderland seething with marauders, bandits and brigands? No. Sluice gates.

Paul Christiansen

in Environment

An Homage to the Mekong Delta and Its Bag-Wearing Fruits

Rats, mice, mosquitos, snakes, centipedes, caterpillars, snails, beetles and slugs: the more fertile a region is, the more pests inhabit it.

Paul Christiansen

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: From Cà Mau, Cô Xíu Brings Bánh Tầm Cà Ri Cay to Bình Thạnh

Recently, I’ve had the Mekong Delta on the mind. This month I made two trips down to research various elements of the watery region, and also spent time reading author Khải Đơn’s tremendous delta-focu...

Paul Christiansen

in Loạt Soạt

Khải Đơn's Poetry Debut Won't Shy Away From the Mekong Delta's Untold Complexities

Environmental devastation, irresponsible development, economic imperilment, social ills, war legacies and the abandonment of cultural traditions and connections: these multifaceted, interconnected rea...

Khôi Phạm

in Film & TV

Review: 'Bến Phà Xác Sống' Is the 2nd-Worst Movie I've Ever Watched. I'm Sad It's Over.

The day when the Saigoneer team organized a little get-together to watch Bến Phà Xác Sống in the cinema, I was running seriously late.

in Vietnam

In the Mekong Delta, Ferries Are Childhood Friends and Daily Companions

The Mekong Delta is called Đồng bằng Sông Cửu Long in Vietnamese — the Nine Dragons River, for the way the mighty Mekong splits into multiple strands as it nears its final destination, the East Sea.

Paul Christiansen

in Natural Selection

An Ode to Lục Bình, Vietnam's Invasive, Destructive, Beautiful Aquatic Jerk

Knotted gnarls of lush stems, leaves, vines; a verdant scrimmage of tangled plant matter kept afloat by buoyant bladders accented by pleats of pink petals that resemble the skirts of ballerinas trappe...

in Architecture

A Delta Nest in Cao Lãnh Fit for a Solitary Poet

Who says a single person can't nest?

in Culture

I Grew up Among Ducks in the Mekong Delta. They Always Remind Me of Home.

On a recent ritual walk around my suburb, I was held up by the sight of a middle-aged man with his “fur kid.” I introduced myself and when he heard the word “Vietnam,” his eyes lit up and with a smile...

in Environment

The Mekong Delta Loses Sand Too Fast Due to Extraction, It's Time for a Sand Budget.

Many people will be familiar with the dread when your income no longer covers your expenses; when you’ve exhausted your savings and are sinking ever deeper into debt. In the Mekong Delta, a similar do...

Khôi Phạm

in Film & TV

Review: 'Cù Lao Xác Sống' Is the Worst Movie I've Ever Watched. I Love It to Death.

When we entered the auditorium to watch Cù Lao Xác Sống, no theater attendant was there to check our tickets. Perhaps the telling emptiness of the room made them realize they could be doing better thi...

Michael Tatarski

in Loạt Soạt

A Study of the Mekong Through Stories Told on the River

Much like humanity, great systems of the natural world rely on connectivity to thrive.

in Natural Selection

Gõ Nước: An Endangered Tree That Offers Hope for Conservation Efforts

Is it true that the more names something has, the more beloved it is? Consider all the nicknames you have for your best friends, or the myriad of terms people have invented for deities. If one can ass...

in Vietnam

Mang Thít, Vĩnh Long's 'Kingdom of Brick Kilns,' Is on Its Last Legs

Along the rivers and canals of Mang Thít, clouds of smoke from the Mekong Delta’s last brick kilns languidly stream into the air.

in Culture

How Châu Đốc's Chăm Muslim Community Celebrates Ramadan

Vietnam's recent four-day holiday coincided with observations of Ramadan this year.

in Snack Attack

Just a Love Letter to Saigon's Tropical Fruits

How lovely to have taste buds and to have tasty things to eat.

in Vietnam

What a Set of Art Homework From 1930 Long Xuyên Teaches Us About Past Vietnam

Much like their descendants today, schoolchildren of 1930s Vietnam also took art classes as part of their syllabus. In this rare collection of what was essentially our grandparents’ homework, we can s...

in Architecture

Vĩnh Long's Rich Architectural Heritage Tells Stories of Taste, Time, and Turbulence

Vĩnh Long is a land of rich historical values located in the Mekong Delta. Here, generations of residents from diverse cultural backgrounds have been living, working, and interacting across key milest...

Michael Tatarski

in Environment

Scientists Confirmed 91 New Species in Vietnam in 2020, WWF Report Shows

A new report from the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF) highlights just how biodiverse the Greater Mekong region remains, even as major threats continue to impact flora and fauna populations.

in Film & TV

A Movie Adaptation of 'Đất Rừng Phương Nam' Will Hit Theaters in Late 2022

The adventures of the intrepid An will return to screens in a movie adaptation by director Nguyễn Quang Dũng.

in Culture

The Mud-Tastic Fun of An Giang's Cattle Race Festival

Every year when the 8th lunar month comes around, people from different walks of life gather in the land of Seven Mountains (Bay Nui) to immerse themselves in the jubilant atmosphere of the bare,...

in Vietnam

Nguyễn Thị Định, the Major General Leading Bến Tre's 'Long-Haired Army'

Hidden down an alley in Saigon’s District 3 is the house that was given by the government to Vietnam’s first woman general, Nguyễn Thị Định, after the country’s reunification in 1975.

in Travel

Immerse in a Serene Morning at Ngã Năm Floating Market

Floating markets haven’t completely disappeared from Vietnam’s commercial landscape.

Paul Christiansen

in Natural Selection

Cò: The Symbolic Soul of Vietnam's Countryside

Is Chim Lạc based on a real bird?

in Architecture

[Photos] An Open-Plan Abode That Harks Back to Traditional Homes

With seasonal floodwaters no longer reaching the neighborhood, when it came time to rebuild this home, architects opted to abandon the stilts previously used in the area while seeking to retain a trad...

in Ton-sur-Ton

From Discarded Denim, a Young Vietnamese Designer Crafts Artisanal Fashion

Dương Hoàng Hảo founded Perfect Vintage Stuff, a secondhand clothing brand to provide sustainable fashion that aims to pave the way for circular consumption. But far from your average off-the-rack thr...

in Vietnam

[Photos] Long Xuyen, an Enterprising Mekong Delta Trading Hub in the 1920s

Founded on the banks of the Hau River, Long Xuyen began as a trading post and has prospered into one of the Mekong Delta’s major cities today.

in Vietnam

US, Australian Firms Are Trying to Trademark Vietnam's Award-Winning Rice

Companies in the United States and Australia are attempting to patent the famous ST25 and ST24 rice varieties developed in Vietnam. 

Paul Christiansen

in Music & Arts

The Unquenchable Spirit of Artist Lê Triều Điển

“Điển is like a flower; there is no question of growing or not growing.”

in Vietnam

A Woman in Soc Trang Faked Her Own Funeral to Avoid Debt

Trần Thị Tuyến's fraudulent funeral scheme unspooled because her family couldn't keep their stories straight. 

in Vietnam

[Photos] Fly Over Vietnam in the 1930s via These Rare Black-and-White Shots

What if you had a time machine and traveled 90 years into the past with a drone?

in Environment

Saltwater Intrusion Might Damage 40,000ha of Crops in Mekong Delta, Experts Say

Saltwater intrusion will threaten huge stretches of fruit plantations in the coming days and weeks.

in Vietnam

[Photos] Immerse in the Small-Town Charm of 1960s Vinh Long

Thanks to its tangled snarl of canals, estuaries, streams and rivers, one associates the Mekong Delta with boats.

in Architecture

[Photos] Colorful New Coffee Shop Brings Cargotecture to Can Tho

Do you sometimes find vintage coffee shops too cluttered and just want to experience something different?

in Travel

[Photos] The Incredibly Eye-Catching, Organic Signage of Sa Đéc

Signs are like voices.

in Vietnam

1.1m People Have Left the Mekong Delta in the Past Decade, Report Says

The impacts of climate change, hydroelectric plants, and a faltering economy have resulted in an exodus of people from the Mekong Delta.

in Culture

[Photos] Get Set, Row: The Aquatic Exuberance of Soc Trang's Ooc Om Bok Festival

Also called the Moon Worship festival, Ooc Om Bok is one of the liveliest festivals in the Khmer calendar.

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: A Vietnamese Curry That Makes the Case for Coconut Milk

If you’re not usually a fan of Vietnamese curry, Cà Ri Gà 3T’s signature dish is a surprisingly well-balanced offering. And If you are indeed a fan, then you’re in luck.

Michael Tatarski

in Health

How a Simple Toilet Improved the Life of a Small Ben Tre Family

Do you ever pause for a second when using the toilet?

in Environment

Dams, Sand, Rice: The Life and Possible Death of the Mekong Delta

What would Vietnam be without the Mekong Delta?

in Music & Arts

On the Road With One of Vietnam's Last Traveling Cải Lương Troupes

Most Saigoneers know cải lương as a form of television entertainment usually enjoyed by their parents or grandparents, but not many are aware of the art form’s important role in the nightlife of resid...

in Development

Vietnam Plans Can Tho-Ca Mau Expressway to Improve Mekong Delta Traffic

The 130-kilometer-long highway would connect the two Mekong Delta cities by 2025.

in Environment

Cà Mau Announces $820m Plan to Fight Climate Change

Cà Mau is among localities in Vietnam most affected by erosion.

in Environment

Mekong Delta Slammed by Worst Drought, Saltwater Intrusion in Decades

While the Covid-19 pandemic has understandably dominated the news recently, a disaster is unfolding in the Mekong Delta.

Thi Nguyen

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: At Sadec Quan, a Celebration of Mekong Delta Noodles

While bánh tằm is more often regarded as a popular street food dish in the Mekong Delta, my entrance to the world of this dish was family gatherings in Saigon.

in Asia

China to Release Dam Water in Upper Mekong to Aid Droughts

Severe droughts in the Mekong Delta region are being exacerbated by the building and storage of water in dams. 

in Environment

Ben Tre Declares Emergency as Saltwater Intrusion Reaches Alarming Levels

An environmental emergency has been declared in the Mekong Delta province of Ben Tre after local saltwater intrusion reached alarming levels

Khôi Phạm

in Film & TV

Review: Despite Laughable Jump Scares, 'Bắc Kim Thang' Is Surprisingly Smart and Topical

With lush landscapes of the Mekong Delta as the background, Bắc Kim Thang is surprisingly wicked and intelligent, but most importantly, it provides feminist advocates a new way to topple the patriarch...

in Vietnam

Natural Disasters Cause Southern Vietnam $13.6m in Damage in First 9 Months

Vietnam Disaster Management Authority recently revealed worrying statistics on natural disaster damage in the southern part of the country.

in Vietnam

Severe Flooding Drowns Can Tho as Tides Reach Highest Levels in 30 Years

Other Mekong Delta provinces and Saigon are also affected.

Khoi Pham

in Society

Many Homes in Vietnam Lack Toilets. But Thanks to Women, That's Changing.

At daybreak, when crickets croon and Tan Xuan Commune is still awash in darkness, Chung is already awake. “We will support you in getting access to funding,” she chants several times in front of a mir...

in Architecture

[Photos] Blending in With Nature at a Rustic My Tho Coffee Shop

Set at canal-level, the serene coffee shop pays homage to the residents of the Mekong Delta who for centuries have built homes and communities betwixt channels, swamps and lakes.

in Vietnam

[Photos] The Life Semi-Aquatic With 1968 Can Tho

When it comes to old photos of Vietnam, Saigon - as one of the country’s leading tourist destinations in the 1960s - always dominates in terms of volume and variety. That makes this set of photos of C...

Thi Nguyễn

in Food Culture

Bánh Pía: The Dreamy Mooncake Alternative With a Side of Teochew History

From sweet treats such as yam paste, chè bạch quả (ginkgo soup) and bite-size pastries to savory staples such as lotus root soup, bánh củ cải (radish cake), cốn xại (pickles) and xá pấu (salted radish...

in Vietnam

Vietnam's Mekong Delta Might Vanish in 100 Years Due to Subsidence: Experts

Without extreme measures to alleviate subsidence, Vietnam’s Mekong Delta could cease to exist in 100 years’ time, warned experts at a two-day national conference in Can Tho.

in Vietnam

Mekong Delta Faces Severe Waste Treatment Shortage

Provinces throughout the Mekong Delta are struggling to keep up with the increasing amount of garbage created by the region's growing cities.