Hanoi's Soviet-Style Khu Gia Binh and Life Amid Vietnam's Growing Pains
Hanoi is often known in Vietnam as the land of a millennium-old civilization, a living archive of past Vietnam life. Each tiny alley within the capital can evoke a strong sense of nostalgia in visitor...
Requiem for a Bàng Tree That Was Cut Down in Front of My Home
Curiosity drove me downstairs into the downpour. Out of the corner of my eye, I spotted the municipal workers — clad in orange-and-green uniforms, their clothes soaked — gathering around a crane. Thei...
A Flight Over Đà Lạt in 1968–1971 Before the Tourism Boom
If you’ve taken a trip to Lâm Đồng within the last few years, these scenes seem like a distant dream of a sparsely populated and verdant Đà Lạt that’s engulfed by nature.
From Cheap Flicks to Local Identity: A Brief History of Vietnamese Horror Films
Horror films have been a part of Vietnamese cinema for a long time, since the heyday of the country’s film industry. But the genre's journey has been challenging. For one, its track record includes ma...
Paul Christiansen in In Plain Sight
To Appreciate Tao Đàn More, Study the Park's Past, Present, and Future
Shallow shrub and fern roots tussle to send shoots, tendrils and stalks up and outwards, sprawling across uneven ground and grasping at patches of light. A musky, funky, fetid soil stink emanates from...
With Unchecked Destruction, Saigon's Heritage Shophouse Architecture Is in Danger
The colonial shophouse, one of Saigon’s most iconic forms of architecture, is in imminent danger of extinction.
Saigon's Next Top 5 Congested Streets Are Announced. Here Are the Winners.
Local streets are buckling under the pressure of Saigon's ever-increasing population density, here are the city's most frequently jammed roads, according to the municipal Department of Transportation....
Into Saigon's Charming Hidden Third Spaces in the Shade of Bridges
Third place (noun): A space outside of one's home and workplace, where people meet and interact socially.
Century-Old Historic Villa in Đồng Nai Faces Demolition Due to Road Project
It’s yet another case of new infrastructure versus old heritage building — one of Vietnam’s most common urban planning clashes in recent years.
A New Company Headquarters Brings a Green Respite to Industrial Đồng Nai
Hammocks, koi ponds and mature trees are not typically associated with industrial parks.
New Renderings Show Saigon's Plans to Revamp Quách Thị Trang Square
At an estimated cost of VND157 billion (US$6.17 million), the controversial renovation work on the square in front of Bến Thành Market is set to begin this fall and be completed by April 2025.
Paul Christiansen in Music & Arts
Get to Know the Dynamic Local Art Scene Alongside 'Saigon Art Journey'
“This is not a tour, remove that word from your minds. This is an interacting and exploring journey,” explained Angeline Gong, an experienced art host known by Saigon’s artists and galleries as Z-Gong...
Paul Christiansen in Environment
Charting the Flow of the Nhiêu Lộc Canal From Start to Historical Start
When I fall in love with an album, I seek out the artist's first mixtapes and demos. When I come to admire a poet, I hunt down their early poems and chapbooks. I even linger over the old highlight ree...
In Remembrance of Saigon Street Calls Past
Drowned out by the noises of modernization, sounds that once served as the background to a simpler time have begun to shrink, and eventually become lost in the wheel of progress. Tiếng rao, or street ...
As Infrastructure Lags Behind, Saigon's Poorest Hardest Hit by Worsening Flooding
In April this year, in the first downpour of southern Vietnam’s rainy season, the narrow rented room where Mã Thị Diệp and her children were staying in Hồ Chí Minh City was inundated by knee-high wate...
How Richie Fawcett's Saigon Sketches Illuminate a Decade of Change
It’s been hidden right there in the heart of Saigon for over half a decade.
In Gò Vấp, a 'Floating Temple' Stands the Test of Time and River Currents
On an isle amid the Vàm Thuật river in Gò Vấp District, Phù Châu Temple, colloquially known among locals as the “floating temple,” has welcomed religious practitioners looking for a serene quarter in ...
Ở đó ở đây Sài Gòn — A Love-Hate Letter to the Maze of Paradoxes
Editor's note: Adrien Jean is a Saigon-based photographer and a frequent contributor to Saigoneer's Darkroom series. His photos often depict the precise moments in time when the visual elements of our...
Saigon's Metro Line 1 Went on Its First Test Run Last Week
Last week, the Saigon Metro project took a major step in realizing many Saigoneers’ long-awaited dream of experiencing their own urban railway line.
What to See in a Landlocked Country? How a Detour to Laos Made My Heart Feel Full.
Editor's note: This essay by Alex Tran won 1st place in the Editor's Choice category of Saigoneer's first-ever essay writing competition, "2 Years of Memories," in collaboration with Urbanist Travel. ...
All by Myself in Sapa: How I Learnt That Traveling Alone Doesn't Have to Be Lonely
One item on my “bucket list” is a journey to discover an exciting new land on a solo trip. It’s not a simple aspiration so I didn’t think that I would get a chance to accomplish it any time soon, but ...
Brise-Soleil, Đá Rửa, and Other Modernist Curios to Befriend on a Walk Across Saigon
My non-existent architectural background leaves me unable to do anything beyond expressing a distaste for tacky constructions and a vague idea of what constitutes a well-designed building. I can speak...
Introducing the '2 Years of Memories' Travel Writing Competition
To celebrate the 2nd anniversary of Urbanist Travel, we are excited to invite you to participate in Saigoneer’s first-ever writing competition, “2 Years of Memories,” to look back at the most historic...
Meet Urbanist Travel, Saigoneer's Sister Company Bringing the World Closer to Vietnam
Loyal readers might know Saigoneer as a home where all things fascinating, whimsical and insightful about Vietnam are celebrated, but not many are aware that for the past years, we have been a tiny bi...
Paul Christiansen in Culture
Need a Sign From the Universe? Lương Hữu Khánh Street Has Every Color, Shape, and Size.
Saigon is filled with addresses you aren’t looking for, announcements not aimed at you and signs for businesses you have no plans to frequent. Sign street demands delving into the oft-ignored.
Huế Announces Plan to Transform Hồ Thủy Tiên Waterpark Into Public Space
Authorities are planning to turn the long-abandoned Hồ Thủy Tiên Waterpark into a public space with the construction of a walking path, lighting, drainage system and water supply.
Hanoi Starts Revoking Operating Licenses of Cafes on 'Train Street' This Week
Hanoi is shutting down its infamous "Train Street" starting this weekend.
Hanoi Is Not Building Dragon-Inspired Longest Structure in the World, Official Says
A 700,000-square-meter dragon-shaped building will remain a futuristic fantasy in the capital's Tây Hồ area, but it might be fun to indulge in its flashy design for a moment. The structure, meant...
Linh Pham in Culture
Banana Island Is a Peaceful Oasis Amid Hanoi, but for How Much Longer?
As the xe ôm is about to reach the halfway point of Long Biên Bridge, I tell him to stop.
Without State Subsidies, Hanoi Metro Records $2.3m in Losses in 2021
Pre-subsidies, Vietnam's first operational metro route — Hanoi's Cát Linh-Hà Đông Metro Line — recorded VND54 billion (US$2.32 million) in losses in 2021.
Saigon Plans to Add 10ha of Public Parks by End of 2022
The additional parks are part of a goal to have 3–4 square meters of green space per Saigon resident by 2030.
At Thủ Thiêm 2 Bridge's Launch, Exuberance and Selfies Galore
After seven years under construction, the Thủ Thiêm 2 Bridge officially opened for traffic at 5pm, April 28. This was a much-anticipated project for Saigoneers, with over VND3.1 trillion in investment...
Hanoi Envisions 6 More Metro Lines for City Center by 2050
Earlier this week, Hanoi unveiled a general plan for the underground development of the city center which includes adding six metro lines and 81 underground stations.
5 Biggest Cities Told to Restrict Motorbikes From 2030
Will motorbikes in downtown Saigon be a thing of the past in eight years?
Hanoi Demolishes Colonial-Era Factory to Make Room for Office Complex
A French-built factory at 61 Trần Phú, Hanoi is being destroyed to make way for a multi-purpose building.
Photography Project Shows Hanoi Through the Eyes of Migrant Workers
Some came from the mountains, some were born near the sea — all have come to Hanoi to make a living. They are the migrant workers of this city, yet to them Hanoi is more than just a place to work. Thr...
Enormous 'City Within a City' Planned for An Phú, Thủ Đức City
It will feature a wide range of building styles and features.
After Years of Delay, Operating Company of Saigon's 1st Metro Line Is Broke
Years of delay, which has been further compounded by the extended pandemic, have depleted the funding for Saigon Metro's operator.
Tản Mạn Kiến Trúc Propels the Architecture Discourse Into the Age of Social Media
Architecture Excursions - Tản Mạn Kiến Trúc is a grassroots media project founded by a group of young Vietnamese who share a simple goal: to shed light on Vietnam’s vast and often undiscussed architec...
Saigon's Infamous 'Ghost Tower' Has a New Developer
Saigon's most notorious ghost tower appears to have a new lease on life.
Hanoi Looks Into Banning Motorcycles in City Center From 2025
Authorities are researching a plan to ban motorcycles in the city center from 2025 onward.
[Photos] Dilapidated and Abandoned, Hồ Tây's 'Floating Castles' Are Finally Dismantled
After almost five years of rotting in abandonment, a few of the cruise boats on West Lake are finally being dismantled.
Felled Heritage Trees on Nguyen Binh Khiem Cause Outrage Among Saigoneers
Over the weekend, some Saigoneers were shocked to see images surfacing online showing city maintenance workers chopping down heritage trees along Nguyen Binh Khiem Street.
Hanoi to Name 2 New Streets After Literary Couple Lưu Quang Vũ-Xuân Quỳnh
The Hanoi People’s Council has proposed naming two streets in Cầu Giấy District after Lưu Quang Vũ and Xuân Quỳnh, two of the most prominent poets in Vietnam's literary world.
In 'Hà Nội Bị Say Cà Phê,' a Tribute to the House Dancers of Lenin Park
Although house dance has its origin in nightclubs, the members of House Dance Hanoi (HDH) community don’t necessarily need to go to clubs to dance.
Can Street Art Help Restore One of Hanoi's Poorest Communities?
Can street art lead to urban restoration? Or is it wilful gentrification? In February 2020, the Phuc Tan Public Art Project officially opened — the work on display offers engaging art and stirs up int...
How Vietnam's Street Artists Have Made a Global Medium Their Own
Graffiti, street art, urban art…living in Paris before settling in Vietnam, they were part of my daily life and wonder. Riding the metro, graffiti is everywhere along the way. Wandering around the Fre...
Hanoi to Spend VND500bn in New Plan to Renovate Old Apartment Buildings
Between 2021 and 2025, Hanoi plans to spend VND500 billion (US$28.1 million) on inspecting and assessing the quality of old apartment buildings in the city.
Missing Saigon? Live Vicariously Through These Tender Illustrations by a Filipino Artist.
Having lived and worked in Saigon for two and a half years, Daniel Ansel Tingcungco, a Filipino artist, created a collection of paintings illustrating 100 beloved views of the city. The project, title...
[Photos] In Quang Ninh, a Dilapidated Park Receives New Lease on Life
The 1990s Quang Ninh Park was nearly abandoned in need of a revamp to attract local exercisers and loafers alike.
Saigon Artist Đoàn Quốc Takes Watercolor Paintings to Whole New Heights
As one of the few Vietnamese nationals to have been granted the title of International Watercolor Master, young artist Đoàn Quốc is constantly pushing the frontiers of his creativity to paint a new pa...
Saigoneer Podcast: Recreation; Sustainable Trends in Hanoi and Saigon
A new Saigoneer Podcast is available now!
Paul Christiansen in In Plain Sight
A Case for the Coexistence of Convenience Stores and Tạp Hóa
Hanoi Overtakes Saigon as Vietnam's Most Expensive City, Statistics Office Says
Hanoi's cost of living is currently the highest in Vietnam.
[Photos] A Stroll Through Eclectic Chợ Lớn
Until fairly recently, Chợ Lớn was its own city, long inhabited by người Hoa who carved out an economic hub along the banks of the Saigon River over 200 years ago.
To Teach Children the Importance of Play, First Bring Playgrounds Back to Hanoi
In rapidly developing urban Hanoi, finding engaging outdoor play areas for young children is near impossible. But since 2014, the social enterprise Think Playgrounds has colored public spaces across V...
[Images] Here's What Hồ Con Rùa Might Look Like as a Pedestrian Area
Extended sheltered walkways, public seats, flowerbeds, and more — here are some new features of the plan to revamp Turtle Lake into a pedestrian-friendly neighborhood.
How Much Would a Trip on Saigon's Future Metro Line 1 Cost?
With a train ticketing system that’s a decade old, riders on Saigon’s Metro Line 1 might face inconvenience even before even setting foot on the subway.
Saigon's Metro Line 2 Acquires 70% of Land Needed for Construction
Construction on the Ben Thanh-Tham Luong metro line is expected to commence in 2021.
81% of Saigoneers Plan to Use Metro Line 1 When It's Finished, Survey Shows
Do you plan to use the metro lines in these cities?
The Mystical Origins of Saigon's Notorious Octagonal Prison, Khám Chí Hòa
Chi Hoa Prison (Khám Chí Hòa) is a seven-hectare facility located in Saigon's District 10.
Hanoi Gears up to Start Building Metro Line 5 in 2022
The proposed route would cover 39 kilometers.
Saigoneer Podcast: Urbanist Vietnam's Launch; Áo Dài's Place in Modern Society
The podcast is back!
From Window to Logo
Designing the “perfect” logo is a winding road littered with failed fonts, well-intended but misguided icons, and superfluous design elements — necessary artifacts that serve to catalog the arrival at...
Plans to Build Hotel Complex on Da Lat's Đồi Dinh Opposed by Experts
Da Lat authorities are moving forward with a master plan to redesign the city’s central area, but the project has been controversial from the start.
Saigon Commences Training Course for 58 Future Metro Train Drivers
Progress on Saigon's Metro Line 1 is moving into the human resources and training phase.
Saigon Announces Large Natural Eco Park for Thu Thiem
Will this major green space project come to fruition in Thu Thiem?
New Renderings Show Expanse of Ben Thanh Metro Interchange, Plaza
A new set of renderings conjures up a future in which Ben Thanh Station is a both a transportation and commercial hub for city dwellers.
Paul Christiansen in Postcards
Saigon Postcard No. 24: A Slice of New Saigon
Saigon is a cake with many bakers.
Hanoi Officials Reject $50m Request From Chinese Metro Contractor
Hanoi officials have refused to pay the Chinese metro contractors their demand of US$50 million in advance to perform a test run on the Cat Linh-Ha Dong line in Hanoi.
Hanoi's Metro Line 3 Faces Delay Due to Site Clearance Hold-Up
The above-ground section of Hanoi’s Metro Line 3 (Nhon-Hanoi Train Station) is essentially finished, though some site clearance issues might drag out the completion date.
[Photos] Tracing Hanoi's Contrast Between Neon and Shadow, Old and New
What is beneath the capital's skin?
Trains for Saigon’s First Metro Line Undergo Final Testing in Japan
On April 11, Saigon’s Urban Railway Management Board announced that the trains ordered to serve the city’s first metro line had begun their final technical inspections in Japan.
Inside Saigon's Grassroots Carton and Aluminum Recycling Plants
With plastics claiming many of the headlines worldwide and constituting a major issue in Vietnam, scant attention is being paid to other recyclable materials, namely cardboard and aluminum.
[Photos] In Yangon's Forsaken Amusement Park, Nature Finds Home in Decrepit Artifacts
Yangon Amusement Park was built in 1997 by the former military junta as a flashy distraction from their violent dictatorship.
Opera House Metro Station Expected to Open for Public Visits by April 30
Work on the Opera House station of the Ben Thanh-Suoi Tien line has gone into overdrive.
Saigon Metro Line 1 Is 71% Complete; First Train to Be Delivered in June 2020
The Ben Thanh-Suoi Tien Metro Line is now 71% complete, its management board says.
Paul Christiansen in In Plain Sight
