Saigon's Next Top 5 Congested Streets Are Announced. Here Are the Winners.
Local streets are buckling under the pressure of Saigon's ever-increasing population density, here are the city's most frequently jammed roads, according to the municipal Department of Transportation....
Reminiscing About the Last Days of Downtown Saigon’s Pigeon Coop
The first time I pay a visit to the Pasteur pigeon coop, Lê Văn Âu assures me the place is probably not going anywhere.
Hẻm Gems: A Long-Anticipated Bowl of D10's Pre-Eminent Mì Vịt Tiềm
Rarely have I gone into a meal with such anticipation.
Hẻm Gems: Mơ Đi Hội, When Florists Dream of Opening a Cafe
When book lovers open a café, we are blessed with book cafes; when animal lovers open a café, we are given a myriad of animal cafes; what happens when florists open a café? This is the case of Mơ Đi H...
Hẻm Gems: The Ghé Coffee Tucks Art, Fragrant Coffee Into a Quiet D1 Crevice
Delivering premium origin coffee and fine art from artists across Vietnam in a tiny room that dates back to French colonial times, smack dab in the middle of District 1, The Ghé Coffee balances the fi...
Paul Christiansen in Architecture
The Pedestrian Bridge That Teaches You the Values of Patience
“We need the sweet pain of anticipation to tell us we are really alive.”
Hẻm Gems: At Sakaba Sasuke Izakaya, Happiness Is Wrapped in Pork Belly and Grilled
It took a few visits before I noticed that the music at Sakaba Sasuke was always the same.
Hẻm Gems: Tokyo Moon Cafe Introduces Homey Korean Flavors to Japan Town
Stepping into Tokyo Moon is like venturing into a world of wonders, neatly packed within a mere 35-square-meter space.
Paul Christiansen in In Plain Sight
On a Boat Ride Through Nhiêu Lộc Canal, a Fish's-Eye View of Saigon
Could your life in Saigon be made into a quirky indie film?
Paul Christiansen in Saigon
The Nhiêu Lộc-Thị Nghè Canal's Comeback Story
Water has no hometown.
Hẻm Gems: Come up, We're Watching Old Movies on the Neighbor's Wall
“Thank you for contacting Khôngtrung.bar. Our business hours are 6pm to 1am, Monday to Sunday. Open doors. Cocktails, craft beer, outdoor screening — Thursday and Sunday. Thank you and we hope to bump...
Hẻm Gems: Hủ Tíu Mực Ông Già's Squid Game Is to Die For
It’s safe to say that one of the most authentic culinary experiences one could have in Vietnam is to sit on a stool, in an eatery that feels very much like someone’s house, and slurp on a bowl of pipi...
Hẻm Gems: Reading Cabin Sells Stationery, Serves Drinks, and Builds Friendships
If I had to describe Reading Cabin in one phrase, it would be “every cafe in Saigon all at once.”
Paul Christiansen in Saigon
Did You Know That There's a Mummy on Nguyễn Bỉnh Khiêm Boulevard?
Why is there a mummy on display in Saigon?
Hẻm Gems: Wake up Early, We're Getting Hủ Tiếu Cá for Breakfast
When I used to live in Hanoi, I always knew that if an eatery only opens for half a day, the food is probably certified, at least by the locals, to be not only good, but excellent. There is something ...
Hẻm Gems: Bánh Đa Cua Hải Phòng, a Rare Northern Treat in D10
On the way to Phú Thọ Indoor Sports Stadium in District 11, make a turn off 666/74 Ba Tháng Hai, go all the way to the far corner, and you’ll discover Triển Chiêu Quán’s bright yellow sign. Park under...
Hẻm Gems: Milo Dầm Is Decadence, Childhood and Street Culture in a Spoon
Growing up in Saigon before the surge of foreign dessert trends like milk tea, cheese tarts, and bingsu, the humble and affordable Milo powder found in almost every grocery store and street vendor was...
A Brief History of Cung Văn Hóa Lao Động and Saigon's First Swimming Pool
Once a fashionable rendezvous for the elite of colonial society, the Labour Culture Palace (Cung Văn hoá Lao động) at 55B Nguyễn Thị Minh Khai is today one of Hồ Chí Minh City’s most popular spor...
Hẻm Gems: In a Saigon Hẻm Lives a House for Rare Regional Delights
One fine day a few months ago, I embarked on a search for the flavors of faraway lands across Vietnam, all of which are present in a hẻm in the middle of Saigon.
Society Cafe's Cơm Xá Xíu Fine-Tunes a Cantonese Classic With New Techniques
Inspired by a Cantonese classic, Society Cafe & Dining’s char siu pork is carefully seasoned and prepared over two days, while the accompanying daikon and radish were pickled from scratch. Put togethe...
At Culinary Frank's Cozy Saigon Cafe, YouTube Food Comes to Life on the Plate
“Every restaurant is a miniature society,” says Phương Phạm (Frank Phạm), a Melbourne-based Vietnamese chef and famous YouTube food blogger who recently returned to Saigon to open his passion project,...
Plan to Put Canopy Over Treeless Lê Lợi Pavement Sparks Debate
Late last week, the Ho Chi Minh City Department of Planning and Architecture unveiled a proposal to install canopies across Lê Lợi Boulevard’s pavement.
Khôi Phạm in Culture
What to See, Taste, and Do If You Have a Free Morning in Tân Định
There’s not much you’ll need to do to persuade me to drive, walk, crawl, scuttle or skate along the Nhiêu Lộc-Thị Nghè Canal — I adore its shaded, tree-lined pavements that much.
Paul Christiansen in Saigon
Vignette: For Cafe 81 and the '404 Not Found' Places of Our Lives
We all have them.
Paul Christiansen in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: Cà Phê Sữa and Cơm Tấm With a Side of Espionage History
Kimchi is not a common cơm tấm accouterment. The extra helping of chili pepper heat, palate-cleansing bitterness and cabbage leaf crunch doesn't taste out of place beside a fully loaded plate of broke...
Tân Định Market, D1's Nearly 100-Year-Old Trading Hub
Originally known as the marché de Phu-Hoa, Tân Định Market at 1 Nguyễn Hữu Cầu in District 1 is one of the city’s most historic markets, but it was the opening of the stylish French market building of...
How Nhà Thờ Tân Định, Saigon's Iconic Pink Church, Came to Be
You just have to mention the “pink church” and everyone knows which one you mean. But few are aware that the building in question — Tân Định Church — is one of Saigon’s oldest and most important Roman...
A Brief History of District 1's Collège d’Adran, Saigon's Oldest School
Driving past the Saigon Zoological and Botanical Garden toward Nguyễn Hữu Cảnh Street, many of us might not notice the presence of Võ Trường Toản Secondary School and Trưng Vương High School. The two ...
Khôi Phạm in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Saigoneer's Picks of Saigon's 5 Best Cafes to Poop At
What brings you to coffee shops? Novelty beverages, mellow playlists, a feeling of home, proximity, or just simply convenience — all are valid attributes that have endeared me to many of my favorite c...
It's (Almost) Always Sunny in Saigon: A Glimpse Into Street Fashion in the Early 1970s
You can deduce a lot from a photo.
Khôi Phạm in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: Bún Bò Đà Nẵng Will Change How You Feel About Bún Bò in Saigon
Have you ever wondered who named our food? Oftentimes I do, and I daydream of traveling back in time to those monumental moments in the past when a famous dish or ingredient earned its title to slap s...
Paul Christiansen in Culture
Need a Sign From the Universe? Lương Hữu Khánh Street Has Every Color, Shape, and Size.
Saigon is filled with addresses you aren’t looking for, announcements not aimed at you and signs for businesses you have no plans to frequent. Sign street demands delving into the oft-ignored.
Khôi Phạm in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: Indonesia's Ayam Penyet Is a Smashing Celebration of Spices
The most straightforward definition by which to explain ayam penyet to the Vietnamese layperson is perhaps “cơm gà Indo.” It’s technically not wrong: the dish has rice and chicken, and originates from...
[Photos] Amble in Downtown Saigon via These Street Photography Shots in 1962
In this collection of old film photos from 1962 taken by an unknown photographer, perhaps the most eye-catching feature is the fashion. Saigon men appear in simple attire of white shirts and pants, bu...
Hẻm Gems: Hide From the Monsoon Rain at Đặng Thị Nhu's Lost & Found Cafe
Lost & Found Café is a newly opened sister establishment to the popular Lost & Found Bar. Both adopt a pre-1975 Saigon vibe that I, as a Gen-Z Saigoneer who is nostalgic for old Saigon, immediate...
Khôi Phạm in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: 60 Years of Guangdong-Style Chinese Food at Chợ Cũ's Chuyên Ký
Besides being the “it” place to obtain imported goods, Saigon’s chợ cũ, or Old Market, is also a treasure trove of hidden eateries.
Facing Another Removal Plan, Will Chợ Cũ Tôn Thất Đạm Survive 2022?
After years of existing on paper, Saigon authorities’ plan to remove chợ cũ might become a reality this year.
Khôi Phạm in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: The Dream of the 2010s Is Alive at Pacey Cupcakes
Pick your favorite cupcake flavor; perhaps a pitcher of hot fragrant tea too. Ascend the dizzyingly steep flight of stairs. Mind your head. Tread gently on the wooden attic floor. There your friends a...
Hẻm Gems: Tân Định's Tried-and-True Bánh Canh Cua for a Late Breakfast
Bánh canh, at times described as Vietnamese udon or even “mouse-tail noodles,” is a great mystery on its own. Etymologically speaking, bánh canh translates to “soup-cake,” and these thick, cylindrical...
Saigon to Renovate Bến Thành Market, Replace Metal Roof With Tiles
The 110-year-old market will receive a new tiled roof, as well as infrastructure and gate upgrades.
Khoi Pham in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: Curry Shika and 12 Years of Making Memories in Saigon
Unlike a normal human, there is a chance that my body is not 70% water, but 70% curry; and a good 50% of that might actually be Japanese curry.
Saigon's Infamous 'Ghost Tower' Has a New Developer
Saigon's most notorious ghost tower appears to have a new lease on life.
Felled Heritage Trees on Nguyen Binh Khiem Cause Outrage Among Saigoneers
Over the weekend, some Saigoneers were shocked to see images surfacing online showing city maintenance workers chopping down heritage trees along Nguyen Binh Khiem Street.
An Early View of a Barely Developed Saigon in the 1860s
Dropping a modern Saigoneer into the 1860s version of the city would be a wildly disorienting experience.
The Neo-Baroque Opulence of the Norodom Palace in the 1920s
Few people remember seeing with their own eyes the facade of the building at the site of the former Independence Palace, let alone its interior.
Sài Gòn Ơi, Let's Meet for Cà Phê Once the Pandemic Is Over
For various reasons, some city activities that I’ve long shunned are now replaying in my mind like footage of an old home video during these days of working from home.
D1 Proposes VND32.5bn Revamp Project of Me Linh Square Park
The VND32.5 billion (US$1.4 million) effort will focus on repairing the Trần Hưng Đạo Statue, planting ornamental trees and performing road repairs.
Saigon Approves Removal of 178 Trees for Bach Dang Wharf Renovation Project
They were nice while they lasted.
Khoi Pham in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: A Nasi Lemak in Saigon That Evokes Memories of Hawker Centers
As I gaze at the glorious eight-dish Malaysian banquet on our table at Makiucha, perfectly spaced by our photographer, popping with colors and wafting off aromas of rich spices, it becomes apparent to...
How Saigon's V.A.R Building Epitomizes Vietnam's Architectural Autonomy
Completed in 1973, the V.A.R building at 9 Ho Tung Mau Street in Nguyen Thai Binh Ward, District 1, is a prominent example of Vietnamese mid-20th-century modernist architecture designed by architect L...
Hẻm Gems: Xôi Khâu Nhục, the Cantonese Breakfast for Pork Belly Lovers
I first found out about khâu nhục where I find all my Saigon information: Facebook.
Historic Gate of Saigon Children's Hospital Destroyed by Car Collision
The Children’s Hospital 2 is one of Saigon’s oldest medical facilities, dating back to the 19th century.
Hẻm Gems: The Oldest Hủ Tiếu Bò Viên in Town
With only three dishes on the menu, this hủ tiếu spot has been running for more than five decades.
[Photos] Fly Over Vietnam in the 1930s via These Rare Black-and-White Shots
What if you had a time machine and traveled 90 years into the past with a drone?
Metro Contractor to Restore Le Loi Boulevard's Surface This Year
Will Saigoneers see the return of Le Loi Boulevard this year?
Cột Cờ Thủ Ngữ: Overlooked Saigon Landmark Gets a Makeover
Flanked by a busy road and overshadowed by an unfinished skyscraper, you'd be forgiven if you rarely noticed the Signal Mast (Cột cờ Thủ Ngữ) where Ton Duc Thang and Vo Van Kiet streets intermingle.&n...
In Saigon, a Movie Studio Becomes the New Home for Vietnam's Basketball 'Bubble'
A tight game heading towards halftime in Ho Chi Minh City. The crowd bashing thundersticks to egg on the competitors. And then a chant breaks out: “Let’s go Hanoi.”
Saigon Wants to Expand Pedestrian-Only Zone to 5 More Streets in D1
Saigon might create more pedestrian zones in the city in the future.
Michael Tatarski in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: The Case of the Twin Bánh Mì Chảo Switcheroo
In the land of copycat businesses, it always pays to double-check that you're at the right one.
Saigoneer Podcast: Diacritics in English Writing; the Da Nang Covid-19 Outbreak
The podcast is back after taking a few weeks off!
Khoi Pham in Saigon
[Photos] Inside a Ben Thanh Devoid of Tourists, Forlorn Kiosks and Mass Closures
Plump mangosteens, cheap iPhở shirts, freshly ground coffee, and paper cut-outs of city landmarks — there was a time when the northern gate of Ben Thanh Market was lined door-to-door with dynamic shop...
New Renderings Show Expanse of Ben Thanh Metro Interchange, Plaza
A new set of renderings conjures up a future in which Ben Thanh Station is a both a transportation and commercial hub for city dwellers.
Paul Christiansen in Postcards
Saigon Postcard No. 24: A Slice of New Saigon
Saigon is a cake with many bakers.
Khoi Pham in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: Lower Your Voice, the Hidden Elephant Is Reading
In Saigon’s indie cafe scene, there are household names and well-kept secrets; and then there are secrets that one might think are well-kept, but are actually household names.
Saigon Begins Redesigning Park Project in Front of Opera House
When complete, the 1,300-square-meter area will feature trees, vegetation, grass and pathways for communal use.
[Photos] The Joy and Heady Rush of Getting Caught in Saigon's Off-Season Rain
Right in the middle of the sweat-drenched, sun-singed, punishing April heat, Saigon welcomes the season’s rare showers with open arms.
Thi Nguyen in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gem: Bún Cá Sứa With a Stock That Tastes Like the Ocean
A friend once told me that Saigon is a place that makes you feel like you can travel anywhere.
Inside Nhật Tảo Market, Saigon's Biggest Informal Recycling Center
The areas around Nhat Tao Market, spanning the border of District 10 and District 11, are well-known for their bustling economy of second-hand electronics and machines.
Hẻm Gems: Hiding From Influencers in an Old-School Saigon Cafe
"Saigon in its golden age was a time to be remembered and passed down to younger generations. The vintage aesthetic trend in Vietnam has been around for a couple of years now and for me, it is a cause...
[Video] In Remembrance of a Green Ton Duc Thang Past
October 2017 spelled the death of Ton Duc Thang Street in spirit after Saigon maintenance workers started slaying its trees to make way for bridge construction.
Michael Tatarski in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: A Direct Flight to Taiwan Through Your Taste Buds
One of the great benefits Vietnam's budget airline boom is the ease with which Saigoneers can now travel directly to wonderful destinations like Japan and South Korea without breaking the bank.
[Photos] 10 Remarkable Black-and-White Shots of Saigon in 1967
Lush bunches of fresh bananas at a market, a street-side merchant selling embroidered artworks to tourists, and Buddhist worshipers praying at a local temple — these Saigon scenes are rather mundane b...
Michael Tatarski in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: Set an Alarm, We're Waking up Early for Dim Sum in D11
According to historical legend, dim sum was created along the ancient Silk Road as a snack for weary travelers to enjoy with their tea while resting. On this day, I felt like I had traversed that fabl...
Hẻm Gems: Inside Le Thanh Ton's Japan Town Lives Saigon's Best Katsu
Inside the unofficial Japanese quarter of Saigon lies scrumptious katsu and oyakodon to suit all palates. For beginners like myself at one point in time, the existence of Fujiro can swing open many ne...
Khoi Pham in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: An Authentic Hai Phong Bánh Đa Cua Right in the Heart of D1
I am a fervent champion of all things noodles.
Hẻm Gems: Cozy Autumn Flavors at Tokyo Moon, Japan Town's Korean Cafe
Tokyo Moon's presence is an odd-but-welcoming representation of South Korean hospitality in the heart of Le Thanh Ton's "Japan Town" with its mysterious herbal tonic, sweet potato pastry and pumpkin c...
Date With the Wrecking Ball: The Former Secretariat du Gouvernement Building, 59-61 Ly Tu Trong
The project to build a new City Administration Centre behind the Ho Chi Minh City People’s Committee involves the destruction of several heritage buildings. The art deco office and apartment block at ...
Khoi Pham in Saigon Hẻm Gems
