Composer Hoàng Việt and a Radical Romance Across the North-South Border
In a country fractured by ideology, Hoàng Việt's love for his wife Ngọc Hạnh persisted like a secret melody carried across closed borders by weak radio signals, and letters that had to circle the glob...
Ngõ Nooks: Slurping Thick Noodles and Seafood at Bánh Canh Ghẹ Út Còi
A whiff of the ocean hits you before you even step foot onto the street. In this curious corner between Quang Trung and Nhà Chung, a new form of restaurant exemplifies the vitality and variety of Hano...
Khôi Phạm in Food Culture
From Kuy Teav to Hủ Tiếu: How a Phnom Penh Classic Became Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang
Originally from Cambodia, made popular by Chinese vendors and enjoyed by local diners, hủ tiếu Nam Vang captures the essence of Vietnamese history in one hearty bowl of noodles.
Hẻm Gems: A Long-Anticipated Bowl of D10's Pre-Eminent Mì Vịt Tiềm
Rarely have I gone into a meal with such anticipation.
Paul Christiansen in Travel
The Curious Case of Quy Hoà Leprosy Colony's Park of Busts
A delightfully bizarre place, Quy Nhơn’s Quy Hoà leprosy colony deserves exploration in full, but clustered in a grove of trees on its outskirts in Nhân Ái Park stands a particularly peculiar assembla...
Ngõ Nooks: Nourishment for the Soul at Canh Bún Nguyễn Siêu
Eating canh bún is akin to going for a walk on a clear day as sunset melts over the city; it costs almost nothing yet nourishes the soul.
Khôi Phạm in Travel
Train to Biên Hòa: A Day Trip Into Suburbia From Saigon
When Saigoneer first announced a few weeks ago that Vietnam’s railway network would be the centerpiece of our next themed article series, a number of readers joked in the comment section that who in t...
A Brief History of the Vietnam Railways Building Before Its 110th Birthday
The iconic Bến Thành Market is not the only Saigon landmark that has endured for more than a century. The Vietnam Railways building at 138 Hàm Nghi, given its inauguration in 1914, is pushing the 110-...
Linh Phạm in Trích or Triết
In Xuân Diệu's Tender Poetry, a Reminder to Love Honestly and Courageously
“Tenderly, fondly, Xuân Diệu held on to my wrist, caressing it up and down. Our eyes locked in affection…Xuân Diệu loved me.”
Cá Hồi Hoang to Disband After National Tour Marking 10 Years of Making Music
On the cusp of their current nationwide tour, indie band Cá Hồi Hoang abruptly announced that they would disband after touring finishes.
Another Hoàn Kiếm Turtle Dies in Hanoi, Setting Back Conservation Efforts
It’s reported that a “Hoàn Kiếm turtle” living in Hanoi has died, further impeding efforts by conservationists to keep the species from extinction.
The Rich History Behind One of Hanoi's 2 Remaining Chinese Guild Halls
With the changing gears of history, at times even the oldest layers of a thousand-year-old town must evolve to house new meanings.
Ngõ Nooks: Xóm Hạ Hồi's 30-Year-Old Bún Thang Stands the Test of Time
If you peel through the peaceful residential areas around the Quang Trung and Trần Hưng Đạo crossroads, you might just chance upon Bún Thang 11 Hạ Hồi, a humble, household noodle spot.
Linh Phạm in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks
Ngõ Nooks: Blue Crab and Beer for a Bodacious Snack on the Hanoi Sidewalk
Of all seafood in Vietnam, ghẹ (blue crab) is among the most expensive. Even at wholesale markets, these crustaceans can fetch from VND300,000 to 400,000 a kilogram and any buffet deal that boasts the...
Paul Christiansen in Natural Selection
The Ugly Truth of the Life and Impending Demise of the Hoàn Kiếm Turtle
Everyone knows the mythological story of the Hoàn Kiếm turtle.
Ngõ Nooks: A Blissful Fish Feast at Bún Cá Sâm Cây Si
As hot as it gets, Hanoi’s scorching summer is no match for delightful fish rolls and refreshing sour soup.
Wander Through the Streets of the Old Quarter in 1995 Hanoi
What do you miss most about the 1990s?
Linh Phạm in In Plain Sight
The Unbearable Delight of Watching a Live Football Match at Hàng Đẫy Stadium
“The government sells it for VND100,000. Just give me VND150,000. Gate 3, right in the center.”
Khôi Phạm in Culture
What to See, Taste, and Do If You Have 3 Hours to Kill in Chợ Lớn
One of my favorite parts about being in a new city is dropping by any random neighborhood and just walking around until my feet get sore. Walking affords me the leisurely pace and multi-dimensional fr...
The Story of Quách Đàm, the Man Who Shaped Modern Chợ Lớn — Part 2
By the 1920s, the old Bình Tây Market and much of the surrounding land had belonged to Quách Đàm, so he proposed to the colonial authorities the demolition of the existing building and the constructio...
The Story of Quách Đàm, the Man Who Shaped Modern Chợ Lớn — Part 1
Hải Thượng Lãn Ông Boulevard (the former quai Gaudot) in central Chợ Lớn preserves several elegant old colonial shophouse buildings, but perhaps the most interesting of all is the one at No. 45, once ...
A Day in the Life of Phùng Hưng, a D5 Street With Two Personalities
Nestled in the historic Chợ Lớn section of District 5, Phùng Hưng Street runs from the canal along Võ Văn Kiệt through to Hồng Bàng. Within its length, the street has two distinct personalities.
Khôi Phạm in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: From a Historic D5 Shophouse, An Duyên Serves up Tasty Chợ Lớn Classics
An Duyên Chợ Lớn transcends Chợ Lớn quán stereotypes of rustic mom-and-pops with rickety amenities to provide a comfortable dining experience, made memorable thanks to aesthetically pleasing décor and...
Local Studio's Animated Short Gives Adorable Crash Course on Vietnam's Spiritualism
Putting up offerings on the altar, burning votive money, and lighting incense: these are just some rituals that every Vietnamese is probably familiar with during Tết or even on special occasions. A lo...
Amid a Resort, This Thatched Hut Houses a Zero-Waste Water-Bottling Plant
A humble production hut built with recycled bottles, local timber, thatched roof and simple granito concrete floors is used as a bottling facility for drinking water.
Biên Hòa Cafe Embraces Industrial Design for a Transient Existence
If your dwelling is temporary, how much care do you pay to your surroundings?
Ghosts and Other Myths: How Vietnam Celebrates the 7th Lunar Month
In Vietnamese customs, the lunar month of July contains many special days of worship and celebration, with various traditions.
Vietnamese Indie Game 'Hoa' Wins 3 Awards for Best Art Direction, Music at Webby
The dreamy platformer snagged trophies for Best Art Direction, Best Music/Sound Design, and People’s Voice Best Art Direction at the awards honoring the "Best of the Internet."
Vietnamese Game 'Hoa' Nominated for Best Art Direction, Music in 2022 Webby Awards
If you spent your 2021 lockdown escaping into the wondrous, whimsical world of Hoa, the locally developed video game, now is your chance to show your support for the creators.
Thanh Hóa Announces Mắm Tôm-Drinking Contest to Lure International Tourists
How much mắm tôm can you chug?
In Hòa Bình, a Social Enterprise Supports Vietnam's Last Remaining Paper Artisans
As aid to Vietnamese communities decreases, how do we continue to preserve cultural heritage? Zó Project, an organization based out of Hanoi, offers a compelling example of the role social enterprise ...
[Photos] On the Road in 1965 Quy Nhơn
Imagine Quy Nhon before the arrival of tourism.
5 Localities Aim to Welcome Vaccinated Foreign Tourists From Next Month
Tourism destinations in Vietnam are eager to restart their economies after it appears that the current outbreak is subsiding.
[Photos] On the Road in 1971 Vietnam, From Saigon to Da Nang
This week's collection of old film photos comes from an American service member named Terry Nelson, who covered quite a bit of ground in Vietnam in 1971 and 1972. These shots include colorful depictio...
Khôi Phạm in Tech
Review: Vietnamese Indie Game 'Hoa' Is a Soothing Oasis in the Age of Anxiety
There is an exquisite but hard-to-name feeling that engulfs me every time I finish watching a particularly outstanding movie. It’s a lingering mixture of awe, fulfillment, wistfulness, anguish, contem...
Paul Christiansen in Arts & Culture
[Illustrations] Mesmerizing Modern and Mythic Vietnam Re-Imagined
Chợ Âm Phủ and the Embattled History Behind Hanoi's Book Street
19/12 Street was once a mass burial ground for those who died in the National Resistance against France in 1946. The event shaped the history of the city and the relationship that thrived for 71 years...
Revisit the Legend of Hoàn Kiếm via Stunning Illustrations by Artist Rồng Phạm
At the heart of Hanoi is Hồ Hoàn Kiếm with a legend that has been told countless times.
Thanh Hoa Groom Runs 19km to Bride's House on Wedding Day
If recent developments in Vietnam’s COVID-19 outbreak have dampened your spirit, here’s a wholesome pick-me-up.
Paul Christiansen in Loạt Soạt
Saigoneer Bookshelf: 'A Thousand Times You Lose Your Treasure' Speaks Many Voices
When I first met Hoa Nguyen several years ago in Hanoi, it was her first trip back to Vietnam since she left as a child.
Nha Trang's Whale Worship Festival, as Portrayed in This Stunning Graduation Project
The Cầu Ngư Festival, a whale-worshipping tradition that takes place every February on the lunar calendar, has become a source of inspiration for artist Tường Vân’s graduation and illustration project...
Ngõ Nooks: Sample Creative Coffee and Hide From Life at Chốn Hạ Hồi
Definitely not an easy-to-stumble-upon coffee shop, Chốn is located in a small, deep alley.
Architect Association Urges Hanoi to Preserve Decades-Old Cung Thiếu Nhi
With the commencement of a new youth center in outer Hanoi, many can’t help but wonder about the fate of the existing structure on Ly Thai To Street.
Paul Christiansen in In Plain Sight
A Case for the Coexistence of Convenience Stores and Tạp Hóa
A Woman in Soc Trang Faked Her Own Funeral to Avoid Debt
Trần Thị Tuyến's fraudulent funeral scheme unspooled because her family couldn't keep their stories straight.
Ngõ Nooks: How 2 Brothers From Punjab Spread Their Love for Indian Food
Some names that immediately come to mind when the topic of Indian food is raised are the old favorites, such as Namaste on Tho Nhuom Street or Foodshop 45 in Truc Bach. But have you heard of a small r...
For a Tết Full of Rich Traditions, Head to Saigon's Hoa Community
Up until 2011, I thought that everybody in Saigon had the same Tet every year, with apricot flowers in the living room and bánh chưng or bánh tét on the altar, and family trips to the Nguyen Hue flowe...
Ngõ Nooks: Xóm Hà Hồi's Dill-icious Golden Grilled Cá Lăng
With Hanoi deep in winter’s chill, our bellies crave hearty delights, and there is nothing like frying your own chả cá in the cozy little hamlet of Hà Hồi to ward off the season’s bite.
[Photos] When Bricks Not Only Form a House's Structure but Also Unique Texture
Gardens and bricks allow Bien Hoa's Wall House to fill its lungs. It is essential we have some in our homes. But not all air is equal.
This New Female Cụ Rùa Might Save Its Entire Species From Extinction
Scientists announced that a turtle found in Hanoi's Dong Mo Lake is indeed a Swinhoe’s softshell turtle (Rafetus swinhoei), the critically endangered species Hanoi's famed Hoan Kiem turtle belonged to...
Khôi Phạm in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: Saigon's Hakka Culture Lives in D5's Khổ Qua Cà Ớt
Stuffing food inside other food is an ingenious human invention on par with refrigeration, chopsticks, and Gmail’s “undo” button.
At the Women's Museum in Hanoi, a Celebration of Women at Home and at War
The Vietnamese Women's Museum in Hanoi is a museum with a mission.
Ngõ Nooks: Hidden Gem, the Cafe that Recycled Knick-Knacks Built
It is difficult to describe Hidden Gem Café without paraphrasing its name, but I have not found a better way to characterize this wonderful establishment.
Black Vinegar
Black Vinegar offers a stylish and contemporary dining experience with modern Cantonese seafood cuisine, Vietnamese regional specialties.
Ngõ Nooks: Sonder Cafe, a Home for Whimsical Drinks and Cool Beans
sonder (n): the realization that each random passerby is living a life as vivid and complex as your own.
Saigoneer Podcast: Our Dream Pedestrian Areas; Chilling Stories for Halloween
We're back!
Michael Tatarski in Travel
Saigoneer Getaways: In Pu Luong, a Verdant Dream Untouched by Development
There are many reasons to be grateful for living in Vietnam during the coronavirus pandemic.
[Photos] From the National Geographic Archive, Slices of Life in 1952 Vietnam
Mostly taken by National Geographic photojournalist Joseph Baylor Roberts, these excellent shots are among the best images of 1952 Vietnam that one can encounter.
Paul Christiansen in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: Spice up Your Study Session With a Warm Ginger Coffee at An Miên
”The flower was never meant to survive the fruit's triumph.”
No Pets, No Vendors, No Vulgarities: Hanoi Proposes New Pedestrian Plaza Restrictions
The spacious pedestrian plaza in Hoan Kiem District has become a hot hangout for locals, but with that popularity also comes numerous nuisances.
The Mystical Origins of Saigon's Notorious Octagonal Prison, Khám Chí Hòa
Chi Hoa Prison (Khám Chí Hòa) is a seven-hectare facility located in Saigon's District 10.
Ngõ Nooks: A Stylish Urban Brew at the Effortlessly Hip Cà Thiều
Occupying a few meters of the sidewalk on Pho Nguyen Gia Thieu, a lovely leafy lane in the residential south of the French Quarter, Cà Thiều is nestled at the entrance of a dusty, unassuming apartment...
Hao Si Phuong, Saigon's Century-Old Hẻm, Says No to Photography
Yet another community in Saigon has become disillusioned by internet exposure.
Hanoi Launches Night Tour at Hoa Lo Prison to Attract Domestic Tourists
History buffs from the rest of the country might find the night tour an opportunity to observe the storied historical site from a different perspective.
Hoan Kiem Lake Embankment Undergoes 4-Month Renovation
On Monday, workers began placing 2.5-meter-high concrete blocks around a section of the lake to create a 40-meter embankment.
Unearthed: Tracing the Past Citadels of Southern Vietnam
Although the forces of modernization encourage constant progress and leaving behind the pre-modern past, the trails of yesterday never fail to leave our presence.
Vietnam Moves Forward on New Expressway Linking Bien Hoa, Vung Tau
A new expressway connecting Dong Nai and Ba Ria-Vung Tau is being considered to relieve traffic pressure on existing roads.
Two Vietnam Poems by Hoa Nguyen, Inspired by Saigon Ghost Stories
Vietnam Ghost Story: High School Clock Tower and Vietnam Ghost Story: Towers of District 5
Ngõ Nooks: Loading T Serves up Decadent Egg Coffee in a 1930s Architectural Gem
Travel back in time to a café within a charming 1930s building, only a few hundred meters away from St Joseph’s Cathedral.
Paul Christiansen in Postcards
Saigon Postcard No. 20: Ephemeral Holiday Feelings
Soft lights illuminate Saigon's dark alleys and streets the way holiday cheer brightens the lamentations for another year passing.
Michael Tatarski in Music & Arts
What's Inside the Eclectic Sets of Coracle Music Festival's 2nd Edition?
Perfect weather, a beautiful setting and great acts — what more do you need from a music festival?
Storm Matmo, This Year's 5th, Will Hit Southern, Central Vietnam This Evening
In the next 24 hours, provinces in central Vietnam should expect very heavy rain and subsequent flooding as newly formed tropical storm makes landfall.
Institute of Vietnamese Costumes Officially Opened in Saigon With Discussion on Áo Dài Lemur
Historical fashion enthusiasts might find the newly minted institute a choice destination to explore Vietnam’s past clothing trends.
Chris Humphrey in Postcards
Hanoi Postcard No. 9: The Turtle God of Hồ Gươm
Hanoi's lakes, including Hồ Gươm, are brimming with fish, debris and memories of historical lore.
Paul Christiansen in Postcards
Saigon Postcard No. 16: Rainstorm Inspiration
While the rainy season's flooded streets, soaked satchels and delayed appointments can make one curse its arrival, sometimes when the torrent hits the neon storefronts just so, it becomes a source of ...
Ngõ Nooks: The Deep-Fried Satisfaction of Steamy Bánh Gối
Thanks to being born and bred in Hanoi, I definitely have a love-hate relationship with the city. That said, there are more “loves” than “hates” on my list, and street food in Hanoi plays a huge part ...
Chris Humphrey in Postcards
Hanoi Postcard No. 6: Hoa Sữa by Any Other Name Would Still Smell as Caustic
The fragrance of hoa sữa, or milk flower, is so deeply embedded in the mythology of Hanoi’s autumnal days that singers, poets and authors alike have all sung its praises.
Paul Christiansen in Postcards
