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in Dishcovery

A Culinary Celebration of the Watermelon That Would Make Mai An Tiêm Proud

I never imagined there could be more than one way to eat a watermelon. Yet here it was, transformed beyond recognition, via a bold experiment and a deeply personal story, challenging everything I thou...

Uyên Đỗ

in Society

On Grappling With Our Complicated Bond With Single-Use Raincoats

Like many Vietnamese, I have owned more crumpled raincoats than I can count. They're the disposable kind, cinched with a few rubber bands, folded into a misshapen rectangle, then stuffed unceremonious...

Elise Lương

in Architecture

To Teach Children the Importance of Play, First Bring Playgrounds Back to Hanoi

In rapidly developing urban Hanoi, finding engaging outdoor play areas for young children is near impossible. But since 2014, the social enterprise Think Playgrounds has colored public spaces across V...

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Bánh Canh Nam Phổ, Huế's Hearty, Homey Afternoon Snack

There’s a commonly acknowledged nugget of folk wisdom amongst foodies that hole-in-the-wall eateries almost always have the best food. In the context of Vietnam’s street food landscape, this concept c...

Paul Christiansen

in Dishcovery

After Coconut and Salt, Is Peanut Butter Coffee Saigon's Next Drink Trend?

After egg coffee, coconut coffee, and salt coffee, is the next coffee trend going to be peanut butter coffee?

in Education

BVIS - A Leading International School with a Difference

What defines the British Vietnamese International School Ho Chi Minh City (BVIS)?

Paul Christiansen

in Travel

In Hội An’s Pottery Museum, Mini Clay Landmarks Hold Unexpected Memories

When preparing to visit Hội An’s Thanh Hà Pottery Museum, I didn’t anticipate an opportunity to reminisce. I hadn’t been to the museum dedicated to the region’s pottery traditions before, so how could...

in Eat & Drink

ONVIT’s Warm Light: A Korean Culinary Journey Through Vietnamese Terroir

Hanoi’s fine dining landscape has long been shaped by European and Japanese influences. But in August 2025,  ONVIT, the first Korean fine dining restaurant in Vietnam, opened inside the Grand Pla...

in Eat & Drink Partner

LAVA: From Ocean’s Bounty to Fire’s Embrace

Amid the tropical beauty of Phú Quốc, where sunsets melt into shades of gold over the sea, a dining destination awaits that is as much about architecture and storytelling as it is about cuisine.

in Arts & Culture

Vietnam’s Design Talents on Display at Gallery Medium’s Three Weeks of Design

When does a piece of functional design become art and vice versa? Gazing long enough at a hook on the wall, noticing its graceful curves, bright colors, and simple flourishes in shape, will have you u...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Legendary Miến Trộn That Feeds Saigon's Architecture Students

Upon finding out that I’m a student at the University of Architecture HCMC, people tend to bombard me with a barrage of questions: if my coursework is tiring, if my school fees are skyhigh, and what m...

Chris Humphrey

in Travel

The Poetry of Everyday Life in Central Vietnam's Coastal Towns

Traveling south through central Vietnam by train can bring you to the familiar or the obscure: the Disney-fication of Hội An, the peaceful bays of Quy Nhơn, or the thrill of derelict spaces in Huế.

in Vietnam

New 12,000-Year-Old Skeleton Breaks Record of Oldest Human Remains Found in Vietnam

After analysis, scientists believe that a 12,000-year-old set of human remains found in Ninh Bình belonged to a prehistoric man who died from infection after being struck by a quartz-tipped projectile...

in Hotels

Neighborhood Vibes and Modern Comforts Combine at Hotel Indigo Saigon The City

Staying in a local neighborhood means surrounding yourself with the sights, styles, routines, traditions, and history of a locale. Hotel Indigo Saigon The City, a new boutique lifestyle hotel, tells t...

in Parks & Rec

How a Dance Project Is Reframing Deaf Identity in Saigon via Movement Art

Lắng Nghe Điểm Chạm is a project aiming to expand exposure opportunities and application potentials of performing arts into the life of marginalized and minority communities of Vietnam.

in Hotels

How Corporate Meetings Can “Go Green”

Stepping beyond the confines of four narrow walls to embrace the vastness of nature, creative ideas begin to flow effortlessly.

in Service

Why Golf Might Be the Perfect Pastime to Pick Up in Saigon

"What is there that's fun to do today?" You've probably found yourself asking this of friends and family during weekends in Saigon. Golf might be the exact activity you're looking for.

in Environment

I Saw the World's Most Handsome Bird Right in Vietnam's Hidden Backyard

Everywhere I go in Vietnam, I keep my eyes peeled for the incredible birds that call this country home. Sometimes I don’t even realize that I’m doing it. I scan the horizon above low hills for migrato...

in Travel

Angsana Lăng Cô Sets the Standard for Beach Holidays

A soft breeze skims across the calm waves and golden sand while you soak up summer sunlight with hardly another soul in sight. A private beach with plenty of space to stretch out alongside loved ones ...

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: In Huế, Cơm Hến Bé Liêm Is Breakfast With a Side of Warm Hospitality

One of the small joys in life is having a favorite dish readily available whenever you crave it. Ever since I discovered the little hẻm in Saigon where Cơm Hến O Thu lies, my life has been ever so upl...

in Saigon

As Saigon Moves Forward, Xích Lô Lag Behind as Nostalgic Remnants of a Past Era

Among Bùi Viện's assortment of xe ôm drivers and street food vendors, Bible-toting religious enthusiasts and other colorful personalities, 66-year-old Nghĩa stands out for his kind eyes and walrus-lik...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: In a D3 Hẻm, 40 Years of Bún Ốc and Other Northern Treats

As a resident of Saigon, I’m well-acquainted with the city's vibrant food scene, which features cuisines from various regions of Vietnam, and how these dishes blend local recipes with flavors that res...

Paul Christiansen

in Dishcovery

Huế's Palm-Sized Bánh Mì Chuột Is the Perfect Snack for Nibbling While Walking

Huế's culinary landscape is designed for snacking. From bánh khoái to bánh bèo to chè bột lọc heo quay, many of the most popular and delicious dishes are served in small portions that work togeth...

in Travel

A Tribute to the Incredibly Eye-Catching, Organic Signage of Sa Đéc

Signs are like voices.

in Eat & Drink Partner

Residence Eleven: A Cantonese Culinary Journey Above Saigon

Floating high above the city on the 39th floor of Hilton Saigon, Residence Eleven is a narrative in space, taste, and memory. As the first Chinese fine-dining venue in a five-star hotel to offer direc...

in Eat & Drink Partner

Award-Winning Về Để Đi Prepares for Vietnam’s First Single-Malt Whisky

Vietnam’s first single malt whisky is almost here. Right now, it’s up in Hanoi, soaking up subtle flavors from ex bourbon and new American oak barrels.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: 3 Hào, a Retro Industrial Cafe in D7 for Night Owls on Deadlines

What do you think of when imagining a cafe? For me, it's plants in every corner, small and cute paintings that adorn the walls, or a light- and neutral-colored space that brings a sense of peace to cu...

in Resorts

Idyllic Summer Vacation Awaits at Ixora Ho Tram By Fusion

Enjoy a wonderful summer and welcome special anniversaries with family and friends, accompanied by countless five-star resort amenities at Ixora Ho Tram by Fusion resort — the newest arrival toTh...

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

5 Saigon Coffee Shops Based in Buildings With Southern Modernist Architecture

Saigon is a cafe enthusiast’s paradise. A decades-old coffee culture fostered by previous generations is still alive and well, in addition to the latest global trends brought over by the younger gener...

in Hotels

"An Evening In The Hẻm" – When Events Become Stories, and Spaces Hold Memories of Saigon

Tucked away amidst the vibrant rhythm of Sài Gòn Ward, Hotel Indigo Saigon The City reimagines the purpose of an event space. It's Saigon – Gia Dinh Room is not simply as a venue, but a canvas for sto...

in Parks & Rec

In Hanoi, Waacking Is Not Just a Dance, but a Home for Creativity, Gender Fluidity Too

“I get to express my madness.” That is what Trần Khánh Linh, also known as Lyna, says when asked why she has been waacking for the last 10 years. By day, Lyna is a jewelry and gemstone seller, but by ...

in Resorts

Award-Winning Madame Son Restaurant Serves Dishes at the Intersection of Tradition and Innovation

Most resorts have a restaurant, but few have one as good as Madame Son.

in Hanoi

The Legends of Thăng Long Tứ Trấn, the 4 Guardian Temples Protecting Hanoi

In the edict to move Vietnam’s capital to Hanoi, Emperor Lý Thái Tổ described this land as the middle of heaven and earth, the center of the four directions. Such a place would bring peace and prosper...

Paul Christiansen

in Vietnam Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: A Bún Bò in Huế That Rivals Even Saigon's Best Bún Bò Huế

Plastic stools circling low metal tables. Staff wearing pajamas and street clothes that match patrons welcomed from all walks of life. Meagre and/or mismatched decor. Views of street traffic with moto...

Tuyết Nhi

in Travel

Visit a 160-Year-Old Chapel Inside Saigon's Historic St. Joseph's Seminary

Hidden within the compound of the Saigon St. Joseph’s Seminary is a historic chapel that has withstood the test of time.

in Development

The Sophisticated Ways Hồ Chí Minh City's Residents Live, Work, Travel and Study in 2025

Drawing open the curtains of a modern highrise apartment to reveal a gleaming skyline across the river is how the day begins here for many Hồ Chí Minh City (HCMC) residents.

Paul Christiansen

in Environment

How a Self-Taught Documentarian Spreads His Boundless Enthusiasm for Vietnam's Nature

Why “Sticky Discovery”? This was the first question I asked during my interview with the man behind the YouTube series of nature documentaries. His name is Dính, given by his paternal grandmother beca...

in Resorts

Summer Nostalgia by the Sea: La Veranda Resort – MGallery Unveils a Golden Escape

Summer travelers are invited to step into barefoot elegance on Phú Quốc’s storied shores.

in Education Partner

The ISHCMC Advantage: Instilling Leadership, Academic Excellence, and Global Mindsets in Each Student

“These years of my life are very important, they shape the person I'm going to be in the future,” said Danko, a student who just finished Grade 9 at International School Ho Chi Minh City (ISHCMC).

in Education Partner

BIS and BVIS: Two International Schools United by Excellence, Differentiated by Pathways

Maurice Nguyễn and Rosie Ngô had studied and lived overseas but returned to Vietnam to raise their family.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Chè Lâm Vinh Mậu Anchors the Last Remaining Hoa Vestiges of D1

Whenever I come back to Vietnam, it is a personal ritual of mine to visit locales of the past. As clichéd as it sounds, as I have been abroad in Singapore for six years, returning to Vietnam is almost...

in Education Partner

The ISHCMC Advantage: How Every Child Can Grow and Thrive on Their Journey

“The goal of our school is to focus on inclusive practices where our students' individual learning styles are identified so that their learning journey is enriched,” explained Dr. Hana Adams, the Dire...

in Saigoneer Getaways

Tà Năng, One of Vietnam’s Most Beautiful Trails and Best-Kept Secrets

Whether we choose to participate or not, most of us are fascinated by Vietnam’s motorbike culture.

Xuân Phương

in Culture

Under the Sky, Above the Water: Into the Heat at Ninh Thuận's Salt Fields

A 3,000-kilometer coastline is one of nature’s best gifts to Vietnam, bringing about not just ample seafood, but also a motherlode of sea salt.

in Arts & Culture

Summer Nostalgia by the Sea: La Veranda Resort – MGallery Unveils a Golden Escape

Summer travelers are invited to step into barefoot elegance on Phú Quốc’s storied shores.

Xuân Phương

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Bodacious Bún Riêu Ốc Bò at Hanoi's 25-Year-Old Bún Bình Huyền

On the transient days when Hanoi’s weather morphs from winter to summer, the monsoon winds carry with them the drizzles of an in-between time. This cool climate evokes within me a yearning for some wa...

in Education Partner

The ISHCMC Advantage: Lifelong Learning Begins in Early Years

“Each morning, the gates open to the joyful rhythm of footsteps and confident smiles. Students independently stroll in, waving to friends and familiar adults, ready to begin the day. With great enthus...

Khôi Phạm

in Travel

Bask in the Morning Sun in the Green Heart of Huế Along the Hương River

As tourists, it's in our built-in compass to seek out novelties and excitements, if anything, to remind us that our daily humdrum is not everything, and there exists a world out there with multitudes ...

in Retail

OH!SOME Arrives in Saigon With a Spacious Flagship Store Catering to Diverse Consumers

How many stores do you need to visit to find all the toys, beauty and skincare products, accessories, stationery, food and beverage, and lifestyle items you are craving? OH!SOME, a retail brand n...

in Resorts

Where to Rest Your Head Between Đà Nẵng and Hội An

Beach or mountains? Entertainment-rich city, sleepy small town charm or secluded resort? Accommodations with opportunities for luxurious indulgences or cozy spaces for bonding? When planning vacations...

in Travel

Chùa Một Cột in Thailand Reminds Me of the Familiar in an Unfamiliar Land

On my last full day in Khon Kaen, Thailand, I was on a mission to catch the sunset, although the cloudy and gloomy sky didn’t give me much hope. Instead, I randomly stumbled upon a gate with signs wri...

Xuân Phương

in Culture

In Tây Hồ, an Artisan Community Holds Fast to Their Lotus Tea Traditions

Every sip of lotus tea encapsulates all the essences of the natural landscapes of Tây Hồ.

in Eat & Drink Partner

Nephele Rising: Francis Thuận Trần’s New Culinary Order

In a dining scene rapidly evolving toward global recognition, chef Francis Thuận Trần emerges as a distinctive voice—passionate, uncompromising, and deeply rooted in Vietnamese culinary identity.

in Music & Arts

New Tarot Deck Uses Traditional Motifs, Legends and Folk Wisdom to 'Speak Vietnamese'

Tarot decks can feel written in a foreign language.

Paul Christiansen

in In Plain Sight

Pages of Passion Bookstore Epitomizes What It Means to Run a Passion Project

On the sixth floor of an old apartment building on Nguyễn Văn Tráng Street in District 1 stands Pages of Passion, a true haven for book lovers. New and used literature from around the world; non-...

in Education Partner

The ISHCMC Advantage: How Inquiry Empowers Academic Success, Leadership, and Global Citizenship

“It’s the spark behind a love of learning and the foundation of everything we do,” This is how Dr. Tosca Killoran, Deputy Head of School, described inquiry-based learning at International School Ho Ch...

in Education Partner

The ISHCMC Advantage: Going Beyond Grades to Prepare Future-Ready Graduates

Leadership isn’t just taught, it’s lived at International School Ho Chi Minh City (ISHCMC). With a legacy spanning more than 30 years, ISHCMC has helped generations of students gain entry into top glo...

in Music & Arts

Between Motion and Stillness, Huỳnh Công Nhớ Explores Memory and Belief in ‘Mắt Nhớ'

Drawing on themes of childhood memories, human beliefs and spirituality, filmmaker and painter Huỳnh Công Nhớ moves between the worlds of cinema and painting, inviting viewers on a journey in search f...

Paul Christiansen

in Saigon

The Simple Pleasures of Having Your Hair Washed at the Hairdresser’s

I get my face shaved by sidewalk barbers; stop at every roving laminator I pass to have ticket stubs, photos, and doodles encased in plastic as souvenirs; and will always select a stool surrounded by ...

in Education Partner

Playful Learning Powers Early Years Education at the British International School HCMC

At the British International School Ho Chi Minh City (BIS HCMC), Early Years education is built on a simple yet powerful philosophy: children learn best when they are engaged, supported, and free to e...

in Resorts

Đà Nẵng Offers Something for All Types of Travelers This Summer Season

Anyone who claims you can “have it all” is either naive or lying. However, when it comes to vacation destinations, sometimes you can get almost everything. 

Govi Snell

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: In One of Hanoi's Tiniest Shopfronts, a Phở Chay With Big Flavors

Tree-lined Lò Đúc street is home to Phở Chay: a restaurant so small it could fit in the palm of your hand. 

in Ton-sur-Ton

Nay Mai Tạp Hóa Is a Love Letter From Its Founders to Vietnam and the Creative Spirit

When you step inside the jewel-box-sized Nay Mai Tạp Hóa, you have no choice but to confront the immediacy of the products on display around you: clothing, artwork, zines, jewellery, stickers, you nam...

in Culture

In Chợ Lớn, Leaf-Wrapped Rice Dumplings Abound Every Tết Đoan Ngọ

The fifth day of the fifth month of the lunar calendar is a day of great importance in Chinese communities all over Asia.

in Eat & Drink Partner

The Difference is in the Details: El Gaucho’s Handmade Burgers

If the origins of hamburgers are uncertain, their appeal is not.

in Travel

Bạch Nam Hải’s Documentary Photo Series Captures Sapa's 7 Years of Transformation

From the town to the depths of the misty mountains of Sapa, Bạch Nam Hải embarked on a documentary photographic journey, capturing the essence of local life, the intimate connections between people an...

in Music & Arts

A Brief History of Hanoi Rock City, a Bastion of the Indie Spirit

Hanoi Rock City (HRC) is more than a household name for the youth of Hanoi, especially anyone who’s fond of the “Rock n Roll” culture. Nearly 15 years after its founding, HRC has become a special cult...

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Cleopatra Restaurant Adds Egyptian Flairs to Saigon's Dynamic Food Scene

As of 2024, Saigon remains Vietnam’s most densely populated metropolis, playing host to 9.5 million residents. In the quality of life discourse, this crowdedness is often singled out as a weakness det...

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon

Letter to the People I Met as We Hid From the Rain Under a Bridge Together

“Do not be angry with the rain; it simply does not know how to fall upwards.”— Vladimir Nabokov.

Paul Christiansen

in In Plain Sight

Has the Saigon Metro Made Suối Tiên Relevant Again in the 2020s?

Has Vietnam outgrown Suối Tiên Theme Park?

in Music & Arts

In an Ever-Changing Saigon, Street Artisans Hold Fast to Dying Crafts

We delve into the lives of Saigon’s artisans — an animal coconut leaf folder, a woodcarver embracing modern influences, an accomplished street corner calligrapher, and an itinerant craftsman to see wh...

in Hanoi

Hanoi's Bát Tràng Ceramic Village Turns Historic Craft Into Global Fame

Bát Tràng has been producing ceramics for over 700 years, but it’s the recent decades that interest me most: a period in which this small village has mirrored Vietnam’s rapid economic growth.

in Quãng 8

Mèow Lạc on Growing up in Hanoi Rock City and Giving Voice to Cats

Having just finished recording their new album, Mèow Lạc is temporarily taking time apart to focus on individual development so that, when they regroup, fresh ideas can come through.

in Resorts

Escapism Awaits This Summer at The Grand Ho Tram

Vacations offer glimpses into idealized versions of your life.

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Unbearable Lightness of Eating Bò Lá Lốt Alone

There are certain activities that are best not undertaken alone: karaoke, barbeque, watching football and feasting on ốc. The consensus, however, is still out on bò nướng lá lốt mỡ chài, so I decided ...

in Eat & Drink Partner

Sunday Brunch Reimagined at Hôtel des Arts Saigon

Home to some of Saigon’s most beloved dining experiences, Hôtel des Arts’ 23rd-floor restaurant recently underwent significant changes. The elegant space with a tremendous view transitioned from The S...

Uyên Đỗ

in Culture

Inside Chôl Chnăm Thmây, the Festive New Year of Saigon's Khmer Community

As April's fickle weather shifts between sunlight and breeze, Candaransi Pagoda sheds its usual solemnity, becoming animated with a festive spirit. The air hums with the resonant sounds of temple...

in In Plain Sight

Meet the Saigon Man Whose Home Is an Archive of Traditional Musical Instruments

“These instruments serve our everyday life, or even our spiritual life. For example, they mark the transitions of life. When a baby is born or a person passes away, people play these instruments to we...

in Environment

As Saltwater Intrudes More of Mekong Delta, Durian Farmers Struggle to Stay Afloat

Nguyễn Văn Quại, 63, walked slowly on the muddy dirt path in his yard, his hands clasped behind his back. He stopped beside a tree split in half, its branches dipping into the stagnant water of a narr...

in Health Partner

The Story of Premier Dental, A Pioneering Vietnamese Dental Clinic Chain

At the turn of the 21st century, dentistry in Vietnam was generally limited to dental departments in hospitals and small, single-chair private offices operating after hours. In 1999, Dr. Võ Văn Tự Hiế...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: At Mão A Chai, Masala Chai and Thái Nguyên Tea for the Soul

I used to be an international student living in Minnesota, where winter comes early and overstays its welcome. In those long months of snow and silence, I relied heavily on coffee, my go-to companion ...

in Resorts

Private BBQs, Expansive Breakfast Buffets and Ocean-Inspired Meals Await at Non Nước Beach

The soft rhythm of an empty ocean makes an ideal background for any meal. The scene’s grandeur takes on greater intimacy when it’s a private dinner with loved ones, as is the case with a private villa...

Khôi Phạm

in Architecture

On Phú Quý Island, a Curious Collection of Modernist Houses From Central Vietnam

From the 1960s towards the end of the 1970s, urban centers in southern Vietnam saw robust and widespread growth of modernist influences in architecture. Still, outside the usual foci of the movement l...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: A Humble Bún Riêu That Reminds a Child of the Mekong of Home

As a little boy, there were nights when I would burst into tears upon waking up suddenly and not seeing mom around, because I missed her and needed her. One night, I even crawled under the bed and thr...

Paul Christiansen

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: From Music to Mise en Place, A Thăng Is an Eatery That Friendship Built

“We want to be artists; we want to be free. Now we are free,” says Nguyễn Hoàng Anh, co-founder of A Thăng Eatery.

in Culture

In the Latest Issue of 'No One Magazine,' 15 Stories From Vietnam's Queer Communities

No One Magazine, a print publication about underground queer nightlife around the world, is focusing on Vietnam for its second issue with corresponding launch events in Hanoi and Saigon. 

in Education

The Value of Embracing Vietnamese Language and Culture at Việt Nam Tinh Hoa

Parents don’t want to choose between their children having deep-rooted cultural identities and the English fluency necessary to excel in international situations. Thankfully, both are possible. T...

in Tech

Ride-Hailing Changed How We Commute. Can Ve Chai-Hailing Change How We Recycle?

Mentions of ve chai might evoke images of uncles and aunties pushing around their cart or perched on bicycles, ferrying a host of plastic bags and scrap metal, and occasionally calling out: “Đồng nát ...

Paul Christiansen

in Dishcovery

Bored of Mundance Date Spots? Try Tân Sơn Nhất's Romantic Star Cafe.

I know a little place. 

in Resorts

Villas Overlooking Non Nước Beach Welcome Families to Savor Central Vietnam’s Splendid Nature

The calm hush of soft waves accompanies a touch of ocean salt in the air as one wanders along the sand. Tall mango trees clutching eruptions of yellow flowers shade the short stroll from one’s vi...

Uyên Đỗ

in Culture

In a Hẻm in D8, a Scrumptious Halal Feast Comes Alive Every Ramadan

At noon, we make our way through a narrow alley off Dương Bá Trạc Street (District 8) and stumble into a lively scene of Muslim community life. More than a place of worship, this neighborhood unfolds ...

Chris Humphrey

in Travel

'Living Hanoi' Series by Joseph Gobin Delves Into the Capital's Eccentricities

Is there a photographic format more suitable for capturing Hanoi's abundantly complex and alluring culture than the crystalline clarity of medium format film?

Brian Letwin

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Kura Bar, a Veritable Treasure Trove of Rare Japanese Sakes Amid Saigon

Saigoneers are spoilt for choice when it comes to Japanese eateries in the city. Dozens, if not hundreds, of sushi, ramen and izakaya spots dot its districts. And if you're in the mood for something s...

in Saigon

At Saigon's Oldest Ornamental Fish Market, Fish Are Friends, Not Food

It is a street, not a river, that comes to mind when people talk about vibrant fish in Saigon. Located in District 5, Lưu Xuân Tín Street is only approximately 500 meters long, but it is home to ...

in Resorts

New Beachfront Pool Villas Balance the Harmony of Nature and Luxury at Green Bay Phu Quoc Resort and Spa

“Our philosophy is about creating experiences. Resorts that succeed are so much more than a place to stay; we want to create that journey and lasting memories close to nature. Time is finite so every ...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Go Back in Time to Chợ Cũ's Golden Days via Cô Chánh's Hủ Tiếu Mì

In the memory-scape of children growing up in the countryside like me, there always exists the familiar sight of old wet markets and the mornings we spent there, toddling behind our moms on the hunt f...

in Education

How Thoughtful Design Boosts Educational Outcomes: Australian International School Undergoes Multi-Million-Dollar Renovations

According to a 2018 study by the University of Salford in Manchester, carefully considered classroom environments can improve students’ academic progress by up to 16%. Researchers and educators alike ...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: A Night of Love, Poetry, and the Pursuit of the Sublime at Emme Bar

“So what makes Emme House different?” the head bartender Dũng asked during our earlier conversation with Trực, the bar’s owner. “Emme House is not a bar,” he explained. I further inquired then about t...

Uyên Đỗ

in Dishcovery

A Light Bánh Cuốn Quảng Đông to Break Your Fast the Chợ Lớn Way

Meeting up for a Chinese-style breakfast often means gathering around stacked baskets of dim sum or diving into hearty bowls of wonton noodles. But if you're looking for something lighter, a serv...

Khôi Phạm

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Miến Lươn Is a Classic Hanoian Breakfast for Cold Rainy Days

I am Hanoi’s hungriest tourist; and the capital welcomes me into its flavorsome, umami-rich warmth with open arms.

Xuân Phương

in Quãng 8

Ly Mí Cường Takes the Sounds of Sáo H'Mông From Hà Giang to International Stages

Born in 2005, Ly Mí Cường has brought sáo Mèo to international music competitions twice in his life — and he managed to take home the first prize both times. Cường’s anchor is always H’Mông culture, t...

in Travel

Insights, Polished History Lessons Await in Hanoi's Massive, Brutalist Military Museum

When I pitched a review of Hanoi’s massive new Vietnam Military History Museum to the Saigoneer editorial staff, I expected to find the museum somewhat boring. After all, although I am a historian, I ...

in Dishcovery

Cua Cà Mau Consommé Evokes Nostalgic Summer Beach Holidays

Seafood reminds chef Nghiêm Minh Đức of childhood vacations to northern beaches with his family. But since moving to Saigon, he has been exposed to southern products including cua Cà Mau’s which inspi...

in Education

Examining the Cognitive, Emotional, and Social Benifits of La Petite Ecole’s Plurilingual Education

  What is a plurilingual education? Simply stated, it is one that teaches academic content in two or more languages rather than just teaching the languages as subjects in and of themselves. The ...

Thi Nguyễn

in Culture

In Vietnam, Joss Papers Link Life and Death, Modernity and Tradition

Joss papers and effigies consumed my experiences before I began to even question their meaning. On the anniversary of my grandfather’s death (giỗ), my grandmother routinely set up a large pot in ...

in Dishcovery

Tôm Sú Kakiage with Floating Rice Noodles is a Crisp, Cool Dish for Steamy Saigon Afternoons

Phở, bún, hủ tiếu, cao lầu and bánh tằm are stand-outs in Vietnam’s impressively diverse portfolio of noodles made with rice. The ones Saigoneer tasked Anaïs Ca Dao van Manen to create a dish with wer...

Khôi Phạm

in Development

With the HCMC Metro Here, It's Time to Cultivate Saigon's Very Own Metro Culture

One of my least favorite genres of comments on Saigoneer’s social media posts is jokes involving the laggard opening of the HCMC Metro and some random, outrageous year far into the next decades, or ev...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Cô Chi Creates a World of Northern Noodles Right in Her Living Room

Bún Cô Chi offers a great introduction to the wonderful world of northern noodles.

in Snack Attack

From Sticky Rice and Sugar, Bánh Tổ Binds Me With Tết and My Hoa Vietnamese Roots

This Tết, you’re invited to my grandma’s house for a true-blue Tết meal of Hoa Vietnamese, comprising char siu, khâu nhục (braised pork belly), cured duck meat, etc. Then, you can think of the best we...

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: At D5's Sủi Cảo Đại Nương, a Song of Chives and Fire

One night after my meal at Sủi Cảo Đại Nương, I find myself in a mystifying dream about chives.

in Resorts

Traditional Tết Holidays Complimented by a Beach Vacation

Traditional Lunar New Year festivities stretch to all corners of Vietnam and Đà Nẵng is embracing the vibrant transition into the most important time of the year. 

in Resorts

The New Year Brings New Joys at Grand Ho Tram

While traditional, Tết doesn’t need to feel outdated. Combining the timeless charm of the holiday with emerging opportunities for fun allows the season to remain enticing for people of all backgrounds...

Paul Christiansen

in Saigon

How to Curate the Best Playlist to Listen to While Riding the Saigon Metro

When you get a new toy, it's only reasonable to take it out to play with as often as possible.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: In a Hẻm, on Plastic Chairs, One of Saigon's Best Pizzas Beckons

“The leopard spots. They hate them,” Hiếu Trần explains to me. “They think it means the pizza is burnt.”

in Eat & Drink

Savoring the Spectacular Views from Zion Sky Lounge & Dining

When the sun starts to fall, glazing a glittering expanse of skyscrapers with orange light, Saigon’s skyline reveals its most beautiful, energetic character. The view from Zion Sky Lounge & Dining imp...

in Resorts

Local Culture Embraced For Year of the Snake at An Lam Retreats Saigon River

Year-round, An Lam Retreats Saigon River seeks to capture and share the essence of traditional Vietnamese culture via its unique architectural style, refined cuisine, and activities that recreate fasc...

in Saigon

Life in Saigon's Old Tenements, the Remaining Vertical Villages of Past Decades

Is “out with the old, in with the new” the new motto when it comes to Saigon's real estate scene?

in Snack Attack

How to Know You're in Mỹ Tho? The Sugarcane Juice Has Roasted Peanuts.

In Marcel Proust’s In Search of Lost Time, when the protagonist tastes a piece of tea-dipped madeleine, the flavor combination immediately transports him back to the childhood memories he’s buried dee...

in Vietnam

The Vintage Charm of 1995 Vietnam on Kodachrome Film Slides

While editing a retrospective of my recent work from Vietnam in the summer of 2019, I discovered 50 yellow boxes of Kodachrome slides in my basement that were shot in 1995. The images were from my fir...

Khôi Phạm

in Dishcovery

Sấu, Mơ, and Lotus Tea: The Delight of Freezedom Hanoi's Creative Gelato Flavors

Apart from a rather ambitious list of Hanoi-specific dishes to sample, my itinerary for the capital includes three personal wishes: ride the Hanoi Metro, visit Sonder Coffee Bar, and try out Freezedom...

in Education

Viet Nam Tinh Hoa Emerges: A New Identity, The Same Excellence

“Our new branding is a more authentic reflection of who we are: rooted in Vietnam, yet drawing strength from NLCS (North London Collegiate School). While it may have been easier to remain as NLCS, our...

in Society

The Childhood of Côn Đảo's Baby Turtles Caught on Film

In July, I visited Côn Đảo National Park as part of a group of International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) sea turtle volunteers to see first-hand conservation efforts aimed at the loca...

in Music & Arts

The Cultural Depths in Contemporary Hip-Hop Dance ‘129BPM: Động Phách Tách Kén’

Have you ever witnessed a live performance so powerful that it still lives in your mind weeks later? “129BPM: Động Phách Tách Kén” is not your usual hip-hop breakdance battle, but a contempo...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: CAM Coffee Serves up a Chill Ambiance With a Side of Bánh Cam

Bánh cam, or sesame doughnuts, has been my beloved snack since childhood.

in Environment

WWF-Viet Nam’s “Elements of the Mekong Delta” Networking Dinner Shines a Light on Climate-Resilient Products

As part of a project aimed at empowering communities in the Mekong Delta that are facing serious threats from climate change, WWF-Viet Nam assists local households in raising plants that are more resi...

in Resorts

How Meliá Ho Tram Beach Resort Helps Nurture “Forever” Family Memories this Holiday Season

Our daily lives are consumed by routine obligations like work and school. While these necessities provide for many worthwhile experiences, long, far-flung vacations may be the optimal conditions to cr...

in Sports

Ward off Your Monday Blues by Joining Me on Beginners' Skateboard Night

Usually in life, niche topics are commonly associated with unpleasant stigmas and misunderstandings — skateboarding in Vietnam is no exception. Once, I admittedly was influenced by such one-sided assu...

Uyên Đỗ

in Saigon

The Forgotten History Behind Saigon's CEE Colonial Substations

Woven into the fabric of modern-day streets, the aging electrical substations of Saigon stand as quiet witnesses to a historical era shaped by the complex legacy of French colonialism.

in Eat & Drink Partner

Snow Falls in Zion Sky Lounge & Dining While Partiers Redefine Holiday Traditions

Have you ever wanted to establish a new Holiday tradition?

in Arts & Culture

A Dialogue Between Humanity and Nature Through the Duo Exhibition “Biophilia and Naturalis”

Amid the chaos of modern life and urban development, where humans are in constant, fast motion, nature is an important element to remind ourselves of and return to. In this duo exhibition by Patricia ...

in Eat & Drink Partner

Pink Pearl Restaurant Prioritizes Sustainability with Vietnam’s First Michelin Green Star Restaurant

Sustainable gastronomy is amongst the most popular recent dining trends while traditional French cuisine is one of the most enduring restaurant experiences. The two are coming together on December 15 ...

in Music & Arts

Severine Phương Trần's Debut Exhibition in Saigon Celebrates a World of Colors

Step into Severine Phương Trần’s first-ever exhibition in Saigon, where you can explore the artist’s inner world of vibrant colors and different emotions. To fully enjoy this exhibition, it is best to...

in Resorts

A Palatial Path to Wellness at Four Seasons Resort The Nam Hai

Wellness is a word deeply entrenched in the hospitality industry with many resorts using it as a core element of their branding and services. But some resorts take it a step further. When implemented ...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: An Alternative Cơm Tấm From Long Xuyên for Thịt Kho Trứng Fans

When it comes to cơm tấm, most people are familiar with cơm tấm Sài Gòn, featuring grilled pork ribs as the vedette topping. But since the dish’s creation, and as it gained popularity across the Mekon...

in Resorts

Nature-Seeking Travelers Set Sights on Nha Trang’s Green Gem this Holiday Season

If you’re looking for tropical getaways to Vietnam’s central coast for this holiday season and include search engine terms like 5 Stars, Nature, Peaceful, Relaxing, and Exciting, one name will continu...

in Vietnam

For Hội An Residents, Learning to Live With Floods Is a Fact of Life

The water reached my shoulders, and when I stepped into the street I suddenly felt the current trying to pull me into its invisible grasp. A familiar feeling that set off an alarm inside my head: “Be ...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Amid Saigon's Heat, a Wintry Ambiance in Xocoati's Cozy Cocoa Drinks

Amidst Saigon’s year-round scorching heat, I crave coziness — a feeling that often comes with snuggling under heavy blankets in my Hanoian winter. I was searching for some comfort and “winter vibe” sp...

in Saigon

The Calming Quietude of an Early Morning Stroll Through D1

As a city that is perpetually either sweltering hot or halfway under water, Saigon weather rarely includes cool breezes or overcast mornings. And yet, over the past few weeks, the city has experienced...

in Hotels

Feast, Celebrate, and Indulge During the Season of Togetherness with Sheraton Saigon Grand Opera Hotel’s Festive Offerings

Every holiday season aims to be a period of special indulgence to celebrate and treat yourself and those you love. For the last twenty years, the Sheraton Saigon Grand Opera Hotel has been a popular p...

in Health Partner

​​How Mornington Spa is Elevating Saigon's Spa Standards

Saigon’s urban landscape is dotted with spas and beauty salons, many of which provide standard services. Mornington Spa in District 2 aims to stand out with a holistic approach, international standard...

in Eat & Drink Partner

Christmas Snow Town Transports Saigon Guests to Wintery Wonderland at GEM Center

Anyone who has attended an event at GEM Center knows how spectacular their sensory installations can be. Saigoneer has been wowed by pulsing jellyfish chandeliers, digital butterflies flickering aroun...

in Resorts

Festive Season Arrives with Time-Traveling Themes at Sheraton Grand Danang

The festive season in Vietnam may not include quaint snowy villages or homes covered in lights, but you can still embrace the magical charms of Christmas and New Year's here while enjoying splendorous...

in Ănthology

In Taiwan, a Vietnamese Baker Creates Bánh Mì Thịt From Scratch

“We’re going to Taipei on VietJet Air,” an acquaintance said to me. An international flight on Vietnam’s notoriously delayed airline didn’t sound like the best idea ever. But who would expect that I w...

in Resorts

The Grand Ho Tram Invites Families and MICE Guests for a Radiant Festive Season

The winter holidays can be difficult in Vietnam. Work and school routines combined with a dearth of decoration around every corner threaten to dampen the spirit of the special time. However, an easy d...

Khôi Phạm

in Vietnam

Cold War History With a Side of Nem Rán in Prague's Little Hanoi

Across English-speaking countries such as the US and Australia, the Vietnamese diaspora established close-knit “Little Saigon” towns whenever they settled down, founding large markets, starting financ...

Paul Christiansen

in In Plain Sight

To Appreciate Tao Đàn More, Study the Park's Past, Present, and Future

Shallow shrub and fern roots tussle to send shoots, tendrils and stalks up and outwards, sprawling across uneven ground and grasping at patches of light. A musky, funky, fetid soil stink emanates from...

in Music & Arts

Resilience, Resistance Reflected in Propaganda Art Exhibition ‘Crafting a Message’

How did daily life on the battlefield look from the perspective of first-generation Vietnamese photojournalists? Why did colorful stamps and propaganda posters play such a significant role in the war ...

in Education

Exploring the Power of an International Community at International School Ho Chi Minh City

Success at the International School Ho Chi Minh City (ISHCMC) can be measured according to many metrics. From IB DP test scores well above the world average to impressive academic careers post-graduat...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Slurping Thick Noodles and Seafood at Bánh Canh Ghẹ Út Còi

A whiff of the ocean hits you before you even step foot onto the street. In this curious corner between Quang Trung and Nhà Chung, a new form of restaurant exemplifies the vitality and variety of Hano...

Paul Christiansen

in Travel

Art, Flowers Bloom at Huế’s Hidden Museum, Lebadang Memory Space

People often think that art is distant and difficult to appreciate, but a garden is different; everyone knows how to admire a flower.

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Reliving the Joy of Jollof Rice at Saigon's Only Nigerian Eatery

Food is history. For some, it may just be sustenance, fuel for life, something to wash down quickly with sips of water to keep the body going. But the reality is that many food types have directly inf...

Xuân Phương

in Culture

In Nam Định, a Village Goes All out in Festivities to Honor Their Holy Ancestor

Comprising a range of ceremonies and traditional activities reflective of Vietnam’s rice-growing culture, Keo Hành Thiện Pagoda’s annual festival is a momentous occasion for locals to pay respect to t...

in Architecture

Saigon's VOH Radio Building, a Marvel of Architect Lê Văn Lắm's Modernist Intuition

In the middle of the 20th century, Vietnam grew to become one of the world’s prominent centers of modernist architecture. Saigon at the time was an economic and cultural heart of the region, with many...

in Eat & Drink Partner

French and Korean Cuisine Celebrated at Pink Pearl's Gourmet Duet Four-Hands Dinner

A meal that celebrates French and Korean cuisine and incorporates Vietnamese techniques served in a Phú Quốc restaurant designed in homage to 1920s American opulence? Such an outlandishly unique meal ...

in Music & Arts

Group Exhibition ‘In Absence, Presence’ Awakens Multi-Sensory Experience

Looking upward, downward, left and right, we follow an invisible yet powerful flow of energy in the dark, then carefully gaze at the artworks as if they are living entities. To enjoy this multi-sensor...

Văn Tân

in Music & Arts

Tử Mộc Trà Nurtures Her Family Bond With Textile Into Installation Artworks

Tử Mộc Trà, whose real name is Phạm Thùy Dương, is a young artist born and raised in Hanoi. Her artistic pursuit was nurtured by an innate sense of creativity, family traditions, and her time spent on...

in Resorts

“The Bay of Peaceful Clouds” is Home to Rare Animals and Unique Relaxation

In Sino-Vietnamese, Ninh means “peace, tranquility, and happiness,” while Vân means “cloud.” Together, they form "clouds of peace," which evoke a sense of calm freedom and gentle romance amidst the va...

Paul Christiansen

in Vietnam

How to Spot a Traveling Vietnamese at the Airport? Boxes With Sharpied Names.

“If you know, you know.”

Uyên Đỗ

in Saigon

Into Saigon's Charming Hidden Third Spaces in the Shade of Bridges

Third place (noun): A space outside of one's home and workplace, where people meet and interact socially.

in Eat & Drink Partner

The Straits Opens Inviting Diners to Embark on a Journey Through Flavors

Extravagant lion dancers tumbled and leaped before cascading sparks; graceful fan dancers strutted across the stage; and a techno-backed bartender twirled cocktail shakers in front of an enraptured cr...

in Parks & Rec

I Know Where the Caged Bird Sings: The Joy of Saigon's Birdsong Competition

One by one, motorbikes arrived, carrying the tell-tale cages covered with cloth and parked in the gravel lot beside the coffee shop where Saigoneer sat listening to the caged birds suspended above a p...

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: A Streetcart Named Aoya and the Comfort of Sidewalk Ramen

The first time I tried to visit Aoya Ramen was on a Monday. The pavement where the stall should be was empty, without any trace of noodles or noren. I learned quickly that they’re closed on Mondays. T...

in Eat & Drink Partner

IN Dining Ushers in a Transformative Era for Au Lac Do Brazil

Many Saigon restaurants come and go though some endure and evolve. Au Lac Do Brazil has been long known to Saigoneers as the first Brazilian-style Churrasqueira barbecue restaurant in Vietnam with a v...

in Music & Arts

Explore the Realm of Sơn Mài Paintings via Nguyễn Xuân Việt’s New Solo Exhibition

What does it mean for an artist to preserve and continue the legacy of traditional Vietnamese lacquer across generations? Through this solo exhibition, Nguyễn Xuân Việt showcases his vast expertise an...

in Health Partner

Phuong Chau Hospital Launched Second IVF Unit: A Beacon of Hope for Couples Struggling with Infertility

On September 10, 2024, Phuong Chau International Hospital held a press conference to launch Saigon Phuong Chau Infertility Department (IVF), a second unit operated and managed by IVF Phuong Chau at Ph...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Time-Tested Sâm Bổ Lượng Versus Wacky Quail Eggs in a Dessert

As a kid, my mom would often buy me chè when the weather was too hot to keep me from drinking Coca-Cola. Chè made by Hoa people always got my attention, thanks to its distinctive presentation. Though,...

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon

Reminiscing About the Last Days of Downtown Saigon’s Pigeon Coop

The first time I pay a visit to the Pasteur pigeon coop, Lê Văn Âu assures me the place is probably not going anywhere.

Uyên Đỗ

in Dishcovery

The Unbearable Lightness of An Giang's Bánh Bò Thốt Nốt Chảo

Some simple delights can capture the flavor of an entire region.

Xuân Phương

in Culture

This Trung Thu, Learn How to Make Lion Heads From Huế's Lân Artisans

Often seen as the heart of Central Vietnam, Huế is the birthing ground for many traditional crafts. Artisan products from the ancient city often exude its inhabitants' elegance and rustic quality. Amo...

Thi Nguyễn

in Snack Attack

In Bánh Củ Cải, a Curious Slice of Bạc Liêu's Teochew Heritage

You know a dish is special when it can spark conversation with a stranger on a bus. Halfway through the scrumptious bánh củ cải (radish cake) from our last-minute trip to the market, I shared the othe...

in Eat & Drink Partner

Fantasy Served with Local Flavors at Phú Quốc's Pink Pearl Restaurant

To flex their importance, the privileged flaunt what’s prohibited. When America banned the sale and consumption of alcohol in the 1920s, those rich and powerful enough to be beyond the law indulged in...

in Education

Ben Armstrong Joins Jo Roberts as Co-Heads of School at European International School

"Having Co-Heads of School provides several opportunities for EIS. Firstly, we can harness the power of collaborative leadership by leveraging our different strengths, experiences, and perspectives to...

in Quãng 8

Aprxel Builds Her Ethereal R&B Dreamscape With 2000s Nostalgia

“High school was when we all had lots of thoughts and reflections. And I felt like I didn’t fit in with the world around me at that time, so I turned to music as my companion,” Aprxel reflects on the ...

in Music & Arts

Vy Trịnh Takes Us 'On Da Dream' via Her Solo Exhibition at Galerie Quynh

Tough-looking, yet elegant metal ribbons spark, spill, move and occupy all corners of the empty space: up and down, left and right, and in countless directions. Through a new series of sculpture works...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: This Modern Co-op Serves up One of Hanoi's Best Skewer Bánh Mì

Hợp Tác Xã Thịt Xiên is more than just a bánh mì eatery, it’s a place to rekindle your childhood nostalgia and take in the ambiance of the street.

Paul Christiansen

in Dishcovery

Saigon's Most Famous Cua Rang Me Is a Tangy Tamarind Party

It started with tamarind, and ended with crab.

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: An Alternative Cao Lầu in Saigon for Full-Topping Eaters

If I have to use one word to describe the food philosophy of Saigoneers, it would be maximalist. Those who have had the gluttonous joy of hunkering down on a plastic chair on the sidewalk and demolish...

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: A Long-Anticipated Bowl of D10's Pre-Eminent Mì Vịt Tiềm

Rarely have I gone into a meal with such anticipation.

in Music & Arts

A World in Turmoil via Mahdi Abdullah’s Exhibition 'Memory and Body Mythology'

How does an artist turn haunting memories into powerful artworks that speak for himself and on behalf of countless lives? Mahdi Abdullah’s paintings serve as social commentary on the realities that th...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Mơ Đi Hội, When Florists Dream of Opening a Cafe

When book lovers open a café, we are blessed with book cafes; when animal lovers open a café, we are given a myriad of animal cafes; what happens when florists open a café? This is the case of Mơ Đi H...

in Resorts

From Intimate Weddings to Prestigious Company Events, The Grand Ho Tram Offers Something for Everyone

Most people have a ready list of dream vacation destinations and go-to weekend getaways but have spent less time pondering where their ideal meeting locale is. Similarly, engaged couples  are oft...

in Saigon

Into the Infernal Heat of One of Saigon's Last Remaining Forges

It's no exaggeration to say that working in a forge is akin to being in a fiery sauna.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Ghé Coffee Tucks Art, Fragrant Coffee Into a Quiet D1 Crevice

Delivering premium origin coffee and fine art from artists across Vietnam in a tiny room that dates back to French colonial times, smack dab in the middle of District 1, The Ghé Coffee balances the fi...

Elise Luong

in Architecture

'Slow/ed/ing Architecture': When Architects Ruminate on Architecture Together

The super cute duo that make up the design studio “Exutoire” are Bùi Quý Sơn and Paul-Antoine Lucas. Life and work partners, they moved back(ish) to Vietnam from Oslo last year, and are currently prep...

Paul Christiansen

in Environment

An Octopus? In My Cà Mau Swamp? It's More Likely Than You Think.

Worms live in the ground, birds live in the air, cá lóc live in lakes and octopuses live in the ocean, right? Wrong! Octopus can also live in the river.

in Music & Arts

New Exhibition on Painter Lưu Công Nhân Is a Trip Through Time

The solo exhibition allows the audience to time travel to the world of the late painter Lưu Công Nhân. From watercolor sketches to large-scale paintings, old documents, and even a typewriter on displa...

Paul Christiansen

in Environment

In Awe of the Mekong Delta's Majestic Sluice Gates

A row of impenetrable watchtowers tasked with inflicting ruthless law and order upon a dystopian borderland seething with marauders, bandits and brigands? No. Sluice gates.

Paul Christiansen

in Food Culture

Into the Beguiling Backyard Rice Wine Distilleries of Long An

The highway eases into sand and gravel the way history descends into myth and legend when traveling towards Long An. A mere 27 kilometers outside of Saigon, the province feels a world away: the differ...

in Snack Attack

From a Blend of Cultures, Phá Lấu Became a Beloved Saigon Street Snack

When the word phá lấu is mentioned, two genres of dishes will appear in the mind of Vietnamese. One is a small bowl of orange broth that sings of coconut milk, another is slices of caramelized offal a...

in Service

The Brand Promise: The Future of Work is Life

Everything about running a company is difficult, particularly one started from scratch. Doing so requires the forging of the brand’s character and values, as clearly communicated to its team and clien...

in Music & Arts

Traces of Movement, Memory and Heritage in Duo Exhibition 'Entrusting to Emptiness'

An exhibition that brings the audience through the transition between day and night, and movements between dream and memories. There is no beginning and no end, and all elements above somehow reflect ...

in Service

SODÅ: Maverick Startup Aims to Set New Hospitality Norms

in 2014, Alvaro Moreno was still in the early stages of his hospitality career. His professional journey had taken him to a major hotel in Đà Nẵng where he was helping to build out an operations team ...

in Resorts

In Search of Nature and Serenity this Summer at Green Bay Phu Quoc Resort and Spa

Phú Quốc can still offer a haven for nature lovers seeking a peaceful place to reconnect with their surroundings.

in Saigoneer Getaways

Abundant Nature, Small-Town Charms and Unexpected Luxury in Phú Yên

With a total population hardly larger than some Saigon districts and limited tourism development, Phú Yên province doesn’t get much consideration when people are planning their next vacation.

in Vietnam

From 'Freeze' to 'Avcngcrs': Inside the Wacky World of Vietnam's Bootleg Toys

In Vietnam, you can find a Lego set in official Lego stores or any big toy shops at high prices; but if you take a different route, you can find Lego sets being sold by small vendors for much cheaper....

Paul Christiansen

in Ton-sur-Ton

Easybadwork's Free Spirits Are Rooted in Nature and the Underground

A sparrow swooping across a special-edition can of Coca-Cola, the illustrations featured in the artworks of Ngọt's Grammy-nominated album boxset, or perhaps even the tattoo on a stranger you pass on t...

Xuân Phương

in Hanoi

In Suburban Hanoi, With Summer Comes the Red-Purple Cascade of Mulberries

In suburban Hanoi, this is the season when mulberry branches heavy with bright red fruits dangle in the summer wind.

in Resorts

Live Music, Sports, Art and Activities Fill District VUI with Summer Fun

Vietnam’s south-central coast is blessed with warm sunshine, cool waves, and relaxed vibes all year round, creating a perpetual vacation atmosphere. With school breaks and summer holidays, there is no...

Paul Christiansen

in Music & Arts

Get to Know the Dynamic Local Art Scene Alongside 'Saigon Art Journey'

“This is not a tour, remove that word from your minds. This is an interacting and exploring journey,” explained Angeline Gong, an experienced art host known by Saigon’s artists and galleries as Z-Gong...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: In D5, a Family Durian Xôi Xiêm Recipe Inspired by Cambodia

At first glance, xôi xiêm sầu riêng — or sticky rice with egg custard and durian — may appear plain-looking, but apart from being a tasty sweet treat, this simple dish also holds stories of life durin...

Xuân Phương

in Snack Attack

A Pilgrimage to Sơn La, Vietnam's National Mận Capital, as a Devoted Fan

There’s a kind of sweet, sour, and slightly tannic fruit that never fails to make our mouths water every summer.

in Eat & Drink Partner

Singaporean Street Food In The Sky at Sedona Suites

Saigon foodies may be surprised to learn that some of the best Singapore hawker-style street food can be found 28 floors above the city with spectacular views of the skyline. After refining its B...

Khôi Phạm

in Culture

Xe Trái Cây: If You Can't Find Lovingly Sliced Fruit at Home, Cart-Bought Is Fine

Nature has numerous ways to make itself known: male peacocks fan out their glorious tail made up of iridescent eye-patterned feathers to attract peafowls; blue-ringed octopuses don’t need to invent an...

in Snack Attack

An Ode to Dried Fruit, Vietnam's Parent-Approved Way for Children to Sugar Load

I first knew dried fruit as a category of munchy snacks that had my parents’ approval.

in Service

Hospitality: It's the Personal Touch by Wings Academy

Artificial Intelligence and other technologies are disrupting nearly every industry including banking, F&B, hospitality and retail. Business owners and employees in these fields are understandabl...

in Education

Starting from Day One: How NLCS Primary Students Prepare for the International Baccalaureate Diploma Program

The International Baccalaureate Diploma Program (IBDP) readies students aged 16 to 19 for the world’s top universities and a fulfilling, successful future.

Paul Christiansen

in Dishcovery

We Should Offer Gỏi Măng Cụt a Full-Time Position in Saigon's Food Scene

The mangosteen salad trend hit TikTok in 2023, creating a demand that led locals to quit their jobs and take on more lucrative full-time fruit-peeling duties.

Brian Letwin

in Travel

The Quiet Calm of Hiding From the Heat Under Phan Rang's Grapevines

The punishing mid-day sun dictates the pace of life in the corridor between Phan Rang and Cam Ranh, where locals escape to their living rooms or hammocks, and tourists seek the cooling breeze of the b...

Paul Christiansen

in Travel

The Curious Case of Quy Hoà Leprosy Colony's Park of Busts

A delightfully bizarre place, Quy Nhơn’s Quy Hoà leprosy colony deserves exploration in full, but clustered in a grove of trees on its outskirts in Nhân Ái Park stands a particularly peculiar assembla...

Xuân Phương

in Music & Arts

A Visit to Vụn Art, Where Disabled Artisans Turn Fabric Scraps Into Artworks

Fabric scraps, often considered industrial waste, are “revived” by members of Vụn Art cooperative by turning them into intricate silk artworks.

in Hotels

Mai House Embraces Hocance Guests this Summer

Korean speakers invented the word hocance, a portmanteau of the English word hotel and the French word vacance (vacation), to describe staying in a hotel near one’s home in order to relax and pamper o...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: At Sakaba Sasuke Izakaya, Happiness Is Wrapped in Pork Belly and Grilled

It took a few visits before I noticed that the music at Sakaba Sasuke was always the same.

in Education

The Importance of Service Learning in a Holistic Education at AIS

“We want our students to grow up be really good leaders with a moral compass and purpose for the future. Service learning is a great way of helping them to develop these key attitudes and skills,” exp...

in Eat & Drink Partner

Le Méridien Saigon’s ‘Pause + Savour’ Chef Series Kicks-Off with a Bang

During last week of April the much-anticipated culinary program Pause + Savour debuted at at Le Méridien Saigon.

in Resorts

A Case for Visiting Đà Nẵng in the Summertime

Summer is almost here, bringing with it a plentitude of reasons to travel within Vietnam.

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Sip on Mugwort Lattes, Make Ceramics, and Unwind at Haru Cottage

“I’m basically Demi Moore from Ghost,” this intrusive thought plagued my mind occasionally during our visit to Haru Cottage to participate in the cafe’s ceramic class.

Khôi Phạm

in Food Culture

What to See, Taste, and Do on a Late-Afternoon Walk in Phú Mỹ Hưng

There are probably Saigoneers who will grow old without ever setting foot in Phú Mỹ Hưng, just like how several of my relatives living in District 8 have never visited Nguyễn Huệ Walking Street. Havin...

Oliver Newman

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Bingsu, Folk Crafts, and Hanboks at Hanoi's Hayoon Cafe

“What inspired you to open a Korean cafe?” I ask Giang, the manager of Hayoon Cafe in Nam Từ Liêm, a popular Korean district in Hanoi.

in Resorts

La Veranda Resort – MGallery: A Canvas for Unforgettable Summer Moments

With the summer season quickly approaching, Saigoneers are spoilt for choice, particularly when it comes to beach destinations. For those looking to indulge in the serenity of island life, La Veranda ...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: At D7's Tía Tô, Home-Cooked Korean Comfort Food for the World-Weary

Growing up in South Korea's extremely competitive and high-stress education system, combined with strict Asian parenting, my relationship with my parents has never been easy.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Tokyo Moon Cafe Introduces Homey Korean Flavors to Japan Town

Stepping into Tokyo Moon is like venturing into a world of wonders, neatly packed within a mere 35-square-meter space.

Paul Christiansen

in Culture

An Ode to Photo Booths, the Korean Trend Preserving Our Memories in Time

How can photo booths be a new trend if they’ve been around forever?

in Saigon

Hidden in the Heart of D5, an Architectural Vestige of 1970s Vietnam-Korea History

For years now, the verdant pine green pavilion in the heart of Hòa Bình Park in District 5 has been a familiar landmark for denizens of Chợ Lớn.

in Hotels

How the Hilton Saigon Aims to Live Up to Lofty Expectations

For years, Saigon residents have watched the Hilton Saigon slowly rise and gain shape, the impressive building taking a prominent place in the skyline overlooking the river surrounded by historic Dist...

in Eat & Drink Partner

“Pause + Savour” Dining Event Launches at Le Méridien Saigon

Pause + Savour is a new series of Chefs' Table events that will celebrate the diverse international cuisine that Saigoneers crave via collaborations with premier international chefs visiting Le M...

in Quãng 8

Thành Đồng's Music Is a Breath of Fresh Air in the Era of Overproduction

Inspired by life 's simple joys, Thành Đồng delivers a sense of familiarity, earnestness, and narrative richness with every song.

in In Plain Sight

Hanoi's Largest Indoor Aquarium Is Surprisingly Impressive for a Mall Attraction

I am a champion of the public aquarium. For many people, the aquarium is the only place where they can meet marine life outside of perhaps a wet market or seafood restaurant. Some research suggests th...

in Resorts

From Saigon to Serenity: A 7-Step Wellness Journey at Meliá Ho Tram Beach Resort

For many of us living in Saigon, leaving the city for its hinterlands can be an important pilgrimage, best made regularly to achieve spiritual balance. While fresh air and open space are part of the r...

in Education

Britain’s Prestigious North London Collegiate School Arrives in Vietnam

A World-class IB Family of schools with 175 years of exceptional education in the UK, Korea, Dubai, Singapore, and Vietnam invites families to join. 

in Food Culture

Đà Nẵng Is Michelin's New Destination for 2024 Version of Vietnam Guide

After Saigon and Hanoi, Đà Nẵng will be the next Vietnamese city with its own Michelin Guide selections.

Uyên Đỗ

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Flan by the Canal, a Cute, Affordable Date in the Age of Inflation

Skip the formal attire, a bit of loose change is all you need for a waterfront rendezvous in Saigon.

Paul Christiansen

in Music & Arts

At Bùi Chát's Painting Exhibition, a Freedom to Feel Without Preconceptions

Contemporary art can intimidate viewers. People often think they need familiarity with certain histories, theories, philosophies and biographies to appreciate a painting. I have friends who do not hav...

Brian Letwin

in Saigon

Every Morning, I'm Grateful for My Carless Ride to Work on Hoàng Sa Street

In the decade-plus of Saigoneer’s existence, we’ve had six offices strewn across different parts of Districts 1 and 3. Over that period, my homes have been located in Bình Thạnh and Thảo Điền, requiri...

Uyên Đỗ

in Health

Sweating out My Sadness on the Canal's Exercise Machines

We're all unlucky in love sometimes. When I am, I go jogging. The body loses water when you jog, so you have none left for tears.

Paul Christiansen

in Environment

Charting the Flow of the Nhiêu Lộc Canal From Start to Historical Start

When I fall in love with an album, I seek out the artist's first mixtapes and demos. When I come to admire a poet, I hunt down their early poems and chapbooks. I even linger over the old highlight ree...

Paul Christiansen

in In Plain Sight

On a Boat Ride Through Nhiêu Lộc Canal, a Fish's-Eye View of Saigon

Could your life in Saigon be made into a quirky indie film? 

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: While the Day Away Under the Green Canopy of Cỏ Cafe

Under a thick canopy of verdant vines and minuscule pink flowers, it’s easy to indulge in the cooling comfort of a glass of iced tamarind juice and while the day away.

Paul Christiansen

in Saigon

The Nhiêu Lộc-Thị Nghè Canal's Comeback Story

Water has no hometown.

Mầm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Come up, We're Watching Old Movies on the Neighbor's Wall

“Thank you for contacting Khôngtrung.bar. Our business hours are 6pm to 1am, Monday to Sunday. Open doors. Cocktails, craft beer, outdoor screening — Thursday and Sunday. Thank you and we hope to bump...

in Eat & Drink Partner

The Caravelle Unveils Five-Course Meals that Showcases Convergence of Classic Elegance and Modern Creativity.

Bright lights illuminate the intricately carved facade of the famed Saigon Opera House in the background, its elegant statues bathing in the cool night air while cars rush past Lam Sơn Square, a blur ...

in Film & TV

Indie Short Film 'Saigon Kiss' Is a Quintessential Saigon Queer Love Story

Is there a meet-cute more characteristically Saigon than a motorbike breakdown and subsequent friendly assist from a stranger?

Tuyết Nhi

in Culture

In Ê-đê Villages, Bến Nước Is the Heart Pumping Water Across the Community

Ever since the beginning of time, Ê-đê people have treated water as a respected resource of the community. Water, in their belief, is the life force bringing about bountiful harvests for the villages....

in Education

Harnessing Technology to Unlock Educational Potential at Australian International School

While curriculums have evolved and learning philosophies have progressed, the biggest changes in education in recent decades involve technology.

in Environment

Preserving Cambodia's Endangered Irrawaddy Dolphins: Community-Based Ecotourism and Nature-Based Solutions in the Mekong Flooded Forest Landscape

At dawn, the blunt foreheads of Irrawaddy dolphins breach the calm surface of the Mekong River the way an epiphany enters one’s mind; unexpected, graceful and profoundly welcome.

in Music & Arts

Nam Jam Festival Returns to Đà Nẵng With Week of Mural Arts

The Nam Jam Festival from March 4 to 10 invites more than 50 local and international street artists to create massive works of street art in Đà Nẵng. 

in Film & TV

'Madame Pirate,' Film Project Based on Asia's Greatest Female Pirate, Sets Sail Again

Zheng Yi Zao “started as a prostitute, resisted the authority of the Qing emperor, kicked everyone’s bottom, and then got away with it... also she has been ignored by history,” explains Vietnam-b...

in Education

Why La Petite Ecole May Be a Great Starting Point for Families Looking for the Right School in Saigon

For Saigon parents, finding the right school for their children is an important and simultaneously daunting task. The undertaking can be particularly challenging for expats and mixed couples who must ...

in Education

Global Citizenship at the Forefront of Education at European International School

“Global citizenship is a way of living sustainably that demonstrates respect for the environment and for others,” says Jo Roberts, Acting Head of School at European International School (EIS).

Xuân Phương

in Culture

Meet 90-Year-Old Huỳnh Văn Ba, the Father of Hội An's Foldable Lanterns

In his 90s, Huỳnh Văn Ba’s hair has turned completely silver, but when he was telling me stories about lanterns, his voice and eyes sparkled with a particularly lively hope. Thanks to Ba’s invention —...

in Environment

WWF-Viet Nam’s Support of Mekong Delta Farmers Combating Climate Change in the Mekong Delta with Floating Rice, Fish-traps, and Lotus Seeds

“Compared to 10 years ago, for every 10 fish we once caught, we now only manage four or five,” explained Nguyễn Văn Dê, a lifelong resident of Vĩnh Đại commune in Long An Province.

Xuân Phương

in Culture

In Hà Nội, a Martial Arts Master Preserves the Century-Old Tradition of Dragon Dancing

In Vietnam, during festive occasions such as Tết Nguyên Đán (Lunar New Year), mesmerizing dragon dance performances serve to eloquently spell the people's aspiration for fortune, abundance, and p...

in Culture

In the Year of the Dragon, Confessions of a Supposedly 'Auspicious' Dragon Baby

During high school, I learned that babies born in years of the dragon were thought to be “fortunate” and thus, highly sought-after.

Khôi Phạm

in Food Culture

This Tết, I'm Finally Learning Our Family Recipe for Candied Coconut 'Flowers'

Tết is the perfect occasion of the year to go ham on the sugar.

in Education

From Digital Societies and Theatre to Environmental Systems, Sport and Computer Science: BIS HCMC’s Wide Range of IBDP Subjects Prepares Students for Exciting Futures

When you picture secondary school students absorbed in their coursework, you are unlikely to envision them learning about Digital Societies, Computer Science, Environmental Systems and Societies (ESS)...

in Environment

WWF-Laos’ Efforts to Preserve Unique Ecosystems and Traditional Ways of Life in the 4,000 Islands

As it flows down through Laos towards the border with Cambodia, the Mekong River frays and unspools into separate threads of current that weave around islands and rocky outcroppings and tumble over As...

in Culture

When Lịch Bloc Is Gone, What Will Vietnam Use to Keep Discarded Fish Bones?

I have never bought a lịch bloc, or tear-off calendar, for personal use, because every new year, I'm bound to be gifted a brand-new one. In Vietnam, a calendar is often something one purchases as a pr...

in Resorts

Tết by the Sea: Celebrate Loved Ones at Wyndham Grand Phu Quoc this Year

In Vietnam, once a year, offices close and schools empty so everyone can savor the most important holiday. For many, Tết is the only opportunity to untether from the toil of their busy lives and creat...

Paul Christiansen

in Culture

It's Tết: The Liberating Magic of Using Tết as an Excuse for Everything

I hate excuses.

in Saigon

Portrait of a Jubilant Saigon on the Precipice of Tết in 1992

Tết in 1992 was an especially fortuitous time to be a foreign arrival to Saigon. 

in Education

Unlocking Potential from a Young Age: The Advantages of Enrolling Children in International Education at BIS HCMC

The path to becoming a lifelong learner begins early.

in Vietnam

In 1992 Vietnam, the Streets Were Brimming With Love and Life

How has your life been transformed in the past 30 years? Changes might materialize overnight, but some tend to creep up on you at a glacial pace. Through this collection of images from 1992, mull over...

in Hotels

Weddings, Birthdays, Business Meetings, Master Classes and Community Gatherings: Villa Song Excels at Event Hosting

Sleek white flowers accented by flickering candles contrasted the lush patch of trees across the river as the sun set and the couple exchanged their vows, alternating between laughter and near-tears.&...

in Eat & Drink

“Burgers Chose Me”: The Journey of Pingu's Burger and Healthy Fast Food

On an intimate, tree-lined street in the middle of Thảo Điền sits Pingu's Burger. By outward appearance, it seems like your run-of-the-mill burger joint, but there’s more intention here than one would...

in Music & Arts

TIMEZONES Podcast Spotlights Soundscapes, Sound Artists of Hanoi

The 18th episode of the TIMEZONES podcast series focuses on Hanoi's soundscape through the lens of three female artists. More carefully produced and artistically arranged than the average podcast...

in Dishcovery

Sparkling Oysters: Champagne Meets Caviar at Social Club Restaurant

Caviar, oysters and Veuve Clicquot champagne are all special on their own, but imagine them combined in one luxurious mouthful.

in Eat & Drink Partner

Michelin-Starred Chefs Arrive in Nha Trang from Spain for Debut of Hispania

Spain has been home to the Michelin Guide for over 100 years and several Spanish chefs representing some of its starred restaurants are bringing their talents to Nha Trang this January for the Vietnam...

in Resorts

Culinary Innovation at Phú Quốc: La Veranda Resort Unveils Gourmet Xin Chao

La Veranda Resort Phú Quốc - MGallery, a sanctuary of elegance on Vietnam's tranquil island, proudly unveils Gourmet Xin Chao, an epicurean event popular with food lovers. Available from November 2023...

in Environment

On the 12th Day of Christmas Saigoneer Gave to Me: 12 Bird Calls From Across Vietnam

Almost everywhere we go in the world, birdsong abounds.

in Music & Arts

Hem Hem Lights up Saigon With the Electrifying Riffs of Japanese Ska

The cheerful ska tunes combined with insanely energetic and quirky dance moves packed every inch of the indoor space of Indika with heat and pure joy.

in Music & Arts

Saigon, East of New Orleans: The Surprising Global Roots of Vietnam's Funeral Kèn Tây

Of all the forms of music one hears on the streets of modern-day Saigon, the sounds of the marching bands accompanying funeral processions stand out as absolutely unique.

in Resorts

Embracing 'Quận Vui': The Grand Ho Tram's Journey Into a New Era of Joyful Living

A subtle yet exciting transformation is underway at The Grand Ho Tram with Quận Vui — a district where dynamism, freedom, and unbridled fun converge to redefine guests’ understanding of leisure.

Paul Christiansen

in Environment

Floating Rice, Lục Bình Baskets and Dried Fish: How WWF-Viet Nam is Helping Save the Mekong Delta

For much of the country, the word flood conjures images of cataclysmic destruction and death. But in the Mekong Delta, it means life.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Hủ Tíu Mực Ông Già's Squid Game Is to Die For

It’s safe to say that one of the most authentic culinary experiences one could have in Vietnam is to sit on a stool, in an eatery that feels very much like someone’s house, and slurp on a bowl of pipi...

in Hotels

Indulge in Festive Flavors at Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers

Saigon residents and visitors share a diverse set of backgrounds and values. This manifests most during holidays when many seek to celebrate but in unique ways. Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers is the...

in Arts & Culture

Art, History, Wellness and Sustainability Attended to at Amanaki Thao Dien

Colorful Biên Hòa pottery pieces that reveal the distinct influence of French and Japanese techniques; a hand-operated shaved ice machine; mid-20th-century barber chair; antique magnifying glass; trad...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Reading Cabin Sells Stationery, Serves Drinks, and Builds Friendships

If I had to describe Reading Cabin in one phrase, it would be “every cafe in Saigon all at once.”

in Culture

Inside the Bình Thạnh Depot Where Retro Military Knick-Knacks Live

“This furniture has been around for many decades, but you can use them normally without the fear of breaking them. Because they are industrial equipment made for the military or office buildings, they...

in Education

Mangrove Planting Efforts Expanded to Include Shrimp Farms in the Mekong Delta

Mangrove forests protect against floods and storms, offer homes for wild animals and remove carbon dioxide from the atmosphere which is essential for combating global climate change. First appearing d...

Paul Christiansen

in Music & Arts

The Haunting Beauty in Một Mét Studio's Vintage Photography Experiments

“With the wet collodion process, when you get your portrait shot, it really cannot lie; it really reveals the story of your life on your face. You will see through your make-up, through the tattoos; t...

in In Plain Sight

At Bá Tân Bookstore, a Home for Vintage Books, Readers, and Goodness

I got to know Bá Tân Bookstore thanks to a friend’s suggestion.

Paul Christiansen

in Saigon

Did You Know That There's a Mummy on Nguyễn Bỉnh Khiêm Boulevard?

Why is there a mummy on display in Saigon?

Xuân Phương

in Food Culture

Meet the Hội An Family Making Cao Lầu Noodles From Scratch

Amid Hội An’s treat-filled culinary landscape, cao lầu emerges as something that’s both simple and one-of-a-kind.

Paul Christiansen

in Dishcovery

A Flaky Pâté Chaud That's Been a Saigon Institution Since 1930

It took me 37 years to have my first pâté chaud.

in Resorts

Celebrate the Festive Season in the Tropics at La Veranda Phú Quốc – MGallery

While half of the world is starting to bundle up against the backdrop of falling leaves and even-faster falling temperatures, La Veranda Phú Quốc - MGallery is gearing up for another balmy, tropical f...

in Music & Arts

In Quện's Live Sets, Đà Lạt's Everyday Corners Turn Spontaneous Stages

All attention was aimed towards the same direction, the one where an accident had just taken place. Near 24C, Hoàng Diệu Street in the city of Đà Lạt, two vehicles collided. The shock and chaos attrac...

in Eat & Drink Partner

Stunning Sunset Views from One of Saigon's Most Historic Streets

Saigons streets all seem to have at least two stories: the person they are named for, and the history of the street itself. Take Hàm Nghi Boulevard, for example.

Elise Luong

in Hanoi

Sweating for a Good Cause at the Blue Dragon Children’s Foundation Walk in Hanoi

I learnt of the Blue Dragon Children’s Foundation in my first year living in Hanoi, through friends that had worked for the fantastic organization, or that were regular donors supporting it. This year...

in Education

The Power of First Impressions at Australian International School Saigon

What is an Open Day? An opportunity for prospective families to view a school’s facilities, meet members of the teaching and leadership teams, and learn about curriculums, admissions and career paths?...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: It's Impossible to Resist Bún Riêu Cô Yến's Crispy Fried Tofu

A few years ago, my family’s Christmas Eve tradition of making gỏi cuốn was swapped out for a special competition, one that would decisively end a longstanding rivalry: who, out of the aunts and uncle...

Elise Luong

in Music & Arts

Bodies of Work Shred, Re-Shaped at 'White Noise' Exhibition

A dystopian setting where the human body appears scattered, its parts eerily dismembered, its desires and beliefs examined by the hands of a machine is fictionalized in the “White Noise” exhibition, n...

in Education

Why the European International School Community Is Best Experienced in Person

“I think we do fun very well here,” explains Jo Roberts, the Deputy Head of School at European International School (EIS) in Saigon.

Oliver Newman

in Parks & Rec

In Đà Nẵng, a Close-Knit Surfing Community Rides the Waves

Đà Nẵng does not feel like a surf town. The gaudy beachside nightclubs are a far cry from the bohemian vibes of Hawaii or San Diego, and the coastline is more synonymous with basket boats than surfboa...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Wake up Early, We're Getting Hủ Tiếu Cá for Breakfast

When I used to live in Hanoi, I always knew that if an eatery only opens for half a day, the food is probably certified, at least by the locals, to be not only good, but excellent. There is something ...

Uyên Đỗ

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: On Falling Head Over Heels (Literally) for Dũng Ký's Mì Xào Giòn

When Saigoneer’s office relocated from District 1’s downtown to District 3 earlier this year, one of the instantly noticeable changes was the increase in affordable eating options.

Paul Christiansen

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: From Cà Mau, Cô Xíu Brings Bánh Tầm Cà Ri Cay to Bình Thạnh

Recently, I’ve had the Mekong Delta on the mind. This month I made two trips down to research various elements of the watery region, and also spent time reading author Khải Đơn’s tremendous delta-focu...

in Health Partner

How One Saigon Gym Is Re-Inventing Fitness

Technology has fundamentally altered how Saigoneers travel around the city, find and eat food, form and maintain relationships and make purchases. Such innovations can profoundly change how one approa...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Bánh Đa Cua Hải Phòng, a Rare Northern Treat in D10

On the way to Phú Thọ Indoor Sports Stadium in District 11, make a turn off 666/74 Ba Tháng Hai, go all the way to the far corner, and you’ll discover Triển Chiêu Quán’s bright yellow sign. Park under...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Bánh Canh Hẹ Is Phú Yên's Homage to Chives and the Sea

Ever since I was a kid, I have had a general dislike towards vegetables, but green onion has always been an exception. I regard green onion as a garnish that can lighten up the whole dish, and it seem...

in Sports

A Glimpse Into the Epic Underground Shows of Vietnam Pro Wrestling

Back in 2018, Saigon witnessed the birth of Vietnam Pro Wrestling (VPW), the first and only Pro Wrestlers in the whole of Vietnam, and a lot has changed since then.

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Best Cao Lầu Outside of Hội An Is in Tân Bình

Years ago, the first time I ate cao lầu, I committed a cardinal sin. As I gazed upon my freshly assembled bowl of noodles, without much thought, I asked the waitress for more sauce.

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: What Bún Cua Gia Lai Taught Me About Vietnam's Bond With Bún

Not being a picky eater was somewhat of a personal point of pride for me growing up. I have my family to thank for this, as their immense patience and open-mindedness have encouraged me to explore as ...

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: From Nghệ An, a Turmeric-Tinged Miến Lươn Feast in D7

Once upon a time, deep in the distant kingdom of District 7, there was a miến lươn place. 

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: A Trip to Bàn Cờ for Lạng Sơn’s Sweet and Sour Dry Phở

There’s not much you can say about phở that hasn't already been said. From its complicated origin to its deliciousness to its ubiquity on Saigon’s streets, the subject has been covered ...

in Education

AISA Games Come to Saigon

Australian International School, Saigon (AIS Saigon) is set to host students from Australian International Schools across Asia this November, for the highly anticipated AISA Games 2023. 

in Vietnam Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: In Đà Nẵng, Góc Nhà Tụi Mình Is Where Tea Time Feels Like Home

As a Đà Nẵng native, I often get asked where and what to eat and drink by friends who are in town. The tried-and-true list of places in my mind always includes Góc Nhà Tụi Mình, which I’ve frequented ...

in Saigoneer Getaways

A Day Exploring the Diverse Environs of Hồ Tràm

Living in Saigon has plenty of perks, but generally speaking fresh air, relaxation and meandering paths aren’t among them and Saigoneers are constantly looking for opportunities to leave the city for ...

in Dishcovery

Beautiful Jade Tiger Abalone Arrive at Hotel des Arts Saigon for a Good Cause

Jade Tiger Abalone is amongst the world’s most prized kinds of seafood. Requiring several years to grow exclusively in Australia’s frigid, nutrient-rich waters without the use of any hormones, antibio...

Oliver Newman

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: In the Same Hanoi Building, a Music Fan's Essentials — Vinyls and Cocktails

Sharing a building, Montauk and LP Club might initially appear to be just another cafe and another record store, but their goals are far loftier than selling drinks and vinyl.

Oliver Newman

in Saigoneer Getaways

On Japan’s Shonan Coastline, a Wintry Vista of Mount Fuji

It was my first trip to Zushi Beach and the sun was beginning to set. 

Uyên Đỗ

in Saigoneer Getaways

Finding Solace in the Placid Water of Trị An Lake as a City Dweller

I took a deep breath, realizing that I was suspended in the midpoint of everything, above the calm, glassy surface of Trị An Lake and beneath the vast, enveloping azure sky that blanketed Mã Đà forest...

in Music & Arts

How Richie Fawcett's Saigon Sketches Illuminate a Decade of Change

It’s been hidden right there in the heart of Saigon for over half a decade. 

Xuân Phương

in Culture

Phan Thiết's Vibrant Whale Worship Festival Reflects Vietnam's Rich Animist Traditions

Whale worship started from a folk belief harbored by fishermen seeking help from the gods to endure the arduous days spent at sea, but over time, it grew to become one of the most prominent spiritual ...

Paul Christiansen

in In Plain Sight

Shrimp Fishing in Thanh Đa Is Fun Even When You Don't Catch Anything

If it weren’t for shrimps, developing taste buds would have been an outrageous waste of evolutionary time and resources. Truly, without the potential for boiled, grilled, fried, baked or even raw shri...

Morgan Ommer

in Vietnam

In the Mekong Delta, Ferries Are Childhood Friends and Daily Companions

The Mekong Delta is called Đồng bằng Sông Cửu Long in Vietnamese — the Nine Dragons River, for the way the mighty Mekong splits into multiple strands as it nears its final destination, the East Sea.

in Travel

In Gò Vấp, a 'Floating Temple' Stands the Test of Time and River Currents

On an isle amid the Vàm Thuật river in Gò Vấp District, Phù Châu Temple, colloquially known among locals as the “floating temple,” has welcomed religious practitioners looking for a serene quarter in ...

in Eat & Drink Partner

Chill Outdoor Lounge Brings Serene Buzz to Thảo Điền

Thảo Điền is filled with trendy cocktail spots and cozy dinner joints, but one new venue aims to stand out like a beacon in the dark.

Govi Snell

in Saigon

Relive Your Memories of Saigon Water Park via These Photos by One of Its Makers

Although water parks involve a combination of two of the most tedious human experiences, standing in lines and prolonged direct sun exposure, the now-demolished Saigon Water Park was an icon of 2000s ...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Trứng's Divine Flan Is What Happens When Saigon Dreams of Japanese Desserts

My slight obsession with Japanese-style flan started in Tokyo, but it’s taken on a new life here in Saigon.

Tuyết Nhi

in Saigoneer Getaways

Just 12km From Huế, a Hidden Lake Welcomes You to a Night of Stargazing

If you’ve been meaning to embark on a trip to escape from the chaos of daily life but aren’t quite keen to plunge straight into the wilderness, Huế might be the perfect next destination. The city...

Paul Christiansen

in Music & Arts

In Huế, an Interdisciplinary Exhibition Opens Literal and Metaphorical Doors

“I cannot stop opening doors,” Phan Lê Hà said in regard to the physical objects that reappear throughout her creative works.

in Sports

Saigon Heat Wins Intracity Rivalry Over HCMC Wings, Closing Out VBA Regular Season

Families of fans filed into the “Fire Pan” on September 3, wearing red, white, and black jerseys. The atmosphere hums with anticipation.

Oliver Newman

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: The Quiet Intimacy of Tree Bar, Where Strangers Become Fast Friends

A group of patrons gossip in thick, fast Japanese. They might all know each other or they might just speak to anyone at the bar as if they already know them. The wizened “master” joins in from his per...

Xuân Phương

in Saigoneer Getaways

Hà Giang's Thôn Khun Is a Soothing Oasis for the World-Weary Traveler

Located in the heart of a valley surrounded by verdant stretches of forest, the little hamlet of Khun retains much of its pristine natural charms. From the enigmatic beauty of the local Bó Mỳ Cave to ...

in Eat & Drink Partner

A Culinary Revelation Unveiled at Le Méridien Saigon with Executive Chef Phi Công

In the heart of Saigon, Chef Phi Công, the Executive Chef at Le Méridien Saigon recently unveiled an innovative, sensory-driven dining experience.

in Hotels

Bringing Beauty into Event Experiences at Villa Song

“If you think you’re beautiful, but you are not in a beautiful place; it’s not perfect,” explained Arief Gunawan, Villa Song’s General Director, to a gathering of business leaders last month.

in Culture

The Artist Preserving Saigon's Cultural Tapestry Through Hand-Painted Signs

"In the early 2000s, the market experienced an exodus of painters due to the shift to digital; it was difficult to retain customers otherwise. I didn't want my craft to be forgotten, so I started ever...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Hanoi's Long Waits Jazz Club Dreams a Little Dream of Jazz

Long Waits, a self-proclaimed “modest jazz club,” is the culmination of many dreams that merged and shifted before finally giving Hanoi a modern yet quaint jazz experience.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Nourishment for the Soul at Canh Bún Nguyễn Siêu

Eating canh bún is akin to going for a walk on a clear day as sunset melts over the city; it costs almost nothing yet nourishes the soul.

Paul Christiansen

in Environment

Vignette: Local Ox Rampages Airport, Stops Flights, Gets Put in Museum in Huế

Name a famous buffalo.

in Travel

How An Lam Retreats Saigon River is Revolutionizing Wellness

Though wellness continues to be a common refrain offered by resorts in Vietnam and around the world, it’s often used to describe services like spas, steam rooms and saunas at far-flung resorts. A 25-m...

Mầm

in Vietnam Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Đà Lạt's Nomadic 'Cafe' Has No Menu, No Store, and One Table

During a recent trip to Đà Lạt, a friend invited me for coffee at 5:30am. The frosty climate of the Central Highlands mornings concerned me, but upon hearing the pitch about a whimsical cafe that oper...

Paul Christiansen

in Environment

Vignette: Behold Vietnam's Oldest Rock, a Memento Mori of Human Insignificance

While lamenting how long it had been since I’d last sent a postcard, a coworker at Saigoneer revealed that she is too young to have ever seen a stamp in person, let alone affixed one to a letter. The ...

in Ănthology

In Massachusetts' Cicada Cafe, a Marriage Between New England and Vietnamese Flavors

“I don’t like the term ‘fusion,’” Vinh Lê, the chef of Cicada Coffee Bar, tells me. “You need to adapt. You need to adapt to the new environment, new life, when you move from Vietnam to the US. And to...

in Eat & Drink

In Search of Quy Nhơn’s New and Traditional Delicacies

When asked what one should do when visiting, Quy Nhơn, one of Saigoneer’s favorite cities, the answer is simple: eat!

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Milo Dầm Is Decadence, Childhood and Street Culture in a Spoon

Growing up in Saigon before the surge of foreign dessert trends like milk tea, cheese tarts, and bingsu, the humble and affordable Milo powder found in almost every grocery store and street vendor was...

Khôi Phạm

in Travel

Train to Biên Hòa: A Day Trip Into Suburbia From Saigon

When Saigoneer first announced a few weeks ago that Vietnam’s railway network would be the centerpiece of our next themed article series, a number of readers joked in the comment section that who in t...

in Dishcovery

Chả Cá Lã Vọng, Now in Burger Form at D2's Latest Burger Joint

With its tiled walls, neon signs, and red-and-white color palette, The Smash Saigon appears to emulate the classic aesthetics of American diners. These motifs are so heavily associated with American c...

in Film & TV

Review: ‘Bên Trong Vỏ Kén Vàng’ Is a Soul-Searching Mission in the Lâm Đồng Mist

On the pastures of slow cinema where Andrei Tarkovsky, Tsai Ming-liang and Theo Angelopoulos reside, Phạm Thiên Ân's debut feature, Bên Trong Vỏ Kén Vàng (Inside the Yellow Cocoon Shell), has made its...

in Eat & Drink Partner

Modern and Traditional Flavors Intertwine in Miss Thu’s Exciting New Dining Concept

Truly new dining concepts are few and far between in Saigon with typical fine dining and set menus occasionally being joined by the likes of “night brunches.” Some venues choose to be a bit more darin...

in Parks & Rec

Tiny Tracks, Big Passion: Inside the Miniature World of Vietnam's Model Train Enthusiasts

“When you turn it on, the train is not only moving, but it can make sounds too. The sounds are so authentic that when I listen to it, I feel like I am sitting on a real train right now,” Minh Tú, a Sa...

in Travel

An Lam Retreats Saigon River: An Oasis for Families to Reconnect and Recharge

For professionals with families, living in Saigon poses a number of challenges, especially a lack of public spaces and fresh air. For many parents, a trip to a verdant cafe or kids club is the most pr...

in Vietnam

My Great-Great-Grandfathers Were in Indochina in the 1880s to Build the Railway

We often see archival images of old Hanoi, but these photos are different — they are personal. The following shots, which come from a collection of five photo albums, are the only surviving record of ...

in Hanoi

Glide Over Hanoi in the Calmness of the Cát Linh-Hà Đông Metro Line

In many countries, urban metros are a mundane convenience — so ordinary that their users often take them for granted. But until the birth of Hanoi’s Cát Linh-Hà Đông Metro Line, residents of Vietnam h...

Chris Humphrey

in Travel

The Majesty of Crossing Myanmar on Colonial-Era Trains

Whether on the slow train carving its way through the Shan Hills near Kalaw, the Mandalay to Yangon Express, or the 4am train to Hsipaw that crosses the great Goteik Viaduct, traversing Myanmar on gri...

Paul Christiansen

in Travel

Vignette: On the North-South Train, a Pastiche of the Human Condition

“Heavy with the thick smell of misery and before even leaving the station, the odor of urine would be palpable throughout the car,” writes author Dạ Ngân of the North-South Train in 1989. Back then, a...

in Eat & Drink Partner

Private Poolside BBQs Served in the Heart of District One at Sedona Suites

Saigon’s dining scene has a lot going for it. Restaurants that offer creative takes on all varieties of cuisines, trendy decors and cutting-edge concepts seem to open every week. What’s more rare, how...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Dì Út Tells Her Family's Indian-Vietnamese Story via Tasty Bò Kho

The arrival of the rainy season in Saigon has left me craving for hot meals to beat the cold, damp weather. I was on my way home from work in the aftermath of a bout of rain one day and found myself i...

Paul Christiansen

in Literature

In Nguyễn Phan Quế Mai's New Novel, Saigon's Rhythms Hum in the Background

“I’m always homesick for Vietnam. To write is to return home. That's why I had to bring Vietnam alive onto the pages. I had to hear the people speak, I had to listen to the music, to the language; I h...

in Culture

An Homage to Rastaclat, the Coolest Bracelets of Our High School Years

During my teenage years when a lot of us were trying new things, I can remember certain trending items affected our lifestyle. For me, amongst the most memorable was the Hypebeast culture that ca...

in Environment

Learning to Coexist in Peace Is the First Step to Protect Vietnam's Last Remaining Elephants

A trail of enormous footprints, criss-crossing slabs of cracked concrete, lead to a battered ranger station in Vietnam’s Pù Mát National Park. Park staff say the wild Asian elephant that left the trac...

in Education

Australian International School Welcomes New Executive Principal

“The world is interconnected, companies work across countries and continents. Education today, therefore, has to prepare students to be global citizens: team players and team leaders, quietly confiden...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: At Bún Thang 50, Unexpected Hanoi Flavors in a Phú Nhuận Corner

When I was growing up in California, every couple of months, plastic containers of sliced fried egg, chicken, and chả lụa would line the kitchen counter. This medley of ingredients would usually mean ...

in Health Partner

Careplus Caters to Foreign Residents Health Needs and Concerns

Moving to live and work in Vietnam can be a stressful process. This can be exacerbated by the country’s hot, humid climate as well as the noise and air pollution and new diets. All of this contributes...

Đồng Thanh Thủy

in Ton-sur-Ton

Chiecquanque Breathes Life Into Patchwork to Create Unique Handmade Clothing

Chiecquanque is an independent fashion brand presenting clothing items, backpacks and bags that were handcrafted. Each item that the store carries is a one-off creation that exists on its own due to t...

in Ads

SaladStop! Celebrates Convenient New District 7 Location

Nestled in a converted house in a quiet and spacious District 7 residential neighborhood, SaladStop!’s newest venue has begun preparing fresh and healthy meals for dine-in and delivery.

Oliver Newman

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Tender Bar Is an Introvert's Haven, Except on Tuesdays

“Just read it and forget it. Then you can write anything you like about Tender Bar. Thank you.”

Paul Christiansen

in Culture

Vignette: How Bình Định's Nón Ngựa Gave Me Hope for the Tourism Industry

In 1964, when Đỗ Văn Lan was only 14 years old, a group of American soldiers spent six months at his family’s Bình Định home learning how to make nón ngựa. Once he learned that I am American, he told ...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Chuối Nếp Nướng That You Can't Find on Google Maps

Before the birth of TikTok and food review channels, many Saigoneers already grew up with their own set of staple food gems. As a youngster, I would visit the city's familiar, delicious food stalls wi...

in Eat & Drink

Landmark 81’s Oriental Pearl Prepares Dishes with its Head in the Clouds

What Saigon venue offers the best mountain view? This may seem like an absurdist question given the city’s notoriously flat landscape, but if you go up high enough, you are actually able to see them r...

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The 40-Year-Old Phở Gà in Kỳ Đồng, Now Michelin-Approved

If you’re ever lost in District 3, Kỳ Đồng’s famous phở gà place will be the oasis you need in those trying times.

in Eat & Drink

From Buffet to Wine Bar: Exploring Dining Options at Saigon Grand Opera Hotel

A shimmering sprawl of fresh prawns greets guests who arrive at Saigon Café for a nutritious, energizing International Buffet Lunch. The seafood is a perfect introduction to a meal that relies on fres...

Oliver Newman

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: A Ngõ Cafe Houses Big Dreams for Buôn Ma Thuột Beans

A well-known singer from the Central Highlands city of Buôn Ma Thuột, Mai Trang is taking an extended break from show business to focus on her other passion: coffee.

in Eat & Drink Partner

New District 1 Taproom Gives Glimpse into Pasteur Street Brewing’s Future

It’s impossible to pass the newest Pasteur Street Brewing Company (PSBC) taproom at the corner of Lý Tự Trọng and Thủ Khoa Huân in central District 1, and not take note of the lively, inviting space.

Xuân Phương

in Culture

The Hanoi Village Where Making Folding Fans Involves Every Family

One summer day, I made a trek into suburban Hanoi to Thạch Thất District. Walking along the dirt road surrounded by green maturing rice fields, I reached Chàng Sơn Village.

in Eat & Drink Partner

Creativity and Quality Surprise at Mai House’s Affordable Seafood Buffet

Unripe mangosteen chicken salad has been all over Vietnamese social media during the past few weeks, though we didn’t expect to find it at an upscale hotel dinner buffet. But across from the sushi and...

in Eat & Drink

Every Half - Vietnam Specialty Coffee Roasters Exemplifies Vietnam’s Evolving Coffee Industry

Despite being the world’s second-largest coffee exporter with cafes and vendors filling its streets, Vietnam is rarely recognized for the quality of its coffee. But anyone who has strolled around Saig...

Paul Christiansen

in Music & Arts

Art Exhibition 'Ngẫu Biến' Invites Viewers to Find Their Own Meaning

“When you write, you go inside yourself, when you paint, you go outside,” said poet and painter ng. anhan.

in Dishcovery

A Cinnamon Whisky Sour to Pair with a Skyline Sunset

With over 30,000 tons produced a year, Vietnam is the world’s third-largest cinnamon supplier. Native to Central and Northern Vietnam, the dried tree bark adds a complex layer of flavor to traditional...

in Dishcovery

920k VND Landmark Pho Aims for the Clouds

If you lived in Hanoi, is there a breakfast you would fly down to Saigon for the day to enjoy? Le Trung, the Executive Chef at Vinpearl Landmark 81, Autograph Collection told Saigoneer that one family...

Léo-Paul Guyot

in In Plain Sight

In Hanoi, the Vietnam Museum of Nature Is an Inquisitive Child's Heaven

Amidst the dull, grey buildings of the Hanoi University of Science and Technology, a giant dinosaur model stands out. The T-Rex was guarding the entrance to the Vietnam National Museum of Nature (Bảo ...

in Education

La Petite Ecole’s French Curriculum Benefits Families Well Beyond Saigon’s French Community

  “When you learn a language, you don’t just learn the language, you learn new attitudes, ways of thinking, culture and history,” explains Aline Nguyen, the Principal of La Petite Ecole Ho Chi M...

in Health Partner

Strategies for Navigating Vietnam's Foreign Work Permit Process

The greatest source of stress for foreigners living in Vietnam is often obtaining a work permit. Complicated and frequently changing regulations coupled with long wait times and burdensome paperwork m...

in Asia

Pride Fest, Cambodia's Most Ambitious LGBT Event to Date, Is Coming This Week

On a steamy evening in downtown Phnom Penh, Rebecca Chan takes the stage. The crowd — mostly Cambodian millennials and Gen Z's — is riled up from previous performances, but Chan’s composure tames thei...

in Dishcovery

Fresh Lobster Served with Salted Egg Cream Sauce

Seafood buffets in Saigon are all about the lobster. Anyone who has visited an upscale buffet here knows that the fresh crustaceans are the star attraction and often the first item guests place on the...

Linh Phạm

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: What a Tea Ceremony Taught Me About Our Lotus Tea Traditions

“The lotus is our national flower, and lotus tea is regarded as the national tea.”

Paul Christiansen

in Saigon

The Simple Pleasures of Kite-Flying in Thủ Thiêm

One of the most elegant means to observe the textured heft and untethered strength of otherwise-invisible wind — there is plenty one could say about the poetry of flying kites. 

in Education

Empowered Secondary Students Personalize Their Curriculum Pathway at the British International School

The amount of international schools available in Ho Chi Minh City seems to be outnumbered only by the many acronyms prospective families must memorize to make sense of the differences in curriculum an...

Uyên Đỗ

in Dishcovery

Fruity, Creamy, Icy: A Bingsu Corner in D7 for Those With a Sweet Tooth

As summer draws closer, bringing with it a sweltering sun and drenched T-shirts, one's mind can't help but drift to the incomparable delight of a snowy treat that can ward off the season's heat.

Paul Christiansen

in Dishcovery

Nem Cuốn Is the Refreshing Rolls We Need in Saigon’s Sweltering Summers

Even during the summer, when the sun bares its teeth and snarls at passing clouds, one must eat. But lugging a belly stuffed with hot, heavy soup, rice and meat through days devoid of shade sounds hor...

Paul Christiansen

in In Plain Sight

An Ode to Saigon’s Chò Nâu Trees

It’s too cold for chò nâu to grow where I’m from, but we still gave it an English name: dipterocarp.

in Dishcovery

A Creative Caramel Pork Lunch at BARSON

From cơm tấm to thịt kho to giò thủ to bún chả, Vietnamese cuisine has perfected pork preparations. Saigon’s pork enthusiasts thus enjoy many options when deciding where to enjoy the protein for lunch...

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: At a Corner of Nguyễn Văn Linh, Saigon's Best Korean Cold Noodles

Much like a stereotypical meet-cute in a romantic comedy, the majority of my most memorable food experiences often involve a faux pas of varying degrees of humiliation.

Uyên Đỗ

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: In a Saigon Hẻm Lives a House for Rare Regional Delights

One fine day a few months ago, I embarked on a search for the flavors of faraway lands across Vietnam, all of which are present in a hẻm in the middle of Saigon.

in Resorts

What Leadership Means to Walter Power, Grand Ho Tram’s CEO

While Vietnam has resorts of every kind, one particular property’s dizzying array of offerings and guest profiles may make you wonder: “How does this all work?” The Grand Ho Tram works in large part d...

in Eat & Drink Partner

C'est Cheese, the Ultimate After-Work Destination For Cheese-Lovers

Sometimes happiness is as simple as a plate of cheese and meat. At least, it's possible to believe that during a visit to Hôtel des Arts’ monthly C'est Cheese. The stunning spread of imported cheeses,...

in Dishcovery

Okra Food Bar’s Pork Chop Finds Unexpectedly Bold Flavors in Familiar Ingredients

Widely available and inexpensive, okra may not immediately come to mind when listing vegetables frequently found in memorable dishes. Yet, with enough skill and creativity, okra can anchor tastebud-ti...

in Eat & Drink Partner

Silkworm Pizza – From April Fools’ Trick to Nutritious Menu Specialty

The pizza made with “great-grandma’s” heirloom silkworms recipe was an April Fools’ Day surprise that stunned the internet has a hidden story.

in Dishcovery

Society Cafe's Cơm Xá Xíu Fine-Tunes a Cantonese Classic With New Techniques

Inspired by a Cantonese classic, Society Cafe & Dining’s char siu pork is carefully seasoned and prepared over two days, while the accompanying daikon and radish were pickled from scratch. Put togethe...

in Food Culture

At Culinary Frank's Cozy Saigon Cafe, YouTube Food Comes to Life on the Plate

“Every restaurant is a miniature society,” says Phương Phạm (Frank Phạm), a Melbourne-based Vietnamese chef and famous YouTube food blogger who recently returned to Saigon to open his passion project,...

in Eat & Drink

Saigon’s Vibrant Charm and Energy Captured at RBar and Viet Kitchen

Can one long for Saigon, even when in Saigon? The metropolis’ international influences and connections mean one can find cuisines, products and aesthetics from just about everywhere in the world here....

in Dishcovery

A Mojito Made with Saigon’s Steamy Summer in Mind

Born in Cuba, mojitos have spread throughout the world and are particularly popular in tropical regions where the cocktail’s mint, lime juice, simple sugar and white rum prove particularly refreshing....

in In Plain Sight

As Science Advances and Stigma Fades, Quy Hòa Leprosy Village Seems Frozen in Place

Many of the images conjured by the word leprosy (bệnh phong) can be unsettling to some. Yet, the misunderstood disease exposes the capacity for human care and empathy. Quy Nhơn’s Quy Hoà lep...

Paul Christiansen

in Vietnam

In Bình Định, a Museum Retells Nguyễn Huệ's Glorious Life via Vivid Murals

About 45 kilometers from downtown Quy Nhơn stands the Quang Trung Museum (Bảo tàng Quang Trung), one of Vietnam’s finest museums.

in Snack Attack

The Good, the Fresh and the Crispy: Quy Nhơn's Wondrous Cuisine in 3 Dishes

A beautiful coastline, stunning rolling mountainscapes, and multiple historic vestiges are not the only merits of Quy Nhơn City.

Paul Christiansen

in Vietnam Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Quy Nhơn's Unique Take on Bánh Khọt and Peanut Sauce

You’ve probably never had bánh khọt like this before.

Paul Christiansen

in In Plain Sight

Notes From the Hiking Trail to Catch the Morning Sun in Quy Nhơn

Do you prefer a view of the beach or mountains?

Paul Christiansen

in Travel

Vignette: Letters to Hàn Mặc Tử

Quy Nhơn residents mentioned Hàn Mặc Tử with great pride and reverence whenever I mentioned enjoying reading and writing poems. 

in Eat & Drink

Experience Elevated Dining with Le Méridien Saigon's A La Carte Brunch and Set Lunch

Many variables determine what you want to find on your lunch plate. While you certainly must eat something, the particulars of how long you have free in your schedule, the company you are with, the mo...

Paul Christiansen

in Travel

An Awe-Inspiring Bird's-Eye View of Bình Định's Chăm Towers

What if memories were not collections of chemicals and electrical impulses stored in the fleshy recesses of a mind, but physical objects made of brick and stone?

in Dishcovery

Classic Foie Gras with a Saigon Street Food Twist at Latest Recipe

“I like making the foie gras best; it's famous,” said Latest Recipe's executive chef Phi Công in regard to the new a la carte menu items featured at the esteemed restaurant’s Sunday Brunch. Indeed, fo...

Adrien Jean

in Culture

In Phú Nhuận's Communal House, a Kỳ Yên Festival Right by the Train Track

The Kỳ Yên festival is the biggest annual event held at the Phú Nhuận communal house from the 16th to the 18th of the first lunar month.

Oliver Newman

in Asia

On Finding Flavors of Home in Takadanobaba, Tokyo's 'Vietnam Town'

A bánh mì stand to the left, signs for Bích Karaoke above an alley across the street, an open shopfront lined with bottles of Chin-Su chili sauce and G7 coffee sachets, a laid back restaurant where wa...

Khôi Phạm

in Quãng 8

Hanoi Indie Duo Limebócx Brings Tried-and-Trù Traditions to Young Ears

A grazing buffalo, frolicking water puppets, mystifying tam cúc cards, an insolent maiden in áo tứ thân, a rustic meal around cái mâm. These are just a few standout visuals that will haunt your brain ...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: In a 95-Year-Old House, Mết Coffee Sells Drinks, Cozy Conversations

It was a drizzly day. The chilliness and the weepy mood of Hanoi weather drenched me in an unnamed melancholy. I was ambling aimlessly on the street when I came across Mết, a coffee shop in ngõ Yên Th...

Uyên Đỗ

in Hanoi

The Rich History Behind One of Hanoi's 2 Remaining Chinese Guild Halls

With the changing gears of history, at times even the oldest layers of a thousand-year-old town must evolve to house new meanings.

Đồng Thanh Thủy

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Hanoi's Phố Vũ Thạnh Offers a Nice Egg in This Trying Time

“Is there any food we can eat for breakfast, afternoon snack and supper?”

Chris Humphrey

in Society

The Rustic Beauty of Hanoi's Red River Brick Factories

Living in a city as culturally rich and absorbing as Hanoi, it’s not unusual to discover new secrets in a place you thought you knew completely. The depth of the capital really is astounding. And yet,...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Xóm Hạ Hồi's 30-Year-Old Bún Thang Stands the Test of Time

If you peel through the peaceful residential areas around the Quang Trung and Trần Hưng Đạo crossroads, you might just chance upon Bún Thang 11 Hạ Hồi, a humble, household noodle spot.

Adrien Jean

in Culture

At Phước Hải's Lễ Hội Nghinh Ông, Everything Every Whale All at Once

Phước Hải is a fishing township in the south of Vietnam, a short ride away from Vũng Tàu.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Căng Tin Cafe, a Gateway to the Past for the City's New Youth

Hanoi’s café scene is saturated with cafés selling a vision of the past.

Linh Phạm

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Blue Crab and Beer for a Bodacious Snack on the Hanoi Sidewalk

Of all seafood in Vietnam, ghẹ (blue crab) is among the most expensive. Even at wholesale markets, these crustaceans can fetch from VND300,000 to 400,000 a kilogram and any buffet deal that boasts the...

in Parks & Rec

I Went Cloud-Hunting and Found Peace Atop Đà Lạt's Tea Hill

Northern California is blessed with serene nature. Growing up there, pathless trails and cloudy mountain peaks were my safe havens, and when returning home on break from college, it was a tradition to...

Léo-Paul Guyot

in In Plain Sight

Go Through Centuries of Ceramic History at Hanoi's Bát Tràng Museum

The Pottery Museum in Làng Gốm Bát Tràng (Bát Tràng Ceramics Village) showcases the cultural heritage of the village through its exhibits of the works of past and present artisans.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: A Blissful Fish Feast at Bún Cá Sâm Cây Si

As hot as it gets, Hanoi’s scorching summer is no match for delightful fish rolls and refreshing sour soup.

Oliver Newman

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Cozy up at Ẩn Cà Phê With Morning Coffees and Night Cocktails

In the Mood for Love, Wong Kar-wai’s elegantly restrained movie about married lovers resisting adultery, offers up a delicious cocktail of emotions. At least, that is the concept behind the drinks men...

Linh Phạm

in In Plain Sight

The Unbearable Delight of Watching a Live Football Match at Hàng Đẫy Stadium

“The government sells it for VND100,000. Just give me VND150,000. Gate 3, right in the center.” 

Khôi Phạm

in Culture

What to See, Taste, and Do If You Have a Free Morning in Tân Định

There’s not much you’ll need to do to persuade me to drive, walk, crawl, scuttle or skate along the Nhiêu Lộc-Thị Nghè Canal — I adore its shaded, tree-lined pavements that much.

Paul Christiansen

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Cà Phê Sữa and Cơm Tấm With a Side of Espionage History

Kimchi is not a common cơm tấm accouterment. The extra helping of chili pepper heat, palate-cleansing bitterness and cabbage leaf crunch doesn't taste out of place beside a fully loaded plate of broke...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Midnight Hủ Tiếu Only for Saigon's Most Patient Night Owls

As a Saigonese who has lived abroad for half of her life, I have a huge craving for hủ tiếu khô (dry noodles), my go-to breakfast meal and a dish my family always made sure to get on our way to my mot...

Uyên Đỗ

in Saigon

Inside the Sawdust Alley in D8 Where Old Furniture Goes to Get Repurposed

My lungs began to heave with raspy coughs as I ventured deeper into the alley of 124 Phạm Thế Hiển.

in Eat & Drink Partner

BARSON Balances Fine Dining with a Vibrant Bar Setting

No one thinks about the food when going to a club. But why not? Couldn’t an evening balance the extravagant and unexpected flavors associated with fine dining and the chill, carefree atmosphere create...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Tiệm Cơm Ninh Giang, a 'Secret' Hakka Feast Only for Those in the Know

I first heard about Tiệm Cơm Ninh Giang 寧江客家飯店  from some Hoa friends in the city.

in Culture

A Day in the Life of Phùng Hưng, a D5 Street With Two Personalities

Nestled in the historic Chợ Lớn section of District 5, Phùng Hưng Street runs from the canal along Võ Văn Kiệt through to Hồng Bàng. Within its length, the street has two distinct personalities.

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: From a Historic D5 Shophouse, An Duyên Serves up Tasty Chợ Lớn Classics

An Duyên Chợ Lớn transcends Chợ Lớn quán stereotypes of rustic mom-and-pops with rickety amenities to provide a comfortable dining experience, made memorable thanks to aesthetically pleasing décor and...

in Quãng 8

On Táo's Transformation From Rapper to Curator of Good Taste

"The artist can’t reflect the truths of life if they don’t live, can they?"

in Hotels

Centrally-Located Seclusion Awaits at Sedona Suites

One of Sedona Suite’s selling points is that the entrance is hard to find. No, really.

Adrien Jean

in Vietnam

A Visual Homage to the Water Buffalo's Practical and Symbolic Importance in Vietnam

The second animal sign in the 12-year cycle of the Vietnamese zodiac, trâu, has symbolic and practical importance in Vietnam.

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Saigoneer's Picks of Saigon's 5 Best Cafes to Poop At

What brings you to coffee shops? Novelty beverages, mellow playlists, a feeling of home, proximity, or just simply convenience — all are valid attributes that have endeared me to many of my favorite c...

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: We Found Huế's Roast Pork Chè in Saigon, but It's Complicated.

When the parent ingredients are such top-tier performers in their respective categories, it’s natural to feel disappointed that the resulting combination is so subpar.

in Culture

Learning About Life and Death From the Stories of Funeral Directors in Vietnam

Sitting down with Hương Thủy and Đức Thịnh, I was able to listen to a plethora of fascinating anecdotes about Vietnam’s funerary practices.

in Hotels

The Holiday Spirit is in the Air and on the Plates at Hôtel des Arts Saigon

Gingerbread houses, those delicious-looking cookie constructions are an unmistakable sign that the holiday season has arrived. While they originated in Germany hundreds of years ago independent of Chr...

in Travel

What to See in a Landlocked Country? How a Detour to Laos Made My Heart Feel Full.

Editor's note: This essay by Alex Tran won 1st place in the Editor's Choice category of Saigoneer's first-ever essay writing competition, "2 Years of Memories," in collaboration with Urbanist Travel. ...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Okachan Shokudo, a Comforting Japanese ‘Cơm Bình Dân’ in Hanoi

If there is a restaurant that is the antithesis of the biting cold of Hanoi, it is Okachan Shokudo.

in Resorts

Dim Sum, Tomahawk Ribeyes, Lobsters: Culinary Options Abounds at The Grand Ho Tram

People flock to The Grand Ho Tram for its myriad of entertainment options. To satiate the appetites of guests, the resort has spent a great deal of effort to ensure that its culinary options meet gues...

in Environment

The Nocturnal Thrill of Capturing Vietnam's Elegant Fauna in Wildlife Photography

For most people, walking in the jungle at night would sound like a bad idea. A lack of knowledge and many misbeliefs, unfortunately, create bad assumptions about the wilderness after dark. And snakes,...

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Bún Bò Đà Nẵng Will Change How You Feel About Bún Bò in Saigon

Have you ever wondered who named our food? Oftentimes I do, and I daydream of traveling back in time to those monumental moments in the past when a famous dish or ingredient earned its title to slap s...

Léo-Paul Guyot

in In Plain Sight

Amid Phố Cổ, the Unassuming Cultural Exchange Center Tells Stories of Hanoi's Heartland

In the heart of the Old Quarter, the Hanoi Cultural Exchange Center carries a rich repertoire of knowledge and stories of the city’s architecture and history.

Michael Tatarski

in Tech

How Going Digital Could Help Vietnam's Farmers Take Their Produce to the Next Level

In this digital age, farming, especially in developing countries like Vietnam, has maintained a general perception of being an analog, hands-on practice. 

in Vietnam Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: In Đà Nẵng, Dì Gái's Bún Chả Cá Is a Family Heirloom

Sometimes, for descendants of Central Vietnam, a bowl of steaming bún chả cá can even sooth the pain and misery of a storm-battered rainy season.

in Eat & Drink Partner

Fresh Seafood, Beautiful Views and Relaxed Environment Take Centerstage at Saigon Café Buffet

Located in the Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, Saigon Café is famous for its seafood buffet's fresh ingredients, talented chefs and cozy views of the heart of the city.

in Ănthology

A Singaporean-Vietnamese Couple Refreshes Hakka Offal Soup With Trứng Cuộn

When my mother, a native of Singapore’s oft-visited Chinatown, described a pork offal soup stall with meatballs that “tasted suspiciously like that vermicelli dish we had in Huế back in 2013,” I knew ...

in Quãng 8

Rắn Cạp Đuôi Collective's Only Rule in Music Is Having No Rule

To write any music interview, my formula is quite simple: start with the story of how they got into music, followed by their critical opinions on the field. There will always be a narrative that the m...

in Resorts

Entertainment Abounds at The Grand Ho Tram

Many of Vietnam’s resorts take advantage of the country’s stunning natural features to captivate their guests. Those that stand out not only offer plenty of interaction with their surrounding beaches ...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: The 'Tiny' Cafe That Contains Multitudes

Hidden down a quiet alley opposite the B-52 Victory Museum on Đội Cấn in Ba Đình District is the gateway to Tiny Cafe. Make sure you look carefully, as the sign is easily missed, and this isn’t somewh...

in Music & Arts

How Young Artists Are Bringing Mural Arts to Schools in Rural Vietnam

On their fifth journey off the beaten paths, Tô Đậm is heading to the highland of Ma Bó, Lâm Đồng Province for a new season of lessons, stories, and adventures previously unfolded.

Linh Phạm

in In Plain Sight

Hanoi's Literature Museum Is Not Neglected, but It's Not Thriving Either

From the side road of Âu Cơ Street, I turned into ngõ 275.

Khôi Phạm

in Quãng 8

Hồ Trâm Anh Writes Music for Those Who Walk City Streets Yearning for the Open Sky

When I begin my interview with Hồ Trâm Anh, a light shower starts sprinkling over Saigon’s overcast maudlin sky. I apologize if any errant pitter-patter might distract our call, but Trâm Anh brushes i...

in Travel

Beach Camping and Bamboo Rafting in Northern Vietnam's Largest Wetland

An overnight stay in Xuân Thủy National Park, Nam Định Province means potential bug bites, snake encounters and pungent ocean air, but also a rewarding quest into the wild wetlands of northern Vietnam...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: A Cafe-Snack Bar Hybrid in Bình Thạnh Offers Portals to Japanese Nostalgia

Bình Thạnh’s Ward 19 is snuggled between Xô Viết Nghệ Tĩnh and Nguyễn Hữu Cảnh, creating a surprisingly quiet area just across from District 1. As a neighborhood, it offers an eclectic mix of local an...

in Travel

All by Myself in Sapa: How I Learnt That Traveling Alone Doesn't Have to Be Lonely

One item on my “bucket list” is a journey to discover an exciting new land on a solo trip. It’s not a simple aspiration so I didn’t think that I would get a chance to accomplish it any time soon, but ...

Elise Luong

in Music & Arts

Q&A: Nguyễn Quí Đức on Tadioto, Zone 9, and How He Fell for Hanoi's Charms

Countless are the number of hours Hanoi creatives have spent sipping whisky and contemplating the world at the famous drinking hole that is Tadioto.

Adrien Jean

in Culture

In Ninh Thuận's Chăm Community, a Joyous Celebration of Katê, the Year's Most Important Festival

The Katê festival is the oldest and most unique festival of the Chăm ethnic minority and has been recognized as a national intangible cultural heritage by Vietnam's Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tou...

in Eat & Drink

Hôtel des Arts Saigon’s Brunch is a Feast to be Enjoyed like Artwork in a Gallery

Works of art are often appreciated for the sum of their parts. A painting’s subject matter, the artist’s legacy and the context in which it was produced can be just as important as the aesthetics of t...

in Music & Arts

The Hanoian Artisan Carving Intricate Reliefs From Leather to Make Book Covers

The enduring pages in our history deserve book covers that match their significance.

Paul Christiansen

in Culture

Need a Sign From the Universe? Lương Hữu Khánh Street Has Every Color, Shape, and Size.

Saigon is filled with addresses you aren’t looking for, announcements not aimed at you and signs for businesses you have no plans to frequent. Sign street demands delving into the oft-ignored.

in Parks & Rec

Losing Myself (and My Work Stress) in the Wacky World of Jazz Dance

Since I started my foray into jazz dance, the most common question I’ve gotten has been “What, you can dance to jazz?”

Paul Christiansen

in Culture

In Đà Nẵng, a Vintage Money Aficionado Forgoes Professorship for Life in the Night Market

What gives one’s life meaning? For some, it’s faith, family or art. For Trần Văn Nam, it’s money, but not in the way you probably imagine.

in Vietnam

From North to South, Glimpses of Street Life in Vietnam in the Early 1990s

If there’s a thing this writer remembers distinctly about the early 1990s, it would be nothing, because I was barely a person that could eat and survive by myself.

Paul Christiansen

in Vietnam Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: In Đà Nẵng, Bánh Xèo Bà Dưỡng's Sauce Is Good Enough to Drink

The secret is the sauce. And the sauce is a secret. The owners of Đà Nẵng’s Bánh Xèo Bà Dưỡng refuse to reveal the recipe for the rich, meaty, and multi-faceted sauce that falls somewhere between hex ...

in Culture

Meet Chú Hai Bạc, Saigon's Veteran Vespa and Lambretta 'Doctor'

Even in his 70s, Phan Văn Bạc — better known among friends and fans as chú Hai Bạc — is still getting his hands dirty every day working with engines, screws and bolts to take care of vintage Vespas an...

Linh Phạm

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Bud'mo, a Ukrainian Welcome as Warm as a Shot of Nastoyka

“O sultan, Turkish devil and damned devil’s kith and kin, secretary to Lucifer himself…You will not, you son of a bitch, make subjects of Christian sons; we've no fear of your army, by land and by sea...

in Arts & Culture

Vietnamese Masters Contribute to Hôtel des Arts Saigon's 1930s Indochine Aesthetics and Timeless Grace

An antique phone placed in the elegant ground-floor lounge at Hôtel des Arts Saigon, Mgallery invites visitors to Call back in time. Paintings by esteemed Vietnamese artists from bygone decades i...

Linh Phạm

in Hanoi

Be Gay, Do Pride: Hanoi Pride Week Ends on Cheery Notes Last Sunday

Last Sunday, Hanoi Pride Week 2022 came to a conclusion with thousands of people joining in the festivities.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Café Slow Cultivates a Natural Habitat for Creature Comforts

It's incredibly challenging to set yourself apart in Ho Chi Minh City's overcaffeinated café scene. The city's narrow streets and hẻms are brimming with beans.

in Vietnam

Huế Announces Plan to Transform Hồ Thủy Tiên Waterpark Into Public Space

Authorities are planning to turn the long-abandoned Hồ Thủy Tiên Waterpark into a public space with the construction of a walking path, lighting, drainage system and water supply.

Linh Phạm

in In Plain Sight

How a Plane Carcass Became a Museum and Community Hangout in Hanoi

The massive chunk of metal greeted me as soon as I stepped through the gate.

in Saigoneer Getaways

Recreation, Relaxation and Adventure in Đà Nẵng

Serene nature? Thrilling activities? Cultural insights? World-class cuisine and vibrant nightlife? Everyone has different priorities when going on vacation, and a few special places in Vietnam can acc...

Uyên Đỗ

in Saigon

A Saigon Restaurant Poisoned Dozens of Stray Cats. What Happened to Those That Survived?

Almost 10 months ago, my life was turned upside down as our household welcomed a new feline member.

Uyên Đỗ

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Secret Realm of Good Vibes Behind the Doors of Passengers Cafe

Like any person born after the year 1990, I am chronically affected by the condition of dawdling at a coffee shop for a supposed boost in productivity and “the vibes” when the clock strikes close to a...

in Eat & Drink

Pasteur Street Brewing Company’s New Taproom Has a Story to Tell

“Wow, this is a colorful one!” we exclaimed upon approaching the bright building along the canal separating Districts 1 and Phú Nhuận. Large red and blue pipes reminiscent of the geometric designs fou...

in Quãng 8

Meet Humm, the Music Collective Blending Soft Tunes With Orchestral Instruments

Though palpably yearning in nature, Humm's music invites listeners to embark on a journey where healing is the quintessential experience.

Linh Phạm

in Film & TV

Short Film 'Don't' Dreams of a World With an All-Asian Crime-Fighting Squad

One day, Sally Tran realized that many of her friends in New York City were going to self-defense classes and buying weapons to protect themselves in the city they call home. 

Elise Luong

in Culture

The Peculiar Gender Dynamics of Hanoi's Male-Dominated Cờ Tướng Scene

On a sunset wander through Hanoi, you may be surprised by the peculiar sight of men haphazardly perched in nooks and crannies playing the ancient game of xiangqi.

Uyên Đỗ

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Quán Ba Hí's Comfort Food Is Perfect for Eating Your Feelings Away

I've always found comfort food to be the most authentic passage to experience any type of global cuisine. Yet, when I try to find the word for it in my native tongue Vietnamese, the semantics just see...

in Vietnam

On the Tourist Trail Across Vietnam in 1996

In 1996, it had been one year since Vietnam officially joined ASEAN, the first legitimate volume of Doraemon was released, and some of us at Saigoneer were actually alive.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: From Nam Định, a Piquant Bánh Đa With Golden Fried Fish

On Quán Thánh Street, a lovely couple enhances their hometown’s specialty, bánh đa cua, with a fishy touch. Adding fried fish to bánh đa cua is a rather uncommon combination, but it helps their r...

in Music & Arts

OHQUAO Lifts Young Designers to the Forefront of Vietnam's Creative Presence

“What we wanted was to bring iconic images of Vietnam to a global audience — metal doors, plastic stools, cà phê sữa and at the same time use these as tools for people to become connected,” said Hoa P...

in Tech

From the Lab of Forever Wheelchair, Hope for Vietnam's Handicapped Animals

The ability to roam and frolic around is essential for our canine and feline companions' well-being, but too often, it can become a privilege for cats and dogs living with disability and immobility fr...

in Ton-sur-Ton

Great Vietnam Resurrects Nguyễn-Era Fashion, One Traditional Costume at a Time

In the last four to five years, ancient Vietnamese costumes have gained more visibility, becoming a welcome sight among young locals thanks to the efforts to reproduce and promote historic fashion fro...

Adrien Jean

in Music & Arts

A Mosaic of Vietnam's Landscapes Through the Windows of the North-South Train

Traveling on the Reunification Express from Saigon to Hanoi feels like a ride through history and time.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: The Peculiarity of a Coffee Sanctuary With No Menu and No Address

"SOLitude" — At first glance, the word conjures a sense of melancholic privateness in my ever-anxious soul. But not in a pessimistic way, fortunately.

in Vietnam

Slices of Life in Saigon, Huế, Hanoi in 1989 on Film

What is it about coming across old photos that tugs on our heartstrings so much, even when they depict a time when some of us weren’t alive yet?

Tuyết Nhi

in Saigon

Exploring Chợ Quán Asylum, Saigon’s Oldest Prisoner-of-War Camp

In a secluded corner of Saigon’s Bệnh viện Nhiệt đới, or Hospital for Tropical Diseases, a prison continues its century-long existence hidden from public memory and discourse.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: A Spicy Bún Lòng Cá From Hải Phòng That Takes Guts to Try

Út Hà Quán looks nothing like the kind of traditional Hanoi street food eatery that makes it to glossy magazines and world-famous food channels. There’s no grumpy grandma, no mold on the walls an...

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Indonesia's Ayam Penyet Is a Smashing Celebration of Spices

The most straightforward definition by which to explain ayam penyet to the Vietnamese layperson is perhaps “cơm gà Indo.” It’s technically not wrong: the dish has rice and chicken, and originates from...

in Travel

The Punishing, Breathtaking, and Fulfilling 14 Days in Nepal to Reach Everest Base Camp

Our trek to Everest Base Camp from Lukla begins on the first days of summer. Just two weeks into May, throngs of mountain climbers have already congregated here, despite the bitter cold, striving to c...

Linh Pham

in Culture

Banana Island Is a Peaceful Oasis Amid Hanoi, but for How Much Longer?

As the xe ôm is about to reach the halfway point of Long Biên Bridge, I tell him to stop.

in Culture

An Exploration of H'Mông Fashion Through the Eyes of a Young H'Mông Curator

Combining elements of the traditional and the modern, Hnubflower and her collaborators have brought to life a project to recreate the fashion of many H’Mông communities in provinces across Vietnam.

in Culture

The Collector Preserving Decades of Saigon History, From Vintage Brands to Pandemic Memories

"A Việt Kiều customer living in France paid me a visit. She looked at my sofa and started tearing up because its design was so similar to one she had in her childhood home. She said she missed home an...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Cafe Yên, Where the Line Between Coffee Shop and Alley Blurs

Yên (adj): quiet, unmoved.

in Quãng 8

From Indulgent Sadness to Renewed Optimism: The Evolution of Nhạc Của Trang

Over the last few years, Ngô Minh Trang (better known as Nhạc của Trang) has become a household name of the local indie scene thanks to a repertoire of melancholy, poignant songs. This year, after tak...

in Travel

A Merry Morning Over the Fish Markets and Salt Fields of Phan Rang

I live in Đà Lạt, so the most direct route to the coast brings me to Phan Rang, which is where I often go for the beach and seafood.   

in Education

Local Businesses Find Flexible Solutions at MyStorage

The sleek aesthetic of a bakery specializing in meticulously crafted high-end pastries would be ruined by stacks of packaging stored between the bright display case and the open kitchen.

Uyên Đỗ

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: A Thai Feast on a Hẻm Pavement, With Vietnamese Fusion Twists

While Thailand and Vietnam have long been perpetual rivals in the football arena, at this streetside Hẻm Gem, the two cultures forge a harmonious relationship.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: A Classic Thanh Trì-Style Bánh Cuốn That Took a Century to Perfect

Bánh Cuốn Bà Hoành is nearly a century old, and both the eatery’s name and the authenticity of the food they serve stem from the same source: the culinary wisdom of Grandma Hồng.

in Parks & Rec

How Exotic Pole Dance Challenges Both Personal Limits and Gender Stereotypes

Flashing flares of neon lights hug the body of a dancer who’s spinning around a pole in the raucous thrum of music and sensuous gasps. In the mind of the average Vietnamese, pole dancing is often asso...

Govi Snell

in Environment

In Đà Lạt, Greenhouses Revolutionize Farming, but at What Environmental Cost?

Plastic greenhouses in the city of Đà Lạt may protect farmers from the impacts of erratic weather, but the environmental toll of agri-plastics is building in the agriculture-dependent region.

in Vietnam

Mang Thít, Vĩnh Long's 'Kingdom of Brick Kilns,' Is on Its Last Legs

Along the rivers and canals of Mang Thít, clouds of smoke from the Mekong Delta’s last brick kilns languidly stream into the air.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Hide From the Monsoon Rain at Đặng Thị Nhu's Lost & Found Cafe

Lost & Found Café is a newly opened sister establishment to the popular Lost & Found Bar. Both adopt a pre-1975 Saigon vibe that I, as a Gen-Z Saigoneer who is nostalgic for old Saigon, immediate...

in Ton-sur-Ton

In Seattle, a Vietnamese Jewelry Maker Finds Comfort in the Quirky and Queer

The big, bold, and fun accessories with an air of mystique that Đinh Nguyễn Song Khanh and their spouse, Meiyin, create under their brand XYZ reflect their definition of queer fashion in the US, where...

Paul Christiansen

in In Plain Sight

Retracing Biệt Động Sài Gòn Hideouts, Where Grenades Were Just Below Your Feet

Elements of Saigon’s wartime espionage efforts once relegated to secret basements, hidden crawl spaces and elaborate double lives lurk throughout downtown to this day.

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: 60 Years of Guangdong-Style Chinese Food at Chợ Cũ's Chuyên Ký

Besides being the “it” place to obtain imported goods, Saigon’s chợ cũ, or Old Market, is also a treasure trove of hidden eateries.

Tuyết Nhi

in Saigon

In a D6 Hẻm, Saigon's Last Remaining Broom-Making 'Village'

Nestled in a hẻm on Phạm Phú Thứ Street, District 6 is Saigon’s last remaining broom-making village.

Paul Christiansen

in Loạt Soạt

How to Navigate Coming Out to Your Parents With the Help of 3 Fairy Tales

Sometimes stories can articulate what we cannot put into our own words. Fairy tales can function as long-form proverbs that allow people to identify and pass on important values, expectations and expe...

Paul Christiansen

in In Plain Sight

Saigon's Mobile Laminators Preserve ID Cards, Licenses, and Occasionally, Memories Too

How much would you pay for a memory? What is it worth to ensure that you’ll forever be able to recall a certain moment of happiness, important gathering, or achievement? What if I told you that all yo...

Linh Phạm

in Parks & Rec

Left Foot Brake, Right Foot Gas: Hanoi's Go-Kart Track Is Fast and Glorious

Moments before the engine started, I became aware of the fact that just a few centimeters of metal and plastic separated my butt and the asphalt.

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Eggs? On My Bánh Cuốn? It's More Likely Than You Think.

The simplicity of an egg is an underrated beauty that we often take for granted.

in Quãng 8

The Trio of 7UPPERCUTS Exist for the Love of Punk and One Another

Founded in 2017, 7UPPPERCUTS signifies a new generation of musicians who are teeming with youthful and creative energy. 7UP’s music, filled with the rebellious spirit of punk rock, not only delivers h...

in Sports

Here's What a Night of Post-Football Đi Bão Looks Like in Saigon and Hanoi

In Vietnam, the dynamic between football and đi bão is not much different from monsoon rain and garden mushrooms.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Three Generations of Noodles on the Pavement at Bún Riêu Hồng Phúc

Connecting Hòe Nhai and Hàng Đậu, Hồng Phúc is one of the shortest alleys in Hanoi. However, this small alley is a paradise for people who love bún, especially if one is craving a meticulously prepare...

in Culture

How Châu Đốc's Chăm Muslim Community Celebrates Ramadan

Vietnam's recent four-day holiday coincided with observations of Ramadan this year.

in Snack Attack

Just a Love Letter to Saigon's Tropical Fruits

How lovely to have taste buds and to have tasty things to eat.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Just a Short Walk From Bến Thành, a Hearty Bún Chả for Lunch

In his essay collection Hà Nội 36 Phố Phường (The 36 Streets of Hanoi), Thạch Lam famously writes "Ngàn năm bửu vật đất Thăng Long / Bún chả là đây có phải không?" The couplet compares ...

in Development

At Thủ Thiêm 2 Bridge's Launch, Exuberance and Selfies Galore

After seven years under construction, the Thủ Thiêm 2 Bridge officially opened for traffic at 5pm, April 28. This was a much-anticipated project for Saigoneers, with over VND3.1 trillion in investment...

Linh Phạm

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: At Ốc Cô Nhung, an Affordable Five-Course Banquet of Snails and Snacks

If there is a restaurant in Hanoi that embodies the proverb “good wine needs no bush,” it’s Ốc cô Nhung. Though in this case, instead of wine, it is snails.

in Parks & Rec

Wind, Sun and the Ocean: The Aerial Thrills of Paragliding Over Đà Nẵng

Paragliding means heaving in a lungful of air, bracing against a gale’s resistance, letting one’s mind ponder the vastness of the ocean below, floating in the middle of the sky, and — for me this time...

in Travel

Vọng Cảnh, the Picturesque Hill in Huế That Even Emperors Cherished

The poetic Hương River flows calmly, the fresh air and breeze whisper through the lush pine forest, a coming sunset colors the peaceful natural spectacle. All of this can be experienced during a late-...

in Vietnam

Inside the Backbreaking Work of Quảng Ninh's Coal Miners

“I am a person with two skin tones.”

in Music & Arts

Local Photographer Recreates Mai Trung Thứ Paintings in Fashion Shoot

In hopes of recreating the paintings of silk master Mai Trung Thứ, photographer Minh Sơn and his collaborators have done something extraordinary with this photo collection. The resulting works bear st...

in Music & Arts

Mythology, History, and Supernaturals Mingle in the World of 'Lĩnh Nam Chích Quái'

Lĩnh Nam Chích Quái was one of Vietnam’s first anthologies written in Hán characters in prose form. It’s a collection of 22 folk tales, mythologies, and legends surrounding the origin story of the Vie...

in Culture

Handbook Project Empowers Local Communities to Write Their Own Cultural Narratives

“No one could sing our song but ourselves.” — Inrasra, Chăm poet and anthropologist.

Paul Christiansen

in Film & TV

Review: In 'Đêm Tối Rực Rỡ!,' Watch a Fraught Family Disintegrate During a Funeral

If a family is like a broken leg, does healing it require a more painful break? Đêm Tối Rực Rỡ! (The Brilliant Darkness!) grapples with this question by thrusting characters into a situation that expo...

in Food Culture

Pack a Basket, Fill up Your Water Bottle, It's Sugarcane Harvest Season in Đắk Lắk

In March, at early dawn in M'Drắk, long baskets follow farmers to sugarcane farms to bring back wealth. The people here were in the midst of a sweaty and sweet season.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Cô Thủy and 25 Years of Breakfast Bò Né in D4

Historically, District 4 has been known for snail and barbecue restaurants. As a long-term resident, I suggest it should also be famous for having the most delicious bò né place as Bò Né Thanh Tuyền d...

Brian Letwin

in Parks & Rec

Slugging It Out at Saigon’s Baseball Cage

For much of my adult life, in the months from February to October, my mood was dictated by the results of New York Mets games. 

Khôi Phạm

in Dishcovery

Naengmyeon, the Korean Cold Noodles to Ward Off the Heat of Summer

As Saigon inches towards the hottest months of the year, I find myself shying away from steaming hot soups while craving a little cooling treat to ward off the heat. Luckily for Saigon’s foodies, Dist...

Linh Pham

in Parks & Rec

House Dance Hanoi Teaches You How to Free the Body

I stood on the top floor of a building on Khâm Thiên Street, feeling grateful for the cold air. I came out here to take a break from the other side of the floor, which was divided into three rooms — t...

in Travel

The Charm of Hòn Yến, Where Coral-Watching Doesn't Involve Diving

Every year, from May to August, when the water reaches its lowest levels at Hòn Yến, a “jungle” of vibrant coral reefs and other marine creatures rises to the surface.

Paul Christiansen

in Travel

On the Hunt for Colorful Murals in Đà Lạt's Hilly Hẻms

Was color a casualty of COVID-19? Along with the freedom to gather, to attend live concerts and travel, did the pandemic rob us of opportunities to fully appreciate color?

in Society

Photography Project Shows Hanoi Through the Eyes of Migrant Workers

Some came from the mountains, some were born near the sea — all have come to Hanoi to make a living. They are the migrant workers of this city, yet to them Hanoi is more than just a place to work. Thr...

Michael Tatarski

in Environment

Huế's Fantastic Herbs and Where to Find Them, Now in Book Form

Have you ever walked past a plant and wondered "Hey, I wonder what that could do?"

in Environment

Ever Wonder What Happens to Your Plastic Bags? Ask Vietnam's Ve Chai Army.

Lacking an effective official scheme, Hanoi relies on an army of informal workers to recycle its waste — a situation that hasn't changed over the last four decades.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Tân Định's Tried-and-True Bánh Canh Cua for a Late Breakfast

Bánh canh, at times described as Vietnamese udon or even “mouse-tail noodles,” is a great mystery on its own. Etymologically speaking, bánh canh translates to “soup-cake,” and these thick, cylindrical...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: In Warmth and Good Drinks, an Amiable Cafe's Spirit Lives On

How would you feel if everything about your favorite spot suddenly changed one day? Would the same attachment still stand? Those were the questions that popped into my head the afternoon I paid my vis...

in Quãng 8

Linh Ha's Ethereal Vocal Harmonies Push the Boundaries of Hanoi's Electronic Music Scene

When Linh Ha hosts Xom Nhac, Hanoi Social Club’s regular live music showcase, her electronic instruments, all sleek plastic and snaking black wires, lie on top of a silky floral scarf. The scarf is sp...

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Curry Shika and 12 Years of Making Memories in Saigon

Unlike a normal human, there is a chance that my body is not 70% water, but 70% curry; and a good 50% of that might actually be Japanese curry.

in Literature

How Indie Book Publisher Bar De Force Marries Art, Literature and Translation

“A collision of literature and art on the pages” is the descriptor that Bar De Force, a Vietnamese independent press, gives itself.

in Architecture

Vĩnh Long's Rich Architectural Heritage Tells Stories of Taste, Time, and Turbulence

Vĩnh Long is a land of rich historical values located in the Mekong Delta. Here, generations of residents from diverse cultural backgrounds have been living, working, and interacting across key milest...

Uyên Đỗ

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: In Saigon, Go Mô Rứa for a Well-Crafted Huế Culinary Feast?

In the Huế dialect, mô rứa is a phrase one might encounter often in daily conversation. When a Huế resident asks “Mi đi mô rứa?” they might be wondering where you’re heading.

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Dream of the 2010s Is Alive at Pacey Cupcakes

Pick your favorite cupcake flavor; perhaps a pitcher of hot fragrant tea too. Ascend the dizzyingly steep flight of stairs. Mind your head. Tread gently on the wooden attic floor. There your friends a...

Linh Pham

in Food Culture

For 2 Decades, a Hanoi Family Has Kept the Fire of the Bánh Chưng Pot Burning

Much like the peach blossom or the lucky money envelope, bánh chưng is a staple part of Tết.

in Hanoi

For Hanoi's Đào Vendors, Sleeping in Tents Outside Is Part of the Job

Some kumquat and peach blossom sellers on the streets of Hanoi have resorted to sleeping in tents to guard their trees.

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: In D6, Oyster Omelette, Porridge and Bột Chiên for the Soul

“He was a bold man that first ate an oyster,” satirist Jonathan Swift wrote in the 1700s. Famously fearful of the now-prized bivalves, Swift eventually grew to appreciate their briny, ocean-forward es...

in Snack Attack

What We Talk About When We Talk About Tết Snacks

While Tết is filled with many traditions, perhaps nothing is more central to the holiday than the food that families prepare and share together.

Chris Humphrey

in Culture

At Hanoi's Thousand-Year-Old Flute Kite Festival, Melodies and Prayers Cross the Sky

Passed down by village forefathers since the Dinh Dynasty, Ba Duong Noi Village’s kite festival has become a source of pride for the local community. With three bamboo flutes attached to each kite, it...

Uyên Đỗ

in Music & Arts

A Vietnamese French Artist Reunites With His Own Roots Through Painting

On display at Thảo Điền’s Ngõ Art Gallery last year, the watercolor painting exhibition “Dream” is the conclusion of a decades-long artistic journey that has led a French national to learn more about ...

in Music & Arts

'In Art We Trust,' a Propaganda Art Exhibition for Gender Equality

Last weekend, Heritage Space and Ơ Kìa Hà Nội held the exhibition “In Art We Trust” — a collection of propaganda art on gender equality — at the Goethe Institute.

Paul Christiansen

in In Plain Sight

Finding Fun and Revelation Aboard Saigon's Wayward Waterbus

Cement, clay, clapboard, spackle, rebar, piping, plaster smears, paint drips, pencil scrawlings: to witness the rise of a building, observe its innards, is to marvel at the pretense of an ego, for wha...

in Society

For VBA Player Nguyễn Phú Hoàng, Family and Health Are What Matters Most

For fans of Vietnam's basketball league, the name Nguyễn Phú Hoàng is most likely a familiar one. The Hanoi-born-and-raised point guard was well-known in the local streetball community long before the...

in Music & Arts

The Graceful Rhythms of Áo Dài Through the Lens of Chiron Duong

Dương Quang Đạt, better known as Chiron Duong, is a Vietnamese fine art photographer. One day, his foreign friends asked him about áo dài, and he realized that he hadn’t worked much with this national...

in Food Culture

A Feast for Your Eyes, Ears and Soul in Culinary Frank's ASMR Cooking

Based in Melbourne, a Vietnamese chef-turned-YouTuber has been cooking up a delicious storm of homey dishes and global cuisines imbued with ASMR, inspiring home cooks to go on culinary adventures in t...

Uyên Đỗ

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: In the Mood for Lẩu? A Ngưu Offers Hong Kong Vibes and Tasty Bites.

I visit Tiệm Lẩu A Ngưu on a rare wintry Saturday evening in Saigon, the perfect occasion to fill one’s stomach with warm broth, noodles, and a host of other tasty accouterments.

in Architecture

Tản Mạn Kiến Trúc Propels the Architecture Discourse Into the Age of Social Media

Architecture Excursions - Tản Mạn Kiến Trúc is a grassroots media project founded by a group of young Vietnamese who share a simple goal: to shed light on Vietnam’s vast and often undiscussed architec...

Uyên Đỗ

in Music & Arts

Have an Interest in Creating? Saigon's Ươm Art Hub Welcomes All.

“There’s nothing much to say of Ươm except for the fact that it’s a collective of zany 20-somethings aspiring to do something that one might sort of categorize as ‘creative.’” — This is how Ươm Art Hu...

in Music & Arts

Inside Á Space's Residency Program Where Emerging Artists Shine

Founded in May 2018, Á Space offers a safe haven for burgeoning young Vietnamese artists, offering them a platform to actualize their ideas while inviting them to participate in Hanoi’s contemporary a...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: A Salted Coffee in Gạt Tàn Is Not What It Sounds Like

Is it not just the weirdest combination ever, coffee and salt?

in Saigon

Public Bike Service Finally Launches in Saigon After Week of Delay

After an unexplained delay, Saigon's first public bike rental system launched today.

in Music & Arts

A Photographer's Quest to Document Vietnam's Provinces From Two Angles

Hanoi-based photographer Justin Mott has taken a unique approach to depicting Vietnam in his ongoing photo series.

in Music & Arts

'The White Distance' Ruminates on the Pandemic Gaps Within Ourselves

The final exhibition of Heritage Space's annual contemporary international art exchange project, "Month of Art Practice - MAP 2021," will be on display in Hanoi until December 12.

Uyên Đỗ

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: One Bowl, Two Noodle Dishes, and Heaps of Hometown Glory

On the slope connecting Binh Thanh and Phu Nhuan districts lives a small pocket of Quang Nam culinary spirits — in the form of “two-in-one” noodles.

Mầm

in Music & Arts

Graffiti Artist Nguyễn Tấn Lực Is Serious About Changing Public Opinion of Street Art

As an art form deeply rooted in the streets, graffiti embodies the liberation of creativity from strict societal framing. But like other street creations, it’s never free from public scrutiny due to i...

in Hanoi

[Photos] Dilapidated and Abandoned, Hồ Tây's 'Floating Castles' Are Finally Dismantled

After almost five years of rotting in abandonment, a few of the cruise boats on West Lake are finally being dismantled.

in Ton-sur-Ton

A Gia Lai Entrepreneur Brings Her Hometown's Brocade Art to Modern Jewelry

Vũ Thị Thanh Vân had a simple wish: she wanted to find a well-crafted brocade gift for a friend but the only items she could find were generic, run-of-the-mill fillers sold at tourist sites. Thus bega...

in Travel

All Aboard the Languorous Train From Hanoi to Saigon

The train connecting Vietnam’s largest cities takes 35 hours. Yet even after the first time I finished the trip, I was already coming up with excuses for why I needed to do it again. For me, the journ...

in Quãng 8

Not Just Tender and Unostentatious, Mạc Mai Sương Is a Multi-Faceted Gem

Mạc Mai Sương, with her endearing curly hair and warm tone of voice, has been on heavy rotation in our playlists since she released ‘Mơ,’ ‘Hoa,’ and ‘Mưa.’ But upon delving deeper, one would realize t...

in Music & Arts

A Striking Tapestry of Emotions in the Exhibition 'Postcards From the Pandemic'

“Postcards From the Pandemic,” a community exhibition organized by Work Room Four and Hanoi Grapevine, is on display in Hanoi from November 10 to 23. After days of seeking public contributions, the e...

in Parks & Rec

In a Schoolyard, a Close-Knit Community Spearheads Saigon's Archery Scene

Laser-focused gazes, shiny bows, colorful targets, and looking cool as hell: these are the components of a picture-perfect post one might find on the Instagram of any budding archer. But social media ...

in Society

Meet the High School Students Leading the Fight Against Hanoi’s Food Waste

High school pupils are perhaps not who you’d expect to see running an established volunteer organization in a capital city. When it comes to tackling food waste and shortages, however, a group of youn...

in Vietnam

After Each Flood, Hoi An Picks Itself up, Just Like It Has Always Done

Every year, Vietnam braces for dozens of tropical storms coming from the East Sea. Localities along the coast in central Vietnam have to bear devastating destruction caused by Mother Earth whenever se...

in Quãng 8

Vũ Thanh Vân Makes Staying at Home Seem Effortlessly Cool

Vũ Thanh Vân is not a new name among indie music lovers, as she's well-known for her soothing voice in past singles like ‘Tori,’ ‘Hát Ru’ or ‘Lấy Chồng.’ When I finally meet Vân, I feel her quiet pres...

Uyên Đỗ

in Environment

A Factory Where 'Dead Plastics' Are Reborn as Contemporary Furniture

Saigoneer arrived at PLASTICPeople’s factory on a Friday afternoon after a long-winded ride on National Highway 1A. The sides of the road we took there were casually strewn with unpruned bushes, depos...

in Travel

Just 50km From Hanoi, Đường Lâm Village Is a Charming Historical Relic

If one were to strike out west from Hanoi and follow the Red River for some 50 kilometers, there they will find Đường Lâm Village — a quintessence of rural Vietnam.

in Culture

Praying for Good Weather, Bac Giang-Style

My friends said that they were going to a festival which happens every four years, and that it would be great for photographs. I knew nothing more.

in Music & Arts

Our Memories of Vietnam, Transformed Into Lego Creations by Collector Hoàng Đặng

Đặng Huy Hoàng is a Hanoi-based industrial designer. He loves building custom scenes with Lego, and has created many Vietnam-themed model sets on his social media accounts.

in Music & Arts

In 'Hà Nội Bị Say Cà Phê,' a Tribute to the House Dancers of Lenin Park

Although house dance has its origin in nightclubs, the members of House Dance Hanoi (HDH) community don’t necessarily need to go to clubs to dance.

in Health

Into the Storm: Saigon's Outbreak Through the Eyes of a Frontline Volunteer

“The best way to overcome fear is to face it,” 33-year-old Hương Nguyễn thought when she decided to volunteer as a frontline worker during Saigon’s most deadly weeks of the pandemic.

Elise Luong

in Music & Arts

Meet Little Peanut, the Star of Hanoi's Experimental Puppetry Performances

Last year, on a fine autumn day, I was lucky to witness Little Peanut taking her first steps in the attic-cum-rehearsal-studio of the Hanoi based experimental theater group Mắt Trần Ensemble.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Kosmos Serves Carefully Made Drinks With a Side of Human Connection

“Do you know the difference between ‘Universe’ and ‘Cosmos’?” Linh, Kosmos' owner and barista, asks me.

Uyên Đỗ

in Culture

The Mud-Tastic Fun of An Giang's Cattle Race Festival

Every year when the 8th lunar month comes around, people from different walks of life gather in the land of Seven Mountains (Bay Nui) to immerse themselves in the jubilant atmosphere of the bare,...

Chris Humphrey

in Society

Q&A: Blue Dragon Co-CEO Skye Maconachie on How the Pandemic Affects Vietnam's Most Vulnerable

Saigoneer talks to Skye Maconachie, Co-CEO of Blue Dragon Children’s Foundation, a respected, Hanoi-based NGO known for rescuing victims of human trafficking and supporting street kids in the capital....

in Society

Two People, 54 Ethnic Groups, One Photo at a Time

Through their photography project, Vietnam the People, Alden Anderson and Nguyễn Thị Yến Trinh have documented most of the 54 officially recognized ethnic groups in Vietnam.

Paul Christiansen

in Snack Attack

What's the Deal With Cơm Tấm-Flavored Potato Chips?

A quirky legend surrounds the invention of the potato chip, and its identity has only gotten odder over the years.

in Culture

How to Make a Bamboo Basket Boat, as Demonstrated by Phú Yên Artisans

As part of the sweltering south-central coast, Phu Yen Province has cultivated strong roots in the arts of gathering and rearing seafood.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: At Đống Đa's Gác Miên Cafe, a Midsummer's Dream

“Gác" means attic, but “Miên,” on the other hand, is something almost untranslatable, simply because there is no word in English that can fully encapsulate its essence.

in Music & Arts

How a Hanoi Collective Found Audio-Visual Beauty in Bamboo and Red River Soil

Traditional music in Vietnam is a complex fabric woven of many threads. Some strands extend hundreds of kilometers across the country and others reach across borders and oceans to nearby neighbors.

in Music & Arts

The Artist Making a Miniature Saigon Out of Lego Blocks

If a bowl of hủ tiếu were the size of a Lego brick, how many hủ tiếu would you have?

Elise Luong

in Music & Arts

Can Street Art Help Restore One of Hanoi's Poorest Communities?

Can street art lead to urban restoration? Or is it wilful gentrification? In February 2020, the Phuc Tan Public Art Project officially opened — the work on display offers engaging art and stirs up int...

Uyên Đỗ

in Music & Arts

The Zoologist Who Makes Animal Origami out of Vietnam's Banknotes

What if you could make art with just VND200?

in Society

In Pre-Pandemic Central Vietnam, the Stages of Life Are in Full View Outside

The multiple stages of life are never far from view on the streets of Vietnam.

Linh Pham

in Music & Arts

Hanoi Photographer Marcus Lacey: 'To Photograph a Subject Well, Learn From How It Was Painted'

Marcus Lacey’s first experience in Hanoi was sitting in a bia hơi for seven hours.

Paul Christiansen

in Quãng 8

Kim Chi Sun and Charles on the Evolution of Good

"I haven’t lost myself yet, but there are many new angles of me, new realizations; there are some new feelings, new vibes I want to share with you. I want to open up to you," Kim Chi Sun says to her l...

in Environment

Ná Nả: How a Grassroots Initiative Enriches the Lives of Ethnic Minorities

Khang A Tủa is attending university in Ho Chi Minh City, but he took the last semester off to run a project supporting people of the H’Mong ethnic minority.

Adrien Jean

in Culture

Basket Boats: A Key Part of Everyday Life in Coastal Vietnam

Vietnam’s narrow tube houses come from the feudal era and the tax policy in effect at the time. The feudal state charged a fee based on the width of the street-facing facade to collect taxes, pushing ...

Chris Humphrey

in Asia

Inside Cambodia's Floating Village, Where 40% of People Are Ethnic Vietnamese

Chong Kneas floating village, only 15 kilometers south of Siem Reap, is one of hundreds that line Tonle Sap Lake. Tens of thousands of families live in these clustered homes, around 40% of whom are Vi...

in Quãng 8

Built on Rock, Raditori's Music Shines Thanks to Whimsy and Unpredictability

With the release of their ambitious debut album "Những Con Người," Raditori is making a name for themselves in the local rock scene.

in Environment

Dr. Plastic, the Hanoi Duo Who Give New Life to Single-Use Plastic

Plastic pollution is considered one of the main environmental threats to our planet’s health.

in Saigon

Saigon Allows Takeaway Again, but Few Vendors Can Afford to Reopen

Bún riêu, bún thịt nướng, phở, bánh mì, cơm tấm, we’ve missed you.

in Travel

Immerse in a Serene Morning at Ngã Năm Floating Market

Floating markets haven’t completely disappeared from Vietnam’s commercial landscape.

Paul Christiansen

in Music & Arts

Born Into Traditional Craft, a Young Sculptor Finds Joy in Carving Pop Culture

“Even though they know deeply that it’s beautiful, they cannot feel it because it’s not familiar to them,” Duy Trần says of younger generations that gaze upon the traditional wood sculptures in his fa...

in Resorts

Maia Resort Reimagines Quy Nhon’s Culinary Landscape

While Quy Nhon is known for its seafood, one resort is trying to expand the city’s culinary reputation.  Quy Nhon has gained more attention in recent years as a peaceful town with stunning beach...

in Society

Life on the Last Remaining Ferries in Hoi An

These ferry boat trips may no longer be seen in Hoi An in the future, but they have been reliable partners in daily life and work for years.

in Environment

24 Live Tigers Rescued From Wildlife Trade in Nghe An This Week

Shocking news from Nghe An Province.

Michael Tatarski

in Natural Selection

Voọc Cát Bà: The Endangered Primate of Karst Land

Imagine being born one color, and growing up into a very differently hued adult.

Adrien Jean

in Music & Arts

What Happens When Artists Turn a Fishing Village Into Their Canvas?

Imagine if your home village was suddently transformed into a giant canvas for murals.

in Education

A Tour of Poverty Relief Efforts in the Mekong Delta [Pt.2]

in Quãng 8

How An Trần Learns to Embrace the Saxophone and Life in the Limelight

I set up an interview with An Tran at the most awkward time: 11pm on a Sunday.

in Music & Arts

Saigon Artist Đoàn Quốc Takes Watercolor Paintings to Whole New Heights

As one of the few Vietnamese nationals to have been granted the title of International Watercolor Master, young artist Đoàn Quốc is constantly pushing the frontiers of his creativity to paint a new pa...

in Travel

A Day in the Life of Madame Xuân, Hoi An's 85-Year-Old Vegetable Vendor

She is not famous but has silently become a part of Hoi An’s cultural beauty for years.

Adrien Jean

in Travel

With Summer Comes a Glorious Lotus Harvest Season in Hoi An

The farmers we met in these fields near Hoi An have been working their lotus farms since the end of the 1970s. The area has been a hub of lotus production in the decades since.

in Ton-sur-Ton

Enjoy the Simple Things: The Essence of Hanoi's Gian Don Clothing Store

Gian Don is not much of a commercial fashion brand but a "family shop," where Diệu spends her days delivering stories on "friendly" fashion, and puppies are “employed” as sales associates. I visi...

Morgan Ommer

in Travel

Glimpses of a Tranquil Hanoi From Inside 21 Days of Hotel Quarantine

I landed at Noi Bai Airport on May 28, 2021.

in Music & Arts

How LiveSpace, a New Music Initiative, Aims to Nurture Vietnam's Indie Musicians

A new joint initiative towards a more realized musical landscape extends the commitment of some of Vietnam’s key cultural players.

in Culture

Find Literary Divination in This Special Deck of 'Tale of Kiều' Tarot

In the world of tarot, each of the 78 cards represents a metaphysical inquiry into life and the human psyche. Meanwhile, in Nguyễn Du’s epic poem, each of the 3,254 verses offers a philosophical explo...

in Film & TV

The Vietnamese Studio That Creates Artworks for Makoto Shinkai, 'Attack on Titan'

Challenging the negative stereotypes surrounding the animation industry, Nam Hai Art opens a route for many passionate animators to pursue both passion and stable income.

in Culture

At Huyen Trang Pagoda, Spirituality, Charity Campaigns and a Home for Stray Kittens

Huynh Tan Phat, spanning many kilometers paralleling the river in District 7, is typical of many bustling streets, filled with the cacophonous rhythms of Saigon. However, cross the bridge at Pham...

Linh Pham

in Music & Arts

On ‘Ếch Ếch Vol. 1,’ a Mosaic of Hanoi’s Underground Music Scene

Hardcore, indie, metal, folk? The latest compilation album emerging from the capital is as multifaceted as the city itself.

in Travel

How Quy Nhon's Old Cemetery Slowly Expands up Vung Chua Mountain

​You might miss it if you were driving past, but once you walk down a small hẻm off Quy Nhon’s main Tay Son Street, the massive cemetery sprawls in all directions. 

in Parks & Rec

Saigon's Only Bonsai School Grooms Budding Artisans on a Century-Old Craft

Bonsai has often been regarded as an activity for the elderly, but the local bonsai community is experiencing an unprecedented renewal thanks to the participation of an unexpected demographic: young p...

in Travel

Could Phong Nha Be One of Vietnam's Top Sustainable Travel Destinations?

A recent trip to Phong Nha — before this most recent COVID-19 wave — left me wondering whether I had just visited one of Vietnam’s more sustainable travel destinations. Of all the places I have been s...

in Literature

Q&A: Shades of Hanoi, a Diary of Many Authors Writing Their Own Version of the City

For Long, Sơn and the young millennials penning Shades of Hanoi, writing is a brave act of self-reflection.

Tuyết Nhi

in Culture

Fall in Love With the People of Hai Phong, One TikTok at a Time

Being a late-bloomer who is slow to catch up with social media trends, I only just got TikTok installed on my phone about a month ago. As I've found that the majority of the clips on this platform are...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: In a Converted Classroom Lives the Unique Open Space of Nhà Phạm

Having ventured into Saigon's food scene for a while, I have one guiding principle: the best spots are always the ones circulating via word of mouth. Quiet corners, culinary rarities and communities t...

in Ton-sur-Ton

Vietnam's Traditional Indigo Dyes and Kimono Come Together in Kimono Ơi's Designs

Will there be a day when the image of a woman wearing a helmet, clad in a kimono with ripped jeans while driving around the streets of Saigon becomes the next trend?

in Society

A Tour of Poverty Relief Efforts in the Mekong Delta [Pt. 1]

Mothers struggling to afford both food and school fees; husbands forced to move to other provinces to find work; unexpected illnesses that devastate a family's life savings; and children growing up wi...

Michael Tatarski

in Parks & Rec

Emerging From Complete Obscurity, Saigon Roller Derby Storms the Rink

It’s a Tuesday night in Binh Quoi, and a group is lacing up their skates at a skating rink next to a football pitch.

in Film & TV

Saigon's Young Voice Actors Learn There's More to Dubbing Than Pretty Voices

Voice actors are rarely given enough attention, for they are always working behind closed curtains, giving the movie its "life." Nonetheless, many young people continue to be drawn to this nascent car...

Michael Tatarski

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Pandemic Kept Her in Vietnam, so She Opened a Thai Eatery

One of the joys of Saigon's F&B scene recently has been the expansion of international cuisine beyond the city center.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Board Game Café Minipolo Bonds Friends Over Snakes and Lattes

Hanoi is no stranger to the board game café niche, but something about Minipolo has groups of friends flocking here day and night to fill the atmosphere with chatter, laughter and the occasional, inev...

Mầm

in Quãng 8

The Marriage of Electronic and Folk Instruments in DJ Teddy Chilla's Music

DJ and producer Teddy Chilla is among a few artists in the current music scene who are known to experiment with Vietnamese traditional music in their electronic works.

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: A Nasi Lemak in Saigon That Evokes Memories of Hawker Centers

As I gaze at the glorious eight-dish Malaysian banquet on our table at Makiucha, perfectly spaced by our photographer, popping with colors and wafting off aromas of rich spices, it becomes apparent to...

in Culture

A Lotus 'Startup' in Hanoi Goes Back to Its Roots

For Lã Quang Khanh, a resident of Me Linh District, the term khởi nghiệp, or startup, has nothing to do with technology.

in Architecture

How Saigon's V.A.R Building Epitomizes Vietnam's Architectural Autonomy

Completed in 1973, the V.A.R building at 9 Ho Tung Mau Street in Nguyen Thai Binh Ward, District 1, is a prominent example of Vietnamese mid-20th-century modernist architecture designed by architect L...

in Education

Fostering Empathetic Leadership from a Young Age at Anne Hill

“Leadership doesn’t mean you will grow up to become a Prime Minister”, Anne Hill says of students at the namesake International school she founded in District 2.  “It means being able to differe...

in Culture

Inside the Extravaganza Using Literature to Highlight Hoi An History

Directed by writer Nguyễn Quang Vinh, “Hội An Show – Gratitude” was launched last month in the central Vietnam town. It featured 150 artists portraying the history of the ancient town via stories of H...

in Society

The Quotidian Hẻm Life Along the Railway Track in District 3

I have made multiple trips up and down the hẻm along the railway from Le Van Sy to capture the moods both during the week and on weekends. As the hẻm serves both pedestrians and ...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Xôi Khâu Nhục, the Cantonese Breakfast for Pork Belly Lovers

I first found out about khâu nhục where I find all my Saigon information: Facebook.

Elise Luong

in Music & Arts

Ahead of the Hanoi Return of 'Les Misérables,' a Talk With Director Trần Ly Ly

Directing the Vietnam National Opera and Ballet with a tender iron fist since 2018, Tran Ly Ly pushes her artists and the company towards a daring new image by revisiting classic works and promot...

Elise Luong

in Ton-sur-Ton

Kilomet109's Thảo Vũ: 'Clothing Is a Language That You Can Write With'

In October last year, eco-fashion label Kilomet109 launched its latest collection “Miên.” Designer Thảo Vũ sat down with us to share the label’s awkward beginnings and what the label means to her...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Oldest Hủ Tiếu Bò Viên in Town

With only three dishes on the menu, this hủ tiếu spot has been running for more than five decades.

in Music & Arts

8 the Theatre Refreshes Jazz With Music by Young People for Young People

What are you doing at 8pm?

in Eat & Drink

Eddie’s Brings Good American Food, Friendly Service & Great Milkshakes to District 1

“An authentically American dining experience is what we set out to create for our guests in Vietnam,” explains Trần Lê Thanh Hằng, Managing Partner of Eddie’s New York Deli & Diner, when we sat down f...

in Quãng 8

Mỹ Anh's Journey to Carve Her Own Space in the Music Scene Is Just Starting

You can feel Mỹ Anh’s eccentric bubbly energy right away; her free-spirited character is expressed through not only her music, but her '80s-inspired style and aura. Wearing her trademarked checkered t...

Paul Christiansen

in Music & Arts

The Unquenchable Spirit of Artist Lê Triều Điển

“Điển is like a flower; there is no question of growing or not growing.”

in Vietnam Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Nha Trang's 22-Year-Old Bánh Canh Cá Sings the Praises of the Sea

Traveling in Nha Trang wouldn't be complete without tasting this delicious bowl of bánh canh which makes you enjoy eating almost every part of the fish, from its meat to its organs.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: A Mom-and-Pop Ramen Experience in Hanoi's 'Japantown'

Anyone familiar with the Linh Lang–Kim Ma–Dao Tan area knows it’s the closest one might get to visiting Japan in Hanoi.

in Music & Arts

'The Humanimal' Exhibition Celebrates Artist Daos501's 15-Year Journey in Graffiti

The set of artworks titled "The Humanimal" by Daos501 — an established name in Vietnam's graffiti scene — brought the harmony between nature and humans to Interlink’s art event.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: A Simple but Well-Balanced Bún Cá Thái Bình in Ba Đình

In these uncertain times when everything oscillates between “business as usual,” “total lockdown” and all shades in-between, I don’t really know when this article will be published, or if the little e...

in Travel

Exploring the Green Oases Hidden Inside D5's Old Apartment Buildings

Spare some time one slow afternoon for a stroll around District 5’s old apartments, and one might discover many interesting things — it could be a hidden residential area amidst a labyrinthine hẻm, th...

Adrien Jean

in Travel

On the Gentle Train Ride in a Myanmar From Another Era

Since the shocking coup d’état in Myanmar on February 1 and the detention of Aung San Suu Kyi, the world has watched helplessly while the military junta brutally cracks down on peaceful protesters try...

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: From Ohio to D7, the Serendipitous Story of Saigon's Lamb Phở

A highlight of my last visit to Phở Lạc Việt was a special moment when I reached out and the tips of my fingers touched a warm bowl inside the heating cabinet.

in Music & Arts

Local Website Saigoneer Puts Calendar on Sale in Mid-March, Confuses Readers

In Saigon, the sweltering heat of March and April usually drives city-dwellers to take refuge in air-conditioned coffee shops and seek out refreshing thirst-quenchers like đá me and sugarcane juice — ...

in Society

Three Nha Trang Residents on How Covid-19 Affected Their Livelihood

Normally, Nha Trang is one of Vietnam’s most famous tourism destinations.

in Music & Arts

Phởq Sessions Reinvents a DJ’s Habitat in a Mystical Mai Chau Cave

Flexing the creative mind amid idle times.

in Architecture

Architecture College to Renovate Da Lat's Abandoned Franciscan Mission

Recently, the University of Architecture HCMC (UAHCMC) announced plans to renovate Da Lat’s abandoned Franciscan mission. Due to the popularity of the complex among locals and tourists, the building’s...

Michael Tatarski

in Food Culture

Binh Duong, a Surprising Oasis of Taiwanese Snacks and Chinese Dumplings

This is part 2 of our two-part series on Taiwanese and Chinese food in Binh Duong. Read part one here.

Mầm

in Quãng 8

Meet Cam, the Idiosyncratic Rapper Telling Stories Through Music

Born from the streets, rap/hip-hop often features confrontational lyrics and intense performances. But to Lê Văn Toàn, who goes by the stage name Cam, rap is like a canvas to bare his heart; chronicle...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: How 2 Brothers From Punjab Spread Their Love for Indian Food

Some names that immediately come to mind when the topic of Indian food is raised are the old favorites, such as Namaste on Tho Nhuom Street or Foodshop 45 in Truc Bach. But have you heard of a small r...

in Hotels

Villa Song Pivots Towards Local Communities

When you picture one of Saigon’s luxury hotels, you likely imagine it occupied by international business travelers and families indulging in dream vacations. The last year has changed that image, and ...

in Culture

For a Tết Full of Rich Traditions, Head to Saigon's Hoa Community

Up until 2011, I thought that everybody in Saigon had the same Tet every year, with apricot flowers in the living room and bánh chưng or bánh tét on the altar, and family trips to the Nguyen Hue flowe...

in Travel

In Suburban Đà Lạt, With Spring Comes Mai Anh Đào's Breathtaking Pink Tapestry

Mai anh đào, or wild Himalayan cherry flower trees, blooms the brightest and most intensely in Lâm Đồng Province for a few short weeks from the end of January until mid February.

in Travel

[Photos] A Stroll Through Eclectic Chợ Lớn

Until fairly recently, Chợ Lớn was its own city, long inhabited by người Hoa who carved out an economic hub along the banks of the Saigon River over 200 years ago.

Michael Tatarski

in Food Culture

A Journey into Binh Duong's Deep Chinese & Taiwanese Flavors

Believe it or not, there is more to Binh Duong than just industrial parks producing your next Uniqlo T-shirt or pair of running shoes.

in Retail

Annam Gourmet Opens New Binh Thanh Location

Saigon is constantly evolving, with some districts taking on new personalities. In addition to Thao Dien and Phu My Hung, parts of Binh Thanh District are quickly joining the ranks of the city’s most ...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Lily Coffee, a Hideaway for When Life Gets Overwhelming

Nestled in a nook so small that not many Hanoians even know of it, Lily Coffee is a true hideaway, with its entrance tucked on the side of an alley. The gate held ajar separates two worlds — one ...

Pete Walls

in Travel

[Photos] Watching the Sunset From Fansipan, the Roof of Vietnam

Conquering Mount Fansipan’s 3,147 meters was once a feat reserved for those willing to take on the potential multi-day hike from Sapa to the summit and back.

Khoi Pham

in Vietnam Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Da Lat's Ngàn Cafe Is as Comforting as an Embrace

Walking down Da Lat’s Robin Hill amid emerald pine trees and languid fluffs of cloud, one’s eyes will inevitably encounter a visual disturbance in the form of bright orange plastic maple trees. They a...

Michael Tatarski

in Travel

An Eye-Opening Mushroom Farm in Da Lat for Budding Mycologists

It could be argued that mushrooms are among nature's strangest creations.

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: D6's Hot and Sour Suan La Fen Is the Noodle Dish to Conquer

Every time I lap up a spoonful of searing broth that’s so spicy I could almost count the number of times my face pulses, I feel grateful for taste buds.

Elise Luong

in Music & Arts

Q&A: Gallery Director Suzanne Lecht on the 'Gang of Five' and Building a House of Arts

Tucked in an alley south of Hai Ba Trung stands Suzanne Lecht’s glorious home, a magical abode crowned with an ancient nhà sàn from Mai Chau. After having lived there for more than 25 years,...

Elise Luong

in Vietnam Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Cù Rú, an Old Saigon Bar That Took Root in Da Lat

Editor's note: Cù Rú Bar, the artists' solace, was born in Saigon by a tightknit group of friends and lovers, fueling creative souls with delectable homemade rượu cocktails, the group relocated to Da ...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Xóm Hà Hồi's Dill-icious Golden Grilled Cá Lăng

With Hanoi deep in winter’s chill, our bellies crave hearty delights, and there is nothing like frying your own chả cá in the cozy little hamlet of Hà Hồi to ward off the season’s bite.

in Culture

[Photos] For a Day, Winter Convention Brings Kick-Ass Cosplay Back to Saigon

In which universe do Captain America and Cardcaptor Sakura rub shoulders with anthropomorphized, anime-fied white blood cells?

Michael Tatarski

in Travel

At Da Lat's Biological Museum, a Demented Homage to Vietnam's Vanishing Wildlife

Sometimes when traveling, you come across something so utterly odd that you simply don't know what to make of it.

in Architecture

[Photos] When Bricks Not Only Form a House's Structure but Also Unique Texture

Gardens and bricks allow Bien Hoa's Wall House to fill its lungs. It is essential we have some in our homes. But not all air is equal.

in Culture

[Video] A Dynamic Visual Ode to Hanoi, a City of Paradoxes

Cái Gốc (The Origin) is the latest release from music producer and video director Robin Marty and his collaborator Jakub Zajac.

in Culture

[Video] How Has Vietnamese Fashion Changed in a Millennium of History?

The most fascinating factoid about the video project is that black teeth had such enduring appeal across centuries and dynasties.

in Music & Arts

[Photos] A Royal Tea Set, as Envisioned by a Vietnamese Graphic Designer

Poets ponder flowers, aristocrats paint ceremonial masks, and courtesans gather lotus flowers in wooden boats, all while fragile threads of steam uncoil from ceramic pots of tea.

Linh Pham

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Quán Nhạc Cầm Nurtures the Soul Like a Love Song

Albeit ostensibly a coffee shop, Cầm’s specialty is actually old Vietnamese music.

in Culture

[Photos] Bask in the Festive Spirit at Hanoi's Holiday Decoration Street

With Christmas just around the corner, businesses and public places in Hanoi are awash in red and winter-themed paraphernalia. Crowds of young Hanoians flock to Phố Hàng Mã, one of the city’s major kn...

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Saigon's Hakka Culture Lives in D5's Khổ Qua Cà Ớt

Stuffing food inside other food is an ingenious human invention on par with refrigeration, chopsticks, and Gmail’s “undo” button.

in Music & Arts

Crate-Digging for Audio Gold at the Second Hanoi Records Day

In September of this year, Quan Cam played host to VOC Record’s second Hanoi Records Day. Saigoneer met with the organizers and collectors to learn more about Vietnam’s growing culture of crate digger...

Govi Snell

in Travel

At the Women's Museum in Hanoi, a Celebration of Women at Home and at War

The Vietnamese Women's Museum in Hanoi is a museum with a mission.

in Saigon

[Photos] Cloudy With a Chance of Flooding: On Chasing Storms Around Saigon

A long-time Australian resident of Saigon once joked with me after my arrival to Vietnam a few years ago that southern Vietnam has two seasons: hot, and bloody hot.

in Eat & Drink

Kitchen: A Non-Profit Restaurant Dishing up No-Nonsense Comfort Food

The kitchen is the heart of a home. This is the philosophy behind Kitchen, a new not-for-profit restaurant in District 2 that aims to nurture a community with delicious, healthy food. 

in Arts & Culture

“Tree Spirit” Plants Lim Khim Katy’s Soothing Landscapes in Saigon

“I just fly with my knife,” Lim Khim Katy explains of the process behind her striking landscapes.

Mầm

in Ton-sur-Ton

Tarp, but Make It Fashion: A Saigon Trio Upcycles Canopies Into Backpacks

With a love for the environment and ample creativity, Kiều Anh, Trang, and Tú Quân have built a unique fashion brand named Dòng Dòng Sài Gòn. The line of bags and other items created from recycled tar...

Mầm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Thời Thanh Xuân, the Special Saigon Cafe Run by Deaf Staff

Quán của Thời Thanh Xuân not only encompasses the youth of its founder, Võ Thành Luân, it’s also where hard-of-hearing Vietnamese can write their own story, learn, focus on self-development, and be a ...

Paul Christiansen

in Travel

At Da Lat's Secluded Da Phuoc Temple, Insights Into Cao Dai Teachings

Perched on top of a hilly area, Da Lat's Cao Dai temple is a towering structure of vibrant aesthetics and intriguing mysticism.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Hidden Gem, the Cafe that Recycled Knick-Knacks Built

It is difficult to describe Hidden Gem Café without paraphrasing its name, but I have not found a better way to characterize this wonderful establishment.

in Eat & Drink

From Plant to Pour: Rethinking Vietnamese Coffee

Saigoneer will never see coffee the same way again.

in Vietnam

[Photos] Views of 1993 Vietnam From Behind the Lens of a Past War Orphan

I have been carrying this film around for over a quarter-century from Hanoi to Saigon to Boston and to New York.

in Sports

In Saigon, a Movie Studio Becomes the New Home for Vietnam's Basketball 'Bubble'

A tight game heading towards halftime in Ho Chi Minh City. The crowd bashing thundersticks to egg on the competitors. And then a chant breaks out: “Let’s go Hanoi.”

in Environment

Vietnamese Insect Protein Startup Cricket One Gets 7-Figure Funding

That's a lot of crickets!

Adrien Jean

in Culture

[Photos] Get Set, Row: The Aquatic Exuberance of Soc Trang's Ooc Om Bok Festival

Also called the Moon Worship festival, Ooc Om Bok is one of the liveliest festivals in the Khmer calendar.

in Music & Arts

Citizen Earth Program Returns to Hanoi With Art, Culture, Science, and More

Citizen Earth is a Six Space project exploring art, culture, and education through a community lens. The year-long program brings together artists and researchers from various fields such as history, ...

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: A Vietnamese Curry That Makes the Case for Coconut Milk

If you’re not usually a fan of Vietnamese curry, Cà Ri Gà 3T’s signature dish is a surprisingly well-balanced offering. And If you are indeed a fan, then you’re in luck.

Khôi Phạm

in Film & TV

Review: 'Đoạn Trường Vinh Hoa' Is Cải Lương at Its Most Heart-Wrenching

As the screening came to an end, there were quiet sobs echoing softly across the auditorium. For a lot of us viewers with water in our eyes, it was a complete surprise that a documentary about a seemi...

Alberto Prieto

in Vietnam

Into the Storm: A Journey Into Quang Binh's Typhoon-Battered Communities

October was a month of unceasing devastation and pain for central Vietnam. It started with unprecedented downpours; then consecutive typhoons hit; and sudden landslides turned deadly fast. A few weeks...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Sipping Cocktails on Plastic Stools Is a Special Saigon Street Treat

Is there anything more synonymous with Saigon than the humble street cart? With stalls citywide on every corner, it’s our version of the public house — places where people come together and connect, a...

Adrien Jean

in Travel

[Photos] Fancy a Drink, Scarf or Even a New Cow? Head to Meo Vac’s Sunday Market.

Meo Vac is a small town located in the extreme north of Vietnam, close to the Chinese border that stretches out as far as the eye can see behind the massive limestone mountains surrounding the region....

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Sonder Cafe, a Home for Whimsical Drinks and Cool Beans

sonder (n): the realization that each random passerby is living a life as vivid and complex as your own.

Elise Luong

in Music & Arts

Culture Lab, a Creative Feast Spanning Disciplines, Media, and Even Physical Borders

In May this year, the Goethe-Institut of Hanoi initiated the project "Xưởng Văn Hoá" (Culture Lab) in an effort to support artists and their community during the Covid-19 pandemic.

Paul Christiansen

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: A Home for Live Music and Quietude Inside an Old French Villa

If Vừng Ơi Mở Ra Cafe were a person, it would be your older, more sophisticated and welcoming friend.

in Music & Arts

Month of Arts Practice Returns to Hanoi With Virtual Lectures, Livestreamed Talks

For its fifth consecutive year, the annual “Month of Arts Practice” (MAP) is currently running from its base in Hanoi with a series of online events and a final exhibition opening on November 21.

Adrien Jean

in Travel

[Photos] The Neon-Lit World in the Mist of Sapa

Is there a more atmospheric place in Vietnam than Sapa on a misty night?

Michael Tatarski

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Korean Comfort Food in Binh Thanh for Hungover Heads

One of the great joys of dining out is coming across the unexpected.

in Ton-sur-Ton

How a Vietnamese Ethiopian Designer Built Her Fashion 'Dynasty'

“I’m young so I still have big dreams,” Kim Berhanu begins our chat on an early September day. At the tender age of 23, Berhanu is already the CEO and creative director of the fashion brand Dynasty th...

in Travel

The Small-Town Charms of Gia Nghia, Vietnam's Youngest Provincial Capital

Set amongst softly undulating hills covered in scenic farmland and coffee trees that slowly give rise to massive, densely forested mountains is a quiet city far off both the domestic and international...

in Eat & Drink Partner

Top-Notch French Food and Ambiance at the Revamped Le 17 Bistro

With international tourism in Vietnam dead for the foreseeable future, now is the perfect time for Saigoneers to explore businesses in their own city that they may have previously overlooked. Take, f...

Paul Christiansen

in Food Culture

When in Da Lat, All Roads Lead to Bánh Mì Xíu Mại

Which rendition of bánh mì xíu mại you prefer may say more about you than it does Da Lat’s beloved meatballs.

Michael Tatarski

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Come for the Dim Sum, Stay for the Dim Sum

As the old saying goes, when in Hanoi, do as your colleagues do.

in Saigon

Want to Learn About Saigon History? Scan These New QR Codes on Street Signs.

Saigoneers interested in finding out more about the history of their hometown now have a new avenue to expand their knowledge.

Michael Tatarski

in Travel

Saigoneer Getaways: In Pu Luong, a Verdant Dream Untouched by Development

There are many reasons to be grateful for living in Vietnam during the coronavirus pandemic.

Paul Christiansen

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Spice up Your Study Session With a Warm Ginger Coffee at An Miên

”The flower was never meant to survive the fruit's triumph.”

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Best Fried Chicken Rice in Saigon Is in District 8

The success story of Cơm Gà 142 epitomizes the impressive marriage between technology and word of mouth in Vietnam’s golden age of food delivery startups.

Elise Luong

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: A Stylish Urban Brew at the Effortlessly Hip Cà Thiều

Occupying a few meters of the sidewalk on Pho Nguyen Gia Thieu, a lovely leafy lane in the residential south of the French Quarter, Cà Thiều is nestled at the entrance of a dusty, unassuming apartment...

in Music & Arts

On the Road With One of Vietnam's Last Traveling Cải Lương Troupes

Most Saigoneers know cải lương as a form of television entertainment usually enjoyed by their parents or grandparents, but not many are aware of the art form’s important role in the nightlife of resid...

in Music & Arts

This Ghost Month, an Other-Worldly Exhibition Not for the Faint-Hearted

The topic can be summed up in one word — “ghosts” — but it was enough inspiration for illustrators to create a plethora of artworks as part of the Hù project spearheaded by Khô Mực Studio.

in Music & Arts

Review: Red Balloons, a Fresh Musical Take on Vintage Vietnamese Cartoons

At 6:30pm on July 5, Red Balloons: Music for 20th Century Vietnamese Animation took place at the Institut français de Hanoi-L'Espace. It was organized by The Onion Cellar and The Centre for Assis...

in Architecture

[Photos] The Saigon Factory Whose Walls Are Made of Plants

Sign us up for a job here.

in Travel

[Photos] Inside the Dust-Covered World of Ninh Van's Traditional Stone Carvers

It's a rare treat to see generations of skill in person.

Michael Tatarski

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Case of the Twin Bánh Mì Chảo Switcheroo

In the land of copycat businesses, it always pays to double-check that you're at the right one.

Paul Christiansen

in Music & Arts

Velvet Chains and Epaulet Couch: How a Curious Artist Plays With Symbols

What would it mean to sit on the shoulder-attached epaulet of a military uniform that denotes rank?

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Head to This Vegan Bánh Mì Cart for a Cheap and Cheerful Snack

There is no shortage of delicious and affordable vegan restaurants throughout Hanoi, but Chay Snack Cart safely reigns supreme on my list. This family-run business welcomes you into their home with si...

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Universe of Hanoian Food Beyond Bún Đậu

I tend to be cautious of restaurants that boast authenticity.

Linh Phạm

in Culture

[Photos] Hanoi's Perusers of Perfect Pedals

It was a cloudy Saturday morning when Saigoneer arrived at the Thanh Nien Street trà đá spot next to Ho Tay.

in Hotels

A Staycation to Explore in Saigon

The dawn rays of sun falling on the Saigon River resembled miraculous flames as we approached. Across the water, green palms trees shimmered as the occasional bird flicked across the surface, singing ...

Paul Christiansen

in In Plain Sight

On Loving the Saigon Zoo Despite Its Flaws

We’ve all wanted something we can’t have. Something we can see but can’t touch. Something dangled in front of us but just out of reach like an especially succulent apple growing on a branch inches ...

Adrien Jean

in Travel

[Photos] A Sweltering Day on a Ninh Thuan Salt Field

Ever wonder where your salt comes from?

in Saigon

Saigon Zoo Staff Take Voluntary Pay Cuts to Keep Animals Fed

Difficulties related to COVID-19 have led the Saigon Zoo and Botanical Gardens staff to take voluntary 30% pay cuts so food can be purchased for the animals.

Adrien Jean

in Culture

[Photos] From Bamboo to Altar: The Life of an Incense Stick in Vietnam

Vietnamese see the process of burning incense as a sacred ritual said to provide a bridge between the visible life of human beings and the spiritual world of gods.

Govi Snell

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: It Doesn't Get More Coconut Than This Streetside Ice Cream

Head to Tân Bình District if the idea of coconut ice cream served in a coconut with a crunchy coconut topping excites you.

in Culture

[Video] The Homeless Saigon Man Who Built a Home for Rescue Dogs

In recent years, uproar over the consumption of dog meat has culminated in demands for a national ban on the controversial dish, which some consider a traditional delicacy while others claim it is une...

in Environment

Bring Your Own Containers, We're Going Grocery Shopping

Above a peaceful coffee shop on the quiet road of Nguyễn Khắc Nhu lies a small zero-waste refill shop trying to advocate change.

Michael Tatarski

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Head to the Airport to Relieve Your Hankering for Thai Food

Insert cliché about this strange year here.

in Education

At Kyros Saigon, a Different Therapy Massage Method

Sometimes, it seems like you can’t walk 100 meters in Saigon without tripping over a spa.

Elise Luong

in Music & Arts

In 'Xem Đêm, Càng Đêm,' a Night Rendezvous Between Architecture and Visual Art

‘"...In the distance the stars Nearby, fireflies..."—Phùng Cung

in Film & TV

For Vietnam's Filmmakers, the Pandemic Brings Business, Impetus to Adapt

Six months have passed since COVID-19 first reared its head, and still its impact reverberates chaotically across the planet.

in Travel

[Photos] Visions of a Dynamic Vietnam Through My Deaf Eyes

Vietnam inspired me to take photographs of places, people, cultures and landscapes that I've never seen before.

Michael Tatarski

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: R House, a Haven for Rescued Dogs, Healthy Eats, and Adoption Opportunities

For dogs, dog owners and general fans of man's best friend, living in Saigon can be tough.

Khoi Pham

in Saigon

[Photos] Inside a Ben Thanh Devoid of Tourists, Forlorn Kiosks and Mass Closures

Plump mangosteens, cheap iPhở shirts, freshly ground coffee, and paper cut-outs of city landmarks — there was a time when the northern gate of Ben Thanh Market was lined door-to-door with dynamic shop...

in Eat & Drink

A Journey through Spanish Flavors at Ria

Not long ago, one could count the number of Spanish eateries in Saigon on a few fingers.

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Can Deep-Fried Hột Vịt Lộn Dethrone the Classic?

Has your luck taken a turn for the worse lately? Perhaps it’s high-time for a hột vịt lộn (or three) to reverse your fortune.

in Sports

As Epidemic Subsides in Vietnam, Return of VBA Not an ‘If,’ but a 'When’

Rebooting professional basketball during a global pandemic is no slam dunk.

in Film & TV

Cine-Concert Refreshes Vintage Vietnamese Cartoons With Soundtracks by Current Musicians

This July brings to Hanoi a unique cine-concert experience combining live music and Vietnamese animation archives. Red Balloons: Music For 20th-century Vietnamese Animation, organized by The Onion Cel...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

In Search of Charming Cafes Along Saigon's Train Alleys

Compared to Hanoi’s now-restricted Phung Hung “Train Street,” the neighborhoods bordering the railway in Saigon have neither the romanticism nor goosebumps-inducing adrenaline rush that turned the for...

in Music & Arts

[Video] Watch Saigon Shine in New MV 'Alane' by German DJ Robin Schulz

Vietnamese listeners of Robin Schulz’s latest summer release might notice some familiar scenes in the song’s dynamic music video.

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Lower Your Voice, the Hidden Elephant Is Reading

In Saigon’s indie cafe scene, there are household names and well-kept secrets; and then there are secrets that one might think are well-kept, but are actually household names. 

in Culture

[Photos] Scaling the Cliffs of Northern Vietnam

Despite its incredible potential, rock climbing in Vietnam still flies relatively under the radar.

Paul Christiansen

in Snack Attack

The Delectable Desserts to Satisfy Your Craving This Durian Season

If I were ever to believe in a generous god, the existence of durian would be the first piece of evidence I cite.

in Eat & Drink

Upscale Fusion Fare Mingles with Japan’s Izakaya Culture at NOMU

What exactly is fusion food?

in Eat & Drink Partner

Bold New Durian Recipes Arrive in Saigon

There is no such thing as too much durian.

Michael Tatarski

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: In Praise of D1's Cheap, Dependable Sidewalk Cơm Trưa

In these trying times, the comfort of familiarity goes a long way.

in Music & Arts

[Photos] In a Thao Dien Concrete Shell, a Mystery Graffiti Mecca

You never know what you'll find amid the glittering facades of Saigon's new upscale residential developments.

in Travel

Vietnam Extends E-Visa Scheme to 80 Countries; Borders Remain Closed

Starting July 1, citizens from 80 countries and territories will be eligible for electronic visas for future Vietnam visits, though this does not mean that foreign visitors will be allowed into the co...

Michael Tatarski

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Handmade Noodles Hidden Amid the Mayhem of Hang Xanh

The traffic-choked wastelands of Hang Xanh are one of the last places you'd expect to find an incredible meal of noodles.

in Music & Arts

Vietnam's London Design Biennale Artwork Now Available for Viewing in Hanoi

On display in Vietnam for the first time, installation work 'Khải' marked Vietnam's first participation in the London Design Biennale.

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Refreshing Simplicity of Veggies, Roots and Mushrooms

Explaining the food at Rau Củ Nấm Vegan Restaurant is simple; it’s all in the name: vegetables, tubers, and mushrooms.

in Hanoi

The City as Text: Chợ Trời and the Representation of an Invisible Hanoi

Despite being the largest marketplace in the city since the 1950s, and still the oldest temporary market in town, Troi Market (chợ Trời) doesn't appear in delightful pieces of literature or art like t...

in Health

[Photos] From Boston to Saigon: A Coronavirus Quarantine Diary

On March 20, I arrived at Tan Son Nhat International Airport from the United States.

in Music & Arts

[Photos] An Other-Worldly Wander Through a Human-Less Hanoi at Night

Tracing Hanoi’s spirit: that was the initial goal of the photographic project I set out to do from November 2018 onward.

in Travel

[Photos] Urbanist Travel Getaways: The Stillness of Kyoto's Fushimi Inari Taisha at Night

If you visited Kyoto but didn’t snap a snazzy shot of the seemingly infinite row of torii gates, did you really visit Kyoto? Or at least, that’s what common travel conventions seem to suggest.

in Music & Arts

Vietnamese Curator Do Tuong Linh on Creating a Global South-Led Art Scene

Walking into the Vincom Center for Contemporary Art (VCCA) in Hanoi, visitors almost immediately encounter a fifty-foot line of dirt and small rocks. The pathway of sorts — which some visitors step ov...

in Music & Arts

[Photos] In the Digital Age, Film Photography Offers a Chance to Slow Down

In fast-paced Saigon, sometimes it pays to slow things down a bit.

in Environment

Tracing the Reincarnation of Plastic Waste in Saigon's Informal Recycling Workshops

The text message said to be ready at 4:30am at my street corner, where I would be picked up for the drive to the plastics recycling center. I had been wanting to visit the site for this article and th...

in Music & Arts

[Photos] Tracing Hanoi's Contrast Between Neon and Shadow, Old and New

What is beneath the capital's skin?

in Saigon

[Photos] The Joy and Heady Rush of Getting Caught in Saigon's Off-Season Rain

Right in the middle of the sweat-drenched, sun-singed, punishing April heat, Saigon welcomes the season’s rare showers with open arms.

in Food Culture

Afro Mini Mart: What's Inside Vietnam’s First African Grocery Store?

At first glance, it looks just like any other convenience store. The same strings of Oishi shrimp snacks and revolving wire rack of Orion Marine Boys adorn either side of its entrance, just as they do...

in Environment

Inside Saigon's Grassroots Carton and Aluminum Recycling Plants

With plastics claiming many of the headlines worldwide and constituting a major issue in Vietnam, scant attention is being paid to other recyclable materials, namely cardboard and aluminum.

Adrien Jean

in Travel

[Photos] In Yangon's Forsaken Amusement Park, Nature Finds Home in Decrepit Artifacts

Yangon Amusement Park was built in 1997 by the former military junta as a flashy distraction from their violent dictatorship.

Michael Tatarski

in Culture

Kite-Flying in Saigon in the Age of Coronavirus

As normal daily life grinds to a halt, last weekend was the final chance for some Saigoneers to take part in a favorite pastime: flying kites at sunset.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Sumptuous Vegetarian Ramen in a Quiet Truc Bach Hideaway

If you’ve ventured to the land of ramen, it’s likely you have a Japan hangover. Vege-ro’s authentic, rich meals could, for a while at least, help you recover.

Chris Humphrey

in Travel

[Photos] Dangerous, Adorable, Bizarre: A Look at Japan's Time-Honored Art of Making Mochi

Frenetic, dangerous, absolutely bizarre… the time-honored art of pounding mochi, a simple Japanese glutinous rice desert, is as entertaining as it is ngon vãi chưởng.

Michael Tatarski

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Piquant Thai Noodles in D7 for the Age of Takeout

It's the simple things in life that sometimes bring the greatest pleasure.

in Travel

[Photos] In a H'Mong Village, Harvest Time Is When Perseverance Pays Off

Tending to a crop takes dedication. Workers are subjected to early mornings, sore bodies and weary minds. However, after all the trials and tribulations, harvest time — the world over — is usually a t...

Thi Nguyen

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: At Sadec Quan, a Celebration of Mekong Delta Noodles

While bánh tằm is more often regarded as a popular street food dish in the Mekong Delta, my entrance to the world of this dish was family gatherings in Saigon.

in Travel

The Virtues of Cruising on the Saigon River

With sunlight shimmering on skyscrapers that stretch proudly above the horizon across from untrammeled patches of green space, Saigon appears most attractive when viewed from the river.

in Travel

[Photos] For Vietnam's H’Mong Communities, Life Tilts on a Precipice

On a small goat path beneath the high peaks of the Ma Pi Leng Pass, a group of H'Mong ladies walked uphill with more than 10 kilograms of wood and grass on their backs.

in Music & Arts

An Artist’s Role in Debate at Vo Tran Chau’s Solo Exhibition on Heritage

Located at The Factory Contemporary Arts Centre in District 2, “Leaf Picking in the Ancient Forest” is artist Vo Tran Chau’s largest solo exhibition to date, and is currently on view from February 14 ...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Vegetarian Fusion Food, Artwork and Leafy Surrounds All Feature in This Urban Oasis

In cacophonous cities like Hanoi, spaces that combine greenery with tranquility are vital.

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: In Saigon's Greenest Cafe, a Rabbit, Cotton and Succulents Galore

On a windy autumn day of 2019, I did what any existentially precarious millennial would eventually do some time in their 20s: I bought a houseplant.

Adrien Jean

in Travel

[Photos] Immersing in a Lonely Japan Outside the Urban Crowds

Japan's cities are known for their dense urbanity and crowded subways, but they can also be isolating.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: In Phủ Cafe, Community Engagement Brings a Sense of Belonging

Three flights of stairs separate the street from Phủ Café’s timeworn interior. Their small sign won’t grab your attention if you’re passing by, but attracting new customers isn’t necessarily the aim.

Govi Snell

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Pho Chay Nhu and 35 Years of Serving Tasty Vegetarian Meals

A bowl full of noodles is one of the things that make me feel lucky to be alive, and alive in Saigon in particular.

Adrien Jean

in Culture

[Photos] Life in the Time of the Masks and Coronavirus

These are strange times we're all living in.

Michael Tatarski

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: A Japanese Bánh Mì to Win Over Fusion Food Skeptics

When it comes to discussions of cuisine, I'd argue that "authentic" is the most overused word in writing and marketing, followed closely by "fusion."

in Music & Arts

In Tình Đầu Exhibition Space, a Home for Hanoi's Bohemian Young Artists

Nestled deep within labyrinthine alleyways in Hanoi’s Ba Đình District, Tình Đầu (first love), a studio-gallery run by a collective of Vietnamese artists, is growing a reputation as a home for the cap...

in Arts & Culture

One Night at Epizode, Vietnam’s Largest Island Music Festival

I arrived shortly before sunset, draped in my best floor-length party vest, and free of expectations on the second and final Saturday of Vietnam’s largest, globally-acclaimed music and art festival, E...

Paul Christiansen

in In Plain Sight

In Defense of Bảo Tàng Địa Chất, Saigon's Most Underappreciated Museum

By (un)conventional standards, Saigon’s Geological Museum may warrant a score of 1.3/9, but if one considers it as a source of whimsy, it’s a solid 8.2/9.

in Film & TV

From Fan to Filmmaker: How Le Lam Vien Found His Confidence as an Independent Director

At the age of 12, Le Lam Vien saw a movie at the cinema for the first time, and it swept him away to another world – one he’s been chasing ever since.

in Culture

In Warsaw, Homemade Thịt Kho Trứng for the Homeless

The Vietnamese community in Poland started to form in the 1950s, and to this day, most of its residents are very active in Poland.

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Hear Us Out, Coconut Milk and Fish Sauce Are Actually Great Together

There are few problems and little mediocrity that can’t be improved with an unctuous ladle of coconut milk.

in Sports

[Photos] Inside the Non-Stop Action of a Muay Thai Fight Night in Saigon

I arrived with eager anticipation on Sunday, December 29 at the Tao Dan Sports Center for the start of the club matches.

in Education

How One Woman is Working to Improve Saigon’s Live Music Scene

As the only foreign student studying cải lương at Saigon’s University of Cinema and Theatre, Josefina Fuentes stood out from the moment she arrived here, and her ensuing years in the city have been ju...

in Ănthology

A Bún Đậu Mắm Tôm in Singapore That Tastes (and Smells) Just Like Home

Joo Chiat, a neighborhood in the eastern realms of Singapore, is hardly a forgettable area.

in Food Culture

Step Inside Quốc Hương, the Centuries-Old Store Home of Chả and Bánh Chưng

For around 200 years, Quoc Huong store has been selling sumptuous meat delicacies to hungry Hanoians.

Thi Nguyen

in Music & Arts

Fashion, Contemporary Art Ruminations Intermingle in Designer Cong Tri's 'Cục Im Lặng'

Cuc Im Lang, the latest exhibition from renowned fashion designer Nguyen Cong Tri, presented ten collections spanning his 20-year career through the lens of ten contemporary artists across different m...

in Sports

In a D5 Gym, a Soft-Spoken Muay Thai Legend Trains Future Fighters

I first encountered Muay Thai on a photo assignment in Bangkok a number of years ago, and this graceful, devastatingly lethal martial art has piqued my curiosity ever since. After returning to the Uni...

Michael Tatarski

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Porcine Pleasure of a D2 Cơm Tấm Outpost

What comes to mind when you hear the words 'District 2'?

in Vietnam

Nhậu Places Respond to Drunk Driving Law With Their Own Transport Services

In response to a decline in customers following stricter laws regarding driving after drinking, bars and restaurants across the country are offering transportation services for patrons. 

in Culture

A Night With Kim Lee, the Only Vietnamese Drag Queen in Poland

There are only around 30 drag queens in Poland, and just one of them has Vietnamese roots: Kim Lee.

Michael Tatarski

in Food Culture

Tarantulas, Scorpions, Crickets Crawl Into Southeast Asia's Mass-Market Edibles

A spade strikes the bone-dry Cambodian dirt with a crunch, and the hunt is on. Chem Wai, a lanky, deeply tanned 53-year-old former soldier, has been collecting wild tarantulas and scorpions for most o...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Rice Dumplings With Bean Paste, Grated Coconut and Fiery Ginger Syrup

Bánh trôi tàu are elongated rice dumplings filled with mung bean paste, black sesame paste or grated coconut and served in a hot ginger syrup that warms one’s belly during cold winter months.

Thi Nguyen

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gem: Bún Cá Sứa With a Stock That Tastes Like the Ocean

A friend once told me that Saigon is a place that makes you feel like you can travel anywhere.

in Retail

King Cake’s Storied History and Arrival in Saigon

While relatively unknown in Vietnam, King Cake is one of the most popular holiday desserts in the world.

in Music & Arts

[Photos] A Photographer's Quest to Document Vietnam's Provinces From 2 Angles

Hanoi-based photographer Justin Mott has taken a unique approach to depicting Vietnam in his ongoing photo series.

in Culture

[Photos] Giant Caves and Animatronic Santa: Saigon Goes All out on Festivities

By this time of year, many expats living in Saigon have made the annual decision: return home to catch up with loved ones, or stay put in Vietnam. Those who stay in Saigon for Christmas may try to cel...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Loading T Serves up Decadent Egg Coffee in a 1930s Architectural Gem

Travel back in time to a café within a charming 1930s building, only a few hundred meters away from St Joseph’s Cathedral.

in Music & Arts

An Opera Lover’s Introduction to Cải Lương

“How would you like to see a performance of cải lương — traditional Vietnamese folk opera?” my local friend asked. “Great opportunity for photos, and I think we can go backstage.” Knowing my love...

Thi Nguyen

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: A Secret Back-Alley Bún Ngan, Hidden in Plain Sight

Several months ago, the Saigoneer team went to 89 Nguyen Du for a Hẻm Gem on Ngo 89’s Hanoian snacks. Little did I know, we’d be going to the same location for an entirely different eatery later on.

Khoi Pham

in Music & Arts

A Young Hanoi Orchestra Brings Symphonic Disney Nights to Saigon

Growing up with the touching stories of Walt Disney Studios, many Saigoneers have formed a personal connection with the cheery tunes of songs like The Little Mermaid’s ‘Under the Sea’ or the icon...

Adrien Jean

in Culture

[Photos] The Evolution of Saigon Residents in an Ad, Ad, Ad World

Exploring Saigon’s streets through my lens has helped me to understand the city in a deeper way and to be a witness of its development. 

Chris Humphrey

in Culture

[Photos] The Naked Truth Behind Hanoi's 'Banana Island' Nudists

Hanoi is a conservative capital where young couples rarely kiss in public, yet along the banks of the Red River, a men's nudist club thrives. 

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Home-Cooked Taiwanese Comfort Food for a Cold Saigon Day

District 5, Saigon’s Chinatown, is full of delicious eateries serving Cantonese food. For something new, try Va Thanh, an unassuming restaurant with top-notch Taiwanese home-style cooking.

in Sports

[Photos] A Historic Night of Bão to Celebrate a Historic Gold Medal 60 Years in the Making

Vietnam’s U-22 men’s football team just won their first-ever SEA Games gold medal. 

in Saigon

Vietnam's First Uniqlo, Southeast Asia's 2nd-Largest, Opens in Saigon

After years of anticipation, fashion fans in Vietnam were finally able to set foot in the country’s Uniqlo flagship outlet.

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Saigon Retro Cafe Has Just the Right Amount of Sentimentality

It’s a teensy bit weird to say that my new favorite hangout is above a VinMart.

Thi Nguyen

in Music & Arts

In 'Method,' Performers Explore Contemporary Dance's Universe of Movements

On the day of my visit, the dancers of ‘Method’ were practicing an exercise that involves many people crashing into each other before they all proceed to fall to the ground; their movements resemble v...

in Society

An Evening With the Grass-Roots Volunteer Group Helping Saigon's Homeless

The group meets at the Saigon Central Post Office in District 1 at 10:30pm. Although it is late in the evening, there are still tourists loitering around the building, one of the city's primary attrac...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: A Steaming Bowl of Mỳ Vằn Thắn to Ward off Winter’s Chill

The Old Quarter’s labyrinthine streets contain so many eateries that newcomers can easily feel overwhelmed.

Michael Tatarski

in Music & Arts

How Saigon Brought Together Skeleton Goode, the City's Latest Psych Rock Band

While some may find it hard to explore Saigon's music scene given the dearth of live venues, record labels and media coverage, bands like Skeleton Goode ensure that Saigoneers can enjoy a wide range o...

Paul Christiansen

in Music & Arts

A Young Violist's Take on Performing in Saigon's All-Vietnamese Orchestra

Notes leap and prance out of bamboo flute the way a cricket prances between stalks of grass.

Thi Nguyễn

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Krua Thai's Raw Seafood Salad Is Not for the Faint-Hearted

The first role I ever took in my home kitchen was to prepare sweet fish sauce with chili and garlic to pour over rice and noodles. As simple as this may sound, I still can’t master the art after years...

in Retail

Miss Vietnam Translates Saigon's Essence into a Fragrance

Forced to pause at an intersection frenzied with passing motorbikes an early evening breeze tussles the hem of a woman's ao dai, it's soft silk contrasting the brick and metal skyscrapers lo...

in Culture

Inside Nhật Tảo Market, Saigon's Biggest Informal Recycling Center

The areas around Nhat Tao Market, spanning the border of District 10 and District 11, are well-known for their bustling economy of second-hand electronics and machines.

in Hanoi

New Wastewater Discharge Fee Proposed for Hanoi Residents

If approved, the fee will be implemented in 12 of the capital's 27 districts.

in Film & TV

How Hanoi’s Queer Film Week Bridges LGBTQ Communities With Wider Society

The third annual Hanoi International Queer Film Week (HIQFW) is all about love.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Bánh Đập Dập, an Indelible Reminder of Vietnam's Austere Eras

Although stories, photographs and artifacts may allow a child to visualize their parents’ childhood, these couriers of memory distinctively belong to the former generation and remain locked in the pas...

Khoi Pham

in Music & Arts

With Debut Album 'Họa Âm Xưa,' Saigon Soul Revival Brings Back Old-School Cool

From covers of old songs from the 1960s and 70s, Saigon Soul Revival now presents their own original music in an exciting debut album, a continuation both in spirit and execution of the silvery vein o...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: In Xoan Cafe, a Sanctuary for Art, Tea and Cats

Curious cats, steaming tea and art-lined walls make Xoan Café feel like a home away from home.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The 'Stink' of Bún Mắm Nêm Is My Childhood Aroma

Every time I depart from Vietnam to study abroad or travel, on the way to Tan Son Nhat International Airport I stop by the Bau Cat area in Tan Binh to stuff myself with at least two bowls of bún mắm n...

Chris Humphrey

in Environment

The Campaign Aiming to End Vietnam's Gruesome Buffalo Fights

Sharpened horns, gashed eyes and slashed skin are hallmarks of buffalo fighting festivals that animal rights organizations are trying to close down.

in Food Culture

Not Just a Drink: As Vietnam's Coffee Scene Matures, It's Also Getting More Serious

If motorbikes are the choice mode of transportation in Saigon, coffee has got to be the choice stimulant and legal addiction. 

in Culture

In 'Ba Lan,' a Photographer Maps the Diverse Identities of Poland's Vietnamese Diaspora

Poland is a largely mono-ethnic country with a negative immigration rate and has one of the lowest rates of foreigners in the European Union. Even migration specialists are often shocked to hear about...

Michael Tatarski

in Music & Arts

District 105 Leads Saigon's Metal Scene Into a Bright, Loud Future

"You don't listen to music like this usually, right?" Huynh Hoang Huy asks before he and his bandmates rip into another hard-driving song from their catalogue.

in Culture

How The Learning Hub Creates a Space for Positive Change

Hanoi, like most big cities in this age of shared spaces, boasts a growing collection of co-working spaces and work-friendly cafes. But few take their mission as a catalyst for positive social change ...

in Education

An Afternoon in the Life of a BAEMIN Delivery Driver

Every few seconds, Phong’s thumb tapped his smartphone screen, waiting for the assignment that would send him racing across the city to cure someone’s mid-day cravings.

in Development

[Photos] The Oddly Comforting Mix of Old and New in Thu Thiem

Directly opposite downtown Saigon, a new city is growing that stretches far beyond what the eye can see.

in Music & Arts

Re-Mixing DJ Gender Ratios: How Maggie Tra Gets Women on the Decks

In Hanoi’s male-dominated music industry, Maggie Tra offers an oasis for females.

in Hotels

Creative Canapés Accompany Park Hyatt Saigon’s New Lounge

 In ancient times, people ate small amounts of savory food before a large meal, believing this could help digestion and increase appetites. Whether scientifically sound or not, the practice of en...

in Arts & Culture

Photography Exhibition Highlights Southeast Asia's Emerging Young Talents

The exhibition ‘we will have been young’ features no less than 12 emerging Southeast Asian photographers. 

Chris Humphrey

in Travel

Is This Really the End of the Line for Hanoi’s ‘Train Street’?

Hanoi officials shut down the celebrated stretch of railway last weekend, citing safety concerns as the main reason.

in Culture

[Photos] In An Giang, Buddhist Devotees Gather to Observe Uposatha Day

In September, Buddhists in An Giang Province gathered at Tuk Phos Pagoda in Tri Ton District to observe Uposatha day together.

in Sports

In Its 2nd Edition, Coupe de Hue Features Bach Ma Mountain Trail, World-Famous Cyclist

Vietnam is opening itself up as a destination for international-standard competitive cycling events. But can the momentum last? 

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Crispy Duck Noodles for When You're Feeling Fancy

Right in the middle of frenetic hospital crowds, imposing pharmacies and peak-hour traffic, Hue Ky Mi Gia stands out, its indoor dining area seemingly unaffected by the commotion that’s going on just ...

in Retail

Miss Vietnam Translates Hanoi’s Essence into a Fragrance

A spring wind eases through the trees surrounding Hanoi’s Hoan Kiem Lake, tussling the hem of a woman’s ao tu than as she pauses to stare across the dusk-darkened water, lost in thought.

Chris Humphrey

in Music & Arts

[Photos] QUA, a New Exhibition Space and Art Center, Opens Within HRC

Following the opening of Manzi’s new exhibition space, another new cultural space, ‘QUA,’ opened its doors last weekend within Hanoi Rock City.

in Music & Arts

A Look Inside Manzi's New Contemporary Art Exhibition Space

Manzi, one of Hanoi’s most well-known artistic hubs and a draw for creative crowds, is expanding.

in Music & Arts

Photographer Hon Hoang on Returning to His 'Foreign Hometown' After 11 Years

Saigon is changing so quickly that people who were born here can feel as if they are returning to a foreign land after years away.

Michael Tatarski

in Environment

How Campaigns Against Wildlife Trafficking Are Trying to Reset Social Norms

In late January, WildAid and the Ho Chi Minh City-based Center of Hands-on Actions and Networking for Growth and Environment (CHANGE) launched a graphic anti-wildlife trafficking campaign fo...

in Eat & Drink

BAEMIN Introduces Unheralded Food Flexibility

Saigon is experiencing a culinary renaissance that allows foodies to enjoy a vast array of culinary traditions not only in the same city, but in the same meal.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: A Secret Garden Leads to a Haven for Hanoi's Young Creatives

Immediately after strolling through the gates of Café Tu Luc, a leafy new reality helps one feel at ease.

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Khoai Bistro Serves up a Mother Lode of Ribs and Breakfast Skillet

Praise be to those who bring the hearty wholesomeness of the breakfast skillet to every hour of the day.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: A Japanese-American Time-Warp on Binh Thanh’s Backstreets

Imagine a world where the 1950s never ended. Where Daddy-O’s race muscle cars all day and Peggy Sue’s dance the night away. Where it’s all one big small town of neon-lit diners and all-night gas stati...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Pandan Jelly and Tapioca Pearls in a Little Bowl of Chè

Chè, the mercurial Vietnamese dessert soup, is appreciated by Hanoians both young and old. Whether wheeled around narrow streets in the Old Quarter, carried on shoulder poles or served in shop fronts ...

in Eat & Drink

How Drinking & Healing Made a Name for Itself

  “No more spicy chocolate passionfruit cocktails…no more durian,” jokes a mixologist at Drinking & Healing when asked what they’ll do differently in its second year.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Cháo Sườn Proves Sometimes the Simplest Snacks Are the Most Satisfying

Hanoi’s summer days are unforgiving. On the most intense days, a bullish sun forms thick layers of heat between cement roads and tall, oppressive buildings. Yet here I was, standing in the epicenter o...

in Culture

[Photos] Tinker Tailor Painter Bike: The Quiet Life of Saigon's Older Residents

In this series of film photos taken by Saigon resident and coffee genius Hoang Trung Hieu, citizens of varying stripes are captured in spontaneous action. Some are working at restaurants, others ...

Paul Christiansen

in Sports

On Dreaming of a Time When Vietnam Loves Basketball as Much as Football

How lucrative is being a professional basketball player in Vietnam? To help make ends meet, “some work at fast-food restaurants,” admits Ho Chi Minh City Wings small forward Nguyen Ky Quan.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Tasty Char Kway Teow and Sisig Where You Least Expect It

"They have bak kut teh. And what do you call that...Singaporean Hokkien fried noodles? The Korean businessmen go there for gatherings too," a friend told me during a casual chat at a craft beer joint ...

in Music & Arts

Bac Ninh Art Residency Opens Call for Artists

In a country with relatively few artist-in-residence programs, live.make.share represents a rare opportunity for cultural symbiosis and artistic development by giving international artists the ch...

Michael Tatarski

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: A Delicious Journey on the Caribbean Clipper at Jamaica Jamaica

By this stage of my life in Saigon, I'm not particularly surprised when an outpost of some unexpected cuisine appears in the unlikeliest of places.

in Music & Arts

Coracle Music Festival Returns to Ho Tram for Second Edition

After a successful first edition last year, the music festival will be held on the beach in Ho Tram for the second time November 29–30.

in Sports

How a Power Couple Built a Dedicated Home for Powerlifting in Saigon

In full "ninja" attire, I braved congested streets under the scorching sun looking for the address. Finally, having spotted a sign that reads 'OldSchool Barbell System’ tucked deep inside Binh Thanh D...

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: At Sara Ethiopian, a Chicken Stew for the Soul

Before the existence of Sara Ethiopian Restaurant in Saigon, my knowledge about the African country could fit squarely in a child’s palm: its capital, Addis Ababa; the tragic Ethiopian Airlines crash ...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: An Ancient Chinese Meat Sandwich, 3,000km Away From Home

In the landlocked Chinese city of Xian, the legendary Terracotta Army of more than 8,000 soldiers with distinct facial features, weapons, chariots and horses finds their eternal home. This article, ho...

Chris Humphrey

in Music & Arts

[Photos] Sixty Square, Hanoi's Beloved Art Quarter, Reopens After Closure Earlier This Year

Upon opening at the beginning of 2018, Sixty Square thrilled Hanoi's young creative crowd. When it suddenly closed earlier this year, it left hearts broken. Now, they're back once again. 

in Society

The Transformation of Saigon Through the Eyes of Ride-Hailing App Drivers

Saigon is well-accustomed to change. Having once been part of the ancient Cham empire, ruled by the Nguyen Lords and occupied by the French, Saigon is a city with a rich, compelling history. These var...

in Travel

Sun, Sand and Scary Beasts on Malaysia's Perhentian Islands

Southern Vietnam's rainy season coincides nicely with the dry season on Malaysia’s east coast, home to the Perhentian Islands, nestled in the East Sea.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Hiding From Influencers in an Old-School Saigon Cafe

"Saigon in its golden age was a time to be remembered and passed down to younger generations. The vintage aesthetic trend in Vietnam has been around for a couple of years now and for me, it is a cause...

Michael Tatarski

in Arts & Culture

'Reinvent Saigon' Asks Visitors to Reimagine the City and Themselves

Through tomorrow, the week-long Reinvent Saigon festival is taking place at five locations across the city.

in Music & Arts

To Bring Nature Into the Spotlight, an Architecture and Urbanism Festival Looks to Binh Quoi

Across Asia, urban landscapes are booming. The space they claim spreads further than ever, avidly consuming new land to cope with the influx of inhabitants and enterprises they must house.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Greasy Extravaganza of Deep-Fried Bột Chiên and Egg

Bột chiên is a familiar comfort food for many Vietnamese people.

in Literature

Turn Over a New Page in Hanoi's Hidden Libraries

I focused my attention on an amplifier lying on the shelf behind Hieu, the founder of Go West Library. He left his seat to retrieve a cable, and after returning he plugged his phone into the machine, ...

in Culture

[Video] Sidewalk Barbers: The Very Saigon Comfort of Getting a Haircut on the Street

Sidewalk barbershops are a symbol of old Saigon. In the face of globalization and its demands for westernization, the sight of a simple chair placed beneath an awning where one can get an affordable t...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: It's a Pagoda, It's a Restaurant, It's Superb Vegetarian Food

The revered 92-year-old Vietnamese Buddhist monk Thich Nhat Hanh sums up his teachings on food and the first meal of the day like this: “I asked some children, 'What is the purpose of eating breakfast...

in Travel

[Photos] From Rain-Soaked Nightscapes to a Serene Hanoian Dawn

Hanoi is known for its frenetic traffic and streets, which during my initial years in the capital led me to dream of escape.

Chris Humphrey

in Asia

[Photos] How One of Malaysia’s Last Nomadic Tribes Suffers From Societal Neglect

The semi-nomadic Batek, who live in Kuala Koh Village beside Peninsular Malaysia’s Taman Negara National Park, made global headlines recently after their community was torn apart by pollution, disease...

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: For the Love of Hanoian Snacks and Streetside Iced Tea

During the day, the dining area at 89 Nguyen Du houses a bún bò restaurant, but once the afternoon comes to an end and the sun starts to set, the area turns into a boisterous nhậu spot filled with nor...

Paul Christiansen

in Food Culture

Vietnam Loves Drinking Beer. What About Cooking With It?

The craft beer craze that originated in the west has arrived in Vietnam in full force, but the trend of incorporating the beverage into local food recipes hasn’t yet followed.

Paul Christiansen

in Music & Arts

[Photos] The Ghostliness That Inspired the Fine Arts Museum's Haunting Rumors

Do humans invent ghost stories to compensate for our inability to come to terms with the brutal, capricious nature of death, or do we spend significant energy suppressing the truth of the supernatural...

Michael Tatarski

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: A Direct Flight to Taiwan Through Your Taste Buds

One of the great benefits Vietnam's budget airline boom is the ease with which Saigoneers can now travel directly to wonderful destinations like Japan and South Korea without breaking the bank.

Chris Humphrey

in Travel

[Photos] Capturing the Unexpected Amid Vietnam’s Mountainous Landscapes

The Taj Mahal, the Eiffel Tower, a smiling lady in a conical hat: human nature practically guarantees that even the most iconic image will eventually turn stale through proliferation. These depictions...

in Travel

[Photos] Tractors and Cabbages: A Different Da Lat Away From Urban Chaos

Not looking for a fancy destination, I sought out Da Lat for a different perspective that’s comfier, simpler and quieter.

Khoi Pham

in Society

Many Homes in Vietnam Lack Toilets. But Thanks to Women, That's Changing.

At daybreak, when crickets croon and Tan Xuan Commune is still awash in darkness, Chung is already awake. “We will support you in getting access to funding,” she chants several times in front of a mir...

Michael Tatarski

in Travel

[Photos] The Island in Hong Kong That's Completely Free of Traffic

Hong Kong is famed for its incredible population density and vertiginous skyline, where streets are hemmed in by concrete canyons of towering high-rises.

in Culture

A Historic Venue Allows for an Exploration of Saigon’s Sizzling Music, Art and Fashion Scenes

“Just experiment with your eyes and your ears,” Headless clothing brand founder Quang Minh answered when asked to describe Saigon’s art scenes while standing in front of the Ho Chi Minh City Museum of...

in Film & TV

Immersive Documentary Storytelling Workshop to Be Held in Hanoi

The School of Slow Media is hosting REMIX Hanoi, an intensive media lab, from June 14 to 16.

in Music & Arts

Another Crossing: Seeking Solace in a Sea of Black Oil Paint

For five days and four nights, Saigon-based artist Bao Vuong will be in sole confinement with nothing but a pen and paper. He will have no food or water throughout this period, except for any rainwate...

in Film & TV

Filmmaker Nong Nhat Quang on His New Docuseries 'Queer Asia: Vietnam'

For 22-year-old filmmaker Nong Nhat Quang, growing up gay in Lao Cai Province, a conservative region of many ethnic groups, was tough. Being noticeably camp meant bullying and abuse were commonplace, ...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Comfort of Slurping Vegetarian Noodles on the Pavement

Tien, who’s been up since 4am, stops for a moment, lets out a small sigh of satisfaction and wipes the sweat from her brow with the well-used towel around her neck. It’s now 7:45am on another hot, hum...

in Culture

[Photos] How Vietnam's Muslims Celebrate Ramadan, Eid Al-Fitr in Chau Doc

Islam is the fastest-growing religion in the world, yet Vietnamese Muslims represent as little as 0.01% of the country’s population. Most are ethnic Cham, while a few are foreigners and a few converts...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Come for the Coffee, Stay for the Aesthetic

Apparently, the owners of Chon want people to find their café. However, you wouldn’t assume as much when attempting to navigate the narrow, snaking alleyways that lead to their joint. You’ll find a do...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: In Saigon's First Shots Bar, Usain Bolt and Princess Peach in Test Tubes

Pham Ngu Lao Street, along with its sister street Bui Vien, has been known for almost two decades to foreigners as the perfect place to drink, bunk-in and conveniently repeat. In other words, a booze-...

Paul Christiansen

in Loạt Soạt

Saigoneer Bookshelf: Direct Routes to Whimsy in 'Ticket to Childhood'

Children can “hear the music and see the colors of letters on a page — magic portals to a wilderness without fixed meanings… all adults see are the neat rows of black lines, the building blocks of def...

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Nhậu and Forming Friendships the Laotian Way in Saigon

“Here we go, I’m gonna do it,” I proclaim to a table of eight friends. On the tip of my chopsticks is a single ant egg, the “pearl of the forest” as some call it. Instead of ending in a dramatic burst...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Coconut Coffee and Banana Bread in a Quiet Corner of Thao Dien

Thao Dien is known to some as a quiet neighborhood, despite its ongoing development projects. Upscale restaurants and fancy cafes are plentiful, serving a range of gourmet food and drinks. Yet, in bet...

Paul Christiansen

in Society

How to Juggle Newfound Attention as an Introvert and One of Forbes' 30 Under 30

With a devious grin on her face, Hau snatched the oversized plush pillow resembling a tree trunk from my hands, exclaiming, “Mine! And third steal so no one can take it away.”

Michael Tatarski

in Society

On Its 10th Anniversary, a Look Back at H2H Charity Ride's Hanoi-Saigon Journey

On April 26, the H2H charity bicycle ride completed its 10th edition. Short for Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City, the endeavor has evolved from a ragtag group of friends to a much more organized operation ov...

in Travel

[Photos] Playing Beneath Galvanic Skies in an Isolated Laos Village

I left Nong Khiaw and began a demanding drive down a dirt track, trying to find a village I’d only seen on satellite images on Google Maps. It lay nestled right on top of a distant peak.

in Travel

Tea, Comfort Food and Unique Antiques at Villa Royale

Two large crane statues stand atop ceremonial turtles with lotus flowers in their mouths on either side of the entrance to Villa Royale.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: The Deep-Fried Satisfaction of Steamy Bánh Gối

Thanks to being born and bred in Hanoi, I definitely have a love-hate relationship with the city. That said, there are more “loves” than “hates” on my list, and street food in Hanoi plays a huge part ...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Finding Your Path at a Downtown Vegan Buffet

Peaceful music that chimes with joy, monks that greet you with smiles, and a delectable donation-based vegan buffet — it's a little heaven on earth. Well, heaven underneath a derelict building on Ton ...

in Music & Arts

Matca Opens New Photography Space With 'A Little Bit of This and That' Exhibition

Photography and visual arts magazine Matca expanded their horizons last week with the opening of a new exhibition space in Hanoi.

in Food Culture

Chả Lụa Fit for a Kingdom: How Thailand Fell in Love With Vietnamese Ham

Instead of sunny Saigon, I found myself yet again in relentlessly sunny Bangkok. I had a convenient excuse though: attending a close friend’s wedding.

in Travel

[Photos] Born in California, a Vietnamese-American Returns to Traverse Vietnam

My parents are originally from Vietnam and came to the United States as refugees after the war. I was born in Orange County, California, where many Vietnamese people who came to America made their new...

Michael Tatarski

in Music & Arts

[Photos] Krossing Over Arts Festival Wraps up a Striking Week of Performances

The third edition of the Krossing Over Arts Festival ended in Saigon on Thursday, capping a week of exciting workshops, artist talks and contemporary dance performances.

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: A Bowl of Tripe Noodles That Takes You Straight to Hong Kong

In the public discourse surrounding beef and its culinary application, more often than not there’s barely any space for tripe.

in Travel

Born in California, a Vietnamese-American Returned to Vietnam. This Is What She Saw.

My parents are originally from Vietnam and came to the United States as refugees after the war. I was born in Orange County, California, where many Vietnamese people who came to America made their new...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: When a Saigon Cafe Gets Its Hanoi Quirks Just Right

There are three H’s that best encompass Vietnam: Hanoi, the capital; Hue, the ancient capital; and Ho Chi Minh City, the economic center. While I am still struck by Hue’s vibrant culture, my memories ...

in Culture

The Pink, Minimalist Aesthetic Enticing Hanoi's Millennials

At the intersection between Hang Bong and Phung Hung streets, there is a bakery whose lavender armchairs look as if they are made from giant ladyfingers. It’s called Baked by Julie and, since ope...

Michael Tatarski

in Music & Arts

Krossing Over Arts Festival Returns, This Time With a Series of Shows in Hanoi

Now in its third edition, the Krossing Over Arts Festival is currently taking place in Saigon and will this year be expanding to Hanoi too, with events beginning at the end of next week. 

in Sports

Vietnam Comes to a Halt to Celebrate U-12 Football Victory

Editor's note: Happy April Fools' Day! This article was part of Saigoneer's 2019 April Fools' Day celebration. This is a work of fiction. Names, characters, businesses, places, events, locales, a...

Michael Tatarski

in Music & Arts

The Return of Krossing Over Arts Festival: Deeper, Bolder, Wider

Now in its third edition, the Krossing Over Arts Festival begins later this week and is expanding both in scope, with more events planned, and reach, as Hanoi is now on the schedule as well.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Immerse Yourself in the Traditional Architecture of Cafe Nha San

Nestled deep in a dead-end street reached through a warren of alleyways from an almost impossible-to-see entrance is an ancient-looking building. This stunning traditional Vietnamese stilt-house is on...

in Environment

Tam Dao's Bear Sanctuary and the Fight Against Bile Farms

Bear bile farming is a custom that originates from China, having been practiced for thousands of years. The bile, harvested from bears’ gallbladders, is used in various traditional Chinese medicines. ...

in Music & Arts

Slow Craft: How a Photo Artist Built a Home for Analog Photography in Saigon

The digital age is in full swing, and photography its loyal servant. The last century has seen the art form seamlessly transform several times, allowing itself to be reframed and repurposed time ...

Khoi Pham

in Culture

Bưu Hoa Stamp Project Is an Online Chronicle of Vietnam's Philatelic History

Among the best ways to learn of a country’s culture and history is looking at its stamp design through the ages. These paper tokens follow their owners’ letters to all corners of the world, serving as...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Authentic French Pastries in an Unexpected Part of Town

Perhaps a story not too unfamiliar to many: Tom Nguyen grew up in France as a French-Vietnamese. Any similarity in background with other Viet Kieu, however, ends rather quickly. About two years ago, N...

Brian Letwin

in Saigon

From Botany Institute to Amusement Park: The Evolution of Thao Cam Vien Sai Gon

Local parks such as the Jardin d’Espagne and Jardin de la Ville, now Tao Dan Park, were a focal point of Saigon’s early urban development. But no green space carried such significance as the Jardin Bo...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Sumptuous Xôi From One of Hanoi's Friendliest Street Food Vendors

If you live in Vietnam, then you’ll already know how vital rice is here, and the role it plays in almost every meal we eat.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Where Chay Alter Egos of Vietnam's Everyday Soups Reign

My first-ever vegetarian dish, long before I followed a plant-based diet, was hủ tiếu chay, and since then it has been my go-to order when trying a new restaurant. Besides, you definitely cannot go wr...

in Music & Arts

Abstract Art Exhibition Examines Rural-Urban Divide From Two Perspectives

On February 20, VICAS Art Studio opened its latest exhibition, the endearingly named ‘EM CHÀO CÁC BÁC!’ (‘HI THERE, CITY FOLKS!’) Featuring new paintings from artists Doan Xuan Tung and Nguyen Nghia C...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: One Family's Unexpected Outpost at the Foot of Langbiang

Lac Duong, a township 12 kilometers north of central Da Lat, isn't exactly a place where one would expect to find some international comfort.

Paul Christiansen

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Making Good Life Decisions With Midday Rice Wine and Hanoi Deep-Fried Food

The Subcommittee for Sustainable Fishing? The Office of Dipterocarp Record-Keeping? The Directorate of Synthetic Rubber Quality Control? Ride-Share Hygiene Board? It was difficult to assess who exactl...

Khoi Pham

in Travel

[Photos] On Photographing the Gentle Romance of a Hueless Hue

Any mention of Hue or Hoi An within a conversation about central Vietnam tends to conjure up images of intensely vibrant colors: crimson paper lanterns dotting the sky; neighborhoods filled with the d...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Vintage Sound Systems and Birds of Prey Coexist in Café Nhac Xua

A quaint melody drifts out of Nhac Xua and over to one side of West Lake, where café owner Nguyen Duy Binh and I sit. The calming, classical, Vietnamese-style guitar-driven music, is soothing.

in Food Culture

The Distinctly Da Lat Comfort of Bonding Over Coffee Beans

After a two-year stint as an English teacher in Saigon, Nick Melhuish decided that it was time to call it quits. He moved to Da Lat with his partner Brianna and his dog Sausage to open a bed & breakfa...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: The Dish That Smells Like Regret but Tastes Like Happiness

If you’re a food lover, there is one dirt-cheap, aromatic Hanoi snack that you must try: bún đậu mắm tôm.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: A Masterful Osaka-Style Okonomiyaki in Binh Thanh

An honest-to-god Japanese izakaya is a beautiful thing. Dark and smoky, often decked out in wood furnishings and yellowing travel posters, its flawless blend of bar and restaurant often involves nothi...

in Eat & Drink

Fresh Catch: Mediterranean “Boat-to-Table” Concept Breathes New Life into Modernist Villa

District 1’s Phan Ke Binh Street only spans two blocks, yet it contains an assortment of culinary gems. In an alley on the edge of Nguyen Dinh Chieu sits a handsome modernist villa that is now home to...

Chris Humphrey

in Travel

[Photos] Ha Giang: Evocative Portraits From Hoang Su Phi

Nestled amid the textured, corduroy rice terraces of Ha Giang Province lies Hoang Su Phi, a rural district that’s home to an array of ethnic minority communities.

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Culture

International Photographer Captures Spirit of Đạo Mẫu in Vibrant Photo Book

Tewfic El-Sawy’s introduction to Đạo Mẫu, also known as the Mother Goddess religion, began with music.

Michael Tatarski

in Travel

[Photos] Saigoneer Getaways: Dak Lak and an Abundance of Central Highlands Charm

For many, Tet is a time to reunite with family they haven't seen in months. For those like me without relatives in Vietnam, it's the perfect time to take a break from increasingly stressful city life....

in Music & Arts

One Artist, 500 Volunteers and 168,000 Recycled Straws: A Clarion Call Against Plastic

Viral photographer Benjamin Von Wong is no stranger to making waves with his mind-blowing photography, often dedicated to raising awareness about environmental issues while blurring the lines between ...

in Environment

Can Gory Animal Statues Shock Vietnam Into Shunning Wildlife Products?

On January 28, three statues — including one of a rhino bleeding with its horn cut off, an elephant whose tusks are broken and two de-scaled pangolins — went on display at Vinh Nghiem Pagoda in Saigon...

in Society

Saigon's Stand-up Scene Grows up, but the Jokes Remain

Comic Uy Le will freely tell anyone, preferably on stage with a spotlight and a hot mic, that he doesn’t get along with other comics. “Because I don’t smoke, drink and still have a future,” Uy shared....

Chris Humphrey

in Travel

[Photos] Exploring the Myriad Cathedrals of Nam Dinh Province

Though they receive more attention, the cathedrals of Hanoi and Saigon pale in comparison to those found in Nam Dinh Province. What’s more, the area not only boasts a surprising array of these magnifi...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: De Tam Café Adds a Contemporary Touch to a Familiar Retro Aesthetic

As soon as you walk into De Tam’s leafy entrance courtyard, a familiar vintage theme becomes apparent. An entire wall is covered in shelves containing over 100 film cameras and lenses, while record pl...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: A Bowl of Hanoi's Southern-Style Bún Bò in the South

Fabien from France and Trang from Hanoi led a very different life just a year ago. They were running a Vietnamese restaurant nearly 12,000 kilometers away from Saigon, in Morocco.

in Food Culture

Da Lat, the Unlikely Home of El Salvador's Rare Pacamara Coffee Beans

In a previous life, Nguyen Van Son was an auto parts salesperson. As a gift of appreciation for his wife, he acquired a seemingly trivial plot of land in Da Lat and made it a place where the family co...

in Food Culture

In Saigon, a Quest for Sustainable, Healthy Coffee Consumption Is Brewing

The first moment I spotted the crisp blue door on Truong Dinh Street in District 3, I was drawn to it. I wanted to go in. And so I did, not knowing that I was opening the door into the world of sustai...

Paul Christiansen

in Food Culture

A History of Rice Wine, Part 2: A Traditional Craft Slowed to a Trickle

Rose-tinted shades and long swept-back hair tickling the collar of a half-unbuttoned maroon shirt that revealed a dangling peace-sign pendant: at age 27, Minh was the epitome of 70s Saigon cool. More ...

in Music & Arts

Art in the Clouds: Into Thin Air 2 and the Promise of Digital Exhibits

As a metropolis of nearly eight million, Hanoi is like many other Asian cities: blooming with people, culture, and hectic lifestyles. Along with rampant development, the city faces concerns such as ai...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Lost in the Half-Childlike, Half-Adult World of 'The Little Prince'

Remember the tale about a little boy who travels planet to planet on a quest to discover and retrieve lessons about the adult world? This cafe is yet another untold chapter of that story.

in Travel

How Hemingway Inspired a Cyclist to Scale the Heights of Northern Vietnam

Former Saigon resident Dale Nottingham has conquered Vietnam’s extreme northern highlands by bicycle, climbing 22,587 meters over 1,306 kilometers during an epic 12-day ride that started in Bac Kan Pr...

in Food Culture

The Lush Da Lat Cottage That Houses Unexpected Italian Delights

As Da Lat’s wet season comes to a close, cool weather and sunshine greet local and foreign visitors on a daily basis. People from colder cities such as Hanoi appreciate Da Lat’s comfortable average of...

in Society

Robot Combat Show Brings Metallic Carnage to Primetime in Vietnam

While many enjoy watching robots like Transformers do battle on the big screen, some Vietnamese audiences have developed an appetite for real steel.

in Culture

[Video] At FEEL It Festival, a Full Display of Saigon's Vibrant Street Culture

On December 15, Saigon's underground street scene was on full display on a rooftop in District 7, with freestyle skating, vibrant graffitti and local musicians.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Take a Ride on Ha Dong’s Hipster Bus Café

When you initially spot the café, it’s hard to tell exactly what it is — it isn’t hurtling towards you at 50 miles per hour and doesn’t have helmet shrapnel from its previous victims stuck to its...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Mexican Simplicity and Zen-Like Tacos in D3

Tacos, and the many meat-and-tortilla variations we often categorize as ‘Mexican cuisine,’ are having a bit of a renaissance in Saigon.

in Environment

The Growing Trash Mountains Threatening Phu Quoc's Way of Life

Phu Quoc is facing a growing pollution issue that’s threatening its burgeoning tourism sector, lush environment and local communities. With verdant jungles and aqua blue seas, the island is one of Vie...

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: At Thương Library, a Shrine to Leonard Cohen and How the Light Gets In

At the risk of appearing like a pretentious prig, I will begin this Hẻm Gem review with the introduction of a foreign word: the weirdly specific concept of smultronstället.

in Music & Arts

A Night of Revelations at the Saigon Opera House

A concert of Brahms' Symphony No. 4 held on a Sunday night last month at the Saigon Opera House presented a series of somewhat startling revelations.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Cu Xa, the Cafe That Awakens Your Childhood Self

“Where is home?” is a question that at some point has probably nagged everyone who feels caught between worlds. To the owner of a retro cafe in Hanoi’s southern Dong Da District, it’s Cu Xa.

Tam Le

in Culture

From Entrepreneur to Organic Farmer: A Hmong Woman's Quest to Better Sapa

“You forgot to say ‘Uno’!” Lang Giang cheerfully exclaims before covering her mouth in laughter. It’s the twelfth time she’s caught me this trip and blocked me from winning. By this point in our trek,...

Khoi Pham

in Culture

[Photos] A Quiet Saturday at Saigon's Greenest Tomb, Lang Ong Ba Chieu

Going from central District 1 into Binh Thanh in northern Saigon, you might have spotted the compound before: a spacious tree-lined temple flanked by four streets just a stone’s throw away from Ba Chi...

in Travel

Saigoneer Getaways: Off the Beaten Path in Hong Kong's Old-School Side

There was once a time when Saigon and Hong Kong were rivals in the exotic east, both jostling for the cultural title of “Pearl of the Orient”. With British colonialism on one side and French on the ot...

in Hanoi

The Hanoian Family Tracing 700 Years of Ancestral History

There’s a certain air of intrigue one feels upon entering one of Hanoi’s many labyrinthine alleyways. Anything could be around the corner: a raucous market, a hair salon or a nhà nghỉ. These areas pro...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Oozing Quail Egg Bánh Giò for Upcoming Winter Days

After a long, draining day at work, the unexpected discovery of a steaming, peppery bánh giò, complete with oozing quail eggs, is the ultimate remedy.  

in Travel

[Photos] Pseudo-Suicide and Evil Spirits at Bali’s Usaba Manggung Celebration

Each year in Bali’s Bugbug Village, Hindus gather to take part in a three-day celebration that includes splashing holy water, atavistic wailing and role-play suicide to ward off evil spirits. &nb...

Michael Tatarski

in Society

Laiday Refill Station Sells a Sustainable Lifestyle to All Saigoneers

While many individuals and businesses in Saigon are working to reduce their reliance on single-use plastics, Quyen Nguyen and Helly Tong decided to take action even further. 

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gem: In D5, Spicy Phá Lấu Skewers Worth Suffering Traffic For

Saigon has a wonderful tropical climate with two seasons: dry and wet. As the cold weather approaches, chasing the blazing heat away, we all crave for some hot and steamy dishes to keep warm.

Chris Humphrey

in Travel

[Photos] Reaping the Rice Harvest in Mu Cang Chai

Each September, the rice fields of Mu Cang Chai turn ripe and as gold as coins, and then the back-breaking work begins.

in Saigon

Saigon Heat Overcome Early Butterflies, Outduel Knights in Season Debut

A tight game knotted 80-80, seemingly headed for overtime. The Saigon crowd is biting their nails as their two top scorers have just fouled out. And Vietnamese-American star Justin Young launches a fi...

Chris Humphrey

in Music & Arts

Q&A: Six Austin, Texas Musicians on the Excitement of Playing Quest Festival

Quest Festival is just around the corner, and this year sees a curious new addition – Project ATX6, a music documentary project that sends six emerging Austin musicians to perform at three internation...

in Food Culture

What We Talk About When We Talk About Bánh Mì

Bánh mì is without a doubt a Vietnamese staple. Versatile, convenient and affordable, the sandwich has gotten so popular in recent years in Vietnam and elsewhere that phở shouldn’t be complacent, as i...

Chris Humphrey

in Music & Arts

In Bac Ninh, New Residency Program Unites International Artists With Local Artisans

In a country with surprisingly few artist-in-residence programs, live.make.share represents a rare opportunity for cultural symbiosis and artistic development by giving international artists the chanc...

Chris Humphrey

in Music & Arts

The Children: Earnestness, Heartbreak and Acceptance on Debut Album ‘Con Duong’

On their debut album, Con Đường, the much loved Hanoi outfit bring a darker yet more mature sound that speaks as much about the depths of heartbreak and loss as it does hope.

Michael Tatarski

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Come for the Architecture, Stay for the Architecture

In an age when seemingly every building in Saigon has been knocked down for redevelopment at least once, it's rare to be able to spend time in a truly unique architectural gem.

in Saigon

Busy Bookaholics, Behold Saigon's First-Ever Book Vending Machine

The vending machine is located at Sense Market underneath September 23 Park.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: In a D1 Corner, a Heated Battle Between Yellow Noodles and Red Noodles

At the northernmost end of Saigon’s bustling District 1, the end of Hai Ba Trung Street leading to Phu Nhuan District is known best for heavy rush hour traffic. But a curious textbook case of an Asian...

in Architecture

More Than Just an Identity, Saigon's Modernist Architecture Reflects Past Optimism for a New Era

The last 30 years have seen unprecedented economic development in Ho Chi Minh City. Since Doi Moi relaxed foreign investment laws back in 1986, the city has welcomed change with open arms and increasi...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: On Hàng Bài, Golden Bún Cá Thái Bình in a Hole in the Wall

When a friend of mine returned home after living abroad last year, he longed for a bowl of bún cá. I suggested the classic Hanoi dish, with satisfyingly oily deep-fried fish, but he had other ideas&nb...

Lee Starnes

in Travel

[Photos] Urbanist Travel Getaways: Pastoral Scenes of Pindaya, Myanmar

Myanmar is no longer the secret of Southeast Asia. With tourist numbers increasing, its dusty country roads, seemingly endless parades of monks and crumbling colonial architecture are now officially a...

Michael Tatarski

in Music & Arts

In Saigon's Latest Indie Workshop, a Heaven for Eco-Friendly Risograph Prints

Nestled above inpages in Thao Dien, a new print studio is offering artists and other creatives a new way to express their ideas and visions.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Ingenuity Meets Tradition at Phở Cuốn Hung Ben

As traditional and unchanging as Hanoi’s cuisine may seem to visitors, creativity can still be found below the surface. Every now and then, a novel dish catches on and becomes the talk of the town, an...

Chris Humphrey

in Culture

[Photos] The Unbridled Joy of Hanoi’s Walking Streets

In a claustrophobic city where cramped houses huddle shoulder-to-shoulder and roads resemble battlegrounds, walking streets provide a rare breathing space for people used to clamor. More importantly, ...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: At Bun Bo Hue Thu Thuy, a Broth That Bridges Tastes

In only three places have I enjoyed truly sumptuous bowls of bún bò giò heo: in its hometown of Hue, in Hoi An and at Bun Bo Hue Thu Thuy in Hanoi.

Paul Christiansen

in Food Culture

A Saigon Pop-Up Fuses Mexican and Vietnamese Fares, One Pun at a Time

More romantic than the season's first snow dusting a trampled field of post-harvest corn husks; more inspiring than stars strewn across a cloudless night sky; more alluring than fragrant pollen drifti...

in Travel

Experience: I Was a Tour Guide in North Korea During the Era of Otto Warmbier

In 2017, I worked as a tour guide and social media manager for the same North Korean tour company that brought Otto Warmbier to visit the nation. The period climaxed, tragically, in his death. Back th...

in Music & Arts

Workroom Four’s Annual Open Exhibition Running in Hanoi Next Week

This year marks the fifth time the event has taken place, with over 6,500 visitors and nearly 500 artists taking part over the least four years.  

Michael Tatarski

in Travel

[Photos] Tokyo's Historic Tsukiji Fish Market After the Morning Rush

Tsukiji Fish Market has been one of Tokyo's most well-known destinations for centuries, famous for its early-morning tuna auctions and frenetic wholesale seafood stalls. Yesterday, however, its inner ...

in Hotels

In One of the World’s Most Intense Cities, Vietnam’s Tallest Hotel Provides a Weekend Escape

Hanoi has a reputation for being one of the most hectic and chaotic cities in Southeast Asia. While this provides much of the vibrancy and energy of the capital, it also seeps into you and leaves you ...

in Travel

[Photos] Grandma, Barber, Farmer, Friend: Portraits of Everyday Life in Central Vietnam

After Ninh Binh, a beautiful area crossed by spectacular rivers and crowned by mountains, I followed the Ho Chi Minh Road as far as Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park. Photo opportunities there were hard...

in Society

[Photos] From Mui Ne to Can Tho: A Visual Exploration of Life in Southern Vietnam

Leaving behind the mountains and valleys of northern and central Vietnam, I was welcomed by the landscapes of southern provinces: beautiful, windy beaches, sprawling rivers in the Mekong Delta and bus...

in Sports

Fitness, Flexibility and Mindful Meditation: There's Something for Everyone in Saigon's Yoga Scene

During Saigon’s lunch hour, you won’t find Jiva sitting on any street side. That’s because she’s busy leading the city’s lunchtime renegades, a group that sacrifices that precious hour of eating to ge...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Autumnal Golden Hours Are the Key Ingredient in Cô Thoa’s Bún Bò Nam Bộ

Hanoi’s fascination with bún is endless. There are more varieties in this city than anywhere else in Vietnam. Bún has a lot more to offer than phở, especially as it can be served cool and dry, as seen...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: On the Road to Ruin, From Budapest to Binh Thanh

The southern edge of Binh Thanh is one of Saigon’s most fascinating areas. More cosmopolitan than the district would have you believe, its maze-like streets hold a heady mix of different influences. W...

in Travel

[Photos] Portraits From the Jagged Borderlands of Northern Vietnam

The night after I bought my motorbike, I dreamt of aspiring mountains and plunging valleys. At dawn, I stuffed everything I had onto the racks above the bike’s rear wheel and started heading north, le...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Madam Oyster Proves that Taiwanese Food Is More Than Just Milk Tea

Arguably one of the most underrated cuisines in Asia, Taiwanese fare has remained under the radar in Saigon for a long time, even though Taiwanese business owners were among the first foreign business...

in Society

[Photos] Former Street Kid Reveals the Reality of Hanoi’s Homeless Youth

I grew up in a very poor family in Nam Dinh Province. When I was 14, I traveled to Hanoi to shine shoes, in the hope that I could earn money and support my family. But after a year and a half working ...

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Cam Cam Kafe and the Fujian Pagoda That Inspired Its Name

I wish I could claim that I discovered Cam Cam Kafe by myself. Tucked away in a corner unit up the second floor of a nondescript apartment in District 5, the coffee shop seems mostly undetectable from...

in Travel

[Photos] The Young Man and The Sea: Fishing at Dawn by the Cham Islands

There I was again, squeaky wooden floorboards under my feet, dodging coils of soaked, salty ropes and boxes upon boxes of freshly caught fish. I wasn't going to leave Hoi An until I could join a fishi...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: At Tropical Forest, Coworkers and Plants Thrive in a Unique Ecosystem

Tropical Forest isn’t one of those adorable coffee shops you find hidden away in one of Hanoi’s many pokey alleyways. In fact, it’s quite the opposite – its large glass presence resembles a giant terr...

in Sports

No Turnbuckles, No Ropes, No Problem for Saigon's Pro Wrestlers

Damien Wolfe rained down blow after blow on spindly Phong Tran (not pictured above), with onlookers jeering and questioning his humanity. Then, out of the blue, Phong sprang to life and leapt into the...

in Culture

[Photos] An Homage to the Colorful Characters of Hanoi

There you are, waiting on the edge of the sidewalk.

Michael Tatarski

in Development

[Photos] A Visit to Landmark 81, the Roof of Saigon

Over the last year, Saigon's skyline has become dominated by a skyscraper in Binh Thanh District.

in Society

Vietnam's First Gran Fondo Cycling Event a Hit in Hue

For cycling addicts and ‘casuals’ alike, there’s a new event in Vietnam to start training for.

Michael Tatarski

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: On Eating Greek With Chopsticks

Who says excellent Greek food can't be served on the same menu as Korean tofu along the Nhieu Loc-Thi Nghe Canal?

in Culture

In Hanoi, a Home for Vintage One-Piece Swimwear Slows Down Fast Fashion

Ellen Downes is on the hunt for bathing suits. She trawls the narrow alleys of the Old Quarter for vintage and second-hand shops, scours the aisles of the used market on Dong Tac Street, and hops off ...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: A Canal Cafe and Bar as Rustic as Its Name Promises

Driving leisurely along Hoang Sa Street, I stopped in front of a small coffee shop called Lao Hac — a retro-style cafe that's hidden behind the perennial flowering vines within sight of Nhieu Loc...

Thi Nguyen

in Development

[Photos] A Two-Minute Ride on Saigon's Shortest, Most Anticlimactic Ferry Trip

The accelerated urbanization of Saigon has led to the rapid metamorphosis of its landscape. This process, however, is hardly evenly distributed. While residents living in the inner city's center ...

Michael Tatarski

in Travel

Urbanist Travel Getaways: Vietnam’s Subterranean Wonders

The dense, untouched forests of Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park in Quang Binh Province hide some of the world’s greatest underground geological formations. Beneath the park’s stunning limestone mounta...

Chris Humphrey

in Culture

[Photos] Wild Celebrations Follow Vietnam’s Quarter-Final Victory Against Syria

Last night, Vietnam beat Syria 1-0, taking them into the semi-finals of the Asian Games for the first time in history.

Chris Humphrey

in Culture

[Photos] Manga Costumes and Virtual Idols at Japanese Cosplay Festival

Last weekend, the Ichigo Ichie 2018 Japanese Culture Festival - Kamisama & Yokai, which took place at Hanoi Children's Cultural Center, brought gloriously eccentric cosplay characters to the capital.

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: On the Hunt for Succulent Seared Chicken in an Old French Apartment

As far as urban nooks go, exploring Saigon’s apartment buildings is perhaps the best way to discover new hangouts, Instagrammable corners and amazing views of the city.

Chris Humphrey

in Music & Arts

Interactive Art Installation ‘Synescape: Please Touch’ Enthralls the Senses

Anita Wilczęga sits on a stool in Tinh Dau art studio, trying to explain the final project she’ll curate in Vietnam before departing for Italy. Behind her, ten white boxes hang from the rafters, swayi...

in Music & Arts

Q&A: How A O Show Creative Director Tuan Le Actualized His Vision for Performance Art in Vietnam

Some may say that modern performance art in Vietnam looks the way it does thanks to the works of Tuan Le and his colleagues. Almost two decades into a series of smashing theatrical successes across th...

in Music & Arts

Q&A: AO Show Creative Director Tuan Le Had a Vision for Performance Art in Vietnam. And He Built It.

Some may say that modern performance art in Vietnam looks the way it does thanks to the works of Tuan Le and his colleagues. Almost two decades into a series of smashing theatrical successes across th...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Tried-and-True Singaporean-Style Hainanese Chicken Rice in D4

Every foodie who has visited the island-nation of Singapore has probably heard about about a local specialty known as Hainanese chicken rice. With a Michelin star and Michelin Bib Gourmand title, ...

Chris Humphrey

in Travel

[Photos] An Urbexer’s Paradise: Inside the Rides of Hanoi’s Abandoned Water Park

Almost everyone has, by now, heard of Hue’s apocalyptic abandoned waterpark – a place so eerie it feels like entering a Jurassic World sequel. Who knew there was another park right here in Hanoi?

in Music & Arts

Sixty Square: Crumbling Colonial Buildings House Hanoi’s Hippest New Art Quarter

Ever since the closure of Zone 9, Hanoi’s young artists have been longing for a new spot to rise from the ashes and fill the hole the defunct art hub left in the capital's creative landscape. Creative...

in Music & Arts

[Photos] In Minimalist Street Photography, Good Frames Come to Those Who Wait

Photographer Victor Morante is all about the little details in a frame.

in Saigon

Saigon Pilots Taxi Stand Program With 5 Official Stops in D1

To address traffic congestion caused by slapdash passenger pick-ups, the city's Department of Transportation is establishing official taxi stands in central areas on a six-month trial basis.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Kamon – Authentic Japanese Cuisine Served With a Side of Persian Rugs

Tucked away amongst a row of cafes on Van Phuc Street is a curious Japanese restaurant – beneath the bright red KAMON sign above its entrance and the usual menus offering sashimi and sushi is an altog...

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Lured by the Promise of 7-Way Noodles, We Found Delicious Dim Sum in D5

Come for the seven-way noodles, stay for the dim sum.

Brian Letwin

in Travel

[Photos] Urbanist Travel Getaways: Cat Tien National Park

Three hours northeast of Saigon sits a patch of verdant forest among a landscape of neverending rice paddies. Cat Tien National Park is the closest you can get to hike-able, pristine nature from the m...

Michael Tatarski

in Music & Arts

[Video] Saigon-Based Directors Feature Abandoned Hue Waterpark in New Music Video

A small boat reaches shore and an adventure begins at the wild, abandoned Ho Thuy Tien Waterpark outside of Hue.

in Society

Dining in the Dark: Employment for the Blind in Saigon

Tucked down a small alleyway in the heart of Saigon is a restaurant where patrons voluntarily eat their meals in the dark. For a brief time, guests are at the mercy of the darkness, a condition that t...

Thi Nguyen

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: The Delectable Comfort of Xuan Dieu's No-Name Bánh Đa Trộn

With most of my life having been spent living in Saigon, the concept of bánh đa was first introduced to me by a mass-produced instant crab noodle soup package. 

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: At Ngọt Cafe, a Treasure Trove of Saigon's Childhood Snacks and Knick-Knacks

To me, Saigon is not just a city, it is the people, the lifestyle and the cafés.

Chris Humphrey

in Literature

Alain de Botton Visits Vietnam: 'What I Want to Argue Is That Romanticism Has Been a Disaster for Love.'

It’s not often that a philosopher of Alain de Botton’s status visits Vietnam, so it was no surprise that all 50 seats on the upper floor of Toong Coworking Space were occupied, with most tickets snapp...

in Arts & Culture

[Photos] A Converse-Royal Costume Mashup for Vietnam's History Buffs and Sneakerheads

‘Tis the time for wearable history.

in Saigon

[Photos] The Retail Section of Vietnam's Tallest Building, Landmark 81, Is Now Open

The retail section of Landmark 81, Vietnam's tallest building, opened last Thursday, July 26.

in Vietnam

[Photos] A Final Family Journey Through Vietnamese Landscapes in the 1800s

This is the third and final collection from my family’s photography archives, and it is also the most important to me. Beyond my family’s colonial past, it is this last series of images that have infl...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Old-School 'Take It or Leave It' Nam Dinh Phở in District 3

Pho Dau captures the essence of the Nam Dinh soul food that the owner brought with her to Saigon six decades ago.

in Travel

[Photos] In Saigon's Buu Long Pagoda, a Meditative Escape and Pan-Southeast Asian Architecture

It all started with a sparkle on the horizon, a beam of solar brilliance bouncing off a garish metallic surface.

in Vietnam

[Photos] Family Albums Depict the Everyday Lives of Vietnamese People in the Late 1800s

Following last week’s photo essay on railway construction, this week’s images focus on the everyday lives of people in northern Vietnam. 

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Northern-Style Miến Lươn Is a Magical Saigon Breakfast

Mien Luon Cho Ben Thanh was the final destination in my parents’ 20-year quest to find an authentic northern miến lươn in Saigon.

in Food Culture

A Cozy Abode of Bak Kut Teh and Migrant Teochew Gastronomy in the Heart of Saigon

Singaporean Teochew bak kut teh is a seemingly simple broth made with pork ribs that has managed to enamor locals and foreigners for decades.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Steamed Hai Phong Rice Cakes at Banh Beo Cho Do

That the most delicious food in Vietnam is usually found on top of shabby plastic tables is an incontrovertible truth. So much so that modernity has done something strange: we feel skeptical when seei...

Michael Tatarski

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Set an Alarm, We're Waking up Early for Dim Sum in D11

According to historical legend, dim sum was created along the ancient Silk Road as a snack for weary travelers to enjoy with their tea while resting. On this day, I felt like I had traversed that fabl...

in Culture

Hanoi Gets Inked: Expo Showcases Vietnam’s Tattoo Boom

When Link Do was a child in Hanoi, she learned English from an American woman with a tattoo on her hand. Link, who loved to draw, thought the tattoo was beautiful, and began to imagine a future as an ...

in Travel

Urbanist Travel Getaways: Discovering Serenity in Bhutan – The Other Hermit Kingdom

Only a handful of pilots can manage the treacherous flight into Bhutan’s tiny international airport. As the plane tilts for the final descent, passengers gather by the windows — smartphones recor...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Inside Le Thanh Ton's Japan Town Lives Saigon's Best Katsu

Inside the unofficial Japanese quarter of Saigon lies scrumptious katsu and oyakodon to suit all palates. For beginners like myself at one point in time, the existence of Fujiro can swing open many ne...

Chris Humphrey

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Old Hanoi Aesthetics and Durian Milk-Tea at Cafe Minh

Whether a grey-eyed morning or a long-tailed dusk, it makes little difference in Café Minh. The windows, opaque from a history of cigarettes and road dust, barely let in any light. The groan of motorb...

in Culture

Intellectual Debate Bridges Communities at Hanoi Philosophy Forum

The answers to life’s burning questions are often found in unlikely places. A cozy ‘birds’ nest’ café at the end of a crumbling alley fits that stereotype rather well. At 7.30 every Wednesday night, l...

in Culture

[Photos] Skaters Descend on Ly Thai To Park for Annual ‘Go Skateboarding Day’

Go Skateboarding Day is an official annual holiday for skaters around the globe. The occasion is all about celebrating skateboarding communities and, at Ly Thai To Park last Thursday, more than 100 sk...

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: An Authentic Hai Phong Bánh Đa Cua Right in the Heart of D1

I am a fervent champion of all things noodles.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Piquant Broth and Tangy Snails at Bun Oc Co Hue

There’s nothing fancy about Bun Oc Co Hue. You’ll find makeshift awnings and a leaning mahogany tree outside, and tattered walls and faded floral tiles within. The shop itself is 28 years old, the sam...

Lee Starnes

in Travel

Urbanist Travel Getaways: Exploring the Izakayas of Japan

“I always liked side-paths, little dark back-alleys behind the main road,” Dostoyevsky writes in his 1879 novel, The Brothers Karamazov. “There one finds adventures and surprises, and precious metal i...

in Fashion

Classic Italian Suits Adapted for Contemporary Businessmen in Vietnam’s Tropical Climate

With each skin Vietnam sheds as it moves towards development and prosperity, it undergoes fundamental shifts, and no more so than in the country’s culture and aesthetics.

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Pandan and Durian Gelato for a Sizzling Summer Day in Saigon

My earliest memory of ice cream in Saigon involves savoring Kem Bach Dang’s renowned kem trái dừa: scoops of coconut ice cream in a coconut husk topped with an assortment of fresh and jammed fruits.

Chris Humphrey

in Travel

[Photos] Exploring Dala Township on the River Yangon's South Shore

Only a 10-minute ferry ride from central Yangon, Dala is a blur of motorbike horns, trishaw drivers peddling scams and old ships rusting on the riverbank.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: In Tan Binh, VND4,000 Is All You Need for Good Bia Hơi

Bia hơi for the people.

in Food Culture

New Cookbook 'Vegetarian Vietnam' Boldy Reinvents Traditional Classics

In his new cookbook Vegetarian Vietnam, Canadian chef Cameron Stauch boldly reinterprets traditional Vietnamese dishes while retaining their authenticity.

Chris Humphrey

in Culture

[Photos] In Tho Ha Village, Locals Work From Dawn to Create Rice Paper

A few hours after sunrise in the small village of Tho Ha, alleyways morph into picturesque tunnels of drying rice paper, while ladies toast crackers over fire in the streets. 

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Craft Beer and Deep Conversation in a Cargo Ship Container

From Pasteur Street to Standing Bar, the capital hides a plethora of hop spots, but its newest entrant might be the most unique.

in Music & Arts

Quyech: Mischief Merchants on Trees, Artist Archetypes and Rules for Creativity

Thanks to a minor miscommunication, the three members of Quyech who participated in this interview (more on the fourth later) arrived at different times.

in Music & Arts

Q&A: Six Space Founder Le Giang on the Hard Work of Contemporary Vietnamese Art

Hanoi-based visual artist Le Giang is an educator and co-founder of Six Space, an artist-run venue dedicated to exhibitions, workshops, film screenings and talks. Her practice spans installations, scu...

in Culture

In Bắc Giang, 'Mudball' Is a Centuries-Old Festive Sport

Held once every four years, the mud wrestling festival in Vân Village in Bắc Giang Province is one of the most dramatic and unique festivals in all of Vietnam.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: The Bánh Cuốn That’s Worth a Year of Waiting

Mrs. An’s bánh cuốn won the heart of world-renowned chef Bobby Chinn, kept lines of die-hard fans waiting outside and left a number of hearts broken when it disappeared for almost a year.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Cozy Autumn Flavors at Tokyo Moon, Japan Town's Korean Cafe

Tokyo Moon's presence is an odd-but-welcoming representation of South Korean hospitality in the heart of Le Thanh Ton's "Japan Town" with its mysterious herbal tonic, sweet potato pastry and pumpkin c...

Chris Humphrey

in Music & Arts

Sirens of Ha Long: Facetiousness and Vitriol on Debut EP ‘Rampant Happiness’

Having released Rampant Happiness, their debut EP, only a few weeks ago, and with a string of live shows lined up to debut upcoming music videos, Sirens of Ha Long are on the rise.  

in Travel

[Photos] Naypyidaw's Ghostly Central Train Station

Naypyidaw central train station, 11am. A heavy cloud hangs over the entire place. The moment you set foot in the city, it gives you the chills.

Alberto Prieto

in Travel

[Photos] Saigoneer Getaways: Ha Giang's Mighty Loop

I’ve spent seven years in Vietnam and traveled from south to north on many occasions, but I have never seen a place as charming as Ha Giang Province.

in Society

Opinion: The Virtues of Riding the Saigon Bus

On a brutally hot day back in January, I was riding Saigon bus No. 65 out to District 10 when I made an amateur’s mistake.

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: At Things Café, Humans, Cats and Nat King Cole Coexist in a Harmonious Ecosystem

I admit that it’s taken me great pains to write this week’s Hẻm Gem.

Chris Humphrey

in Travel

Soviet Accommodation, Forest Cabins and a Hobbit House: The Eccentricity of Nha Ben Rung

“It is a rocket center. The Soviets, they stayed there to control the rockets…” These are not exactly the kind of words you expect to hear from a homestay owner in northern Vietnam, especially not whe...

in Saigon

[Photos] A Stroll Around 1969-1970 Saigon

Take a stroll through Saigon in 1969-1970 thanks to these black and white photos.

Michael Tatarski

in Travel

Saigoneer Getaways: Vietnam's Best 'Secret' Beach Destination

When it comes to tourism in Vietnam, it's hard not to be depressed by the frequent news of ruinous cable cars and mega-resorts, often accompanied by bulldozed natural areas.

in Development

One of Hanoi’s Last Remaining Wet Markets, Chau Long, Is Still Standing Strong, But for How Long?

Located in the center of Hanoi’s Ba Dinh District, Chau Long Market stands in stark contrast to the surrounding urban residences and bustling streets. It is one of the last remaining traditional marke...

in Culture

A Visit to Hanoi's Birdsong Clubs: Have You Heard the Call of the Oriental White-Eye?

Birdsong clubs, a tradition originating from China, are one of Hanoi’s hidden gems. If you’re willing to really look for them, it’s possible to find huge collections of birds kept in finely decorated ...

Thi Nguyen

in Arts & Culture

Feminist Art Project 'Lip Xinh' Is an Archive of Unabashed Intimacies

Located inside a modest space on the fourth floor of a cafe, the Lip Xinh exhibition made its statement the moment you set foot inside the space: the act of simply confronting your private parts ...

in Travel

Nepal’s Annapurna Circuit: A Beautiful Trek Amidst Change

In through your nose, out through your mouth. You can do this. In through your nose, aaaaand out through your mouth. I keep reminding myself how to breathe.

in Music & Arts

Q&A: Over a Hundred Street Artists Visit Hue for Annual Meeting of Styles Event

Since 2002, a collective known as Meeting of Styles has been organizing street art events around the world. According to its website, it is “an international network of graffiti artists and aficionado...

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Best Bánh Căn Da Lat...in Saigon

Is there any cooking utensil that’s as magical as the bánh căn mold?

Chris Humphrey

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Homemade Chilli Sauce and Aromatic Broth at Ever-Moving Spicy Pho Bay

Despite having changed locations twice in the last three years, Spicy Pho Bay remains one of Tay Ho’s most popular street food spots.

in Music & Arts

[Photos] The New, Illusory Trompe-l'œil Murals on Hanoi's Railway Arches

On one end of Long Bien Bridge, so far from the often-photographed main structure that it's considered by many to be a separate attraction in its own right, a massive art project fills the sealed arch...

Lee Starnes

in Travel

[Photos] The Rugged Beauty of Indonesia's Komodo National Park

Most people think of dragons when they hear about Komodo. While the world's largest lizards are one reason to journey to this remote corner of the world, the rugged vistas and incredible biodiver...

Chris Humphrey

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Duy Tri - One of Hanoi’s Original Cafes

Modern-day Hanoi is a labyrinth of new developments, with some areas already feeling the effects of gentrification. That certainly wasn't the case back in 1936, when Café Duy Tri first opened its door...

Thi Nguyen

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Refreshing Đá Me and a Touch of Pre-1975 Tunes at 81 Cafe

Given the city’s hot weather, cold drinks are Saigon's very own specialty. While cà phê sữa đá and trà đá are timeless staples, in recent years we have also witnessed the rise of milk tea shops in alm...

in Culture

Inside the 170-Year-Old Homestead of Vuong Hong Sen, Vietnam's Famed Historian

This noble house is one of Saigon's dormant treasures. Dating back to 1848, it once hosted a notable Saigoneer, Vuong Hong Sen, and his family now calls it home. The lives of its current inhabitants i...

in Development

Opinion: The Surreal Rise of Vietnam's Gated Communities

Vietnam is shifting from the old world to the new. As socialism yields to capitalism, waves of foreign investment are reshaping both the nation’s values and its landscapes. In rural areas, these winds...

in Saigon

[Photos] A Day in the Life of Saigon's Apartment Dwellers

When I arrived here ten years ago, I lived in the Eden Building, until it was destroyed to put in yet another shopping mall. Escalators and lifts in this mall are at a standstill. The corridors are no...

in Music & Arts

[Photos] Parkour Meets Fire Spinning in Abandoned Lideco Neighborhood

Back in 2007, construction began on Lideco, which was supposed to become a paradise for Hanoi's super-rich. Like Ciputra or Royal City, it was intended to be an all-inclusive development, with housing...

in Society

The Unseen Layers of Donkey Bakery

I almost missed the entrance to the bakery as its sign was partly obscured by a leafy tree. I skidded to a stop and hurried in to my appointment. Behind the counter, a manager was speaking in hushed, ...

Chris Humphrey

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Tender Strips of Garlic-Infused Beef at Pho Thin

In the midst of a Hanoian winter, all you want is warmth. The houses aren't built for the cold, and on a bike at night, the chill seeps right into you. At lunch or after work, there's nothing better t...

Michael Tatarski

in Music & Arts

Dancers, Visual Artists Collaborate at Unique Saigon Arts Festival

From April 16 to 22, the Krossing Over Arts Festival will bring together artists and dancers for performances across Saigon.

Paul Christiansen

in Culture

Whale Worship: Exploring the Role of Whales in Vietnam's Coastal Lore

In 1799, the ferocious Tay Son army forced the first Nguyen Emperor, Nguyen Anh, and his troops to flee to the sea. While making their escape, a great storm engulfed the retreating army. As their ship...

in Travel

[Photos] Exploring Hanoi's Eerie 'Skeleton Cave'

Halfway between Hanoi and Ba Vi National Park lies Thay Pagoda, a Buddhist temple technically within the city limits. It’s a beautiful building in its own right, but what’s more fascinating is Ca...

Chris Humphrey

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Refreshing Cocktails at Hanoi’s Best Hole-in-the-Wall

Bars in Hanoi don’t come much smaller than Dot. Its width is no more than the span of my arms, but what it lacks in size it more than makes up for in value and substance. You’d barely notice the place...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Mutahiro's Masterful Chicken Ramen

Ramen is often the preferred choice of Japanese comfort food in Southeast Asia, yet finding an impressive offering of the dish in Saigon has proven to be a challenge. The appearance of Mutahiro i...

in Society

In Rural Tay Ninh, Teach For Vietnam Brings a Jolt of Change to English Teaching

Vu Thi Hang’s (not pictured above) teaching style is far from traditional.

Chris Humphrey

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Yen Phu's Banh Xeo Spot Is Legit

Any street food restaurant you regularly pass on your commute, or that lies within the local area where you live, is likely to receive your patronage more often than most. Minh Banh Xeo is no exceptio...

Paul Christiansen

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Pass the Bánh Ướt on the Left-Hand Side

Thanks to Banh Uot Banh Me, you can finally put to use those rolling skills you honed back in your university days...rolling gỏi cuốn, obviously (wink).

Chris Humphrey

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Vegan Buffet, Nourishment That Makes You Feel Good

Anyone who’s lived in Vietnam for any reasonable length of time will have heard of cơm bình dân – rice buffets offering an abundance of meat and vegetables during lunch hours. In recent years, however...

in Travel

In Bangkok's Sunday Market 'Baan Yuan,' Flavors of Vietnam Abound

A stroll down the start of Soi Samsen 13 was utterly uninteresting at the beginning: it first appeared to be a typical Thai soi (alley) filled with SUVs and shuttered shops on a typical Sunday morning...

Chris Humphrey

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Trainspotting and Nostalgia at The Railway Hanoi

The stretch of railway between Tran Phu Street and Dien Bien Phu Street is quickly becoming one of the hippest spots in Hanoi. In the last couple of years, a social enterprise named Zo Project, a fash...

Chris Humphrey

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Cuoi Ngo – One of Hanoi’s Most Hidden Cafés

If you’ve managed to find Cafe Cuoi Ngo, then you deserve to see it. The place feels like a well-kept secret, but it’s so hard to find that I don’t think publishing this article will overburden the sp...

in Travel

[Photos] Kahtein Festival: The Joy of Giving in Myanmar’s Shan State

Nestled in the luscious green hills of Myanmar's Shan State and peppered with Buddhist temples, the sleepy town of Hsipaw is perhaps not the most obvious location for a bustling street party.

Paul Christiansen

in Asia

Celebrity Endorsements Might Be the Key to Combating Poaching in Asia, Campaign Shows

International conservation organization WildAid is teaming up with the world’s largest outdoor advertising company, JCDecaux, to help save some of the planet’s most endangered species.

Thi Nguyen

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Unapologetic Simplicity of Ben Thanh's Bun Rieu Ganh

Working in the middle of a market that houses a plethora of food collectives can be a double-edged sword. It's convenient when you’re pressed for time, but after a while, you tend to get lazy and just...

in Travel

A Pilgrimage to the Grave of Vo Thi Sau on Con Dao Island

“Every time they had a chance to go by the grave, they would put a stone on it, burn an incense stick or stick a flower they had picked up from the roadside on the grave to show their respect and ador...

in Travel

Saigoneer Getaways: Indulging Your Inner Castaway on Con Dao

Knowing the time of the tides is important here. The shallow waters around the 16 islands which make up the Con Dao Archipelago some 240 kilometers south of Saigon make for impressive golden beaches a...

Michael Tatarski

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: A No-Name Chợ Cũ Food Collective to Satisfy All Your Snack Cravings

Some street eateries in Saigon are so good they don't need a name.

Paul Christiansen

in Literature

A Vietnamese-American Poet's First Return to Vietnam After Half a Century

The barking of a nearby dog forced Hoa Nguyen to pause mid-stanza. It was as if the canine was attempting to collaborate with her poem, a fitting start to the Year of the Dog. This young year saw the ...

Tam Le

in Arts & Culture

[Photos] In Saigon's Labyrinth of Alleys, Textures and Typographies Galore

Saigon, like New York or Tokyo, is a city renowned for its crowds—the chaotic jostling of people pressing past other people that occurs whenever millions of lives inhabit the same few square meters. T...

Michael Tatarski

in Travel

[Photos] A Pre-Tet Trip to Sa Dec, the Mekong Delta's Flower Capital

Sa Dec, a small Mekong Delta city four hours away from Saigon, turns into a vibrant flower kingdom in the weeks leading up to Tet.

Brian Letwin

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Chu Se's 65 Years of Hủ Tiếu Mì by the Calmette Bridge

Saigon is home to a number of street food eateries that span generations, from a 100-year old vegetarian joint to a 70-year-old hủ tiếu Mỹ Tho restaurant right in the heart of District 1.

in Food Culture

[Photos] Saigon's Forward-Looking Cafes on the Future of Coffee

  In the first part of our two-part photo project on Saigon's coffee shops, Saigoneer paid a visit to two old-school cafes with decades of heritage. In the second part, we're shining the limel...

in Food Culture

[Photos] Saigon's Old-School Cafes Hold Fast to Time-Honored Traditions

In a city of rapid change, there is no doubt that opinions on many subjects vary with passion and, sometimes, noticeable subtlety.

in Arts & Culture

Empty Forest: Dissecting the Fraught Relationship Between Man and Animal

In April 2010, a ranger in Dong Nai Province’s Cat Tien National Park found a rhino skeleton with its horn chopped off. Illegal poachers had killed the last Javan rhinoceros on mainland Southeast Asia...

Khoi Pham

in Arts & Culture

Preserving Hanoi's Hang Trong Paintings Through Digitization

You’ve probably spotted them before: a black catfish leaping out of the water, people dressed in ancient festive costumes or, most famously, a pack of five tigers staring at you with piercing eyes. Th...

Michael Tatarski

in Travel

[Photos] Hue's Abandoned Waterpark Is a Post-Apocalyptic Beauty

Just south of Hue sits the Ho Thuy Tien Waterpark. Once a sign of aspirational middle-class family entertainment, it now sits abandoned, creating an eerie, graffiti-splashed destination in its own rig...

Brian Letwin

in Food Culture

Hẻm Gems: In Thao Dien, a Modernist Building Houses D2's Best Bánh Canh Stall

For many Saigoneers, central Thao Dien is known for its plethora of high-end restaurants catering to the neighborhood’s large expat population. However, if one looks closely enough between the scores ...

Thi Nguyen

in Literature

On Reading Thi Bui's Illustrated Memoir 'The Best We Could Do' in Saigon

One of my favorite pastimes during summer holidays was reading through the textbooks for my next school year. History textbooks were the most interesting and fun to read: they were like the Harry Pott...

Khoi Pham

in Saigon

Memories of 1997 Vietnam Through the Lens of Saigon's Canadian Consul General

Digging into one’s collection of old mementos can be a thrilling experience. From antique watches to tattered letters, these trinkets serve as a remembrance of a period of time in our past. For Kyle N...

in Arts & Culture

Saigon Couple Adds a Pre-Doi Moi Style Twist to Wedding Photos

Ask any Vietnamese person to describe a typical wedding album from memory and the answer is likely to be the same each time. The bride wears a floor-length gown or a full áo dài khăn đóng getup, the g...

in Society

[Photos] Inside Binh Thanh's Xóm Nước Đen by the Cau Bong Canal

In recent years, development in Saigon has exploded, giving rise to towering skyscrapers, office towers and residential complexes throughout the southern hub. But even as the city’s modernization hits...

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Vietnam

[Photos] The Iconic La Dalat, Vietnam’s First Domestic Vehicle

Though production only lasted five years, the La Dalat has earned a place in Saigon history as Vietnam’s first locally manufactured commercial car.

Michael Tatarski

in Development

On Preserving Laos' Botanical Diversity in the Garden of Luang Prabang

In a region where rapid urbanization, hydropower development and resource demand is devastating natural ecosystems, a dedicated team is working hard to preserve Laos’ unique plant species.

Michael Tatarski

in Travel

[Photos] Saigoneer Getaways: The Serenity of Japan's Countryside

Japan is rightfully famous for its exciting, neon-bathed major cities. Every year, Tokyo and Osaka draw millions of visitors with their incredible food and bars, as well as their mix of traditional an...

Lee Starnes

in Travel

[Photos] The Hair-Raising Experience of Exploring South Korea's Creepiest Psychiatric Hospital

While accounts on the history of Gonjiam Psychiatric Hospital are hazy, the facility was allegedly abandoned in 1996 and left to decay on a hillside outside the town of Gyeonggi-do, about an hour and ...

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: In Hẻm 284, O Thu Brings a Touch of Hue to Saigon With Cơm Hến

As the sun went down and Saigon’s throngs of workers ventured out of their office nests to fill local streets, I was perched on a red plastic stool in a hẻm in District 3 weeping and snorting like an ...

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Travel

Mai Chau: A Delicate Balance of Mass Tourism and Independent Travel

With an expected 13 million international visitors this year, not to mention an ever-increasing number of domestic tourists, Vietnam’s tourism industry is growing at a rapid pace. Across the country, ...

in Travel

[Photos] Under the Great Northern Sky: Life in Vietnam's Pastoral Provinces

In my travels, I don't think I've ever found a nation like Vietnam, whose landscapes differ so vastly from north to south. I imagine the great hills and sharp peaks of the north as the scaly, rugged h...

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Food Culture

Sủi Dìn’s Journey From Imperial China to the Streets of Hai Phong

The first time I stumbled upon cô Ut’s nightly sidewalk ritual, the performance was already well under way. Perched on the low steps of what serves as a VietinBank branch by day, the young woman sat r...

in Arts & Culture

Dragonfly Theater Brings Award-Winning Broadway Comedy ‘Lend Me a Tenor’ to Saigon

On Saturday morning, in a small studio at Asia Music & Performing Arts Education, members of the Dragonfly Theater Company were frantically getting ready for rehearsal. On the floor were makeshift sta...

in Society

[Photos] Conquering Saigon's Concrete Jungle

The concept of urban exploration certainly isn’t in its infancy anymore: across Instagram and other social media feeds, photographs of masked lunatics dangling from skyscrapers abound. While many peop...

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Chinese-Malaysian Noodles and Saigon's New Generation of Street Food

When it comes to Saigon’s culinary landscape, the southern hub is pretty progressive. In addition to an array of Vietnamese dishes from every corner of the country, the city has also acquired a cosmop...

Khoi Pham

in Film & TV

Short Film 'The Old Ways' Reminds Us Why We Love Vietnam's Northwest

Travelogues are a special genre of video. For those who have set foot in the actual locations featured, perhaps nothing could compare with being able to immerse oneself in the local landscape and cult...

in Travel

[Photos] Saigoneer Getaways: The Winding Roads of Ha Giang

There are places in the world that humble us with the scale of their beauty, making us feel small and insignificant in the best possible way. Ha Giang is one of those places.

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Arts & Culture

A Very Saigon Collaboration: Hey Camel Ceramics and Linda Mai Phung’s Workwear Collection

Saigon breeds unusual collaborations. Take a walk around most neighborhoods and you’ll spot the odd storefront that sells both cơm chiên and motorbike parts, or an entrepreneurial spirit who’s managed...

in Music & Arts

Exploring the Human Condition Through a Fusion of the Familiar and the Strange

In his most recent exhibition, "Paradise Lost", Hoi An-based artist Hoang Thanh Vinh Phong offers a menacing interpretation of day-to-day life. In a selection of seven works of art spanning multiple m...

in Arts & Culture

For Saigon's Circus Performers, Money Is a Problem. But the Lack of Viewers Hurts the Most.

Nestled in a corner of Phu Nhuan District’s Gia Dinh Park, the Phuong Nam Circus is hidden under a canopy of towering trees. The main facility is an old, patched-up canvas that’s seen better days, whi...

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Ingenuity of 24-Way Grilled Oysters in D4

Innovation is important. With a healthy imagination and a bit of gusto, humans have the ability to create everything from DIY submarines to all-terrain wheelchairs to helmets specifically for married ...

in Society

New Saigon Heat Coach Shakes up Team Roster Ahead of Next Season

Not many professional basketball coaches guide their team to a league title and then bolt to lead a new franchise on the other side of the planet.

in Travel

[Photos] Saigoneer Getaways: Laos' 50 Shades of Green

The first thing you notice when you arrive in Laos is the green: it’s everywhere. It’s not the buildings that catch your eye but the landscapes: untouched wilderness, valleys, trees, fields, all of it...

in Society

Readers’ Choice: What Are Saigon’s Best Up-and-Coming Neighborhoods?

As Saigon continues to grow and develop by the day, the city's transformation is more visible in some neighborhoods than others. Earlier this month, we asked Saigoneer readers to let us know which nei...

Michael Tatarski

in Travel

[Photos] Saigoneer Getaways: Tokyo's Historic Tsukiji Fish Market After the Morning Rush

Tsukiji Market is one of Tokyo's most well-known destinations, famous for its early-morning tuna auctions and frenetic wholesale seafood stalls. However, visiting the market once the action has died d...

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Green Delight of Phu Yen's Bánh Canh Hẹ

In the age of the internet, we go back and forth about everything, including whether or not the most important meal of the day is, in fact, important. While members of the medical profession continue ...

in Food Culture

Viet Nam Mien Ngon: A Journey in Watercolor Through Vietnam's Diverse Cuisine

Vietnam has long been an enthralling destination for foodies near and far – just ask Anthony Bourdain, the globetrotting New York chef who has repeatedly professed his love for the Southeast Asian cou...

in Saigon

Saigon Begins Removing Trees Along Ton Duc Thang for Bridge Construction

Saigon recently started cutting down or relocating 258 trees on Ton Duc Thang Street to prepare for construction of a new bridge connecting District 1 and District 2.

in Society

[Photos] Early Morning Exploration at Ho Thi Ky Flower Market

Flowers are ubiquitous in Saigon. Everywhere you go, the concrete backdrop of the city is punctuated by beautifully maintained gardens, lotus ponds and elaborate floral arrangements. Saigon’s resident...

in Sports

In Its Second Season, Vietnam's Pro Basketball League Continues to Grow

Fresh from the success of its 2016 debut, the Vietnam Basketball Association (VBA) recently began its second season. In addition to an increase in the league’s number of competing teams, the VBA is al...

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Sumptuous Street Snacks of Ha Cao Ban Co

Whether we’re talking about the packaged foods aisle at Circle K or the lady whipping up bánh tráng trộn on the street corner, snack foods often meet two distinct criteria: they are both delicious and...

in Culture

[Photos] Color and Lights: Tet Trung Thu on D5's Lantern Street

Every fall, District 5’s Luong Nhu Hoc Street becomes a melee of lanterns, kids’ toys and dragon dance paraphernalia ahead of the Mid-Autumn Festival.

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: An Evening of Bánh Xèo Phan Rang and People-Watching by the Canal

There are certain foods in life that take time to love. Mắm tôm, for instance, or mắm chưng. Any of the mắms, really. Durian, I’m told, is a wonderful fruit on the fourth or fifth try. And while some ...

in Society

[Photos] The Last Remaining Blacksmiths of Bien Hoa

Smithy 12 is a traditional, family blacksmith brand near Bien Hoa’s Don Market, which has been active for almost 100 years. The business is not only one workshop but rather a collection of smithies he...

Michael Tatarski

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: A Quick, Delicious, No-Nonsense Lunch at Quan Com Ga Hai Nam

Now that I'm on my fourth chicken-centric Hẻm Gem, I guess I might as well start carrying out these assignments dressed as a chicken.

in Food Culture

Meet Linh Nguyen, the Fulbright Scholar Spreading Vietnamese Culture Through Food

Linh Nguyen is a Fulbright scholar, blogger and writer whose first book, Lemongrass, Ginger and Mint Vietnamese Cookbook: Classic Vietnamese Street Food Made at Home, became an Amazon bestseller after...

Khoi Pham

in Arts & Culture

Young Saigoneers Encapsulate the Charm of Ben Thanh Market in Mini Wooden Model

There’s no doubt that Saigon is a charming city. From internationally produced films such as The Quiet American to colorful art projects by local illustrators, the city’s landmarks seem to be popular ...

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Sủi Cảo and Handmade Noodles, a Match Made in Food Heaven

Is this the best mì sủi cảo in Saigon? I don’t know, but it’s pretty goddamn delicious.

in Travel

[Photos] On the Early Morning Trail in Da Lat, Romance and Halcyon in the Mist

Vietnam is a country that rises early. Before the sun comes up, you’ll find street vendors hauling out their wares, elderly people exercising in the park and kids shuffling off to school.

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Travel

Tourism Businesses Are Trying to Clean up Vietnam

The sun already threatens to sap our energy even though it’s barely mid-morning on Thanh Da Island. Devoid of the tall buildings and claustrophobic blocks found downtown, this small patch of greenery ...

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Phieu Ky’s Fantastic Phở Sa Tế

While Pho Phieu Ky’s white walls and fluorescent lighting are nothing special, the hideaway shop in District 5 makes up for its bland color scheme by pasting neon characters – Roman and Chinese – acro...

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Cô Nhi and Chú Den's Humble Nui Xào Bò Cart

At this point in our Hẻm Gem journey, I’ve stopped thinking of us – a two-person team consisting of me and my photographer colleague Brandon – as mere food reviewers, but rather food hunters from hunt...

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Arts & Culture

The Renovation Generation: Exploring What It Means to Be Young and Vietnamese

In the years after 1986, Vietnam’s Doi Moi economic reforms transformed one of the world’s poorest countries into a dynamic, fast-growing nation, shaping a generation of young Vietnamese into bright, ...

in Music & Arts

Art Photographer Explores Vietnam's Spirituality Through Muted Conversations

In his latest exhibition, Muted Conversations, Vu Tien Dat invites his audience to explore the unspoken in Vietnam’s spirituality and superstitions.

Michael Tatarski

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Praise Be to Cheap, Tender, Delicious Chicken by the Mosque

Thanks to central Saigon's blistering pace of development and the short-lived sidewalk-clearing campaign of 2017's early months, the downtown area can be something of a street food desert.

in Society

[Photos] Wander Through Ton That Dam's Chợ Cũ at Twilight

Downtown Saigon is in flux these days, as old buildings come down and new structures rise from the rubble. While the past few years have brought major changes to District 1, this year has been particu...

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Chef Badeh Brings Syrian Cuisine to Saigon

In the small covered area outside the front door, Chef Badeh brings together two of my favorite things: bread and fire.

in Arts & Culture

Saigon Spaces: Reuse, Recycle and Reinvent

In a slightly tired traditional tenement block in District 1 is Huong Nguyen’s latest renovation project, a studio apartment overlooking Nguyen Du. Shaded by an old tamarind tree, the building was ori...

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Kickin' It at Kim Thao's Hột Vịt Lộn Hangout

In the thick of rainy season, afternoon snack spots are hard to come by. Street vendors make do with cement-weighted umbrellas and heavily used tarpaulin, carving out (relatively) dry patches on the s...

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Travel

Is Over-Tourism Threatening Sapa?

Heading back from So’s village, there is only one way into Sapa, and one way out.

in Saigon

[Photos] Saigon Then & Now: Chợ Cũ

In today's Saigon, Chợ Cũ on Ton That Dam Street might appear like a derelict wet market, but in its heyday, the street used to be home to a bustling commercial area where merchants from all over...

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: In Search of Saigon's Best Home-Cooked Char Kway Teow

Saigon’s street vendors are a special bunch. They come in various shapes, sizes and backgrounds, but all have one raison d'être: creating the most enticing and memorable dishes that leave patrons year...

in Society

Saigon's Tattoo Culture Flourishes Thanks to Changing Attitudes

Danis Nguyen remembers the first time he saw a tattoo. It was on TV, in a world far away from his childhood home in Nha Trang: a world of rebellion, electric guitars and round sunglasses. At 18, ...

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Health

In Vietnam, Taboo and Tradition Hinder Contraception Awareness

With many urban Vietnamese waiting longer to get married, the country’s younger generations are recognizing the need to open up about sex education in the conservative country.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Bowl of Cao Lầu Worth a Run Across the City

Hoi An's cuisine makes a modest appearance in District 7's food paradise.

Michael Tatarski

in Arts & Culture

[Photos] Taipei's Ghostly Disused Leprosy Sanitarium

Taipei is known as a highly advanced, efficient city famous for modern marvels such as the Taipei 101 and a fantastic metro system.

Michael Tatarski

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The D5 Beefsteak Joint That Means Business

There is no shortage of restaurants slinging beef-based dishes in Saigon, but every now and then one comes along and stands out from the pack.

Brian Letwin

in Development

[Photos] The Last Vestiges of Saigon's Natural Landscape in District 2

On the eastern edge of District 2’s An Phu lies one of the last vestiges of Saigon's wilderness, a shrinking area that is slowly being chipped away for new infrastructure projects and dense developmen...

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Co Huoi and Her West-of-the-Border Delights

One of my favorite Saigon pastimes is wandering around strange neighborhoods. If you’re feeling lost or bored or lonely or just a little too comfortable, have someone drop you off in a district you do...

in Arts & Culture

Saigon Spaces: Huy Nguyen's Home for Repurposed Vintage Treasures

Huy Nguyen’s lovingly restored colonial-era bolt-hole, tucked away above a hẻm off Nguyen Hue, is a masterclass in making the best use of small spaces. As the owner of Mountain Retreat restaurant, Ngu...

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Life-Changing Beauty of Bánh Cuốn Trứng

If I have to drive eight kilometers across the city to get breakfast, it’d better be damn good.

in Society

Out and About in Binh Thanh's Budding Japan Town

Only a ten-minute ride away from Saigon's established Little Tokyo, another Japanese neighborhood is in the making in Binh Thanh District — and it's a whole world apart.

Michael Tatarski

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Pasteur Street's Well-Hidden Cơm Trưa Mother Lode

Every once in a while, you come across a simple Vietnamese restaurant that absolutely blows you away.

Brian Letwin

in Society

[Photos] This Binh Duong Warehouse Is a Treasure Trove of Vietnam's Automotive Heritage

In a dusty Binh Duong warehouse lies one of the world’s largest collections of Citroën Traction Avants, a car commonly associated with Vietnam’s late colonial era. One might hazard a guess that the co...

Khoi Pham

in Literature

Award-Winning Vietnamese Children's Book 'The First Journey' Finally Released

It’s been over a year since we wrote about The First Journey, the award-winning children's book that clinched the top prize at 2016’s Asia-wide Scholastic Picture Book Award competition.

Michael Tatarski

in Music & Arts

'Girls Rock Asia' Brings Together Female Musicians From Across Southeast Asia

Southeast Asia isn’t particularly well-known for its live music scene. Major international acts might only play Bangkok or Singapore, if they stop in the region at all. Home-grown acts are common, but...

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: D5's Bò Xào Sa Tế, a Feast for All the Senses

Saigon is changing at a dizzying rate, and so is its food scene: forget about your favorite café or restaurant for a few months and you can come back one day to find it replaced by a convenience store...

Michael Tatarski

in Travel

[Photos] A Peek Inside Da Lat's Abandoned Franciscan Mission

Da Lat is rightfully beloved for its cool climate, pine-scented air and verdant mountains. However, there is more to this popular Central Highlands city than just natural escapes.

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Music & Arts

A Present Retrospective: Fusing Past, Present and Propaganda

Work Room Four’s current exhibition, A Present Retrospective, connects past and present in the iconic work of Cuban graphic artist René Mederos and the responses of five contemporary Vietnamese artist...

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Quan 249’s Wondrous Cơm Chiên Emporium

It’s 6pm on a Thursday, and I’m up to my eyeballs in cơm chiên. Page after page, Quan 249’s excessively handled menu features a laundry list of fried rice combinations, some you’ve heard of, some you ...

Khoi Pham

in Music & Arts

[Video] Saigoneer Session: Ca Hoi Hoang's Paper Dream

The first time I met Ca Hoi Hoang frontman Nguyen Viet Thanh and band leader Nguyen Thanh Minh was in the midst of a sweltering Saigon afternoon.

Mel Schenck

in Architecture

Opinion: Saigon’s Architecture Should Express Our Times Today, Not the Past

Based upon its fascinating history, modern-day Saigon displays a rich character all its own, with buildings across the city representing each era of its storied past. However, several faux colonial bu...

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Music & Arts

French Hip-Hop Meets Viet Rap in New Piu Piu Collaboration

As Vietnam’s underground hip-hop scene begins to emerge into the spotlight, one of its rising stars joins forces with an up-and-coming foreign artist to create a track for worldwide release.

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: To Chan's Noodle Soup Offers Comfort in a Bowl

If you turn up to a hủ tiếu spot anywhere in this city and there is not a hand-painted, wooden noodle cart taking up one corner of the venue, you may want to think twice about sitting down.

Michael Tatarski

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: D5's Glorious Com Tam Is the Perfect Drunk Food

Saigon is a city of a million cơm tấm carts, meaning it is easy to pick one at random and chow down. But some stand out from the crowd.

in Saigon

[Photos] Saigon Is Going Green With These Smart Trashcans

If you’ve been hanging out on Nguyen Hue Boulevard recently, you probably noticed the presence of Saigon’s new “smart trashcans”.

Michael Tatarski

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Anh Tư's Dreamy Grilled Chicken in Binh Thanh

Around the Saigoneer office I've become the go-to scribe when it comes to chicken-related Hẻm Gems. Therefore, when a friend described a Binh Thanh-based restaurant with dozens of chickens hanging abo...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: An Excursion to Tan Dinh's Secret Bún Hideout

Life is slow in the jungle of hẻms that branches out from Dinh Cong Trang Street. Here, a bún establishment offers noodles of northern heritage using recipes handed down through generations of family....

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Balanced Beauty of Bacon and Fried Rice

Our dining experience at A Lung was remarkably simple: there was no turning back when we saw bacon on the menu.

Michael Tatarski

in Society

Chasing Pavements: In Defense of Saigon's Sidewalk Economy

As Doan Ngoc Hai, the leader of Saigon’s most aggressive sidewalk-clearing campaign in recent memory, takes a brief hiatus, headlines about towed cars and demolished buildings often obscure the r...

Michael Tatarski

in Travel

Looking Ahead While Remembering the Past: Cu Lac’s Bomb Crater Bar

The village of Cu Lac in central Vietnam is a postcard image of rural life. Water buffaloes and cattle graze among low-slung houses, and verdant rice paddies stretch to the nearby Ho Chi Minh Highway....

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Chicken Noodles in Phu Nhuan's Flower Neighborhood

Located deep in the heart of Phu Nhuan District’s “flower” neighborhood, Mi Ga Lua Hong offers up a solid addition to Saigon’s host of chicken-centric dishes: a fried chicken drumstick with dry, green...

Brian Letwin

in Food Culture

In-N-Out Burger Pop-Up Hits Saigon for One Day

A few lucky Saigoneers were able to enjoy some coveted In-N-Out munchies this afternoon as the American regional burger chain opened a pop-up shop in District 1.

in Society

[Photos] Lensational: Using Photography to Empower Women With Disabilities

Last year, social enterprise Lensational joined forces with Vietnam Assistance for the Handicapped (VNAH) in Binh Phuoc province’s Dong Xoai town to empower women with disabilities through photography...

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Arts & Culture

Art for You Returns to Saigon

In Vietnam and around the world, Art with a capital "A" can be an intimidating subject. The pressure to "get" abstract or contemporary artwork has a way of deterring some from becoming museum goers or...

Michael Tatarski

in Travel

Saigoneer Getaways: Vietnam’s Subterranean Wonders

The dense, untouched forests of Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park in Quang Binh province hide some of the world’s greatest underground geological formations. Beneath the park’s stunning limestone mounta...

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: An Expedition to D2's Hole-in-the-Wall Mexican Joint

On the modest patio in front of Simple Place, a charming little hole-in-the-wall in District 2, my Spanish coworker Victor launches into a stirring speech about tacos.

Michael Tatarski

in Society

The Rise of Saigon’s Stand-Up Scene

Ahead of Saigon’s first major international comedy festival later this month, Saigoneer talks to members of the local stand-up community, from veterans to relative newcomers, to find out where the jok...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: A Bún Bò Breakfast in D3

Tucked away in a narrow storefront along District 3’s Nguyen Thien Thuat is a mean bowl of breakfast bún bò Huế.

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Cô Khanh's Vegetarian Banquet and a Trip Down Memory Lane

On days when the thought of biting into a slab of greasy fried pork fills your gut with mild disgust, Saigon’s scores of vegetarian eateries are exactly what you need to cleanse your palate.

Lee Starnes

in Travel

Saigoneer Getaways: Exploring the Izakayas of Japan

“I always liked side-paths, little dark back-alleys behind the main road,” Dostoyevsky writes in his 1879 novel, The Brothers Karamazov. “There one finds adventures and surprises, and precious metal i...

in Saigon

Inside Saigon Official’s Controversial Sidewalk-Clearing Campaign

As a new week begins, Vice Chairman Doan Ngoc Hai of the District 1 People’s Committee has made it clear he plans to continue his sidewalk-clearing campaign.

Michael Tatarski

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Grilled Chicken With a Side of Jet Fuel

In the pantheon of great street food locations in Saigon, many of my favorite places to chow down can barely even be considered restaurants. Is there really a need for four walls and real furniture wh...

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Sports

Vietnamese Athletes Head to the Start Line in First-Ever Asian Winter Games

This week, even during Saigon’s cool, dry season mornings, people across the city will face 34-degree heat on their morning commute, many of them heading toward air-conditioned offices and shaded pati...

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Beef and Booze at Lau Bo Co Thao

The alley where cô Thao has set up shop isn’t worth remembering. A high concrete wall runs down one side, reflecting the sun that’s sapping our energy on this hot, dusty Friday afternoon, while the ot...

in Culture

At Tết Nguyên Tiêu, a Celebration of the Lunar Year's First Full Moon

Last Saturday, on the first full moon of the first lunar month, members of Saigon’s ethnic Chinese community celebrated Tet Nguyen Tieu, or the Lantern Festival.

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Refreshing Chè at Hiển Khánh, a 60-Year-Old Retro Hangout

Relishing a bowl of assorted chè at Thach Che Hien Khanh is more than just an afternoon spent shooting the breeze with friends, it’s also a trip down memory lane and an exploration into Saigon’s herit...

Michael Tatarski

in Travel

[Photos] Saigoneer Getaways: Outdoor Adventures Abound on Cat Ba Island

Our smooth ride down the Hanoi-Hai Phong expressway comes to an abrupt end when our bus lurches into Dinh Vu Port, a hopelessly run-down facility beyond the huge factories of the city’s industrial par...

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Loriekot’s Filipino Fare in the Heart of Saigon

In Saigon, there are plenty of places you don’t see when you’re breezing by on a motorbike. If you are (hopefully) focused on the road ahead, the narrow shopfronts and modest quán lining most Saigon s...

Michael Tatarski

in Literature

How Mekong Review Aims to Connect Southeast Asia Through Literature

First published in late 2015, The Mekong Review has quickly garnered a sterling reputation in a region short on quality print publications. Minh Bui Jones, its founder and editor, talks to Saigoneer a...

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: A Perfect Plate of Cơm Trưa by the River

In Saigon, cơm trưa is more than just a meal: it’s also a cultural trait, a community and, at times, a serious business, all wrapped up in a plate of freshly cooked rice and perfectly caramelized chun...

Brian Letwin

in Travel

[Photos] Saigoneer Getaways: Cat Tien National Park

Three hours northeast of Saigon sits a patch of verdant forest among a landscape of neverending rice paddies. Cat Tien National Park is the closest you can get to hike-able, pristine nature from the m...

Mel Schenck

in Architecture

How Vietnam Created Its Own Brand of Modernist Architecture

Throughout the 20th century, as Vietnam underwent dramatic historical and political changes, a unique brand of modernist architecture developed in the country, transforming its present-da...

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Getting Your Fried Chicken and Noodle Fix in D4

“When in doubt, have chicken.” – Saigoneer proverb

in Arts & Culture

Wonderfilled Magazine Explores Saigon’s Sustainable Leather Goods

Ahead of their Saigon issue, Saigoneer presents an exclusive excerpt from Wonderfilled Magazine. Now in its sixth volume, the travel magazine tells stories about creativity around the world. Each issu...

in Travel

Riding the Rails in Yangon and Beyond

“Hmmm…very interesting,” our new Myanmar friend muttered to herself, eyebrows arched, as she reached out to stroke Matt’s hirsute American arm.

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Cô Hong’s Killer Late-Night Cơm Tấm

In the 16 years she’s spent selling cơm tấm on the District 4 side of the Calmette Bridge, cô Hong has seen some things.

Brian Letwin

in Food Culture

[Photos] Rita Cafe, a Lush Oasis Under Saigon Bridge

Before it was added to Google Maps a few months back, Cafe Rita was nothing more, it seemed, than a green smudge along the District 2 side of the Saigon Bridge.

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Phu Nhuan's Beef Inferno

It might take more than a few Hẻm Gem reviews to chronicle all the things I have gone through for good food in Saigon.

in Saigon

City Approves Project to Build Underground Parking Lot Beneath Saigon Zoo

In an effort to tackle some of the city’s parking woes, municipal officials have agreed to build an underground parking lot beneath the Saigon Zoo.

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Striking a Balance With D10's Chè

If life is all about balance so, too, is food.

Brian Letwin

in Development

[Photos] Future Saigon: City Garden Phase 2

Binh Thanh District’s skyline is set to get a bit more crowded as one of the area’s largest residential developments, City Garden, is sprouting a couple of new towers.

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: D1's Rainy-Day Cháo Mực

“A cháo a day keeps the cold at bay.” – Saigoneer proverb

in Development

As Myanmar Grows, Yangon Balances History With Modern Development

Yangon has one of the most intact historic cityscapes in Southeast Asia, and under the current government administration, new development is rising fast. While deliberating over how to develop, Yangon...

Brian Letwin

in Architecture

[Photos] Saigon Architect Combines Past and Present at 4Ps Ben Thanh

In its new space near Ben Thanh Market, Saigon's most popular Japanese pizza joint, Pizza 4Ps, has managed to combine the southern hub's unique sense of place with innovative contemporary architecture...

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Society

Take a Tour of D10’s 64-Year-Old Mosque

The gate to Masjid Niamatul Islamiyah does its best to hide the shaded, green garden behind it from street view. On the outside, you’re more likely to notice the motorbike repair shop next door spilli...

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: An Old-School Nhậu on D10's Bia Hơi Block

Any self-respecting Saigoneer has a certain reverence for the art of nhậu.

Brian Letwin

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Crab Curry Fit for a King

At a glance, this week’s District 4 Hẻm Gem might appear like any typical ốc restaurant in Saigon. Quan Oc 63’s laminated menu offers up no less than 40 dishes within its sticky plastic pages. However...

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Heritage

Lost and Found: A Trip to Saigon’s Antique Market

The second he sees me, rolling down the crumbling concrete path on a dented bicycle, Chien perks up and heads in my direction.

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Nguyen Thuong Hien's Quaint Corner Juice Heaven

In Saigon, when life gives you grapefruits, you create a thriving business to sell its juice to health-conscious locals.

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Arts & Culture

International Photographer Captures Spirit of Đạo Mẫu in Vibrant New Photo Book

Tewfic El-Sawy’s introduction to Đạo Mẫu, also known as the Mother Goddess religion, began with music.

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: D1's Bún Mọc Assembly Line

We leave our office in search of District 1’s famed phở áp chảo only to find bún mọc in a hopeless place.

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Nguyen Tri Phuong's Chicken Rice Paradise

We promise this will be the last Nguyen Tri Phuong-based Hẻm Gem…for now.

in Saigon

[Photos] One Last Look at Ben Thanh Roundabout, Le Loi and 23-9 Park

On Saturday, city workers began closing off portions of Le Loi Street and Ben Thanh Market’s Quach Thi Trang Roundabout as well as uprooting trees from nearby 23-9 Park.

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Conquering the Giant Bánh Canh Ghẹ Muối Ớt Xanh of D10

My uncle used to say that you haven't had real crab until you have to cook and dismantle one. For this week’s Hẻm Gem, Saigoneer takes you on a trip to do just that, relishing real crabs by break...

in Development

[Photos] Take a Stroll Through D8's Canal Community

District 8 is undergoing major changes. Bisected by the winding Doi Canal, the area is currently home to half of the slum housing in the city, however as clean-up efforts and new construction projects...

in Arts & Culture

Youth Culture Library Finds Niche in Saigon Cafe

The Youth Culture Library sets out to become an outlet of self-expression for young people and non-commercial artists through the ultimate form of alternative culture: zines.   

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Saigon's Original Bò 7 Món

Going to dinner at Au Pagolac is like going to dinner with family. That is, of course, provided your family spans several generations and also serves its meals in crisp, white button-ups and the occas...

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: A Cuppa in Saigon's Oldest Cafe

One of the first things Co Suong does when we sit down in the back of her tiny District 3 cafe is bring out the newspaper clippings.

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Getting Lost in D3’s Soup Bermuda Triangle

During a busy Thursday lunch hour, my coworker and I commit a soup drive-by.

Lee Starnes

in Travel

[Photos] Time Stands Still on Sri Lanka's Colonial-Era Trains

The train from Colombo to Ella rolls along Sri Lanka’s undulating hills on a set of uneven tracks. Aging passenger cars, hot and crowded, click-clack past a patchwork of verdant tea plantations and qu...

in Music & Arts

After Curatorial Shift, Saigon Artbook Delivers Best Exhibition to Date

Founder Dang Thanh Long and curator Shyevin S’ng talk about the work behind Saigon Artbook’s sixth edition and what the future holds for the local nonprofit art initiative.

in Culture

[Photos] Inside Saigon's Vibrant Lantern Artisan Communities

In Saigon’s Chinese quarter, “lantern streets” have always been one of the most popular spots in the city come mid-autumn.

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Lão Hương Thân, One of Saigon's Oldest Cơm Gà Xối Mỡ Restaurants

Is there anything quite as glorious as beautifully done fried chicken?

in Heritage

[Photos] Saigon Then & Now: The Diem Coup (1963)

In September 1963, reporters and journalists began to hear rumblings about a coup that would ultimately topple the increasingly unpopular Ngo Dinh Diem regime.

in Vietnam

You Can Now Travel From Saigon to Phan Thiet in a New Luxury Passenger Car

On September 2, Saigon Railways unveiled a newly renovated car on the SPT8 train running from Ho Chi Minh City to Phan Thiet, right on time for the country’s national day celebration and the 80th...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Bún Sứa Serves Up a Jellyfish Medley Without the Sting

The menu at Bun Sua Co Hanh is geared towards diners with a hankering for seafood, and not just your regular fish and company. They serve something out of the ordinary at this slightly drab river...

in Music & Arts

Saigon Skill and the Rise of Alternative Art Projects

Saigon Skill’s first art group show was a vibrant and uplifting display of Saigon’s unheralded talents. Hopes are high that this new project will expose the untapped creatives in the city.

Khoi Pham

in Society

Catching 'Em All in Saigon: Pokemon GO Brings More Than Old School Nostalgia to Vietnam

One of my colleagues threatened to ban Pokemon GO in the Saigoneer office after he saw me catching a Pidgey, a bird-type Pokemon, at our desk.

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Slurping Mì Ốc Hến in District 4 With Công 'the Enforcer'

Shuffling along in flip-flops and a pair of baggy shorts, Công the Enforcer arrives at our table.

in Vietnam

Morning News Roundup: Vietnamese Boy Burns $1,500 Worth of Bills Using Hairdryer

Stay connected with Saigoneer on Twitter and Instagram and like us on Facebook. Vietnamese boy burns $1,500 worth of bills using hairdryer [Tuoi Tre] Northern Vie...

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Food Culture

Chowing Down on Crickets: Vietnam’s First Mass-Market Edible Insect Business

Crickets look a lot different when they’re fried and doused in seasoning.

in Literature

Meet Inrasara, the Poet Keeping Cham Culture Alive

Born in the oldest Cham village in Vietnam, poet and literary critic Inrasara has been keeping Cham literature alive for over 30 years. From textbooks to poetry, literary criticism to publishing, the ...

in Saigon

[Photos] Saigon Then & Now: Ben Thanh Market

The southern hub has seen its fair share of transformations over the years. From French colonialism to the swinging 60s, the early days of Đổi Mới to 21st-century Vietnam, Saigon’s urban lan...

Lee Starnes

in Travel

[Photos] Cool, Calm and Collected: Life in Cau Hai Lagoon

Forty kilometers southeast of Hue, Cau Hai Lagoon is among the largest freshwater lagoons in Southeast Asia. Tucked between the East Sea and the mountains of central Vietnam, its placid waters are hom...

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Development

For Japanese Retailers, Saigon Center Opening a Sign of Good Things to Come

Across the street from a colorful, decades-old Hindu temple, motorbikes pour into the parking garage of the newly opened Saigon Center. Spiraling five floors below ground, the downtown shopping m...

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Saigon’s Original Bánh Mì Breakfast

I am a lifetime supporter of the sandwich.

Michael Tatarski

in Food Culture

Crossing the DMZ: A Visit to Saigon’s North Korean Restaurant

UPDATE: We're sad to announce that as of October 2017, Ryu Gyong has been shuttered permanently, along with a few other North Korean restaurants in Da Nang, Hanoi, and Saigon.

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Dessert Happy Hour at Quynh Hoa

Just as rush hour traffic starts to pick up around me, motorbikes zipping back and forth down the wide alley, I send a message to my coworker.

Brian Letwin

in Travel

[Photos] Take a Trip Through Taipei’s Tech Wonderland

Though Taiwan is known abroad for its electronics, the most impressive by-product of this robust industry lies in the heart of Taipei.

in Music & Arts

Dislocate: Artist Bui Cong Khanh Deconstructs Vietnamese Identity

A beautiful large-scale recreation of a fortress, a photographic essay and a documentary video feature in Bui Cong Khanh’s latest exhibition, Dislocate, an impactful reminder of Vietnam’s heritage and...

in Music & Arts

Quach Phong’s Monumental Take on Vietnamese History

An ambitious and essential art project, Sketching Vietnamese History – the first major solo exhibition by established artist Quach Phong – is a tribute to Vietnam’s history and its people. It is a wor...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Good Bánh Bèo Comes to Those Who Wait

The most memorable eating experiences are the ones that take time. Of all the meals Saigon’s sidewalks can offer, the best require a pilgrimage to some faraway district and a series of trial-and-error...

in Development

Ministry of Transport Needs $10.58bn to Build Cross-Country Highway

Vietnam’s Ministry of Transport is seeking VND235.95 trillion (US$10.58 billion) for the completion of a cross-country highway that would run from Hanoi to Can Tho.

in Heritage

[Photos] Then & Now: Images From Old and New Saigon

The southern hub has seen its fair share of transformations over the years. From French colonialism to the swinging 60s, the early days of Doi Moi to 21st-century Vietnam, Saigon’s urban landscape has...

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Arts & Culture

When WRONG Is Right: Vietnamese Tradition Meets Contemporary Fashion

There’s an hour to go before Fashion4Freedom unveils its latest collection and LanVy Nguyen is buzzing about, all smiles, in sneakers and a black-and-white embroidered áo dài.

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

[Video] Hẻm Gems: Fish Balls, Curry and Noodle Soup, a Perfect Storm

Some may say that good things in life come when you least expect them, and from my encounter with this week’s Hem Gem – curry fish balls and noodles – you can count me in as a firm believer in this pa...

Lee Starnes

in Travel

[Photos] Down From the Mountains: Da Lat to Nha Trang by Motorbike

The winding northern route which snakes between Da Lat and Nha Trang is full of pine forests, mountain jungles and coastal plains.

Khoi Pham

in Vietnam

Street Cred: Han Mac Tu

Vietnam’s literary scene is filled with colorful characters and mystifying urban legends, but no other poet has received as much fanfare – or as much scrutiny – as Han Mac Tu, one of the country's mos...

Brian Letwin

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Enter the Bánh Đúc Jungle

While many of our culinary adventures take us out of our downtown comfort zone, there are a few gems hidden among the office buildings and skyscrapers of District 1.

in Tech

dumbOt: An Engineering Student's Quest to Bring Robotics to the People

Before graduating from high school, Nguyen Phuong Duy had already done more than most of his peers.

in Arts & Culture

[Photos] #WeAreSaigoneer: Instagram Shots of the Week

From Saigon market vendors to sunsets on the shores of Con Dao, this is what we saw through our lens this week.

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: For Good Phở in Saigon, a Dollar Is All You Need

You can really stretch a dollar in this country. That's two cà phê sữa đá or two bánh mì, a couple liters of bia hơi, a xe ôm ride, a well-bargained souvenir, enough snacks to constitute a meal or a s...

in Culture

[Photos] Saigon's Convenience Craze: How Corporate Chains Are Creating New Space for Civic Life

In little more than a few years, convenience store chains have taken the city by storm. You can now find a Circle K, Vin Mart, Family Mart, B’s Mart or Mini-Stop on almost every street in the city pac...

Brian Letwin

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Maison Marou: The House That Chocolate Built

Across from Ben Thanh Market sits a massive, open pit that will eventually serve as the base for a set of gleaming, modern towers housing the likes of a six-star Ritz-Carlton Hotel. But just beyond th...

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Legend of Baby African

You'll have to clear an afternoon to get to Baby African.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

[Video] Hẻm Gems: The Long but Worthwhile Wait for Xôi Chiên

They say the best things in life are worth waiting for. In the case of the elusive xôi chiên, they're right.

Lee Starnes

in Travel

Saved by Street Art: Penang's New Lease on Life

Of the 1,031 UNESCO World Heritage Sites across the planet, Penang manages to stand apart from its peers.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Binh Thanh's Delectable Bánh Căn

Located on a busy street in Binh Thanh District, Hai Ton Quan is a small, family-run restaurant that serves up Phan Rang-style cuisine, that glorious mixture of tasty, golden-brown rice cakes and fres...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

[Video] Hẻm Gems: D5’s Glorious Goat Curry

One of the benefits or writing this column is that it allows us to sample some of Saigon’s best local eateries. We may be well versed in the ways of street noshing, but once in a blue moon, we come ac...

in Music & Arts

Livinwondr: A People’s Art Project

The first installation of new community project Livinwondrexpresses the stories and creative ideas of the public through transformative media art.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Saigon's Street Food Unicorn

Not only are unicorns real, they are edible. In fact, these beauties are an animal of such mythic deliciousness that you should count yourself lucky to even catch a glimpse of one, much less feast on ...

Lee Starnes

in Travel

[Photos] Con Dao: From Prison to Paradise

Fast earning a place on travelers' radar, sleepy Con Dao is home to pristine beaches, ornate rock formations and some of Vietnam's best diving. Pair these natural attractions with the island's trouble...

Brian Letwin

in Travel

[Photos] Inside Taiwan’s Premier Fish Market

Taiwan has plenty to be proud of: it sports an efficient public transportation network, some of the highest food safety standards in the world, an abundance of nature and incredible seafood.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Eat Your Way Through Nguyen Hue's Secret Street Food Alley

Nguyen Hue's heritage has been badly degraded over the years. Thanks to the city's neverending development, its older buildings have either been torn down, used as air-conditioning unit pedestals or t...

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: A Perfect Saigon Breakfast

Most days, I roll out of bed 15 minutes after my alarm has stopped ringing, stumble downstairs, brush my teeth and leave the house just in time to grab my morning dose of caffeine before heading to th...

Lee Starnes

in Travel

[Photos] Saigoneer Getaways: A Laid-Back Morning in the Delta

While Can Tho has grown exponentially in population over the last 40 years, the capital of western Vietnam still retains much of its Delta charm. Here, the Hau River dictates local life, slowing down ...

in Music & Arts

Technology Has Officially Entered Saigon’s Art Scene

From the invention of farming to the advent of military drones, technology has shaped the economy, politics and culture of every society. It was inevitable that such a vital element of our lives would...

Tim Doling

in Saigon

Saigon’s Favorite Churches: Huyen Sy Church

Widely regarded as one of the most beautiful churches in the city, the Église Huyện Sỹ in District 1 was constructed in 1902-1905 on the corner of Rue Frère Louis (now Nguyễn Trãi Street) and Rue Frèr...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: On Eating (Chicken) Ass

Let’s play a game. I tell you a word and you tell me the first thing that comes to mind. Here goes: chicken.

Brandon Coleman

in Development

[Photos] On the Move: Saigon's Changing Transportation

Once the domain of bicycles, Saigon's narrow roads have become jam-packed over the last two decades with increasingly modern vehicles. Following a boom of motorbikes in the 1990s – first described to ...

Brian Letwin

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

[Video] Hẻm Gems: D4’s Supreme Street Sushi

There’s no shortage of solid international fare in Saigon. From Italian to Japanese, Indian to Korean, local diners are well covered. However, since most options in this category are relegated to indo...

Lee Starnes

in Development

[Photos] Tracking Saigon’s Development From Its Rooftops

Over the past decade, Saigon has transformed almost beyond recognition.

in Architecture

[Photos] A Farewell to Saigon's War-Era Water Towers

Saigon Water Company (Sawaco) is drawing up plans to destroy seven of the eight large war-era water towers scattered across the city.

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

[Video] Hẻm Gems: D1's Not-So-Secret Snail-Grilling Operation

At first glance, Oc Dao looks like a factory. A giant, secret snail-grilling operation tucked behind several twists and turns along a narrow downtown alley, where plates of fresh crustaceans are churn...

Lee Starnes

in Travel

[Photos] Time Stands Still Around Long Bien Bridge

Hanoi’s iconic Long Bien Bridge, once described as a “misshapen but essential component of Hanoi’s heritage”, has spanned across the Red River for over 100 years. It has been – and will continue to be...

Brian Letwin

in Development

[Photos] District 2 Just Got a Fresh New Park

Green space has long come at a premium in Saigon, especially as some public areas – see District 1’s Chi Lang Park – have lost out to the city’s breakneck development.

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

[Video] Hẻm Gems: The Merits of Chè Dim Sum

If we're being real, I would not break an appointment for chè.

in Culture

[Photos] Exploring Saigon’s Sun-Deprived Hẻms

Saigon is full of interesting, undiscovered places. While many people have explored the alleys in their own neighborhoods, few are willing to brave the narrow, crumbling side roads that look a little ...

Lee Starnes

in Travel

[Photos] Saigoneer Getaways: Pastoral Scenes of Pindaya, Myanmar

Myanmar is no longer the secret of Southeast Asia. With tourist numbers increasing every year, its dusty country roads, seemingly endless parades of monks and crumbling colonial architecture are now o...

in Society

Saigon Children's Shelter Struggles to Stay Open

Everyday is a new challenge for the Green Bamboo Warm Shelter, a non-governmental organization which assists former street boys aged eight to 16.

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Arts & Culture

Drawing Saigon: How One Artist Is Preserving the Downtown Skyline

Tawny brown, a few inches thick and secured with a cord, the leather binder lands on the bar with a thud. Midday sun beams into the pop-up whisky library atop Centec Tower, a room that could pass for ...

in Development

[Photos] Vinhomes Central Park Rises From the Dust

While some of the city's construction projects are lagging – see, for instance, the skeletal riverside tower at the end of Ton Duc Thang – Vinhomes Central Park has breezed ahead, rising by the d...

in Music & Arts

Wowy Goes LIVE!: Saigon Rapper Aims to Raise 50k for New Show

There are a few things you should know about Wowy.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Heavenly Hủ Tiếu on Co Giang

Many count Co Giang Street among their favorite Saigon street food corridors. Featuring a long stretch of stalls, which serve everything from chè and bún riêu to magical bowls of Chinese-style hủ tiếu...

Brian Letwin

in Culture

[Photos] Preview: Nguyen Hue Flower Street

Saigon’s celebrated flower street returns to Nguyen Hue Boulevard next week to ring in the Year of the Monkey.

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: District 1's Cơm Trưa Food Court

If you've ever driven along Ton Duc Thang during rush hour, there's a strong chance you've almost run over a street food tout just north of the Le Thanh Ton-Nguyen Huu Canh intersection. While I have,...

in Development

Saigon's Hotel Majestic to Get High-Rise Addition

Since last June, Saigontourist Holding Company has resumed expansion of The Majestic, its five-star luxury hotel overlooking the riverfront.

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Cơm Tấm, Breakfast of Champions

There are three kinds of people in this world: early birds, night owls and the perpetually tired. Try as I might to adapt, I am the third.

in Eat & Drink

Hanoi's Communist Cafe Chain Comes to Saigon

Set foot inside the newly opened southern branch of Cong Caphe and you'll instantly feel like a giant. The endless array of tchotchke lining its concrete walls and wooden shelves – transistor radios, ...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Saigon's 100-Year-Old Vegetarian Quán

A mellow hideaway amidst the hastening traffic near Ben Thanh Market, Tin Nghia vegetarian restaurant is a time capsule.

in Literature

[Photos] Saigon Just Got a Fancy New Pedestrian Book Street

While Saigon faces a major deficit when it comes to public space, it looks like the city has recognized its value following the success of Nguyen Hue's pedestrian boulevard.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Dropping the Flavor Bomb With Vietnamese Comfort Food

Given that most of the spots that show up in our Hẻm Gems series are full-on meals, we decided it was time to explore the vast world of small, snack-like Vietnamese dishes. There are plenty of great ...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Bun Thit Nuong in a Street Foodie's Paradise

For those who don't know, Co Giang is a rugged street located in the middle of District 1's well-groomed downtown neighborhood. Despite its extremely central location, the short, narrow road manages t...

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Chị Hiền's Cơm Sườn and the Single Greatest Fish Sauce of All Time

As an accomplished eater and failed cook, I spend a lot of time scouting street food venues.

in Saigon

Street Cred: Phu Dong Roundabout

According to legend, the reign of the sixth Hung Vuong king was an era of fear for Van Lang, the country then occupying northern Vietnam. Dogged by its enemies, the kingdom was often under threat...

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Check out the New Street Food Mecca Behind Ben Thanh Market

Barely more than a week old, Ben Thanh's brand-new street food market is already turning heads with its souped-up version of the standard roadside dining experience.

in Development

Construction Begins on New Downtown Saigon Skyscraper

Earlier this month, developers broke ground on the Saigon Me Linh Tower, adding yet another skyscraper to District 1's riverside Me Linh roundabout.

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Universal Truth of Fish Sauce Fried Chicken

There are few indisputable facts upon which good, reasonable people the world over can agree. Here are three: the sky is blue, the earth is round and fried chicken, in any form, is delicious.

Brian Letwin

in Travel

[Photos] Saigoneer Getaways: Boracay and Tourism Done Right

With picture-perfect beaches, well-organized tourism activities and customer service a cut above its Southeast Asian neighbors, could the Philippines' Boracay be a glimpse into the future of Vietnam's...

in Vietnam

[Video] Inferno Tears Through District 1 Neighborhood

A number of buildings in the heart of District 1 were destroyed on Tuesday in a massive blaze.

Tim Doling

in Saigon

Icons of Old Saigon: The Artists’ Pagoda and Cemetery in Gò Vấp

The Artists' Pagoda (Chùa Nghệ Sĩ, also known as Nhựt Quang Tự or Phật Quang Tự) and Cemetery in Gò Vấp is the last resting place for practitioners of cải lương ("Reformed Opera"), a popular form of t...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Golden Bún Bò Huế

Walking into this temple of bún bò Huế, I was surprised the lady recognized me from my last visit from quite a while back. Even with my attempt at growing a beard for no-shave November, god has blesse...

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: District 1's Delightfully Decrepit Bia Hơi

UPDATE: It is with heavy hearts that we inform our readers that the Thi Sach bia hơi has permanently closed. We will miss its regular crowd and grimy, beer-stained walls. In a city that pretty much r...

in Music & Arts

[Photos] Réhahn Returns With Another Stunning Photo Book

When we meet at a cafe nestled down the alley of 3A Station, Réhahn brings a copy of his second book with him. Based on its weight alone, you can tell how much work the Hoi An-based French photographe...

in Development

[Photos/Video] Saigon's Second-Tallest Skyscraper Is Officially Open

A project several years in the making, Saigon's second-tallest skyscraper to date is now officially open.

Tim Doling

in Saigon

Icons of Old Saigon: The Lost Paris Foreign Missions Society Chapel

Hidden behind the Department of Foreign Affairs building at 4-6 Alexandre de Rhodes is the last surviving relic of that neighbourhood’s long association with the Roman Catholic Church – an abandoned c...

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Bánh Căn and the Elixir of Life

In the world of hẻm gems, gritty is a good thing. The more battered the tables, the more precarious the seating, the more dubious the location, the more we feel at one with the chaos of Saigon street ...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: We Found Xôi Gà in a Hopeless Place

Stand outside a market at closing time and you'll bear witness to the daily routines of its swift, unceremonious demise. After sunset, Binh Thanh District's Ba Chieu Market transforms before your eyes...

in Music & Arts

Event Rewind: Halloween Hẻm Jam

While people across the city embraced this weekend's Halloween festivities, 3A Station was especially lively as Saigoneer joined forces with GiantStep Gallery and iLL Beats Saigon to put on the first-...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Tan Dinh's Hue Food Heaven

The area around Hue O Xuan is pretty busy, making it easy to miss the address amid its neverending traffic. Though the local chain that takes up two storefronts opposite Tan Dinh Market at 18 Nguyen H...

in Development

[Photos] The Evolution of Bitexco in 25 Photos

Between Thu Thiem's ambitious new skyscraper, the planned transformation of Thanh Da Island and a LEED-standard apartment complex that looks like Marina Bay Sands, Saigon's skyline seems to chang...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: An Assembly Line of Bún Thịt Nướng

After warming up our tastebuds with last week's bột chiên, we continued exploring the wonders of Thi Nghe's evening street food scene. Amid the sinh tố shops, snack carts and rice stalls, my nomming c...

in Music & Arts

Islands, Archipelagos and Other Liquid Territories: Exploring the High Seas with Map Office

Acclaimed Hong Kong-based artists Laurent Gutierrez and Valerie Portefaix of Map Office bring to Dia Projects their first solo show in Saigon, titled Islands, Archipelagos and Other Liquid Territories...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Thi Nghe's Gold Mine of Snacks

We found a hẻm gem goldmine.

in Development

[Photos] Innovative Design Sets This Da Nang Garden Villa Apart

If you're the type to spring for a beachfront resort on holiday, you know that nobody wants to stay in the garden villa. It's almost a tease, being led so close to those sweeping ocean views only to h...

in Architecture

[Photos] Meet Tan Phu District's Breeze House

Saigon is full of surprises. Whether it's a theme park in District 9, a hidden temple in the heart of downtown or a high-end fashion shop in Binh Chanh, things in this city crop up exactly where you l...

in Music & Arts

Event Rewind: Beer Fest @ Saigon Outcast

Last Saturday, crowds of thirsty Saigoneers flocked to Saigon Outcast for its first-ever Beer Fest, which celebrated the city's growing number of craft beer producers.

in Music & Arts

New Edition Of Standpoint Theories Will Hit Saigon This Month

Multi-disciplinary production company Standpoint Theories returns to Saigon with three performances of Legends of Vietnam: Remix, an evolution of last year's Legends of Vietnam. The new and improved p...

Tim Doling

in Saigon

Date With The Wrecking Ball: The Customs Directorate Building

The Customs Directorate, one of the city’s best-loved colonial landmarks, is the latest in a series of government buildings to face the threat of redevelopment.

in Saigon

[Photos] Saigon Choked by Poisonous Smog

For the past three days, a blanket of smog has engulfed Saigon, resulting in not only poor visibility, but also potential health risks.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Best Bò Kho in the Business

This week, there was a rumor going around in our office about the best bò kho in the city. Because we take food very seriously at Saigoneer, I took it upon myself to determine the accuracy of this sta...

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Lunch Lady You Haven't Met

In Saigon, there is no such thing as a one-stop shop. It's part of the city's charm: coffee in one place, lunch in another, dessert three blocks down and two alleys away. You can turn a single outing ...

in Saigon

[Photos/Video] Saigon Floods Aren't Over Yet

After Tuesday evening's epic rainstorm (sort of) subsided, Saigon began its return to normal. Traffic jams dissipated, floodwaters receded and we all invested in a good raincoat or, at the very l...

in Music & Arts

Artist Spotlight: Saigon's DAOS501

Saigon-based graffiti artist DAOS501's visceral, introspective artwork explores the animalistic side of humanity in his first solo exhibition, now on display through September 30 at 3A Station's ...

in Music & Arts

Zelda Goes To The Gallery: A Material History Of Man And Animal

Cave paintings, the Latin poet Lucretius, the slavery of consumerism and, more prominently, the evolution between mankind and nature are some of the ingredients effortlessly intertwined in the rivetin...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Hủ Tiếu With A Side Of Attitude

You know those vendors who are so good at what they do that no matter how rotten they may be to their customers, people still turn up in droves? Fickle as the world of street food may be, at the ...

in Music & Arts

Meet the Man Who’s Rewriting the Rules of Traditional Vietnamese Calligraphy

More often than not, the best things in Saigon take place on the sidewalk. Whether moonlighting as a parking lot or a restaurant, a barbershop or a spa, the lề đường is a rich eco system of all things...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Bánh Bao Chiên @ Lý Chính Thắng Street Cart

Imagine it's around 4pm and a sprinkle of rain is just starting to fall outside. You sit in the office thinking about how wonderful it would be to have a small snack by your side.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Bún Thịt Nướng Bà Tám @ 299 Võ Văn Tần

Though this indoor hem gem loses a few points for the bland, sanitary, air-conditioned environment, it starts to make up for the snooze fest in design with excellent renditions of some of Saigon’s mos...

Tim Doling

in Saigon

Old Saigon Building Of The Week: 86 Võ Văn Tần

The ornate mansion on the corner of the Bà Huyện Thanh Quan and Võ Văn Tần junction was once the private residence of celebrated photographer Fernand Nadal, whose old sepia postcard images of the city...

in Vietnam

Population Explosion: Hanoi Adding 200,000 New Residents Each Year

It’s no secret that the populations of Vietnam’s urban centers are quickly growing, but in Hanoi, this phenomenon is occurring at a rapid pace as the city adds 200,000 new residents each yea...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Mì Vịt Tiềm @ Mì Gia Tân Tòng Lợi

You can tell Mì Gia Tân Tòng Lợi has been around for a while by the faded hủ tiếu cart greeting you at the entrance. The eatery specializes in Chinese-style egg noodle soups and fried duck dishes...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Chocolate Coconut Smoothies @ Le Thi Rieng Smoothies

On a hot night of street food hunting, it was time for a pit stop, one that would not only satisfy our thirst, but also our sweet tooth.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Legendary Coconut Milk @ Sữa Dừa 8 Tin

After a visit to Sữa Dừa 8 Tin, you’ll quickly find that not all coconut milk is created equal.

in Music & Arts

Central Vietnam Photography Workshop With Saigoneer’s Lee Starnes

This August, Saigoneer photographer Lee Starnes will be leading a central Vietnam photography workshop alongside Pics of Asia founder, Etienne Bossot.

in Saigon

Saigon Embarks On Slum Demolishing Spree

Saigon has come a long way when it comes to removing the slums that once lined nearly every intercity waterway, but tens of thousands of dwellings still remain. As the city pushes ahead with moderniza...

in Saigon

18,600 Trees to Be Cut for Tourist Road Through Can Gio

Saigon authorities have given the go-ahead for a US$8.7 million road through the UNESCO recognized Can Gio biosphere reserve that will necessitate the felling of 18,600 trees.

in Development

Girders Installed On Saigon’s First Metro Line

If you’ve zipped along the North-South Highway in recent days, you’ve probably noticed a girder-laying machine doing its thing just off of Thao Dien Street.

in Music & Arts

Saigoneer Chats With Suboi, Saigon’s Queen of Hip-Hop

Suboi recently returned from a series of successful US shows and wall-to-wall American media coverage. ­We sat down with Saigon’s “Queen of Hip-Hop” to ask about her experiences in the US, whether...

in Saigon

Saigon Begins to Move Its Power Lines Underground

Saigon has begun to move its notorious tangled nests of electricity wires underground.

Lee Starnes

in Travel

Saigoneer Getaways: Can Gio and the Mekong Delta

A chorus of horns, makeshift mobile loudspeakers announcing "bắp xào đây!" to four city blocks, the never-ending construction sounds of “progress”: these make up the everyday soundtrack of Saigon. It’...

in Culture

[Photos] Remnants Of Old Saigon

Often coming across as bustling and chaotic, Saigon’s entangled streets make for one hell of a first impression. Saigon’s charm, however, lies underneath the surface and only unveils itself when time ...

in Saigon

[Photos] Saigon Then & Now: Part 3

We’re back with another set of our “Then and Now” photos which contrast old images of Saigon with their present day counterparts. For a much larger collection, head over to the Saïgon-Chợ Lớn The...

in Society

Parkson's Luxury Shopping Centers In Saigon Deserted

Walk into one of the six Parkson shopping centers in Saigon, and it’s likely you’ll be one of a few people walking through a deserted shrine to commerce.

in Saigon

Everyone Seems To Be Unhappy With The Saigon Post Office’s Makeover

Over the past few months, one of Saigon’s most beloved old buildings has been undergoing a serious makeover, trading in its subdued, light pink paint for a bright, golden yellow coat.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: 70 Years of Hủ Tiếu Down a Saigon Alley

At the corner of a dead-end alley and the crowded pub street of Ton That Thiep among neon signs of nearby bars and restaurants, an eatery with an old hand-painted sign reading “Thanh Xuan” might come ...

Tim Doling

in Saigon

Date With The Wrecking Ball: The Nguyen Van Cua Imprimerie de l'Union Building

Located close to the Saigon Post Office, the unassuming two-storey white shophouse building at 49-57 Nguyễn Du was once the headquarters of one of the most successful colonial-era printing companies.

in Development

[Photos] 13 Old Saigon Villas to Be Demolished

According to Tuoi Tre, 13 villas in Districts 1 and 3 are scheduled to meet their demise in the near future. Though the city's Villa Classification Council is attempting to preserve many of these buil...

in Culture

The Fading Legacy Of Lê Công Kiều’s Camera Shop

Renowned among local photographers and cameras aficionados, the Phạm Thê Camera Repair Shop, which opened before 1975, has stood the test of time. But behind the façade of customer’s smiles sit the wo...

in Development

Future Saigon: Vietcombank Tower

The next big addition to Saigon’s skyline, the Vietcombank Tower, is nearly complete after years of construction.

in Saigon

[Photos] Saigon Then & Now: Part 1

We’re back with a new series of “Then and Now” photos of Saigon featuring the Continental Hotel, the city’s former opium refinery and a few other iconic places you may recognize.

in Saigon

[Photos] The Saigon Post Office Is Getting A Makeover

If you’ve passed by the Saigon Post Office in recent days, you’ve probably noticed work being done. The iconic building is getting a makeover, trading in its dull pink façade for a fresh coat of colon...

Brian Letwin

in Music & Arts

[Photos] HCMC: City of Contrasts

One of the things that makes life in Saigon interesting is the blurred line between the city and the countryside. This lack of distinction is most obvious when it comes to the city’s urban animals, bu...

in Saigon

[Photos] An Inside Look At 3 Of Saigon’s Most Intriguing Tombs

Saigon is home to plenty of old structures, some which house the living, and others the dead. Many of the former are tombs of important scholars who profoundly shaped the country’s culture, language a...

in Food Culture

Bodegas Arzuaga Navarro Winery Makes its Vietnam Debut

I recently had the pleasure of meeting Mr. Ignacio Arzuaga, from Bodegas Arzuaga Navarro, who came to Vietnam to share information about his winery and wines which are now available locally.

in Food Culture

Australian Wine Dinner With The Yalumba Winery

What happens when you put together amazing food, great wines, excellent customer service and a fantastic host? Well the answer is that you feel in heaven, and that was how most, if not all, of us felt...

in Music & Arts

Event Rewind: Saigon Artbook Party 2

Saigon Artbook released their second edition on January 16th at Zest Café where the books’ artists and locals came out to support Saigon’s growing art scene. Zest proved to be an incredible space for...

in Food Culture

Sava: An Epicurean’s Paradise in District 2

Sava the Gourmet is located in a beautiful villa located in the heart of district 2. Although the company used to focus on wholesale products, it has recently extended its retail arm, bringing gourmet...

in Saigon Events

'Right Fiction' - Opening Exhibition @ San Art

San art Laboratory has arrived at the end of its third session, and as always, the artists in resedency will mark this moment with a final group exhibition, ‘Right Fiction’.

in Travel

Spain, Land of Churches, Castles and Wine - Part 2

This is part 2 of Spain, Land of Churches, Castles and Wine. Click here for part 1. Of the many Rioja wineries that have opened their doors to wine lovers, we visited one of the best known in in the...

in Culture

Today is Vulan, the Day of Mother Worship and Welcoming Ghosts

If you're wondering why the Buddha flags are out and why all your Buddhist friends are eating vegetarian today, that's because it's one of Vietnam's coolest holidays - Vulan.

in Travel

Wine, Grapes and Relaxation

Although there are many reasons to visit Spain, including good weather, history and food, wine tourism has become one of the latest trends with foreigners and locals alike. You may enjoy drinking wine...

in Music & Arts

Creative Shakes - Where Art Comes to Life

Who defines art? Who can make art? Who is an artist? These questions have been explored, dealt with and talked about by artists and critics since the beginning of the 20th Century. The perception and ...

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